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Thanks @1crazypj for taking the time to write such useful feedback. It was somewhere in the back of my mind there would be a closer t.p.i. using chanewheels etc. This feedback will be invaluable to my watchers so thanks again and wishing you a Happy New Year. Matthew

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thanks for reply. I'm retired but still know some 'stuff' I thought it may be more use to your viewers as you seem pretty savvy machining.

@1crazypj Yes, appreciated. My learning has been through a relatively informal 'clockie' route so always looking for info from people who have actually done this stuff for a living. Again, very useful. M

Thanks Daryn. Very kind of you to think of me. That would be great. Very happy to buy and pay for postage. M. enquire@clockmaker-conservator.co.uk

Thanks Bradford for the ST. Really appreciated. Matthew

Thanks Bradford. Noted! Do you mean things like the different abrasive stones or metals or just in general? Vey happy to do something. May take a while :=) M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks In general, but more specifically the various metals and stones, or maybe the metals and a bit about what to use each type of stone for. I ask because starting out I didn't even know that steel wool would scratch brass; now I think I know the hardness of brass vs. annealed steel vs tempered steel, but don't know about silver steel and certainly don't know when to use each type of stone - then there's high speed steel vs carbon steel vs stuff you make gravers from vs pivot steel... you can see why my head's in a whirl. Thanks

@@BradfordNeedham Thanks Bradford! It will take an amount of time, will put something together. M

@@BradfordNeedham Main problem is going to be which hardness scale you use for steel and what your going to compare it with. As for grinding wheels, bench grinder uses aluminium oxide for steel and silicon carbide or diamond coated for hard materials. The type of wheel (grain size, bond, etc) is kinda specialised. I trained as a precision machinist mid 1970's (sub 5 micron tolerance) and still know very little about grinding except if wheel explodes, it can kill you. Place I once worked had precision grinders, four inch wide, twenty inch diameter wheel 'let go' . Bent machine guard then went through brick wall into winding shop managers office. He was 'fine' (except for change of underwear.

Happy New Year to you too

Thanks Brian. Appreciated. M

Very cool. I just watched your video! Nice work. M. Wishing you. Happy New Year

Hi John, yes I learned that from my tutor at college. Use a piece of brass to guide the blade and get an even depth of cut! M

Thanks Franklin! Happy New Year to you too! M&R

Gracias por tus amables comentarios. Feliz año nuevo para ti también.

Happy New Year to you too. Thanks for your kind feedback.

Hi Alex. It looks like your calculation is good. Have you cut the pinion? The roots of the leaves can be very thin. Once they are hardened it shouldn't be a problem. Obviously if they turn out to be so thin that the leaves fall over during manufacture or finishing then all you can do is move to the next smallest module (0.35?). You cannot make the PCD bigger, you have to maintain the relative ratio of the wheel a pinion. If you can, it I totally worth cutting a trial pinion (do it in brass to make things easier?) and try it with the wheel to see how it goes before buying another cutter? Let me know how you get on. M

@howtorepairpendulumclocks Hi cheers for getting back to me . I think a trial cut would be a good idea on my 4th shaft and blank pinion now lol 😆 all good practice. The shaft size is 0.5mm. Looking at the 3rd wheel pinion, the leaves looking end on are cut like a V between the teeth. How then did that in 1690? I have no idea. But you might be right. I may have to go small on the module. Have a great Christmas 🎄 if I'm still stuck after Chrstmas, I will be back to pick your brains lol many thanks

@@WhiteRabbit1980 Good luck! Pinion cutting is challenging, never mind at these small sizes...

No problem. My pleasure!

Good point! :=) Yes, been there!

That is a good question! I remember spending quite some time experimenting when I made my present bench. When I am back in I will check. Best thing is to get your vice with something clamped in to file and experiment. Watch Bech is significantly higher and used sat on a stool. Clock work is typically standing. V useful section in Watchmaking by Daniels on the subject of workshop layout. M. I'll get back to you.

There are hooks at both ends. One is formed as a tongue punched in the barrel wall and the other is a rivet or cut from the solid in the barrel arbor (axle). Most domestic clocks are like this so the mainspring has holes at both ends that get caught on the hooks or 'hookings' as they are known. Some other clocks such as marine chronometers sometimes have the hook on the end of the mainspring and a hole in the barrel wall but it is the same idea... M

Thanks Michael for your kind feedback and message. I would buy a boxed Bergen set of broaches. You only need one at each size. What I have done is collect dozens over the years and they all over-lap in sizes, not at all efficient. You will also need a round section very fine needle file or escapement file to draw across the hole when correcting depthing. For bushes, I would buy the packets of Bergeon ones as you go. Again I bought a set 25 years ago and will never use many of the less popular sizes. If you can, drill out the bushes to just under pivot size then finish to final size with a broach. This way you insert a relatively thin walled bush which helps preserve host material. Hope this helps. Matthew

@howtorepairpendulumclocks helps very much! Thank you!

Thanks for your kind feedback

Thank you! Very kind.

Thank you for your kind feedback. :=) Glad you enjoyed it.

Entschuldigung, ich verstehe die Frage nicht?

Hi Thijs. This is a good question! Hardening and tempering is always a balance between hardness, brittleness , strength and wear resistance. You seem to have the drills on the brittle side. You could only try hardening the tip by protecting the shank with a heat-sink when heating. I think though the hardening process is fine but once you have hardened the drill, you need to temper it to reduce brittleness. Do this by first cleaning the shank of the drill with fine abrasive paper so you can see clean shiny metal. Then, with the drill on a piece of scrap brass sheet, heat from underneath with a spirit lamp. Heat slowly from the shank end (not the drilling tip) and the steel will slowly turn pale yellow, brown, blue etc. When the very palest yellow just about reaches the drill tip, stop the heating. If this goes too far, you will have to re-harden and start again. This tempering process will make the shank of the drill less brittle. Hope this helps! Matthew

Hi Matthew, thank you for your extensive reply. I willl try to temper them as such next time, In the mean while I made a 0.7mm drill without affecting the pivot steels properties, and it has not broken yet. This checks out I guess due to the pivot steel already being tempered, although I do notice the drill being slightly more blunt after lathe usage (probably since pivot steel is tempered to blue?). Your videos hasve really helped my incline plane clock build. Cheers, Thijs.

@@thijsrikkerink6333 Yes, blues pivot steel as found will work but as you say, it is relatively soft so will need lots of re-sharpening or re-hardening the tip. Good material though to use as blanks. M

Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciated.

I just finished my work with this clock and it came through beautifully. It just required thinking things through before just diving into it. Of course, these are time=only movements, so you're not dealing with that complication. Winding a fusee clock is somewhat reminiscent of winding a weight driven clock. The winding tension doesn't really change going from unwound to fully wound. And of course that translates into a very consistent rate over the course of the run time. I'd like to see more of these in my work.

Thanks for your kind feedback. I'm glad you found the video of use. Probably too late now but I would recommend a gut line between 1.4 and 1.5mm diameter. M

@@halnwheels Interesting observation re the winding force. A good sign that the mainspring is matched to the fusee. Good luck with future repairs and thanks again for your feedback! M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thanks for both your replies. The line I used is more like 1.2mm. I'll remember for next time. The stopwork action is secure.

@@halnwheels Magic. Sounds good. M

Thanks Keith for your kind feedback. never say never! M

Thanks for your kind feedback. Appreciated. M

Glad it was of use. Thanks for your kind feedback.

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Wondered if you could help me Mathew please, I'm repairing a verge pocket watch movement from 1690, the contrate wheel I'm having to make is O/D 13.1mm with 48 T, I have made one already, using lorch schmidt dividing head with Slotting saw to get the witness cut, anyway long story short, to do the job well need to buy a cutter from PP Thornton, can you tell me if for a contrate wheel has a different calculation as the teeth of the wheel as you know are facing up may thanks again Alex

@@WhiteRabbit1980 Hi Alex. Sounds like a cool project. The cutter is the same, you just have a slightly greater challenge in calculating the pitch circle diameter of the crown wheel pinion to calculate the module. If the cutters are in 0.5 module steps like the bigger sizes, I'd tend to go for the larger size as for any given diameter (PCD on a contrate wheel) you will have slightly narrower teeth (wider gaps) which is good as it allows more scope on depthing. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on. PS. When you make the black for the contrite wheel and you maybe already know this, turn the section where the teeth are to a near V on the inside so the wheel tapers towards the tips (on the inside). M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thanks for getting back to me, Yeah so what I did on the first Contrate was I had no contrate it had been removed by someone in a previous life, so I Used the PCD of the 3rd wheel not the O/D, to give me a PCD of 13.10mm the reason I went for the 3rd wheel is the tooth count is a 48T the same as I need for the contrate.So I turned the o/d on the contrate to 13.10mm and removed the material out the centre etc had 144 hole on the dividing head 48 x 3 =144, Which when I did full rotation witness cut on the 13.10mm blank the spacing was spot on. Like you said ( which is a big help) if I take the PCD 13.10mm divide that by 48= 0.27 module , your saying correct me if Im wrong :-) I should go slightly higher on the module as the teeth on the contrate are thinner with wider square bottom. If so what module would you consider if it was you. I want to get it right as the movement is by J Haakma Thanks again Mathew much appreciated

Hello Mathew, I just purchased a 0.30 gear square bottom cutter for the Contrate . Plus a 6 leave 0.40 pinon cutter, lets see how that goes. All part of the fun. again thankyou for sharing your skills and knowledge 🙂

Thanks for your input.

Thanks for your kind feedback! M

Thanks Eddie for your feedback.

if you send me a couple of images via email happy to have a look. Matthew

Thank you for your kind feedback. Appreciated.

Hi Bradford. A good question. Without doubt if you are doing a lot of soldering and want one solution to last a lifetime I would go for the Sievert professional system with a seperate propane tank and two or three different sized burner heads. toolshouse.co.uk/products/sievert-pro-86-torch-kit-with-regulator-and-2m-hose?variant=41393479581894&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC1c8H9z7T35qfINfhjQ3leb7RZYM&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvIXCqOjiiAMVjZRQBh3o8itHEAQYBSABEgJL__D_BwE. If you are just doing the occasional bit of soldering, get one of the ones with the burner fixed directly to the top of the canister; the DIY type. In addition to either one of these you will need a spirit burner for small soft-soldering and blueing jobs. IMO the creme brûlée type are dangerous and annoying and should be avoided. Hope this helps! Thanks for your continued support. M

@@ArtBites Thank you for your kind feedback. Here is a video I made in lockdown on that subject. Its a bit informal but hopefully has the info you need. M m.ruclips.net/video/6pjGC-k0v7I/видео.html

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks thank you so much! That is exactly what I've been looking for!

@@rooftoppete thank you for kind feedback, glad it was of use. Appreciated.