Just recently I’ve started hearing a whistling/faint screech noise when driving since it’s summer now and I’ve had my window down. The screech gets louder when I proceed to hit the brakes at lower speeds, but you can’t hear it at higher speeds. Would this be the squealer you referenced in the video doing the noise even while I’m driving at not braking? I’m at 70k miles and second owner of my car. Not sure if brakes were previously done before I purchased at 43k miles.
How many miles did your original pads/rotors last? I bought new rotors with the f-sport pads not know there was a difference. I’m worried these high friction pads will eat up my new rotors.
I never had F sport pads but my 350 pads lasted 35k miles (fronts) and then changed them again at 61k miles. Also did the front rotors for the first time at 61k. Still have not changed the rear pads or rotors yet. The brakes on this car are very good so ~30k miles per pad change is not bad especially if you do the work yourself! I say just to have fun with the car.
My brakes feel horrible already on my 21 IS dynamic handling, both front and back rotors are already warped below spec at 25k but somehow my rear pads are much lower than my front like 3-4 mil, and fronts are 5-6. I’m procrastinating becuase I have multiple cars to drive but I don’t wanna keep the same Lexus crap on it….
I know the pads are Akebono(I don’t think they are the problem) the problem is the small rotors that don’t dissipate heat very well. Only thing I’ve read on forums is to do a GSf or RCf brake conversion which is not worth it.
@@ChrisLumNSX Just a daily for 10-15 miles of Orlando terrible city driving lol, I switch weekly back and fourth between my IS and RX which my RX was listed on Turo, now it’s unlisted because of stupid airbag recall so Ive been driving it a lot more. I plan on keeping my IS for a longggg time. We have a 15 GS fsport with only 38k, that’s my weekend baby it’s my prize possession. Amazing fsport brakes and double piston calipers, that car stops on a dime.
You will not reach thermal capacity street driving so I wouldn’t worry about needing larger brakes. Just get some good rotors and pads. There may be something wrong if your rear pads are consistently wearing faster than your fronts though as that is not normal.
@@ChrisLumNSX yes im gonna go oem again, maybe Bosch quite cast rotors, I work in svc bdc for Lexus of Orlando so I’ll have my tech check it out when I go to throw on a tire next week! Thank you I appreciate it
You don’t have to replace both at the same time but you need to keep in mind in the future that the front right will eventually need replacing sooner than the front left will.
Aftermarket rotors are perfectly fine but you need to get a good brand. I like name brands like Stoptech or Brembo. Japanese brand Dixcel is good too. I installed them on my NSX.
Yes definitely. Figure any dealership labor is roughly $150/hr and they would probably charge a minimum of 2 hours just for the front. That’s labor only.
Not necessary to bleed unless you introduce air into the line by opening up the bleeder screw or changing brake lines but it's not a bad idea to bleed the brakes at each brake service.
well filmed, short, factual... honestly great video and i dont say this often
Thank you!!! Sometimes I get carried away with talking too much but other times I’m straight to the point 😆
Good job man. Appreciate that you put the part numbers and tool infor right in the text description, not hidden behind some links.
Happy to help 👍
Just recently I’ve started hearing a whistling/faint screech noise when driving since it’s summer now and I’ve had my window down. The screech gets louder when I proceed to hit the brakes at lower speeds, but you can’t hear it at higher speeds. Would this be the squealer you referenced in the video doing the noise even while I’m driving at not braking? I’m at 70k miles and second owner of my car. Not sure if brakes were previously done before I purchased at 43k miles.
Yes it very well could be the low pad indicator. You should get your car checked out.
How many miles did your original pads/rotors last? I bought new rotors with the f-sport pads not know there was a difference. I’m worried these high friction pads will eat up my new rotors.
I never had F sport pads but my 350 pads lasted 35k miles (fronts) and then changed them again at 61k miles. Also did the front rotors for the first time at 61k. Still have not changed the rear pads or rotors yet. The brakes on this car are very good so ~30k miles per pad change is not bad especially if you do the work yourself! I say just to have fun with the car.
My brakes feel horrible already on my 21 IS dynamic handling, both front and back rotors are already warped below spec at 25k but somehow my rear pads are much lower than my front like 3-4 mil, and fronts are 5-6. I’m procrastinating becuase I have multiple cars to drive but I don’t wanna keep the same Lexus crap on it….
I know the pads are Akebono(I don’t think they are the problem) the problem is the small rotors that don’t dissipate heat very well. Only thing I’ve read on forums is to do a GSf or RCf brake conversion which is not worth it.
What are you doing with the car? Are you daily driving it, tracking it, or driving it hard at all?
@@ChrisLumNSX Just a daily for 10-15 miles of Orlando terrible city driving lol, I switch weekly back and fourth between my IS and RX which my RX was listed on Turo, now it’s unlisted because of stupid airbag recall so Ive been driving it a lot more. I plan on keeping my IS for a longggg time. We have a 15 GS fsport with only 38k, that’s my weekend baby it’s my prize possession. Amazing fsport brakes and double piston calipers, that car stops on a dime.
You will not reach thermal capacity street driving so I wouldn’t worry about needing larger brakes. Just get some good rotors and pads. There may be something wrong if your rear pads are consistently wearing faster than your fronts though as that is not normal.
@@ChrisLumNSX yes im gonna go oem again, maybe Bosch quite cast rotors, I work in svc bdc for Lexus of Orlando so I’ll have my tech check it out when I go to throw on a tire next week! Thank you I appreciate it
Nice video! Is the process the same for rear rotors and pads?
Sorry it's different for the rear pads. I don't have the car anymore otherwise I'd make a video.
The rear is easier to replace too.
If I’m replacing the front left rotor due to scratches on it , should I also replace the front right even tho it’s perfectly fine ?
You don’t have to replace both at the same time but you need to keep in mind in the future that the front right will eventually need replacing sooner than the front left will.
Is this the same parts for is 350 fsport? You ordered at Toyota dealer ?
I'm not sure, you will have to ask your local dealer or input your vin into a toyota parts website. I ordered my parts online according to my vin.
Link for the compression tool?
Link is in the video description 👍
Do you grease the back of the shim making contact with the pad?
You don’t have to but it’s recommended.
What’s your opinion on aftermarket rotors vs OEM rotors ?
Aftermarket rotors are perfectly fine but you need to get a good brand. I like name brands like Stoptech or Brembo. Japanese brand Dixcel is good too. I installed them on my NSX.
@@ChrisLumNSXwhat about duralast? This brand also has lifetime warranty
@@chiefawilkerson duralast may be ok but I haven’t tried them. I like centric or brembo for aftermarket rotors.
Does this save a lot of money doing it yourself ?
Yes definitely. Figure any dealership labor is roughly $150/hr and they would probably charge a minimum of 2 hours just for the front. That’s labor only.
Considering some mechanics charge $500 for both front and back...you'll save a ton DIY.
Do you need to bleed the line?
Not necessary to bleed unless you introduce air into the line by opening up the bleeder screw or changing brake lines but it's not a bad idea to bleed the brakes at each brake service.