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@@ArtBites Thank you for your kind feedback. Here is a video I made in lockdown on that subject. Its a bit informal but hopefully has the info you need. M m.ruclips.net/video/6pjGC-k0v7I/видео.html

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks thank you so much! That is exactly what I've been looking for!

@@rooftoppete thank you for kind feedback, glad it was of use. Appreciated.

@@cmj2b It is called the winding ratchet or winding work comprising ratchet click, ratchet wheel and ratchet click spring. Hope this helps. M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks awesome. Just what I was looking for thanks🫶🏾

100% natural gut line. Metal wire rope is not suitable due to the relatively small radius as the narrow end of the fusee. Video here... ruclips.net/video/SPVnAbIUal0/видео.html

@@clc7800 Thank you. Appreciated. M

@@yvesrochet3288 Thank you!

When editing the video I wondered whether anyone would pick up on that! Well spotted. You are right; not best practice for sure. When I next make a lathe based vid I will mention it. Thanks again for your feedback. Matthew

@@edwardmanukyan454 Thank you!

Thank you!!!

Thanks Mark for your kind feedback. Hope you are doing well. M

@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.

@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.

@@lohikarhu734 thank you, appreciated. M

That's a good point, there was a little bit of vagueness to the indexing for sure. The improvement you suggest would be useful if you were cutting something like an escape wheel that needed a bit more stability. M

Thank you for your feedback! Yes, always a frustration when limits of available tools etc limit your work. M

Hi Ian. It is a washing machine motor I think? My landlord is a heating engineer and he threw it together for me. I will send you some snaps of it in situ! Yes the arbor/mandril is held in place by a draw-bar. In the shot of the dividing plate you can see the handle I made to tighten the draw-bar. I set the depth of cut by slowly moving the cutter down, locking it between cuts and waiting for the blue land to almost disappear. Ideally you stop just before the line goes altogether but somewhere in that region. With Thornton cutters it is in theory possible to lower the cutter so it just touches the wheel blank then lower it by the specified amount. If it were on a 102 I could do that but on the Myford vertical slide it is just easier to do it slowly over a dozen successive cuts. Hope this helps and hope you are well. M

Thanks Dell. Hope you are well. M

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks yes keeping well , enjoying retirement all well your end.

Thank you for your kind feedback! Appreciated.

Thanks Franklin! M

Hi Tim. This supplier is excellent... www.brasscastings.co.uk/12-58-diam-soft-yellow-brass-rod-suitable-for-clock-restoration

Good point, I put it in the description now M

Thanks gents !

Hi Darryl Thanks for your kind feedback. When you begin hammering the brass the hammer kind of sinks in like hitting a piece of plasticine. After a while the hammer bounces and the tone changes. Bit of experience I suppose. On the edge of the material you can also see it gets compressed. Obvs if you hammer it too much it cracks and you have to start again. CZ120 also responds to further work hardening... just get a piece of scrap brass cz120 and experiment. Cast brass is really unpredictable. M

You are welcome! M

Thanks Graham, appreciated.,,..M

Thank you! Really appreciated. Makes all the difference!

Yes it would. You would have to make a jewel but using diamond that is not maybe as difficult as it seems. In a clock a jewel I agree would look nice but really offers you no advantage over dead-hard polished steel. Would be a nice exercise to make one though!

​@@howtorepairpendulumclocksThanks, I might just try that. I have a friend who is a jeweler who may be able to help.

Thanks David for your support. Really appreciated. Makes all the difference.

Thank you,,, appreciated. M

Thanks as always Ian for your kind feedback. M

Thanks Franklin. Hope you are well. M

Thanks Dell. Ah yes I didnt think of that re deeper locking on those escapements. Good point. Hope you are well. M

Thank you. Appreciated. Hope you are well. M

Thank you!

Thank you for your kind feedback.

Thank you for the ST! Really appreciated. Makes all the difference.

Thank you!

Thank you! Appreciated as always. Matthew

Ha! Yes these repairs can last a long time! :=) Gotta start somewhere...

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks i know, as said i needed to repair the broken Mainspring of my Junghans tableclock(?) In german: Tischuhr) and i couldn't for the love of god find a replacement. So i heated what was left up, bent an new tab to hold it in the Barrel and Well...now the clock only runs for 6 instead of 7 days...but it worked...

Thanks Edward - appreciated

Thanks John.

Thanks Col. Will do. M

Thanks for your kind feedback. M

I use them mainly for cleaning clock components, plates, wheels etc. Many other uses but mainly cleaning. You should be able to find them at specialist clockmaker suppliers such as Walsh and Cousins here in the UK> They are not always called GLASGOW, sometimes just watchmaker brushes. No2 is the most common 'hardness'. The GLASGOW ones are made in France and great quality... Hope this helps. M www.cousinsuk.com/product/natural-bristle-brushes-handheld

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks Thank you very much :) that is really helpful. I really enjoy your videos. The narration is great as you mention things others gloss over and explain your thinking and reasoning rather than just describing. I've already started loading up my cousins basket with some of the tools you suggested (and more in my saved items) because I can now understand how they will be beneficial.

Tak for din venlige feedback; værdsat. Matthew

@@richardclement9637 thanks Richard, your feedback appreciated. Matthew

Great! Thank you for the kind response. Move vids to follow! M

Hi Roger. That sounds like great work you are doing with the repair cafe. As for the lines, you may find natural gut is a bit less stringy than monofilament fishing line if that is what you are using presently. I use gut from Bow Brand. A braided line in Polyester or Dyneema can also work. As for getting the clock to the clients house without the lines becoming tangled, I would always let the lines right out. Not a fan of masking tape, pieces of cork etc. Yes, let both lines right out and either tie the line with cotton tape or place in a bag etc. that way you have every oportunity to wind them on the barrel nice and neatly. With Longcase clocks, once the lines are out, wrap them round the seaboard in a figure of 8. Just a word of warning... some weight driven German wall clocks have the barrel end of the line fitting in a keyhole. If this is the case, make double sure the line is fitted securely when the barrel is first wound. Same for the other end. Hope this helps. Yours, Matthew

@@howtorepairpendulumclocks thanks Matthew for your help and encouragement. Is your book available? It does not seem to be on Amazon other than a Kindle version?