Great point about making sure wires aren’t pinched, bundled, or contacting anything they shouldn’t be. Just melted one of my downstream sensor wires after accidentally pinching and shorting it. Thankfully I tuned out post cat O2s. I did it when reinstalling the fuel filter guard. Great vid.
I'm glad you did a video on this, I have the same codes, I know i got a ton of coolant on the sensors when i did the cylinder head, rookie mistake, but i was planning on doing sensors this spring after the Midwest thaws out. This will be a good refresher before I attempt them! Pro tip-flashlight, might help with lighting the dark spots while filming!
yeah i thought about the flash light when i was editing this. TBH this whole video was shot at 6:00 AM before work as i had no other time to do it, and after work is already dark lol. nothing like doing a full DIY video before breakfast.
Downloaded inpa. First codes were lambda heater circuit bank 1 and bank 2. Gonna throw these sensors in and hope for the best. Glad you had a good video.
I couldn't bust the O2 free in that smaller space. ratchet was to long or to small and it's 115 degrees out today. Eff it. I'll try again in a month but I'm gonna loosen the mid pipe and move it off to the side.
@@M3NACE haha ahhh yea I know that much. It confused the hell out of me. I've read on forums that the rear connector (B1) is for cylinders 1-3 and the front (B2) for 4-6. Going to swap mine out but I'm too broke to replace both. All I know is I'm idling like shit and I have misfires on cylinders 1 and 2. And I have an error code for B1 O2 sensor. So I just gotta make sure I replace the right one lol
i’m so confused right now… doing this job on my car after p0130 and p0134 code showed up on my dash. never had an issues prior to this no lights on dash or nothing for months on end of driving. When I unplugged bank 1 and tracked it down it’s plugged into bank sensor 2 and bank 2 is plugged into bank sensor 1. want to just start by swapping the two banks but like I said I never had any issues for months. If they were plugged into the wrong banks wouldn’t an issue become apparent a long time ago?
Yeah bro nice piece... I see you use those sensors that you posted the link to how how those been working out for you? I seen use them on the the downstream side like I said to you last night I got the downstream problem with mine where the heater is gone (i suppose has every once in awhile for about the past two to three months I kept blowing a code for that if I let my car sit and idle for a little too long) and I'm not getting any detection out of it so I'm looking to replace them downstreams, I was looked you up for the downstream ones and seen that to use those ones you posted link to, you getting good results with those? You know you always hear that riff-raff about this and about that type of brand of O2 sensor so I was just wondering...
updated the link. I used the same link that i had when i did the downstream 02's and they were bosch, i guess amazon re-used that link for a different brand. 10/10 would recommend the bosch though, havent had any problems with them!
IMO that seems a little overkill, but it might work. i had no problem accessing the sensor through the control arm, but i have the body of a 6'2 pool noodle.
Thanks for this and your downstream video. Just replaced my downstreams out as I was getting P0141 and P0161 codes, think they were originals on a 98 M3. Had to drop the exhaust to get them out, they were so stuck in. One person standing on the exhaust while another used a heavy duty impact gun to shock the threads loose. One of the bolts on the manifold to midpipe was stuck and used an impact on it as well and didn't even think about it. After starting it back up, old codes were gone, but now I'm getting P0155, upstream on the pipe the impact was used on... Pretty sure it got ruined by the impact gun vibrations while trying to remove the stuck bolt. Question for replacing these, would they be easier to access and replace if I dropped the exhaust again? Seems like having the mid pipe out of the way would be really helpful.
You can get to them from underneath, i have a video for the upstreams. Use a penetrating oil, soak that good and let her sit for a few hours, should help
@@M3NACE yeah that's the one I'm commenting on after watching it. I'm asking if you think it would be easier, if they're not going to turn easily like yours did, even after soaking, to maybe drop the exhaust at the end of the manifold right after them to get it out of the way? Because yeah, I'm pretty sure all of mine are original, which sucks
@@basketcase77 i mean anything beyond that is going to suck. blowtorch, heat it up will give you a change. worst case you might be removing the manifolds and throwing them up on a vice.
You know what’s weird? I replaced the crank and cam position sensors when i was doing m50 manifold. The cam position sensor threw a code twice and then it stopped and never did it again. Was probably the old gas but i found it weird as i bought new oem sensors
Just did a head gasket on my 95 M50 and its still acting a little sluggish accellerating in the lower RPMs, No codes but retimed it two times and triple checked the vanos yet still its a little slow down in the low end and running rich ( M50 w/ S52 Cams + RKTunes ECU ).... There is no codes but its 150k miles and was leaking/burning coolant for a while so im gonna assume that o2 is semi shot regardless. No Misfires / No codes / idles pretty good but low rpm power is lacking.
M3NACE yeah fpr to back of intake mani, vc breather connector new and lines to intake boot and under intake mani iacv connector which is also new. Gotta be something dumb... slow up too 4000/4500-7 k rips great just outta the whole it’s slow... new dr vanos unit... more details here if u get bored www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2434452-Headgasket-changed-No-Start-(-possible-180%B0-off-on-timing-)-Questions&p=30539616#post30539616
M3NACE vanos unit didn’t come with a new solenoid but I could def try another... crank and cam sensors are original I’m assuming 1995 150k miles along with the O2 which I’m sure took a beating from the head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber... you think cam /crank sensor as well as vanos solonoid could not fail enough for a code but get lazy or not optimal maybe? Car cranked fine before head gasket but so many things were changed anything’s possible when this that old... thanks for the help so far
Ive had a bad idle on my 328i since i swapped it, ive changed MAF, plugs, intake gaskets, cleaned ICV, Checked CCV, changed both lambdas to NTKs and i cant seem to find a vac leak. ive also done a coil drop test but every cylinder seems to fire, above 1200 rpm its absolutely perfect but when its idling it just rumbles...feels like its missing(the car jerks at mid rpms only when cold and does this weird pulsing on start up since changing the MAF) i used to work at the dealership in the UK but their scanners recently have lost the ablity to scan.. they cannot not read any E36s or E39s. My car has the 20Pin round plug in the engine bay and does not have the OBD2 port. Im competent enough to change things, but i dont know what to look for! any advice XD?
does not have an OBD2 port? what year is it? if its 96+ it has one, it might be tucked away under the dash. I would put a vacuum gauge on it and see what the vacuum looks like at idle. when my cats went bad on my droptop you could only tell at idle, idled like dogshit but off idle ran perfectly. is the CEL on? stomp test?
@@M3NACE Its a 98, originally a 1.8, ive had the dash panel off many times, in Europe some cars after 96 didnt have the OBD2 Square port if they didnt have post CAT sensors, mine didnt, and neither did most E36s. My check engine light has never come on, its not a worded light on the euro clusters its just the yellow outline of an engine; i did a cluster test and no light came on, stomp test didnt work, i think cars after 95 dont have the stomp test. I checked the TPS and its resistance is perfect on both tests, this surging and jerking on cold has only come since changing the MAF but has made the car smoother overall. If the cats were blocked wouldn't i have issues at the top end? is it possible the idle control valve is just intermittent? its as if the second the car has to use it or at near idle rpms its just flicking open and shut.
@@323pwr Yes! since 2 years I've become somewhat of an expert on these, I bought a foxwell Nt530 with bmw software and it pointed me to bad vanos seals - which I rebuilt then more recently had to change the plunger that the solenoid bolts to.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great point about making sure wires aren’t pinched, bundled, or contacting anything they shouldn’t be. Just melted one of my downstream sensor wires after accidentally pinching and shorting it. Thankfully I tuned out post cat O2s. I did it when reinstalling the fuel filter guard. Great vid.
I'm glad you did a video on this, I have the same codes, I know i got a ton of coolant on the sensors when i did the cylinder head, rookie mistake, but i was planning on doing sensors this spring after the Midwest thaws out. This will be a good refresher before I attempt them!
Pro tip-flashlight, might help with lighting the dark spots while filming!
yeah i thought about the flash light when i was editing this. TBH this whole video was shot at 6:00 AM before work as i had no other time to do it, and after work is already dark lol. nothing like doing a full DIY video before breakfast.
@@M3NACE god damn bro! That's dedication. I don't even go that hard at work until about 8am lol
@@tylerhoeft8024 lmao 358 vid's and counting. RUclips channel's are a grind my dude!
@@M3NACE My dude.
Good afternoon Quinn Awesome detail 02 sensor video to help everybody with their emissions we all know California is very strict on that 🙄😏
James Cook Jr. 50/50 denatured alcohol and 91 octane mix on a low tank. Didn’t hear it from me, enjoy your perfect smog pass 😉
hey James! Cali is strict, but that doesnt stop us lol.
M3NACE yes and there is all was things you can do to get around it 😃
Downloaded inpa. First codes were lambda heater circuit bank 1 and bank 2. Gonna throw these sensors in and hope for the best. Glad you had a good video.
I couldn't bust the O2 free in that smaller space. ratchet was to long or to small and it's 115 degrees out today. Eff it. I'll try again in a month but I'm gonna loosen the mid pipe and move it off to the side.
My guy, @3:20, you pointed at the rear connector and called it bank 2. Isn't that bank 1?
Bank 1 is cyl 1-3, bank 2 is 4-6. I dont know which connector is which IMO but thats why i only do one at a time
@@M3NACE haha ahhh yea I know that much. It confused the hell out of me. I've read on forums that the rear connector (B1) is for cylinders 1-3 and the front (B2) for 4-6. Going to swap mine out but I'm too broke to replace both. All I know is I'm idling like shit and I have misfires on cylinders 1 and 2. And I have an error code for B1 O2 sensor. So I just gotta make sure I replace the right one lol
Yes correct it is the other way around. Put a note up or edit. It is counter intuitive.
i’m so confused right now… doing this job on my car after p0130 and p0134 code showed up on my dash. never had an issues prior to this no lights on dash or nothing for months on end of driving. When I unplugged bank 1 and tracked it down it’s plugged into bank sensor 2 and bank 2 is plugged into bank sensor 1. want to just start by swapping the two banks but like I said I never had any issues for months. If they were plugged into the wrong banks wouldn’t an issue become apparent a long time ago?
Nice! Thanks dude!
yessir!
Yeah bro nice piece... I see you use those sensors that you posted the link to how how those been working out for you? I seen use them on the the downstream side like I said to you last night I got the downstream problem with mine where the heater is gone (i suppose has every once in awhile for about the past two to three months I kept blowing a code for that if I let my car sit and idle for a little too long) and I'm not getting any detection out of it so I'm looking to replace them downstreams, I was looked you up for the downstream ones and seen that to use those ones you posted link to, you getting good results with those? You know you always hear that riff-raff about this and about that type of brand of O2 sensor so I was just wondering...
updated the link. I used the same link that i had when i did the downstream 02's and they were bosch, i guess amazon re-used that link for a different brand. 10/10 would recommend the bosch though, havent had any problems with them!
I have 1995 325i e36, I am so confused with my o2 sensor locations. Do I have two like yours or do I only have one ?
Also Quinn, would it be easier to undo the control arm lcab, and drop the control arm down to make more room?
IMO that seems a little overkill, but it might work. i had no problem accessing the sensor through the control arm, but i have the body of a 6'2 pool noodle.
@@M3NACE pool noodle !!!!! dead!
Hey have you ever had to change a hood cable before
Are the electrical connections for the o2 sensors on the same place with m50/s50?
Thanks for this and your downstream video. Just replaced my downstreams out as I was getting P0141 and P0161 codes, think they were originals on a 98 M3. Had to drop the exhaust to get them out, they were so stuck in. One person standing on the exhaust while another used a heavy duty impact gun to shock the threads loose. One of the bolts on the manifold to midpipe was stuck and used an impact on it as well and didn't even think about it. After starting it back up, old codes were gone, but now I'm getting P0155, upstream on the pipe the impact was used on... Pretty sure it got ruined by the impact gun vibrations while trying to remove the stuck bolt.
Question for replacing these, would they be easier to access and replace if I dropped the exhaust again? Seems like having the mid pipe out of the way would be really helpful.
You can get to them from underneath, i have a video for the upstreams. Use a penetrating oil, soak that good and let her sit for a few hours, should help
@@M3NACE yeah that's the one I'm commenting on after watching it. I'm asking if you think it would be easier, if they're not going to turn easily like yours did, even after soaking, to maybe drop the exhaust at the end of the manifold right after them to get it out of the way? Because yeah, I'm pretty sure all of mine are original, which sucks
@@basketcase77 removing the midpipe might make it marginally easier, id try with everything assembled and see how it goes
@@M3NACE thanks man, I will. Any recommendation is they're stuck even after a day or two of soaking?
@@basketcase77 i mean anything beyond that is going to suck. blowtorch, heat it up will give you a change. worst case you might be removing the manifolds and throwing them up on a vice.
You know what’s weird? I replaced the crank and cam position sensors when i was doing m50 manifold. The cam position sensor threw a code twice and then it stopped and never did it again. Was probably the old gas but i found it weird as i bought new oem sensors
yeah that is kind of funky, how long has it been?
@@M3NACE 2 weeks, hasn't come back! Good ole e36aritis!
So do you need 2 of the same o2 sensors or are they different? Do you have prt numbers?
They are the same!
@@M3NACE sweet thanks bro
@@M3NACE and is it the same for an m50? This looks like an s50/52
I replaced my upstream O2 sensors on my 1996 bmw 328i and its telling me that its not reading the correct voltage...do you know of any solutions?
Just did a head gasket on my 95 M50 and its still acting a little sluggish accellerating in the lower RPMs, No codes but retimed it two times and triple checked the vanos yet still its a little slow down in the low end and running rich ( M50 w/ S52 Cams + RKTunes ECU ).... There is no codes but its 150k miles and was leaking/burning coolant for a while so im gonna assume that o2 is semi shot regardless. No Misfires / No codes / idles pretty good but low rpm power is lacking.
hmm, vacuum lines and everything are run correctly?
M3NACE yeah fpr to back of intake mani, vc breather connector new and lines to intake boot and under intake mani iacv connector which is also new. Gotta be something dumb... slow up too 4000/4500-7 k rips great just outta the whole it’s slow... new dr vanos unit... more details here if u get bored www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2434452-Headgasket-changed-No-Start-(-possible-180%B0-off-on-timing-)-Questions&p=30539616#post30539616
@@quiksr20 did your new vanos unit come with a new solenoid? also, have you replaced your cam and crank sensors since you got the car?
M3NACE vanos unit didn’t come with a new solenoid but I could def try another... crank and cam sensors are original I’m assuming 1995 150k miles along with the O2 which I’m sure took a beating from the head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber... you think cam /crank sensor as well as vanos solonoid could not fail enough for a code but get lazy or not optimal maybe? Car cranked fine before head gasket but so many things were changed anything’s possible when this that old... thanks for the help so far
Plus now I’m asking more of everything with the new S52 cams and tune...
Ive had a bad idle on my 328i since i swapped it, ive changed MAF, plugs, intake gaskets, cleaned ICV, Checked CCV, changed both lambdas to NTKs and i cant seem to find a vac leak. ive also done a coil drop test but every cylinder seems to fire, above 1200 rpm its absolutely perfect but when its idling it just rumbles...feels like its missing(the car jerks at mid rpms only when cold and does this weird pulsing on start up since changing the MAF) i used to work at the dealership in the UK but their scanners recently have lost the ablity to scan.. they cannot not read any E36s or E39s. My car has the 20Pin round plug in the engine bay and does not have the OBD2 port. Im competent enough to change things, but i dont know what to look for! any advice XD?
does not have an OBD2 port? what year is it? if its 96+ it has one, it might be tucked away under the dash. I would put a vacuum gauge on it and see what the vacuum looks like at idle. when my cats went bad on my droptop you could only tell at idle, idled like dogshit but off idle ran perfectly. is the CEL on? stomp test?
@@M3NACE Its a 98, originally a 1.8, ive had the dash panel off many times, in Europe some cars after 96 didnt have the OBD2 Square port if they didnt have post CAT sensors, mine didnt, and neither did most E36s. My check engine light has never come on, its not a worded light on the euro clusters its just the yellow outline of an engine; i did a cluster test and no light came on, stomp test didnt work, i think cars after 95 dont have the stomp test. I checked the TPS and its resistance is perfect on both tests, this surging and jerking on cold has only come since changing the MAF but has made the car smoother overall. If the cats were blocked wouldn't i have issues at the top end? is it possible the idle control valve is just intermittent? its as if the second the car has to use it or at near idle rpms its just flicking open and shut.
@@TheKilli101 did you found your issue I got the problem atm
@@323pwr Yes! since 2 years I've become somewhat of an expert on these, I bought a foxwell Nt530 with bmw software and it pointed me to bad vanos seals - which I rebuilt then more recently had to change the plunger that the solenoid bolts to.
My car doesn’t have these? I just have 2 on the cat, e36 323i
I have a 96 328i. Would these exact sensors work for my car ? Up stream and downstream
yes
Hey what’s up I have the code p0160 and p0140 would you know which o2 is bad.
rears, I would replace both.
@@M3NACE thank you.
Those sensors say they don’t fit 1997 328i
Yeeet!!!
yeet my G!