I'd love to know what's made the biggest improvements to to our garments, without sewing! ✂️ Learn the secrets to making really great garments you can be proud of, join Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Before I watch the video , I'm going to make some guesses what the 4 things are: Cutting carefully & on grain, pressing, fabric choice, and pattern adjustment for your body. All of those make a huge difference in the final result and they aren't sewing. If a garment is cut wrong, good sewing won't save it.
I know this video is a year old, but I have to share. I learned the importance of fabric choice before I had ever considered sewing. My stepmom wanted to make my prom dress, we picked out a beautiful pattern and this gorgeous sparkly fabric. The night before prom, she realized as she was putting it together that we chose the wrong fabric. We needed something stretchy, and what we picked was much stiffer. The afternoon of, she's in hysterics and I'm randomly pulling a dress out of my closet cuz I have to wear something. She still gets emotional about it, but it really taught me the importance of that prep work before I knew I'd ever need it
Pre-washing fabric! I am 100% a natural fibres girl, and if you make a garment from cotton or linen straight off the bolt, you're going to get a very nasty surprise when you wash it. Every piece of fabric that comes into my house gets The Worst Day Of It's Life(TM). First I overlock the raw edges to prevent fraying in the wash, then it gets the harshest wash it will ever receive, and tumble dried, and ironed before being put away in the stash cupboard until needed. Then when I'm ready to sew, the fabric is ready to go.
Penny drops… i have been getting hassle from raw edges even though i was pre washing in a bag. No overlocker, but the zig zag stitch is going to come out ! TQ
@@ryanj.hanson6920 Yep. I want to get ALL the shrink out of it before I cut. Usually I wash in cold water and line dry my clothes, so a hot wash and tumble dry of new fabrics means that there's no surprises down the track.
If I am making professional work wear out of linen, silk or wool that fabric NEVER sees the inside of a washing machine. Linen and silk quickly takes on the look of a worn out dish rag and wool begins to felt. Water washing destroys these fibers. If all of your clothing is for casual use only, slouchy isn't necessarily a bad thing, but the garment's life span is greatly reduced when subjected to water.
I totally agree with you, Evelyn, pressing as you go, inside clean finished seams, hand finished hems, are essential practices to follow. I have to hand baste every seam before machine sewing.
I have been sewing for over 50 years, before home sergers. "Finishing" a seam was done with pinking shears! However I was taught early on the importance of pressing seams and assuring that they face the correct direction. I now have a serger for finishing, but my best friend is still my iron. I recently added a sleeve board,seam roll, tailor's ham and pressing mat and cloths. It has made a huge difference.
Hello Cynthia, I am thinking of getting pinking shears. I am a frugal sewist and sew entirely with second hand, thrifted or salvaged fabrics and notions. Keeping these items from landfill was my motivation to begin sewing in the first place but I often struggle to get the thread I need. I was thinking of breaking my rule and actually buying a new pair of pinking shears with the aim of using them to finish seams and thus reducing the amount of thread I use. It was suggested to me that it would be easier overall to cut out the fabric with pinking shears because I don't trim seam allowances as this leaves more scope for future alterations. I'm appealing to your experience - is this a valid plan?
@@jenniferrobertson3095 Not Cynthia - but I wouldn't cut my fabric with pinking shears. Not unless you are planning on buying a really expensive pair (maybe). Cutting with pinking shears is a completely different experience than cutting with fabric shears and I've yet to be able to achieve a precise cut with them. Being even slightly out with the pinking shear will throw off your seam allowance and affect the fit.
@@jenniferrobertson3095 It depends. If you pink the fabric and it does not fray when you rub the cut edge or even try to wash it, go ahead. For frequently washed pieces like summer pants, shirts and such it pays to invest the thread to prolong the life of the piece. If the material isn't transparent, who says that the seams have to be serged or zigzagged in exactly matching thread? Thrift yourself a haul of threads and use contrasting yarn proudly, it's all reclaimed! Regarding generous seam allowances for alterations, these might ruin your garment as they tend to pull, don't drape nicely and create bulk. Especially so on curved seams. Letting out seams hardly ever gives a satisfactory result, it mostly remains visible. It is better to work with contrasting inserts which looks more on purpose. So, I would say, do trim your seam allowances.
To be honest, my favourite way of finishing a seam is doing French seams. It takes a little bit longer but you don't need an overlocker and it just makes the garment such a joy to look at and wear because every seam is neatly pressed and the raw edges are completely hidden. French seams also give you more ease allowance (if you need to let the garment out later) and make for tougher seams which are less likely to fall apart on you.
Since I have discovered french seams I use them all the time now because they look so neat. Especially on silk & fine linen which is the fabric I mostly like to sew.
I had never thought of using french seams on a garment. I will try it one day soon. The thought sounds a little frightening but I can picture the end results.
Learning historic sewing techniques has helped me a lot. I love huge pockets in my dresses, but don't like the weight on the side seams. I have learned that suspending some of the weight of the pocket from the waist band with cotton tape is a great way to distribute the weight of the pocket contents.
I love historical techniques, as they always have such practicality that just make the use/wearing of the garment easy, not just a focus on easy construction 🙂
Yes, yes, yes and yes 👍 One thing I would add (especially towards beginners): read the damn instructions. In FULL. BEFORE you even cut into your (hopefully prewashed and ironed) fabric. Make sure, you have a mental roadmap in place and understand what you're supposed to do, in what order you're supposed to do it and how/why. Then look up and practice unfamiliar techniques on scrap fabric. It's time well invested, trust me. And study ready made garments, especially high end ones. Large department stores are great for this, if you don't own any. Make note of the fiber composition, look and feel of the fabrics used, how they have nicer buttons and finishing and similar details and then strive to emulate that.
My overlocker (given to me by mum) has been stuck at a relative's house for the past 6 months and I've gotten into garment sewing in this time! So I've had to learn other ways of finishing seams! I absolutely hate the look of zig-zag stitch seams, and don't yet own a pair of pinking shears, so on my latest project I tried french seams! They look lovely!
Also your tip in your last video on this topic about Understitching has absolutely CHANGED THE GAME for me! Thank's so much! (I know it's technically sewing but it's more of a where than a how in my opinion!
Raise your hand if you've been a fan of Evelyn's long enough to be able to recite the part about sewing your seam, finishing your seam, and pressing your seam right along with her. 🙋♀️👑💜
What made the biggest difference in my sewing was sitting down and reading the manual for my sewing machine. I had been taught the importance of pressing and fabric choice and the like in sewing classes but what made the biggest difference was knowing what my machine can and cannot do before I even sat down.
YES!!! I remember my first time using a pressing ham, it was wonderful and I don't know how I ever got away not using one now! I literally take mine travelling!
Making a mockup!! I always thought this was a waste of time and fabric, but it's been a game changer. I can spot fit issues early on and correct them for a perfect-for-me fitted garment.
Have you ever thought of making your mock-up out of fabric scraps? Your mock outfir doesn't need to be all in the same color, or colors that match. Make a patchwork mock-up and see how it fits. If you get something bavkwards while making your mock it's not going to use up your good material. Just an idea.
I'm new to making clothes started last ahi 2023 with quilts n bags moved to clothes Jan/Feb 24 and I always thought mock ups waste of fabric but if the mock up turns out well and my garment needs a lining I re purpose it as the lining
Evelyn, I thank you so much! I have made a dress ( first one in 46 years) I pressed it as I went . Your suggestion of course! Bought a professional iron, it made all the difference! When, I was finished, my Husband said " that looks very professional!" I plan on joining your sewing school in a few months. Thanks for all you do!
This is my third year sewing and looking back I am continually astounded at the many things I DIDN'T do in the beginning. Now I probably take longer to finish a garment but it looks a hundred times better.
me too omg even looking at most sewing/diy tutorials on youtube I’m cringing so bad now that I know much more than when I’ve started cause I’m like NOoOoO what r u doing 🤣
I LOVE new sew-ers. It's like bad, bad, lousy, bad, and suddenly, they will do one little thing different, and they level-up, so to speak, on their abilities. IT'S GREAT!
Agree about ironing and hand stitching 100%! Another thing that improved my sewing was the realisation that it didn’t matter how nice the items in my wardrobe, whether made by me or not, I only tended to wear stretch garments, they were the garments I reached for. So I decided to master stretch fabrics, I had some real disasters but now I can honestly say that I reach for my memades. So look at what you wear and concentrate on learning to sew those.
I’ve been sewing since I was 7. Sewing is a journey & I’m a long way from the destination of being as good as Evelyn but, if someone was to ask me, I’d recommend to a beginner to spend big on your first iron and go basic on a good quality sewing machine!!
I am returning to sewing after years of doing very little. i was NEVER great but I could put a nightgown together. I am finding watching sewing videos, yours, included is helping. My mother was an incredible needlewoman, but no teacher. I desperately needed a teacher.(yes, even at my age, there is always more to learn!) Finally, in retirement, I may actually do what I always wanted to do.
Mine was getting good measurements of basically any and every part of my body, and periodically measuring again to see if anything has changed significantly.
Yes, trying things on every step of the way is so important! I've seen too many people make crap clothes just because they sewed it all up before they ever tried it on.
From a 72 year old......my mum made all my and my sisters dresses, assisted by me from age 6 I recall. My wedding and bridesmaids dress and my ' going away ' outfit as we had in the 60s !!! I made all my children's clothes and they were spot on fashion. Mum always insisted on the pressing as you go, "never judge a garment till it's has it's final press" she always always used bias binding for ALL hems and after machine stitching the binding on , were hand hemmed. Xxx ( love your nails) !!!!!
The biggest thing I found that helped was to change thread types. This means thickness and fibre, because while a standard polyester thread might be good for one task it doesn't mean that it's good for everything. Swapping it for a fine silk or a waxed linen thread or whatever suits your fabric and goal can work wonders. I have spent the last couple of nights hand stitching some lace to my Edwardian combinations using a fine silk thread and it looks sooo much better than the polyester thread I used previously.
Hello Evelyn, new subscriber here. I joined about 2 weeks ago and am making my way through all your vlogs. I used to be an 'advanced sewer' but stopped sewing about 15 years ago. I took up making quilts, curtains and odd bits. I decided this year that I was going to get back into sewing again and redo my whole wardrobe and go with a vintage feel. I have tried not to buy new clothes for the last few years, just make do and mend what I have and what is in op shops. My new wardrobe will be a few quality pieces that last. When I started sewing I had my mother and grandmother who were both excellent sewers and who both learnt from my great grandmother who was a genius seamstress. So I had all of that knowledge to draw on. Otherwise it was books from the library to research. How much easier would it have been if I had youtube and your channel back then! You are reminding of what I used to know and have also started to teach 'an old dog a few new tips'. As an ex-Brisbane girl myself I really enjoy your vlogs. They are wonderful. When I first saw the first vlog I thought to myself 'this is Cherry Ames'. She was a character in young girls/womens books in the 1940's. She was a modern woman and was off solving crimes, helping people and nursing the sick. She had dark hair and always wore red lipstick. So if you do not know Cherry Ames - please take this as a compliment. She was my hero back then and you are my new sewing hero helping newbie and old sewers to learn the craft of sewing. All the best to you. P.S. So much cooler living in Tassie.
My latest improvement I learned from experienced quilters and I have applied to all my sewing: anchoring your loose ends. Rather than snipping them short, you pull the bobbin thread up through to the same side as your top thread, then tie them in a knot as close to the fabric as possible. Thread them into a hand sewing needle, and stitch back into the garment so the loose end is hidden between the layers of fabrics. Pull the loose ends through and tug just enough that the knot goes through into the fabric layers on the inside. Then you snip the loose ends, and they magically disappear!
Accurate cutting out of the pattern on the material. It was greatly emphasized by my sewing teacher in junior high. She would have us cut our fabric and then check it before we unpinned the paper pattern. Also important to transfer all the markings on a pattern. Love your channel. I sewed clothing for myself in school and for my 3 children when young. But for decades have only been sewing crafts. Just now starting to sew for myself again. I think I need a serger!!!! :)
Cutting out the pattern v slowly abd incredibly accurately to the line ! Getting point of bust exact and the measuring with a tape , the evenness of the bust darts , and any additional points from the toile ! Slowing down and being mindful of the joy of making a lovely dress very accurately ! And unpicking when it does not look exactly correct !
I started finishing my hems (sleeves, as well as skirts) and facing edges with bias tape and that looks so much neater than just finishing with a serger and stichting it down! I try to color coordinate the bias tape with the fabric, and it’s so much more durable and neater.
I need to get an iron and an ironing board and learn how to use them - for some reason I find this the most daunting part of learning to make my own clothes. Mainly because I'm afraid of burning holes in my fabric and ruining it.
You could try using a pressing cloth. It prevents many disasters. I use an old kitchen towel. It would be handy to ask for ironing temperature, when buying fabric. I often forget that. And then the first pressing is an exciting adventure. 🤣
Always start on the lowest temperature. If that isn't removing the creases, turn it up a little. Keep doing that until the iron is removing creases. Use steam when possible - on the lower temperatures, you won't get steam so keep it switched off unless you're happy to have puddles of water spitting everywhere. When ironing man made fibres, use a pressing cloth - then you can increase the temperature of the iron without melting your fabrics. When ironing wool or wool blends, *always* use a pressing cloth and either light steam or damp your pressing cloth. If you iron your wool without the pressing cloth, you will flatten the nap and cause your wool to develop a shine that's not meant to be there. Most ironing boards don't have anywhere near enough padding on them, these days, so consider buying a couple of metres of cotton wadding/padding and sticking that under your ironing board cover before doing anything else. A lot of ironing board covers are a poly cotton blend which will set up static when ironing certain things - so consider also purchasing a couple of metres of heavy(ish)weight 100% cotton and sewing a new cover for the board. It's not essential, but since I've done that, I don't find my pattern clings to the board, threatening to rip when I'm ironing it before I start tracing off my pattern. For a pressing cloth either buy a metre or so of silk organza or find yourself a very smooth, 100% cotton tea towel/glass cloth - what you don't want to be doing is ironing any texture from your cloth onto your fabric.
A spray bottle with water or liquid starch (very helpful for cutting out and working with curling and slinky fabrics) avoids the puddling and spitting problems.
The only thing I would add to these 4 tasks is hand basting. Hand basting is so superior to using pins at times and can actually save you time by preventing the need to re-do a seam. Also, if you're new to sewing, avoid watching videos claiming to be "better and quicker". Don't try to be "fast" before you are "good". Master a skill and then decide if a faster method would be worthwhile knowing.
My game changer was finding a sewing mentor. Some one else who sews but has more experience. Accessing their knowledge generally has helped me understand the ‘why’ part of sewing. I teach sewing, but still sign up for classes at a local high school. To hang out with others and discuss techniques.
Watching sewing content videos on RUclips is the one thing that has improved my sewing the most. I have improved my understanding of the fundamentals along with learning many high level skills. I can’t wait to try an online sewing class.
Another one I learned from you: take the time, dumb as it may seem, to make the mock-up. I finally did for my last project, and THANK GOODNESS, because the darts were too high, the hem needed lowering, and the arm scye (I feel so fancy when I use these words, LoL) was the wrong shape for me. I also used the mock-up to try a couple different finishes, and wound up choosing ones I don’t normally use, and I learned where my problem spots that needed extra attention would be. So, kinda sewing, but not really “getting better” at it.
Watching your video clips is what improved my sewing. I now take more care not to rush things. Currently I'm enjoying making lavender bags out of beautiful silk garments that I have picked up from the op shop for very little. Thank you for your enjoyable and entertaining sewing videos I appreciate every one of them. :)
I absolutely agree with you on pressing as you go. When I am watching remake videos of drives me crazy when they don't press as they go. I learned from a lady who a PBS sewing show called Nancy's Notions. I am terrible at hemming by hand but when necessary I do it.
Sewing with Nancy is still shown on PBS. Alas, Nancy passed away a few years ago from cancer. Her company is called Nancy’s Notions and can be found online.
I love your videos. Recently went to your sight on Amazon and purchased wall hanging thread holders after I watched your videos on organizing my sewing room. It looks nice and is very handy! Next I want to learn how to sew using plaid materials.
Hi Evelyn, after reading the reviews, it looks like press as you go wins hands down. I don't know where I've seen this before, but there was a picture floating around on the internet of what a finished garment looks like pressed vs. one not pressed. What a significant difference between the two garments. Can you make something like that for us to see and refer back to as a reminder? I, too, was taught to press as you go. It's a game changer. 😎
All of the above! It’s been 45 years since I have done any serious sewing and I have forgotten much of what I had learned. You’re reminders have been SO helpful in improving my garments. Thank you!
I hate ironing too. When I get behind in it and my basket of ironing isn’t getting any smaller and I want to keep on sewing, every time I need to press a garment piece under construction, I take an item or two from the basket and iron them.
I have been sewing with stretchy jersey a lot lately and found the curling edges very challenging even after steaming/pressing bigtime. After I finished my projects, I found somewhere (don't recall exactly where) that using spray starch on the edges would really help with this. Next time....
I have a ham holder which is fabulous. Holds ham at whatever angle I need so I’m not trying to hold the ham and the fabric on it, burning my fingers as I go
Using a corner stick (what we called it as I was learning), to make sure the corners are 100% "poked out." I use one from a quilter's store I picked up on sale.
I think the two most important things I've noticed that effect my final appearance is the seam finishes and the very subtle effect of"easing" pieces as they are sewn together, especially along a curve.( though that may be thought of as part of the sewing process) it really is challenging to manipulate the pieces so the drape and the fall of the fabric do what I want. I totally agree with all of the tips in this video; I really appreciate Evelyn's explanations and look forward to enrolling in her courses in the near future.
Quite frankly, it's been watching a LOT of vintage-oriented seamstresses on RUclips and really understanding the textile "mechanics" of drafting and sewing. It's been a long, long time since I've sewn anything from patterns, yet I do have a machine and a sewing box for garment repairs mainly. Once I move and can set up my sewing room, I'm going to see how everything I've learned works out.
I've always checked horizontal body measurements but only recently (after many years of sewing!!!) learned the importance of checking the vertical measurements on a pattern and adjusting them to my body. What a difference it has made. Great programme and have learned so much from you. Thank you.
I would say YES to everything. Especially pressing and seam finishings- I have no such trouble with fabric choice as I just feel by touching the fabric if it’ll work well for that specific project. Actually a good practice is to press the seams flat as they are and then pressing them open ~this way the stitches look more blended in. Have a nice day !! 😊😊
So many great tips here! Fitting pattern pieces to my own measurements was the first, most confusing and most rewarding thing I learned to do. I still have my mom’s book about correcting fit issues. That was in the 60s; now, I would find a good sloper or basic block pattern and learn to use that instead of wasting energy and money on commercial patterns. Love watching your videos, especially the redesigns!
Pressing! I just knew this would be at the top of your list. And the best way to improve your pressing is to make it easy to access from the sewing machine. If you have to get up and go to a different part of the room, or house, to press your seams, you wont press many seams. I'm set up so that I just swivel my chair around 180' from the sewing machine and there is the pressing station (aka Kmart laundry trolley).
Yes, that's fine if you actually have room to set yourself up like that. No matter how I try to set things up, living in a very small flat, I either have to go to the bedroom if I need the big board and standard iron, or I have to go to the other side of my sewing machine table to my 'cutting' (and everything else) table if I'm using the small iron and mini or sleeve board. And I just do not have room to store a swivel chair when it's not in use, so I don't have one of those.
I can't cut straight or sew straight however hard I try. I line everything, it makes things look neat and people always comment how well they are finished. I silently pray they will never look inside!! Lining is my thing.
I made a vintage apron to try to improve my sewing ,,I followed a number of tips I learned from your videos ,,under stitching ,finishing seams etc ,The one thing that I found made everything look better and made sewing easier was the pressing , I was so happy with what I learned from you videos I was proud to say,,,Yes I made this ,,
Enclosed seam finishes are definitely my favourite levelling up... also makes for a much stronger garment. I've tried French seams, hand-felled seams, bias bound seams, and Hong Kong seams. I would say my go-to most often is hand-felled; it does slow me down (I reckon about 1 metre/hour, and on a maxi-length skirt with 6 panels and a bias-faced hem, that's typically 10 hours). Slow sewing = lower fabric costs?! (particularly if sewing is a bit part of mental health management!).
I know that taking more time to cut my patterns carefully, and clip (replacement for pinning) my pieces together carefully always helps. Sometimes also clipping my threads in between sewing pieces so they don’t get caught up under another stitch helps too.
I’m 73 years old and even with glasses seeing what I’m doing on dark fabric can be difficult. Marking pattern lines with white carbon paper helps me keep my place in the process, especially if I have to set the sewing aside for a day or two. Also an adjustable magnifying light is helpful when threading a needle for hand hemming or picking seams out. (Sometimes I think I’ve picked out more threads than I’ve sewn.)
Actually your video about fabric choice and yarn was a game changer for my sewing! I always felt inadequate and then realized I could try as hard as I could, it wouldn't work with the wrong fabric. So thank you very much for that!
I'm a beginner sewer and I haven't actually made clothes...yet...just bags but marking my seam allowance has helped me to ensure my seams were even. Also I am a little lazy and don't wash my cotton fabrics beforehand so I steam iron them before interfacing that way if there's shrinkage it will get done before I make my precise cuts.
VKS- for easy or quick pre-washing you can put your fabric through the rinse cycle in your washing machine, or dampen it and run it through the spin cycle, or hand wash it and put it in the dryer or hand wash it and put it on the laundry line for pre-shrinking.
VKS- for easy or quick pre-washing you can put your fabric through the rinse cycle in your washing machine, or dampen it and run it through the spin cycle, or hand wash it and put it in the dryer or hand wash it and put it on the laundry line for pre-shrinking.
I've been doing a hand rolled hem (like on an Hermès scarf) on linen necklines and sleeves. It really makes the finished garment look expensive and très chic!
I find it most challenging to chose the right fabric for the project. At first, I've made many many wrong choices as a beginner. Now that I'm more familiar with fabrics, it became easier but still, at the middle of a project, when I realize the fabric will not perform well, I lose all my enthusiasm. Planning is a huge part of a good result and I can't thank you enough for yor intensive content about planning as well as actual sewing. Thank you Evelyn 🙏💕
Absolutely! I understand what you mean about losing enthusiasm part way through- I've been there too! Glad to hear there are more planning-eccentric sewists out there. :)
I made my first outfit when I was 12. My mother was embarrassed when I wore it. It was a strange fabric from the '60s. I have learned to go slower, care about how the insides look, and iron/press. this all evolved from slowing down.
Pretty much mirrors my experience: age 12,, only 70's fabric, as it was mid 70's, and learning to slow down and take time for the extra steps away from the sewing machine makes a huge positive difference.
Absolutely press as you go. And pressing your fabric BEFORE you cut it. Lay out your pattern on the fabric BEFORE you cut , don't just assume that you can automatically get the pieces out of the amount of fabric they suggest you use. Also, do a bound seam finish ( binding the raw edges of seams in bias tape) BEFORE you sew the seams. Like the inside seams of a jacket -- what a pain in the patoot to go in and line those after the ends are encased under a collar. Flat-line, bind, sew.
When I discovered how to draft my own pattern based on my own measurements.. Oh the joy of well fitting garments! A few weeks ago I redraft one missing piece of a 1960ies pattern, and enlarge the whole thing. Then, when I had sewn the dress I dyed it in ombré from dark to light blue. I love my summer dress, made for me, by me. It is so comfy, and perfect, and I have received so many nice comments about it. I feel pretty in it, and that is huge! Yay! Happiness! I finished the seams with a french seam, and as you say, it makes me happy to know that the inside is so pretty even if nobody sees it.
Something that has helped my finished projects is embellishments!!! I’m talking appliqués, stones, spikes etc lol I’ve been obsessed lately!!! And sometimes they hide the mistakes I’ll be the first to admit! 😂
I have learnt a lot about sewing clothes since I took up patchwork and quilting, accuracy and pressing are essential in this. I am now ready to start tackling garment sewing which I have to be a lot better at than in the past as my daughter is now a tailor with a very good reputation!! 2 books that will help me a lot is a McCalls sewing book from 1968 and a wonderfull book my daughter bought me for Christmas-- How to manipulate fabric by Colette Wolff, both amazing!!
Evelyn your message about how to improve your sewing is right on time as usual. I was assembling a trapeze like summer dress from one of the big 4 called easy for the beginner and when I sewed, took apart, and then rested the neckline by machine I was very disappointed with the results. I got out my seam ripper and resewed the neckline by hand which gave much better results. Sewing garments is more than what you do at the machine. There is so much thinking and problem solving in sewing outside of even using the machine. And, sewing pattern instructions are but tools for sewing, not meant to teach the skills of sewing.
I've been sewing for over 50 years. I can't remember when I started picking up needle & thread! I can't really remember when I started pressing seams as I go. It might have been watching my grandmother, but I can't picture it in my mind. She sewed beautiful garments, but if she was pressing, I just can't remember. I know when I started "learning" to sew (improving my sewing) in Jr. High and High School, pressing was the rule. I do remember pressing and pressing, and doing some seam finishing with zig-zag stitches and pinking shears. I am not a big fan of pinking shears myself because for me the edges aren't always neat and even. I don't mind zig-zag though it's time consuming. I can remember leaving some ugly zig-zagged seams in garments! I've learned to really like the 3-step zig-zag. I think it's neater. And, of course, I have my overlocker right beside me when I'm sewing. I sit in a little sewing "cockpit" with ironing board and iron to my left, sewing machine in front of me, and overlocker to the right. With a mobile desk chair I'm right in the centre of whatever I need to be doing. I think I've tried French seams, flat felled seams, and Hong Kong finishes, but I'm certainly not well versed in these. I have a drawer full of lovely pieces of lace that I plan to make use of, so my French seams will have to improve!! Thanks, Evelyn. You're always such a source of inspiration!!
Re: pressing, I’ve heard that fiber has a memory, it remembers its shape the last time it was cool. So I don’t press and whisk it back to the sewing machine. I pause and let it cool. So far I notice it helps most with linen. Is anyone else familiar with this?
Yes! I do this with wool and cotton garments when my seams are anything other than flat. It's also the premise behind using a clapper. Many hats are steamed into their shapes as well.
Yes, Oonabaloona (Marcy Harriell) likens it to baking cookies. She says you don't move them off the pan while they are still hot, because they will crumble. Likewise you have to wait for the fabric to cool down from ironing before you move it. 🍪
I learned basic sewing from a lovely woman who worked with my mom (almost 60 years ago) I was then taught Haute Couture be my best friend's mom. They both emphasized exactly what you are talking about in this video. You spend twice as much time at the ironing board as at the sewing machine! You learn your fabrics and what seam finishes to use and you finish every seam. If you take shortcuts your garment will tell on you. Thank you for wonderful videos. So important for those who don't have someone to teach them correctly. I love listening to you.
I’ve sewn before many years ago but recently decided to start sewing again. I’ve been binge watching RUclips videos to learn as much as I can before I even start the actual sewing again. I’ve also been buying things I know I’ll need so I’m not in the middle of a project when I realize I’m missing something….if that happens I have a tendency to stop and rarely go back to the project. So I’m just preparing anyway I can before I start.
I got one of these plastic roller things to press the seams without having to pull out the heavy iron. While iron does better, it still helps to keep the seams to a place you want. It’s also helpful when you can’t use heat if you’re working with synthetic materials like fake leather or used markings that disappear with heat. So I recommend researching for products like that if people have a reason to refrain from using irons in the process.
1. Choosing the correct colors, style, and fabric for your body type is very important. 2. Always press (not iron) your pattern and fabric before cutting. 3. Always follow the grain lines when laying out your pattern pieces, to get the look and drape you want. 4. Stay stitch the cut fabric before sewing the darts and seams (to prevent the fabric from stretching). 5. Always press (not iron) as you sew, for a professional look. 6. Hand finishes (hems and zippers) always out trumps machine stitching when done correctly. 7. Know as much as you can learn about what is going on with your body. I just learned that I have mineral density consistent with osteopenia. Now I finally know why I'm having so much trouble making my garments hang correctly. I will have to seek help from someone else to get my back measurements correct. I can't do it by myself anymore.
Osteopenia means my back has changed and will get worse. I'm developing a hump on my back and neck. I did not know this; because, the change has been very slow. Now that I know what is causing my ftting problems, I should be able to help myself with a little help from someone else. The hump isn't very noticeable; but, I have become stiff (and need help in measuring my back). I will have to alter my patterns to add fabric in the back (to go over the hump) so that my garments will drape correctly. Changing to two piece dresses(skirts with matching tops) will be a much better choice for me. Of course I don't like it. This can't be changed. I have to learn how to live with this. I finally found out what was going on with my body when I thought I was having a heart attak back on April 24, 2021. After a lot of x-rays, and other test, I learned last week that osteopenia is one of my health problems.
@@arvettadelashmit9337 I'm so sorry😞 But, on a positive note, you learned how to sew first, so now that you have this information, you will be able to make clothes that fit you more properly, instead of being upset every time you put on any-number-size-still-fits-no one clothes👍
Choosing the colour of thread made a huge difference. I used to use light/dark didn't matter too much because you don't see the stitching, right? WRONG I now spend as much time choosing thread as I do fabric
I've always struggled with sewing and dreaded what I felt were my inevitable failures and errors, but I just recently found your channel and I love your advice videos. Especially since I prefer thrift refashioning rather than making clothes from scratch, which many other vintage channels focus on. Your demeanor is so positive and calm and reassuring and I like how achievable you make it all seem, and how you mention your own beginner mistakes to remind us have to start somewhere!
Pressing makes such a difference! I giggled a bit because it is so important that you mention it in many of your videos, I remember the video where you made one of your thrifted garments look one better just by pressing it correctly.
Definitely agree about pressing, finishing seams and hand-finishing hems. Also taking the trouble to take a needle to tuck in loose threads for example. It turns a garment from just something to wear into a thing of beauty that’s a pleasure to wear
Hi and thanks for this video! I love your channel, you really make me smile with your great energy. I'm definitely a pressing convert myself, too. I gave it a try while sewing some pyjama bottoms for my husband... the difference pressing made was unbelievable, and I hardly knew how to use my machine back then! Lots of hugs from the Basque Country ☺️☺️☺️
Re: hand sewn finishes, I have a really good strong thimble. Forget about ‘if the shoe fits’. If the thimble fits, it makes hand sewing fun and good.💃☺️
I think one of the most important things is to make sure you take accurate measurements so that you can properly adjust your pattern before cutting out. Don’t just assume what size you are. Measure yourself and the pattern pieces. By the way, I love your videos. Thank you. ✂️🧵
I’ve learned so much from you and other “costubers”. Does watching RUclips instructional sewing videos count? Don’t know if this counts as “not at the sewing machine”, but I think that machine basting is a huge help. I’m not brilliant at pinning and it isn’t practical for a serged seam anyway. I’m not always patient enough to hand baste. I found that using a walking foot and a basting stitch gives a great idea of how the seam is going to look before you go hog wild at the serger and trim off all your seam allowance. If it doesn’t look right you can easily make adjustments and quickly re-baste.
I have been sewing for less than a year, and I found you Evelyn right away. I've done a couple of flat caps, a 40s style foreman's jacket, apron, pocket squares, and many, many mockups. I think I'm following all your tips. The greatest one was the mockup. The jacket I made would have been a disaster (I learned the importance of ease)
I'd love to know what's made the biggest improvements to to our garments, without sewing!
✂️ Learn the secrets to making really great garments you can be proud of, join Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Before I watch the video , I'm going to make some guesses what the 4 things are: Cutting carefully & on grain, pressing, fabric choice, and pattern adjustment for your body. All of those make a huge difference in the final result and they aren't sewing. If a garment is cut wrong, good sewing won't save it.
🙋💃♾️💯💚
Understanding the difference between wearing ease, design ease and outright lies, and knowing that most commercial patterns will contain all three.
One thing I’m especially grateful was your reminder in a video to just slow down and enjoy the process.
Sewing is fun as well as a skill.
I know this video is a year old, but I have to share. I learned the importance of fabric choice before I had ever considered sewing. My stepmom wanted to make my prom dress, we picked out a beautiful pattern and this gorgeous sparkly fabric. The night before prom, she realized as she was putting it together that we chose the wrong fabric. We needed something stretchy, and what we picked was much stiffer. The afternoon of, she's in hysterics and I'm randomly pulling a dress out of my closet cuz I have to wear something. She still gets emotional about it, but it really taught me the importance of that prep work before I knew I'd ever need it
So true about what you say about pressing as you go. My mom always said, "Anyone can sew as long as they have an iron." HA!
Pre-washing fabric! I am 100% a natural fibres girl, and if you make a garment from cotton or linen straight off the bolt, you're going to get a very nasty surprise when you wash it.
Every piece of fabric that comes into my house gets The Worst Day Of It's Life(TM). First I overlock the raw edges to prevent fraying in the wash, then it gets the harshest wash it will ever receive, and tumble dried, and ironed before being put away in the stash cupboard until needed. Then when I'm ready to sew, the fabric is ready to go.
Penny drops… i have been getting hassle from raw edges even though i was pre washing in a bag. No overlocker, but the zig zag stitch is going to come out ! TQ
Do you put the linen in the dryer? I have been laying mine on the dryer to air dry.
@@ryanj.hanson6920 Yep. I want to get ALL the shrink out of it before I cut. Usually I wash in cold water and line dry my clothes, so a hot wash and tumble dry of new fabrics means that there's no surprises down the track.
@@KissMyFrog42 perfect, thank you.
If I am making professional work wear out of linen, silk or wool that fabric NEVER sees the inside of a washing machine. Linen and silk quickly takes on the look of a worn out dish rag and wool begins to felt. Water washing destroys these fibers. If all of your clothing is for casual use only, slouchy isn't necessarily a bad thing, but the garment's life span is greatly reduced when subjected to water.
Pressing and pinning! Very important things my grandmother taught me! And to TAKE YOUR TIME! Don’t be in a rush or a panic!
I totally agree with you, Evelyn, pressing as you go, inside clean finished seams, hand finished hems, are essential practices to follow. I have to hand baste every seam before machine sewing.
I have been sewing for over 50 years, before home sergers. "Finishing" a seam was done with pinking shears! However I was taught early on the importance of pressing seams and assuring that they face the correct direction. I now have a serger for finishing, but my best friend is still my iron. I recently added a sleeve board,seam roll, tailor's ham and pressing mat and cloths. It has made a huge difference.
I bet your sewing (I mean ironing 😅) experience is so nice now with all of these pressing aids!
Hello Cynthia, I am thinking of getting pinking shears. I am a frugal sewist and sew entirely with second hand, thrifted or salvaged fabrics and notions. Keeping these items from landfill was my motivation to begin sewing in the first place but I often struggle to get the thread I need. I was thinking of breaking my rule and actually buying a new pair of pinking shears with the aim of using them to finish seams and thus reducing the amount of thread I use. It was suggested to me that it would be easier overall to cut out the fabric with pinking shears because I don't trim seam allowances as this leaves more scope for future alterations. I'm appealing to your experience - is this a valid plan?
@@jenniferrobertson3095 Not Cynthia - but I wouldn't cut my fabric with pinking shears. Not unless you are planning on buying a really expensive pair (maybe). Cutting with pinking shears is a completely different experience than cutting with fabric shears and I've yet to be able to achieve a precise cut with them. Being even slightly out with the pinking shear will throw off your seam allowance and affect the fit.
@@jenniferrobertson3095 It depends. If you pink the fabric and it does not fray when you rub the cut edge or even try to wash it, go ahead. For frequently washed pieces like summer pants, shirts and such it pays to invest the thread to prolong the life of the piece. If the material isn't transparent, who says that the seams have to be serged or zigzagged in exactly matching thread? Thrift yourself a haul of threads and use contrasting yarn proudly, it's all reclaimed!
Regarding generous seam allowances for alterations, these might ruin your garment as they tend to pull, don't drape nicely and create bulk. Especially so on curved seams. Letting out seams hardly ever gives a satisfactory result, it mostly remains visible. It is better to work with contrasting inserts which looks more on purpose. So, I would say, do trim your seam allowances.
Cynthia, absolutely right on all accounts! 🤗
To be honest, my favourite way of finishing a seam is doing French seams. It takes a little bit longer but you don't need an overlocker and it just makes the garment such a joy to look at and wear because every seam is neatly pressed and the raw edges are completely hidden. French seams also give you more ease allowance (if you need to let the garment out later) and make for tougher seams which are less likely to fall apart on you.
Since I have discovered french seams I use them all the time now because they look so neat. Especially on silk & fine linen which is the fabric I mostly like to sew.
I had never thought of using french seams on a garment. I will try it one day soon. The thought sounds a little frightening but I can picture the end results.
Learning historic sewing techniques has helped me a lot. I love huge pockets in my dresses, but don't like the weight on the side seams. I have learned that suspending some of the weight of the pocket from the waist band with cotton tape is a great way to distribute the weight of the pocket contents.
I love historical techniques, as they always have such practicality that just make the use/wearing of the garment easy, not just a focus on easy construction 🙂
Yes, yes, yes and yes 👍
One thing I would add (especially towards beginners): read the damn instructions. In FULL. BEFORE you even cut into your (hopefully prewashed and ironed) fabric.
Make sure, you have a mental roadmap in place and understand what you're supposed to do, in what order you're supposed to do it and how/why.
Then look up and practice unfamiliar techniques on scrap fabric.
It's time well invested, trust me.
And study ready made garments, especially high end ones. Large department stores are great for this, if you don't own any. Make note of the fiber composition, look and feel of the fabrics used, how they have nicer buttons and finishing and similar details and then strive to emulate that.
My overlocker (given to me by mum) has been stuck at a relative's house for the past 6 months and I've gotten into garment sewing in this time! So I've had to learn other ways of finishing seams! I absolutely hate the look of zig-zag stitch seams, and don't yet own a pair of pinking shears, so on my latest project I tried french seams! They look lovely!
Also your tip in your last video on this topic about Understitching has absolutely CHANGED THE GAME for me! Thank's so much! (I know it's technically sewing but it's more of a where than a how in my opinion!
Raise your hand if you've been a fan of Evelyn's long enough to be able to recite the part about sewing your seam, finishing your seam, and pressing your seam right along with her. 🙋♀️👑💜
😅😅 Yay!!!
Yep. And I’ve said it out loud numerous times while sewing…
What made the biggest difference in my sewing was sitting down and reading the manual for my sewing machine. I had been taught the importance of pressing and fabric choice and the like in sewing classes but what made the biggest difference was knowing what my machine can and cannot do before I even sat down.
That's a truly great idea.
Pressing is a game changer! And using hams, seam sticks, clappers, pressing cloths make the finished garment a joy.
I made my own ham. I had my woodworker employer make a lovely clapper.
YES!!! I remember my first time using a pressing ham, it was wonderful and I don't know how I ever got away not using one now! I literally take mine travelling!
I’m using a Viva paper towel roll for pressing curves
Making a mockup!! I always thought this was a waste of time and fabric, but it's been a game changer. I can spot fit issues early on and correct them for a perfect-for-me fitted garment.
Have you ever thought of making your mock-up out of fabric scraps? Your mock outfir doesn't need to be all in the same color, or colors that match. Make a patchwork mock-up and see how it fits.
If you get something bavkwards while making your mock it's not going to use up your good material.
Just an idea.
I'm new to making clothes started last ahi 2023 with quilts n bags moved to clothes Jan/Feb 24 and I always thought mock ups waste of fabric but if the mock up turns out well and my garment needs a lining I re purpose it as the lining
Evelyn, I thank you so much! I have made a dress ( first one in 46 years) I pressed it as I went . Your suggestion of course! Bought a professional iron, it made all the difference! When, I was finished, my Husband said " that looks very professional!" I plan on joining your sewing school in a few months. Thanks for all you do!
This is my third year sewing and looking back I am continually astounded at the many things I DIDN'T do in the beginning.
Now I probably take longer to finish a garment but it looks a hundred times better.
me too omg even looking at most sewing/diy tutorials on youtube I’m cringing so bad now that I know much more than when I’ve started cause I’m like NOoOoO what r u doing 🤣
I'm glad to hear that you're looking back and admiring the progress you've made! 😀 We all skip these at the start!
I LOVE new sew-ers. It's like bad, bad, lousy, bad, and suddenly, they will do one little thing different, and they level-up, so to speak, on their abilities. IT'S GREAT!
Good lighting is a game changer!! Suddenly I could actually see the texture of the fabric and boy did that help with mending especially!
You're right this is very under talked about but is so important with sewing. Good lighting!
My husband bought and affixed a small surgical lamp for me for my birthday. Your hands throw no shadow under this type of lamp. 😍😍😍 Best gift ever!
@@ClaudiaArnold that is such a neat idea!
Yes, enough light! What a beautiful and useful idea.
Agree about ironing and hand stitching 100%! Another thing that improved my sewing was the realisation that it didn’t matter how nice the items in my wardrobe, whether made by me or not, I only tended to wear stretch garments, they were the garments I reached for. So I decided to master stretch fabrics, I had some real disasters but now I can honestly say that I reach for my memades. So look at what you wear and concentrate on learning to sew those.
Clipping the threads and keeping it neat as I go has made my handmade garments much more professional looking.
I’ve been sewing since I was 7. Sewing is a journey & I’m a long way from the destination of being as good as Evelyn but, if someone was to ask me, I’d recommend to a beginner to spend big on your first iron and go basic on a good quality sewing machine!!
I always hate finishing my seams in the moment, but without fail I always thank myself when the garment is complete.
I am returning to sewing after years of doing very little. i was NEVER great but I could put a nightgown together. I am finding watching sewing videos, yours, included is helping. My mother was an incredible needlewoman, but no teacher. I desperately needed a teacher.(yes, even at my age, there is always more to learn!) Finally, in retirement, I may actually do what I always wanted to do.
Mine was getting good measurements of basically any and every part of my body, and periodically measuring again to see if anything has changed significantly.
Oh that's a good one! Yes, I bet this makes a lot of difference! 😀
Yes! Such a good tip.
Yes, trying things on every step of the way is so important! I've seen too many people make crap clothes just because they sewed it all up before they ever tried it on.
Yes. Also be truthful about your size.
Accurate and appropriate marking of darts and pleats and match points.
From a 72 year old......my mum made all my and my sisters dresses, assisted by me from age 6 I recall. My wedding and bridesmaids dress and my ' going away ' outfit as we had in the 60s !!! I made all my children's clothes and they were spot on fashion. Mum always insisted on the pressing as you go, "never judge a garment till it's has it's final press" she always always used bias binding for ALL hems and after machine stitching the binding on , were hand hemmed. Xxx ( love your nails) !!!!!
The biggest thing I found that helped was to change thread types. This means thickness and fibre, because while a standard polyester thread might be good for one task it doesn't mean that it's good for everything. Swapping it for a fine silk or a waxed linen thread or whatever suits your fabric and goal can work wonders.
I have spent the last couple of nights hand stitching some lace to my Edwardian combinations using a fine silk thread and it looks sooo much better than the polyester thread I used previously.
Don’t underestimate the value of a good chair. My sewing gets very sloppy if my back is hurting.
You are so right about this. I crochet and it is totally painful, instead of enjoyable, if I'm not comfotable.
I didn't even have an iron until I started sewing 😃😃 I learned the difference real fast!
Hello Evelyn, new subscriber here. I joined about 2 weeks ago and am making my way through all your vlogs. I used to be an 'advanced sewer' but stopped sewing about 15 years ago. I took up making quilts, curtains and odd bits. I decided this year that I was going to get back into sewing again and redo my whole wardrobe and go with a vintage feel. I have tried not to buy new clothes for the last few years, just make do and mend what I have and what is in op shops. My new wardrobe will be a few quality pieces that last.
When I started sewing I had my mother and grandmother who were both excellent sewers and who both learnt from my great grandmother who was a genius seamstress. So I had all of that knowledge to draw on. Otherwise it was books from the library to research. How much easier would it have been if I had youtube and your channel back then! You are reminding of what I used to know and have also started to teach 'an old dog a few new tips'. As an ex-Brisbane girl myself I really enjoy your vlogs. They are wonderful. When I first saw the first vlog I thought to myself 'this is Cherry Ames'. She was a character in young girls/womens books in the 1940's. She was a modern woman and was off solving crimes, helping people and nursing the sick. She had dark hair and always wore red lipstick. So if you do not know Cherry Ames - please take this as a compliment. She was my hero back then and you are my new sewing hero helping newbie and old sewers to learn the craft of sewing. All the best to you. P.S. So much cooler living in Tassie.
My latest improvement I learned from experienced quilters and I have applied to all my sewing: anchoring your loose ends. Rather than snipping them short, you pull the bobbin thread up through to the same side as your top thread, then tie them in a knot as close to the fabric as possible. Thread them into a hand sewing needle, and stitch back into the garment so the loose end is hidden between the layers of fabrics. Pull the loose ends through and tug just enough that the knot goes through into the fabric layers on the inside. Then you snip the loose ends, and they magically disappear!
Wow! That seems like a waste of time, but I'll bet it isn't. Thanks for being part of the group.
Accurate cutting out of the pattern on the material. It was greatly emphasized by my sewing teacher in junior high. She would have us cut our fabric and then check it before we unpinned the paper pattern. Also important to transfer all the markings on a pattern. Love your channel. I sewed clothing for myself in school and for my 3 children when young. But for decades have only been sewing crafts. Just now starting to sew for myself again. I think I need a serger!!!! :)
Me too. Funny how we drop off something we enjoy and then come back to it later. Yes the cut is all important - lining up the grain lines.
Cutting out the pattern v slowly abd incredibly accurately to the line ! Getting point of bust exact and the measuring with a tape , the evenness of the bust darts , and any additional points from the toile !
Slowing down and being mindful of the joy of making a lovely dress very accurately ! And unpicking when it does not look exactly correct !
I started finishing my hems (sleeves, as well as skirts) and facing edges with bias tape and that looks so much neater than just finishing with a serger and stichting it down! I try to color coordinate the bias tape with the fabric, and it’s so much more durable and neater.
I need to get an iron and an ironing board and learn how to use them - for some reason I find this the most daunting part of learning to make my own clothes. Mainly because I'm afraid of burning holes in my fabric and ruining it.
Always test on a scrap of your fabric. Always.
You could try using a pressing cloth. It prevents many disasters. I use an old kitchen towel.
It would be handy to ask for ironing temperature, when buying fabric. I often forget that. And then the first pressing is an exciting adventure. 🤣
Always start on the lowest temperature. If that isn't removing the creases, turn it up a little. Keep doing that until the iron is removing creases. Use steam when possible - on the lower temperatures, you won't get steam so keep it switched off unless you're happy to have puddles of water spitting everywhere.
When ironing man made fibres, use a pressing cloth - then you can increase the temperature of the iron without melting your fabrics. When ironing wool or wool blends, *always* use a pressing cloth and either light steam or damp your pressing cloth. If you iron your wool without the pressing cloth, you will flatten the nap and cause your wool to develop a shine that's not meant to be there.
Most ironing boards don't have anywhere near enough padding on them, these days, so consider buying a couple of metres of cotton wadding/padding and sticking that under your ironing board cover before doing anything else.
A lot of ironing board covers are a poly cotton blend which will set up static when ironing certain things - so consider also purchasing a couple of metres of heavy(ish)weight 100% cotton and sewing a new cover for the board. It's not essential, but since I've done that, I don't find my pattern clings to the board, threatening to rip when I'm ironing it before I start tracing off my pattern.
For a pressing cloth either buy a metre or so of silk organza or find yourself a very smooth, 100% cotton tea towel/glass cloth - what you don't want to be doing is ironing any texture from your cloth onto your fabric.
A spray bottle with water or liquid starch (very helpful for cutting out and working with curling and slinky fabrics) avoids the puddling and spitting problems.
The only thing I would add to these 4 tasks is hand basting. Hand basting is so superior to using pins at times and can actually save you time by preventing the need to re-do a seam.
Also, if you're new to sewing, avoid watching videos claiming to be "better and quicker". Don't try to be "fast" before you are "good". Master a skill and then decide if a faster method would be worthwhile knowing.
My game changer was finding a sewing mentor.
Some one else who sews but has more experience.
Accessing their knowledge generally has helped me understand the ‘why’ part of sewing.
I teach sewing, but still sign up for classes at a local high school. To hang out with others and discuss techniques.
Yes I find understanding why I’m doing something is key!
Watching sewing content videos on RUclips is the one thing that has improved my sewing the most. I have improved my understanding of the fundamentals along with learning many high level skills. I can’t wait to try an online sewing class.
The colors you choose to wear, look so good on you.
Another one I learned from you: take the time, dumb as it may seem, to make the mock-up. I finally did for my last project, and THANK GOODNESS, because the darts were too high, the hem needed lowering, and the arm scye (I feel so fancy when I use these words, LoL) was the wrong shape for me. I also used the mock-up to try a couple different finishes, and wound up choosing ones I don’t normally use, and I learned where my problem spots that needed extra attention would be. So, kinda sewing, but not really “getting better” at it.
Watching your video clips is what improved my sewing. I now take more care not to rush things. Currently I'm enjoying making lavender bags out of beautiful silk garments that I have picked up from the op shop for very little.
Thank you for your enjoyable and entertaining sewing videos I appreciate every one of them. :)
I absolutely agree with you on pressing as you go. When I am watching remake videos of drives me crazy when they don't press as they go. I learned from a lady who a PBS sewing show called Nancy's Notions. I am terrible at hemming by hand but when necessary I do it.
Sewing with Nancy is still shown on PBS. Alas, Nancy passed away a few years ago from cancer. Her company is called Nancy’s Notions and can be found online.
I love your videos. Recently went to your sight on Amazon and purchased wall hanging thread holders after I watched your videos on organizing my sewing room. It looks nice and is very handy! Next I want to learn how to sew using plaid materials.
Hi Evelyn, after reading the reviews, it looks like press as you go wins hands down. I don't know where I've seen this before, but there was a picture floating around on the internet of what a finished garment looks like pressed vs. one not pressed. What a significant difference between the two garments. Can you make something like that for us to see and refer back to as a reminder? I, too, was taught to press as you go. It's a game changer. 😎
That world make a great lesson for anyone that want sold on pressing as you go! 😄
All of the above! It’s been 45 years since I have done any serious sewing and I have forgotten much of what I had learned. You’re reminders have been SO helpful in improving my garments. Thank you!
I hate ironing, however when I make my own clothes I ALWAYS, without fail, press as I go. It is an absolute must. 😊
I hate ironing too. When I get behind in it and my basket of ironing isn’t getting any smaller and I want to keep on sewing, every time I need to press a garment piece under construction, I take an item or two from the basket and iron them.
Yes to pressing. Absolutely number one way to elevate your garments.
I have been sewing with stretchy jersey a lot lately and found the curling edges very challenging even after steaming/pressing bigtime. After I finished my projects, I found somewhere (don't recall exactly where) that using spray starch on the edges would really help with this. Next time....
Pressing is very important. Having tools such as a
Tailors ham and sleeve roll is important.
I have a ham holder which is fabulous. Holds ham at whatever angle I need so I’m not trying to hold the ham and the fabric on it, burning my fingers as I go
@@india1422 I have to get a ham holder.
Using a corner stick (what we called it as I was learning), to make sure the corners are 100% "poked out." I use one from a quilter's store I picked up on sale.
I can’t imagine sewing without pressing as you go!
Getting a high quality iron. I don't like pressing , but a good iron make all the difference
I think the two most important things I've noticed that effect my final appearance is the seam finishes and the very subtle effect of"easing" pieces as they are sewn together, especially along a curve.( though that may be thought of as part of the sewing process) it really is challenging to manipulate the pieces so the drape and the fall of the fabric do what I want. I totally agree with all of the tips in this video; I really appreciate Evelyn's explanations and look forward to enrolling in her courses in the near future.
Quite frankly, it's been watching a LOT of vintage-oriented seamstresses on RUclips and really understanding the textile "mechanics" of drafting and sewing. It's been a long, long time since I've sewn anything from patterns, yet I do have a machine and a sewing box for garment repairs mainly. Once I move and can set up my sewing room, I'm going to see how everything I've learned works out.
Pressing -yes!! I learnt this as a teenager decades ago from Anne Ladbury on TV.
I've always checked horizontal body measurements but only recently (after many years of sewing!!!) learned the importance of checking the vertical measurements on a pattern and adjusting them to my body. What a difference it has made. Great programme and have learned so much from you. Thank you.
I would say YES to everything.
Especially pressing and seam finishings- I have no such trouble with fabric choice as I just feel by touching the fabric if it’ll work well for that specific project.
Actually a good practice is to press the seams flat as they are and then pressing them open
~this way the stitches look more blended in.
Have a nice day !! 😊😊
Exactly how you should press a seam!!! Even when I quilt I press my seams like that.
So many great tips here! Fitting pattern pieces to my own measurements was the first, most confusing and most rewarding thing I learned to do. I still have my mom’s book about correcting fit issues. That was in the 60s; now, I would find a good sloper or basic block pattern and learn to use that instead of wasting energy and money on commercial patterns. Love watching your videos, especially the redesigns!
Pressing! I just knew this would be at the top of your list. And the best way to improve your pressing is to make it easy to access from the sewing machine. If you have to get up and go to a different part of the room, or house, to press your seams, you wont press many seams. I'm set up so that I just swivel my chair around 180' from the sewing machine and there is the pressing station (aka Kmart laundry trolley).
Yes, that's fine if you actually have room to set yourself up like that. No matter how I try to set things up, living in a very small flat, I either have to go to the bedroom if I need the big board and standard iron, or I have to go to the other side of my sewing machine table to my 'cutting' (and everything else) table if I'm using the small iron and mini or sleeve board.
And I just do not have room to store a swivel chair when it's not in use, so I don't have one of those.
I can't cut straight or sew straight however hard I try. I line everything, it makes things look neat and people always comment how well they are finished. I silently pray they will never look inside!! Lining is my thing.
I made a vintage apron to try to improve my sewing ,,I followed a number of tips I learned from your videos ,,under stitching ,finishing seams etc ,The one thing that I found made everything look better and made sewing easier was the pressing ,
I was so happy with what I learned from you videos I was proud to say,,,Yes I made this ,,
Enclosed seam finishes are definitely my favourite levelling up... also makes for a much stronger garment. I've tried French seams, hand-felled seams, bias bound seams, and Hong Kong seams. I would say my go-to most often is hand-felled; it does slow me down (I reckon about 1 metre/hour, and on a maxi-length skirt with 6 panels and a bias-faced hem, that's typically 10 hours).
Slow sewing = lower fabric costs?! (particularly if sewing is a bit part of mental health management!).
Pressing has been the big thing for me. Also just altering patterns to fit and not confusing pattern size with otr size.
I know that taking more time to cut my patterns carefully, and clip (replacement for pinning) my pieces together carefully always helps. Sometimes also clipping my threads in between sewing pieces so they don’t get caught up under another stitch helps too.
I’m 73 years old and even with glasses seeing what I’m doing on dark fabric can be difficult. Marking pattern lines with white carbon paper helps me keep my place in the process, especially if I have to set the sewing aside for a day or two. Also an adjustable magnifying light is helpful when threading a needle for hand hemming or picking seams out. (Sometimes I think I’ve picked out more threads than I’ve sewn.)
Actually your video about fabric choice and yarn was a game changer for my sewing! I always felt inadequate and then realized I could try as hard as I could, it wouldn't work with the wrong fabric. So thank you very much for that!
My game changer was to press a seam open before you press it together like a collar. Love your tips
I recently bought a ham and it's transformed the finish of the garments I make, particularly my bras.
I'm a beginner sewer and I haven't actually made clothes...yet...just bags but marking my seam allowance has helped me to ensure my seams were even. Also I am a little lazy and don't wash my cotton fabrics beforehand so I steam iron them before interfacing that way if there's shrinkage it will get done before I make my precise cuts.
VKS- for easy or quick pre-washing you can put your fabric through the rinse cycle in your washing machine, or dampen it and run it through the spin cycle, or hand wash it and put it in the dryer or hand wash it and put it on the laundry line for pre-shrinking.
VKS- for easy or quick pre-washing you can put your fabric through the rinse cycle in your washing machine, or dampen it and run it through the spin cycle, or hand wash it and put it in the dryer or hand wash it and put it on the laundry line for pre-shrinking.
I've been doing a hand rolled hem (like on an Hermès scarf) on linen necklines and sleeves. It really makes the finished garment look expensive and très chic!
I find it most challenging to chose the right fabric for the project. At first, I've made many many wrong choices as a beginner. Now that I'm more familiar with fabrics, it became easier but still, at the middle of a project, when I realize the fabric will not perform well, I lose all my enthusiasm. Planning is a huge part of a good result and I can't thank you enough for yor intensive content about planning as well as actual sewing. Thank you Evelyn 🙏💕
Absolutely! I understand what you mean about losing enthusiasm part way through- I've been there too! Glad to hear there are more planning-eccentric sewists out there. :)
Pressing makes your garment looks so professional.
I made my first outfit when I was 12. My mother was embarrassed when I wore it. It was a strange fabric from the '60s. I have learned to go slower, care about how the insides look, and iron/press. this all evolved from slowing down.
Pretty much mirrors my experience: age 12,, only 70's fabric, as it was mid 70's, and learning to slow down and take time for the extra steps away from the sewing machine makes a huge positive difference.
Agreed. Slowing down VASTLY improved the look of my early work.
It'd be great to have a video on invisible finishes!
Great tips, thanks very much!
Absolutely press as you go. And pressing your fabric BEFORE you cut it. Lay out your pattern on the fabric BEFORE you cut , don't just assume that you can automatically get the pieces out of the amount of fabric they suggest you use. Also, do a bound seam finish ( binding the raw edges of seams in bias tape) BEFORE you sew the seams. Like the inside seams of a jacket -- what a pain in the patoot to go in and line those after the ends are encased under a collar. Flat-line, bind, sew.
When I discovered how to draft my own pattern based on my own measurements.. Oh the joy of well fitting garments!
A few weeks ago I redraft one missing piece of a 1960ies pattern, and enlarge the whole thing.
Then, when I had sewn the dress I dyed it in ombré from dark to light blue.
I love my summer dress, made for me, by me. It is so comfy, and perfect, and I have received so many nice comments about it.
I feel pretty in it, and that is huge!
Yay! Happiness!
I finished the seams with a french seam, and as you say, it makes me happy to know that the inside is so pretty even if nobody sees it.
A pressing ham was a game changer for me.
Something that has helped my finished projects is embellishments!!! I’m talking appliqués, stones, spikes etc lol I’ve been obsessed lately!!! And sometimes they hide the mistakes I’ll be the first to admit! 😂
Your seam finishing videos are great and made my most recent me made dress much more beautiful!
I have learnt a lot about sewing clothes since I took up patchwork and quilting, accuracy and pressing are essential in this. I am now ready to start tackling garment sewing which I have to be a lot better at than in the past as my daughter is now a tailor with a very good reputation!! 2 books that will help me a lot is a McCalls sewing book from 1968 and a wonderfull book my daughter bought me for Christmas-- How to manipulate fabric by Colette Wolff, both amazing!!
Evelyn your message about how to improve your sewing is right on time as usual. I was assembling a trapeze like summer dress from one of the big 4 called easy for the beginner and when I sewed, took apart, and then rested the neckline by machine I was very disappointed with the results. I got out my seam ripper and resewed the neckline by hand which gave much better results. Sewing garments is more than what you do at the machine. There is so much thinking and problem solving in sewing outside of even using the machine. And, sewing pattern instructions are but tools for sewing, not meant to teach the skills of sewing.
I've been sewing for over 50 years. I can't remember when I started picking up needle & thread! I can't really remember when I started pressing seams as I go. It might have been watching my grandmother, but I can't picture it in my mind. She sewed beautiful garments, but if she was pressing, I just can't remember. I know when I started "learning" to sew (improving my sewing) in Jr. High and High School, pressing was the rule. I do remember pressing and pressing, and doing some seam finishing with zig-zag stitches and pinking shears. I am not a big fan of pinking shears myself because for me the edges aren't always neat and even. I don't mind zig-zag though it's time consuming. I can remember leaving some ugly zig-zagged seams in garments! I've learned to really like the 3-step zig-zag. I think it's neater. And, of course, I have my overlocker right beside me when I'm sewing. I sit in a little sewing "cockpit" with ironing board and iron to my left, sewing machine in front of me, and overlocker to the right. With a mobile desk chair I'm right in the centre of whatever I need to be doing. I think I've tried French seams, flat felled seams, and Hong Kong finishes, but I'm certainly not well versed in these. I have a drawer full of lovely pieces of lace that I plan to make use of, so my French seams will have to improve!! Thanks, Evelyn. You're always such a source of inspiration!!
Yes, pattern fabric suggestions &: PRESSING after seams is a MUST. What a difference it makes!
Pressing is so important but it seems I have learned so much from listening to you and I have been sewing for a lot of years.
Re: pressing, I’ve heard that fiber has a memory, it remembers its shape the last time it was cool. So I don’t press and whisk it back to the sewing machine. I pause and let it cool. So far I notice it helps most with linen. Is anyone else familiar with this?
Yes ive learned this too! It gets malleable when hot so it needs to set (by cooling) in the right shape
No, but since I love linen i will try
Yes! I do this with wool and cotton garments when my seams are anything other than flat. It's also the premise behind using a clapper. Many hats are steamed into their shapes as well.
Yes, Oonabaloona (Marcy Harriell) likens it to baking cookies. She says you don't move them off the pan while they are still hot, because they will crumble. Likewise you have to wait for the fabric to cool down from ironing before you move it. 🍪
Same with hot curling/shaping your hair. It needs to set in shape cool before you continue working on the style.
I learned basic sewing from a lovely woman who worked with my mom (almost 60 years ago) I was then taught Haute Couture be my best friend's mom. They both emphasized exactly what you are talking about in this video. You spend twice as much time at the ironing board as at the sewing machine! You learn your fabrics and what seam finishes to use and you finish every seam. If you take shortcuts your garment will tell on you. Thank you for wonderful videos. So important for those who don't have someone to teach them correctly. I love listening to you.
I’ve sewn before many years ago but recently decided to start sewing again. I’ve been binge watching RUclips videos to learn as much as I can before I even start the actual sewing again. I’ve also been buying things I know I’ll need so I’m not in the middle of a project when I realize I’m missing something….if that happens I have a tendency to stop and rarely go back to the project. So I’m just preparing anyway I can before I start.
I got one of these plastic roller things to press the seams without having to pull out the heavy iron. While iron does better, it still helps to keep the seams to a place you want. It’s also helpful when you can’t use heat if you’re working with synthetic materials like fake leather or used markings that disappear with heat.
So I recommend researching for products like that if people have a reason to refrain from using irons in the process.
1. Choosing the correct colors, style, and fabric for your body type is very important.
2. Always press (not iron) your pattern and fabric before cutting.
3. Always follow the grain lines when laying out your pattern pieces, to get the look and drape you want.
4. Stay stitch the cut fabric before sewing the darts and seams (to prevent the fabric from stretching).
5. Always press (not iron) as you sew, for a professional look.
6. Hand finishes (hems and zippers) always out trumps machine stitching when done correctly.
7. Know as much as you can learn about what is going on with your body. I just learned that I have mineral density consistent with osteopenia. Now I finally know why I'm having so much trouble making my garments hang correctly. I will have to seek help from someone else to get my back measurements correct. I can't do it by myself anymore.
Excellent list!
Regarding your point 7, often it is more a matter of *admitting* how your body is made vs. how you want it to be... 😭
Osteopenia means my back has changed and will get worse. I'm developing a hump on my back and neck. I did not know this; because, the change has been very slow. Now that I know what is causing my ftting problems, I should be able to help myself with a little help from someone else.
The hump isn't very noticeable; but, I have become stiff (and need help in measuring my back). I will have to alter my patterns to add fabric in the back (to go over the hump) so that my garments will drape correctly. Changing to two piece dresses(skirts with matching tops) will be a much better choice for me.
Of course I don't like it. This can't be changed. I have to learn how to live with this. I finally found out what was going on with my body when I thought I was having a heart attak back on April 24, 2021. After a lot of x-rays, and other test, I learned last week that osteopenia is one of my health problems.
@@arvettadelashmit9337 I'm so sorry😞 But, on a positive note, you learned how to sew first, so now that you have this information, you will be able to make clothes that fit you more properly, instead of being upset every time you put on any-number-size-still-fits-no one clothes👍
Can I ask a really dumb question? What is the difference between pressing and ironing? I wonder if I'm doing it wrong...
Choosing the colour of thread made a huge difference. I used to use light/dark didn't matter too much because you don't see the stitching, right? WRONG I now spend as much time choosing thread as I do fabric
I've always struggled with sewing and dreaded what I felt were my inevitable failures and errors, but I just recently found your channel and I love your advice videos. Especially since I prefer thrift refashioning rather than making clothes from scratch, which many other vintage channels focus on. Your demeanor is so positive and calm and reassuring and I like how achievable you make it all seem, and how you mention your own beginner mistakes to remind us have to start somewhere!
Pressing makes such a difference! I giggled a bit because it is so important that you mention it in many of your videos, I remember the video where you made one of your thrifted garments look one better just by pressing it correctly.
Definitely agree about pressing, finishing seams and hand-finishing hems. Also taking the trouble to take a needle to tuck in loose threads for example. It turns a garment from just something to wear into a thing of beauty that’s a pleasure to wear
Hi and thanks for this video! I love your channel, you really make me smile with your great energy. I'm definitely a pressing convert myself, too. I gave it a try while sewing some pyjama bottoms for my husband... the difference pressing made was unbelievable, and I hardly knew how to use my machine back then!
Lots of hugs from the Basque Country ☺️☺️☺️
Re: hand sewn finishes, I have a really good strong thimble. Forget about ‘if the shoe fits’. If the thimble fits, it makes hand sewing fun and good.💃☺️
I think one of the most important things is to make sure you take accurate measurements so that you can properly adjust your pattern before cutting out. Don’t just assume what size you are. Measure yourself and the pattern pieces. By the way, I love your videos. Thank you. ✂️🧵
I’ve learned so much from you and other “costubers”. Does watching RUclips instructional sewing videos count? Don’t know if this counts as “not at the sewing machine”, but I think that machine basting is a huge help. I’m not brilliant at pinning and it isn’t practical for a serged seam anyway. I’m not always patient enough to hand baste. I found that using a walking foot and a basting stitch gives a great idea of how the seam is going to look before you go hog wild at the serger and trim off all your seam allowance. If it doesn’t look right you can easily make adjustments and quickly re-baste.
Book stand!! Set up in my work area for the folders with the instructions for the task to be done. 🤓
I have been sewing for less than a year, and I found you Evelyn right away. I've done a couple of flat caps, a 40s style foreman's jacket, apron, pocket squares, and many, many mockups. I think I'm following all your tips. The greatest one was the mockup. The jacket I made would have been a disaster (I learned the importance of ease)