Good video. The point that hits most for me is sizing. I have a hard time determining which measurements make most sense to determine size on pre-printed patterns, and how to adjust the patterns to look flattering when a size is picked. I'm a very weird shape, and I think that's the most discouraging part of my sewing journey.
I'm sorry to hear that, I'd venture to say you're not weird shaped but rather unique. I would look into body types as a jumping off point to get the ball rolling on what styles you may find to be flattering on you. Keep your measurements on hand and determine which area of you frame do you like to highlight. You can use that to make informed decisions when determining what to sew. Example: my bust is 44", I like to highlight my bust and accentuate my waist so I don't want a pattern with a finished garment measurement of say 51" at the bust. Don't be discouraged, remember: the only difference between you and an expert seamstress is the time spent sewing. You'll get there!
Nancy Zieman's fitting techniques are something I find really helpful (but they go by the SHOULDER measurement, not the overbust measurement as the video said). Changed the game for me. Once you get the hang of it, you'll develop a standard set of adjustments that you can apply to pretty much any pattern. For non-Big4 patterns, I know I sew a size 16 in Big 4 at the shoulders, which is a 38 full bust, so I choose a 38 bust at the shoulders in whatever Indie or Burda patterns I sew too.
I have found success with multiple-cup sized patterns. Cashmerette makes good ones for curvy women AND they have a calculator online which calculates your size based on measurements high bust, full bust, waist, and hips. It gives advice such as "use the size 16 D/DD and grade to size 18 for waist and 20 for hips". It works. Some companies, such as Named Clothing, give the measurements of their pattern block as well as the finished measurements so that you can see how much ease has been added. Hope that helps.
@@thecuratedcurvy What a wonderful encouraging and helpful response to that comment! 👏 I think that most of us have a part of our bodies that don't quite fit the mass produced patterns. I think that in reference to your suggestion about finding what part of ones body is best to accentuate, it might help to find styles suit ones body in ready made garments by 'going shopping' and then seeing what suits one's body best, as well as what colours best suit one's hair and skin colouring e.g I know that certain yellows and oranges make me look washed out, but I've only learnt this by trying various shades of colours over the years. I've fallen in love with certain fabrics only to find that when made up, the colours look terrible on me. This is also another way to discover what best suits your body shape and this way you can also get an idea of what fabric patterns the designers use for your size and shapes, e.g. you'll rarely find horizontal stripes on a large sized dress, but horizontal stripes at the bust of someone with a smaller bust can help to accentuate it, so it's worth checking out what fabric patterns and fabric types that the professionals choose for their clothing as they have to consider and design for the majority of people buying garments of particular size ranges. btw. What do you mean by 'highlight' your bust and 'accentuate' your waist? I'm just wondering if there's a subtle difference between the two that I'm missing. 🤔
One piece of advice my mother and grandmother gave me is don’t sew when you’re tired, in a hurry, frustrated with a step in the process or distracted because you’re more likely to spend more time ripping out stitches than actually sewing. It took me one time only to learn that lesson the hard way. This is the same advice I passed on to my own daughter.
@@andreamaclachlan980 It's true! Also - when you want to finish a garment but something is wonky, don't go "nevermind". Put it away. Come back later. Rip out the stitches or fix what needs fixing. It's the "nevermind" you had in that moment that is gonna make your garments sad looking.
Me at fashion design college: hated sewing, was my worst subject, bursted into tears using it in a few occasions Me over a decade later, with no due dates and grades: at least 70% of my wardrobe was made by myself, love sewing lil things for friends and family, may or may not be a fabric compulsive buyer Your grandma and mom knew what they were talking about, mad respect for factory workers cause sewing+stress is a no no for me.
If you're dealing with an expensive fabric or one you don't want to waste, ALWAYS do a mockup before starting on the actual garment! Mockups are boring, but they will save you tears and a lot of extra work.
I struggle with mock ups because I can alter them to fit but then have no clue how to mirror those changes onto the real thing/adjust the real thing accordingly it's usually so frustrating I just go straight to the real thing and alter from there. Are there any good videos showing how to actually use mock ups well?
Even then you may not be wasting fabric with a mock up. In the 1700s it wasn't uncommon to use the fabric used in the fitting process to be reused as the lining! I think we should do that again.
@@k49821 If you sew the mock-up using the longest stitch setting, and just do the main seams using the main pattern pieces (don’t worry with plackets or cuffs or pockets or things like that yet) you can try on this mock-up and after adjusting it take it back apart and use it for your pattern.
@@k49821 You can cut up the mock up once you are done and use it as pattern pieces. Of course you have to mark the darts beforehand. This will give you a very durable pattern made of fabric. And extra tip - if you sre used to seam allowances remember you now have a pattern without seam allowances. You have to add them before cutting. Good luck with your next project🍀
I started sewing at 4 years old. My mom made all our clothes & I would sit at her feet and make (pretty crappy) clothes for my dolls. I will never forget the first time my mom let me “sew” on the machine. I sat on her lap & she guided my hands and pushed the petal. I made a pair of shorts with a casing and elastic. I was hooked. I glad of the knowledge I gleaned from my mother because she was killed in a car accident when I was 10 so I feel like I’m carrying on a legacy. I am proud to say that I have 60 years sewing experience, some professional. It’s so enlightening to see people finally wanting to learn sewing again. I thought it was dying out. SOOOOO, don’t forget to ask older, more experienced people for help and advice. I see a lot of sewing tutorials on RUclips that make me cringe, but at least people are doing it & figuring it out. My #1 advice….iron, iron, iron. You can sew without a machine, but not an iron. Now this little bit of advice is what I was taught & it makes me cringe when I see it happening all the time….don’t use the selvages to save time on a hem or finish. Look closely at any selvage, the weave is tighter, more condensed and doesn’t drape the same as the fabric. A lot of time it will shrink and make that seam pull tighter, throwing off the fit and drape of your garment. I was taught to cut them off for that very reason.
I thank you young lady. I am a senior who has been sewing from age 4. I try to encourage every little girl I meet to learn to sew. I started making doll clothes at age 4. I can now sew freehand and also with commercial patterns. I too use a smaller seam allowance when sewing commercial patterns for my perfect fit. I wish you great success in your sewing. I have saved thousands of dollars sewing for myself and my home decor.
it's such a useful skill! I've taught my daughter and look forward to one day (hopefully) teaching my son. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment 😊
"Be perfect to your own capabilities"... such a good way of thinking about things and managing expectations. I also really appreciated the advice on sizing. It can be madness figuring out the correct sizing.
1. Press your seams 2. Finish the inside of your garments 3. Master the straight and the curve stitch 4. Sewing the wrong size 5. You're your only resource - Get a book 6. Manage your expectations
I cried and the universe delivered! I needed this video so bad after completely mutilating yet another shirt collar. It’s just been me and RUclips since 2020 and I don’t know what I don’t know. But I expect myself to know and I shouldn’t so thank you for the much needed advice!
First of all can we commend you for taking on the dreaded collar?!?! 👏👏👏 I'm so happy to know you found the video useful, honestly that piece of advice was also among the most impactful for me too!
Hey you being here is great! Btw if she hasn't gone over it, sew from the middle out on shirt collars. It helps keep the tension. If you cut the interfacing to lay just inside the seamline, it will reduce bulk. To get a slight curve: take the piece that will be concealed when the collar is down (if the collar is popped, that's the exterior) and trim it to about 1/8th inch smaller at the end. As you sew, pull this piece towards the edge and when you press, press it on a tailors ham. If you do all of this, it should give you a beautiful collar. David page coffin(?) Has some excellent books on shirt making. We used one in college as a shirt tailoring textbook so it's a good resource and cheap.
As someone professionally trained, the very first thing we learnt was to stitch on an industrial sewing machine, which is at least 3 to 4 times as fast as a home machine. To do this we had to follow either a set of squares set inside each other with 1/4 inch inbetween, down to 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, we also did this with a set of concentric circles set the same way. If you do this using paper you will soon be able to go straight, and also only guide the fabric to the Needle, after the needle the sem is done, you cannot change it DO NOT pull the fabric through, guide it to the front.
I have been sewing clothes for myself all my life, and was never really happy with the result, until i realized i was actually using the wrong sizes. So now i try to adjust as best as i can and at least they fit me well now 😅 I love learning better techniques, real traditional and also practical tips, as long as it improves durability. That leaves me with the biggest problem.... I still have clothes in perfect shape from 35 years ago......🤣
Iam 67, been sewing most of my life. There is always something to learn .I have a old book from 1956 I got at a yard sale, love it and it is so interesting.
Serger was *THE*game changer for me. Which then motivated me to be better and more precise with everything else. Absolutely GENIUS tip on the books. I have that same Reader’s Digest book that I inherited from my mom! ❤❤”You are not them” ❤❤❤❤ best advice
My best advice is to draw from the past for sewing techniques. A hundred years ago, most clothing was homemade, so they knew exactly what was most important when it came to making a high-quality, long-lasting garment at home. Sewing is more of a novelty now, but it was a necessity back then. The book Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques has taught me SO much about the fundamentals of sewing. When using historical techniques, my clothes fit better, last longer, are more adaptable, and it is easier to figure out what I need to do with no guide. It definitely takes longer to do, but it's so worth it.
You are spot on with your assessment! Fit was always a thorn in my side - I, too, am a voluptuous woman. I eventually stopped trying, and moved into home dec and quilting. Sometimes I think I’d like to get back into garment sewing, but I’m retired, disabled and live in jeans, so that likely won’t happen. Nonetheless, it was a pleasure watching your video and a surprise when you talked about Nancy Zieman [pronounced zeeman]. I used to lived 45 minutes close to Nancy’s company. One day I read where Nancy’s Notions was having a huge sale, so I grabbed Mom and we went on a short roadtrip together. That day, I had the pleasure of meeting Nancy; she was just as sweet and lovely in person as she was on camera. She is greatly missed.
A good resource for beginners or working through issues, are sheets and curtains from opportunity shops/ Goodwill. You can finesse patterns, or practice on unfamiliar materials without spending a fortune on fabric. Great video!
Your first tip about pressing all seams is critical! I started sewing at about age ten at home. I’m pushing seventy now. I still remember my sewing teachers from Jr high and senior high lecturing about pressing. Every seam sewn=trip to the ironing board. I remembering being amazed what a difference it made compared to the things I had done at home. (I was on my own as my Mom didn’t sew at all!) And your #6 is absolutely true!!! No one is perfect! If you expect perfection you will never be happy. Wether in Sewing or anything else. You will improve with practice. Give yourself lots of Grace and keep your project close to your skill level. Challenge yes, overwhelm, not satisfying at all. Love your machine stitching worksheets! I remember doing lots of them in my first sewing class in 7th grade.
Bless you for shouting out on Bernadette Banner! I LOVE her and follow her, and aspire to her abilities. This was a great video, I also LOVED that you called out "press your seams" as #1. Sooo true! My sewing improved so much after I took a workshop from Kenneth King (the KING of costumes and pressing). I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Dear curvy sewist, I just discovered your channel and am most impressed by your knowledge and presentation. Allow me to suggest another point which bedevils beginning sewers, which is not understanding the qualities of various fabrics. And, I would like to add, paying attention to grain. If someone is a quilter used to slightly off grain strip cutting, that will not do for garment sewing. Maybe it is too fussy, but for picky details, like pockets and collars, I like to make a thin cardboard template. I find that the best way to make perfectly symmetrical pockets and mirror image collar points. When the garment is finished, I drop the template into the pattern envelope for further use.
Pressing or ironing is an important step we can’t skip to help our sewing projects look more professional and helps us sew better too. I love your videos and your personality ☺️
I was working on several handmade pieces from a kit, and the author in one of the instructional videos used a phrase that was something like, "affection without perfection," meaning that you should put love and care into your work, and not worry about it being so-called "perfect."
As a professional Costumer, YES, this, all of this! I have been to college and done a lot of independent labs, self taught or not YOU NEED BOOKS, "The Perfect Fit" published by Appel Press (don't know author) and "Designing Apparel Through Flat Patterns" by Kopp, Rolfo, Zelin and Gross, were and are my go to's! I will have to check out those other suggestions. But people in my industry rave about the Reader's Digest book. We also did samples in the beginners class for sewing that are like her print outs here. But we also did some fun projects, plushies, sleep pants, aprons or capes, pencil/tool pouch (good for learn how to apply a zipper). If you feel like you are doing really bad pick some low stress projects to help you learn. All of the other stuff in here is great info for beginners. Will add to the iron segment, you need to, if possible, use a good amount of steam. We even have high steam irons places I have worked! Be liberal if it won't damage the fabric, and wait for the iron to warm up or steaming will just be "why is the iron leaking". USE THE CORRECT SETTING!! And pressing clothes, a simple piece of cotton fabric that if needed you put between the iron and your garment, depending on the fabric, but nearly a must for synthetic. Never be without a pressing clothe if you are using an interface. And lastly, "iron, stitch, iron" if you are doing something like a hem and "press 3 times" are things I have hard along the way. I think ironing twice (this is after stitching) press the inside and press the outside and you are usually gold.
Love your video! Hint: It's pronounced Nancy Zeeman, not that it really matters. She was an exceptional person and extremely talented. My granddaughter and I had the pleasure of crossing paths with her near the end of her life. Truly a remarkable woman.
Thank you so much for the correction, it certainly does matter to me, she’s made sewing incredibly accessible to me and so it’s important to get the name right. I’ve heard someone else say the same thing about meeting her which is truly amazing
@@thecuratedcurvy Months before Nancy's death my young granddaughter, who was obsessed with watching Nancy's videos, dictated a special note/letter that she wanted sent to Nancy. Shortly thereafter Nancy's handwritten response came in the mail. One of Nancy's granddaughters is the same age as my granddaughter. Her response still brings tears to my eyes. Even as she was about to pass away Nancy wanted to instill a positive and loving message to someone. Her books and videos have been invaluable to me.
NGL, when I saw your video title, I thought what the heck lady. This is actually a well thought out and fair video. As a revert who absolutely did all the things well back in the day and then life happened and I worked way too hard and raised my kids. It’s interesting what I remember and what I need to refresh and what I need to completely relearn. It’s fascinating what the mind keeps and what the mind tosses out.
reason #3 is why I endorse handicraft teaching in schools! I am from Finland and here at the age of 11 kids start to get teaching on either textile or woodworking crafts, depends on which they prefer but everyone goes through half a year of both before making the choice. I still have a pencil case that we sewed doing this exact excercise! we had to sew a bunch of different lines on denim and then sewed the whole thing together. it has been so vital for me later in life as i've started learning to make my own clothes (i chose woodworking back then lol)
RUclips has been recommending me this video for so many days and I've procrastinated watching it. I'm glad I finally watch it because I learned so much. Thank you for such amazing tips that will make us improve or sewing skills.
Nancy Zieman had a long running TV show on PBS, most of it is on RUclips. When I was self taught ing myself I learned a lot from Sewing With Nancy. Yeah - get books. The Singer basics are a great starting point.
Very well said! Another senior sewist here. Pressing is so important! So is sewing the correct size for your body. I always tell people size is just a number srw to your measurements and start with your upper bust and bust measurements and adjust for the rest. Another great place to pick up used sew books is a library's used bookstore. Sometimes it takes some digging to find them. And Nancy's last name is pronounced Z-man. Great video, Thanks for creating it, it's something that a lot of sewists need to hear!
Thanks so much for the added recommendations (and correction)! I've recently discovered the craft books at my library and needless to say I was STOKED! My local library will just put 'out of rotation' books on a shelf to take at one's will but I will definitely seek out used library book stores now that I know they exist!
Absolutely. Using the full bust measurement will guarantee that your garment will not fit the shoulders and neckline unless you are a B cup. I love the multiple-cup size patterns .. really not into doing all the adjustments.
Be sure to look in your local library for sewing books. Our library has lots, and they are rarely checked out. Most libraries will let you automatically renew your books if no one else wants them, so you can often keep a book for around two months. Ask at the desk.
Hello, I've just found your channel and this video and I'm like you, stay at home mom, self taught and haven't totally ventured out to sewing clothes yet, I did make a shirt and a pair of pants a few years ago, in sewing classes I took with my mother in law, who bless her heart, is no longer with us😔 I've got that one complete guide to sewing book, and quite a few other sewing books, but would love some of the other, older books you referenced and showed. I'm hoping to find them on your blog🤗 have a great rest of your day🥰🙏
I’m so sorry for you loss, I loss my MIL recently too and it was a big blow. All of the resources are definitely there but let me know if you struggle to find them and I’ll drop a link in the comments. 🥰
@@thecuratedcurvy my MIL passed the end of September last year and it was a big blow, we knew she was going, but it was still a big blow to everybody. I will definitely be searching for the resources, I'm all for resources to sewing, upcycling, altering clothes you've already got, and learning to do stuff by hand, worst case scenario, thank you so very much🤗🤗
As a sewing tutor myself I agree with all of these, wholeheartedly. In my experience though there is at least one other reason and that is that often people don't know how to use their machines very well. I don't know if it's fear, overconfidence or laziness but I have people coming to quite advanced classes with their own often expensive machines and making rookie errors like not being able to wind a smooth snug bobbin, missing out guides in threading, not cleaning their machines or knowing when to change the needle for a new or different one, not knowing they have different stitch options that might be more suitable. Then they end up with poor stitch quality or worse, thread jams and damaged fabric. Knowing what feet and stitches to use for your project stitches is also very important but that means taking time to sit down with your manual, your machine and a pile of suitable scrap fabric and working your way through at least the common options re feet and stitch selection, learning how each option is set up for best use. There are a lot of things you can sit down and wing it on but a sewing machine is not one of them, it takes a bit of concentration and practice. Yes, it's a bugbear of mine, lol. Rant over, sorry!
I don’t mind the ‘rant’ at all LOL. This is actually such a good point. I do think that is another step taken for granted & can in fact remember how annoyed my daughter was with me when she wanted to learn to sew and we spent an entire sewing session threading then un-threading, loading then unloading and starting/stopping her stitches 😆
Worth ranting about☺️👍🏻... I came across this video because I was looking for tips and advice on how and what best to practice to improve my relationship with my sewing machine and therefore my end result projects. Your comments have helped too thank you
You described my Mum. She is forever putting metal bobbins in her Janome that takes a certain style of plastic bobbin. She calls me complaining about it jamming or not stitching well, every time she had put one of those metal bobbins back in. Over and over again. The last time I physically took them away and threw them out. I had already previously ordered her another pack of spares that actually fit, but still she was obsessed with putting those damn incorrect metal bobbins back in because 'they worked fine on my old machine' (that she owned 30+ years ago)
Great resource! Ironing and a good sewing book are critical - if you are doing a follow up, you should talk about grain - straightening off grain fabrics, following the right grainline, straightening edges, when to rip, when to pull a thread…
I picked up the complete guide to sewing because of this video and wow, I learned so much just in the first few pages! A couple years into using this machine and I just know found out my removable bobbin casing has a tension screw
These are good tips, and I have been sewing for over 50 years. The only tip I would add is to choose an easy fabric to sew .. lightweight linen and cotton, cotton poplin, stretch cotton sateen are excellent choices. Polyester anything is a complete nightmare IMO .. I would rather sew silk charmeuse. Some types of lightweight viscose/rayon are also challenging .. they slide around and shift when cutting out, etc. You will lose your mind! Big problem .. the sizing of patterns has not kept up with our changing body shapes. It is still based on WWII Army recruits who were fit and slim .. B cup, flat stomach, etc. This is why the Indie patterns have become so popular. Baggy, loose styles are unflattering and it is worth spending some time on fit.
I have been sewing since I was 11 years old. My teacher was my father who was a perfectionist. He was not a tailor by trade. I have successfully sewn everything from doll clothes to reupholstering furniture. Yet, in all my 68 years, I have never been able to sew any garment for myself! Sizing has always been an issue. I am an hourglass, plus size, under 5ft. Recently I have begun to pattern for myself. Needless to say, it is challenging. What I liked about your video was the honesty factor. No one is perfect and at some time we all need help. Looking forward to your future vlogs.
Fantastic advice. I agree with "perfect to your capabilities" sweat shops sew 1 or 2 seams day after day, so they really get a lot of practice at that one part of a project, not the entire thing. I think another problem we are all struggling with is using the best fabric for the garment that provides the proper drape, and ease. Great video, keep your curvy content coming. Your top is super cute, and is a great fit ❤️❤️
Totally agree! Thanks so much for watching and adding that bit to the comments! Thinking of coming up with a part two where I include the top as added in the comments 😊
Thank you for the video! I laughed put loud because I happened to be ironing as you said iron your seams lol. I want to add that self-drafting, costume making and upcycling thrift store finds were keys aspects of my personal sewing journey, mind you my mom is trained in sewing and a very technical, sew by pattern exactly kind of person. So just a quick note on how I found my version of perfect projects, definitely lots of freestyling but yes I do often iron my seams, not always though. AND I do not sew with a sewing machine, just by hand because I like it better - YES I have finished garments that way lol
Pressing is the one thing I didn’t do much early in my sewing, but I am almost obsessive about now. It makes all the difference. Hong Kong finish is not for beginners, but it is a lovely touch for an item you plan to have for a long time. Good ad ice on all points. I am 61, have been sewing for 45 years. At this point I really enjoy stretching my skills. Sometimes that makes for sucky results, but I learn something every time. Fitting is the one aggravating thing that still plagues me, but I tend to sew from several patterns I like, that I have adjusted to fit.
I’m new to seeing but as an experienced crocheter and home cook I second getting old books! So much useful information that’s still relevant today (well, with cookbooks I ignore anything on nutrition because they didn’t know all that we know today). Such a hidden gem for any domestic craft!
😆 so true about the nutrition bit! I've recently began collection old quilting books as it's the next hobby I want to get into. I'd LOVE to find an old crochet book.
Absolutely excellent. I’ve been a seamstress for many years (have sewn clothes for 50 years) and agreed with everything you said. Nancy’s pivot and slide is my go to with jumping off spots from that. Praying that sewing quality garments at home is not a dying art.
Nancy Zieman (zeeman) has a wealth of information at her website and in shows she produced for PBS. She has passed, but thanks to the internet, she lives on.
Very well thought out presentation. Other resources are old Threads and Sew News magazines. Threads also offers an archive of their past articles at their website. Check out used book stores in your communities. You'll probably find a wealth of material, as the generations who knew how to so are passing away and their sewing libraries often end up there.
I am in my first year of sewing at the ripe old age of 54. I, too, gravitated to RUclips and thought that was the best place for me to learn. I have definitely found some very helpful videos, and seamstresses who are passionate about what they do. I have now purchased a few out of date books, and am finding them so helpful. Your video is spot on, and I have hit the subscribe button. Thank you!
Wonderful! & thanks so much for subscribing! Wishing you the best of luck in your journey and looking forward to keeping up with you here in the comments! xo!
Thank you for these tips. I'm looking forward to teaching my kids how to sew (I just learned four years ago as an adult) and I'll start with straight stitches and curved stitches for the kids.
Thank you for this! When I read the title I was "how dare you?"... I mean you are right my sewing does suck but still... but of course you were right ON THE MONEY in all points and your advices are super appreciated.
Great video for those of us who had to take home ec instead of woodworking. Let me tell you a secret: I hate preparing fabric. I hate pressing pattern pieces. I hate laying out pattern pieces. I hate pinning patterns to fabric. I hate cutting out then marking. I hate filling bobbins then threading my machine. I hate pressing seams. I hate frogging. I LOVE TO SEW!!! When I sew my garment, and realize my vision, I LOVE TO SEW! I still wish I had taken shop. LOL
I agree sizing is definitely my problem especially when it comes to making shirts and blouses. I have all but given up on it but will try the above breast measure and I hope it works. Thank you for the tips.
Firstly -- you are amazing! This video just resonated so much for me and I am diving into all of your resources and your videos. Thank you so much and may your work shine!
You are a doll! I have been a sewer for a long time, but with kids and grad school ot was set aside. With my youngest halfway done with high school, I have had more time for sewing exploration. I very much lookforward to seeing more of your work and advice.
In addition to learning/understanding the underlying techniques of sewing, you have to build the requisite muscle memory (visual and tactile) for sewing, cutting, fabric handling. These are real skills which is why trades have apprenticeships. And those skills get built by seat time (and curse words). And it is not practice that makes perfect, rather it is perfect practice makes perfect. Learning the right way and incorporating it into our work practices (sewing, cooking, wiring, carpentry etc) creates the mastery that we all want. And having the right expectation for our outcome given our skill level goes a long way toward not becoming frustrated and abandoning the journey toward mastery (in anything that we are doing).
As an Indigenous (Native American) I have become inspired to decolonize my clothing, and even make clothing to sell to others who feel the same way as I do. I have a lot of ideas for fabrics and appliqué designs etc. to make my pieces interesting and beautiful - but since I have very little experience with actual designing and sewing - I am quite scared & am grateful that the actual clothing designs are quite forgiving in their more simple shape (Ribbon Skirts & T-dresses). I appreciate videos like yours which open my eyes up to the intricate aspects of sewing and your final point resonated most with me, "Something being perfect to your OWN capabilities😅..sometimes we want our own version of perfection to look like someone else's..[but] as we all grow our version of perfection [in sewing] will change ... you will only get better with time." 💓 Miigwetch/Thank you 💗
I can really appreciate your mission. I don’t doubt that you will be able to bring your ideas to fruition. If you haven’t already get a notebook and put those ideas on paper. As you become more skilled they’ll be there waiting to be tackled 😊
@@thecuratedcurvy Thank you for the reply and Yes! My Color coded binder has been a god send so I can get all of the ideas out of my head and into somewhere I can refer to...20 sections so far🥰
Those are great points and I will be referring to them, especially in managing my expectations. I always want my projects to look like the pro's. It just isn't possible right now. With time and practice, yes. Also, I've learned to prewash my fabrics! Skipping that step will throw me every time.
So true. At least steam press the fabric carefully. I also have to manage my expectations. "Fabric and a dream" is a trap. Now, I really look at patterns and fabric and see the reality instead of the version generated by my creative imagination. I do understand why experienced sewers tend to stick to their favourite patterns and fabric types, or even experiment with making a bodice block and drafting their own patterns.
The Reader's Digest Complete Guide is an absolute treasure-trove. I had access to my mom's copy growing up and inherited my Gramma's copy. It seriously gives a solid foundation in almost any sewing technique you can possibly think of.
You were absolutely on point. Especially the parts about finishing seams and getting the right fit. I want to point out that Nancy Zieman's last name is pronounced "Zee men". I also have one of her books that explains the Pivot and Slide method. She's excellent.
Good video. Nancy Zieman's techniques are awesome. I have several of her books. I heard once that the shoulders are the support of the garment and that's very true because the garment, most of the time, rests on the shoulders.
Perfect to your own capabilities ♥️♥️♥️. That, was a much needed bit of advice. I can’t wait to see more of your videos. I really connected with you on this one.
Also important with Big 4 patterns is finding the garments FINISHED measurements to determine which size to sew, which is dependent on how you want the garment to fit. Finished measurements will give you an idea of how much ease is built into the pattern. If you're a 22 but there's 8" of ease and you want a slimmer fit, you would size down. For a looser fit, size up. Thank you for the bonus tip! I struggle with this one a lot. Social media can be super intimidating even if you never post your own work.
I came into this with maybe I'll learn something new, and in the best way I didn't. What I mean is this is every tip I would give a new seamstress right now. I own all of those books you mentioned, I upgraded my iron a couple of years ago, I became a huge fan of french seams for finishing....And truly as you have implied it all came through experience. Just doing it. However I'm going to add one thing that really improved my garments, understitching. I'm not the biggest fan of topstitching, if it's not perfect it can stick out like a sore thumb, but that understitching can just improve the look of so many necklines. I absolutely loved this video and will share it with everyone I get into sewing now :D
That book is great - I think I got it when it first came out in the 70s? I was lucky - my grandma was a seamstress so I learned the “right” way to do things. It’s been almost 20 years since I’ve used a sewing machine and all that early learning is still with me. You just have to keep making things and have fun with it.
I like how you gave advice from basic level to advanced, I'm also now very into drafting my own pattern or adjusting the commercial pattern to my size. Also your sewing room setup looks fabulous 🌟
Glad it was helpful! And yay for the pattern-making journey! Also thanks, it’s forever a work in progress (the sewing room) but I’m truly blessed to have it 😊
Great info, I just thought I would share that Nancy Ziemann is pronounced Zeeman. I watched her show for years - great information even though she has passed.
I just began sawing and learning to make alterations to my clothes and I found this video wonderfully done. I can't wait to print those pdfs and exercise my straight and curved stitches! I also loved the point about books, which is valid for so many other things and is not talked about much. Congrats for teaching such a precious skill to your little daughter. She'll be grateful to you one day.
Oh yay! I'm so happy you found the video useful! Thanks so much for the positive feedback. Those pdf's are so helpful, especially for the curved lines. I'm so honored my daughter has taken an interest in it and is at least willing to learn. I always get so jealous when I hear people talk of their life-long sewing, like I missed out or something LOL
My mother was an excellent seamstress and could make beautiful fully lined suits. She used to make all of our clothes when we were little and ofcourse we all matched! She’s gone now and I find myself at the ripe old age of 55 wanting to learn how to sew. This was a great video and you have inspired me to try sewing again. Thanks!❤
What a wonderful site! You are BRILLIANT! The Book Depositary is also fantastic for Very Affordable used books! I LOVE Everything you've said today and I'm extremely impressed with all of your advice! I'm also thrilled that you have a download for sewing straight lines and curves ... I was doing a soft furnishings and interior design course at Tafe here in Australia and the very first thing we had to learn to do on the commercial sewing machines was to practice sewing straight lines and curves before we were allowed to move on to other projects. I've been paralysed a few times since then so I've had to relearn so many things... but the one thing that I haven't relearnt, is to sew the straight lines and curves. It just recently returned to sewing and I've realised how much I need to practice so I wanted to get my Carer (I'm unable to write, etc as I've also developed major tremors) to draw straight lines and curves for me to practice on, so I'm more than thrilled that you have provided a link for me to print out those practice pages! It was also impressed upon us that we must always 'press' our seams (or any sewing for that matter), because it 'sets' the stitching into the fabric therefore giving a professional finish and we were also taught to 'press' the seam as opposed to simply 'ironing' it. Do you always open the seams in your garments, or are there occasions when you keep them closed? As you mentioned the need for a 'ham', do you have a pattern for one by any chance? - just hoping ... 😉 What a wonderful resource you've provided with your videos. Thank you! I have a copy of the Readers Digest sewing resource book sitting up on the shelf in my sewing room ... I've been meaning to read through it again ... so you've now given me the impetus to take it down and read it thoroughly. I originally bought it for the soft furnishings section and ended up also using it for the knitting instructions! It's a fabulous book! I've recently decided to start sewing a few dresses for myself after spending most of my sewing time for soft furnishings. I thought that I'd just use a couple of dresses that I already have and love as they are also very comfortable styles to wear. They don't need much fitting as one has 1/4 inch pintucks in the front beginning at the midpoint on the shoulder and going right across the front of the dress with small accent buttons below the middle of the V neck, with 1 inch ruffles around the armholes and the V neck. The other comfy style just has a round yoke and gathers at the front and back. However I thought that I'd like to attempt to sew a sleeveless wrap around dress ... the top part cut separately and wrap around/across, and the skirt wrap around/across but flared. The last time I made a dress like this was when I was a very slim teenager and I loved it. I think that it could be rather forgiving as it's a wrap over dress so gives a V neckline and the skirt might be forgiving in the waistline as the belt with the ties at the side might distract the eye from the wider waist, and the ruffles should do the same on the skirt but accentuate the bust with the ruffles going across in the V. Do you know the term used by seamstresses when making up a mock pattern (usually in calico) that allows changes to the pattern before cutting out in the final fabric? I bought quite a lot of calico (still on the roll) to make slipcovers for a large couch I had several years ago. I didn't end up using it, so I thought that I'd use it to test and fit my ideas for patterns before cutting into my good fabrics. I bought a few metres of lovely fabrics several years ago so I thought that I could finally use them, but I don't want to cut them out until I've tested out my patterns so I figured that I might as well use the calico I have. 🙂 Do you have any suggestions for me? I live on the east coast, in the subtropics of Australia, it's a very casual lifestyle with a very warm to hot climate most of the time with 4 - 6 weeks of cool/cold (65F+) weather that's our winter so a cardigan over a long sleeve blouse is about as much as we need to wear during that season. This is the reason why I love these styles of dresses as anything more fitted is just too uncomfortable, however we do wear shorts, as well as jeans during the autumn, winter and spring seasons so slightly more fitted clothing is able to be worn. I'm 70 now, so I'm also retired, which is another reason why I don't need to wear anything more substantial, but have the luxury to wear whatever feels comfortable, so I've discovered that mature age has some benefits! 😀
Hey there Wendy! Thanks so much for the lovely comment. It’s really cool to know that you’ve worked with soft furnishings as that is a little desire of mine. I think I might be ready soon to take on a smaller project. For a pressing ham (also called a tailor’s ham) pattern, check out this page - they have a free download! www.twigandtale.com/blogs/twig-and-tale-blog/how-to-make-your-own-tailors-ham-free-pattern The term for mock-up’s is ‘toiles or a toile’. Though here in the US we almost exclusively use the term mock-ups. As for the wrap dress I’m still on the hunt for a good wrap dress pattern but McCall’s 7969 has a lovely faux wrap top and it is relatively easy to make. Now it does have some voluminous sleeves but I find that those sleeves are VERY forgiving when you’re just starting out. It’s also a bit roomy so you might want to consider sizing down and I believe it is available for PDF if McCall’s isn’t readily available in your area! Best of luck to you and your sewing adventures! Looking forward to some updates on your triumphs in the future!
Yes! I found that Reader's Digest book at a thrift store for 50 cents last year. I wish I had this book 40 years ago! Great book, highly recommend it if you can find it.
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Good video. The point that hits most for me is sizing. I have a hard time determining which measurements make most sense to determine size on pre-printed patterns, and how to adjust the patterns to look flattering when a size is picked. I'm a very weird shape, and I think that's the most discouraging part of my sewing journey.
I'm sorry to hear that, I'd venture to say you're not weird shaped but rather unique. I would look into body types as a jumping off point to get the ball rolling on what styles you may find to be flattering on you. Keep your measurements on hand and determine which area of you frame do you like to highlight. You can use that to make informed decisions when determining what to sew. Example: my bust is 44", I like to highlight my bust and accentuate my waist so I don't want a pattern with a finished garment measurement of say 51" at the bust. Don't be discouraged, remember: the only difference between you and an expert seamstress is the time spent sewing. You'll get there!
Nancy Zieman's fitting techniques are something I find really helpful (but they go by the SHOULDER measurement, not the overbust measurement as the video said). Changed the game for me. Once you get the hang of it, you'll develop a standard set of adjustments that you can apply to pretty much any pattern. For non-Big4 patterns, I know I sew a size 16 in Big 4 at the shoulders, which is a 38 full bust, so I choose a 38 bust at the shoulders in whatever Indie or Burda patterns I sew too.
I have found success with multiple-cup sized patterns. Cashmerette makes good ones for curvy women AND they have a calculator online which calculates your size based on measurements high bust, full bust, waist, and hips. It gives advice such as "use the size 16 D/DD and grade to size 18 for waist and 20 for hips". It works. Some companies, such as Named Clothing, give the measurements of their pattern block as well as the finished measurements so that you can see how much ease has been added. Hope that helps.
I totally get this. I started looking more at the finished garment measurements on the back of the envelope to get a better idea of fit.
@@thecuratedcurvy What a wonderful encouraging and helpful response to that comment! 👏 I think that most of us have a part of our bodies that don't quite fit the mass produced patterns. I think that in reference to your suggestion about finding what part of ones body is best to accentuate, it might help to find styles suit ones body in ready made garments by 'going shopping' and then seeing what suits one's body best, as well as what colours best suit one's hair and skin colouring e.g I know that certain yellows and oranges make me look washed out, but I've only learnt this by trying various shades of colours over the years. I've fallen in love with certain fabrics only to find that when made up, the colours look terrible on me. This is also another way to discover what best suits your body shape and this way you can also get an idea of what fabric patterns the designers use for your size and shapes, e.g. you'll rarely find horizontal stripes on a large sized dress, but horizontal stripes at the bust of someone with a smaller bust can help to accentuate it, so it's worth checking out what fabric patterns and fabric types that the professionals choose for their clothing as they have to consider and design for the majority of people buying garments of particular size ranges. btw. What do you mean by 'highlight' your bust and 'accentuate' your waist? I'm just wondering if there's a subtle difference between the two that I'm missing. 🤔
One piece of advice my mother and grandmother gave me is don’t sew when you’re tired, in a hurry, frustrated with a step in the process or distracted because you’re more likely to spend more time ripping out stitches than actually sewing. It took me one time only to learn that lesson the hard way. This is the same advice I passed on to my own daughter.
I've read that same advice in some older sewing/ homemaking books I have!!♥️♥️♥️
@@andreamaclachlan980 It's true! Also - when you want to finish a garment but something is wonky, don't go "nevermind". Put it away. Come back later. Rip out the stitches or fix what needs fixing. It's the "nevermind" you had in that moment that is gonna make your garments sad looking.
Me at fashion design college: hated sewing, was my worst subject, bursted into tears using it in a few occasions
Me over a decade later, with no due dates and grades: at least 70% of my wardrobe was made by myself, love sewing lil things for friends and family, may or may not be a fabric compulsive buyer
Your grandma and mom knew what they were talking about, mad respect for factory workers cause sewing+stress is a no no for me.
I tell my very young students the same thing... don't sew if you are tired and sleepy.... excellent way to sew your finger!
So very true Sarah Ebert
If you're dealing with an expensive fabric or one you don't want to waste, ALWAYS do a mockup before starting on the actual garment! Mockups are boring, but they will save you tears and a lot of extra work.
I struggle with mock ups because I can alter them to fit but then have no clue how to mirror those changes onto the real thing/adjust the real thing accordingly it's usually so frustrating I just go straight to the real thing and alter from there. Are there any good videos showing how to actually use mock ups well?
A way I mock is sheets from thrift store, cheap and saves money. I don't feel like I ruining good fabric.
Even then you may not be wasting fabric with a mock up. In the 1700s it wasn't uncommon to use the fabric used in the fitting process to be reused as the lining! I think we should do that again.
@@k49821 If you sew the mock-up using the longest stitch setting, and just do the main seams using the main pattern pieces (don’t worry with plackets or cuffs or pockets or things like that yet) you can try on this mock-up and after adjusting it take it back apart and use it for your pattern.
@@k49821 You can cut up the mock up once you are done and use it as pattern pieces. Of course you have to mark the darts beforehand. This will give you a very durable pattern made of fabric. And extra tip - if you sre used to seam allowances remember you now have a pattern without seam allowances. You have to add them before cutting. Good luck with your next project🍀
I started sewing at 4 years old. My mom made all our clothes & I would sit at her feet and make (pretty crappy) clothes for my dolls. I will never forget the first time my mom let me “sew” on the machine. I sat on her lap & she guided my hands and pushed the petal. I made a pair of shorts with a casing and elastic. I was hooked. I glad of the knowledge I gleaned from my mother because she was killed in a car accident when I was 10 so I feel like I’m carrying on a legacy. I am proud to say that I have 60 years sewing experience, some professional.
It’s so enlightening to see people finally wanting to learn sewing again. I thought it was dying out. SOOOOO, don’t forget to ask older, more experienced people for help and advice. I see a lot of sewing tutorials on RUclips that make me cringe, but at least people are doing it & figuring it out.
My #1 advice….iron, iron, iron. You can sew without a machine, but not an iron.
Now this little bit of advice is what I was taught & it makes me cringe when I see it happening all the time….don’t use the selvages to save time on a hem or finish. Look closely at any selvage, the weave is tighter, more condensed and doesn’t drape the same as the fabric. A lot of time it will shrink and make that seam pull tighter, throwing off the fit and drape of your garment. I was taught to cut them off for that very reason.
I thank you young lady. I am a senior who has been sewing from age 4. I try to encourage every little girl I meet to learn to sew. I started making doll clothes at age 4. I can now sew freehand and also with commercial patterns. I too use a smaller seam allowance when sewing commercial patterns for my perfect fit. I wish you great success in your sewing. I have saved thousands of dollars sewing for myself and my home decor.
it's such a useful skill! I've taught my daughter and look forward to one day (hopefully) teaching my son. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment 😊
I’d love to add, please say the same to every boy too. There’s no gender to sewing, it’s for everyone
@@jasminemaedbh7105 was just going to say the same... i teach ALL people to sew. Sewing is NOT a gender thing.
"Be perfect to your own capabilities"... such a good way of thinking about things and managing expectations. I also really appreciated the advice on sizing. It can be madness figuring out the correct sizing.
So true! Glad this video proved useful!
1. Press your seams
2. Finish the inside of your garments
3. Master the straight and the curve stitch
4. Sewing the wrong size
5. You're your only resource - Get a book
6. Manage your expectations
I cried and the universe delivered! I needed this video so bad after completely mutilating yet another shirt collar. It’s just been me and RUclips since 2020 and I don’t know what I don’t know. But I expect myself to know and I shouldn’t so thank you for the much needed advice!
First of all can we commend you for taking on the dreaded collar?!?! 👏👏👏
I'm so happy to know you found the video useful, honestly that piece of advice was also among the most impactful for me too!
Hey you being here is great! Btw if she hasn't gone over it, sew from the middle out on shirt collars. It helps keep the tension.
If you cut the interfacing to lay just inside the seamline, it will reduce bulk.
To get a slight curve: take the piece that will be concealed when the collar is down (if the collar is popped, that's the exterior) and trim it to about 1/8th inch smaller at the end. As you sew, pull this piece towards the edge and when you press, press it on a tailors ham.
If you do all of this, it should give you a beautiful collar. David page coffin(?) Has some excellent books on shirt making. We used one in college as a shirt tailoring textbook so it's a good resource and cheap.
@@dismurrart6648 there are always more collars to sew, thanks for the tips much appreciated!!
I know the feeling. If it helps, even experienced people make mistakes!
that overcast foot is a game changer!
It really is!
As someone professionally trained, the very first thing we learnt was to stitch on an industrial sewing machine, which is at least 3 to 4 times as fast as a home machine. To do this we had to follow either a set of squares set inside each other with 1/4 inch inbetween, down to 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch, we also did this with a set of concentric circles set the same way. If you do this using paper you will soon be able to go straight, and also only guide the fabric to the Needle, after the needle the sem is done, you cannot change it DO NOT pull the fabric through, guide it to the front.
I have been sewing clothes for myself all my life, and was never really happy with the result, until i realized i was actually using the wrong sizes. So now i try to adjust as best as i can and at least they fit me well now 😅 I love learning better techniques, real traditional and also practical tips, as long as it improves durability. That leaves me with the biggest problem.... I still have clothes in perfect shape from 35 years ago......🤣
Iam 67, been sewing most of my life. There is always something to learn .I have a old book from 1956 I got at a yard sale, love it and it is so interesting.
Serger was *THE*game changer for me. Which then motivated me to be better and more precise with everything else. Absolutely GENIUS tip on the books. I have that same Reader’s Digest book that I inherited from my mom! ❤❤”You are not them” ❤❤❤❤ best advice
My best advice is to draw from the past for sewing techniques. A hundred years ago, most clothing was homemade, so they knew exactly what was most important when it came to making a high-quality, long-lasting garment at home. Sewing is more of a novelty now, but it was a necessity back then. The book Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques has taught me SO much about the fundamentals of sewing. When using historical techniques, my clothes fit better, last longer, are more adaptable, and it is easier to figure out what I need to do with no guide. It definitely takes longer to do, but it's so worth it.
You are spot on with your assessment! Fit was always a thorn in my side - I, too, am a voluptuous woman. I eventually stopped trying, and moved into home dec and quilting. Sometimes I think I’d like to get back into garment sewing, but I’m retired, disabled and live in jeans, so that likely won’t happen. Nonetheless, it was a pleasure watching your video and a surprise when you talked about Nancy Zieman [pronounced zeeman]. I used to lived 45 minutes close to Nancy’s company. One day I read where Nancy’s Notions was having a huge sale, so I grabbed Mom and we went on a short roadtrip together. That day, I had the pleasure of meeting Nancy; she was just as sweet and lovely in person as she was on camera. She is greatly missed.
A good resource for beginners or working through issues, are sheets and curtains from opportunity shops/ Goodwill. You can finesse patterns, or practice on unfamiliar materials without spending a fortune on fabric. Great video!
Your first tip about pressing all seams is critical! I started sewing at about age ten at home. I’m pushing seventy now. I still remember my sewing teachers from Jr high and senior high lecturing about pressing. Every seam sewn=trip to the ironing board. I remembering being amazed what a difference it made compared to the things I had done at home. (I was on my own as my Mom didn’t sew at all!) And your #6 is absolutely true!!! No one is perfect! If you expect perfection you will never be happy. Wether in Sewing or anything else. You will improve with practice. Give yourself lots of Grace and keep your project close to your skill level. Challenge yes, overwhelm, not satisfying at all. Love your machine stitching worksheets! I remember doing lots of them in my first sewing class in 7th grade.
Bless you for shouting out on Bernadette Banner! I LOVE her and follow her, and aspire to her abilities. This was a great video, I also LOVED that you called out "press your seams" as #1. Sooo true! My sewing improved so much after I took a workshop from Kenneth King (the KING of costumes and pressing). I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Dear curvy sewist, I just discovered your channel and am most impressed by your knowledge and presentation. Allow me to suggest another point which bedevils beginning sewers, which is not understanding the qualities of various fabrics. And, I would like to add, paying attention to grain. If someone is a quilter used to slightly off grain strip cutting, that will not do for garment sewing.
Maybe it is too fussy, but for picky details, like pockets and collars, I like to make a thin cardboard template. I find that the best way to make perfectly symmetrical pockets and mirror image collar points. When the garment is finished, I drop the template into the pattern envelope for further use.
Pressing or ironing is an important step we can’t skip to help our sewing projects look more professional and helps us sew better too. I love your videos and your personality ☺️
So true! & thanks so much 😊😊
I was working on several handmade pieces from a kit, and the author in one of the instructional videos used a phrase that was something like, "affection without perfection," meaning that you should put love and care into your work, and not worry about it being so-called "perfect."
I love that!
THIS is so true. When I'm lazy and don't press the difference is obvious.
As a professional Costumer, YES, this, all of this! I have been to college and done a lot of independent labs, self taught or not YOU NEED BOOKS, "The Perfect Fit" published by Appel Press (don't know author) and "Designing Apparel Through Flat Patterns" by Kopp, Rolfo, Zelin and Gross, were and are my go to's! I will have to check out those other suggestions. But people in my industry rave about the Reader's Digest book. We also did samples in the beginners class for sewing that are like her print outs here. But we also did some fun projects, plushies, sleep pants, aprons or capes, pencil/tool pouch (good for learn how to apply a zipper). If you feel like you are doing really bad pick some low stress projects to help you learn.
All of the other stuff in here is great info for beginners. Will add to the iron segment, you need to, if possible, use a good amount of steam. We even have high steam irons places I have worked! Be liberal if it won't damage the fabric, and wait for the iron to warm up or steaming will just be "why is the iron leaking". USE THE CORRECT SETTING!! And pressing clothes, a simple piece of cotton fabric that if needed you put between the iron and your garment, depending on the fabric, but nearly a must for synthetic. Never be without a pressing clothe if you are using an interface. And lastly, "iron, stitch, iron" if you are doing something like a hem and "press 3 times" are things I have hard along the way. I think ironing twice (this is after stitching) press the inside and press the outside and you are usually gold.
great advice!!! the saying is "sew a seam press a seam"
Thank you! I felt like I was messing it up LOL 😆
Love your video! Hint: It's pronounced Nancy Zeeman, not that it really matters. She was an exceptional person and extremely talented. My granddaughter and I had the pleasure of crossing paths with her near the end of her life. Truly a remarkable woman.
Thank you so much for the correction, it certainly does matter to me, she’s made sewing incredibly accessible to me and so it’s important to get the name right. I’ve heard someone else say the same thing about meeting her which is truly amazing
@@thecuratedcurvy Months before Nancy's death my young granddaughter, who was obsessed with watching Nancy's videos, dictated a special note/letter that she wanted sent to Nancy. Shortly thereafter Nancy's handwritten response came in the mail. One of Nancy's granddaughters is the same age as my granddaughter. Her response still brings tears to my eyes. Even as she was about to pass away Nancy wanted to instill a positive and loving message to someone. Her books and videos have been invaluable to me.
Wow, what a legacy to leave behind. I can understand why that meant and still means so much - she clearly was gift to us sewist everywhere.
NGL, when I saw your video title, I thought what the heck lady. This is actually a well thought out and fair video. As a revert who absolutely did all the things well back in the day and then life happened and I worked way too hard and raised my kids. It’s interesting what I remember and what I need to refresh and what I need to completely relearn. It’s fascinating what the mind keeps and what the mind tosses out.
I sometimes have trouble with curved stitches. I will often hand baste a curvy stitch before I machine sew it. It helps a lot.
reason #3 is why I endorse handicraft teaching in schools! I am from Finland and here at the age of 11 kids start to get teaching on either textile or woodworking crafts, depends on which they prefer but everyone goes through half a year of both before making the choice. I still have a pencil case that we sewed doing this exact excercise! we had to sew a bunch of different lines on denim and then sewed the whole thing together. it has been so vital for me later in life as i've started learning to make my own clothes (i chose woodworking back then lol)
My favorite tips, manage your expectations, and practice! Confession; I never practice & I’m often disappointed in the results-DUH!
RUclips has been recommending me this video for so many days and I've procrastinated watching it. I'm glad I finally watch it because I learned so much. Thank you for such amazing tips that will make us improve or sewing skills.
Thanks so much for giving it a shot! I'm so glad you found it useful ☺
Nancy Zieman had a long running TV show on PBS, most of it is on RUclips. When I was self taught ing myself I learned a lot from Sewing With Nancy.
Yeah - get books. The Singer basics are a great starting point.
you are sooooo right about the importance of pressing for a professional looking garment!
Very well said! Another senior sewist here. Pressing is so important! So is sewing the correct size for your body. I always tell people size is just a number srw to your measurements and start with your upper bust and bust measurements and adjust for the rest. Another great place to pick up used sew books is a library's used bookstore. Sometimes it takes some digging to find them.
And Nancy's last name is pronounced Z-man.
Great video, Thanks for creating it, it's something that a lot of sewists need to hear!
Thanks so much for the added recommendations (and correction)! I've recently discovered the craft books at my library and needless to say I was STOKED! My local library will just put 'out of rotation' books on a shelf to take at one's will but I will definitely seek out used library book stores now that I know they exist!
Absolutely. Using the full bust measurement will guarantee that your garment will not fit the shoulders and neckline unless you are a B cup. I love the multiple-cup size patterns .. really not into doing all the adjustments.
I used to own that Reader’s Digest Book. I’m pretty sure I got rid of it but now I wish I would have kept it!
I agree with your comments "get a book". I have one that I inherited from my grandma, Vogue from the 1920s
Be sure to look in your local library for sewing books. Our library has lots, and they are rarely checked out. Most libraries will let you automatically renew your books if no one else wants them, so you can often keep a book for around two months. Ask at the desk.
Hello, I've just found your channel and this video and I'm like you, stay at home mom, self taught and haven't totally ventured out to sewing clothes yet, I did make a shirt and a pair of pants a few years ago, in sewing classes I took with my mother in law, who bless her heart, is no longer with us😔 I've got that one complete guide to sewing book, and quite a few other sewing books, but would love some of the other, older books you referenced and showed. I'm hoping to find them on your blog🤗 have a great rest of your day🥰🙏
I’m so sorry for you loss, I loss my MIL recently too and it was a big blow. All of the resources are definitely there but let me know if you struggle to find them and I’ll drop a link in the comments. 🥰
@@thecuratedcurvy my MIL passed the end of September last year and it was a big blow, we knew she was going, but it was still a big blow to everybody. I will definitely be searching for the resources, I'm all for resources to sewing, upcycling, altering clothes you've already got, and learning to do stuff by hand, worst case scenario, thank you so very much🤗🤗
As a sewing tutor myself I agree with all of these, wholeheartedly. In my experience though there is at least one other reason and that is that often people don't know how to use their machines very well. I don't know if it's fear, overconfidence or laziness but I have people coming to quite advanced classes with their own often expensive machines and making rookie errors like not being able to wind a smooth snug bobbin, missing out guides in threading, not cleaning their machines or knowing when to change the needle for a new or different one, not knowing they have different stitch options that might be more suitable. Then they end up with poor stitch quality or worse, thread jams and damaged fabric. Knowing what feet and stitches to use for your project stitches is also very important but that means taking time to sit down with your manual, your machine and a pile of suitable scrap fabric and working your way through at least the common options re feet and stitch selection, learning how each option is set up for best use. There are a lot of things you can sit down and wing it on but a sewing machine is not one of them, it takes a bit of concentration and practice. Yes, it's a bugbear of mine, lol. Rant over, sorry!
I don’t mind the ‘rant’ at all LOL. This is actually such a good point. I do think that is another step taken for granted & can in fact remember how annoyed my daughter was with me when she wanted to learn to sew and we spent an entire sewing session threading then un-threading, loading then unloading and starting/stopping her stitches 😆
Worth ranting about☺️👍🏻... I came across this video because I was looking for tips and advice on how and what best to practice to improve my relationship with my sewing machine and therefore my end result projects. Your comments have helped too thank you
You described my Mum. She is forever putting metal bobbins in her Janome that takes a certain style of plastic bobbin. She calls me complaining about it jamming or not stitching well, every time she had put one of those metal bobbins back in. Over and over again. The last time I physically took them away and threw them out. I had already previously ordered her another pack of spares that actually fit, but still she was obsessed with putting those damn incorrect metal bobbins back in because 'they worked fine on my old machine' (that she owned 30+ years ago)
The iron part is now mandatory now about to invest in a steamer, took my garments to a whole different level, clean and professional appearance
I’m also looking into steamers now. I think I’ve found one that looks to be reliable. Next is saving for it lol!
Great resource! Ironing and a good sewing book are critical - if you are doing a follow up, you should talk about grain - straightening off grain fabrics, following the right grainline, straightening edges, when to rip, when to pull a thread…
I picked up the complete guide to sewing because of this video and wow, I learned so much just in the first few pages! A couple years into using this machine and I just know found out my removable bobbin casing has a tension screw
It’s such a rich book! I recently learned the same 😆
Pressing seams is my favorite part!
These are good tips, and I have been sewing for over 50 years. The only tip I would add is to choose an easy fabric to sew .. lightweight linen and cotton, cotton poplin, stretch cotton sateen are excellent choices. Polyester anything is a complete nightmare IMO .. I would rather sew silk charmeuse. Some types of lightweight viscose/rayon are also challenging .. they slide around and shift when cutting out, etc. You will lose your mind! Big problem .. the sizing of patterns has not kept up with our changing body shapes. It is still based on WWII Army recruits who were fit and slim .. B cup, flat stomach, etc. This is why the Indie patterns have become so popular. Baggy, loose styles are unflattering and it is worth spending some time on fit.
I find that so fascinating that the measurements haven’t changed after all this time! Thanks for sharing!
I mean I'd argue that some of us enjoy the baggy, loose comfortable styles (lagenlook!), but it is an interesting point about sizes not changing.
@@sirenamber totally valid but I think the point you’re getting at is a more relaxed silhouette vs something that just doesn’t fit, you know?
@@thecuratedcurvy I know, they just keep shifting the size number over .. a 1950's size 12 is now a 6, etc.
So glad to see the paper sewing pages. That’s the way they started us “back in the day” when they had home economics in school❤
I have been sewing since I was 11 years old. My teacher was my father who was a perfectionist. He was not a tailor by trade. I have successfully sewn everything from doll clothes to reupholstering furniture. Yet, in all my 68 years, I have never been able to sew any garment for myself! Sizing has always been an issue. I am an hourglass, plus size, under 5ft. Recently I have begun to pattern for myself. Needless to say, it is challenging. What I liked about your video was the honesty factor. No one is perfect and at some time we all need help. Looking forward to your future vlogs.
Fantastic advice. I agree with "perfect to your capabilities" sweat shops sew 1 or 2 seams day after day, so they really get a lot of practice at that one part of a project, not the entire thing. I think another problem we are all struggling with is using the best fabric for the garment that provides the proper drape, and ease.
Great video, keep your curvy content coming. Your top is super cute, and is a great fit ❤️❤️
Totally agree! Thanks so much for watching and adding that bit to the comments! Thinking of coming up with a part two where I include the top as added in the comments 😊
I LOOOOVE Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. I have learned so many techniques from that book. I'm glad you mentioned it!
Wonderful! 😊
Thank you for the video! I laughed put loud because I happened to be ironing as you said iron your seams lol. I want to add that self-drafting, costume making and upcycling thrift store finds were keys aspects of my personal sewing journey, mind you my mom is trained in sewing and a very technical, sew by pattern exactly kind of person. So just a quick note on how I found my version of perfect projects, definitely lots of freestyling but yes I do often iron my seams, not always though. AND I do not sew with a sewing machine, just by hand because I like it better - YES I have finished garments that way lol
WOW! I'm always mesmerized by people who can construct their garments completely by hand.
Pressing is the one thing I didn’t do much early in my sewing, but I am almost obsessive about now. It makes all the difference. Hong Kong finish is not for beginners, but it is a lovely touch for an item you plan to have for a long time. Good ad ice on all points. I am 61, have been sewing for 45 years. At this point I really enjoy stretching my skills. Sometimes that makes for sucky results, but I learn something every time. Fitting is the one aggravating thing that still plagues me, but I tend to sew from several patterns I like, that I have adjusted to fit.
I’m new to seeing but as an experienced crocheter and home cook I second getting old books! So much useful information that’s still relevant today (well, with cookbooks I ignore anything on nutrition because they didn’t know all that we know today). Such a hidden gem for any domestic craft!
😆 so true about the nutrition bit! I've recently began collection old quilting books as it's the next hobby I want to get into. I'd LOVE to find an old crochet book.
Absolutely excellent. I’ve been a seamstress for many years (have sewn clothes for 50 years) and agreed with everything you said. Nancy’s pivot and slide is my go to with jumping off spots from that. Praying that sewing quality garments at home is not a dying art.
I couldn't agree more. These days I am encouraged though to see a lot of people regaining an interest in it 😊
Nancy Zieman (zeeman) has a wealth of information at her website and in shows she produced for PBS. She has passed, but thanks to the internet, she lives on.
Very well thought out presentation. Other resources are old Threads and Sew News magazines. Threads also offers an archive of their past articles at their website. Check out used book stores in your communities. You'll probably find a wealth of material, as the generations who knew how to so are passing away and their sewing libraries often end up there.
I am in my first year of sewing at the ripe old age of 54. I, too, gravitated to RUclips and thought that was the best place for me to learn. I have definitely found some very helpful videos, and seamstresses who are passionate about what they do. I have now purchased a few out of date books, and am finding them so helpful. Your video is spot on, and I have hit the subscribe button. Thank you!
Wonderful! & thanks so much for subscribing! Wishing you the best of luck in your journey and looking forward to keeping up with you here in the comments! xo!
Thank you for these tips. I'm looking forward to teaching my kids how to sew (I just learned four years ago as an adult) and I'll start with straight stitches and curved stitches for the kids.
it's so much fun teaching kids - you see them making geunine connections and it feels like magic ✨wishing you (and them) much success!!!
Thank you for this! When I read the title I was "how dare you?"... I mean you are right my sewing does suck but still... but of course you were right ON THE MONEY in all points and your advices are super appreciated.
😆 by far my favorite comment of the day!!
This was a great list! It was nice to hear someone else also talk about managing expectations and letting yourself take the journey and grow
I love that idea of sewing to your own level of perfection!
Great video for those of us who had to take home ec instead of woodworking. Let me tell you a secret:
I hate preparing fabric. I hate pressing pattern pieces. I hate laying out pattern pieces. I hate pinning patterns to fabric. I hate cutting out then marking.
I hate filling bobbins then threading my machine. I hate pressing seams. I hate frogging.
I LOVE TO SEW!!!
When I sew my garment, and realize my vision, I LOVE TO SEW!
I still wish I had taken shop. LOL
I agree sizing is definitely my problem especially when it comes to making shirts and blouses. I have all but given up on it but will try the above breast measure and I hope it works. Thank you for the tips.
I love your sensible advice and down to earth attitude...keep up the good work..
I appreciate that! Thanks so much 😊
Great video, I've been sewing since 2012 and have a bachelors in Fashion Design and agree with everything on this video.
Thanks for sharing that with me! 😊
This is priceless when it comes to doll clothes too. All these little things make so much difference, it is crazy!
These are all solid tips. Thanks for putting this together.
My pleasure! I’m glad the information is useful 😊
Firstly -- you are amazing! This video just resonated so much for me and I am diving into all of your resources and your videos. Thank you so much and may your work shine!
Wow, and all of that without breathing once: respect!
very sensible information !
LOL, I have been told a time or two I talk pretty fast 😆
You are a doll! I have been a sewer for a long time, but with kids and grad school ot was set aside. With my youngest halfway done with high school, I have had more time for sewing exploration. I very much lookforward to seeing more of your work and advice.
Thanks so much! It's amazing how life makes twists and turns, only for us to (happily) arrive back at the thing we once knew 😊
the books source and managing expectations are the good ones for me! thank you!!
Love your Bonus#6 !!!!!!!!!
In addition to learning/understanding the underlying techniques of sewing, you have to build the requisite muscle memory (visual and tactile) for sewing, cutting, fabric handling. These are real skills which is why trades have apprenticeships. And those skills get built by seat time (and curse words). And it is not practice that makes perfect, rather it is perfect practice makes perfect. Learning the right way and incorporating it into our work practices (sewing, cooking, wiring, carpentry etc) creates the mastery that we all want. And having the right expectation for our outcome given our skill level goes a long way toward not becoming frustrated and abandoning the journey toward mastery (in anything that we are doing).
Very helpful, Even to a seasoned sewer 😉 Oh, I have to say, the pronunciation is Nancy 'Zeeman' from my hometown. ♥️ Great advice! Thanks!
Glad I came across your video and wow, what an interesting topic. Thanks for sharing your books, definitely going to look into it..
First time to the channel totally love it. Shes original, classy, sincere and original. Great video.
Wow, thank you!
As an Indigenous (Native American) I have become inspired to decolonize my clothing, and even make clothing to sell to others who feel the same way as I do. I have a lot of ideas for fabrics and appliqué designs etc. to make my pieces interesting and beautiful - but since I have very little experience with actual designing and sewing - I am quite scared & am grateful that the actual clothing designs are quite forgiving in their more simple shape (Ribbon Skirts & T-dresses). I appreciate videos like yours which open my eyes up to the intricate aspects of sewing and your final point resonated most with me, "Something being perfect to your OWN capabilities😅..sometimes we want our own version of perfection to look like someone else's..[but] as we all grow our version of perfection [in sewing] will change ... you will only get better with time." 💓 Miigwetch/Thank you 💗
I can really appreciate your mission. I don’t doubt that you will be able to bring your ideas to fruition. If you haven’t already get a notebook and put those ideas on paper. As you become more skilled they’ll be there waiting to be tackled 😊
@@thecuratedcurvy Thank you for the reply and Yes! My Color coded binder has been a god send so I can get all of the ideas out of my head and into somewhere I can refer to...20 sections so far🥰
Those are great points and I will be referring to them, especially in managing my expectations. I always want my projects to look like the pro's. It just isn't possible right now. With time and practice, yes. Also, I've learned to prewash my fabrics! Skipping that step will throw me every time.
Oh yes! That’s a critical one too! I’m happy to know you found the information in this video useful 😊
So true. At least steam press the fabric carefully. I also have to manage my expectations. "Fabric and a dream" is a trap. Now, I really look at patterns and fabric and see the reality instead of the version generated by my creative imagination. I do understand why experienced sewers tend to stick to their favourite patterns and fabric types, or even experiment with making a bodice block and drafting their own patterns.
Yes I got the same Readeers Digest at my local Savers for 3 bucks! I agree many people are making the wrong size.
First of all, that is such a score!! And yes, the sizing is such a sore spot for so many!
The Reader's Digest Complete Guide is an absolute treasure-trove. I had access to my mom's copy growing up and inherited my Gramma's copy. It seriously gives a solid foundation in almost any sewing technique you can possibly think of.
goshh I love the fact that you keep up a blog !! I'ts so cool and useful thank you
You're so welcome! 😊
Love this video! Short and sweet, but chock full of great information. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
First time watching... you are simply beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much!! :)
Pressing is so important! I sewed doge years without pressing and when I finally did, wow it was so much better!
It really is a difference maker!
Had to subscribe. I've just picked up sewing and I know your channel will be a great resource in my journey. Thanks for this video.
Awesome! Thank you!
You were absolutely on point. Especially the parts about finishing seams and getting the right fit. I want to point out that Nancy Zieman's last name is pronounced "Zee men". I also have one of her books that explains the Pivot and Slide method. She's excellent.
“Sewing with Nancy” was my favorite TV show for all the years she was filming! I learned so much.
Good video. Nancy Zieman's techniques are awesome. I have several of her books. I heard once that the shoulders are the support of the garment and that's very true because the garment, most of the time, rests on the shoulders.
Perfect to your own capabilities ♥️♥️♥️. That, was a much needed bit of advice. I can’t wait to see more of your videos. I really connected with you on this one.
Thank you so much!! I'm so glad it was helpful - that point was a really big hurdle for me too when I was really getting into sewing.
This is very helpful to me as a seamstress and would improve my tutorials on my RUclips channel
Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Sometimes, we need to hear the hard truth. Good points. Thank you.
Also important with Big 4 patterns is finding the garments FINISHED measurements to determine which size to sew, which is dependent on how you want the garment to fit. Finished measurements will give you an idea of how much ease is built into the pattern. If you're a 22 but there's 8" of ease and you want a slimmer fit, you would size down. For a looser fit, size up.
Thank you for the bonus tip! I struggle with this one a lot. Social media can be super intimidating even if you never post your own work.
This was pretty much my tip. I fully endorse. Love all the comments.
I came into this with maybe I'll learn something new, and in the best way I didn't. What I mean is this is every tip I would give a new seamstress right now. I own all of those books you mentioned, I upgraded my iron a couple of years ago, I became a huge fan of french seams for finishing....And truly as you have implied it all came through experience. Just doing it. However I'm going to add one thing that really improved my garments, understitching. I'm not the biggest fan of topstitching, if it's not perfect it can stick out like a sore thumb, but that understitching can just improve the look of so many necklines. I absolutely loved this video and will share it with everyone I get into sewing now :D
Yes! Under stitching is such an important step! Thanks so much for adding that to comments & for your lovely comment of course 😊
That book is great - I think I got it when it first came out in the 70s? I was lucky - my grandma was a seamstress so I learned the “right” way to do things. It’s been almost 20 years since I’ve used a sewing machine and all that early learning is still with me. You just have to keep making things and have fun with it.
So true, I once heard someone say sewing is like riding a bike - once you get it down the skill is always with you!
This is the best video I have seen on this topic. You hit all 5, well 6, nails on the head. Kudos.
Yay! Literally the best feedback one could receive! 😊
I like how you gave advice from basic level to advanced, I'm also now very into drafting my own pattern or adjusting the commercial pattern to my size.
Also your sewing room setup looks fabulous
🌟
Glad it was helpful! And yay for the pattern-making journey! Also thanks, it’s forever a work in progress (the sewing room) but I’m truly blessed to have it 😊
For me pressing the seams after each stitch made the biggest improvement to my work.
So true! It’s amazing what some heat and steam can do!
Great info, I just thought I would share that Nancy Ziemann is pronounced Zeeman. I watched her show for years - great information even though she has passed.
I just began sawing and learning to make alterations to my clothes and I found this video wonderfully done. I can't wait to print those pdfs and exercise my straight and curved stitches! I also loved the point about books, which is valid for so many other things and is not talked about much.
Congrats for teaching such a precious skill to your little daughter. She'll be grateful to you one day.
Oh yay! I'm so happy you found the video useful! Thanks so much for the positive feedback. Those pdf's are so helpful, especially for the curved lines.
I'm so honored my daughter has taken an interest in it and is at least willing to learn. I always get so jealous when I hear people talk of their life-long sewing, like I missed out or something LOL
My mother was an excellent seamstress and could make beautiful fully lined suits. She used to make all of our clothes when we were little and ofcourse we all matched! She’s gone now and I find myself at the ripe old age of 55 wanting to learn how to sew. This was a great video and you have inspired me to try sewing again. Thanks!❤
That's so great to hear!
So true about pressing everything!
that Nancy Zeiman fitting finesse video is my bible.
She was a legend
Seriously, I’ve just started watching her old sewing videos on RUclips. So much valuable information!
What a wonderful site! You are BRILLIANT! The Book Depositary is also fantastic for Very Affordable used books! I LOVE Everything you've said today and I'm extremely impressed with all of your advice! I'm also thrilled that you have a download for sewing straight lines and curves ... I was doing a soft furnishings and interior design course at Tafe here in Australia and the very first thing we had to learn to do on the commercial sewing machines was to practice sewing straight lines and curves before we were allowed to move on to other projects. I've been paralysed a few times since then so I've had to relearn so many things... but the one thing that I haven't relearnt, is to sew the straight lines and curves. It just recently returned to sewing and I've realised how much I need to practice so I wanted to get my Carer (I'm unable to write, etc as I've also developed major tremors) to draw straight lines and curves for me to practice on, so I'm more than thrilled that you have provided a link for me to print out those practice pages!
It was also impressed upon us that we must always 'press' our seams (or any sewing for that matter), because it 'sets' the stitching into the fabric therefore giving a professional finish and we were also taught to 'press' the seam as opposed to simply 'ironing' it. Do you always open the seams in your garments, or are there occasions when you keep them closed?
As you mentioned the need for a 'ham', do you have a pattern for one by any chance? - just hoping ... 😉
What a wonderful resource you've provided with your videos. Thank you!
I have a copy of the Readers Digest sewing resource book sitting up on the shelf in my sewing room ... I've been meaning to read through it again ... so you've now given me the impetus to take it down and read it thoroughly. I originally bought it for the soft furnishings section and ended up also using it for the knitting instructions! It's a fabulous book!
I've recently decided to start sewing a few dresses for myself after spending most of my sewing time for soft furnishings. I thought that I'd just use a couple of dresses that I already have and love as they are also very comfortable styles to wear. They don't need much fitting as one has 1/4 inch pintucks in the front beginning at the midpoint on the shoulder and going right across the front of the dress with small accent buttons below the middle of the V neck, with 1 inch ruffles around the armholes and the V neck. The other comfy style just has a round yoke and gathers at the front and back.
However I thought that I'd like to attempt to sew a sleeveless wrap around dress ... the top part cut separately and wrap around/across, and the skirt wrap around/across but flared. The last time I made a dress like this was when I was a very slim teenager and I loved it. I think that it could be rather forgiving as it's a wrap over dress so gives a V neckline and the skirt might be forgiving in the waistline as the belt with the ties at the side might distract the eye from the wider waist, and the ruffles should do the same on the skirt but accentuate the bust with the ruffles going across in the V. Do you know the term used by seamstresses when making up a mock pattern (usually in calico) that allows changes to the pattern before cutting out in the final fabric?
I bought quite a lot of calico (still on the roll) to make slipcovers for a large couch I had several years ago. I didn't end up using it, so I thought that I'd use it to test and fit my ideas for patterns before cutting into my good fabrics. I bought a few metres of lovely fabrics several years ago so I thought that I could finally use them, but I don't want to cut them out until I've tested out my patterns so I figured that I might as well use the calico I have. 🙂 Do you have any suggestions for me?
I live on the east coast, in the subtropics of Australia, it's a very casual lifestyle with a very warm to hot climate most of the time with 4 - 6 weeks of cool/cold (65F+) weather that's our winter so a cardigan over a long sleeve blouse is about as much as we need to wear during that season. This is the reason why I love these styles of dresses as anything more fitted is just too uncomfortable, however we do wear shorts, as well as jeans during the autumn, winter and spring seasons so slightly more fitted clothing is able to be worn. I'm 70 now, so I'm also retired, which is another reason why I don't need to wear anything more substantial, but have the luxury to wear whatever feels comfortable, so I've discovered that mature age has some benefits! 😀
Hey there Wendy! Thanks so much for the lovely comment. It’s really cool to know that you’ve worked with soft furnishings as that is a little desire of mine. I think I might be ready soon to take on a smaller project.
For a pressing ham (also called a tailor’s ham) pattern, check out this page - they have a free download! www.twigandtale.com/blogs/twig-and-tale-blog/how-to-make-your-own-tailors-ham-free-pattern
The term for mock-up’s is ‘toiles or a toile’. Though here in the US we almost exclusively use the term mock-ups.
As for the wrap dress I’m still on the hunt for a good wrap dress pattern but McCall’s 7969 has a lovely faux wrap top and it is relatively easy to make. Now it does have some voluminous sleeves but I find that those sleeves are VERY forgiving when you’re just starting out. It’s also a bit roomy so you might want to consider sizing down and I believe it is available for PDF if McCall’s isn’t readily available in your area!
Best of luck to you and your sewing adventures! Looking forward to some updates on your triumphs in the future!
Thank you for this video, and for your insights! The patterns to learn how to sew are a great idea, thank you again for providing them :)
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Yes! I found that Reader's Digest book at a thrift store for 50 cents last year. I wish I had this book 40 years ago! Great book, highly recommend it if you can find it.
what a score!!!
Excellent tips! Thank you for sharing!