I wired 12 pairs of speakers and used 16 gauge 65/64 strand copper. I was told it would be fine because the signal travels much easier on the fine stranded 65/64 wire.
Would you separate surround sound for movies from the zoned system? Trying to figure out the best way to do the surround sound with the tv in the living room while also having zones throughout the house and outside as well.
@@rvernet2016 I'm almost wondering if you either have to have them separated out (which means speakers for the surround and then 2 separate speakers for the zoned system) or a surround sound amplifier connected into the system, but for the life of me I can't even envision how that would work.
Hi I enjoy your channel. Right now we are building our custom home and I would like to have some information regarding my following queries. 1) when to use 6.5 inch and when to use 8 inch speaker ? 2) In terms of sound quality does it matter if I have covered back speaker ? 3) Comparing to dayton in ceiling speaker vs polk RC80i do you have any comment on the sound quality ? 4 ) How happy you are with the sound quality of your dayton speakers ? how are the bass sound of the speaker ?
1) This is your own preference. In high ceilings greater than 10 ft tall i prefer the 8 inch. In lower ceiling i like the 6.5 inch because my own opinion is the 8 inch look too big. But again, it is your choice. 2) In high ceilings, having a back covered speaker is preferred. Actually, always having a back covered speaker is better than not. But in lower ceilings you can get away without it. 3) If you are looking for high quality at a good price please check this video ruclips.net/video/0Di7-bUwkaA/видео.html 4) I like the dayton speakers, they are good for just background music. But, i love my soundavo speakers, they sound amazing and are extremely higher quality.
@@TheKMZ1 First of all thanks for such detailed prompt reply. I know you are a busy guy, but I just want to ask you that during my wiring phase if i send you my house blueprint if you can give me some advise on the speaker placement in my rooms and couple of other things. I know you are a coffee enthusiast and I would be more than happy to send to you some good cup of joes through your link, Cheers...
Yes sounds good, i normally do look over people house plans and give them my opinion/advise for a small fee. You can do that through my coffee link. Cheers!
@@TheKMZ1 I would like to send you my house plan for whole home audio layout. can you please share your email address. also for connecting the source with the amplifier what kind of cable you use RG 6 quadshield or any other variety ?
I have the last amp you previously spotlighted from monoprice. I'm having a terrible time with the keypads. I have 10 zones. First of all the app and hardware you suggested works great, so all 10 zones work. Thanks so much! Buuut, some keypads just won't work. They light up, but No control and no display. I've unplugged, re plugged, checked the zone assignments. I'm at my wits end. When you hook up your keypads, will you -- Show how you separated 1-6: and 7-12. Also are you using "A" or "B" on the wiring scheme? Instructions say A but i can't imagine that matters, as SOME work. I still need to do some swap out testing, I'll wait for your video that covers it first. Edit - coffee sent!
Thanks again for the coffee! I think I can hopefully help you get this resolved. 1st, I actually just tested this tonight, if any of your keypads accidentally have the same zone set on the back (remember those small red dip switches on the back?) if you have any keypads that have the same zone set as another, then NEITHER keypad will work. So 2 keypads accidentally set to zone 1 with the dip switches? Guess what, zone 1 doesn't work and neither will the other keypad, for which you thought was a different zone, because in reality it's also set to zone 1. So it will appear like 2 zones don't work. Check all your zones dip switches that they are unique and follow the PCB guide Below are some other things to check after that. Since you have 2 amps, your first amp should have the small switch on the back set to "master" and the 2nd amp should be set to slave 1 on the back. Check those switches. Make sure your expansion ribbon cable is plugged in correctly, which connects your 2 amps together (the output of the master going into the input of the slave 1). For addressing your keypads with those dip switches, zones 1 - 6 are straight forward, just address them as it shows on the printed circuit board of the back of the key pad. For zones 7 - 12 you start over again with addressing them as 1 - 6 with the dip switches. Since your 2nd amp will be in slave mode, it will know that zone 1 in the slave, is zone 7. The wiring schema does not matter (A or B), it just matters that the ethernet cables are a straight through cable (so pinout is same on both ends). I use the USA standard which is B, also maybe buy a little cheap ethernet cable tester like this? amzn.to/3p1jqVO it will tell you if your cable is not straight through, a light will not light up. Or maybe a bad crimp in the cable end etc. Try these out, and let me know what you find!
Would love your thoughts on speaker placement in bedrooms. We have old style smaller bedrooms typically about 12 x 12‘ with ceiling fans in the center of the room. My thought process is to install two speakers equal distance from the ceiling fan lined up with the ceiling fan so they just look like a straight line. Curious what your thoughts are.
In 2 of my 3 upstairs bedrooms, I did just that. I put them equal distance in a line from the center ceiling fan. Make sure you do the orientation though, so however the bed faces in the room, you have them on both sides of the bed. So just figure how the bed is supposed to be, if you don't have a bed in there. Because it would look funny if your speakers were going long ways, you wont hear much if the left or right speaker is at your feet! haha... However, in my 3rd bedroom it is considered more of a 2nd master suite in my house, because it has a bathroom in the bedroom. So in that one since the bedroom is larger and more grand, I decided to offset those closer towards where the bed head board is. And then in that particular zone, I had a 3rd speaker in the zone which was above the shower in that master bathroom. If i would not have added the 3rd speaker, I would have put them in a line with the fan just like the others. I'm not sure if you had yet been following my whole home audio from start to finish series that I made, but you can hear more about this particular zone I'm referring to in this video here. It is episode 8, and I am going to link it specifically to the point in time of the video where I start talking about it. ruclips.net/video/GZ4Pc7ovuqs/видео.html
Notice the Monoprice and Dayton reserve two zones for preamp out so you can hook up, say, a high power amp to power a pair of large floorstanding speakers that could not be powered sufficiently by the WH amp. Does the Soundavo have this feature?
The DAX 88 does yes but the monoprice doesn't reserve any, unless you are talking about a new product? The monoprice 10761 it has 6 pre amp outputs, you can use that to hook up to external amps, and you can also use the zone at the same time. So you can use both the pre amp out and the regular built in zone. Same with the soundavo!
So if I want to listen to a CD in Zone 2, and I'm using the Phoenix connector to run wires to my ceiling speaks, AND, I also have RCA cables running from the Zone 2 Pre outs to my external amp, I can choose to listen via EITHER the ceiling speakers, OR, my large tower speakers (after I switch on the big amp of course). Is this an accurate way to think of it?@@TheKMZ1
@@we6871 yes that is right, you could have whatever the pre-amp out goes into (whatever external amp that is), turned off or on, and the same goes for that individual zone, it could be off or on as well. So you could listen to both at the same time, or one or the other. Since they are still the same zone, they do have to listen to the same thing though, but I think you knew that part of it.
What would the keypad do in this scenario? If you upped the treble would it affect both sets of speakers or just this connected to the Phoenix block?@@kadinzimmerman7405
I currently have two Monoprice Amps and one on them is not powering on :( I'm think about picking up the Soundavo system without the keypads, since I have them already. The Soundavo would be the master and the Monoprice would be the Slave 1. Can the Soundavo system be hit via a website or connection from a PC to run commands? I have integrated mine into my Smarthome and can change volume levels, sources and power them on/off.
To answer your question, 1) Can it? Yes absolutely, but not by default no. There is no built in or pre-built program to do that. But one could be written to interface with the controlling app module which is built into the amp. That is what the phone apps are using to interface with the amp.
This is great!! I am building a house right now and trying to think about whole home audio for my various rooms. If I run the wiring and the dayton audio pre-construction speaker bracket, Will that be good until drywall is finished? Is there any kind of cover for the rear of the speaker that's in the ceiling? For the non-enclosed speakers I don't like the idea of it just being surrounded by insulation. Is there a better way to protect the rear?
Yes those pre construction brackets are perfectly fine, and your drywallers should cut the hole for you using their drywall router. Similar to how they cut the can lights out for you. Just make sure the bracket you buy, is compatible with the speakers you will be using. I think their brackets are mostly for their micro edge speaker, but just make sure it's the one you'll use. Yes, they make a shower cap looking cover, that you can use, if you don't want the insulation directly on the back of your speaker amzn.to/2UmBZpq
@@TheKMZ1 awesome!! Your videos have been very helpful. If I sent you over my floor plan and speaker placement locations would you mind taking a look at it for me?
I'm in the middle of designing a new home and am planning on doing a DIY whole home audio system. I was looking at the Monoprice Amber 8in w/ 1" Ribbon tweeter (They also sell 8in metal back cans for them) or using some Dayton Audio speakers w/ 1in dome tweeters. I would like to stay under ~$150 a pair. Any preference between the two for indoor in-ceiling speakers? Does anyone have experience using both?
Unfortunately I can't comment on the monoprice speakers as I've never tried them, so it would be unfair of me to say not to get them. But, I can tell you this which is why I go with dayton audio/parts-express.com ....monoprice charges for shipping based on weight, and as you can imagine speakers and wire are heavy. So i've just found that not only do I personally like all of the quality and engineering of Dayton audio products, but I get free shipping on all that heavy stuff from parts-express when you spend over either $49 or $99 something like that. So shipping cost has played a factor in determining for me! But to comment on planning your DIY whole home audio, trust me you will not regret it, and these whole home audio amps are great.
@@TheKMZ1 Thanks for the feedback, I haven't looking at Shipping costs yet, since I haven't went through the checkout process. Do you not use an external amp w/ the pre-amp outputs? I was digging into the specs a little more and I saw that the mulitzone controller only supports 25 watts RMS/stereo (w/ x6 channels) @ 8 ohms and Dayton Audio 6.5" in-ceiling speakers are at RMS 25 Watt @8 Ohm (50W Max). Have you ever cranked the volume on the Soundavo receiver with all 6 zones active? Can it handle it? Any signs of audio clipping with the speakers since the amplifier would be overdriven in an attempt to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its maximum capability? A good rule of thumb is for an amplifier to have around 150% capacity of the speaker wattage, which this does not, but I really don't want to unload a bunch of cash on a ton of amps either.. Have you ever looked at using an external amplifier? I was looking at the monolith amplifiers for home theater, but those are quite overkill for whole home in-ceiling speakers. Something like this may work: www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18514 and still be a "reasonable" amount of money
@@bradleydoepker6816 I personally don't use an external amp with the pre-amp outs. I filmed a video already (just have not yet posted it to my channel) where I talk about the pre-amp outs, and I demonstrate it into another amp. The video primarily talks about how you can use these to achieve many many speakers in 1 zone. But I also touch on how you could use the pre-amp out going into a home theater receiver for people who want it to include their 5.1 surround sound as zone. The dayton audio ceiling speakers at 25 watts rms @ 8 ohms is a perfect ceiling speaker for these whole home amps, because the amps do 25 watts per channel, there are 6 zones which is technically 12 channels, so each speaker can get 25 watts which is matched perfectly. Trust me when I say that the stock amp can drive these speakers loud! I've never had an issue with the clipping, the amp does have circuit protection on it, where if it's being over loaded it will stop to prevent damage. Also, I rarely have ALL speakers in my house on at the same time (usually at most 4 or 5 zones, usually less though), I will definitely test out running all zones at the same time, but that should not cause problems because each amp is just concerned with it's specific channles that it is powering...... only thing i can POTENTIALLY see would be if i had all speakers on, and at FULL volume. But otherwise the way my system is matched should be perfect! If you are considering another external amp for pre-amp check out the Soundavo MZ series amplifiers, I have a coupon code TKMZ15 which will give 15% off of those MZ series. This is the amp I use in my upcoming video.
@@TheKMZ1 I'll check out the amp, as I have several zones that I want to expand with potentially up to ~10 speakers. Thanks for coupon code! It doesn't expire at the end of the year or anything does it?
@@bradleydoepker6816 check out my video I uploaded today! It will explain exactly how you can get that many speakers in one zone! Let me know if you have any questions and know the coupons for both of those amplifiers should not expire.
Hello Mate.. thanks for your advice earlier on running the CAT6 around the house - thats all good..I have another question regarding speaker installation. I have 2 x 8ohm speakers that have a left and right input on each (www.ceiling-speakers.co.uk/products/q-install-qi-65c-st-stereo-in-ceiling-speaker-each).. would it be possible (by that I mean safe) to connect from the left & right channel from one zone on the WS66i to 1 speaker and then from there to a second 8 ohm speaker in series. I set this up in a test and it worked but im concerned about wrecking the amp. I left the rear setting on the amp on stereo thanks in advance
It's probably not good that it does that no. What kind of speakers do you have? Do you have them hooked up with just 2 speakers per zone? Do both speaker cables go back to the amp? (as in, you aren't wiring one speaker to the other speaker which could change the resistance). To answer your question though, yes there is a way to bring more power to the amp, that is done by using the Pre-Amp outputs on the back of the monoprice/dax66/soundavo ws66i. I will be doing a video soon explaining the pre-amp out and demonstrating it.
@@TheKMZ1 i have polkaudio speakers and just 2 per zone. It only flickers If I turn the keypads to like 30 and depends on the song. But I've seen in your videos you turn your volume Up and do you have a problem with the light flickering
@@michaelianazzi7270 can you tell me the model of speaker? I don't have that probably that I've seen, but also my amp is always out of sight. My other thought is maybe your speaker is a different ohm, and so it's stressing the amp differently. Are they 8ohm? 4ohm?
Also CCA increases the Ohms (resistance) which also will contribute to the loss (to heat) you are speaking of.
Could you make a episode about how to integrate this in a surround setup with same speaker
agree
I have been watching the series and learning a lot. Especially on this episode. This is great information.
Thanks for watching!
I wired 12 pairs of speakers and used 16 gauge 65/64 strand copper. I was told it would be fine because the signal travels much easier on the fine stranded 65/64 wire.
The enclosed speaker also helps keep insulation out.
I use these speakers too, also love them ;-) Cheers.
Did you do dual channel speaker in the upstairs master bath that is in the same zone as the bedroom? Or a single?
Would you separate surround sound for movies from the zoned system? Trying to figure out the best way to do the surround sound with the tv in the living room while also having zones throughout the house and outside as well.
Good question. I'm also thinking about this. How can a zone have surround sound?
@@rvernet2016 I'm almost wondering if you either have to have them separated out (which means speakers for the surround and then 2 separate speakers for the zoned system) or a surround sound amplifier connected into the system, but for the life of me I can't even envision how that would work.
@@NavyCopMA1 if you email me I'll send you a diagram image on how to do this and keep it as a zone as well.
@@NavyCopMA1 @Romane Vernet support@kztechconsulting.com
@@TheKMZ1 could I also get a diagram of this? jordancferry@gmail.com
Hi I enjoy your channel. Right now we are building our custom home and I would like to have some information regarding my following queries. 1) when to use 6.5 inch and when to use 8 inch speaker ?
2) In terms of sound quality does it matter if I have covered back speaker ?
3) Comparing to dayton in ceiling speaker vs polk RC80i do you have any comment on the sound quality ? 4
) How happy you are with the sound quality of your dayton speakers ? how are the bass sound of the speaker ?
1) This is your own preference. In high ceilings greater than 10 ft tall i prefer the 8 inch. In lower ceiling i like the 6.5 inch because my own opinion is the 8 inch look too big. But again, it is your choice.
2) In high ceilings, having a back covered speaker is preferred. Actually, always having a back covered speaker is better than not. But in lower ceilings you can get away without it.
3) If you are looking for high quality at a good price please check this video ruclips.net/video/0Di7-bUwkaA/видео.html
4) I like the dayton speakers, they are good for just background music. But, i love my soundavo speakers, they sound amazing and are extremely higher quality.
@@TheKMZ1 First of all thanks for such detailed prompt reply. I know you are a busy guy, but I just want to ask you that during my wiring phase if i send you my house blueprint if you can give me some advise on the speaker placement in my rooms and couple of other things. I know you are a coffee enthusiast and I would be more than happy to send to you some good cup of joes through your link, Cheers...
Yes sounds good, i normally do look over people house plans and give them my opinion/advise for a small fee. You can do that through my coffee link. Cheers!
@@TheKMZ1 I would like to send you my house plan for whole home audio layout. can you please share your email address. also for connecting the source with the amplifier what kind of cable you use RG 6 quadshield or any other variety ?
@@sounakc support@kztechconsulting.com
I have the last amp you previously spotlighted from monoprice. I'm having a terrible time with the keypads. I have 10 zones. First of all the app and hardware you suggested works great, so all 10 zones work. Thanks so much! Buuut, some keypads just won't work. They light up, but No control and no display. I've unplugged, re plugged, checked the zone assignments. I'm at my wits end. When you hook up your keypads, will you -- Show how you separated 1-6: and 7-12. Also are you using "A" or "B" on the wiring scheme? Instructions say A but i can't imagine that matters, as SOME work.
I still need to do some swap out testing, I'll wait for your video that covers it first.
Edit - coffee sent!
Thanks again for the coffee! I think I can hopefully help you get this resolved. 1st, I actually just tested this tonight, if any of your keypads accidentally have the same zone set on the back (remember those small red dip switches on the back?) if you have any keypads that have the same zone set as another, then NEITHER keypad will work. So 2 keypads accidentally set to zone 1 with the dip switches? Guess what, zone 1 doesn't work and neither will the other keypad, for which you thought was a different zone, because in reality it's also set to zone 1. So it will appear like 2 zones don't work. Check all your zones dip switches that they are unique and follow the PCB guide
Below are some other things to check after that. Since you have 2 amps, your first amp should have the small switch on the back set to "master" and the 2nd amp should be set to slave 1 on the back. Check those switches. Make sure your expansion ribbon cable is plugged in correctly, which connects your 2 amps together (the output of the master going into the input of the slave 1). For addressing your keypads with those dip switches, zones 1 - 6 are straight forward, just address them as it shows on the printed circuit board of the back of the key pad. For zones 7 - 12 you start over again with addressing them as 1 - 6 with the dip switches. Since your 2nd amp will be in slave mode, it will know that zone 1 in the slave, is zone 7.
The wiring schema does not matter (A or B), it just matters that the ethernet cables are a straight through cable (so pinout is same on both ends). I use the USA standard which is B, also maybe buy a little cheap ethernet cable tester like this? amzn.to/3p1jqVO it will tell you if your cable is not straight through, a light will not light up. Or maybe a bad crimp in the cable end etc.
Try these out, and let me know what you find!
Would love your thoughts on speaker placement in bedrooms. We have old style smaller bedrooms typically about 12 x 12‘ with ceiling fans in the center of the room. My thought process is to install two speakers equal distance from the ceiling fan lined up with the ceiling fan so they just look like a straight line. Curious what your thoughts are.
In 2 of my 3 upstairs bedrooms, I did just that. I put them equal distance in a line from the center ceiling fan. Make sure you do the orientation though, so however the bed faces in the room, you have them on both sides of the bed. So just figure how the bed is supposed to be, if you don't have a bed in there. Because it would look funny if your speakers were going long ways, you wont hear much if the left or right speaker is at your feet! haha... However, in my 3rd bedroom it is considered more of a 2nd master suite in my house, because it has a bathroom in the bedroom. So in that one since the bedroom is larger and more grand, I decided to offset those closer towards where the bed head board is. And then in that particular zone, I had a 3rd speaker in the zone which was above the shower in that master bathroom. If i would not have added the 3rd speaker, I would have put them in a line with the fan just like the others. I'm not sure if you had yet been following my whole home audio from start to finish series that I made, but you can hear more about this particular zone I'm referring to in this video here. It is episode 8, and I am going to link it specifically to the point in time of the video where I start talking about it. ruclips.net/video/GZ4Pc7ovuqs/видео.html
Notice the Monoprice and Dayton reserve two zones for preamp out so you can hook up, say, a high power amp to power a pair of large floorstanding speakers that could not be powered sufficiently by the WH amp. Does the Soundavo have this feature?
The DAX 88 does yes but the monoprice doesn't reserve any, unless you are talking about a new product? The monoprice 10761 it has 6 pre amp outputs, you can use that to hook up to external amps, and you can also use the zone at the same time. So you can use both the pre amp out and the regular built in zone. Same with the soundavo!
So if I want to listen to a CD in Zone 2, and I'm using the Phoenix connector to run wires to my ceiling speaks, AND, I also have RCA cables running from the Zone 2 Pre outs to my external amp, I can choose to listen via EITHER the ceiling speakers, OR, my large tower speakers (after I switch on the big amp of course). Is this an accurate way to think of it?@@TheKMZ1
@@we6871 yes that is right, you could have whatever the pre-amp out goes into (whatever external amp that is), turned off or on, and the same goes for that individual zone, it could be off or on as well. So you could listen to both at the same time, or one or the other. Since they are still the same zone, they do have to listen to the same thing though, but I think you knew that part of it.
What would the keypad do in this scenario? If you upped the treble would it affect both sets of speakers or just this connected to the Phoenix block?@@kadinzimmerman7405
I currently have two Monoprice Amps and one on them is not powering on :( I'm think about picking up the Soundavo system without the keypads, since I have them already. The Soundavo would be the master and the Monoprice would be the Slave 1. Can the Soundavo system be hit via a website or connection from a PC to run commands? I have integrated mine into my Smarthome and can change volume levels, sources and power them on/off.
To answer your question, 1) Can it? Yes absolutely, but not by default no. There is no built in or pre-built program to do that. But one could be written to interface with the controlling app module which is built into the amp. That is what the phone apps are using to interface with the amp.
Did you use cat 5 or 6 cables? Would it make a difference? I’ve cat 5 wires.
It doesn't matter, I've used both
This is great!! I am building a house right now and trying to think about whole home audio for my various rooms. If I run the wiring and the dayton audio pre-construction speaker bracket, Will that be good until drywall is finished? Is there any kind of cover for the rear of the speaker that's in the ceiling? For the non-enclosed speakers I don't like the idea of it just being surrounded by insulation. Is there a better way to protect the rear?
Yes those pre construction brackets are perfectly fine, and your drywallers should cut the hole for you using their drywall router. Similar to how they cut the can lights out for you. Just make sure the bracket you buy, is compatible with the speakers you will be using. I think their brackets are mostly for their micro edge speaker, but just make sure it's the one you'll use. Yes, they make a shower cap looking cover, that you can use, if you don't want the insulation directly on the back of your speaker amzn.to/2UmBZpq
@@TheKMZ1 awesome!! Your videos have been very helpful. If I sent you over my floor plan and speaker placement locations would you mind taking a look at it for me?
@@brownw3311 if you buy me a coffee then sure, I'll send you over my email lol buymeacoffee.com/TheKMZ1
@@TheKMZ1 absolutely. Thank you!!
I'm in the middle of designing a new home and am planning on doing a DIY whole home audio system. I was looking at the Monoprice Amber 8in w/ 1" Ribbon tweeter (They also sell 8in metal back cans for them) or using some Dayton Audio speakers w/ 1in dome tweeters. I would like to stay under ~$150 a pair. Any preference between the two for indoor in-ceiling speakers? Does anyone have experience using both?
Unfortunately I can't comment on the monoprice speakers as I've never tried them, so it would be unfair of me to say not to get them. But, I can tell you this which is why I go with dayton audio/parts-express.com ....monoprice charges for shipping based on weight, and as you can imagine speakers and wire are heavy. So i've just found that not only do I personally like all of the quality and engineering of Dayton audio products, but I get free shipping on all that heavy stuff from parts-express when you spend over either $49 or $99 something like that. So shipping cost has played a factor in determining for me! But to comment on planning your DIY whole home audio, trust me you will not regret it, and these whole home audio amps are great.
@@TheKMZ1 Thanks for the feedback, I haven't looking at Shipping costs yet, since I haven't went through the checkout process. Do you not use an external amp w/ the pre-amp outputs? I was digging into the specs a little more and I saw that the mulitzone controller only supports 25 watts RMS/stereo (w/ x6 channels) @ 8 ohms and Dayton Audio 6.5" in-ceiling speakers are at RMS 25 Watt @8 Ohm (50W Max). Have you ever cranked the volume on the Soundavo receiver with all 6 zones active? Can it handle it? Any signs of audio clipping with the speakers since the amplifier would be overdriven in an attempt to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its maximum capability? A good rule of thumb is for an amplifier to have around 150% capacity of the speaker wattage, which this does not, but I really don't want to unload a bunch of cash on a ton of amps either.. Have you ever looked at using an external amplifier? I was looking at the monolith amplifiers for home theater, but those are quite overkill for whole home in-ceiling speakers. Something like this may work: www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18514 and still be a "reasonable" amount of money
@@bradleydoepker6816 I personally don't use an external amp with the pre-amp outs. I filmed a video already (just have not yet posted it to my channel) where I talk about the pre-amp outs, and I demonstrate it into another amp. The video primarily talks about how you can use these to achieve many many speakers in 1 zone. But I also touch on how you could use the pre-amp out going into a home theater receiver for people who want it to include their 5.1 surround sound as zone. The dayton audio ceiling speakers at 25 watts rms @ 8 ohms is a perfect ceiling speaker for these whole home amps, because the amps do 25 watts per channel, there are 6 zones which is technically 12 channels, so each speaker can get 25 watts which is matched perfectly. Trust me when I say that the stock amp can drive these speakers loud! I've never had an issue with the clipping, the amp does have circuit protection on it, where if it's being over loaded it will stop to prevent damage. Also, I rarely have ALL speakers in my house on at the same time (usually at most 4 or 5 zones, usually less though), I will definitely test out running all zones at the same time, but that should not cause problems because each amp is just concerned with it's specific channles that it is powering...... only thing i can POTENTIALLY see would be if i had all speakers on, and at FULL volume. But otherwise the way my system is matched should be perfect! If you are considering another external amp for pre-amp check out the Soundavo MZ series amplifiers, I have a coupon code TKMZ15 which will give 15% off of those MZ series. This is the amp I use in my upcoming video.
@@TheKMZ1 I'll check out the amp, as I have several zones that I want to expand with potentially up to ~10 speakers. Thanks for coupon code! It doesn't expire at the end of the year or anything does it?
@@bradleydoepker6816 check out my video I uploaded today! It will explain exactly how you can get that many speakers in one zone! Let me know if you have any questions and know the coupons for both of those amplifiers should not expire.
Hello Mate.. thanks for your advice earlier on running the CAT6 around the house - thats all good..I have another question regarding speaker installation. I have 2 x 8ohm speakers that have a left and right input on each (www.ceiling-speakers.co.uk/products/q-install-qi-65c-st-stereo-in-ceiling-speaker-each).. would it be possible (by that I mean safe) to connect from the left & right channel from one zone on the WS66i to 1 speaker and then from there to a second 8 ohm speaker in series. I set this up in a test and it worked but im concerned about wrecking the amp. I left the rear setting on the amp on stereo thanks in advance
the speakers were Q Acoustic 65C ST
Hi my name is Mike I have the monoprice amp is it ok the Peak light Flickers when I turn the volume up. Anyway to bring more power to the amp
It's probably not good that it does that no. What kind of speakers do you have? Do you have them hooked up with just 2 speakers per zone? Do both speaker cables go back to the amp? (as in, you aren't wiring one speaker to the other speaker which could change the resistance). To answer your question though, yes there is a way to bring more power to the amp, that is done by using the Pre-Amp outputs on the back of the monoprice/dax66/soundavo ws66i. I will be doing a video soon explaining the pre-amp out and demonstrating it.
@@TheKMZ1 i have polkaudio speakers and just 2 per zone. It only flickers If I turn the keypads to like 30 and depends on the song. But I've seen in your videos you turn your volume Up and do you have a problem with the light flickering
@@michaelianazzi7270 can you tell me the model of speaker? I don't have that probably that I've seen, but also my amp is always out of sight. My other thought is maybe your speaker is a different ohm, and so it's stressing the amp differently. Are they 8ohm? 4ohm?
@@TheKMZ1 my ceiling speakers are 6.5 RC60i my in wall speakers are 65-RT and in my yard are a pair of Yamaha NS-AW15oBL. Those are my model numbers
acha beta