This is common when the ooo oil is dryed out and not properly lubricant of the parts I use 140w gear oil back in them and have had no problems I’ve even added Lucas hub oil to the 140W to thicken it up which is how I do them all now for 15 years 😊
That slop is likely you moved to spot that the moveable clutch rides . Did you check for play in pinion shaft. I have one that grinds only in reverse and and needle bearings of pinion were allowed shaft to move to point wouldn't engage reverse bevel gear.
What happened to mine was the shift fork was worn (but no where as bad as yours was) and bent causing the forward/reverse gear cluster to shift under load causing the shaft to wear through the bronze bushing and damaging the lower half housing. Replacement lower and upper housings are available but a little pricey, so what I did was to replace all the bronze bushings and filled the worn area of the housing with a little bit of JB Weld then setting the forward/reverse cluster in place while the JB Weld was still soft then temporarily assemble the housings till the JB Weld cured overnight. The next day I installed a new shifter fork, thrust washers and shaft bushings and filled the all the gears, the differential and all the bushings with "00" grease available at Tractor Supply.
Mine does this as well changed belts at first but everything seems to be in place but I bet I have the same problem as well can I get the number again I looked on eBay and didn’t see the exact one but I’m gunna tear mine apart
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This is common when the ooo oil is dryed out and not properly lubricant of the parts
I use 140w gear oil back in them and have had no problems
I’ve even added Lucas hub oil to the 140W to thicken it up which is how I do them all now for 15 years 😊
That slop is likely you moved to spot that the moveable clutch rides . Did you check for play in pinion shaft. I have one that grinds only in reverse and and needle bearings of pinion were allowed shaft to move to point wouldn't engage reverse bevel gear.
What happened to mine was the shift fork was worn (but no where as bad as yours was) and bent causing the forward/reverse gear cluster to shift under load causing the shaft to wear through the bronze bushing and damaging the lower half housing. Replacement lower and upper housings are available but a little pricey, so what I did was to replace all the bronze bushings and filled the worn area of the housing with a little bit of JB Weld then setting the forward/reverse cluster in place while the JB Weld was still soft then temporarily assemble the housings till the JB Weld cured overnight. The next day I installed a new shifter fork, thrust washers and shaft bushings and filled the all the gears, the differential and all the bushings with "00" grease available at Tractor Supply.
I’ve quit using the oo oil and went to 140w gear oil and 1/2 bottle of Lucas hub oil
It will never run dry again and not lubricant parts 😊
Not actually posi-track. It's just the differential design than one wheel goes opposite. Posi-track actually overides the differential effect.
Wow. Can't believe what would cause that wear on shift fork. Out of adjustment?
Mine does this as well changed belts at first but everything seems to be in place but I bet I have the same problem as well can I get the number again I looked on eBay and didn’t see the exact one but I’m gunna tear mine apart
How do you enable the gears so you can move the Troy built pony around?
As in push it around manually?
What year/model number?
How long is the shift fork? I've seen different ones, one like yours and one with a smooth shaft to shift lever.
I'm not sure unfortunately. This mower has been gone for a while
@BlakesGarage1 can you take guess on year
@@DanielJensen-lp1jp 2008
Ok,thanks I'll try to adjust the level first.
🙈 Promo>SM