Yeah man! Many thanks. All I remember from 1987 was quarter inch spinners on the face pitch. Thankfully it was kinda a bolt ladder at the crux. Looks like that has been cleaned up. The corner pitch is a poor man's Good Book. Nice work you two!
Rad climb and definitely inspirational! I especially appreciated the positive words of affirmation to your partner. We should all be so lucky to have a good climbing buddy at the other end of the rope who supports us and pushes us towards our true potential.
Thanks! Old memories for me - did this one in 1994. We did your "2nd" pitch in two pitches. Amazing fun dihedral. I remember on the approach you could see the chalk line up the face from pretty far out. LOL! We didn't have this nice small cam gear back then.
I flew from Norway to the US back in 1981, spent a month in Tuolumne together with a friend. At that time we got to climb a number of second and third ascents of brand new climbs, as well as a bunch of classics that the locals told us about. Our flash limit was around 11d, but we had a lot of fun on all those 5.10/5.11a/b routes as well. Down in the valley we just climbed for a couple of days, afair Quarter Domes might also be in that 5.10+ range, with lots of amazing pitches!
Best multi-pitch in Tuolumne, imo, though Lucky Streaks is very good too. But can't beat Serenity and Sons for the true Valley Classic as the cracks are so pure. Is one better than the other...can't answer that one. Take this lovely girl up Serenity/Sons and video it too please. I'd love to have a quality vid for an old man's memory of the FA.
Yes, this might be one of the best routes in Tuolumne. Did it back in 2009 in the morning, then did Regular Route on Fairview in the afternoon. Fun long day of climbing
For a rack we took 5 purple .5 cams for pitch 3. That pitch eats up that size. You are a badass that you placed your last piece below the last bulge 20 feet from the anchor.
Amazing route for sure especially if you link it to serrated edge or hobbit However, the east bud of El Capitan, the east Budrus of middle Cathedral, the north east Butches of higher Cathedral,Serenity crack to Sons of yesterday… there are many 5.10 routes on much more spectacular formations imho.
It has really good face and crack climbing in a magical setting which is why I always called it Oz like the Wizard of Oz because it deserves something better than the typical drug, sex, and rock and roll route names of the Yosemite climbers from that time period.
That 2ndpitch though! You are a true boss not stick clipping that 1st bolt onsight, and not having to aid two of those early bolts! You cut out your follower aiding those bolts, I'm guessing, haha. That 2nd pitch was my first 10+ attempt in the valley and it was nails down low! You are a Baller!!
Safety is waaay down the list. If safety was #1 you'd be lying in bed all day, never experiencing life, never doing great things AND someone would have to spend their life taking care of you.
You don’t know wtf you’re talkin’ about, go back to playing video games. I started climbing in 1970, so I know what I’m talkin’ about. Scared myself many times.
They are so back bro! I love mullets being back. They are at least funny. But moustaches are just fecking cheesy. And the climbing gym is full of fig jammers who think they look so cool rocking them.
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Yeah man! Many thanks. All I remember from 1987 was quarter inch spinners on the face pitch. Thankfully it was kinda a bolt ladder at the crux. Looks like that has been cleaned up. The corner pitch is a poor man's Good Book. Nice work you two!
Rad climb and definitely inspirational!
I especially appreciated the positive words of affirmation to your partner. We should all be so lucky to have a good climbing buddy at the other end of the rope who supports us and pushes us towards our true potential.
Thanks!
Old memories for me - did this one in 1994. We did your "2nd" pitch in two pitches. Amazing fun dihedral. I remember on the approach you could see the chalk line up the face from pretty far out.
LOL! We didn't have this nice small cam gear back then.
I flew from Norway to the US back in 1981, spent a month in Tuolumne together with a friend. At that time we got to climb a number of second and third ascents of brand new climbs, as well as a bunch of classics that the locals told us about. Our flash limit was around 11d, but we had a lot of fun on all those 5.10/5.11a/b routes as well.
Down in the valley we just climbed for a couple of days, afair Quarter Domes might also be in that 5.10+ range, with lots of amazing pitches!
Great videography and climbing skills! Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another epic video! Thanks for sharing exactly everything climbing is and should be. Great humor and great climbing!
Best multi-pitch in Tuolumne, imo, though Lucky Streaks is very good too. But can't beat Serenity and Sons for the true Valley Classic as the cracks are so pure. Is one better than the other...can't answer that one.
Take this lovely girl up Serenity/Sons and video it too please. I'd love to have a quality vid for an old man's memory of the FA.
Yes, this might be one of the best routes in Tuolumne. Did it back in 2009 in the morning, then did Regular Route on Fairview in the afternoon. Fun long day of climbing
Sooooooo sick thanks for the inspo
Yay new vid
For a rack we took 5 purple .5 cams for pitch 3. That pitch eats up that size. You are a badass that you placed your last piece below the last bulge 20 feet from the anchor.
Another fantastic video. Will have to check this route out when 5.10 Yosemite trad starts feeling like 5.10😂
Haven't done Oz yet, definitely on the list. But I'd say it would be hard to top the Serenity/Sons combo.. Amazing climb.
Amazing route for sure especially if you link it to serrated edge or hobbit However, the east bud of El Capitan, the east Budrus of middle Cathedral, the north east Butches of higher Cathedral,Serenity crack to Sons of yesterday… there are many 5.10 routes on much more spectacular formations imho.
this rig was dank!
That’s what I call a minimalist anchor
New Gravity Lab weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Youuuu know ittttt!!
supercool to have goprostick on your backpack. Did it work better than on you helmet?
It has really good face and crack climbing in a magical setting which is why I always called it Oz like the Wizard of Oz because it deserves something better than the typical drug, sex, and rock and roll route names of the Yosemite climbers from that time period.
360 view looks like you’re climbing a granite butt crack peach addition, and I like it.
That 2ndpitch though! You are a true boss not stick clipping that 1st bolt onsight, and not having to aid two of those early bolts! You cut out your follower aiding those bolts, I'm guessing, haha. That 2nd pitch was my first 10+ attempt in the valley and it was nails down low! You are a Baller!!
Follower here and no, I free climbed the whole route just like I do every time we climb together. You know what they say about assuming 😉
Nice, that stick wouldn’t work if you finish the gram traverse
Climbing the ass-cheek ridge..... 👍
You do realize that this climb was established sans cams and helmets.
Like if you call the route Oz and reply to my comment if you call the route Ounce
I'm so immature, i laughed at the 12 and half mark because it looks like you're prying open some cheeks.
Safety is waaay down the list. If safety was #1 you'd be lying in bed all day, never experiencing life, never doing great things AND someone would have to spend their life taking care of you.
You don’t know wtf you’re talkin’ about, go back to playing video games. I started climbing in 1970, so I know what I’m talkin’ about. Scared myself many times.
I don't want mustaches to come back. . . I really really really don't want to look at this things everywhere. . .
They are so back bro! I love mullets being back. They are at least funny. But moustaches are just fecking cheesy. And the climbing gym is full of fig jammers who think they look so cool rocking them.