dude you are a life saver, my clutch assembly slipped out of my hand and went all over the bench before i could pull it apart and even with 2 manuals i couldn't tell which way that judder spring went back in and yours was the only video that actually provided that kind of important information, all the other idiots are too busy going fast forward to be worth a crap. soo thanks a lot man, i was pulling my hair out until i found your video.........
@@restoroosterohv yeah well i might have spoke too soon, after putting bike back together i rode down and got gas the clutch was/is working flawlessly came home the bike sat for a few hours then jumped on it made it half block and suddenly a loud ticking started coming out of the case and the engine started running really rough like it jumped time, i babied it home and while idling really badly i went to pull the oil fill cap to see if i could tell what was ticking but the pressure blew the cap out of my hand and tons of smoke came out of the oil fill hole, can you think of anything i could have done wrong just changing the clutch and springs that could have caused this, the bikes only got 13k miles on it, i've done lots of clutches in my 40+ years owning bikes and never had anything like this happen before............
@@abruptlyblunt Silly question, did you have the oil level topped off? If you followed my vid, there isn't anything you could have put together incorrectly. You may need to pull the cover to be sure no bolts backed out inside. One of my subs posted this a while back you may want to check as it has to do with the oil pump drive: "Bonus tip, there's four little pegs on the drive shaft that have to fit into the back of the clutch basket. After putting the basket in, lightly push inward and spin the oil pump chain directly below the clutch to ensure it's seated. If it moves, it's not seated."
Bonus tip, there's four little pegs on the drive shaft that have to fit into the back of the clutch basket. After putting the basket in, lightly push inward and spin the oil pump chain directly below the clutch to ensure it's seated. If it moves, it's not seated. Also, ensure your clutch springs are the proper length or your gonna have a bad time.
Thanks man, I just bought a bike to find out the clutch is bad. I feared the worst. But after watching this video I feel completely confident I can do this project myself at home.
Thanks Finally a video on my exact bike. now I have the confidence to start this job. Also nice clear video ( no annoying backround music or hours of watching you turn every screw :-).
Good evening, thanks for the video! There is a small error, the first drive B is installed in the clutch basket in its own place and not with a common package of frictions in one line. 11:13
Appreciate the comment. Honda does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the provisions to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.
Man love the video I’ve been all over RUclips looking for a video on how to replace clutch on 2002 shadow spirit. Love the in depth video. I have the same bike my also white keep up the awesome work man
Your camera placement is absolutely beautiful. Seen a few videoswith the same process and bike, but this one feels better elaborated and a big reason the cameras. Good job man. Real easy to follow
Iv got a 03 shadow 750 ace it does have the same motor ..that's so far the most detailed video on the clutch iv seen mine is slipping a little but will still go plan to replace it soon ...but hey nice bike I do like it man sounds good
Watched this twice, EXCELLENT! Sometime during the process of taking the clutch apart, I ended up with an extra flat washer. Much bigger than the two that were behind the clutch hub nut. Now I have no idea where it came from. I looked on the ground after removing the basket and it was there. Any ideas??
Do you see it here? www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/15?FirstChoice=HOM&SecondChoice=1188&ThirdChoice=2610&FourthChoice=2665&assemblySchematic=349987
Hay man I really appreciate this video , I wanted to ask you , I seem to have found a gasket on partzilla that says it fits the bike would you recommend using that or should I stick with the silicone?
Awesome video! After doing some research and thoroughly reading through my service manual I noticed that the first friction clutch plate which is the smallest one is not designed to be put in the same way as the rest of the clutch plates. There is a shallow channel next to the channel where the normal clutch plates go into. The shallow channel is specifically for that smaller clutch plate. I have set my bike up the way you are showing and the way I’m talking about and there is a substantial difference. Just wanted to let you know. Again awesome video!
Are you talking about the last friction disc to go in? If so, yes Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.
How do the springs even work if there tightened all the way down and have no play? Clutch cable has tons of play that I can't get out. New Clutch center, new plates new springs and new cable. Installed.
Hi, thanks for the video. I replaced my clutch in my 99 Shadow ACE 750 Deluxe. I can’t get the bike to pull consistently. I’ve got the manual and adjusted the clutch with the correct amount of free play… the engine barely hooks up and I can rev the engine and it is for sure slipping bad. No real bite to the clutch at all. I used Oriley’s house brand oil for motorcycles with a wet clutch. I’m not sure what to do. I’ve been inside it twice and everything looks good compared to the service manual. Any ideas before I order another clutch?
If you've got the correct amount of steel and fiber discs, in the correct order and the proper freeplay, the clutch may be incorrect. It wouldn't be the first time I have seen it.
Being that the oil is affordable I can change it more often especially on my off-road machines. I am not hard on my equipment personally so I could continue to follow recommendations.
Not sure if you're still following I just got done throwing everything together was looking for a manual so I could figure out what the torque specs were ran into your video and now my issue is that washer you were talking about being concave convex whatever I'm missing it it looks like someone has already had this thing apart and the clutch was slipping on me so I thought the clutch plates were bad I'm wondering if it's that washer and if so I have no clue what that's called to order a new one and they also had the small friction on the inside and not on the outside like what you're showing
If you need a downloadable service repair manual for any of your projects, use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024! shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988... Discount code: RESTOROOSTER22
dude perfect freaking timing on this upload. I am about to do my clutch on my 05 spirit 750. Do you happen to have a link to where you purchased? I found a lot of different options on amazon and there were any reviews I saw on the clutch kits I saw there. Thanks for the straight forward video!
Is the smallest clutch plate on the inner most part of the hub critical? I installed my clutch, tightened the cable to get good resistance on the clutch lever but when i try to put the bike in gear it just lunges forward and stalls
Mine is exactly doing that after I took apart and put back. I exactly put back the same way that it came out . Did you firgure out why it's doing this. Please help
Thanks for share i have a question are you use diesel oil for all your bikes? This is better than a motorcycle oil? I have a 2008 yamaha stratoliner can i use diesel oil? Thanks
The Rotella diesel oils have a descent amount of detergents and anti-wear additives (boron, phosphorus, zinc, calcium and magnesium) akin to or better than “premium” oils at a great price. I have been using T4 in my KX450F (all my bikes) for many years with tremendous abuse. The oil is clean with no metal when changing. Yes, you can use the T4 in your Yamaha. Don’t use any synthetic oil with the wet clutch unless it is designed for it.
I did everything in your video exactly the same and I’ve been in there twice and I still can’t get it to work. If I pull the clutch lever it’s super tight and the bike still moves. I’ve snapped 2 cables trying to figure it out
I wish I could be more help to you. Not being able to see what you are working on and if everything is properly in place. I would strongly recommend a service manual. Use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024! shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988&u=4229791&m=49176&urllink=&afftrack=
All the friction discs but one will be the same. The odd disc will be the one toward the outside and clock it off a notch into the shallow grooves of the clutch basket. It honestly won't make a difference if you do or not but that is what Honda recommends.
On a 2015 vt 750 phantom, do you absoloutly need to take off the pipes? (Readers may help me out too) And are there non- reusable tiny parts? (Springs, washers, bolts screws etc)
I’m not sure about absolutely taking off the exhaust but it certainly will make it easier. I believe that Honda wants you to replace all fasteners when they are removed but who does that?
I believe they are the same through 2007. www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627?fits=Submodel%3AVT750DC%7CYear%3A2006%7CModel%3AShadow+Spirit+750%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item441e010d9b:g:1YwAAOSwQN1a9zfz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABEHu7FSGx074xHnfMxV%2B8CwzPIteKGMceQzaX5fU3TSlHC0Dk7mBlExEpXIeePSPZC9OgTY5Cx5ENgSVxeZmp0IHFjix3CsJgvZlsNiQXpiADkOx9s0sBVls%2FGIwRVllaxWAs3fRO%2FmmGfAS4OEKH8J0IkWtVw9VwxGm54OMeNcxMzJmQeyU6xLYPo2y6ZLLBleCWJJyqf%2FNnrdDEBaciWD2Q6vMCz2UPD%2BFvlx5xEH%2FetYe%2BTYun6BvzZ%2B1uC68xGEZhuXwUbsPjHoknGAmqdte89%2FzBnydvRvxSuuawLbfjIn7GWrOQ2gE30bsFcD0wDxNK9P6XwN3kwsh7qNLLF32NQhDaKRnWzAbG%2BQtiwizF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6KPnp-_YA
Im struggling taking out that center nut holding everything together and i was hoping this video had how you took it off if there was a special tool or something
They do make a tool that will hold the center clutch hub. It is much easier to use an impact gun to remove the nut. If you don’t have access to that, you can shift the bike up to high gear, hold the rear brake and break the nut loose with a ratchet. Keep in mind, there is a thin locking washer behind that nut and the tabs are bent over the flat sides of the nut, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it away from the nut before trying to unscrew it.
@@MrPetRooster I eventually got it. Had to use a good bit of leverage and wedge a screw driver in there to lock the bish in place. These YT guys had me laughing with every video though. "Just twist the nut off with your fingers, holding it in place with your thumb to stop spinning"
Synthetic oil design for wet clutches is ok . My last change was rotella T-6 design for wet clutches even on the jug it's approved for motorcycles. If you have engine/ transmission noise it definitely stopped it
Absolutely, it's just pricey (for the "name brands"). Not sure about the T-6 being okay for wet clutches. It does have a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle but nothing that says that its suitable for wet clutches. I'll do some research on it. Thanks for your comment.
Never a dumb question. Say you are comparing a 15W-40 HDEO or Mixed fleet diesel oil, with a 10W-40 conventional passenger car oil. The 15W-40 "diesel" oil wins in a lot of things: It will have stouter base stocks. Viscosity is pretty much guaranteed to be higher ( viscosity at 300F ) They pretty much always have high levels of ZDDP which is an additive used to prevent camshaft wear on old flat tappet engines. It will probably have a Higher Total Base Number, which is the oil's ability to fight off acids. It will probably have more detergents and dispersants which will keep the engine clean. They require less Viscosity index improvers, which means the oil will maintain its viscosity for longer, and also VIIs create deposits when destroyed and form deposits inside the engine. It will probably even be cheaper than a 10W-40 Passenger car oil! Keep in mind oil companies have in mind that a 15W-40 HDEO will be used in equipment that is worth sometimes hundreds of thousands of dollars, they cannot afford to have an engine failure caused by one of their oils, so they put a lot of effort into designing these oils. Plagiarized from the internet, describes it the best haha.
It’s always best to try and warm the engine before chancing the oil. In a lot of the builds I do, I don’t have that luxury as either the engine is damaged when I get it or after repair I don’t want to run the old oil through a new engine. Thanks for watching.
I think you forgot to offset the last/smallest friction plate.... in other videos that's what they do. It's set in a different groove from the other plates.
Yes. Many have mentioned this since posting this video. I should have clocked the disc as per the manual at least for the video however, it will not affect clutch operation in any way. Honda does this to reduce stress on the basket. Aftermarket baskets don’t have these provisions and all discs will be stacked. Thanks for your comment.
When it starts slipping. Really depends on your riding style. A bike can go its entire life on the factory clutch if oil changes are done regularly and it isn’t abused.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, according to the manual, Honda states to clock the last plate. I rarely do. Some aftermarket baskets don’t even provide the notches. 1000 miles on the clutch with nary an issue.
did anyone happen to save their old shadow clutch springs and can provide the springs dimensions, inner, outer diameter, length and wire size? Can't find anything but stock replacements springs and need something stronger because i'm running tall highway gears....
Great video! Where did you order the clutch kit from? I found a Barnett performance kit for $170. But if yoir was under $100 and works for you any help on the one you got is appreciated
I'm not sure if you're getting this but I did everything you did the same way and now my bike is making a knocking sound. To much oil maybe or not enough I used 2.5 quarts , maybe loose the clutch cable a little
@@restoroosterohv yes I even pinned the metal thing I know where I went wrong now, I didn't fill the oil filter with oil so the 2.5 quarts is not enough. Question is Lucas oil good for bikes I use it in my trucks??
@@randycarr2650 glad you were able to figure it out. Most oils will be fine in your bike. I would caution against any semi or full synthetic oils unless they are specifically designed for wet clutch systems. I just prefer the shell Rotella diesel oil because it has higher antiwear additives similar to the higher end oils at a great price
@@MrPetRooster I called the honda guys and they said to back the filter off to release the air bubble that's making the knock wish me luck lol your video was great and thank you for getting back to me be safe my friend
Appreciate the comment. Yamaha does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the ability to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.
@@MrPetRooster Thanks for the reply. Very nice video btw. I recently did the clutch on my 2001 Honda Shadow 600 and forgot to clock it and had to redo that portion. I wasn't aware of the purpose for offsetting the last plate. Thanks for explaining. Be well.
I appreciate the feedback. I am aware that some manufacturers suggest clocking the last friction disc by one groove. This clutch had never been replaced and was not staggered when I took it apart so I reassembled it as it was. Honestly, it really won’t make any difference.
It was staggered I had to look at your video twice. And it does make a difference, just like the torque spec matters on the clutch assembly nut. Difference between hope it lasts and I know it will. 🤷♂️
Was about to replay with same thing, all Honda Shadows have that last smaller grip disc going into single disc slot at outter edge. Nice to see Im not the only one that caught that.
I noticed you didnt place the front disc on the upper groove. Whoever is following this video now. Know that the front disc goes offset to the other ones
Yes, Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.
@@restoroosterohv i have installed the pads and when put the cover back on and re attach the clutch cable it wont engage the clutch it is all lose at my lever and doesn't spring back or have resistance. like my push rod for the clutch is not engaging, like the rod is not hitting it or something. and when ya install the pads should the inner part be able to spin when i tighten down the locking nut before installing the clutch springs and plate it stops being able to spit.
@@nottogood415 When the springs are tightened, the entire unit will be locked together as one. Did you adjust the cable to take the slack out? Also, are you sure you put the pusher back in the outer clutch cover (15:05 in the video)?
@@restoroosterohv never had to take the pusher out. the lever thing you attach the cable to is really easy to push to the right like how it gets pulled by the clutch cable. i can do it really easy by hand there is no tension. ok and before the springs because when i tighten up the center clutch nut. i can't move it either is it meant to be all locked together then as well. because there is no movement what so ever when try spin it .
@@nottogood415 if you can’t turn anything, my guess is you may have dropped a space/washer or it is not put together in the correct order. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2003/vt750dca-a-shadow-spirit-750/clutch
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dude you are a life saver, my clutch assembly slipped out of my hand and went all over the bench before i could pull it apart and even with 2 manuals i couldn't tell which way that judder spring went back in and yours was the only video that actually provided that kind of important information, all the other idiots are too busy going fast forward to be worth a crap. soo thanks a lot man, i was pulling my hair out until i found your video.........
That’s why I do it, to help or make it easier for the next guy. Thanks for your support and feedback.
@@restoroosterohv yeah well i might have spoke too soon, after putting bike back together i rode down and got gas the clutch was/is working flawlessly came home the bike sat for a few hours then jumped on it made it half block and suddenly a loud ticking started coming out of the case and the engine started running really rough like it jumped time, i babied it home and while idling really badly i went to pull the oil fill cap to see if i could tell what was ticking but the pressure blew the cap out of my hand and tons of smoke came out of the oil fill hole, can you think of anything i could have done wrong just changing the clutch and springs that could have caused this, the bikes only got 13k miles on it, i've done lots of clutches in my 40+ years owning bikes and never had anything like this happen before............
@@abruptlyblunt Silly question, did you have the oil level topped off? If you followed my vid, there isn't anything you could have put together incorrectly. You may need to pull the cover to be sure no bolts backed out inside.
One of my subs posted this a while back you may want to check as it has to do with the oil pump drive:
"Bonus tip, there's four little pegs on the drive shaft that have to fit into the back of the clutch basket. After putting the basket in, lightly push inward and spin the oil pump chain directly below the clutch to ensure it's seated. If it moves, it's not seated."
It's a 27 mm socket for the clutch basket nut, not the 30 mm. An impact does a good job on breaking it loose. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
It’s been a while. You’re probably right. Thanks for letting us know and for your support.
Bonus tip, there's four little pegs on the drive shaft that have to fit into the back of the clutch basket. After putting the basket in, lightly push inward and spin the oil pump chain directly below the clutch to ensure it's seated. If it moves, it's not seated.
Also, ensure your clutch springs are the proper length or your gonna have a bad time.
Thanks man, I just bought a bike to find out the clutch is bad. I feared the worst. But after watching this video I feel completely confident I can do this project myself at home.
No problem, you’ve got this.
It is December. In wisconsin, hearing those birds does my heart good
Yeah, you’ve got a little ways to go. Hang in there.
Thanks Finally a video on my exact bike. now I have the confidence to start this job. Also nice clear video ( no annoying backround music or hours of watching you turn every screw :-).
Thank you for the feedback. You’ve got this!
Good evening, thanks for the video! There is a small error, the first drive B is installed in the clutch basket in its own place and not with a common package of frictions in one line. 11:13
Appreciate the comment. Honda does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the provisions to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.
Man love the video I’ve been all over RUclips looking for a video on how to replace clutch on 2002 shadow spirit. Love the in depth video. I have the same bike my also white keep up the awesome work man
Appreciate the feedback. Glad I could help.
Your camera placement is absolutely beautiful. Seen a few videoswith the same process and bike, but this one feels better elaborated and a big reason the cameras. Good job man. Real easy to follow
Thank you for your feedback and support!
This was an awesome video! Very informative very clear! Thanks for the help. You just saved me 500 bucks!
Appreciate the feedback. Glad I can help.
Iv got a 03 shadow 750 ace it does have the same motor ..that's so far the most detailed video on the clutch iv seen mine is slipping a little but will still go plan to replace it soon ...but hey nice bike I do like it man sounds good
Thank you for your comment and support.
Watched this twice, EXCELLENT! Sometime during the process of taking the clutch apart, I ended up with an extra flat washer. Much bigger than the two that were behind the clutch hub nut. Now I have no idea where it came from. I looked on the ground after removing the basket and it was there. Any ideas??
Do you see it here?
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/15?FirstChoice=HOM&SecondChoice=1188&ThirdChoice=2610&FourthChoice=2665&assemblySchematic=349987
Great stuff! Thanks for the tutorial!
You’re welcome, thanks for watching
Hay man I really appreciate this video , I wanted to ask you , I seem to have found a gasket on partzilla that says it fits the bike would you recommend using that or should I stick with the silicone?
Saludos desde Puerto Rico.
70k fixing to do mine...
hard to imagine 21 years old.
lowered and regeared 72mph/50mpg with a tailwind
36t back end 170/80 tire rear, she goes.
very informative clip .any advice on how to reinstall the clutch lifter arm inside the clutch case ?
Where did you get your plate kit from? Not sure what to go with and I’d rather not spend a ton on a burnett
www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627
Cheap kit and still working great to this day
Awesome video! After doing some research and thoroughly reading through my service manual I noticed that the first friction clutch plate which is the smallest one is not designed to be put in the same way as the rest of the clutch plates. There is a shallow channel next to the channel where the normal clutch plates go into. The shallow channel is specifically for that smaller clutch plate. I have set my bike up the way you are showing and the way I’m talking about and there is a substantial difference. Just wanted to let you know. Again awesome video!
Are you talking about the last friction disc to go in? If so, yes Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.
@@restoroosterohv Glad to hear you know of both ways to install the clutch. Unfortunately many people don’t. Have a great day.
How do the springs even work if there tightened all the way down and have no play? Clutch cable has tons of play that I can't get out. New Clutch center, new plates new springs and new cable. Installed.
Very good video thank you followed your mechanical knowledge perfect keep up the good work cheers from Australia
Thank you for your feedback and support!
How many miles was on it when you had to replace. Mine is the same model and color as yours
It was about 9k. Clutch was still fine just grabbing a bit further out. Clutch wear will depend on operator abuse.
@@restoroosterohv I installed stiffer springs on mine that took care of it
Hi, thanks for the video. I replaced my clutch in my 99 Shadow ACE 750 Deluxe. I can’t get the bike to pull consistently. I’ve got the manual and adjusted the clutch with the correct amount of free play… the engine barely hooks up and I can rev the engine and it is for sure slipping bad. No real bite to the clutch at all. I used Oriley’s house brand oil for motorcycles with a wet clutch. I’m not sure what to do. I’ve been inside it twice and everything looks good compared to the service manual. Any ideas before I order another clutch?
If you've got the correct amount of steel and fiber discs, in the correct order and the proper freeplay, the clutch may be incorrect. It wouldn't be the first time I have seen it.
I got everything complete. But oil is now leaking from the clutch cable goes into the cover. Is there a seal there?
Yes, there absolutely is.
큰 도움이 되었습니다 감사합니다
You’re welcome. Thank you.
Thanks for the well detailed video. Nice job 👍🏼
Thank you for your support and feedback
How does using Rotella t4 change your oil and filters change schedule as compared to following the manual?
Being that the oil is affordable I can change it more often especially on my off-road machines. I am not hard on my equipment personally so I could continue to follow recommendations.
Do you tighten the springs until it stops turning?
Yes. Tighten slowly in a star pattern.
@restoroosterohv I did that but I can't get my clutch to engage
@34feemster it’s not installed correctly
I think I got the wrong clutch kit but thanks man I appreciate the help
@34feemster you’re not the first to have that problem and that could certainly impact your clutch engagement.
Thank you! Great video and very educational. I feel ready to tackle this job. Also thank you for not having a background music.
Thanks for the feedback. You can do it.
Not sure if you're still following I just got done throwing everything together was looking for a manual so I could figure out what the torque specs were ran into your video and now my issue is that washer you were talking about being concave convex whatever I'm missing it it looks like someone has already had this thing apart and the clutch was slipping on me so I thought the clutch plates were bad I'm wondering if it's that washer and if so I have no clue what that's called to order a new one and they also had the small friction on the inside and not on the outside like what you're showing
Also the small disk was on the inside not on the outside
If you need a downloadable service repair manual for any of your projects, use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024!
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988...
Discount code: RESTOROOSTER22
dude perfect freaking timing on this upload. I am about to do my clutch on my 05 spirit 750. Do you happen to have a link to where you purchased? I found a lot of different options on amazon and there were any reviews I saw on the clutch kits I saw there. Thanks for the straight forward video!
Glad I can help. As of 2022-3-18 this is available.
www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627
Is the smallest clutch plate on the inner most part of the hub critical?
I installed my clutch, tightened the cable to get good resistance on the clutch lever but when i try to put the bike in gear it just lunges forward and stalls
All of the plates are critical.
Mine is exactly doing that after I took apart and put back. I exactly put back the same way that it came out . Did you firgure out why it's doing this. Please help
Same issue. Browsing for an answer if anyone has one..
Thanks for share i have a question are you use diesel oil for all your bikes? This is better than a motorcycle oil? I have a 2008 yamaha stratoliner can i use diesel oil? Thanks
The Rotella diesel oils have a descent amount of detergents and anti-wear additives (boron, phosphorus, zinc, calcium and magnesium) akin to or better than “premium” oils at a great price. I have been using T4 in my KX450F (all my bikes) for many years with tremendous abuse. The oil is clean with no metal when changing.
Yes, you can use the T4 in your Yamaha. Don’t use any synthetic oil with the wet clutch unless it is designed for it.
I did everything in your video exactly the same and I’ve been in there twice and I still can’t get it to work. If I pull the clutch lever it’s super tight and the bike still moves. I’ve snapped 2 cables trying to figure it out
I wish I could be more help to you. Not being able to see what you are working on and if everything is properly in place. I would strongly recommend a service manual.
Use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024!
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988&u=4229791&m=49176&urllink=&afftrack=
Any particular way the actual clutch plates go in as far as size or front or back?
All the friction discs but one will be the same. The odd disc will be the one toward the outside and clock it off a notch into the shallow grooves of the clutch basket. It honestly won't make a difference if you do or not but that is what Honda recommends.
On a 2015 vt 750 phantom, do you absoloutly need to take off the pipes? (Readers may help me out too)
And are there non- reusable tiny parts? (Springs, washers, bolts screws etc)
I’m not sure about absolutely taking off the exhaust but it certainly will make it easier.
I believe that Honda wants you to replace all fasteners when they are removed but who does that?
Would the procedure be the same doe a 2006? Where do you get the part numbers and who did you get your parts from?
I believe they are the same through 2007.
www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627?fits=Submodel%3AVT750DC%7CYear%3A2006%7CModel%3AShadow+Spirit+750%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item441e010d9b:g:1YwAAOSwQN1a9zfz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABEHu7FSGx074xHnfMxV%2B8CwzPIteKGMceQzaX5fU3TSlHC0Dk7mBlExEpXIeePSPZC9OgTY5Cx5ENgSVxeZmp0IHFjix3CsJgvZlsNiQXpiADkOx9s0sBVls%2FGIwRVllaxWAs3fRO%2FmmGfAS4OEKH8J0IkWtVw9VwxGm54OMeNcxMzJmQeyU6xLYPo2y6ZLLBleCWJJyqf%2FNnrdDEBaciWD2Q6vMCz2UPD%2BFvlx5xEH%2FetYe%2BTYun6BvzZ%2B1uC68xGEZhuXwUbsPjHoknGAmqdte89%2FzBnydvRvxSuuawLbfjIn7GWrOQ2gE30bsFcD0wDxNK9P6XwN3kwsh7qNLLF32NQhDaKRnWzAbG%2BQtiwizF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6KPnp-_YA
Im struggling taking out that center nut holding everything together and i was hoping this video had how you took it off if there was a special tool or something
They do make a tool that will hold the center clutch hub. It is much easier to use an impact gun to remove the nut. If you don’t have access to that, you can shift the bike up to high gear, hold the rear brake and break the nut loose with a ratchet. Keep in mind, there is a thin locking washer behind that nut and the tabs are bent over the flat sides of the nut, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it away from the nut before trying to unscrew it.
How is every video on RUclips removing that center hub nut so easily and mine refuses to stop spinning or come off
Unfortunately it is probably stripped.
@@MrPetRooster I eventually got it. Had to use a good bit of leverage and wedge a screw driver in there to lock the bish in place. These YT guys had me laughing with every video though. "Just twist the nut off with your fingers, holding it in place with your thumb to stop spinning"
@reggiet1086 sorry, I thought you were saying the nut was spinning. I use an impact to remove the nut.
Is this the same clutch as the Shadow ACE?
As long as it is a 750, I believe it is the same.
Can confirm.
Synthetic oil design for wet clutches is ok . My last change was rotella T-6 design for wet clutches even on the jug it's approved for motorcycles. If you have engine/ transmission noise it definitely stopped it
Absolutely, it's just pricey (for the "name brands"). Not sure about the T-6 being okay for wet clutches. It does have a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle but nothing that says that its suitable for wet clutches. I'll do some research on it. Thanks for your comment.
Ok this might be a dumb question, but why diesel engine oil? You really got me curious there
Never a dumb question.
Say you are comparing a 15W-40 HDEO or Mixed fleet diesel oil, with a 10W-40 conventional passenger car oil. The 15W-40 "diesel" oil wins in a lot of things: It will have stouter base stocks. Viscosity is pretty much guaranteed to be higher ( viscosity at 300F ) They pretty much always have high levels of ZDDP which is an additive used to prevent camshaft wear on old flat tappet engines. It will probably have a Higher Total Base Number, which is the oil's ability to fight off acids. It will probably have more detergents and dispersants which will keep the engine clean. They require less Viscosity index improvers, which means the oil will maintain its viscosity for longer, and also VIIs create deposits when destroyed and form deposits inside the engine. It will probably even be cheaper than a 10W-40 Passenger car oil! Keep in mind oil companies have in mind that a 15W-40 HDEO will be used in equipment that is worth sometimes hundreds of thousands of dollars, they cannot afford to have an engine failure caused by one of their oils, so they put a lot of effort into designing these oils. Plagiarized from the internet, describes it the best haha.
@@restoroosterohv well, I'm in the trucking business and have nere really thought about it. Thanks!
Would this be the same procedure as a 2000 Honda shadow ace VT750?
I believe it should be the same.
Todo explicado perfectamente gracias
when you change the oil, engine need to be hot, not cold... just a tip for long lasting engine, good luck.
It’s always best to try and warm the engine before chancing the oil. In a lot of the builds I do, I don’t have that luxury as either the engine is damaged when I get it or after repair I don’t want to run the old oil through a new engine. Thanks for watching.
I think you forgot to offset the last/smallest friction plate.... in other videos that's what they do. It's set in a different groove from the other plates.
Yes. Many have mentioned this since posting this video. I should have clocked the disc as per the manual at least for the video however, it will not affect clutch operation in any way. Honda does this to reduce stress on the basket. Aftermarket baskets don’t have these provisions and all discs will be stacked. Thanks for your comment.
@@restoroosterohvThat's great! Thanks for your reply!🙂
Great video! ,👍
Thank you for watching and for your support
Nice Job, Ty..
...very good job..easy to follow... iloved the tighten nut with biggest air ratchet possible and tighten untill it stops or runs out of air...lol
Thanks for your comment and your support. Glad you enjoyed the video.
How often do I replace
When it starts slipping. Really depends on your riding style. A bike can go its entire life on the factory clutch if oil changes are done regularly and it isn’t abused.
Thns great video
Thank you for your support and feedback
The last friction disc was installed incorrectly. It fits into its slots
Thanks for your comment. Yes, according to the manual, Honda states to clock the last plate. I rarely do. Some aftermarket baskets don’t even provide the notches. 1000 miles on the clutch with nary an issue.
Cuánto de aceite lleva el motor de la shadow
2.7 cuartos estadounidenses con cambio de filtro
did anyone happen to save their old shadow clutch springs and can provide the springs dimensions, inner, outer diameter, length and wire size? Can't find anything but stock replacements springs and need something stronger because i'm running tall highway gears....
I changed the gearing on my shadow as well to drop the rpms on the highway. Running the stock springs with no adverse affects at all.
thanks bud 👍👍
Thanks for your support.
Great video! Where did you order the clutch kit from? I found a Barnett performance kit for $170. But if yoir was under $100 and works for you any help on the one you got is appreciated
I bought my kit off of eBay. It is actually cheaper now. Can't speak to the longevity of it but it works well.
www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627
12:28 110Nm
I'm not sure if you're getting this but I did everything you did the same way and now my bike is making a knocking sound. To much oil maybe or not enough I used 2.5 quarts , maybe loose the clutch cable a little
Are you sure that you put the washers back where they belong?
@@restoroosterohv yes I even pinned the metal thing I know where I went wrong now, I didn't fill the oil filter with oil so the 2.5 quarts is not enough. Question is Lucas oil good for bikes I use it in my trucks??
@@randycarr2650 glad you were able to figure it out. Most oils will be fine in your bike. I would caution against any semi or full synthetic oils unless they are specifically designed for wet clutch systems. I just prefer the shell Rotella diesel oil because it has higher antiwear additives similar to the higher end oils at a great price
@@MrPetRooster I called the honda guys and they said to back the filter off to release the air bubble that's making the knock wish me luck lol your video was great and thank you for getting back to me be safe my friend
Do those springs ever break and cause a knocking sound under that cover?
I’ve never seen happen but it is a machine, anything is possible. I would pull the cover off and see if anything looks strange.
Pretty sure the last clutch plate (the skinny one) isn't in the right place. It's supposed to be in the adjacent slot.
Appreciate the comment. Yamaha does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the ability to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.
@@MrPetRooster Thanks for the reply. Very nice video btw. I recently did the clutch on my 2001 Honda Shadow 600 and forgot to clock it and had to redo that portion. I wasn't aware of the purpose for offsetting the last plate. Thanks for explaining. Be well.
You put the last clutch plate in wrong bro needs to be turned to the next grove.
I appreciate the feedback. I am aware that some manufacturers suggest clocking the last friction disc by one groove. This clutch had never been replaced and was not staggered when I took it apart so I reassembled it as it was. Honestly, it really won’t make any difference.
It was staggered I had to look at your video twice. And it does make a difference, just like the torque spec matters on the clutch assembly nut. Difference between hope it lasts and I know it will. 🤷♂️
I have pics of when you took it apart I screenshot that I can send you.
Thought so
Was about to replay with same thing, all Honda Shadows have that last smaller grip disc going into single disc slot at outter edge. Nice to see Im not the only one that caught that.
I noticed you didnt place the front disc on the upper groove. Whoever is following this video now. Know that the front disc goes offset to the other ones
Yes sir, thanks for pointing it out. It has been discussed in detail in the comments.
Identical to mine
Great bike, isn’t it!
@@MrPetRooster can believe how new they look for being 20 years old
@@pappydanny58 when you make it right, you don’t t change much.
@@MrPetRooster only thing I don’t like about it is to top heavy for a 750. I had a Honda V45 before that wasn’t
I followed this step by step. 2 weeks in and I am about to smash this bike. I need help over the phone or video. I am fking lost.
Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Email me at restoroosterohv@gmail.com with your contact info.
13:35 12Nm
Масло-какой то мазут лил. Динамометрический ключ купить - денег видимо нет.
doesn't your smallest friction pad go on the out side and in the odd placement slots ?
Yes, Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.
@@restoroosterohv i have installed the pads and when put the cover back on and re attach the clutch cable it wont engage the clutch it is all lose at my lever and doesn't spring back or have resistance. like my push rod for the clutch is not engaging, like the rod is not hitting it or something. and when ya install the pads should the inner part be able to spin when i tighten down the locking nut before installing the clutch springs and plate it stops being able to spit.
@@nottogood415 When the springs are tightened, the entire unit will be locked together as one. Did you adjust the cable to take the slack out? Also, are you sure you put the pusher back in the outer clutch cover (15:05 in the video)?
@@restoroosterohv never had to take the pusher out. the lever thing you attach the cable to is really easy to push to the right like how it gets pulled by the clutch cable. i can do it really easy by hand there is no tension. ok and before the springs because when i tighten up the center clutch nut. i can't move it either is it meant to be all locked together then as well. because there is no movement what so ever when try spin it .
@@nottogood415 if you can’t turn anything, my guess is you may have dropped a space/washer or it is not put together in the correct order.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2003/vt750dca-a-shadow-spirit-750/clutch
my clutch is not engaging at all now there is no spring back in the lever.
Your clutch cable might have snapped.. mine did.