For the seiko 5, you can wind it, btw. It was only the skx or old 7s26 movement, where you will have to do the seiko shuffle. Love the videos!! Keep them coming!
Kinda disappointed by the missing knowledge here. He could have easily tried and should instantly feel if it's possible to wind the mainspring or not. You don't even need to know the movement inside...
@@SinnerAndSaint mmm I don't think it's as much "missing knowledge" as it's the 5kx's are below the level of Seiko he fux with, If it was a 62mas/Turtle/Sumo/etc he wouldn't have hesitated to wind it. (I believe)
FYI to get accurate amplitude reading you need to set the lift angle for that specific movement. Note that not all manufacturers publish the lift angles for their movements. Also, just get a cheap demagnetizer. They cost less than 20 £/$/€ and within 10sec you can fix a magnetized watch.
This is easy. If you’ve purchased your watch within the last 15 years you do Not need to service at any set intervals especially if the watch is not worn everyday and is part of a larger rotation. Newer watches use synthetic oils that do not gunk up, degrade, or evaporate like older mineral oils. Periodically check them on a timegrapher and if the amplitude is between 230-315, small beat error, not running too fast or too slow then there is absolutely No reason to submit the watch to an intervention that may ultimately introduce issues that were not originally there.
I completely agree. I have a Seamaster and due to the coaxial escapement I'm just going to wear it until it starts losing or gaining time excessively. The only other logical reason to service regularly is the waterproof seals might need replacing.
More than one experienced salesperson told me over the past 30 years: As long as it runs within a couple of seconds a day, let it run, it’s fine. This was reg Rolex watches and in the 90s and 2000s
@@Mark-lj1dj Agree... Run it till it stops. The only reason to service is to put in new seals if you want to go swimming. My Seamaster is 16 years old, never serviced and keeps perfect time.
That’s my attitude. Serviced my Rolex GMTII after 6 years and after it came back the hour hand started dragging the dial a bit and left a fine mark. Took a while to notice. After that was fixed I waited until the crown started getting stuck and the watch stopped running. That was 20 years later. I have 8 self winding watches that I treat the same way. A 2006 Submariner and 2008 Daytona that have never been serviced, run as good as the day I bought them. I don’t dive with my mechanical watches so no worries about the seal not keeping the water out at 200m depth. At $600-$1500 for servicing I better have a good reason. As far as accuracy, if they’re running within spec I’m happy. Besides, if I need to know to the second what time it is I use my phone.
When measuring a watch’s stats on a Timegrapher, there are three things you need to remember. 1) Don’t do on an absolutely full wind. If you’ve been wearing it all day, let it wind down a bit for half an hour. 2) Lift angle. It can affect the results of the measure, and can vary between 42 degrees (Vostok movements) and 56.5 (old Seiko 5). Lift angels are usually available online, and worth setting. 3) Accuracy by itself doesn’t tell you much. Important stats are beat error and amplitude. It is possible to regulate even fifty or sixty year old movements in good condition to be +-10 seconds a day, but always let your watchmaker do the hard bit. And always remember; just because it says one thing on the Timegrapher, your accuracy may be vastly different wearing every day.
Glad somebody mentioned lift angle, the lift angle for a coaxial is in the 30s somewhere if I remember correctly. This can definitely change the readings
You'll love it. I have the white dial featured here and I really can't fault it. I daily it and check it against my laptop regularly and in the real world it gains about a second or so each day. I usually set it 15 seconds slow and when it gets to about 30 seconds fast I reset it. It's the best watch on the market right now for my money. Plus the coaxial escapement means it shouldn't require servicing very often at all.
Correct. The lift angle is highly important for reading the correct amplitude. You can simply look it up via Google which will lead you to the well known calibre / movement websites that will display the correct lift angle for each movement.
Yeah, I was disappointed to see that Adrian does not seem to be aware of those two points. Also, measure the watch in different positions. Don't just measure in the dial up position because you may get misleading results. At the very least, measure by simulating the positions of a right-handed person wearing the watch on their left hand (crown down & crown left). Then you can take the average of all the readings.
A really interesting insight, thank you for putting the time into this film. I have my own timegrapher and tried a similar experiment myself a couple of years ago. I immediately found that what the timegrapher displays in static conditions (regardless of position) varied massively from what I witnessed when wearing any particular watch over several days. For example, my Tudor Black Bay 36 (older version, ETA movement) showed around +/-3sec a day in various positions on the Timegrapher, but would be about -30sec off after wearing it for a week, while my trusty Seiko SKX would show massive variation on the Timegrapher (anything from +20sec a day to -30sec a day, depending on position) yet would be off my no more than 10sec when worn on the wrist. I’ve since migrated to wearing mainly CWC quartz watches, and Grand Seikos with 9F movements. Problem solved! Keep well :-)
I've the same seamaster 300m (in black). This watch is just incredible. It has been hit, went throught airport, near industrial motor with big magnetisism.. and still + 0s/day for years... An unbreakable awsome watch !
I purchased an Explorer 1016 new in 1986 and it consistently gained 7 seconds per day (checked by the "beep" on the radio for the correct time). After about 8 years I had it serviced by Rolex when the crown threads began to fail (I would reset it daily). It came back gaining 4 seconds per day. Now my daughter has it - I suspect in a box. Good vid. Keep at it.
You indeed need to set the lift angle for an accurate amplitude reading. However, not all manufacturers publish the lift angle for their movements. The watchmaker should (and probably does) know this, he was likely only showing owners the rate and beat error to give a quick insight.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Co-Axial movement seems like the cheapest way to get a well-made, decently good looking, interestingly-engineered, and reliable mechanical movement
I agree. Due to it being frictionless it needs virtually no oil. George Daniels said that if you get it serviced every 20 years it should keep good time for 400 years. I couldn't invest in a nice watch if it didn't have the coaxial 🤷♂️ so I guess I'm limited to modern Omegas.
Note that Tudor’s new movements are also METAS certified and are cheaper than Omega. I’m a huge Omega fan but time will tell about how reliable and accurate Tudor’s are over the long term
I am a massive fan of Omega’s coaxial movement. I think it represents a leap forward in modern horology . However, my most recent purchase is a BB58 and the movement is very accurate with a nice PR for a traditional movement.
@@Antenox They're both COSC, METAS, and master chronometer certified from manufacturers with an incredible track record. I would just say that I personally love geeking out about the co-axial escapement and the ability to see the movements in even many of the dive watches. The BB and Pelagos are crazy value for the price though
Great video 👌🏻 I sold my Sub date and bought a Planet ocean because the Rolex kept horrific time from new and took a mark at the slightest touch. My Omega hasn’t skipped a beat in 10 years and is in tip top condition 👍🏻
I’m confused as to why he said the vintage Omega is more accurate than the Seiko 5 when the Omega was +26s/day and the Seiko was +0s/day. Wouldn’t 0s be dead on accurate?
Even the lift angle was wrong for the most watches. With seiko you must wear the watch. 1 got 18 seikos the each runs ca 3 sek a day only the marine Master Run with 8 + but 5 jears always the same. The New roles 3235 New perfekt after half jear 20 sek -. The tudors New 0sek. After 2 jears -4. For the mony you pay is seiko king. Pay the same with grand seiko as a rolex it runs 1 sek a week+ after 2 jears.
Yeah when I heard him say this, I stopped watching as his watch knowledge and memory recall is so poor. Maybe he's tons of knowledge about his more expensive watches but I didn't stay to find out. Awful video.
He was probably thinking about the stated accuracy of the 4R movements. Seiko state their accuracy as -20 to +40 sec/day; however, that doesn't mean they can't be regulated to be more accurate; it's just means that Seiko aren't committed to regulating them to a very tight margin. They are mass producing these movements and don't want to deal with high number of warranty claims. That being said he's comparing apples to oranges here, he's dismissing the measured accuracy of the Seiko and instead comparing the stated accuracy of the Seiko to the measured accuracy of the Omega. As many have pointed out, it's just a sloppy video all around, and as much as I like Adrian's content, I think he needs to be called out for a low effort video.
Thanks for your video, I also own an Omega Seamaster Professional Bond watch and am amazed by the accuracy, I’ve had it for 3 years now and wear it daily. Last fall I monitored it over 3 months and was amazed how accurate the movement is.
You monitored a watch for 3 months? Do you also enjoy watching your nails grow? How about dust collect at the corner where the wall meets the floor? How about tumble weed…
@@michaelriera6277 I’m an engineer and I wanted to measure the accuracy of this movement, I compared it daily to an atomic clock and recorded the variations in my log. I was surprised how accurate this movement is for a mechanical watch.
Picked up a AMZWATCH's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
The amplitude readings may not be correct, as it depends on the lift angle specific to the movement. Not all movements have lift angle of 52 degrees. For example, Omega 8800 caliber has the lift angle of 36 degrees.
Especially on coaxial escapements though, the amplitude reading is always off. I think it needs a special kind of TG to get an accurate reading of the amplitude for this movement.
Love this video. No one talks about accuracy. Thank you Adrian. I’d like to see real life stats… I set my Omega SMP 300 to the World clock (time.is) every few months when I travel and change time zones. It’s about +1-2 seconds a WEEK. Amazing. I found that if I set it face up at night and wind it every 4-5 days it’s almost perfect. Plus it’s a strap monster. Looks good on rubber, original and mesh bracelets, Nato and even leather.
Any SMPc is an awesome everyday watch. I've had my 2012-2017 black lacquered dial one for seven years and counting. It looks stunning, it's accurate and well-made.
A timegrapher is a good way to get a suggested baseline for accuracy. What it "should" be performing at. However, using an app to keep track of the watch actually in use with all the movements, temperatures and whatever you normally put it through would be the best judge of actual accuracy. Makes for an interesting comparison between what timegrapher tells you in static position(s) and what actual practical usage on the wrist does.
Picked up a MAMACOO's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
Having had quite a few Omega coaxials, I can attest that their coaxial movements are the real deal. Particularly over extended service intervals. These watches stay as good as new after exceeding the 6th or 7th year after service.
I have a Longines Heritage which I kept wound for 120 days. I wore it most days. I never reset the time in that period. It varied slightly out of COSC ranges, but at the end of 120 days, it was a net 3 seconds fast. You can't beat that.
Adrian, the amplitude reading of your Omega is horribly off because you did not set the lift angle. You kept it at the default of 52 degrees. But it should be set at 36 degrees for the Omega. Also, your Omega has a co-axial movement so your regular timegraph can't get an accurate amplitude reading even if the lift angle is set to 36 degrees. You need a different timegrapher for co-axial escapements to get a truly accurate reading.
I think the 1900 has some separate circuitry for reading Co-Ax's and that's why he is seeing the sudden amplitude change, its recognizing it and changing the reading. I'm not saying it's accurate and of course you are right about the lift angle but mine does the same.
Interesting to see how a timegrapher works, it was just a bit of fun and nice to see a broad variance of watches from old to new. Nice to see you have had your Explorer II repaired after breaking the glass whilst on a trip out. Looking forward to seeing how the watch comes back.
Video's like this always cause a little smile to form on my face. I love my mechanical watches for what they are....works of engineering artwork, and many times, pieces of history. But when I talk or think about accuracy, a mechanical watch is never a part of the conversation. My Bulova Lunar Pilot, and even a $70 AliExpress Seiko homage watch I bought on a whim would decimate any of the mechanical watches on your table (or mine) when it comes to pure accuracy with their Seiko VK Quartz movements. And because they're quartz they require no winding and almost no service. Your Omega (and my red dial Aqua Terra) are gorgeous and something to aspire to own, but again, not based on their accuracy. And let's be honest, how many of us wear a mechanical watch enough week to week to keep the movement going anyway. So if you're likely to have to reset it when you do get around to wearing it, who cares how accurate it really is. Just my $.02.
I bought a timegrapher with the intention of using it to determine whether or not my watches need servicing. Some of my watches that have passed the ‘service-due-‘date are running extremely well so, it’s saving me money!
As long as you’re not using the same watch everyday then you can really stretch out the service interval especially if the watch is relatively new (less than 15 years). The best part is you’ll be keeping the watch intact from the manufacturer longer without running the risk of opening it and potentially introducing issues that weren’t there in the first place.
Hey, I think that having a habit of servicing a watch is a must for a true watch lover! Using a watch that is not serviced for more than 10 years is going to wear out metal inside watch movement and will over time render a watch inaccurate or even worse produce major movement damage... Second thing is the joy you have if you have vintage watches - to see a watch half a century old freshly serviced spot on +/- 1 sec a day is something special... Those old timepieces were made without computers and 3D models and without modern CNC machines, but they only need a little oil to run smooth as silk
I've only been into watch collecting for a few years and started out with Seiko's, 4R36 and 6r35 and moved onto Swiss watch movements sellita sw200 and ETA's 2824 . Admittedly the low end of the watch hierarchy. But the Seiko's across the board are between 0 to 5+ seconds a day, and the swiss 10 + -20+ a day. I'd love an Omega one day.
Go Omega! I have tried testing my Aqua terra (2023 small seconds) vs my Explorer 40 (2024) on accuracy by setting both Hour/Minute hands and second hand on the exact same time. After 1 week of using them, they kept the same time. I was planning to try more than 30days of testing to really see the results, but thanks to your video and the timegrapher machine, did it in a few minutes. Surprised with the Seiko sports because mine runs late, but even more surprised with the Sub results of +13secs!! Omega Metas certificate is no joke, results are 0/+5sec/day. you would never be late!
got my 39mm with the white dial on the 3-link "Bader" bracelet watch on MaMaCoo 3 weeks ago and am loving it to pieces. Absolute fantastic watch that wears super comfortable on my 6.75 inch wrist. Chose the 3-link over the 5-link bracelet for the toolless quick adjustment. Way more comfortable than my Longines Hydroconquest 41 mm.
The watches start at a low amplitude and then kick up because the movement has to add momentum to the amplitude on each swing, so it takes a minute to get to full amplitude. For instance if you and a friend are on a swing set, it's very hard to just give someone one push and get them to 180°, where the ropes of the swing are parallel to the ground. But by giving a little push each time the person goes by you can easily get them there.
I have to say I am a bit of a nerd when it comes to watch accuracy, which you really shouldn’t be with mechanical watches! Though I don’t use a Timegrapher I set it in the morning, wear as usual for a day and check 24hrs later against my reference time (phone). This gives you a much more realistic reading. My most accurate being my Tudor Ranger with the latest movement that seriously sits at +/-0.5 spd. My Black Bay 58 at -1spd, Rolex OP at +4spd, latest model Speedy at +2spd and the worst being my 2007 Seamaster running at -6spd. Not that I’ve checked them at all!😜
I have my dad’s Omega that is exactly like your grandfather’s DeVille…even on the same type strap. I had my local Omega/Rolex guy service it a couple of years ago. I wear it every couple of weeks. Keeps great time.
You can track the Co-axial movement back to 1980 when George Daniel’s patented it.. of all the brands he too it too.. Omega chose to use it and worked with him to integrate it into the watches… that’s why the movement is so kick ass… it goes way back to one of the finest horologists and watch makers of the current era.. and only Roger Smith has been honoured to fallow in his footsteps.. awesome video Mr Barker.. Always wanted to know how these flipping machines actually worked 😎
I've got a Rolex GMT Master II, but if I want to know the time with zero error, I have a Casio Wave Ceptor. It gets the exact time every night from WWV via radio signal. I think I paid about $70 for it 20 years ago. It's also solar, no batteries, no winding. Actually, it does gain 1 second in about 20 hours, but it's corrected automatically each night.
This video was your best yet! While I am seriously, seriously happy with my Black Bay 54. One day I'll own an Omega, for the movement alone. Top tier watch making, that's AD accessible and without the status hype shenanigans. Grail worthy stuff. Keep the content coming Adrian 😊 P.S. BB54 accuracy = Worn -1 sec/day. Stored overnight face down +1 sec so can be nigh bang on.
Omega 8800 family of movements are rockstars no surprises at all. My Raily has an 8806 easily the best modern day movement in a modern watch I can think of.
A great and really informative video - my most accurate watch is a 2022 40mm Longines Legend Diver that is accurate to about 1-2 seconds/day. Even my two Rolexes and a Montblanc cannot match that. Cheers, Chas T
Been watching your videos for a while now and was inspired to start a collection. Started with the MAMACOO, its specs for price and clean looks, now am looking for a dress watch to add.
Oof! The way you just chucked that rootbeer down on that table made me gasp. 😁 My two Omega SMP's; one full Sedna & the other the black dial two-tone both run at between +1-2 sec/day. My Rolex YM 40 two-tone black dial runs at 0/day (over ~6 weeks, worn everyday when I first bought it) & my two-tone Tudor BB GMT "rootbeer" is running at -1. My two "dailies" - Bremont H1 Fury blue -2 per day & Tudor Coke +2 secs. My CW's: two original LE Bel Cantos & C60 Chrono...no idea!
Adrian, the Weishi 1900 is capable of handling coaxial movements like the Omega 8800. You need to set the lift angle correctly to have the correct amplitude (anything beyond 320° is too much). To adjust the lift angle press the red button once to stop the measurement then press 'menu/speaker' twice and adjust the value via the up/down keys. For the 8800 you want to set it at 36°. Press the red button again to restart the measurement. ;-)
4R36 do have manual winding. If you're shaking it around like that all the time, maybe that's why the beat error is horrendous? 😅 Anything beat error above 0.4ms needs attention. Also, amplitude readings are not correct unless you input the different lift angles (L.A.) for the different calibres. And regular timegraphers are not able to correctly interpret coaxial calibre amplitudes.
One thing to pay attention to when testing amplitude of watches, is the lift angle. The lift angle only changes the amplitude measurement and I believe on the Omega 8800 it is 36 degrees. A 346 degree amplitude is too high and to be expected when measuring with a 52 degree lift angle. I would try the seamaster again at a 36 and see what it says! Also some Timegrapher a have a special measuring mode for the coaxial escapement so I would also look to see if your has that! Cheers great video!
I have the Omega NTTD and Tudor BB58 GMT. My Omega averages + 0.5 sec/day. Last 3 days, I had 0 sec +/- While my Tudor averages + 2.8 sec a day over the last 3 weeks. Both within METAS specs, but Omega deviates a lot less. Being in the military, accurate time is important. I would zero my watch before a mission or major training exercise. Wish the Omega Ti NTTD is fixed lug, 8906 movement (jumping hour hand), Gladiator hands, and grippier bezel. Love the size, Illum., wearability, and thinness. This can be the future MilSub/Mil SMP. Just need to tweak it a little for combat use.
COSC and METAS are mere snapshots of a watches accuracy at the time of certification. 99.9% of watches use a lever escapement, so it's this, that causes the issue. The lever escapement requires oil to function because of sliding friction. These oils deteriorate over time, thus affecting long-term accuracy. This is why they have rate issues. The co-axial on the other hand, will keep its chronometer rating, because of the escapement design. This escapement uses a pushing action, so contact friction is significantly reduced. Therefore oiling is less of a concern.
Great video！I also brought a timegrapher and found it pretty handy for occasionally checking which one might need a service among my collection. One thing got me super curious 5:46 that you mentioned the Rolex 3000 movement has a “soft” manual winding system. Would love to learn more about which watches or movements have the same issue, and which are strong enough to take frequent manual winding. I manually wind my watch quite often due to not being super active when wearing my mechanical watches.
No need to manually wind. Simply gently shake back and forth, right to left, up and down for 45-60 seconds and it will be equivalent to 30 manual winds.
Interesting. I am someone who does consider the movements within a watch when buying one. I wonder how a Tudor METAS movement would do after time. Not surprised by the Omega as they've been doing METAS for a while to have their movement process very refined.
This is a very nice video. I look forward to seeing your Explorer all sorted out, I hope you took a video of its repair journey. I wait for my watches to "fail" before having a service. *Time is relative, just like watch accuracy.
@BarkandJack, The Weishi timegraphers glitch a bit at first with Omega Co-Axials, because it uses a different release system. Thats why you have this weird reading at first.
Nice video, as always. But, to the vintage Seamaster... you can't "overwind" a watch. It's impossible. The mainspring wraps around the arbor in the barrel and then it is that. When it is fully wound there just isn't anymore slack to tighten. "Overwound" watches are a term that means a movement which no longer runs and has a fully wound mainspring. This can be a broken balance staff, or a gummed up movement, etc. But it's not "overwound". Just wind your manual watches until they are fully wound and go on with your day. As long as you're not taking a vice grip to the crown you'll be fine.
My suggestion too. Older timegraphers can't deal with co-axial movements. They simply can't hear the used to "tick" - sound and therefore jump with the amplitude. But the lift angle should be precisely set to the correct value for the specific movement.
I recently received a new Rolex Datejust. I wore it for 61 days straight, day and night. It gained 18 seconds. So that's .295 seconds per day. I never had a watch this accurate and that test really takes into consideration differences in accuracy based on variable positions like case down, 3 down, 12 down, etc.
Great video, I really enjoyed it! Do you also experience with your IWC Mark XX that you have to wind it fairly a lot to get it running? Sometimes I have to wind my Mark XX for around 20-30 times before it starts running.
The omega amplitude jumps up because that time Grapher can't measure amplitude for coaxial movements. You need a special, more high end one, to measure coaxial amplitude
Thanks mate. LA is lift angel, each movement has a slightly different lift angle, but the vast majority of modern watches are 52 degrees. And I couldn’t find lift angles for the vintage watches so I left it.
Interesting video is very important the accuracy of a watch. If all watches were COSC classified it will be a more accurate test. Christopher Ward, which I have one of is COSC classified, it’s the C60 tide ,it gains and loses half a second a day. The Christopher Ward in this video is not COSC classified. If a watch was gaining 20 seconds a day. I would sent it straight back.
Thank you very much. Very informative video. I would like to ask you, two questions. Should we keep our automatic watches in winding boxes? If so do you have any recommendation? Could you recommend a book to learn more about watches? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Cheers!
My 2021 Omega Diver300 and especially my Planet Ocean is the most accurate movement I had have, much more accurate than any Rolex I have owned. If I take my Planet Ocean on a holiday, wearing it 10 hours a day, it will be offset by 1 second in a week, its crazy!
Actually, all your watches (except Kermit, may be, but nothing terrible) performed really well. Congrats, Adrian! Even Seiko did perform better than I expected. The watch that surprised me the most is the Explorer, which performed fantastically after been worn all these years.
For the seiko 5, you can wind it, btw. It was only the skx or old 7s26 movement, where you will have to do the seiko shuffle. Love the videos!! Keep them coming!
I was gonna make this comment, the 4R36 can be manually wound
Ya very weird that he said he can’t wind it
Nerds unite! I was gonna say the same thing! 😂
Kinda disappointed by the missing knowledge here. He could have easily tried and should instantly feel if it's possible to wind the mainspring or not. You don't even need to know the movement inside...
@@SinnerAndSaint mmm I don't think it's as much "missing knowledge" as it's the 5kx's are below the level of Seiko he fux with, If it was a 62mas/Turtle/Sumo/etc he wouldn't have hesitated to wind it. (I believe)
FYI to get accurate amplitude reading you need to set the lift angle for that specific movement. Note that not all manufacturers publish the lift angles for their movements.
Also, just get a cheap demagnetizer. They cost less than 20 £/$/€ and within 10sec you can fix a magnetized watch.
I was hoping someone would bring that up.
You can manually wind that Seiko 5, it has the relatively new 4R36. Any Seiko 5 with that new "superman" logo has it.
This is easy. If you’ve purchased your watch within the last 15 years you do Not need to service at any set intervals especially if the watch is not worn everyday and is part of a larger rotation. Newer watches use synthetic oils that do not gunk up, degrade, or evaporate like older mineral oils. Periodically check them on a timegrapher and if the amplitude is between 230-315, small beat error, not running too fast or too slow then there is absolutely No reason to submit the watch to an intervention that may ultimately introduce issues that were not originally there.
I completely agree. I have a Seamaster and due to the coaxial escapement I'm just going to wear it until it starts losing or gaining time excessively. The only other logical reason to service regularly is the waterproof seals might need replacing.
More than one experienced salesperson told me over the past 30 years: As long as it runs within a couple of seconds a day, let it run, it’s fine. This was reg Rolex watches and in the 90s and 2000s
@@Mark-lj1dj Agree... Run it till it stops. The only reason to service is to put in new seals if you want to go swimming. My Seamaster is 16 years old, never serviced and keeps perfect time.
That’s my attitude. Serviced my Rolex GMTII after 6 years and after it came back the hour hand started dragging the dial a bit and left a fine mark. Took a while to notice. After that was fixed I waited until the crown started getting stuck and the watch stopped running. That was 20 years later. I have 8 self winding watches that I treat the same way. A 2006 Submariner and 2008 Daytona that have never been serviced, run as good as the day I bought them. I don’t dive with my mechanical watches so no worries about the seal not keeping the water out at 200m depth. At $600-$1500 for servicing I better have a good reason. As far as accuracy, if they’re running within spec I’m happy. Besides, if I need to know to the second what time it is I use my phone.
When measuring a watch’s stats on a Timegrapher, there are three things you need to remember.
1) Don’t do on an absolutely full wind. If you’ve been wearing it all day, let it wind down a bit for half an hour.
2) Lift angle. It can affect the results of the measure, and can vary between 42 degrees (Vostok movements) and 56.5 (old Seiko 5). Lift angels are usually available online, and worth setting.
3) Accuracy by itself doesn’t tell you much. Important stats are beat error and amplitude.
It is possible to regulate even fifty or sixty year old movements in good condition to be +-10 seconds a day, but always let your watchmaker do the hard bit. And always remember; just because it says one thing on the Timegrapher, your accuracy may be vastly different wearing every day.
Glad somebody mentioned lift angle, the lift angle for a coaxial is in the 30s somewhere if I remember correctly. This can definitely change the readings
Can you please elaborate 3?
I didn't get why Seiko which had 0s/day(but beat error 1 ms) was not the best.
+ Temperature must be around 28°C
@@WilliamSunderland 36 degrees if memory serves me correctly.
im so glad that the Omega Seamaster 300 came on top! im planning on getting one this September for my birthday! thanks for the great content Adrian!
congratulations!
Mine has been +2 since I bought it new. It hasn't lost a single second in years. It really is reliable
You'll love it. I have the white dial featured here and I really can't fault it. I daily it and check it against my laptop regularly and in the real world it gains about a second or so each day. I usually set it 15 seconds slow and when it gets to about 30 seconds fast I reset it. It's the best watch on the market right now for my money. Plus the coaxial escapement means it shouldn't require servicing very often at all.
I just got to seaweed and I haven’t stopped wearing it/appreciating it since getting it. You’re going to love it
My master chronometer omega runs at +1 second a week
You know what's sad? I found this video absolutely riveting. I'm hopeless. Great video, Adrian. Thank you.
My Omega Aqua Terra does the same thing. It is the most accurate watch in my collection. Bulletproof!
Adrian, two things: 1) lift angle, and 2) the 4R inside the Seiko can be hand wound.
Correct. The lift angle is highly important for reading the correct amplitude. You can simply look it up via Google which will lead you to the well known calibre / movement websites that will display the correct lift angle for each movement.
Yeah, I was disappointed to see that Adrian does not seem to be aware of those two points.
Also, measure the watch in different positions. Don't just measure in the dial up position because you may get misleading results. At the very least, measure by simulating the positions of a right-handed person wearing the watch on their left hand (crown down & crown left). Then you can take the average of all the readings.
He said it would take far too long to test each watch in 5 positions and I think he is correct…
@JonathanCho-ni4bv he literally said why he isn't doing that...
@@patrickjean-philippe7679 It's 6 positions - dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down, crown left, crown right. So he's even more wrong.
A really interesting insight, thank you for putting the time into this film.
I have my own timegrapher and tried a similar experiment myself a couple of years ago. I immediately found that what the timegrapher displays in static conditions (regardless of position) varied massively from what I witnessed when wearing any particular watch over several days. For example, my Tudor Black Bay 36 (older version, ETA movement) showed around +/-3sec a day in various positions on the Timegrapher, but would be about -30sec off after wearing it for a week, while my trusty Seiko SKX would show massive variation on the Timegrapher (anything from +20sec a day to -30sec a day, depending on position) yet would be off my no more than 10sec when worn on the wrist.
I’ve since migrated to wearing mainly CWC quartz watches, and Grand Seikos with 9F movements. Problem solved!
Keep well :-)
I've the same seamaster 300m (in black). This watch is just incredible. It has been hit, went throught airport, near industrial motor with big magnetisism.. and still + 0s/day for years... An unbreakable awsome watch !
I purchased an Explorer 1016 new in 1986 and it consistently gained 7 seconds per day (checked by the "beep" on the radio for the correct time). After about 8 years I had it serviced by Rolex when the crown threads began to fail (I would reset it daily). It came back gaining 4 seconds per day. Now my daughter has it - I suspect in a box. Good vid. Keep at it.
The lift angle needs to be movement specific and not just set at 52
Agree
The watchmaker that was there on the night wasn’t too fussed about the lift angle being changed.
I would imagine he would know better.
You indeed need to set the lift angle for an accurate amplitude reading. However, not all manufacturers publish the lift angle for their movements.
The watchmaker should (and probably does) know this, he was likely only showing owners the rate and beat error to give a quick insight.
@@MarkvanVaals That may well be the case.
Yep. That might explain the strange amplitude behavior on the Omega. Lift angle is either 36 or 38 degrees on that one.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Co-Axial movement seems like the cheapest way to get a well-made, decently good looking, interestingly-engineered, and reliable mechanical movement
I agree. Due to it being frictionless it needs virtually no oil. George Daniels said that if you get it serviced every 20 years it should keep good time for 400 years. I couldn't invest in a nice watch if it didn't have the coaxial 🤷♂️ so I guess I'm limited to modern Omegas.
Note that Tudor’s new movements are also METAS certified and are cheaper than Omega. I’m a huge Omega fan but time will tell about how reliable and accurate Tudor’s are over the long term
I am a massive fan of Omega’s coaxial movement. I think it represents a leap forward in modern horology . However, my most recent purchase is a BB58 and the movement is very accurate with a nice PR for a traditional movement.
@@Antenox They're both COSC, METAS, and master chronometer certified from manufacturers with an incredible track record. I would just say that I personally love geeking out about the co-axial escapement and the ability to see the movements in even many of the dive watches. The BB and Pelagos are crazy value for the price though
Technically the ‘co-axial movement’ isn’t a thing but rather a component within the movement
Great video 👌🏻 I sold my Sub date and bought a Planet ocean because the Rolex kept horrific time from new and took a mark at the slightest touch. My Omega hasn’t skipped a beat in 10 years and is in tip top condition 👍🏻
You know? This is quite true for me too, my Rolexes never kept good time...but the Omegas they are pretty accurate.
I’m confused as to why he said the vintage Omega is more accurate than the Seiko 5 when the Omega was +26s/day and the Seiko was +0s/day. Wouldn’t 0s be dead on accurate?
Even the lift angle was wrong for the most watches. With seiko you must wear the watch. 1 got 18 seikos the each runs ca 3 sek a day only the marine Master Run with 8 + but 5 jears always the same. The New roles 3235 New perfekt after half jear 20 sek -. The tudors New 0sek. After 2 jears -4. For the mony you pay is seiko king. Pay the same with grand seiko as a rolex it runs 1 sek a week+ after 2 jears.
I thought the same.
Yeah when I heard him say this, I stopped watching as his watch knowledge and memory recall is so poor. Maybe he's tons of knowledge about his more expensive watches but I didn't stay to find out. Awful video.
Yes, what's up with that?
He was probably thinking about the stated accuracy of the 4R movements. Seiko state their accuracy as -20 to +40 sec/day; however, that doesn't mean they can't be regulated to be more accurate; it's just means that Seiko aren't committed to regulating them to a very tight margin. They are mass producing these movements and don't want to deal with high number of warranty claims. That being said he's comparing apples to oranges here, he's dismissing the measured accuracy of the Seiko and instead comparing the stated accuracy of the Seiko to the measured accuracy of the Omega. As many have pointed out, it's just a sloppy video all around, and as much as I like Adrian's content, I think he needs to be called out for a low effort video.
Thanks for your video, I also own an Omega Seamaster Professional Bond watch and am amazed by the accuracy, I’ve had it for 3 years now and wear it daily. Last fall I monitored it over 3 months and was amazed how accurate the movement is.
You monitored a watch for 3 months? Do you also enjoy watching your nails grow? How about dust collect at the corner where the wall meets the floor? How about tumble weed…
@@michaelriera6277
I’m an engineer and I wanted to measure the accuracy of this movement, I compared it daily to an atomic clock and recorded the variations in my log. I was surprised how accurate this movement is for a mechanical watch.
Picked up a AMZWATCH's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
I was born in 1966 and the Turn-o-Graph is working better than I am 🤣
🤣
A lot of watches are working better than you or I. 😆 🥃 P.S. Hope all is well!
😂😂😂 go-on chap!
@@rhgrabowski3855 🤣 I agree. Hope you are well my friend
,,Oo-ooh I'm a rebel just for kicks now, I've been kickin' it since 1966 now!" 🎶
The amplitude readings may not be correct, as it depends on the lift angle specific to the movement. Not all movements have lift angle of 52 degrees. For example, Omega 8800 caliber has the lift angle of 36 degrees.
Especially on coaxial escapements though, the amplitude reading is always off. I think it needs a special kind of TG to get an accurate reading of the amplitude for this movement.
The auto amplitude in some timegrapher is often off. Really need to manually set the lift angle for your specific movement.
Not sure about the timegraphers but my 4Rs perform exceptionally well... gaining/losing around 7-8s across a week...
Love this video. No one talks about accuracy. Thank you Adrian.
I’d like to see real life stats… I set my Omega SMP 300 to the World clock (time.is) every few months when I travel and change time zones. It’s about +1-2 seconds a WEEK. Amazing. I found that if I set it face up at night and wind it every 4-5 days it’s almost perfect.
Plus it’s a strap monster. Looks good on rubber, original and mesh bracelets, Nato and even leather.
The way you set down the root beer after testing it really shows you just love to wear them as how you would a G shock, absolutely love that
Made me cringe tbh. It’s a $16K watch 🥲
Boink
I saw that too. But nice watches are to be worn 🤷♂️ they need to be able to handle life.
No safe queens here. 🙌🏻
@@Mark-lj1djthere’s driving my off-road vehicle, off road and then there’s banging into my garage wall as an indicator for stopping 😅.
Every Omega I’ve ever had had been accurate within 1 second a day or less. Just phenomenal watches. Once I went Omega I didn’t turn back.
Any SMPc is an awesome everyday watch. I've had my 2012-2017 black lacquered dial one for seven years and counting. It looks stunning, it's accurate and well-made.
Cheers Adrian, brilliant and informative video. A simple format, but tells so much about the movement of the watches and why we pay so much for them.
You must change the lift angle for each caliber to the specified degrees by the manufacturer for an accurate amplitude reading.
A timegrapher is a good way to get a suggested baseline for accuracy. What it "should" be performing at.
However, using an app to keep track of the watch actually in use with all the movements, temperatures and whatever you normally put it through would be the best judge of actual accuracy.
Makes for an interesting comparison between what timegrapher tells you in static position(s) and what actual practical usage on the wrist does.
I have a 1965 Seiko Lord Marvel running at a steady +3 seconds a day. Not bad for a watch almost as ancient as me.
Picked up a MAMACOO's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
Finally a vid explaining how the timegrapher works and what the metrics mean. Thanks Adrian. Very informative. 🙂
I’ve waited for this content for a very long time. Probably one of my favourite videos of yours, thanks!
Having had quite a few Omega coaxials, I can attest that their coaxial movements are the real deal. Particularly over extended service intervals. These watches stay as good as new after exceeding the 6th or 7th year after service.
I have a Longines Heritage which I kept wound for 120 days. I wore it most days. I never reset the time in that period. It varied slightly out of COSC ranges, but at the end of 120 days, it was a net 3 seconds fast. You can't beat that.
Adrian, the amplitude reading of your Omega is horribly off because you did not set the lift angle. You kept it at the default of 52 degrees. But it should be set at 36 degrees for the Omega.
Also, your Omega has a co-axial movement so your regular timegraph can't get an accurate amplitude reading even if the lift angle is set to 36 degrees. You need a different timegrapher for co-axial escapements to get a truly accurate reading.
I think the 1900 has some separate circuitry for reading Co-Ax's and that's why he is seeing the sudden amplitude change, its recognizing it and changing the reading. I'm not saying it's accurate and of course you are right about the lift angle but mine does the same.
My wife just bought me a timegrapher very handy tool for checking the operation of the movement.
and blood pressure.
@@michaelriera6277 my wife's fruit watch will check your heart rate and BP
Interesting to see how a timegrapher works, it was just a bit of fun and nice to see a broad variance of watches from old to new. Nice to see you have had your Explorer II repaired after breaking the glass whilst on a trip out. Looking forward to seeing how the watch comes back.
Finally. The least talked about subject! Yet at the end of the day. The MOST important
One of my favorite videos you’ve ever done. Practical and we got to see part of your collection.
Video's like this always cause a little smile to form on my face. I love my mechanical watches for what they are....works of engineering artwork, and many times, pieces of history. But when I talk or think about accuracy, a mechanical watch is never a part of the conversation. My Bulova Lunar Pilot, and even a $70 AliExpress Seiko homage watch I bought on a whim would decimate any of the mechanical watches on your table (or mine) when it comes to pure accuracy with their Seiko VK Quartz movements. And because they're quartz they require no winding and almost no service. Your Omega (and my red dial Aqua Terra) are gorgeous and something to aspire to own, but again, not based on their accuracy. And let's be honest, how many of us wear a mechanical watch enough week to week to keep the movement going anyway. So if you're likely to have to reset it when you do get around to wearing it, who cares how accurate it really is. Just my $.02.
I bought a timegrapher with the intention of using it to determine whether or not my watches need servicing. Some of my watches that have passed the ‘service-due-‘date are running extremely well so, it’s saving me money!
As long as you’re not using the same watch everyday then you can really stretch out the service interval especially if the watch is relatively new (less than 15 years). The best part is you’ll be keeping the watch intact from the manufacturer longer without running the risk of opening it and potentially introducing issues that weren’t there in the first place.
Nice video. I had a modern Seamaster 300 also and the accuracy was terrific. Interesting to see you had the same experience.
Defintely interesting to see how that stacked up. Appreciate the testing 👍🏻
Hey, I think that having a habit of servicing a watch is a must for a true watch lover! Using a watch that is not serviced for more than 10 years is going to wear out metal inside watch movement and will over time render a watch inaccurate or even worse produce major movement damage... Second thing is the joy you have if you have vintage watches - to see a watch half a century old freshly serviced spot on +/- 1 sec a day is something special... Those old timepieces were made without computers and 3D models and without modern CNC machines, but they only need a little oil to run smooth as silk
Omega rocks! I own a speedmaster first omega in space. Highly accurate within cosc
I've only been into watch collecting for a few years and started out with Seiko's, 4R36 and 6r35 and moved onto Swiss watch movements sellita sw200 and ETA's 2824 . Admittedly the low end of the watch hierarchy. But the Seiko's across the board are between 0 to 5+ seconds a day, and the swiss 10 + -20+ a day. I'd love an Omega one day.
Go Omega! I have tried testing my Aqua terra (2023 small seconds) vs my Explorer 40 (2024) on accuracy by setting both Hour/Minute hands and second hand on the exact same time. After 1 week of using them, they kept the same time. I was planning to try more than 30days of testing to really see the results, but thanks to your video and the timegrapher machine, did it in a few minutes. Surprised with the Seiko sports because mine runs late, but even more surprised with the Sub results of +13secs!! Omega Metas certificate is no joke, results are 0/+5sec/day. you would never be late!
got my 39mm with the white dial on the 3-link "Bader" bracelet watch on MaMaCoo 3 weeks ago and am loving it to pieces. Absolute fantastic watch that wears super comfortable on my 6.75 inch wrist. Chose the 3-link over the 5-link bracelet for the toolless quick adjustment. Way more comfortable than my Longines Hydroconquest 41 mm.
The watches start at a low amplitude and then kick up because the movement has to add momentum to the amplitude on each swing, so it takes a minute to get to full amplitude.
For instance if you and a friend are on a swing set, it's very hard to just give someone one push and get them to 180°, where the ropes of the swing are parallel to the ground. But by giving a little push each time the person goes by you can easily get them there.
The seiko 5 I have seems up there with some of the more luxury models I have hasn't been an issue holding accurate time great value for money
Nice video! Omega movements are absolutely great 💪🏻
I have an Aquaterra with the 8900 movement and its performances are like yours, simply perfect !
I have to say I am a bit of a nerd when it comes to watch accuracy, which you really shouldn’t be with mechanical watches! Though I don’t use a Timegrapher I set it in the morning, wear as usual for a day and check 24hrs later against my reference time (phone). This gives you a much more realistic reading. My most accurate being my Tudor Ranger with the latest movement that seriously sits at +/-0.5 spd. My Black Bay 58 at -1spd, Rolex OP at +4spd, latest model Speedy at +2spd and the worst being my 2007 Seamaster running at -6spd. Not that I’ve checked them at all!😜
My SMP300 from 2016 is still my most accurate watch to date. Never serviced and also my beater.
I have my dad’s Omega that is exactly like your grandfather’s DeVille…even on the same type strap. I had my local Omega/Rolex guy service it a couple of years ago. I wear it every couple of weeks. Keeps great time.
You can track the Co-axial movement back to 1980 when George Daniel’s patented it.. of all the brands he too it too.. Omega chose to use it and worked with him to integrate it into the watches… that’s why the movement is so kick ass… it goes way back to one of the finest horologists and watch makers of the current era.. and only Roger Smith has been honoured to fallow in his footsteps.. awesome video Mr Barker..
Always wanted to know how these flipping machines actually worked 😎
So you honestly didn’t know how these “flipping “ machines worked?
Great video and I love my mechanical watches but it certainly makes a case for Precisionist and other quartz movements.
I have two 1999 Omega watches and they're both +3 secs day. Love them!
I've got a Rolex GMT Master II, but if I want to know the time with zero error, I have a Casio Wave Ceptor. It gets the exact time every night from WWV via radio signal. I think I paid about $70 for it 20 years ago. It's also solar, no batteries, no winding. Actually, it does gain 1 second in about 20 hours, but it's corrected automatically each night.
I've been jealous of that Seamaster from the beginning, and Adrian got it for a steal.
This video was your best yet!
While I am seriously, seriously happy with my Black Bay 54. One day I'll own an Omega, for the movement alone. Top tier watch making, that's AD accessible and without the status hype shenanigans.
Grail worthy stuff.
Keep the content coming Adrian 😊
P.S. BB54 accuracy = Worn -1 sec/day. Stored overnight face down +1 sec so can be nigh bang on.
Omega 8800 family of movements are rockstars no surprises at all. My Raily has an 8806 easily the best modern day movement in a modern watch I can think of.
Always a good day when your video drops!Great video as always.Can’t beat it for MAMACOO watches！
A great and really informative video - my most accurate watch is a 2022 40mm Longines Legend Diver that is accurate to about 1-2 seconds/day. Even my two Rolexes and a Montblanc cannot match that. Cheers, Chas T
Been watching your videos for a while now and was inspired to start a collection. Started with the MAMACOO, its specs for price and clean looks, now am looking for a dress watch to add.
Oof! The way you just chucked that rootbeer down on that table made me gasp. 😁
My two Omega SMP's; one full Sedna & the other the black dial two-tone both run at between +1-2 sec/day. My Rolex YM 40 two-tone black dial runs at 0/day (over ~6 weeks, worn everyday when I first bought it) & my two-tone Tudor BB GMT "rootbeer" is running at -1. My two "dailies" - Bremont H1 Fury blue -2 per day & Tudor Coke +2 secs.
My CW's: two original LE Bel Cantos & C60 Chrono...no idea!
Adrian, the Weishi 1900 is capable of handling coaxial movements like the Omega 8800. You need to set the lift angle correctly to have the correct amplitude (anything beyond 320° is too much). To adjust the lift angle press the red button once to stop the measurement then press 'menu/speaker' twice and adjust the value via the up/down keys. For the 8800 you want to set it at 36°. Press the red button again to restart the measurement. ;-)
4R36 do have manual winding. If you're shaking it around like that all the time, maybe that's why the beat error is horrendous? 😅 Anything beat error above 0.4ms needs attention. Also, amplitude readings are not correct unless you input the different lift angles (L.A.) for the different calibres. And regular timegraphers are not able to correctly interpret coaxial calibre amplitudes.
One thing to pay attention to when testing amplitude of watches, is the lift angle. The lift angle only changes the amplitude measurement and I believe on the Omega 8800 it is 36 degrees. A 346 degree amplitude is too high and to be expected when measuring with a 52 degree lift angle. I would try the seamaster again at a 36 and see what it says!
Also some Timegrapher a have a special measuring mode for the coaxial escapement so I would also look to see if your has that!
Cheers great video!
I have the Omega NTTD and Tudor BB58 GMT. My Omega averages + 0.5 sec/day. Last 3 days, I had 0 sec +/- While my Tudor averages + 2.8 sec a day over the last 3 weeks. Both within METAS specs, but Omega deviates a lot less. Being in the military, accurate time is important. I would zero my watch before a mission or major training exercise. Wish the Omega Ti NTTD is fixed lug, 8906 movement (jumping hour hand), Gladiator hands, and grippier bezel. Love the size, Illum., wearability, and thinness. This can be the future MilSub/Mil SMP. Just need to tweak it a little for combat use.
COSC and METAS are mere snapshots of a watches accuracy at the time of certification. 99.9% of watches use a lever escapement, so it's this, that causes the issue. The lever escapement requires oil to function because of sliding friction. These oils deteriorate over time, thus affecting long-term accuracy. This is why they have rate issues. The co-axial on the other hand, will keep its chronometer rating, because of the escapement design. This escapement uses a pushing action, so contact friction is significantly reduced. Therefore oiling is less of a concern.
Great video！I also brought a timegrapher and found it pretty handy for occasionally checking which one might need a service among my collection.
One thing got me super curious 5:46 that you mentioned the Rolex 3000 movement has a “soft” manual winding system. Would love to learn more about which watches or movements have the same issue, and which are strong enough to take frequent manual winding. I manually wind my watch quite often due to not being super active when wearing my mechanical watches.
No need to manually wind. Simply gently shake back and forth, right to left, up and down for 45-60 seconds and it will be equivalent to 30 manual winds.
The amplitudes reported aren’t accurate since you didn’t change the lift angle for each movement
Watching from Sollentuna, vacation day 6/37. GLORIOUS FREEDOM!!!!
Interesting. I am someone who does consider the movements within a watch when buying one. I wonder how a Tudor METAS movement would do after time. Not surprised by the Omega as they've been doing METAS for a while to have their movement process very refined.
My brand new Planet Ocean is -3sec./day. My BB Monochrome is +1sec. after 3 full day.
@@maitrehg ..interesting.
Good point
Love the omega and Seiko ❤. You should do this every year.
Love this content Adrian!
Thanks mate. It was really interesting to make.
Agreed. I enjoyed this one too.
This is a very nice video.
I look forward to seeing your Explorer all sorted out, I hope you took a video of its repair journey.
I wait for my watches to "fail" before having a service.
*Time is relative, just like watch accuracy.
I was waiting for the BB58, but thank you anyways for this interesting format !
I did not understand how +26 is better than +0. Isn’t it better to have a day near the right time
I think he meant the seiko advertisement of 40/60
@@Geniusclicks So this guy is an idiot?
He compared Omega's measured accuracy against Seiko's advertised accuracy..lol. Two completely different things.
Love your channel with so many stellar watches! For me the MAMACOO’ watch is my favorite. Keep the videos coming. Thanks.
Your Omega looks gold btw. Very nice 🤩
@BarkandJack, The Weishi timegraphers glitch a bit at first with Omega Co-Axials, because it uses a different release system. Thats why you have this weird reading at first.
Love a timegrapher. A good way to check the health of a second hand purchase.
Thanks for explaining the time grapher. Maybe a de magnetiser for £10 next before shelling out for a service.
Hey Adrian, bingeing your content again as I loved the explorer 2 stuff you shot at the Matterhorn. Did you get your Exp2 fixed ? Hope all is well.
Nice video, as always. But, to the vintage Seamaster... you can't "overwind" a watch. It's impossible. The mainspring wraps around the arbor in the barrel and then it is that. When it is fully wound there just isn't anymore slack to tighten. "Overwound" watches are a term that means a movement which no longer runs and has a fully wound mainspring. This can be a broken balance staff, or a gummed up movement, etc. But it's not "overwound". Just wind your manual watches until they are fully wound and go on with your day. As long as you're not taking a vice grip to the crown you'll be fine.
The amplitude jumps because is dealing with a coaxial movement and you have different sound.
My suggestion too. Older timegraphers can't deal with
co-axial movements. They simply can't hear the used to "tick" - sound and therefore jump with the amplitude. But the lift angle should be precisely set to the correct value for the specific movement.
I recently received a new Rolex Datejust. I wore it for 61 days straight, day and night. It gained 18 seconds. So that's .295 seconds per day. I never had a watch this accurate and that test really takes into consideration differences in accuracy based on variable positions like case down, 3 down, 12 down, etc.
Great video, I really enjoyed it! Do you also experience with your IWC Mark XX that you have to wind it fairly a lot to get it running? Sometimes I have to wind my Mark XX for around 20-30 times before it starts running.
The omega amplitude jumps up because that time Grapher can't measure amplitude for coaxial movements. You need a special, more high end one, to measure coaxial amplitude
Or shake it
my 1994 Explorer 15270 runs -1 per day. Perfect watch for me.I have a GS quartz which gained 8 sec in the whole off 2023.
Nice presentation as well for the details on timegrapher machine.
Nice collection! Thanks for sharing collection! Not sure if I missed it but but wonder what the L.A. is on the timegrapher
Thanks mate. LA is lift angel, each movement has a slightly different lift angle, but the vast majority of modern watches are 52 degrees. And I couldn’t find lift angles for the vintage watches so I left it.
Interesting video is very important the accuracy of a watch. If all watches were COSC classified it will be a more accurate test. Christopher Ward, which I have one of is COSC classified, it’s the C60 tide ,it gains and loses half a second a day. The Christopher Ward in this video is not COSC classified. If a watch was gaining 20 seconds a day. I would sent it straight back.
Thank you very much. Very informative video. I would like to ask you, two questions. Should we keep our automatic watches in winding boxes? If so do you have any recommendation? Could you recommend a book to learn more about watches? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Cheers!
My 2021 Omega Diver300 and especially my Planet Ocean is the most accurate movement I had have, much more accurate than any Rolex I have owned. If I take my Planet Ocean on a holiday, wearing it 10 hours a day, it will be offset by 1 second in a week, its crazy!
Explorer I works great after so long and that Omega is just amazing to see.
Actually, all your watches (except Kermit, may be, but nothing terrible) performed really well. Congrats, Adrian!
Even Seiko did perform better than I expected.
The watch that surprised me the most is the Explorer, which performed fantastically after been worn all these years.
If you own a lot of watches a time grapher is a must to keep an eye on watch health. Especially vintage.
I know that I am biased but Omega is a winner at any price point.
They do make a damn great movement
Great video. Very interesting experiment.