Great video! One thing I would suggest, is filling that cup for the bearings with the grease, as opposed to the boot. Centrifugal force is going to push all that grease to the outer most parts of the folds of the boot. If you were to fill that cup portion the the axle, then you would get maximum lubrication on the wear components.
Did extreme tight turns clockwise and counterclockwise at neighborhood school parking lot, slow in my 1995 Honda ACTY SDX H4 . Heard slightly popping sound not loud in both directions! Further examination tears completely in half in boots to where you could put fingers through and feel the grease! Exact spots as your boots! Thanks for the video now I know what I have to do or have done! Why me?
Awesome informative video. I just purchased an acty last week and Im picking it up tomorrow. I plan on doing all the maintenance work myself so I will definitely be watching your videos. Please do more routine maintenance videos for the acty. Thanks for your hard work!
I just now am working on my rear boots. I was unable to get the outer part out of the outboard hub and I could not get a puller (pusher) that fit. I was stuck, then I realized I could remove the retaining ring and remove the drive shaft from the cup on the inner side of the hub. This means I will assemble it partially on the vehicle which will only be a little bit more difficult. Nice video!
the torque value on the Rear Axle nut is 20 kg.m (144ft lbs) . It was on page 184 on the service manual in suspension chapter. Watching your video as usual before i prep my brain for this task. Removing all 4 axles and rebooting them all tomorrow. Probably will be few days task for me. 3 of the boots were shot and rest were looking pretty bad. Can tell the rubber was degrading and its only a matter of time.
Awesome! Thanks for the info on torque. You've got a job ahead of you but the front axles are much easier and like a FWD Honda. You may as well do both in the back when you do one. I wish I would have done both as a preventative measure.
@@rhd_ron That is true. As of now i rebooted both front axles, changed both tie rods, both lower control arm ball joints, center steering arm, and torsion bushings. Plan was to do rear axles after this but to tell you the truth i need a break :D. Also noticed the front propeller boot was completely gone and leaking grease from there as well. Service manual really doesnt tell how to remove it just tq value and a graph. Do you have any infos regarding about that? It almost looks like you unbolt it from transmission side , then remove the bolts on the front differentials and it should pull out. but not 100% sure never touched 4wd before.
I add most of the grease into inside of outer joint then I push it onto shaft till It bottoms out pushes all that grease threw the bearings any left I add to boot
Awesome! I am looking at maybe getting a Vamos turbo engine for my other truck. thought it would be a sweet swap, and retained the bed use. Thanks for viewing!
I know! It's almost a press fit. I didn't sand much, just shined it up really with 500 grit. It still took some "using the axle as its own hammer" to get the spline in far enough to allow the castle nut to pull it through.
Oh brother, that is A TASK. So, get the outboard into the bearing as far as you can by hand. Then take the axle by hand and use it like a hammer (using the take up of the boot) to hammer it into the bearing. I was able to then get a piece of wood from the outside (inside the drum/shoe area) up against the bearing. THEN put the axle nut on to pull the remaining portion of the outer CV (using the wood up against the nut) through enough to then go back with the Drum. Then use the axle nut pressed up against the drum to pull it all the way through. It was really a 4 step process of slowly "inching" the outer CV into the bearing. Hard to describe but I hope that makes sense. Little-by-little until you can get the drum on, and have enough thread to start your nut on the axle. Then all is well.
So after two days my band clamp failed and I already see some grease shot out. Can I just cut that clamp off and get a normal pipe clamp style one on it? Or maybe one of those crimp style ones. Super frustrating.
Ugh my life sucks. Tried a regular one but it was too thick and slipped off shredded the boot. Now I’m back to square one. Maybe I’ll try and find some crimp style clamps that fit.
Was there a noticeable noise or vibration that lead you to replacing this? I just got a few Acty's myself and one of my 4wd's had a weird vibration that starts at around 35kph, I have a feeling a worn boot might be the culprit but not sure.
@@rhd_ron gotcha, gonna put it up on a lift in a day or two and see what it might be. Thought maybe it was tires needing balanced but the vibration seems to increase and decrease with throttle manipulation, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks for the quick reply though!
Ron thank you for the super helpful video. I did my axle boots this weekend w the guidance of your video! Question- does removing the leaf springs from The torsion bar mess up the alignment in any way?
Congrats! Glad my video could help. It Should not mess with the rear alignment as there is no toe or camber adjustment with the leaf springs. Just drop the shackle bolts. Put them back in. Thanks!
No, I would not use that in the transmission. It is far too thick for the high speed rotating gears and synchros in the transmission. The service manual calls for 10W-30 or Honda MTF. Thanks!
Yep. Got a sledge and hit it till I almost cried and it came loose. U sanded it down to get it back in easier? Also no matter how hard I yank on these clamps I can still make the boot rotate back and forth on the cv.
I gave up for the day. U can’t even get the damn thing started back through the hub. I have to chill or imma break every fucking window out of this truck. Ha!
@@JedKoll yeah its tough. Took me a couple days. To go back in you have to use the axle like a hammer on itself to get the spline back into the hub enough to get the axle nut started. Then you can use a piece of metal or wood to turns against the wood to pull the spline through while turning the axle nut. Its quite the process
Yup got it through enough to get the hub and nut back on. Now everytime I get it into transmission the other axle pops out. Struggling to get the axles flush with the transmission. This is the worst fuckin job ever. But I appreciate the help.
This is VERY helpful, thanks Ron for putting this out for us.
You got it bud. Thanks for the feedback!
Man. Step by step instructions. Love it. Thnx again for another amazing video.
Thanks! I appreciate the compliment!
Very good. Your mechanical and narrating skills adds a lot.
Thanks for the kind words sir!
Very well detailed video.. very helpful really decerve a like.
Thanks!
Great instructional video! Nice to have a lift to do work like that.
Great video! One thing I would suggest, is filling that cup for the bearings with the grease, as opposed to the boot. Centrifugal force is going to push all that grease to the outer most parts of the folds of the boot. If you were to fill that cup portion the the axle, then you would get maximum lubrication on the wear components.
Did extreme tight turns clockwise and counterclockwise at neighborhood school parking lot, slow in my 1995 Honda ACTY SDX H4 . Heard slightly popping sound not loud in both directions! Further examination tears completely in half in boots to where you could put fingers through and feel the grease! Exact spots as your boots! Thanks for the video now I know what I have to do or have done! Why me?
P. S. Thanks for a great video would never of known had I not seen your video 👍
Sorry to hear! It’s quite the job, but it’s doable. Hardest part is getting the axles in and out the wheel bearing/hub. ugh! Good luck and thanks!
Awesome informative video. I just purchased an acty last week and Im picking it up tomorrow. I plan on doing all the maintenance work myself so I will definitely be watching your videos. Please do more routine maintenance videos for the acty. Thanks for your hard work!
Will do and thanks! There’s plenty to do and as more stuff needs replacing, the more videos I can shoot. Haha.
I just now am working on my rear boots. I was unable to get the outer part out of the outboard hub and I could not get a puller (pusher) that fit. I was stuck, then I realized I could remove the retaining ring and remove the drive shaft from the cup on the inner side of the hub. This means I will assemble it partially on the vehicle which will only be a little bit more difficult.
Nice video!
Yep, thats an option I considered after the fact as well. They are really pressed in there.
Excellent JDM Honda videos!
Thanks!
the torque value on the Rear Axle nut is 20 kg.m (144ft lbs) . It was on page 184 on the service manual in suspension chapter.
Watching your video as usual before i prep my brain for this task. Removing all 4 axles and rebooting them all tomorrow. Probably will be few days task for me. 3 of the boots were shot and rest were looking pretty bad. Can tell the rubber was degrading and its only a matter of time.
Awesome! Thanks for the info on torque. You've got a job ahead of you but the front axles are much easier and like a FWD Honda. You may as well do both in the back when you do one. I wish I would have done both as a preventative measure.
@@rhd_ron That is true. As of now i rebooted both front axles, changed both tie rods, both lower control arm ball joints, center steering arm, and torsion bushings.
Plan was to do rear axles after this but to tell you the truth i need a break :D.
Also noticed the front propeller boot was completely gone and leaking grease from there as well. Service manual really doesnt tell how to remove it just tq value and a graph. Do you have any infos regarding about that?
It almost looks like you unbolt it from transmission side , then remove the bolts on the front differentials and it should pull out. but not 100% sure never touched 4wd before.
where did you order the cv axle?
Didn’t order. It’s the original, I just put new boots on it. Boots came from Smokey Mountain Imports.
@@rhd_ron I just got a Honda Acty and the cv axle clicks any advice?
@@TommyMx Front or Rear? Likely just needs a new re-grease and re-boot.
@@rhd_ron rear
@@rhd_ron yeah it clicks a bit going in reverse and turning while I go slow
Helpfully thank you
I add most of the grease into inside of outer joint then I push it onto shaft till It bottoms out pushes all that grease threw the bearings any left I add to boot
Yes indeed, also a good way to do it! Thanks for the comment!
It has torsion bars and leaf spings?
do you have a link to the tool you used to get the drum off?
Would you recommend doing the bearings at three same time?
Hey Ron, you said the castle nut was a 32mm or 36mm. Do you happen to have the actual size of that nut please?
36mm if I recall. Its been about a year though since I've touched it. LOL
Nice video, i also mechanic, recently i performed trans kit for honda vamos,
Awesome! I am looking at maybe getting a Vamos turbo engine for my other truck. thought it would be a sweet swap, and retained the bed use. Thanks for viewing!
Last time I did this it was such a pain to reinstall the shaft though the bearings... How much did you sand?
I know! It's almost a press fit. I didn't sand much, just shined it up really with 500 grit. It still took some "using the axle as its own hammer" to get the spline in far enough to allow the castle nut to pull it through.
@@rhd_ron precisely haha can't tell you I haven't stripped one before doing this 😬
@@happydaily7324 Ouch, I can imagine that gets ugly, quick!
@@rhd_ron ended up having to order a whole rear assembly from G&R
I’m having a hell of a time reinstalling my axles, they just don’t want to go into the wheel bearings. Any pointers?
Oh brother, that is A TASK. So, get the outboard into the bearing as far as you can by hand. Then take the axle by hand and use it like a hammer (using the take up of the boot) to hammer it into the bearing. I was able to then get a piece of wood from the outside (inside the drum/shoe area) up against the bearing. THEN put the axle nut on to pull the remaining portion of the outer CV (using the wood up against the nut) through enough to then go back with the Drum. Then use the axle nut pressed up against the drum to pull it all the way through. It was really a 4 step process of slowly "inching" the outer CV into the bearing. Hard to describe but I hope that makes sense. Little-by-little until you can get the drum on, and have enough thread to start your nut on the axle. Then all is well.
So after two days my band clamp failed and I already see some grease shot out. Can I just cut that clamp off and get a normal pipe clamp style one on it? Or maybe one of those crimp style ones. Super frustrating.
Yeah for sure, just use a regular band clamp you can tighten with a screwdriver
Ugh my life sucks. Tried a regular one but it was too thick and slipped off shredded the boot. Now I’m back to square one. Maybe I’ll try and find some crimp style clamps that fit.
@@JedKoll gosh man, sorry to hear. This stuff will break you. Hang in there, you got it.
Was there a noticeable noise or vibration that lead you to replacing this? I just got a few Acty's myself and one of my 4wd's had a weird vibration that starts at around 35kph, I have a feeling a worn boot might be the culprit but not sure.
No sir, never even knew it was torn until I saw the grease. Maybe if it was real bad and grease was all gone, but mine never got that bad.
@@rhd_ron gotcha, gonna put it up on a lift in a day or two and see what it might be. Thought maybe it was tires needing balanced but the vibration seems to increase and decrease with throttle manipulation, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks for the quick reply though!
Talk about by the book. Sheesh. 29 Ft lbs. of tq
Never want to snap a bolt!
Ron thank you for the super helpful video. I did my axle boots this weekend w the guidance of your video! Question- does removing the leaf springs from
The torsion bar mess up the alignment in any way?
Congrats! Glad my video could help. It Should not mess with the rear alignment as there is no toe or camber adjustment with the leaf springs. Just drop the shackle bolts. Put them back in. Thanks!
Can synthetic 75/90 gear oil be used in that manual trans instead of honda mtf
No, I would not use that in the transmission. It is far too thick for the high speed rotating gears and synchros in the transmission. The service manual calls for 10W-30 or Honda MTF. Thanks!
Any mechanical that works on actys like my guy ron in New Jersey?
I can’t for the life of me get the axle out of the hub, I’ve smashed a 2x4 to bits trying for 30 mins. I must be doing something wrong
No sir, it’s just that hard. Put the castle nut back on and find a “bigger hammer”. It takes alot unfortunately. The castle nut will save your thread.
Yep. Got a sledge and hit it till I almost cried and it came loose. U sanded it down to get it back in easier? Also no matter how hard I yank on these clamps I can still make the boot rotate back and forth on the cv.
I gave up for the day. U can’t even get the damn thing started back through the hub. I have to chill or imma break every fucking window out of this truck. Ha!
@@JedKoll yeah its tough. Took me a couple days. To go back in you have to use the axle like a hammer on itself to get the spline back into the hub enough to get the axle nut started. Then you can use a piece of metal or wood to turns against the wood to pull the spline through while turning the axle nut. Its quite the process
Yup got it through enough to get the hub and nut back on. Now everytime I get it into transmission the other axle pops out. Struggling to get the axles flush with the transmission. This is the worst fuckin job ever. But I appreciate the help.
You have a car lift inside your house? Dafuq?
It’s a garage NEXT to the house.
ぽんこつで申し訳ない。
どんな改造になるのかな。