$40 Chrysler Square Back Alternator 1-Wire Conversion Guide & New Brushes Install
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Many modified classic Mopars are converted to self-regulated one-wire charging systems. Unfortunately, many big output alternators are multi-field and aftermarket replacements can be pricey. So here's a cheapo conversion guide that will cost you $40 and a few minutes of your day. You're welcome.
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Thanks for this video, I am in the process of upgrading my alternator from a 60 amp to a 90 amp. I have electric fuel, fan, and water pump, my 60 amp drops to 12.4v while running those and the head lights, have been afraid my battery won't keep sufficient charge. I appreciate people like you making tutorials to aid other motor heads in keeping these old Mopar alive and thriving!
That’s awesome! Thanks for this comment - admittedly running everything on my Charger at once dropped the amps down to 12.6-12.7 at the stop lights but perked back up at rpm
You can also buy a bigger crank pulley to assist when the engine is at idle. I had to do both on my Charger
Awesome!! Really appreciate Mopar charging and ignition videos. Thank you
Glad you like them!
Good job and I like the charger. It definitely runs hard. 😮 I’ve alway wonder how one wire is set up in z car Thks Sir.
No problem 👍
Nice option, thanks Kevin, see you in Bowling Green.
Can't wait!
I've got an '89 Gran Fury with the Nippondenso & another I robbed off another (junked) one years back for "Just in case." Took the wiring & regulator as well, now on my '76 Valiant. This is kinda cool because my '69 Dart Swinger, which got a BB transplant back in '78-'79 from the original owner ('68 RR powertrain, the car came from him), and this will fit in with the "Looks stock to most people" vibe I'd like to do with it
Exactly! Great comment
Very good video. I wish you would have shown a little more close up of that brush replacement because I've never done that. Thanks
Yeah I probably should have - thankfully they’re VERY easy to swap out and if you ever have alternator fail it’s often these little guys!
Awesome video. Thanks for the how-to. Probably a dumb question, but why does that alternator need a separate ground connection? Doesn't it ground through the case/mount brackets?
Fair question: normally yes, you’d think so but you’ve got painted surfaces, dissimilar metals and uneven surfaces that lead to a weak ground. Nearly every single electrical issue I’ve had with a Mopar has been due to bad grounding.
@@moparconnection That makes sense. Thank you!
Really nice tutorial can I make the same alternator isdxternally ily regulated what about getting one of those two píns groung it
Thanks!
This part filmed in Mexico? I subscribed just because of that alone🙂. I used to work on old mopars decades ago now and lots of those old alternators so I loved this time travel for me clip! I have a one owner 68 B Body in my garage getting a refresh, updated power train, 440 upgrade etc. All but the paint by me so it’s a labour of love project. I’m looking forward to checking out all your other videos.
Attaboy! Keep up the good work and keep us posted on the progress!
what do you do with the existing wiring in the car when going from 3 wire to the 1 wire? just don't connect it?
Remove it
I made the cardinal sin of not disconnecting the battery and accidentally shorted the alternator output terminal screw to ground with a wrench when removing a plug. Experienced a spark. What could have gotten damaged as a result? I am not measuring the expected voltage drops across the ignition coil, making me think I have no current flowing due to an incomplete circuit. Could the ground of the alternator been damaged?
It’s really hard to tell without being there to test things first hand.
I realize that, but any suggestions on what to test would be very helpful. @@moparconnection
Can you use that with your regular on the firewall
No. It replaces the regulator
Thanks Love Your Show
This set up does not have the temperature regulator feature of the external regulator.
They can cook your battery.
Not true in many (NOT all) cases. The modern regulator shown here and others used for the 110amp upgrade do incorporate this "overload" feature. Even @deaddodgegarage did a video demonstrating how a stock wiring system can "cook your battery" with a shunt wire. Modern electronics > factory wiring.
Just did this and the alternator gets very hot to the touch quickly any help please
Hmm that’s not supposed to happen
Was able to run it about 20 min and stayed the same temp guess it’s the heat from the headers it charges 13.3-14 v
I cant find the regulator on ebay, will you help me?
If it’s not up then it might not be available from that ONE vendor anymore.
Happen to have a link to the ebay reg and brush you used? Looks like quite a few options. Thanks for the vid.
Dude we literally show you the eBay listing at 1:01. You can type it in to the search bar. (And the brushes are for sale at Advance Auto.)
@moparconnection missed it the first time through and wasn't sure about the brushes. Good video. Thanks.
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Kevin gets pulled over by the local Block watch person...Kevin ."Hey, you don't have a badge"... Person that pulled Kevin over... "Si, We don't need any stink'en badges" Then proceeds to club Kevin in the head with his billy-club! 🤕
Actually, many of the local PD are personal pals. I’m never leaving this place!
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Test made in Mexico….. 😂😂😂😂😂👍🏻🤘🏻
😉 If you know you know
Your light makes it so you can't see the details you are trying to show us. It was visible before the light was shinning on it.
Sorry
y do th mod . my stock unit has allways worked fine
Clearly if your car isn't modified then this doesn't apply.
So you would rather support the CCP?
Why would we support the Community College of Pennsylvania?
@@moparconnection Communist Chinese Party! That's what 440 Source is
Ha ha! 1. No they aren’t. And 2. name a US company NOT using foreign tooling, materials or components. The US foolishly sent all of its manufacturing overseas for slave wages or to appease EPA fascists.