Absolutely love this! I had an idea kn mind and just search here to see of anyone had already done it. I'm so glad I'm not the only one who has this brilliant idea!
I also wanted to add that I'm going cement floor to an already existing wood floor. I'll be using Schluter-Ditra XL 5/8 inch. Be careful as it comes in two sizes 1/8 and 5/8 inches. My 1/4 inch tile will now equal the wood height of 3/4 inches taking into consideration for the thin-set. I will use Spin Doctor spacer 1/8 inch to match up the wood floor as they will help me space, level, and align, the tiles. Again thanks I'm sure there are other ways just thought this might get you rolling on your creative floor ideas.
I have those same pics saved. I wanted this so badly in the entryway of my home, but ended up not doing it because I was scared it wouldn't work. I am going to attempt it in my bathroom when I tile my shower and let it flow out from tile to waterproof vinyl plank flooring. Fingers crossed 🤞🏽! Thanks for your video!
This video helped me build a tile hearth for a wood stove and have it recessed into the hardwood floor. I used the same tile caulk, bought a 2nd hand multi tool to buy the corners. Thanks dude.
This gives me the information I needed to know if this type of transition was possible with existing hardwood floors. For a small open concept dining room/kitchen space - what size hexagon tiles do you think would be best? What did you use? Any recommendations on places to shop for these types of tiles? Thank you!
That’s pretty awesome man I’ll see you a little bit more than the DIY. He hex are not easy tile to work with. On another point try using spectra lock 1 premix next time it’s a lot easier to clean then fusion and you can do bigger seccións stay busy my friend.
Thanks. I thought of one improvemnt. Tape the wood and mark on the tape. Cut the line with a knife before cutting. I would also have taped the edges of the wood before applying glue and grout. Bad to get those on the wood.
I’m doing this with laminate, back door entry way. Using an oscillating tool with half-moon wood serated tip... make sure you get the serated tip, the teeth will be staggered and not in a perfect row (helps with clean lines). When it comes to the the sharp angles you can get really close and then use a box cutter with force to get perfect angles. Dry fit your tiles with spacers to make sure everything is spaced perfectly, if you have uneven spacing close to the laminate and need to shave off small portions use painters tape to get a perfect line and attach sanding tip to oscillating tool. This project is very very difficult to do if you have poor vision, it is imperative to have impeccable eye sight and concentration when doing the angles cuts. Just take your time and if possible use a sharpie and make your outline perfect for spacing because it is so hard to go back and recut the laminate after you have already cut your lines (this is why I used the sanding tip). Don’t rush anything. Cutting the laminate will take a long time so just be patient.
CAMERON!!! AMAZING JOB !! OMG CAN YOU PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHERE YOU PURCHASED THESE BEAUTIFUL TILES!!?!? This is exactly what I have been looking for and I'm having the hardest time finding this exact look! Please tell me where you purchased this tile !!!!??????? Please and thank you kindly!
The wood is solid tongue and groove hardwood, so it is nailed down on the edge with nails at an angle. I put a few extra nails in the pieces I had to cut near the transition to keep them secure. But the wood will expand/contract a bit with temperature and weather, so that is why I used the caulking for the transition to the tile. It allows for a little bit of flex instead of a brittle, rigid grout line. Thanks for the comment!
Love the floor transition... I am looking to do the same thing at my house but I’m doing new engineered hardwood and hex tile I do have a couple of questions: what is the thickness of your hardwood? becuase I am trying to figure out how to have a smooth transition from tile to floor in terms of hight I am using 1/2 hardwood what hex tile sz you used 7x8? Thanks!!
Hey Claudio - will your engineered hardwood be attached to the subfloor? I wouldn't recommend this approach if you are planning to have the engineered floor float. But if you are attaching it to the subfloor in some way, then you should be ok. If its only 1/2" thick, you will likely have a bit of a height difference at the transition. I've put all of the specs of my floor and tile in other comments below, so just look around for all of that. The Ragno Rewind hex tiles that I used are 7.17″ × 8.27″. Good luck on your project!
Hi Cameron thanks for tour feedback ... Unfortunately I alreadu bought the floors which are 1/2 and I plan to glue them to the sub floors .... unfortunately if I use 1/4 backer board the tiles would end up too high is there any other option you know of or recommend that I could do since I dont have alot of threshold to ensure even width on both tile and flooors .... is its mandatory to use backer cement board ?
Great Video. Looking to do something very similar. I was hoping you can answer two questions for me. 1) What was your tile thickness, and how is the transition heigh between the tile and hardwood (it looks very good in the video). 2) What style of hardwood did you have? Was it floating, nail down, glue, engineered? 1/2" etc. Thanks!
The tile thickness is 9.5 mm (~0.37″). The transition from the tile to the hardwood is just about level. The hardwood is solid 3/4" birch (closer to 5/8" nominal), and it is nailed to the subfloor. So the tile plus the 1/4" backer board plus the two layers of thinset just about perfectly matches the height of the hardwood.
Cameron Bates I am planning on doing this but I bought engineered hardwood of 1/2 ... is it possible to achieve this? also what sz hex tile you used I was looking into using 7”x8”... Thanks!
Hello! So helpful as I am looking to do this in my bathroom on an existing wood floor. Worried about the tile to wood transition over time. Does the silicone/acrylic caulk crack over time in that transition or has it held up ok?
So far it has held up perfectly, but we have only had this for about 7 months. But the product I chose, the ceramic tile caulk, was what was recommended to me by the manufacturer (Custom Building Products) as a good solution to allow for the expansion/contraction of the wood floors relative to the tile.
Thank you so much for the responses! Super helpful. Can you also tell me how thick your engineered hardwoods are? Ours seem thin to me and even with something like ditra in place of hard i backer to take some of the thickness out, I can’t see getting below .63 inches abs think my hardwood is thinner
@@andreathomas2794 Yeah it will be tough to get a perfectly even transition from tile to 3/8 engineered hardwoods. My floor is 5/8" which makes the transition work out a lot better. But you don't want to lay your tile directly on subfloor without some kind of substrate.
I want to do something similar to this with hardwood and tile but was told by the installer that from his experience the wood would soak up some of the moisture from the grout and would then crack. Do you know if this is true?
For the transition between the wood and the tile I did not use grout. I used a sanded tile caulking. This gives it some flexibility and prevents cracking. I've had no problems with the transition line.
Hey Robert .. thank you for sharing your skill and experience.. if you don’t mind sharing the brand name or where you bought from the tile that would be appreciated.. Thanks again ..
I saw he mentioned that it was the Ragno Rewind Hexagon Tiles. I found them online but unable to find a supplier that I can purchase from online- if you find one please let me know as I have a project underway and would love to have them too. Good luck!
Now that you've done it this way with the wood in first, do you think it would have been easier to do the tile first... or would you do it this way again? I'd have thought your way was superior, but the other video (like you said) put the tiles down first.
Good question, and it’s hard to say as I’ve only tried it the one way. I think either method works as long as you take your time and measure carefully. That being said, I think the method of tiling first and then laying the wood up to the tile may be more forgiving if you make a mistake.
No the flooring is solid hardwood so it is nailed to the subfloor. So i just made sure that all of the pieces that meet up to the tile were nailed down really well. Hope that helps. Love your work with the funky bunch btw.
Great video! I'm in the process of trying to do this in my home. We're running into problems with the flush look. What is your height gap between the tile and wood?
Jonathan McGeoghan our hardwood is 5/8” thick, and is nailed to the subfloor. The tile is 1/4” thick, and the hardibacker board is 1/4” thick. If you add two layers of mortar (one between subfloor and hardibacker, one between hardibacker and tile) you end up just about flush.
The floors are solid wood, so they are nailed down to the subfloor. But there will still be some movement, so that is why I used the sanded tile caulk along the transition from tile to wood. It keeps some flexibility where grout would likely crack and deteriorate over time.
The tile thickness is 9.5 mm (~0.37″). The transition from the tile to the hardwood is just about level. The hardwood is solid 3/4" birch (closer to 5/8" nominal), and it is nailed to the subfloor. So the tile plus the 1/4" backer board plus the two layers of thinset just about perfectly matches the height of the hardwood. Used a 1/4” notch trowel for the thinset.
It really depends on the thickness of your tile, and the thickness of your laminate flooring. Also I wouldn't recommend putting tile directly on wood subfloor as that is not a solid enough surface and your tile/grout could crack. Hope that helps.
@@cjbates123 there’s concrete under the vinyl flooring I’ll be pulling up. My contractor is word about my laminate wood because it’s clicked in, not glued down.
@@KCE4 Yeah I would probably listen to your flooring guy on this. If the vinyl floors float that could present a problem where it meets up to the tile.
I only have experience doing this with solid hardwood, but I would guess with most laminate floors you would run into an issue where the thickness of the tile+substrate would be much thicker than your laminate flooring.
That might be a possibility, but again I’m not a flooring expert. I would definitely consult someone with more professional experience on something like that.
I assure you it did for me, my tile is perfectly flush with the hardwood. But it all depends on the thickness of your particular hardwood/tile/etc. Again, I used solid wood floors that are about 5/8" thick. Tile sits on 1/4" backer board. Got to measure your own materials though!
Хобби
![Cordae - Saturday Mornings (feat. Lil Wayne) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2GYJua09F0/mqdefault.jpg)
Exactly what I was looking for!!
First time I have seen a how to on tile that was actually helpful. Nice job
nice project
I don't plan on doing something like this, but I definitely found this very helpful and interesting regardless. Looks amazing! Love the color choice
Great explanation, images and breakdown of the process. Thanks for sharing
Perfect pre-install plan and perfect execution. 👍🏼
I have been searching and searching for just this!!! Thank you!
This is an AMAZING CUSTOM LOOK! You did a fabulous job!
Awesome job! I feel inspired to take on a similar job. Thank you
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Fantastic work and very inspiring.
Great work! love the patience and effort you put in!
Great job man, this is exactly what I was looking for, floor looks beautiful!
Absolutely love this! I had an idea kn mind and just search here to see of anyone had already done it. I'm so glad I'm not the only one who has this brilliant idea!
Amazing job! I’m so glad you made this video, it’s exactly what I need to tackle the project I want to do.
This is incredibly impressive. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much for this how-to. You did a great job, looks amazing.
I also wanted to add that I'm going cement floor to an already existing wood floor. I'll be using Schluter-Ditra XL 5/8 inch. Be careful as it comes in two sizes 1/8 and 5/8 inches. My 1/4 inch tile will now equal the wood height of 3/4 inches taking into consideration for the thin-set. I will use Spin Doctor spacer 1/8 inch to match up the wood floor as they will help me space, level, and align, the tiles. Again thanks I'm sure there are other ways just thought this might get you rolling on your creative floor ideas.
Gorgeous! Very helpful video. Thank you.
Well done, nice job, thanks for sharing.
Beautiful work and described well.
Gorgeous! Wish I had this flooring!
Great job, looks awesome
It looks sooooo good!
This is beautiful. This is exactly what I want to do in my home.
Nice, thank you...i start my cutting today
Gorgeous!
Great work !!!! This is actually perfect for my school homework! Thanks
Great job… Well done!
Thank you,
this helps me a lot. I will start my project in Sep.
Looks great 👍🏻
I have those same pics saved. I wanted this so badly in the entryway of my home, but ended up not doing it because I was scared it wouldn't work. I am going to attempt it in my bathroom when I tile my shower and let it flow out from tile to waterproof vinyl plank flooring. Fingers crossed 🤞🏽! Thanks for your video!
looks great!
You killed it!
Love it great work!
Looks awesome man
You might not be fast but..... your quality is for sure there in full force. Very well done. You do better work then my hired guys
Looks great
Awesome video
Very cool!
That’s actually pretty damn cool
What an awesome idea…
This video helped me build a tile hearth for a wood stove and have it recessed into the hardwood floor. I used the same tile caulk, bought a 2nd hand multi tool to buy the corners. Thanks dude.
Thats amazing! So glad it helped!
Yeah, sure did! Putty I can’t add a photo in these comments
@@MrMilesThompson for sure would love to see it! Happy DIYing my man!
Looks sick wow
Very helpful video. thanks
Que serviço maravilhoso! Parabéns pessoal, fizeram um ótimo trabalho!
Thanks for the video
Bro that is bad azz!
👍 Love my kitchen
Very nice.
This gives me the information I needed to know if this type of transition was possible with existing hardwood floors. For a small open concept dining room/kitchen space - what size hexagon tiles do you think would be best? What did you use? Any recommendations on places to shop for these types of tiles? Thank you!
Great ...
Thx...
This looks amazing! Can you provide a link to purchase the ragno tiles you used? Really interested in having this look in my bathroom
That’s pretty awesome man I’ll see you a little bit more than the DIY. He hex are not easy tile to work with. On another point try using spectra lock 1 premix next time it’s a lot easier to clean then fusion and you can do bigger seccións stay busy my friend.
BS
Thanks. I thought of one improvemnt. Tape the wood and mark on the tape. Cut the line with a knife before cutting. I would also have taped the edges of the wood before applying glue and grout. Bad to get those on the wood.
Great video! Thanks! Is your floor real wood or a laminate wood floor?
You killed it!! I really want to try this but I have laminate. Has anyone done this with a floating floor?
I’m doing this with laminate, back door entry way. Using an oscillating tool with half-moon wood serated tip... make sure you get the serated tip, the teeth will be staggered and not in a perfect row (helps with clean lines). When it comes to the the sharp angles you can get really close and then use a box cutter with force to get perfect angles. Dry fit your tiles with spacers to make sure everything is spaced perfectly, if you have uneven spacing close to the laminate and need to shave off small portions use painters tape to get a perfect line and attach sanding tip to oscillating tool. This project is very very difficult to do if you have poor vision, it is imperative to have impeccable eye sight and concentration when doing the angles cuts. Just take your time and if possible use a sharpie and make your outline perfect for spacing because it is so hard to go back and recut the laminate after you have already cut your lines (this is why I used the sanding tip). Don’t rush anything. Cutting the laminate will take a long time so just be patient.
CAMERON!!! AMAZING JOB !! OMG CAN YOU PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHERE YOU PURCHASED THESE BEAUTIFUL TILES!!?!? This is exactly what I have been looking for and I'm having the hardest time finding this exact look! Please tell me where you purchased this tile !!!!??????? Please and thank you kindly!
Ragno Rewind collection. 8" x 8" hex tile in "Peltro". I got at a local tile store but you can find them online.
I'm assuming you got lucky on it all being the same size, meaning it came out flush? or what width of backboard did you use? thanks.
Is it real hardwood flooring? How did you secure the hardwood down along where it met the tile?
This is from a tile setter 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks Michael!
Great job!! What keeps the wood down? Just the calking? Does the wood flex upward at all?
The wood is solid tongue and groove hardwood, so it is nailed down on the edge with nails at an angle. I put a few extra nails in the pieces I had to cut near the transition to keep them secure. But the wood will expand/contract a bit with temperature and weather, so that is why I used the caulking for the transition to the tile. It allows for a little bit of flex instead of a brittle, rigid grout line. Thanks for the comment!
@@cjbates123 Thanks!!
Love the floor transition...
I am looking to do the same thing at my house but I’m doing new engineered hardwood and hex tile I do have a couple of questions:
what is the thickness of your hardwood? becuase I am trying to figure out how to have a smooth transition from tile to floor in terms of hight I am using 1/2 hardwood
what hex tile sz you used 7x8?
Thanks!!
Hey Claudio - will your engineered hardwood be attached to the subfloor? I wouldn't recommend this approach if you are planning to have the engineered floor float. But if you are attaching it to the subfloor in some way, then you should be ok. If its only 1/2" thick, you will likely have a bit of a height difference at the transition. I've put all of the specs of my floor and tile in other comments below, so just look around for all of that. The Ragno Rewind hex tiles that I used are 7.17″ × 8.27″. Good luck on your project!
Hi Cameron thanks for tour feedback ... Unfortunately I alreadu bought the floors which are 1/2 and I plan to glue them to the sub floors .... unfortunately if I use 1/4 backer board the tiles would end up too high is there any other option you know of or recommend that I could do since I dont have alot of threshold to ensure even width on both tile and flooors .... is its mandatory to use backer cement board ?
Great Video. Looking to do something very similar. I was hoping you can answer two questions for me. 1) What was your tile thickness, and how is the transition heigh between the tile and hardwood (it looks very good in the video). 2) What style of hardwood did you have? Was it floating, nail down, glue, engineered? 1/2" etc. Thanks!
The tile thickness is 9.5 mm (~0.37″). The transition from the tile to the hardwood is just about level. The hardwood is solid 3/4" birch (closer to 5/8" nominal), and it is nailed to the subfloor. So the tile plus the 1/4" backer board plus the two layers of thinset just about perfectly matches the height of the hardwood.
Cameron Bates I am planning on doing this but I bought engineered hardwood of 1/2 ... is it possible to achieve this? also what sz hex tile you used I was looking into using 7”x8”... Thanks!
Would this work with a floating wood floor?
Hello! So helpful as I am looking to do this in my bathroom on an existing wood floor. Worried about the tile to wood transition over time. Does the silicone/acrylic caulk crack over time in that transition or has it held up ok?
So far it has held up perfectly, but we have only had this for about 7 months. But the product I chose, the ceramic tile caulk, was what was recommended to me by the manufacturer (Custom Building Products) as a good solution to allow for the expansion/contraction of the wood floors relative to the tile.
Thank you so much for the responses! Super helpful. Can you also tell me how thick your engineered hardwoods are? Ours seem thin to me and even with something like ditra in place of hard i backer to take some of the thickness out, I can’t see getting below .63 inches abs think my hardwood is thinner
Confirmed my engineered woods are 3/8inch- does that make this not possible?
@@andreathomas2794 Yeah it will be tough to get a perfectly even transition from tile to 3/8 engineered hardwoods. My floor is 5/8" which makes the transition work out a lot better. But you don't want to lay your tile directly on subfloor without some kind of substrate.
Great job ! What is the name of the wood floor ?
The floor is a 5/8" solid Birch
I want to do something similar to this with hardwood and tile but was told by the installer that from his experience the wood would soak up some of the moisture from the grout and would then crack. Do you know if this is true?
For the transition between the wood and the tile I did not use grout. I used a sanded tile caulking. This gives it some flexibility and prevents cracking. I've had no problems with the transition line.
Hey Robert .. thank you for sharing your skill and experience.. if you don’t mind sharing the brand name or where you bought from the tile that would be appreciated..
Thanks again ..
I would love to know this as well. I cannot find the accent framed tiles and I really love how it breaks up the floor
I saw he mentioned that it was the Ragno Rewind Hexagon Tiles. I found them online but unable to find a supplier that I can purchase from online- if you find one please let me know as I have a project underway and would love to have them too. Good luck!
Now that you've done it this way with the wood in first, do you think it would have been easier to do the tile first... or would you do it this way again? I'd have thought your way was superior, but the other video (like you said) put the tiles down first.
Good question, and it’s hard to say as I’ve only tried it the one way. I think either method works as long as you take your time and measure carefully. That being said, I think the method of tiling first and then laying the wood up to the tile may be more forgiving if you make a mistake.
Hey. How is it holding up. Any issues between the transition from wood to tile ? Thanks
No issues so far! That sanded grout at the transition seems to work really well. Looks exactly the same as it did when I installed it 2.5 years ago.
How did you hold down the wood floor? Did it lip up at all
No the flooring is solid hardwood so it is nailed to the subfloor. So i just made sure that all of the pieces that meet up to the tile were nailed down really well. Hope that helps. Love your work with the funky bunch btw.
Where did you get the tile
Great video! I'm in the process of trying to do this in my home. We're running into problems with the flush look. What is your height gap between the tile and wood?
Jonathan McGeoghan our hardwood is 5/8” thick, and is nailed to the subfloor. The tile is 1/4” thick, and the hardibacker board is 1/4” thick. If you add two layers of mortar (one between subfloor and hardibacker, one between hardibacker and tile) you end up just about flush.
Try different variations with kerdi membrane and plywood thicknesses to add up to your hardwood.
@@cjbates123 Is this type of job more expensive than a regular job if I hire a contractor to do it?
@@chrisginoc I would expect it to be fairly expensive to hire someone to do this. It's quite labor intensive.
@@cjbates123 Thanks for the response. Im obsessed with this transition look,but I might have to wait and pay to get it done.
Hi do you think you can do it with laminate flooring?
I wouldn’t recommend doing this with laminate flooring.
Did you have to secure the wood floor so that it doesn't move over time and bust the grout lines at the transition point?
The floors are solid wood, so they are nailed down to the subfloor. But there will still be some movement, so that is why I used the sanded tile caulk along the transition from tile to wood. It keeps some flexibility where grout would likely crack and deteriorate over time.
@@cjbates123 makes sense. I assumed it was a floating wood floor. Looks great by the way
How thick was the wood floor and the tile. What thickness was the grout trowel
Nice job!
The tile thickness is 9.5 mm (~0.37″). The transition from the tile to the hardwood is just about level. The hardwood is solid 3/4" birch (closer to 5/8" nominal), and it is nailed to the subfloor. So the tile plus the 1/4" backer board plus the two layers of thinset just about perfectly matches the height of the hardwood. Used a 1/4” notch trowel for the thinset.
@@cjbates123 thank you that was really helpful.
What size are your tie
How is the hardwood secured to the subfloor?
Nailed
What the name of the lighter color tile you used in the pattern?
They are also from the Ragno Rewind collection. The catalog calls these “R4DT Rewind Decoro geometrico Vanilla”
But was the marker really magic?
Where is the Dunkin are you gonna drive i yeaht
One more! What is the size of the hex tiles?
The tile is the "Rewind" line from Ragno. They are 8" hex tiles.
@@cjbates123 What color? I am not seeing a black or charcoal on the website.
@@williamsond The dark gray color is called Peltro www.ragnousa.com/series/rewind
what is the size of the hexagon tiles?
8”
Will this work with laminate wood flooring?
It really depends on the thickness of your tile, and the thickness of your laminate flooring. Also I wouldn't recommend putting tile directly on wood subfloor as that is not a solid enough surface and your tile/grout could crack. Hope that helps.
@@cjbates123 there’s concrete under the vinyl flooring I’ll be pulling up. My contractor is word about my laminate wood because it’s clicked in, not glued down.
@@KCE4 Yeah I would probably listen to your flooring guy on this. If the vinyl floors float that could present a problem where it meets up to the tile.
Can you do this with laminate floor?
I only have experience doing this with solid hardwood, but I would guess with most laminate floors you would run into an issue where the thickness of the tile+substrate would be much thicker than your laminate flooring.
@@cjbates123 couldn't you fix that by adding some sorta spacer material like plywood under the laminate?
That might be a possibility, but again I’m not a flooring expert. I would definitely consult someone with more professional experience on something like that.
make a template and use a router next time.
Yeah, you might be able to cut the floors with a router. I don't think I will personally ever have a "next time" though.
Hello Cameron Bates, do you have an e-mail for contact.
Not at.all helpfull...This does not work using thinset..too thick!! The Transition surfaces will not flush out !
It's BS...didn't show squat...because
It doesnt work !! Surely Doesn't work for 5/8 and c ant work with 3/4
I assure you it did for me, my tile is perfectly flush with the hardwood. But it all depends on the thickness of your particular hardwood/tile/etc. Again, I used solid wood floors that are about 5/8" thick. Tile sits on 1/4" backer board. Got to measure your own materials though!
@@cjbates123
Nooo clueieless
@@cjbates123 IT DOES NOT WORK USING THIN SET...MATERIAL IS TOO THICK !!
Wow that's ugly af.
So’s you mom. :-)
Looks great