Thanks Matthew. I always learn something from your videos. It is very easy for me to get into the habit of always doing something the same way. Your videos provide me with new ideas to experiment with.
If the barrel arbor is tapered where it rides in the mainspring barrel. Does the mainspring barrel bushing need to be tapered as well? I figured it would nee to be, but not 100% sure.
Hi Franklin. I try keep the wall thickness similar to what was there before. Good question... In the barrel body probably 1.5mm wall and in the cap, it depends how much you bore out but I'd say about the same. From a conservation perspective, it is best to remove as little host material as possible. Obviously if the wall is so thin, it cannot be bored out or broached. Hope this helps. M
Often, as in the case of a French clock, the barrel body is soft soldered to the great wheel so there is a chance you would disturb that joint in soldering. If you have a one-piece barrel and great wheel then I suppose soft soldering would be ok. M
Very helpful video on boxwood chuck. I'm just curious why not just put the barrel into a three jawed chuck by gripping on the outer barrel next to the teeth. I'm sure you have a host of reasons not to do that and I'd be interested. Thanks
Hi Norman. Yes because of risk of damage to the barrel teeth and importantly, as many / most three jaw chucks are simply not that concentric and because the jaws are only spaced 120 degrees apart, the work will never go in quite the same. There are precision 6 jaw chucks on the market and coin chucks that will be good enough for domestic clocks but most people only have access to a regular three jaw. It doesn't matter how beat up your cluck is, the boxwood method pretty much guarantees concentricity. Hope this helps. M
you could use a chuck like this but I think they are £1,000.00 - piece of wood is effectively free :=) www.maprox.ch/en/clamping-chuck-jf-ultra-flat-type-a-b-c-w-dw.html
Thanks Matthew. I always learn something from your videos. It is very easy for me to get into the habit of always doing something the same way. Your videos provide me with new ideas to experiment with.
Thanks Brian. Yes, for us all there is learning and change to be had. Thanks for your kind comments.
Glad you’re back!
Thank you! Yes, it has been a while but have a new workspace now so content should come a bit more frequently. Thanks for watching.
Yes nice to see you Mathew thanks for your video
Thanks Paul. Sorry it has been so long!
Thanks for taking the time to pass on your expertise.
You are welcome. Hope it is of use. M
Hello
Very nice work.
Tank you for sharing
Pedro Silva
No problem. Thanks for your kind comments.
Great vid. Thanks for sharing.
Great work Matthew❤, thank you (I love your tool drawer stack!👍
Great job.
Thanks Mark
If the barrel arbor is tapered where it rides in the mainspring barrel. Does the mainspring barrel bushing need to be tapered as well? I figured it would nee to be, but not 100% sure.
Thank you Matthew. Can you state what the wall thickness of the bush will be after this rebushing?
Hi Franklin. I try keep the wall thickness similar to what was there before. Good question... In the barrel body probably 1.5mm wall and in the cap, it depends how much you bore out but I'd say about the same. From a conservation perspective, it is best to remove as little host material as possible. Obviously if the wall is so thin, it cannot be bored out or broached. Hope this helps. M
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thanks for your reply.
What is the advantage of riveting a new bushing in place rather than using solder? Very useful tip about the boxwood chuck - thanks.
Often, as in the case of a French clock, the barrel body is soft soldered to the great wheel so there is a chance you would disturb that joint in soldering. If you have a one-piece barrel and great wheel then I suppose soft soldering would be ok. M
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks That explains it. Thanks.
Very helpful video on boxwood chuck. I'm just curious why not just put the barrel into a three jawed chuck by gripping on the outer barrel next to the teeth. I'm sure you have a host of reasons not to do that and I'd be interested. Thanks
Hi Norman. Yes because of risk of damage to the barrel teeth and importantly, as many / most three jaw chucks are simply not that concentric and because the jaws are only spaced 120 degrees apart, the work will never go in quite the same. There are precision 6 jaw chucks on the market and coin chucks that will be good enough for domestic clocks but most people only have access to a regular three jaw. It doesn't matter how beat up your cluck is, the boxwood method pretty much guarantees concentricity. Hope this helps. M
you could use a chuck like this but I think they are £1,000.00 - piece of wood is effectively free :=) www.maprox.ch/en/clamping-chuck-jf-ultra-flat-type-a-b-c-w-dw.html