Top video, well produced too, a must see for all us l322 owners good knowledge and effort, keep growing the channel mate and let's see another RR video please
@@DrivewayHustlers either a lt322 around 2006 /07 or a sport 2.7. But tbh there's alot of crap out there with majority not having service history. So straight out the box your spending 700 quid on cambelt uprated oil pump and tensioner, never mind what else. 🤪
I’d stay away from the 2.7tdv6 , the bottom ends are poorly manufactured. Trying to find one with a solid history would be ideal , but it’s easier said than done !
those RR compressors fit an Audi Allroad too , theres one blind hole that needs drilling out but its simple , lots of RR workshops will give you an old compressor , you only need to swap the whole thing if the bore is scored or worn , an indication is when the new ring only lasts a month or two and the compressor is still a bit noisy
Brilliant video , Subscribed👍 Stumbled across your video as I’m having the same issue , like the compressor is very weak. After watching this you have give me confidence to tackle it myself and rebuild it . I will be watching this video again this week when my kit arrives and following it 👍 Keep them videos coming mate . Brian
Thanks Brian, glad you found the video useful! Yes it’s a straight forward fix , you should be fine . There’s nothing that complicated to go wrong ! Hope you get it sorted and operating correctly👍
I’ve swapped it out with a new one but still no joy , bit lost with it now 🤔 How long did the first one last before it went again do you know? Yeah it’s been changed about 3 month ago 👍
Thanks , appreciate that 👍 Yeah do it , plenty of bargains out there at the moment . Just look for one with good history , its worth its weight in gold with these cars
If you replace the seal and still get it tripping the compressor with the static code it might be that your reservoir is empty and just not registering the pressure fast enough. I had this on mine a few times at the start. Don't think you're too far from me. Read you're in north Wales. I'm in runcorn
Also if you have a leak on your valve block your pump has to work extra hard which will burn it out also rise suspension slow, always best changing any seals in solenoid valve block, I have a 2002 renault master, similar setup too the old range rovers I took mine apart and replaced all seals considering they were over 20 years old and a mess, ordered a kit off a p38 for my compressor hoping it fits my model. The joys of air suspension an old vehicles.
@@DrivewayHustlers along as you change the seals in compressor you'll get alot more use out of it providing the bearing hasnt failed or motor giving up but the valve block is super important and its normally what destroys the pump through overheating. I had dirt and debris blocking solenoid holes the solenoids can be taken apart, each contain a armature an o-ring and a spring and a tiny hole that get plugged with debris this again causes major issues in the system and your pump to work overtime. Another good replacement in the valve block is the diaphram seal a big rubber flap this can wear down causing leaks, it's just a case of removing the valve block, stripping everything and replacing all o-rings an seal then it will last many more years to come providing you buy (vitron) rubber seals not standard ones which fall apart, X8R LTD is a great company always check them for seal kits.
Very good video! I followed your video and directions and changed my seal in the pump today, cleared the codes and I’m still having the same issue. I don’t think I did it wrong, it was too easy. It works soon as I clear the codes however it comes right back minutes later saying static in Reservior or something of the sort. What else could it be?
I’d be checking the reservoir pressure sensor . If you have an air compressor with an airline , just go straight in with that and check your reservoir pressure if it goes up 👍
@@DrivewayHustlers thanks for your response, I happen to have two Range Rovers, so what I did was swapped out the good compressor from the other truck and put it in the truck with the problem just to see, and it's working normal and no codes for it thus far! So that means the pump I replaced the seal gasket in was no good even though it comes on and lifts the car, but at a slow rate, or I just didn't put the seal gasket on the piston correctly 🤔
I would recommend getting the new cylinder head too , I’ve rebuilt it twice now and changing the cylinder head has made a huge difference . It’s like a new compressor 👍 I have linked the parts I used in the description 👍
Very informative video! Inline with everyone else that is classic Final Stage Unit failure. We have just bought a td6 l322 2002 with all the suspension down to bump stops and the classic "air suspension inactive" warning, luckily I had my BMW inpa laptop to hand and it came up with the same error 116 reservoir pressure static when filling, so I bought a new compressor seal kit and fitted it as in this video and still nothing happened! Only after ive bought and fitted everything somebody has gone to the trouble of removing and binning the compressor relay?! Why? haha! So now a new relay is on order, as you said I did jump the relay and test the compressor was blowing good pressure, I even could open the valve to the reservoir and manually fill it whilst monitoring the pressure, just need to sort the whole mess out now with the height sensors as the readings are all over the place haha!
Thank you , well I’m glad you got to the bottom of it in the end . Off the top of my head I believe if you measure from the centre cap to the top of the wheel arch , it should sit at 490mm at the front & 480mm at the back . But double check them measurements just incase I’ve got them wrong . Hope you get it sorted 👍
Thanks mate! Well I popped the new relay in and its clear to see why it was removed, the whole front end of the car when ridiculously high, so high that im worried i might of broken something! So i unplugged the relay again and deflated the front two bags using inpa, i dont suppose you have any ideas do you? Haha
Yeah that’s a little strange , the first thing I would do would be checking the live data whilst it’s in operation. If they don’t deflate when you adjust the ride height then I’d be looking more towards the valve block possibly
@@DrivewayHustlers I don't have one at all I'd say the previous owner removed it because I never found one would you have a part number or know the name of it so I could look it up or see if I can find one in a scrap dealers ?? Thanks for gettin back to me
I tested the relay , and changed the final stage resistor and still no joy . I stripped the dash , replaced the blower motor and worked fine ever since 👍
Now i have anterior spring new complete,compressor new..and i have total car in super extended mode ..and suspension inactive abs inactive and hdc inactive.and the led of regulation off..i dont resolve i v controlled all fusible relé and obd clear but reappears averything ..I wouldn't want to switch to springs because the mechanics here in italy aren't capable on this car and those who are capable are expensive
Top video, well produced too, a must see for all us l322 owners good knowledge and effort, keep growing the channel mate and let's see another RR video please
Thanks Nolan, I appreciate that 👍 It’s nice to have some good feedback
Great video, everything explained and shown so clearly we'll done 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Top man very informative. Just looking into buying one so information like this is gold.
Thankyou . Anything particular in mind ?
@@DrivewayHustlers either a lt322 around 2006 /07 or a sport 2.7. But tbh there's alot of crap out there with majority not having service history. So straight out the box your spending 700 quid on cambelt uprated oil pump and tensioner, never mind what else. 🤪
I’d stay away from the 2.7tdv6 , the bottom ends are poorly manufactured. Trying to find one with a solid history would be ideal , but it’s easier said than done !
those RR compressors fit an Audi Allroad too , theres one blind hole that needs drilling out but its simple , lots of RR workshops will give you an old compressor , you only need to swap the whole thing if the bore is scored or worn , an indication is when the new ring only lasts a month or two and the compressor is still a bit noisy
Brilliant video , Subscribed👍 Stumbled across your video as I’m having the same issue , like the compressor is very weak. After watching this you have give me confidence to tackle it myself and rebuild it . I will be watching this video again this week when my kit arrives and following it 👍 Keep them videos coming mate . Brian
Thanks Brian, glad you found the video useful! Yes it’s a straight forward fix , you should be fine . There’s nothing that complicated to go wrong ! Hope you get it sorted and operating correctly👍
It is definitely the blower motor resistor. I've changed it twice on my '06 HSE Range Rover. Also make sure you change your cabin filter frequently
I’ve swapped it out with a new one but still no joy , bit lost with it now 🤔 How long did the first one last before it went again do you know? Yeah it’s been changed about 3 month ago 👍
would be blower motor if not resistor, not as often but does happen
Try the replay
Where’s the relay located ?
Cheers buddy, I’m thinking the same thats what it could be that’s failed 👍
Another great video 👍👍👍thank you .
Thankyou 👍
Wow great video you do know your stuff. I want to buy a Range Rover now
Thanks , appreciate that 👍 Yeah do it , plenty of bargains out there at the moment . Just look for one with good history , its worth its weight in gold with these cars
Thank you v much, whenever your in Darlo I’ll buy your beer..
Your welcome Paul👍 Where is Darlo?
If you replace the seal and still get it tripping the compressor with the static code it might be that your reservoir is empty and just not registering the pressure fast enough. I had this on mine a few times at the start. Don't think you're too far from me. Read you're in north Wales. I'm in runcorn
Excellent vids, pity you don't do repairs, could do with someone to do repairs at sensible prices, looking forward to more vids, SJ
Thanks Steven , quite hard to find someone that will these days . This is why I do my own repairs 👍
Also if you have a leak on your valve block your pump has to work extra hard which will burn it out also rise suspension slow, always best changing any seals in solenoid valve block, I have a 2002 renault master, similar setup too the old range rovers I took mine apart and replaced all seals considering they were over 20 years old and a mess, ordered a kit off a p38 for my compressor hoping it fits my model. The joys of air suspension an old vehicles.
I think it’s just the compressor just on its last legs , but have thought about that 👍 I know , they’re good when they work 🤣
@@DrivewayHustlers along as you change the seals in compressor you'll get alot more use out of it providing the bearing hasnt failed or motor giving up but the valve block is super important and its normally what destroys the pump through overheating.
I had dirt and debris blocking solenoid holes the solenoids can be taken apart, each contain a armature an o-ring and a spring and a tiny hole that get plugged with debris this again causes major issues in the system and your pump to work overtime. Another good replacement in the valve block is the diaphram seal a big rubber flap this can wear down causing leaks, it's just a case of removing the valve block, stripping everything and replacing all o-rings an seal then it will last many more years to come providing you buy (vitron) rubber seals not standard ones which fall apart, X8R LTD is a great company always check them for seal kits.
Very good video! I followed your video and directions and changed my seal in the pump today, cleared the codes and I’m still having the same issue. I don’t think I did it wrong, it was too easy. It works soon as I clear the codes however it comes right back minutes later saying static in Reservior or something of the sort. What else could it be?
I’d be checking the reservoir pressure sensor . If you have an air compressor with an airline , just go straight in with that and check your reservoir pressure if it goes up 👍
@@DrivewayHustlers thanks for your response, I happen to have two Range Rovers, so what I did was swapped out the good compressor from the other truck and put it in the truck with the problem just to see, and it's working normal and no codes for it thus far! So that means the pump I replaced the seal gasket in was no good even though it comes on and lifts the car, but at a slow rate, or I just didn't put the seal gasket on the piston correctly 🤔
I have the same problem with mine but I have a slightly newer model and I might look into getting a o ring kit myself
I would recommend getting the new cylinder head too , I’ve rebuilt it twice now and changing the cylinder head has made a huge difference . It’s like a new compressor 👍 I have linked the parts I used in the description 👍
Very informative video! Inline with everyone else that is classic Final Stage Unit failure. We have just bought a td6 l322 2002 with all the suspension down to bump stops and the classic "air suspension inactive" warning, luckily I had my BMW inpa laptop to hand and it came up with the same error 116 reservoir pressure static when filling, so I bought a new compressor seal kit and fitted it as in this video and still nothing happened! Only after ive bought and fitted everything somebody has gone to the trouble of removing and binning the compressor relay?! Why? haha! So now a new relay is on order, as you said I did jump the relay and test the compressor was blowing good pressure, I even could open the valve to the reservoir and manually fill it whilst monitoring the pressure, just need to sort the whole mess out now with the height sensors as the readings are all over the place haha!
Thank you , well I’m glad you got to the bottom of it in the end . Off the top of my head I believe if you measure from the centre cap to the top of the wheel arch , it should sit at 490mm at the front & 480mm at the back . But double check them measurements just incase I’ve got them wrong . Hope you get it sorted 👍
Thanks mate! Well I popped the new relay in and its clear to see why it was removed, the whole front end of the car when ridiculously high, so high that im worried i might of broken something! So i unplugged the relay again and deflated the front two bags using inpa, i dont suppose you have any ideas do you? Haha
Yeah that’s a little strange , the first thing I would do would be checking the live data whilst it’s in operation. If they don’t deflate when you adjust the ride height then I’d be looking more towards the valve block possibly
@@edwardmurray9567 Faulty height sensors?
Great vid. Would the same process apply to a 2011 more or less?
Thanks , appreciated 👍 yes I can’t see why not
great video, very informative 👍
Thanks Jamie , very much appreciated👍
In my 322 i dont have this safety valvle ..does this create any problem?
Realy informative thanks
Thanks Paul 👍
Do you need to depressurize
The air suspension for removal?
No , just unplug it 👍
I got a conversion kit. Don’t have to worry about none of that anymore
Yes I get where your coming from. However you don’t get that ride quality with springs , hence why it’s fitted with air suspension 👍
Thanks for the help
Your welcome 👌
What size are the pipes connecting to the compressor and are fittings available to join the pipes?
Not sure about the sizes, would have to measure them . Yes , fittings are available you would have to have a look online 👍
Is that relief valve supposed to be on every model ??
There should be one somewhere, yes 👍
@@DrivewayHustlers I don't have one at all I'd say the previous owner removed it because I never found one would you have a part number or know the name of it so I could look it up or see if I can find one in a scrap dealers ?? Thanks for gettin back to me
Top vid, well done and big thanks
Cheers Buddy 👍
I had the same problem on my sport with the blower and it turned out it was a relay so check there
I tested the relay , and changed the final stage resistor and still no joy . I stripped the dash , replaced the blower motor and worked fine ever since 👍
thanks
Thanks Dave 👍
Хотел уточнить,перед снятием компрессора надо снимать минус с аккумулятора?Чтобы система не взяла ошибку?Заранее спасибо
Thanks 👍
@@DrivewayHustlers Do I need to remove the minus from the battery before removing the compressor?
No need to remove the (-)negative from the battery . Won’t make any difference 👍
Now i have anterior spring new complete,compressor new..and i have total car in super extended mode ..and suspension inactive abs inactive and hdc inactive.and the led of regulation off..i dont resolve i v controlled all fusible relé and obd clear but reappears averything ..I wouldn't want to switch to springs because the mechanics here in italy aren't capable on this car and those who are capable are expensive
Are you near Manchester?
North wales 👍
Dude, need to empty that ashtray 😬
If you go on www.luxuryLandRoverupgrades.com there's a lot of mods and upgrades for range Rovers and Land Rovers including rear view cameras