Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness. You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp. Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
Thank you so so much. This video really helped me! Only place I could find the correct colors for my right column signal or right rear speaker wire. I subscribed just because if this lol! You rock
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Thats how the audio shop did my install my amp wouldn't stay in place I moved it to the hidden front seat console and here soon will be doing a 3" rear seat lift and making a box to fit behind the seat it will be tight but will be much nicer having under seat space again. Very clean install there though
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated. I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires?? I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp. I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input. would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
So the fuse you tapped is a constant feed... thats a selectable constant/ignition port. The female spade toward the front that is open is your ignition. The easiest location to run power in those trucks is to drll a hole in firewall on appsenger side and use a grommet and silicone. The LOC you used provided your remote output through signal sense. Being you ran a remote, the only wires you needed to wire was the speaker leads. To mount the amp, cut the rear sound deadening material away and use a 1/2" piece of plywood and "L" bracket the board to the floor. This is my profession... just giving you some tips for the next install.
I got a question.....I'm getting ready to do an install on my truck. I'm going to use the Lp7-2 PAC line output converter. The way i understand it if i supply +12 vdc, ground and a + and - from a speaker then it when it sees voltage from the speaker input it sends + voltage to the remote wire to tell the amp to come on? Is that right?
Jake P Thats correct. It uses what’s called a signal sense. When the LOC senses an input voltage from the speaker leads it activates the remote lead. There some vehicles that it doesn’t function as intended. Meaning you may have to turn the volume up for the actual signal to be adequate enough to activate the remote lead.
@@lwoodard272008 alright thanks! I have never needed a loc, I usually upgrade the head unit as well. But hopefully what I have bought works. Thanks for your help.
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
Hello I have a question I put my amp and speakers it did work but when I put the truck in drive and put gas it sounds really really loud do you know why
Im installing subs on my 15 silverado but im running into a problem. both my leads from the side pannels that I had to tap into to get speakers signal, have current but then once i plug in to line-out converter and out to the amp it still not getting subs to turn on or amp. amp has buttons that light up green when its on and nothing. And remote wast tapped into like how u did it, ground was grounded like yours aswell, and the power wire also has current on the amp when i test it. I need help😂
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system. Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3) LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up) Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc) that should really be it.
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
Wired everything the way you did and my subs barely move and produce very little sound. I'm not sure if its because my truck came with the Bose system. Or if it's my loc(I used a cheap loc). I have yet to get a ohm meter to test for good power and ground. If anyone has had this problem, send help😂
Soo ur doing those signal wire because your hooking those speakers to the amp right? But if ur not doing that then u dnt need that signal wire or do u ???
Amp has to receive a signal from somewhere otherwise how does it know what music to play? Aftermarket head units will sometimes have RCA outputs however the majority of stock head units don’t. So to get the music signal to the amp you use a line out converter. This allows you to convert the factory high level signal to a low level and hence use RCAs.
Is it necessary to tap into both side speaker wires for the line output converter? I saw a guy who only tapped into one side it appeared but haven't installed one myself yet
You can tap one side for two subs but some songs take advantage of both left and right differences. If you’re running a single sub you can definitely tap one side only.
jaime8311 so sorry for the late response. Im sure you already did the job. But yes the colors were the same. In both harnesses the speaker wires are the only two bigger gauge wires so theyre easy to pick out from the other smaller ones
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
It’s feb 2022 and I just got my hands on a 2015 I’m going to be doing an install but instead of doing a under seat box I’ll make a box that has 2 10” skar. I’m planning on compromising one seat either middle or driver side passenger to have a box that starts at the bottom and then partially sits on the seat. The amp will be under the seat for easier tuning adjustments. I do have a question though. Was the stereo aftermarket on your project ? What exactly do I need to get the signal into the amp ? I’m guessing oem stereo doesn’t come with rcas lol. Any advice would help man. Great video all in all ! Very informative 💯👌🏼
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
Modern amps like this especially your class D produce very little heat of any. I’ve had the same setup in my own 2014 Silverado for 5 years now. No issues.
Only thing to do is go back over your wiring. 1) do you have a good ground. 2) is the remote turn on in a good fuse location or wired in somewhere correctly. If these two are good the amp should turn on
Man, did this bring back some memories. I remember not wanting to cut the boot because water could get in to the interior so we were lazy and just ran the power wire through the door jam and then under the interior trim pieces. LOL!!! Oh to be young and stupid again. Cool vid!
You can put clear silicone where you cut even tho water won’t get in that’s what I did when I was younger and scared about the same thing lol
Went from thinking I could do this to knowing I can’t do this. Thanks for saving me the headache lol .
U don't gotta do both sides just one for the loc
lol I came away thinking the exact opposite. I thought it was pretty straight forward,just takes a sec.
@@highlifegoodlife5400 why don’t you have to do both ?
Cuz u only have to tap into the driver side pillar. No point in doin both there's lots of videos on it.
GenZ smh
It actually sounds like it hits pretty good. I got a 19 Silverado crew cab. except I’m going to be running 4 8s dc audio subs with a 4K amp. Gonna run 0 Ga all around. Sound deaden the back doors to keep rattles away. Have an XS POWER D3400 Battery on the way along with an upgraded alternator to handle to the voltage. And seeing this video has me super stoked for the finish install. Great video!
You don't have to get your accessory power from the fuse box. It's much easier to get it from the body control module which is the black box you mentioned having to take the cover off of. The female connectors that are sold everywhere will fit the auxiliary tabs on the BCM and you can just plug your accessory wire on one of the ignition tabs that aren't being used just make sure you add a fuse.
Curious what size fuse for a power turn on lead for an amp? A friend wants me to install a sub in her 2017 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD. Maybe 1 sub since she doesn't blare her tunes like I do. Her truck seriously lacks bass.
Just used this as guide and installed my subs in less that 4 hrs thanks alot
Glad it helped!
The walkthrough is super clear. Great job. Thank you :)
This helped a lot for my 2016 silverado! Thank you
Were the speaker wires the same colors on your 2016?
@mikeshanks1266 yes they were
Hell yeah just what I needed straight to the point 🙏
People have said connecting to the back speakers makes it sound bad. Instead connecting it to the factory sub wires made a huge difference in sound quality.
This truck doesn’t have a factory sub. And you don’t want to connect to the factory sub due to the factory amp having a set eq and bass roll off that will affect the output and tuning capabilities of your sub and amp!
WOW! That's awesome and a very helpful video! Everyone was saying oh u have to buy a special type of wiring harness off of Amazon to hook up to the factory touchscreen in the truck and a bunch of other junbo up stuff that videos were showing but geez since i already have the stuff,i can go ahead and hook up my subs since it was this simple 😅
If you have the Bose system you will have to tap in the factory behind the back seat. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-).
@@TyBohler Thanks for the updated info 🤙
Good video but for anyone that has these newer models. DONT be lazy and tap into the rear speakers. You won't get the full frequency signal. Tap in behind the head unit or buy a T harness.
You can see for your self when you fade your music to the rear of the cab. Gets reall quiet.
Glad you mentioned this, my friend's 2017 Sierra did this. Set the volume to the rear speakers and they acted like "rear fill". They rear plays lower then the front. Since it's a used truck I thought the stock amp must have fried outputs.
Yup, should have taped into front speakers in that model!
Yea the rear speakers only go to 60% volume
Nice install. You will get better performance out of your subs if you switch your LOC for a Audio Control LC2i. It will keep the bass from rolling off at higher volumes.
Any active LOC will work just fine.
@@richf2834 of course. But the factory system has a bass roll off as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC2i, LC7i and so on have built in features that compensate for said roll off giving you a consistent volume output to your amp with no roll off. I'm not very good at explaining it. Besides an amp pro from PAC i feel it's the proper way to integrate with any factory head unit after 2003. IMO
@@Hoppysjunkyardrally there are better products for cheaper prices than audio control series LOC. NVX XLCA2 is a perfect example. Any active LOC will do the job. Hence the reason they call it a ACTIVE line out. No need to spend 100+ dollars. IMO. The main reason people do LOC is to save money lmao.
@@richf2834 I never said it wasn't an option or that you can't use it. I just stated you notice a difference with the LC2i compared to a standard "active" loc. 90% of my customers keep the factory radio because of the fit and factory features and I always offer both loc options. Some go inexpensive and other's spend the extra.We all have our own way and budget and if it works for you and you're happy with how it sounds then that's great! I've used both and I prefer the Audio Control part on anything newer than 2003.
And "active" on a loc means it gives you a remote output for the amp through signal sense from the input.
Why would u not just use a interface plug adapter at the back of the radio. No splicing. Just plug and play
Best video for this model truck sub/amp install.
Appreciate it!
So everytime i want to make adjustments to my amp i have to remove the back seat? Doesn’t seem like a very convenient location. Also amps make alot of heat and need ventilation im sure its not getting that in that tight space behind the seat. Other than that i love how you ran and spliced the wires
Great instructional video, you guys are GREAT!!👍👍
@@o.w.dobbins6927 appreciate it!
So Pro work .. God bless you .. we just need the connecters names and links to find it .. also the fuse adapter and all.
thank you
Everyone does things differently (i get it) but i’ve always used some sort of pin/needle to poke a hole in the rubber boot. Keeps the boot from tearing like it does when you cut a slit in it. Overall I like this, plan to do it to my ‘17 Silverado
Those taps make it some much easier
I installed my system on a 2018 Silverado and I wired it exactly how you did yours and I can feel the music playing through the subs but they don’t hit even with that amp turned all the way up and I adjusted the line out converter and still didn’t change anything
You ever get it working?
I had the same problem. So instead of splicing into the rear door speakers, I just spliced into the factory sub wires off the Bose amp. This is the last plug on the right edge of the Bose amp.
Dk. Blue/Grey(+) Grey/Black(-)
Ok so on the rca converter the blue wire taths a remote wire you can get signal from there, for ur amplifier to turn off and on, so u don’t have to hook up from the fuse box, Taths a cool feature, also the power wire and the ground wire from the converter you can connectem to the amplifier (ground) and (power) get ‘em from there and you all set, good video it was helpful, salu2 from tx
Really good Video looking forward to install in my GMC sierra 👍🏼
Rigoberto, are the gmc sierra signal wires on the door harness the same as in the video?
@@MrArturoDominguez Almost everything should be the same as far as wiring harnesses go.
I’m going to try to do all this thanks for how you explain all this simple an easy thank you
Hay thanks there is a lot of videos out there about this subject , but they all make it look so damn difficult! You really did a nice job . Thanks from texas
Thank you!
Thank you so so much. This video really helped me! Only place I could find the correct colors for my right column signal or right rear speaker wire. I subscribed just because if this lol! You rock
Appreciate the sub. Glad the video helped! 👊🏻
the only time I remove everything when I installed my AR safe. for speakers hell no. Great Video
For the line out converter I'm using a LC7i line output converter can I run the same wires like you did from the middle post on the connectors and what's the wiring you used for the positive and negative?
Great video,big help for me.gonna attempt this job on my 15 chevy 2500.
do you have the bose system?
Thanks bro. You saved me $200.
Glad it helped homie!
I used a old oil dipstick to fish the power wire through the firewall, worked pretty good! Can confirm
Remove the factory long antenna works great with some electrical tape.
Does this work for the trucks with the Bose system?
Duhhh
I actually just tried to do this same install I have power amp turns on but no sound is coming out of subs did exactly everything you did like for like what am I missing
Thats how the audio shop did my install my amp wouldn't stay in place I moved it to the hidden front seat console and here soon will be doing a 3" rear seat lift and making a box to fit behind the seat it will be tight but will be much nicer having under seat space again. Very clean install there though
I'm just trying to figure this out for my first amp install, having installed many radios in the past but never an amp. This looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated.
I am assuming you are connecting this to the factory stereo and therefore didn't have RCA outputs and thus needed to use the converter box and tap the speaker wires??
I'm using an aftermarket stereo that has all type of outputs on it for the amp.
I was also planning to use the power antenna lead from the radio as a trigger switch for the amp. I haven't checked yet if it provides constant power or not but I think it does. I'm not interested in having my amp powered whenever the truck ignition is on, I just want it powered when the RADIO is on. I'm interested to check some other videos and see if this fused trigger wire is normal. I was not planning to fuse it. I can understand fusing the high power input.
would have been nice to see the stereo that is feeding the system just for information. Also curious if you had to remove any seatbelt anchors and if so did you have any problem. In my '99 the rear seatbelts have a plastic cover mounted to the floor pan and I can't figure out how you'd ever remove it without just ripping it off and piecing it back together later. I see no attachment points accessible from the outside but it does appear to use a type of plastic 1-way pop in rivet with the holding strength of Hercules..
I don’t remember it being this difficult back in the day lol bunch of extra stuff
And it’s only getting more difficult. They keep adding extra stuff!
going through that rubber grommit was the hardest part of the install lol
YES it is!!!
Do factory stereos still not have rca jacks on them? I haven’t ran an amp in my truck in 15 years and I remember having to use a line converter then in a factory stereo set up. Hard to believe they still don’t give you the ability to hook an amp up in this day and age.
Would it be the same for a 2015 chevy silverado? Looking to install a system have done it to older cars but this would be my first silverado dont look much diffrent or difficult to do but it has to be the same right as this one?
what if I dont want to use the stock speaker wires and swap em out for 12 gauge wires, will I still need to tap in from the stock speaker wires?
So the fuse you tapped is a constant feed... thats a selectable constant/ignition port. The female spade toward the front that is open is your ignition. The easiest location to run power in those trucks is to drll a hole in firewall on appsenger side and use a grommet and silicone. The LOC you used provided your remote output through signal sense. Being you ran a remote, the only wires you needed to wire was the speaker leads. To mount the amp, cut the rear sound deadening material away and use a 1/2" piece of plywood and "L" bracket the board to the floor. This is my profession... just giving you some tips for the next install.
I got a question.....I'm getting ready to do an install on my truck. I'm going to use the Lp7-2 PAC line output converter. The way i understand it if i supply +12 vdc, ground and a + and - from a speaker then it when it sees voltage from the speaker input it sends + voltage to the remote wire to tell the amp to come on? Is that right?
Jake P Thats correct. It uses what’s called a signal sense. When the LOC senses an input voltage from the speaker leads it activates the remote lead. There some vehicles that it doesn’t function as intended. Meaning you may have to turn the volume up for the actual signal to be adequate enough to activate the remote lead.
@@lwoodard272008 alright thanks! I have never needed a loc, I usually upgrade the head unit as well. But hopefully what I have bought works. Thanks for your help.
I got 2016 silverado and got the bose system. I wanna do the same as in video but do you think it will soubd good keeping factory door speakers
I plan on doing the exact same thing but I need to by pass the factory amplifier, that way I don't get door chime or seatbelt chime noise coming though the subs.
What this still work if i have Bose audio that came in the truck
Thank you know I can blast music on my way to school 😂
You didn’t have to do anything with the head unit?
@@adamheath7448 nope, everything is wired in the B pillars for signal to the LOC since the head unit has no outputs.
Thanks for the video guys! That was really helpful for me to setup my new bass in my Silverado…regards…
I need help with the same truck. I blew the entire system* I wasn't paying attention and I hooked up the sub wires to the door input signal and POW! The screen still works only has 0 sound (No Soumd from anything) so I bought a new factory radio have Chevy install/program it and still no sound. Any ideas? Chevy has non thank you. Oh and do not be distracted while installing AMPS
So does the amp also connect to the speakers on the dash
Tried following this thought i did good lol sub works mint but neither windiw on the drivers side will go down lol
Did you nick a wire or something ?
Thanks for the video it helped alot.. One question where did you end up getting your remote signal from afterall if it wasn't from the #2 fuse?
Doing a single 12 install for my 2020 silverado 2500 on tuesday
Hello I have a question I put my amp and speakers it did work but when I put the truck in drive and put gas it sounds really really loud do you know why
Can you help me I did the same thing you did my truck is a 2014 Chevy Silverado
Mannnn this video really helped! Thank you!
Did this have a stock head unit and stock door speakers ?
So where did you get the remote wire and power ? It is just any type of wire?
You don’t have to get behind the radio ?
Im installing subs on my 15 silverado but im running into a problem. both my leads from the side pannels that I had to tap into to get speakers signal, have current but then once i plug in to line-out converter and out to the amp it still not getting subs to turn on or amp. amp has buttons that light up green when its on and nothing. And remote wast tapped into like how u did it, ground was grounded like yours aswell, and the power wire also has current on the amp when i test it. I need help😂
Is it a bad idea to put it on a lowered 2014 Silverado that already takes power out of the battery? My question is will it take too much power of the battery to make it not work
Did you keep the stock radio or swapped in different video?
What type of fuse tap did you use I can’t find non that fit the fuses on the truck
Any chance you can drop the list for the things you needed to buy? I’m looking to do this as well. Everything but the subs and amp themselves would be perfect, thanks in advance
Amp wiring kit: I suggest no more than 8 ga. Boss audio makes a good system.
Add a fuse: 10a (and an extra 10a fuse or 3)
LOC (depending on how youre hooking it up)
Basic hand tools (screw driver, plastic prying tools, wire strippers, wire crimpers, heat shrink wrap, electrical tape just in case, etc)
that should really be it.
@@cavdrkz24 do you need to add those extra fuses if you aren’t doing the remote turn on ?
I realize the amp isn’t seen but that part of the install could have been cleaner. Other than that it looked great.
There are multiple problems with this install I really hope he’s improved.
This install was garbage imo. Knowledgeable for beginners sure. But wire management and securing and running the wires gives me a headache lol
Do you remember which kit you went with?
Don’t remember the exact one but this is very similar. a.co/d/59SOsYK
@@JordanMoree Kool thanks bro
How do you adjust your amp back in that hole like that?
You don’t. Make your adjustments first. He already had this same setup in his previous truck so we didn’t have to mess with it.
Lol that doesn’t matter you used a new line out converter and it’s in a new vehicle meaning your input signal from your line out won’t have identical voltage on them. You always always do a fresh tune on a new install. I also don’t understand why you felt the need to run the power wire across the engine bay as not only is power wire costly but the longer your power wire is the less efficient the current flows. You’ve also introduced a new location that water could leak through and you gave it a direct path to the vehicles main electrical components and I didn’t see any silicon. Just some words of advise as it can be very costly for you if something you did were to cause an issue to a customers vehicle.
@@mugs2169 Last time I checked if you don't sink your vehicle, water doesn't hit those spots on the firewall. They use the rubber to mainly keep dirt out and it's the only way to feed wires, tubing, or a steering column through.
@@RiseAboveFilmsLLC haha you really think water won’t hit those spots especially in a truck? I do this for a living I’ve seen some bad water damage from installs that were not siliconed it literally only takes a pin hole. Not only that I’ve seen vehicles brought in when someone had a slip up trying to go right next to the factory harness and gouge the wires. It literally takes no time to put some silicon around the new hole. Some leaks are small and people won’t see as it slips under the carpet and under the floor mats which can lead to mold before you’d even realize. Every firewall entry from the factory is waterproofed. I’m liable for every car I work on and my labor is guaranteed for life. Trust me it’s not worth the risk I’ve seen thousands of dollars in damage why risk it on a vehicle you need to be safe and reliable?
Good job bro, did you hook the bass knob up or did you leave it off
I wish you would of said which subwoofer it is …… they make a few shallow mount subs
Can someone break down the wiring for the line out converter? Also the remote wire goes into the converter and the amp?
I know this video is old but is it necessary to get signal from both speakers? I might just install one subwoofer
If you’re just doing one or even two you can just run one signal. Some songs take bass signal from the left and right. But one signal works just fine.
Would this be the same for a 2500 duramax?
did the bottom of your seats lock with the box underneath?
It’s been a while but I’m pretty certain they did.
Wired everything the way you did and my subs barely move and produce very little sound. I'm not sure if its because my truck came with the Bose system. Or if it's my loc(I used a cheap loc).
I have yet to get a ohm meter to test for good power and ground. If anyone has had this problem, send help😂
What do u mean by signal wires ? Wen connecting to lineout converter ,u mean left and right speaker ?
Speaker wires send a signal. So yes
You didn’t even have to touch or do anything to the factory stereo?
factory head unit does not have to be removed at all if you do it the way I did
@@JordanMoree what did you run the blue remote wire too?
SEO RAP Fuse slot in the drive side fuse box. Then that runs to the amp itself.
Hey what i need to buy i have 2014 silverado
How did you make it work without pulling out the screen and the radio unit
Soo ur doing those signal wire because your hooking those speakers to the amp right? But if ur not doing that then u dnt need that signal wire or do u ???
Amp has to receive a signal from somewhere otherwise how does it know what music to play? Aftermarket head units will sometimes have RCA outputs however the majority of stock head units don’t. So to get the music signal to the amp you use a line out converter. This allows you to convert the factory high level signal to a low level and hence use RCAs.
I got a 2017 siverado. What is the best 10 inches shallow mount subwoofer.
Skar , JL audio, sundown
Is it necessary to tap into both side speaker wires for the line output converter? I saw a guy who only tapped into one side it appeared but haven't installed one myself yet
You can tap one side for two subs but some songs take advantage of both left and right differences. If you’re running a single sub you can definitely tap one side only.
@@JordanMoree ok thanks. Single kicker comp r 10 is what's getting put in. Did your amp install method hold up? Or rip out also.
@@69CRUZR held up great
Are the wire colors in the door plugs the same with the bose systems if im still using the line out converter
Not sure on the Bose systems. Sorry
KC & KC! Did you figure it out? I’m about to do my truck.
jaime8311 so sorry for the late response. Im sure you already did the job. But yes the colors were the same. In both harnesses the speaker wires are the only two bigger gauge wires so theyre easy to pick out from the other smaller ones
I’m Confused from my civic days but do you need a aftermarket stereo or this for stock 7 inch display???
You dont need the line out put convertor if you have a aftermarket deck.
Justyn Sisson gotcha I was confused why he never went behind the stock deck but that makes sense with the line output converter cause I have stock Thanks!
I got a question what color is the ground wire benhind the radio??
What’s the name of the JL audio 12 that shallow enough to fit in that box
Don't forget to tell people to disconnect ground first. Alot of people look to this for guidance better safe than sorry
This work whit Bose systems?
It’s feb 2022 and I just got my hands on a 2015 I’m going to be doing an install but instead of doing a under seat box I’ll make a box that has 2 10” skar. I’m planning on compromising one seat either middle or driver side passenger to have a box that starts at the bottom and then partially sits on the seat. The amp will be under the seat for easier tuning adjustments. I do have a question though. Was the stereo aftermarket on your project ? What exactly do I need to get the signal into the amp ? I’m guessing oem stereo doesn’t come with rcas lol. Any advice would help man. Great video all in all ! Very informative 💯👌🏼
do you have a video like this for installing door speakers with an amp to factory head unit? I have a 2018 custom Silverado crew cab without bose with 7" lcd touch. id like too keep the factory stereo look but have the aftermarket stereo sound. thank you for your help and awesome detailed video for the subs
I have the same truck and was wondering the same thing
Where can I get a sub box like that for mine? For a decent price. I got dual 12s. Tired of having that big box in the way. I just haven't found a box for an affordable price
Quick question, was that wire OFC? Or it doesn’t really matter? Idk if to get CCA or OFC speaker wire -_- it’s for 130watt door speakers.
All of it was CCA. I’m not an expert but from my understanding the OFC really is for higher wattage applications that are drawing more amperage. The OFC stays cooler. It’s quite a bit more expensive though. For 130 watts CCA wiring is perfectly fine.
OFC is the better way to go when doing car audio. It dissipates heat faster so you don't have a drop in voltage and more importantly you don't run the risk in having a fire break out in your vehicle. Having a smaller gauge of CCA wiring increases those chances.
@@bigtheo79 you obviously didn't hear what the dude just said ofc is the obvious better choice but if you're running low wattage there's no need
@@plattnumcustomcaraudio3086 you're right OBVIOUSLY I didn't HEAR what he said since I READ what he typed!! 🤦🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️ If you read and comprehend my comment you'll understand that what I'm saying is if you're going to use CCA just use a thicker gauge of it so that you don't run the risk of having a vehicle fire and not have a huge drop in voltage due to heat....I mean knowing and understanding basic AC/DC theory helps, but I digress. Have a good day sir! 😁👍🏿👌🏿
@@bigtheo79 sorry your right
Did that bypass the factory bose amp or did he not have the bose system?
Ghost Face this was for the non-Bose system.
is the amp going to have enough air flow behind the seat so it dont over heat?
Modern amps like this especially your class D produce very little heat of any. I’ve had the same setup in my own 2014 Silverado for 5 years now. No issues.
How much would a job like this cost 2014 silverado
I had a problem where I do not have power turning on the amp any suggestions on what’s going on
Only thing to do is go back over your wiring. 1) do you have a good ground. 2) is the remote turn on in a good fuse location or wired in somewhere correctly. If these two are good the amp should turn on
I did an install just like this and the next day my batter was drained, I rechecked everything. Why could that be?
See if anything has constant power
Where did u get the box
Does anyone have any advice on how to wire this through the stock radio ? Or a video to help ?
I have a 0 gage wire to run, how hard was it to to cut that hole?
0 gauge would be a pain in the but to run through that grommet. I’d drill a hole and add your own grommet in the firewall.
How much did everything cost
What is the speaker wire gauge
Where did you get the box and everything to hook it up????