For the seiko 5, you can wind it, btw. It was only the skx or old 7s26 movement, where you will have to do the seiko shuffle. Love the videos!! Keep them coming!
Kinda disappointed by the missing knowledge here. He could have easily tried and should instantly feel if it's possible to wind the mainspring or not. You don't even need to know the movement inside...
@@SinnerAndSaint mmm I don't think it's as much "missing knowledge" as it's the 5kx's are below the level of Seiko he fux with, If it was a 62mas/Turtle/Sumo/etc he wouldn't have hesitated to wind it. (I believe)
FYI to get accurate amplitude reading you need to set the lift angle for that specific movement. Note that not all manufacturers publish the lift angles for their movements. Also, just get a cheap demagnetizer. They cost less than 20 £/$/€ and within 10sec you can fix a magnetized watch.
This is easy. If you’ve purchased your watch within the last 15 years you do Not need to service at any set intervals especially if the watch is not worn everyday and is part of a larger rotation. Newer watches use synthetic oils that do not gunk up, degrade, or evaporate like older mineral oils. Periodically check them on a timegrapher and if the amplitude is between 230-315, small beat error, not running too fast or too slow then there is absolutely No reason to submit the watch to an intervention that may ultimately introduce issues that were not originally there.
I completely agree. I have a Seamaster and due to the coaxial escapement I'm just going to wear it until it starts losing or gaining time excessively. The only other logical reason to service regularly is the waterproof seals might need replacing.
More than one experienced salesperson told me over the past 30 years: As long as it runs within a couple of seconds a day, let it run, it’s fine. This was reg Rolex watches and in the 90s and 2000s
@@Mark-lj1dj Agree... Run it till it stops. The only reason to service is to put in new seals if you want to go swimming. My Seamaster is 16 years old, never serviced and keeps perfect time.
That’s my attitude. Serviced my Rolex GMTII after 6 years and after it came back the hour hand started dragging the dial a bit and left a fine mark. Took a while to notice. After that was fixed I waited until the crown started getting stuck and the watch stopped running. That was 20 years later. I have 8 self winding watches that I treat the same way. A 2006 Submariner and 2008 Daytona that have never been serviced, run as good as the day I bought them. I don’t dive with my mechanical watches so no worries about the seal not keeping the water out at 200m depth. At $600-$1500 for servicing I better have a good reason. As far as accuracy, if they’re running within spec I’m happy. Besides, if I need to know to the second what time it is I use my phone.
When measuring a watch’s stats on a Timegrapher, there are three things you need to remember. 1) Don’t do on an absolutely full wind. If you’ve been wearing it all day, let it wind down a bit for half an hour. 2) Lift angle. It can affect the results of the measure, and can vary between 42 degrees (Vostok movements) and 56.5 (old Seiko 5). Lift angels are usually available online, and worth setting. 3) Accuracy by itself doesn’t tell you much. Important stats are beat error and amplitude. It is possible to regulate even fifty or sixty year old movements in good condition to be +-10 seconds a day, but always let your watchmaker do the hard bit. And always remember; just because it says one thing on the Timegrapher, your accuracy may be vastly different wearing every day.
Glad somebody mentioned lift angle, the lift angle for a coaxial is in the 30s somewhere if I remember correctly. This can definitely change the readings
You indeed need to set the lift angle for an accurate amplitude reading. However, not all manufacturers publish the lift angle for their movements. The watchmaker should (and probably does) know this, he was likely only showing owners the rate and beat error to give a quick insight.
Correct. The lift angle is highly important for reading the correct amplitude. You can simply look it up via Google which will lead you to the well known calibre / movement websites that will display the correct lift angle for each movement.
Yeah, I was disappointed to see that Adrian does not seem to be aware of those two points. Also, measure the watch in different positions. Don't just measure in the dial up position because you may get misleading results. At the very least, measure by simulating the positions of a right-handed person wearing the watch on their left hand (crown down & crown left). Then you can take the average of all the readings.
You'll love it. I have the white dial featured here and I really can't fault it. I daily it and check it against my laptop regularly and in the real world it gains about a second or so each day. I usually set it 15 seconds slow and when it gets to about 30 seconds fast I reset it. It's the best watch on the market right now for my money. Plus the coaxial escapement means it shouldn't require servicing very often at all.
I’m confused as to why he said the vintage Omega is more accurate than the Seiko 5 when the Omega was +26s/day and the Seiko was +0s/day. Wouldn’t 0s be dead on accurate?
Even the lift angle was wrong for the most watches. With seiko you must wear the watch. 1 got 18 seikos the each runs ca 3 sek a day only the marine Master Run with 8 + but 5 jears always the same. The New roles 3235 New perfekt after half jear 20 sek -. The tudors New 0sek. After 2 jears -4. For the mony you pay is seiko king. Pay the same with grand seiko as a rolex it runs 1 sek a week+ after 2 jears.
Yeah when I heard him say this, I stopped watching as his watch knowledge and memory recall is so poor. Maybe he's tons of knowledge about his more expensive watches but I didn't stay to find out. Awful video.
He was probably thinking about the stated accuracy of the 4R movements. Seiko state their accuracy as -20 to +40 sec/day; however, that doesn't mean they can't be regulated to be more accurate; it's just means that Seiko aren't committed to regulating them to a very tight margin. They are mass producing these movements and don't want to deal with high number of warranty claims. That being said he's comparing apples to oranges here, he's dismissing the measured accuracy of the Seiko and instead comparing the stated accuracy of the Seiko to the measured accuracy of the Omega. As many have pointed out, it's just a sloppy video all around, and as much as I like Adrian's content, I think he needs to be called out for a low effort video.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Co-Axial movement seems like the cheapest way to get a well-made, decently good looking, interestingly-engineered, and reliable mechanical movement
I agree. Due to it being frictionless it needs virtually no oil. George Daniels said that if you get it serviced every 20 years it should keep good time for 400 years. I couldn't invest in a nice watch if it didn't have the coaxial 🤷♂️ so I guess I'm limited to modern Omegas.
Note that Tudor’s new movements are also METAS certified and are cheaper than Omega. I’m a huge Omega fan but time will tell about how reliable and accurate Tudor’s are over the long term
I am a massive fan of Omega’s coaxial movement. I think it represents a leap forward in modern horology . However, my most recent purchase is a BB58 and the movement is very accurate with a nice PR for a traditional movement.
@@Antenox They're both COSC, METAS, and master chronometer certified from manufacturers with an incredible track record. I would just say that I personally love geeking out about the co-axial escapement and the ability to see the movements in even many of the dive watches. The BB and Pelagos are crazy value for the price though
The amplitude readings may not be correct, as it depends on the lift angle specific to the movement. Not all movements have lift angle of 52 degrees. For example, Omega 8800 caliber has the lift angle of 36 degrees.
Especially on coaxial escapements though, the amplitude reading is always off. I think it needs a special kind of TG to get an accurate reading of the amplitude for this movement.
I've the same seamaster 300m (in black). This watch is just incredible. It has been hit, went throught airport, near industrial motor with big magnetisism.. and still + 0s/day for years... An unbreakable awsome watch !
A really interesting insight, thank you for putting the time into this film. I have my own timegrapher and tried a similar experiment myself a couple of years ago. I immediately found that what the timegrapher displays in static conditions (regardless of position) varied massively from what I witnessed when wearing any particular watch over several days. For example, my Tudor Black Bay 36 (older version, ETA movement) showed around +/-3sec a day in various positions on the Timegrapher, but would be about -30sec off after wearing it for a week, while my trusty Seiko SKX would show massive variation on the Timegrapher (anything from +20sec a day to -30sec a day, depending on position) yet would be off my no more than 10sec when worn on the wrist. I’ve since migrated to wearing mainly CWC quartz watches, and Grand Seikos with 9F movements. Problem solved! Keep well :-)
A timegrapher is a good way to get a suggested baseline for accuracy. What it "should" be performing at. However, using an app to keep track of the watch actually in use with all the movements, temperatures and whatever you normally put it through would be the best judge of actual accuracy. Makes for an interesting comparison between what timegrapher tells you in static position(s) and what actual practical usage on the wrist does.
Adrian, the amplitude reading of your Omega is horribly off because you did not set the lift angle. You kept it at the default of 52 degrees. But it should be set at 36 degrees for the Omega. Also, your Omega has a co-axial movement so your regular timegraph can't get an accurate amplitude reading even if the lift angle is set to 36 degrees. You need a different timegrapher for co-axial escapements to get a truly accurate reading.
I think the 1900 has some separate circuitry for reading Co-Ax's and that's why he is seeing the sudden amplitude change, its recognizing it and changing the reading. I'm not saying it's accurate and of course you are right about the lift angle but mine does the same.
Thanks for your video, I also own an Omega Seamaster Professional Bond watch and am amazed by the accuracy, I’ve had it for 3 years now and wear it daily. Last fall I monitored it over 3 months and was amazed how accurate the movement is.
You monitored a watch for 3 months? Do you also enjoy watching your nails grow? How about dust collect at the corner where the wall meets the floor? How about tumble weed…
@@michaelriera6277 I’m an engineer and I wanted to measure the accuracy of this movement, I compared it daily to an atomic clock and recorded the variations in my log. I was surprised how accurate this movement is for a mechanical watch.
Having had quite a few Omega coaxials, I can attest that their coaxial movements are the real deal. Particularly over extended service intervals. These watches stay as good as new after exceeding the 6th or 7th year after service.
No its not weirdo , they are literally the easiest brand to regulate . i literally have 8 seikos running within cosc and another 2 at +5 for sub 1000 dollar watches thats fkn insane .
Zero seconds a day that 4R36 is as @rainerbuechse6923 says quite remarkable as seiko produces a lot of these movements and you can be lucky and unlucky it’s a seiko Lottery.
I bought a timegrapher with the intention of using it to determine whether or not my watches need servicing. Some of my watches that have passed the ‘service-due-‘date are running extremely well so, it’s saving me money!
As long as you’re not using the same watch everyday then you can really stretch out the service interval especially if the watch is relatively new (less than 15 years). The best part is you’ll be keeping the watch intact from the manufacturer longer without running the risk of opening it and potentially introducing issues that weren’t there in the first place.
I purchased an Explorer 1016 new in 1986 and it consistently gained 7 seconds per day (checked by the "beep" on the radio for the correct time). After about 8 years I had it serviced by Rolex when the crown threads began to fail (I would reset it daily). It came back gaining 4 seconds per day. Now my daughter has it - I suspect in a box. Good vid. Keep at it.
Any SMPc is an awesome everyday watch. I've had my 2012-2017 black lacquered dial one for seven years and counting. It looks stunning, it's accurate and well-made.
The watches start at a low amplitude and then kick up because the movement has to add momentum to the amplitude on each swing, so it takes a minute to get to full amplitude. For instance if you and a friend are on a swing set, it's very hard to just give someone one push and get them to 180°, where the ropes of the swing are parallel to the ground. But by giving a little push each time the person goes by you can easily get them there.
Great video 👌🏻 I sold my Sub date and bought a Planet ocean because the Rolex kept horrific time from new and took a mark at the slightest touch. My Omega hasn’t skipped a beat in 10 years and is in tip top condition 👍🏻
I have a Longines Heritage which I kept wound for 120 days. I wore it most days. I never reset the time in that period. It varied slightly out of COSC ranges, but at the end of 120 days, it was a net 3 seconds fast. You can't beat that.
Love this video. No one talks about accuracy. Thank you Adrian. I’d like to see real life stats… I set my Omega SMP 300 to the World clock (time.is) every few months when I travel and change time zones. It’s about +1-2 seconds a WEEK. Amazing. I found that if I set it face up at night and wind it every 4-5 days it’s almost perfect. Plus it’s a strap monster. Looks good on rubber, original and mesh bracelets, Nato and even leather.
Hey, I think that having a habit of servicing a watch is a must for a true watch lover! Using a watch that is not serviced for more than 10 years is going to wear out metal inside watch movement and will over time render a watch inaccurate or even worse produce major movement damage... Second thing is the joy you have if you have vintage watches - to see a watch half a century old freshly serviced spot on +/- 1 sec a day is something special... Those old timepieces were made without computers and 3D models and without modern CNC machines, but they only need a little oil to run smooth as silk
I've only been into watch collecting for a few years and started out with Seiko's, 4R36 and 6r35 and moved onto Swiss watch movements sellita sw200 and ETA's 2824 . Admittedly the low end of the watch hierarchy. But the Seiko's across the board are between 0 to 5+ seconds a day, and the swiss 10 + -20+ a day. I'd love an Omega one day.
Interesting to see how a timegrapher works, it was just a bit of fun and nice to see a broad variance of watches from old to new. Nice to see you have had your Explorer II repaired after breaking the glass whilst on a trip out. Looking forward to seeing how the watch comes back.
The omega amplitude jumps up because that time Grapher can't measure amplitude for coaxial movements. You need a special, more high end one, to measure coaxial amplitude
My suggestion too. Older timegraphers can't deal with co-axial movements. They simply can't hear the used to "tick" - sound and therefore jump with the amplitude. But the lift angle should be precisely set to the correct value for the specific movement.
4R36 do have manual winding. If you're shaking it around like that all the time, maybe that's why the beat error is horrendous? 😅 Anything beat error above 0.4ms needs attention. Also, amplitude readings are not correct unless you input the different lift angles (L.A.) for the different calibres. And regular timegraphers are not able to correctly interpret coaxial calibre amplitudes.
I've got a Rolex GMT Master II, but if I want to know the time with zero error, I have a Casio Wave Ceptor. It gets the exact time every night from WWV via radio signal. I think I paid about $70 for it 20 years ago. It's also solar, no batteries, no winding. Actually, it does gain 1 second in about 20 hours, but it's corrected automatically each night.
I have to say I am a bit of a nerd when it comes to watch accuracy, which you really shouldn’t be with mechanical watches! Though I don’t use a Timegrapher I set it in the morning, wear as usual for a day and check 24hrs later against my reference time (phone). This gives you a much more realistic reading. My most accurate being my Tudor Ranger with the latest movement that seriously sits at +/-0.5 spd. My Black Bay 58 at -1spd, Rolex OP at +4spd, latest model Speedy at +2spd and the worst being my 2007 Seamaster running at -6spd. Not that I’ve checked them at all!😜
COSC and METAS are mere snapshots of a watches accuracy at the time of certification. 99.9% of watches use a lever escapement, so it's this, that causes the issue. The lever escapement requires oil to function because of sliding friction. These oils deteriorate over time, thus affecting long-term accuracy. This is why they have rate issues. The co-axial on the other hand, will keep its chronometer rating, because of the escapement design. This escapement uses a pushing action, so contact friction is significantly reduced. Therefore oiling is less of a concern.
Omega 8800 family of movements are rockstars no surprises at all. My Raily has an 8806 easily the best modern day movement in a modern watch I can think of.
Interesting. I am someone who does consider the movements within a watch when buying one. I wonder how a Tudor METAS movement would do after time. Not surprised by the Omega as they've been doing METAS for a while to have their movement process very refined.
I recently received a new Rolex Datejust. I wore it for 61 days straight, day and night. It gained 18 seconds. So that's .295 seconds per day. I never had a watch this accurate and that test really takes into consideration differences in accuracy based on variable positions like case down, 3 down, 12 down, etc.
Adrian, the Weishi 1900 is capable of handling coaxial movements like the Omega 8800. You need to set the lift angle correctly to have the correct amplitude (anything beyond 320° is too much). To adjust the lift angle press the red button once to stop the measurement then press 'menu/speaker' twice and adjust the value via the up/down keys. For the 8800 you want to set it at 36°. Press the red button again to restart the measurement. ;-)
I have the Omega NTTD and Tudor BB58 GMT. My Omega averages + 0.5 sec/day. Last 3 days, I had 0 sec +/- While my Tudor averages + 2.8 sec a day over the last 3 weeks. Both within METAS specs, but Omega deviates a lot less. Being in the military, accurate time is important. I would zero my watch before a mission or major training exercise. Wish the Omega Ti NTTD is fixed lug, 8906 movement (jumping hour hand), Gladiator hands, and grippier bezel. Love the size, Illum., wearability, and thinness. This can be the future MilSub/Mil SMP. Just need to tweak it a little for combat use.
got my 39mm with the white dial on the 3-link "Bader" bracelet watch on MaMaCoo 3 weeks ago and am loving it to pieces. Absolute fantastic watch that wears super comfortable on my 6.75 inch wrist. Chose the 3-link over the 5-link bracelet for the toolless quick adjustment. Way more comfortable than my Longines Hydroconquest 41 mm.
I'm not at all surprised at the result. My Aqua Terra with the same movement has gone days with 0 seconds of deviation. Omega certified it for +1 seconds in 5 positions. Just amazing.
Nice video, as always. But, to the vintage Seamaster... you can't "overwind" a watch. It's impossible. The mainspring wraps around the arbor in the barrel and then it is that. When it is fully wound there just isn't anymore slack to tighten. "Overwound" watches are a term that means a movement which no longer runs and has a fully wound mainspring. This can be a broken balance staff, or a gummed up movement, etc. But it's not "overwound". Just wind your manual watches until they are fully wound and go on with your day. As long as you're not taking a vice grip to the crown you'll be fine.
This is a fun little video but there's a couple of things I'd like to advise you on as a professional watchmaker. The first is that the time grapher doesn't just listen to the balance, specifically the sound of the impulse tool hitting the horns. It also listens for and repeats the sound of the escape wheel striking the pallet Stones which is the where the audible ticking in a watch comes from. Second I noticed that you left the default lift angle of 52° on all the watches. That is only a default setting, and without setting that accurately for each different movement, many of which I am sure have a different lift angle than 52°, your amplitude numbers are not going to be accurate or comparable. You can still get a general idea of whether or not the watch is running well, but you have to get that lift angle right to get truly accurate data from a Time grapher. Fortunately a lot of people publish tables of lift angles so all you have to do is Google lift angle and the movement number and you can find it. I'm subscribing and looking forward to seeing more!
I have my dad’s Omega that is exactly like your grandfather’s DeVille…even on the same type strap. I had my local Omega/Rolex guy service it a couple of years ago. I wear it every couple of weeks. Keeps great time.
Oof! The way you just chucked that rootbeer down on that table made me gasp. 😁 My two Omega SMP's; one full Sedna & the other the black dial two-tone both run at between +1-2 sec/day. My Rolex YM 40 two-tone black dial runs at 0/day (over ~6 weeks, worn everyday when I first bought it) & my two-tone Tudor BB GMT "rootbeer" is running at -1. My two "dailies" - Bremont H1 Fury blue -2 per day & Tudor Coke +2 secs. My CW's: two original LE Bel Cantos & C60 Chrono...no idea!
Go Omega! I have tried testing my Aqua terra (2023 small seconds) vs my Explorer 40 (2024) on accuracy by setting both Hour/Minute hands and second hand on the exact same time. After 1 week of using them, they kept the same time. I was planning to try more than 30days of testing to really see the results, but thanks to your video and the timegrapher machine, did it in a few minutes. Surprised with the Seiko sports because mine runs late, but even more surprised with the Sub results of +13secs!! Omega Metas certificate is no joke, results are 0/+5sec/day. you would never be late!
A great and really informative video - my most accurate watch is a 2022 40mm Longines Legend Diver that is accurate to about 1-2 seconds/day. Even my two Rolexes and a Montblanc cannot match that. Cheers, Chas T
Video's like this always cause a little smile to form on my face. I love my mechanical watches for what they are....works of engineering artwork, and many times, pieces of history. But when I talk or think about accuracy, a mechanical watch is never a part of the conversation. My Bulova Lunar Pilot, and even a $70 AliExpress Seiko homage watch I bought on a whim would decimate any of the mechanical watches on your table (or mine) when it comes to pure accuracy with their Seiko VK Quartz movements. And because they're quartz they require no winding and almost no service. Your Omega (and my red dial Aqua Terra) are gorgeous and something to aspire to own, but again, not based on their accuracy. And let's be honest, how many of us wear a mechanical watch enough week to week to keep the movement going anyway. So if you're likely to have to reset it when you do get around to wearing it, who cares how accurate it really is. Just my $.02.
@BarkandJack, The Weishi timegraphers glitch a bit at first with Omega Co-Axials, because it uses a different release system. Thats why you have this weird reading at first.
One thing to pay attention to when testing amplitude of watches, is the lift angle. The lift angle only changes the amplitude measurement and I believe on the Omega 8800 it is 36 degrees. A 346 degree amplitude is too high and to be expected when measuring with a 52 degree lift angle. I would try the seamaster again at a 36 and see what it says! Also some Timegrapher a have a special measuring mode for the coaxial escapement so I would also look to see if your has that! Cheers great video!
You can track the Co-axial movement back to 1980 when George Daniel’s patented it.. of all the brands he too it too.. Omega chose to use it and worked with him to integrate it into the watches… that’s why the movement is so kick ass… it goes way back to one of the finest horologists and watch makers of the current era.. and only Roger Smith has been honoured to fallow in his footsteps.. awesome video Mr Barker.. Always wanted to know how these flipping machines actually worked 😎
Amplitude in the 230s is actually good and in spec for a Seiko. Minimum would be more like 190, targeting 220 for that movement. A lot of care can get it higher but the factory would ship it at 220.
Interesting video is very important the accuracy of a watch. If all watches were COSC classified it will be a more accurate test. Christopher Ward, which I have one of is COSC classified, it’s the C60 tide ,it gains and loses half a second a day. The Christopher Ward in this video is not COSC classified. If a watch was gaining 20 seconds a day. I would sent it straight back.
My Rolex OP Date, cal 1570, 19.8K bph, circa 1965, has been keeping -1, +2 sec per day for the last 10 yrs. However that’s by checking its time several times a week. Not beat error. On the grapher it indicates about +10.
This video was your best yet! While I am seriously, seriously happy with my Black Bay 54. One day I'll own an Omega, for the movement alone. Top tier watch making, that's AD accessible and without the status hype shenanigans. Grail worthy stuff. Keep the content coming Adrian 😊 P.S. BB54 accuracy = Worn -1 sec/day. Stored overnight face down +1 sec so can be nigh bang on.
For my Seamaster I can say, it runs differently depends on the site I’m laying down the watch over the night. If the dial is on the top, the watch runs about +1to2 Seconds, if I’m laying down the watch with the crown to the top, it runs around -2to3 seconds.
Been watching your videos for a while now and was inspired to start a collection. Started with the MAMACOO, its specs for price and clean looks, now am looking for a dress watch to add.
I've recently began my obsession as a watch collector. And i must say- out of all the luxury brands I've been researching, for me the amzwatch's watches are the most intriguing.
I've managed to calibrate both my automatics to about +10 seconds a day flat and face up, however, there's quite a bit of orientation variance for both but more so for one of them. This means that both watches do indeed perform differently during daily wear, to the point that I would say just measuring one position is not that useful. Sadly this is also why I prefer quartz to mechanicals, sure they both eventually need a service. But a watch that uses a precision-engineered crystal resonator that harnesses the piezoelectric properties of quartz to maintain exceptionally accurate timekeeping rather than just a thingy bouncing back and forth is just more dependable overall.
My 2021 Omega Diver300 and especially my Planet Ocean is the most accurate movement I had have, much more accurate than any Rolex I have owned. If I take my Planet Ocean on a holiday, wearing it 10 hours a day, it will be offset by 1 second in a week, its crazy!
There are actually Timegraphers that have a setting for Coaxial movements from what I have read so that may explain the amplitude jump. I own two of the SMP 300s with the 8800 movement and they do perform very well. My Seiko Captain Willard is the lest accurate in my collection.
For the seiko 5, you can wind it, btw. It was only the skx or old 7s26 movement, where you will have to do the seiko shuffle. Love the videos!! Keep them coming!
I was gonna make this comment, the 4R36 can be manually wound
Ya very weird that he said he can’t wind it
Nerds unite! I was gonna say the same thing! 😂
Kinda disappointed by the missing knowledge here. He could have easily tried and should instantly feel if it's possible to wind the mainspring or not. You don't even need to know the movement inside...
@@SinnerAndSaint mmm I don't think it's as much "missing knowledge" as it's the 5kx's are below the level of Seiko he fux with, If it was a 62mas/Turtle/Sumo/etc he wouldn't have hesitated to wind it. (I believe)
FYI to get accurate amplitude reading you need to set the lift angle for that specific movement. Note that not all manufacturers publish the lift angles for their movements.
Also, just get a cheap demagnetizer. They cost less than 20 £/$/€ and within 10sec you can fix a magnetized watch.
I was hoping someone would bring that up.
This is easy. If you’ve purchased your watch within the last 15 years you do Not need to service at any set intervals especially if the watch is not worn everyday and is part of a larger rotation. Newer watches use synthetic oils that do not gunk up, degrade, or evaporate like older mineral oils. Periodically check them on a timegrapher and if the amplitude is between 230-315, small beat error, not running too fast or too slow then there is absolutely No reason to submit the watch to an intervention that may ultimately introduce issues that were not originally there.
I completely agree. I have a Seamaster and due to the coaxial escapement I'm just going to wear it until it starts losing or gaining time excessively. The only other logical reason to service regularly is the waterproof seals might need replacing.
More than one experienced salesperson told me over the past 30 years: As long as it runs within a couple of seconds a day, let it run, it’s fine. This was reg Rolex watches and in the 90s and 2000s
@@Mark-lj1dj Agree... Run it till it stops. The only reason to service is to put in new seals if you want to go swimming. My Seamaster is 16 years old, never serviced and keeps perfect time.
That’s my attitude. Serviced my Rolex GMTII after 6 years and after it came back the hour hand started dragging the dial a bit and left a fine mark. Took a while to notice. After that was fixed I waited until the crown started getting stuck and the watch stopped running. That was 20 years later. I have 8 self winding watches that I treat the same way. A 2006 Submariner and 2008 Daytona that have never been serviced, run as good as the day I bought them. I don’t dive with my mechanical watches so no worries about the seal not keeping the water out at 200m depth. At $600-$1500 for servicing I better have a good reason. As far as accuracy, if they’re running within spec I’m happy. Besides, if I need to know to the second what time it is I use my phone.
You can manually wind that Seiko 5, it has the relatively new 4R36. Any Seiko 5 with that new "superman" logo has it.
When measuring a watch’s stats on a Timegrapher, there are three things you need to remember.
1) Don’t do on an absolutely full wind. If you’ve been wearing it all day, let it wind down a bit for half an hour.
2) Lift angle. It can affect the results of the measure, and can vary between 42 degrees (Vostok movements) and 56.5 (old Seiko 5). Lift angels are usually available online, and worth setting.
3) Accuracy by itself doesn’t tell you much. Important stats are beat error and amplitude.
It is possible to regulate even fifty or sixty year old movements in good condition to be +-10 seconds a day, but always let your watchmaker do the hard bit. And always remember; just because it says one thing on the Timegrapher, your accuracy may be vastly different wearing every day.
Glad somebody mentioned lift angle, the lift angle for a coaxial is in the 30s somewhere if I remember correctly. This can definitely change the readings
Can you please elaborate 3?
I didn't get why Seiko which had 0s/day(but beat error 1 ms) was not the best.
+ Temperature must be around 28°C
@@WilliamSunderland 36 degrees if memory serves me correctly.
The lift angle needs to be movement specific and not just set at 52
Agree
The watchmaker that was there on the night wasn’t too fussed about the lift angle being changed.
I would imagine he would know better.
You indeed need to set the lift angle for an accurate amplitude reading. However, not all manufacturers publish the lift angle for their movements.
The watchmaker should (and probably does) know this, he was likely only showing owners the rate and beat error to give a quick insight.
@@MarkvanVaals That may well be the case.
Yep. That might explain the strange amplitude behavior on the Omega. Lift angle is either 36 or 38 degrees on that one.
Adrian, two things: 1) lift angle, and 2) the 4R inside the Seiko can be hand wound.
Correct. The lift angle is highly important for reading the correct amplitude. You can simply look it up via Google which will lead you to the well known calibre / movement websites that will display the correct lift angle for each movement.
Yeah, I was disappointed to see that Adrian does not seem to be aware of those two points.
Also, measure the watch in different positions. Don't just measure in the dial up position because you may get misleading results. At the very least, measure by simulating the positions of a right-handed person wearing the watch on their left hand (crown down & crown left). Then you can take the average of all the readings.
He said it would take far too long to test each watch in 5 positions and I think he is correct…
@JonathanCho-ni4bv he literally said why he isn't doing that...
@@patrickjean-philippe7679 It's 6 positions - dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down, crown left, crown right. So he's even more wrong.
You know what's sad? I found this video absolutely riveting. I'm hopeless. Great video, Adrian. Thank you.
im so glad that the Omega Seamaster 300 came on top! im planning on getting one this September for my birthday! thanks for the great content Adrian!
congratulations!
Mine has been +2 since I bought it new. It hasn't lost a single second in years. It really is reliable
You'll love it. I have the white dial featured here and I really can't fault it. I daily it and check it against my laptop regularly and in the real world it gains about a second or so each day. I usually set it 15 seconds slow and when it gets to about 30 seconds fast I reset it. It's the best watch on the market right now for my money. Plus the coaxial escapement means it shouldn't require servicing very often at all.
I just got to seaweed and I haven’t stopped wearing it/appreciating it since getting it. You’re going to love it
My master chronometer omega runs at +1 second a week
My Omega Aqua Terra does the same thing. It is the most accurate watch in my collection. Bulletproof!
I’m confused as to why he said the vintage Omega is more accurate than the Seiko 5 when the Omega was +26s/day and the Seiko was +0s/day. Wouldn’t 0s be dead on accurate?
Even the lift angle was wrong for the most watches. With seiko you must wear the watch. 1 got 18 seikos the each runs ca 3 sek a day only the marine Master Run with 8 + but 5 jears always the same. The New roles 3235 New perfekt after half jear 20 sek -. The tudors New 0sek. After 2 jears -4. For the mony you pay is seiko king. Pay the same with grand seiko as a rolex it runs 1 sek a week+ after 2 jears.
I thought the same.
Yeah when I heard him say this, I stopped watching as his watch knowledge and memory recall is so poor. Maybe he's tons of knowledge about his more expensive watches but I didn't stay to find out. Awful video.
Yes, what's up with that?
He was probably thinking about the stated accuracy of the 4R movements. Seiko state their accuracy as -20 to +40 sec/day; however, that doesn't mean they can't be regulated to be more accurate; it's just means that Seiko aren't committed to regulating them to a very tight margin. They are mass producing these movements and don't want to deal with high number of warranty claims. That being said he's comparing apples to oranges here, he's dismissing the measured accuracy of the Seiko and instead comparing the stated accuracy of the Seiko to the measured accuracy of the Omega. As many have pointed out, it's just a sloppy video all around, and as much as I like Adrian's content, I think he needs to be called out for a low effort video.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the Co-Axial movement seems like the cheapest way to get a well-made, decently good looking, interestingly-engineered, and reliable mechanical movement
I agree. Due to it being frictionless it needs virtually no oil. George Daniels said that if you get it serviced every 20 years it should keep good time for 400 years. I couldn't invest in a nice watch if it didn't have the coaxial 🤷♂️ so I guess I'm limited to modern Omegas.
Note that Tudor’s new movements are also METAS certified and are cheaper than Omega. I’m a huge Omega fan but time will tell about how reliable and accurate Tudor’s are over the long term
I am a massive fan of Omega’s coaxial movement. I think it represents a leap forward in modern horology . However, my most recent purchase is a BB58 and the movement is very accurate with a nice PR for a traditional movement.
@@Antenox They're both COSC, METAS, and master chronometer certified from manufacturers with an incredible track record. I would just say that I personally love geeking out about the co-axial escapement and the ability to see the movements in even many of the dive watches. The BB and Pelagos are crazy value for the price though
Technically the ‘co-axial movement’ isn’t a thing but rather a component within the movement
I was born in 1966 and the Turn-o-Graph is working better than I am 🤣
🤣
A lot of watches are working better than you or I. 😆 🥃 P.S. Hope all is well!
😂😂😂 go-on chap!
@@rhgrabowski3855 🤣 I agree. Hope you are well my friend
,,Oo-ooh I'm a rebel just for kicks now, I've been kickin' it since 1966 now!" 🎶
The way you set down the root beer after testing it really shows you just love to wear them as how you would a G shock, absolutely love that
Made me cringe tbh. It’s a $16K watch 🥲
Boink
I saw that too. But nice watches are to be worn 🤷♂️ they need to be able to handle life.
No safe queens here. 🙌🏻
@@Mark-lj1djthere’s driving my off-road vehicle, off road and then there’s banging into my garage wall as an indicator for stopping 😅.
The amplitude readings may not be correct, as it depends on the lift angle specific to the movement. Not all movements have lift angle of 52 degrees. For example, Omega 8800 caliber has the lift angle of 36 degrees.
Especially on coaxial escapements though, the amplitude reading is always off. I think it needs a special kind of TG to get an accurate reading of the amplitude for this movement.
The auto amplitude in some timegrapher is often off. Really need to manually set the lift angle for your specific movement.
I've the same seamaster 300m (in black). This watch is just incredible. It has been hit, went throught airport, near industrial motor with big magnetisism.. and still + 0s/day for years... An unbreakable awsome watch !
Not sure about the timegraphers but my 4Rs perform exceptionally well... gaining/losing around 7-8s across a week...
A really interesting insight, thank you for putting the time into this film.
I have my own timegrapher and tried a similar experiment myself a couple of years ago. I immediately found that what the timegrapher displays in static conditions (regardless of position) varied massively from what I witnessed when wearing any particular watch over several days. For example, my Tudor Black Bay 36 (older version, ETA movement) showed around +/-3sec a day in various positions on the Timegrapher, but would be about -30sec off after wearing it for a week, while my trusty Seiko SKX would show massive variation on the Timegrapher (anything from +20sec a day to -30sec a day, depending on position) yet would be off my no more than 10sec when worn on the wrist.
I’ve since migrated to wearing mainly CWC quartz watches, and Grand Seikos with 9F movements. Problem solved!
Keep well :-)
You must change the lift angle for each caliber to the specified degrees by the manufacturer for an accurate amplitude reading.
A timegrapher is a good way to get a suggested baseline for accuracy. What it "should" be performing at.
However, using an app to keep track of the watch actually in use with all the movements, temperatures and whatever you normally put it through would be the best judge of actual accuracy.
Makes for an interesting comparison between what timegrapher tells you in static position(s) and what actual practical usage on the wrist does.
Adrian, the amplitude reading of your Omega is horribly off because you did not set the lift angle. You kept it at the default of 52 degrees. But it should be set at 36 degrees for the Omega.
Also, your Omega has a co-axial movement so your regular timegraph can't get an accurate amplitude reading even if the lift angle is set to 36 degrees. You need a different timegrapher for co-axial escapements to get a truly accurate reading.
I think the 1900 has some separate circuitry for reading Co-Ax's and that's why he is seeing the sudden amplitude change, its recognizing it and changing the reading. I'm not saying it's accurate and of course you are right about the lift angle but mine does the same.
I have a 1965 Seiko Lord Marvel running at a steady +3 seconds a day. Not bad for a watch almost as ancient as me.
My wife just bought me a timegrapher very handy tool for checking the operation of the movement.
and blood pressure.
@@michaelriera6277 my wife's fruit watch will check your heart rate and BP
Thanks for your video, I also own an Omega Seamaster Professional Bond watch and am amazed by the accuracy, I’ve had it for 3 years now and wear it daily. Last fall I monitored it over 3 months and was amazed how accurate the movement is.
You monitored a watch for 3 months? Do you also enjoy watching your nails grow? How about dust collect at the corner where the wall meets the floor? How about tumble weed…
@@michaelriera6277
I’m an engineer and I wanted to measure the accuracy of this movement, I compared it daily to an atomic clock and recorded the variations in my log. I was surprised how accurate this movement is for a mechanical watch.
Having had quite a few Omega coaxials, I can attest that their coaxial movements are the real deal. Particularly over extended service intervals. These watches stay as good as new after exceeding the 6th or 7th year after service.
On the Seiko: „Zero seconds a day is quite remarkable“. 😂
I was like uhhhhh what Sieko 5 did you get?
I have a bunch of 4r35 Seiko that run close to that. 20+ orange samurai that always runs plus 3 a day. My 6r movements.....all over the place
No its not weirdo , they are literally the easiest brand to regulate . i literally have 8 seikos running within cosc and another 2 at +5 for sub 1000 dollar watches thats fkn insane .
Zero seconds a day that 4R36 is as @rainerbuechse6923 says quite remarkable as seiko produces a lot of these movements and you can be lucky and unlucky it’s a seiko Lottery.
why do you think that they are easier to regulate?@@bigbodykarate6403
I did not understand how +26 is better than +0. Isn’t it better to have a day near the right time
I think he meant the seiko advertisement of 40/60
@@Geniusclicks So this guy is an idiot?
He compared Omega's measured accuracy against Seiko's advertised accuracy..lol. Two completely different things.
I bought a timegrapher with the intention of using it to determine whether or not my watches need servicing. Some of my watches that have passed the ‘service-due-‘date are running extremely well so, it’s saving me money!
As long as you’re not using the same watch everyday then you can really stretch out the service interval especially if the watch is relatively new (less than 15 years). The best part is you’ll be keeping the watch intact from the manufacturer longer without running the risk of opening it and potentially introducing issues that weren’t there in the first place.
I purchased an Explorer 1016 new in 1986 and it consistently gained 7 seconds per day (checked by the "beep" on the radio for the correct time). After about 8 years I had it serviced by Rolex when the crown threads began to fail (I would reset it daily). It came back gaining 4 seconds per day. Now my daughter has it - I suspect in a box. Good vid. Keep at it.
Every Omega I’ve ever had had been accurate within 1 second a day or less. Just phenomenal watches. Once I went Omega I didn’t turn back.
Any SMPc is an awesome everyday watch. I've had my 2012-2017 black lacquered dial one for seven years and counting. It looks stunning, it's accurate and well-made.
The watches start at a low amplitude and then kick up because the movement has to add momentum to the amplitude on each swing, so it takes a minute to get to full amplitude.
For instance if you and a friend are on a swing set, it's very hard to just give someone one push and get them to 180°, where the ropes of the swing are parallel to the ground. But by giving a little push each time the person goes by you can easily get them there.
Great video 👌🏻 I sold my Sub date and bought a Planet ocean because the Rolex kept horrific time from new and took a mark at the slightest touch. My Omega hasn’t skipped a beat in 10 years and is in tip top condition 👍🏻
You know? This is quite true for me too, my Rolexes never kept good time...but the Omegas they are pretty accurate.
I’ve waited for this content for a very long time. Probably one of my favourite videos of yours, thanks!
Finally. The least talked about subject! Yet at the end of the day. The MOST important
The amplitudes reported aren’t accurate since you didn’t change the lift angle for each movement
The seiko 5 I have seems up there with some of the more luxury models I have hasn't been an issue holding accurate time great value for money
I have a Longines Heritage which I kept wound for 120 days. I wore it most days. I never reset the time in that period. It varied slightly out of COSC ranges, but at the end of 120 days, it was a net 3 seconds fast. You can't beat that.
Love this video. No one talks about accuracy. Thank you Adrian.
I’d like to see real life stats… I set my Omega SMP 300 to the World clock (time.is) every few months when I travel and change time zones. It’s about +1-2 seconds a WEEK. Amazing. I found that if I set it face up at night and wind it every 4-5 days it’s almost perfect.
Plus it’s a strap monster. Looks good on rubber, original and mesh bracelets, Nato and even leather.
Hey, I think that having a habit of servicing a watch is a must for a true watch lover! Using a watch that is not serviced for more than 10 years is going to wear out metal inside watch movement and will over time render a watch inaccurate or even worse produce major movement damage... Second thing is the joy you have if you have vintage watches - to see a watch half a century old freshly serviced spot on +/- 1 sec a day is something special... Those old timepieces were made without computers and 3D models and without modern CNC machines, but they only need a little oil to run smooth as silk
I've only been into watch collecting for a few years and started out with Seiko's, 4R36 and 6r35 and moved onto Swiss watch movements sellita sw200 and ETA's 2824 . Admittedly the low end of the watch hierarchy. But the Seiko's across the board are between 0 to 5+ seconds a day, and the swiss 10 + -20+ a day. I'd love an Omega one day.
Defintely interesting to see how that stacked up. Appreciate the testing 👍🏻
Cheers Adrian, brilliant and informative video. A simple format, but tells so much about the movement of the watches and why we pay so much for them.
One of my favorite videos you’ve ever done. Practical and we got to see part of your collection.
Interesting to see how a timegrapher works, it was just a bit of fun and nice to see a broad variance of watches from old to new. Nice to see you have had your Explorer II repaired after breaking the glass whilst on a trip out. Looking forward to seeing how the watch comes back.
Finally a vid explaining how the timegrapher works and what the metrics mean. Thanks Adrian. Very informative. 🙂
I've been jealous of that Seamaster from the beginning, and Adrian got it for a steal.
Watching from Sollentuna, vacation day 6/37. GLORIOUS FREEDOM!!!!
My SMP300 from 2016 is still my most accurate watch to date. Never serviced and also my beater.
The omega amplitude jumps up because that time Grapher can't measure amplitude for coaxial movements. You need a special, more high end one, to measure coaxial amplitude
Or shake it
The amplitude jumps because is dealing with a coaxial movement and you have different sound.
My suggestion too. Older timegraphers can't deal with
co-axial movements. They simply can't hear the used to "tick" - sound and therefore jump with the amplitude. But the lift angle should be precisely set to the correct value for the specific movement.
4R36 do have manual winding. If you're shaking it around like that all the time, maybe that's why the beat error is horrendous? 😅 Anything beat error above 0.4ms needs attention. Also, amplitude readings are not correct unless you input the different lift angles (L.A.) for the different calibres. And regular timegraphers are not able to correctly interpret coaxial calibre amplitudes.
I've got a Rolex GMT Master II, but if I want to know the time with zero error, I have a Casio Wave Ceptor. It gets the exact time every night from WWV via radio signal. I think I paid about $70 for it 20 years ago. It's also solar, no batteries, no winding. Actually, it does gain 1 second in about 20 hours, but it's corrected automatically each night.
I have to say I am a bit of a nerd when it comes to watch accuracy, which you really shouldn’t be with mechanical watches! Though I don’t use a Timegrapher I set it in the morning, wear as usual for a day and check 24hrs later against my reference time (phone). This gives you a much more realistic reading. My most accurate being my Tudor Ranger with the latest movement that seriously sits at +/-0.5 spd. My Black Bay 58 at -1spd, Rolex OP at +4spd, latest model Speedy at +2spd and the worst being my 2007 Seamaster running at -6spd. Not that I’ve checked them at all!😜
COSC and METAS are mere snapshots of a watches accuracy at the time of certification. 99.9% of watches use a lever escapement, so it's this, that causes the issue. The lever escapement requires oil to function because of sliding friction. These oils deteriorate over time, thus affecting long-term accuracy. This is why they have rate issues. The co-axial on the other hand, will keep its chronometer rating, because of the escapement design. This escapement uses a pushing action, so contact friction is significantly reduced. Therefore oiling is less of a concern.
Your Omega looks gold btw. Very nice 🤩
Omega rocks! I own a speedmaster first omega in space. Highly accurate within cosc
Nice video. I had a modern Seamaster 300 also and the accuracy was terrific. Interesting to see you had the same experience.
Omega 8800 family of movements are rockstars no surprises at all. My Raily has an 8806 easily the best modern day movement in a modern watch I can think of.
I have two 1999 Omega watches and they're both +3 secs day. Love them!
Interesting. I am someone who does consider the movements within a watch when buying one. I wonder how a Tudor METAS movement would do after time. Not surprised by the Omega as they've been doing METAS for a while to have their movement process very refined.
My brand new Planet Ocean is -3sec./day. My BB Monochrome is +1sec. after 3 full day.
@@maitrehg ..interesting.
Good point
Love a timegrapher. A good way to check the health of a second hand purchase.
I recently received a new Rolex Datejust. I wore it for 61 days straight, day and night. It gained 18 seconds. So that's .295 seconds per day. I never had a watch this accurate and that test really takes into consideration differences in accuracy based on variable positions like case down, 3 down, 12 down, etc.
Adrian, the Weishi 1900 is capable of handling coaxial movements like the Omega 8800. You need to set the lift angle correctly to have the correct amplitude (anything beyond 320° is too much). To adjust the lift angle press the red button once to stop the measurement then press 'menu/speaker' twice and adjust the value via the up/down keys. For the 8800 you want to set it at 36°. Press the red button again to restart the measurement. ;-)
I have the Omega NTTD and Tudor BB58 GMT. My Omega averages + 0.5 sec/day. Last 3 days, I had 0 sec +/- While my Tudor averages + 2.8 sec a day over the last 3 weeks. Both within METAS specs, but Omega deviates a lot less. Being in the military, accurate time is important. I would zero my watch before a mission or major training exercise. Wish the Omega Ti NTTD is fixed lug, 8906 movement (jumping hour hand), Gladiator hands, and grippier bezel. Love the size, Illum., wearability, and thinness. This can be the future MilSub/Mil SMP. Just need to tweak it a little for combat use.
got my 39mm with the white dial on the 3-link "Bader" bracelet watch on MaMaCoo 3 weeks ago and am loving it to pieces. Absolute fantastic watch that wears super comfortable on my 6.75 inch wrist. Chose the 3-link over the 5-link bracelet for the toolless quick adjustment. Way more comfortable than my Longines Hydroconquest 41 mm.
I'm not at all surprised at the result. My Aqua Terra with the same movement has gone days with 0 seconds of deviation. Omega certified it for +1 seconds in 5 positions. Just amazing.
Nice video, as always. But, to the vintage Seamaster... you can't "overwind" a watch. It's impossible. The mainspring wraps around the arbor in the barrel and then it is that. When it is fully wound there just isn't anymore slack to tighten. "Overwound" watches are a term that means a movement which no longer runs and has a fully wound mainspring. This can be a broken balance staff, or a gummed up movement, etc. But it's not "overwound". Just wind your manual watches until they are fully wound and go on with your day. As long as you're not taking a vice grip to the crown you'll be fine.
This is a fun little video but there's a couple of things I'd like to advise you on as a professional watchmaker.
The first is that the time grapher doesn't just listen to the balance, specifically the sound of the impulse tool hitting the horns. It also listens for and repeats the sound of the escape wheel striking the pallet Stones which is the where the audible ticking in a watch comes from.
Second I noticed that you left the default lift angle of 52° on all the watches. That is only a default setting, and without setting that accurately for each different movement, many of which I am sure have a different lift angle than 52°, your amplitude numbers are not going to be accurate or comparable. You can still get a general idea of whether or not the watch is running well, but you have to get that lift angle right to get truly accurate data from a Time grapher.
Fortunately a lot of people publish tables of lift angles so all you have to do is Google lift angle and the movement number and you can find it.
I'm subscribing and looking forward to seeing more!
I have my dad’s Omega that is exactly like your grandfather’s DeVille…even on the same type strap. I had my local Omega/Rolex guy service it a couple of years ago. I wear it every couple of weeks. Keeps great time.
Oof! The way you just chucked that rootbeer down on that table made me gasp. 😁
My two Omega SMP's; one full Sedna & the other the black dial two-tone both run at between +1-2 sec/day. My Rolex YM 40 two-tone black dial runs at 0/day (over ~6 weeks, worn everyday when I first bought it) & my two-tone Tudor BB GMT "rootbeer" is running at -1. My two "dailies" - Bremont H1 Fury blue -2 per day & Tudor Coke +2 secs.
My CW's: two original LE Bel Cantos & C60 Chrono...no idea!
Go Omega! I have tried testing my Aqua terra (2023 small seconds) vs my Explorer 40 (2024) on accuracy by setting both Hour/Minute hands and second hand on the exact same time. After 1 week of using them, they kept the same time. I was planning to try more than 30days of testing to really see the results, but thanks to your video and the timegrapher machine, did it in a few minutes. Surprised with the Seiko sports because mine runs late, but even more surprised with the Sub results of +13secs!! Omega Metas certificate is no joke, results are 0/+5sec/day. you would never be late!
Thanks for explaining the time grapher. Maybe a de magnetiser for £10 next before shelling out for a service.
Can you do a video on your Mark XX?? (with strap options)
They are a beast and strap monster it's my perfect watch
A great and really informative video - my most accurate watch is a 2022 40mm Longines Legend Diver that is accurate to about 1-2 seconds/day. Even my two Rolexes and a Montblanc cannot match that. Cheers, Chas T
Video's like this always cause a little smile to form on my face. I love my mechanical watches for what they are....works of engineering artwork, and many times, pieces of history. But when I talk or think about accuracy, a mechanical watch is never a part of the conversation. My Bulova Lunar Pilot, and even a $70 AliExpress Seiko homage watch I bought on a whim would decimate any of the mechanical watches on your table (or mine) when it comes to pure accuracy with their Seiko VK Quartz movements. And because they're quartz they require no winding and almost no service. Your Omega (and my red dial Aqua Terra) are gorgeous and something to aspire to own, but again, not based on their accuracy. And let's be honest, how many of us wear a mechanical watch enough week to week to keep the movement going anyway. So if you're likely to have to reset it when you do get around to wearing it, who cares how accurate it really is. Just my $.02.
Explorer I works great after so long and that Omega is just amazing to see.
@BarkandJack, The Weishi timegraphers glitch a bit at first with Omega Co-Axials, because it uses a different release system. Thats why you have this weird reading at first.
Amazed that the Seiko 5 has such great accuracy, it somehow crept through QAQC undetected!
Mm-hmm...
If you own a lot of watches a time grapher is a must to keep an eye on watch health. Especially vintage.
I was waiting for the BB58, but thank you anyways for this interesting format !
One thing to pay attention to when testing amplitude of watches, is the lift angle. The lift angle only changes the amplitude measurement and I believe on the Omega 8800 it is 36 degrees. A 346 degree amplitude is too high and to be expected when measuring with a 52 degree lift angle. I would try the seamaster again at a 36 and see what it says!
Also some Timegrapher a have a special measuring mode for the coaxial escapement so I would also look to see if your has that!
Cheers great video!
You can track the Co-axial movement back to 1980 when George Daniel’s patented it.. of all the brands he too it too.. Omega chose to use it and worked with him to integrate it into the watches… that’s why the movement is so kick ass… it goes way back to one of the finest horologists and watch makers of the current era.. and only Roger Smith has been honoured to fallow in his footsteps.. awesome video Mr Barker..
Always wanted to know how these flipping machines actually worked 😎
So you honestly didn’t know how these “flipping “ machines worked?
Great video! I need a timegrapher. just for the fun of it.
Amplitude in the 230s is actually good and in spec for a Seiko. Minimum would be more like 190, targeting 220 for that movement. A lot of care can get it higher but the factory would ship it at 220.
Interesting video is very important the accuracy of a watch. If all watches were COSC classified it will be a more accurate test. Christopher Ward, which I have one of is COSC classified, it’s the C60 tide ,it gains and loses half a second a day. The Christopher Ward in this video is not COSC classified. If a watch was gaining 20 seconds a day. I would sent it straight back.
Love this content Adrian!
Thanks mate. It was really interesting to make.
Agreed. I enjoyed this one too.
Great video and I love my mechanical watches but it certainly makes a case for Precisionist and other quartz movements.
My Rolex OP Date, cal 1570, 19.8K bph, circa 1965, has been keeping -1, +2 sec per day for the last 10 yrs.
However that’s by checking its time several times a week. Not beat error. On the grapher it indicates about +10.
Hi Adrian,
Your Grandad's Omega Seamaster would date to the late 1960s, which is when Omega released the Cal 613.
Kind regards
This video was your best yet!
While I am seriously, seriously happy with my Black Bay 54. One day I'll own an Omega, for the movement alone. Top tier watch making, that's AD accessible and without the status hype shenanigans.
Grail worthy stuff.
Keep the content coming Adrian 😊
P.S. BB54 accuracy = Worn -1 sec/day. Stored overnight face down +1 sec so can be nigh bang on.
Seiko seems very accurate right??
Zero seconds per day is well, pretty accurate.
For my Seamaster I can say, it runs differently depends on the site I’m laying down the watch over the night. If the dial is on the top, the watch runs about +1to2 Seconds, if I’m laying down the watch with the crown to the top, it runs around -2to3 seconds.
Been watching your videos for a while now and was inspired to start a collection. Started with the MAMACOO, its specs for price and clean looks, now am looking for a dress watch to add.
I've recently began my obsession as a watch collector. And i must say- out of all the luxury brands I've been researching, for me the amzwatch's watches are the most intriguing.
I've managed to calibrate both my automatics to about +10 seconds a day flat and face up, however, there's quite a bit of orientation variance for both but more so for one of them. This means that both watches do indeed perform differently during daily wear, to the point that I would say just measuring one position is not that useful.
Sadly this is also why I prefer quartz to mechanicals, sure they both eventually need a service. But a watch that uses a precision-engineered crystal resonator that harnesses the piezoelectric properties of quartz to maintain exceptionally accurate timekeeping rather than just a thingy bouncing back and forth is just more dependable overall.
My 2021 Omega Diver300 and especially my Planet Ocean is the most accurate movement I had have, much more accurate than any Rolex I have owned. If I take my Planet Ocean on a holiday, wearing it 10 hours a day, it will be offset by 1 second in a week, its crazy!
Love the omega and Seiko ❤. You should do this every year.
There are actually Timegraphers that have a setting for Coaxial movements from what I have read so that may explain the amplitude jump. I own two of the SMP 300s with the 8800 movement and they do perform very well. My Seiko Captain Willard is the lest accurate in my collection.
superb video... replayed twice!!
Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Caliber 9RA2 -- 0,5 sec / day.