Jon, honestly you are a godsend. I own 2 integras, a 2001 DC4 and a 1995 DC4. I am thinking about starting my own channel when I start to rebuild my 1995, I am definitely gonna give you a shoutout man! You are an inspiration!
Man, that's awesome!! I'd love to see the builds/progress! Make sure to drop me a comment in the future if you do start the videos, I'll sub so I can see the progress!
Canada here, just did, crept rag on edge so hammer didn't destroy...to anyone about to do it...once arm off and ready...literally 3-5 mins with lube no heat-for me...don't be gentle on take out, love on replacing new...thanks to J-dawg as usual...one love
Definitely. I've seen people burn them out with a small torch then use a small hacksaw to get the metal sleeve removed from the arms but that looks like it'll take forever.
Do the metal sleeves in the lower control arm need to be pressed out along with the rubber or does the sleeve stay in the control arm and am I just supposed to press in the two Energy Suspension bushings halves into the metal sleeve?
Yes, you'll need it for the upper control arms for sure. You can't just burn them out because they all have a metal sleeve around the bushing that needs to be removed.
@@GarageBuiltHondas ty for the reply just wondering would the same apply to the rear trailing arm or I can burn that out and insert or I have to remove sleeve then incert it if you know?
So now its been a few years, hows the longevity of the ES bushings? Im at a crossroads to decide on ES, Hardrace, or PCI spherical. I don't track my 01 Teg but I do drive it spiritedly 6 miles to work every day.
Stay away from spherical, those are only needed for track cars. They wear out quick on daily drivers. If you live some place where it doesn't snow during the winter the ES will be great. The road salts can eat and deteriorate the urethane quick.
I'm in EP as well. Can you recommend a trustworthy automotive repair shop where I can get some stock suspension/general repair work done? Also, a body shop. I've checked some places, but they just give me the run-around. Thank you.
8:10 I cant remember where I learned about linking wrenches together for leverage (maybe eric the car guy?) but I felt so dumb for never thinking about it
Ok on the upper control arm bushings I installed mine but I tightened mine bolts down but I can still can move my a arm by hand shouldn’t it be tight being the original rubber ones are like melted to the steel bushing
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes. You know how the original ones the rubber are like made to the steel like melted together well the ones you press the steel thru the rubber. the upper control arm still moves no matter how much I tighten down
@@GarageBuiltHondas I might have to take the metal pin and heat it and then slide it in the bushing so that the bushing melts around the pin like the originals are
I don't remember, it's been a long while. Different brands of sockets will be different diameter sizes though unfortunately. I've learned this first hand.
I want to do this to my 89 CRX, but I've ran across a few articles that say that poly is great on bushings that don't rotate (radius rods, sway bars), but terrible on trailing arms and the other ones that have to flex and move with the car. She is primarily going to be a daily driver, but I do tend to push my cars quite often on some of the twisty roads around here (temptation is too great). Would you be comfortable putting these in Control/Trailing arms on a daily that is subject to spirited (but not crazy) driving? Is it true that you have to lube them up regularly? Thanks man!
I used the ES master kit on a 90 Integra back in 2008-2010 and had no problems daily driving the car with the full urethane kit. And I drove that car everywhere. I am still using the full ES kit on my 91 Civic Sedan and haven't had any problems yet. I don't drive that car super frequently though. I recently put Hardrace front and rear LCA bushings on my 91 Civic Wagon and it definitely feels softer than the ES kit, but for a car you like to push, I would suggest the ES urethane, that would be my choice. But of course it is up to you ultimately!
Garage Built Hondas thanks for the response. It is nice to hear from someone who has actual experience with the kit, a lot of armchair experts in the forums who talk theory or hearsay, but have not actually used the product. I think I'll go ahead and give them a try.
I haven't done it on my honda, but i did the front control arm bushings on my SC400 (huge pain). It did improve handling and responsiveness dramatically. But paired with the 18s/low pro tires its pretty jarring on our horrible cali roads at times. Gotta try and dodge potholes lol. If I do them on my civic, i'll be running 15s with a taller sidewall so i imagine it wouldnt be too bad. So overall, if you want tighter handling, totally worth it...but it does come at the cost of ride comfort.
hey man! I recently got my EM1 back from the dyno. Makes 437hp, recently got an alignment and it drives straight and pulls straight with a bit of sway in 4th and cruising on highway. Does the lower control arm bushings have a big play into the swaying? Thanks!
Thank you! We put it back on. I honestly don't think that piece really matters though. I almost feel like it just helps align the 2 studs when pushing them back to the top of the shock tower. If you left yours off I wouldn't sweat it.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yes i'm using a press. Ive been trying all night. Every time I press it in, instead of sliding through, the bushing bulges and it gets to about a quarter of the original length and I stop because I don't want to rip the bushing.
You do have it lubed up, correct? And the bushing need room on the other side to press out. The UCA bushings squeeze through and pop out on the other side.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yes i'm using the supplied lubricant. I had a 33mm socket under it and a smaller socket on top. I'm also not sure if you are supposed to press the bushing with the sleeve in it or not. Also, how much should I expect the bushing to smash before it presses in?
+Tony Morales For a daily driver I'd go Energy. If you intend to ever take the car on a track, Hardrace. On a daily you'll never drive the car hard enough to have to worry about "snap oversteer". Energy's bushings are less than half the cost of the Hardrace too.
Do you think this job can be done as easily with the bushing press that rentable from the local parts store? I want to do this job but I do not have access to a press.
+Jon Widmer thanks for the reply. it look so easy bc you had a shop press. I was also reading online and a few people said they spent like 6-6-8 hours on half the bushings. I was just pondering this job and didn't want to get in over my head. thumbs up for a great vid!
I just did the upper A arm bushings on my honda accord, it really is the same thing. I did it without a press, it take a little bit longer but it works. What i did : first, i pressed the center sleeve out of the bushing using sockets and a standard vice. Some of them were hard to push out because of the flange. no worries, i cut the flanges with a sawzall. Now with a little more access i cut the inside rubber with the sawzall with a woodblade. Swapped for a bi metal blade and cut 2 grooves inside the metal casing of the bushing that gets pressed in the fork. just be careful not to go too far in ! Once you cut the grooves, it should release any tension and you can just pop the shell out with a screwdriver and hammer ! It takes about 15-20 minutes for each fork.
I stumbled across this Video because I'm having a f*cked up time with the UCA's... The bushings keep swelling when trying to press them in. The old sleeves aren't stuck in there, I lubed the hell out of the bushings, and ES told me to try Freezing the bushings first to shrink them... Still no go. FML.
Not all socket sets are created equal in sizing and diameter. If you don't already own a socket set, this probably isn't the job you should be attempting.
@@GarageBuiltHondas i agree with the notion that all sockets arent created equal. i do own a socket set, just not a large socket set. but what can help is to list which socket brand/store you made the purchase. therefore we as views can identify which to get. your video is informative but it just falls short on that important detail.
@@GarageBuiltHondas i woudnt pay attention to them. im just hear to find a way to change out my shot bushings. if you said i needed a meteorite to change to a part i would find a way to get that.
I personally like them. I've used them in a handful of cars over the last 8 years and haven't had any issues with them deteriorating. I've had my 91 Si since August 2012 and the bushings are still in great shape. I think climate and geographic location help too. Mine don't see snow, salt, or very cold temperatures.
Jon, honestly you are a godsend. I own 2 integras, a 2001 DC4 and a 1995 DC4. I am thinking about starting my own channel when I start to rebuild my 1995, I am definitely gonna give you a shoutout man!
You are an inspiration!
Man, that's awesome!! I'd love to see the builds/progress! Make sure to drop me a comment in the future if you do start the videos, I'll sub so I can see the progress!
Canada here, just did, crept rag on edge so hammer didn't destroy...to anyone about to do it...once arm off and ready...literally 3-5 mins with lube no heat-for me...don't be gentle on take out, love on replacing new...thanks to J-dawg as usual...one love
👍
I take it a press is the most effective way of tackling this job?
Definitely. I've seen people burn them out with a small torch then use a small hacksaw to get the metal sleeve removed from the arms but that looks like it'll take forever.
Harbor Freight is you friend. Use their 15% off one item coupon
@@GarageBuiltHondas what socket size did you guys use..
Do the metal sleeves in the lower control arm need to be pressed out along with the rubber or does the sleeve stay in the control arm and am I just supposed to press in the two Energy Suspension bushings halves into the metal sleeve?
The sleeve needs to be removed also.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Ok. Thanks for the info and the videos! Your videos are among the best for the DIY guy.
Really appreciate that, thank you!
what are the torque specs for the 17mm nut/or bolts when you took the lower control arm apart ?
Glad to see this is El Paso
+Garrett Billington 👍👌
Any chance you'll do a video for energy suspension master kit for ef?
I'll be doing an install for a guy in July. We're setting it up for the 2nd week so keep an eye out!
+Jon Widmer Awesome I'm about purchase the kit your videos always help out
+Chris Smith Glad to have helped!! 👍
On the Ef can u burn the upper control arm bushing instead of using a press?
You still need to get the metal sleeve out somehow, but you can burn the rubber bushing.
What size socket did you use to extract the front lca bushing ?
S**t man, I don't remember. we just kept fitting sizes till one looked like a good fit. probably between a 21mm and 24mm if I remember correctly.
did you need to use the press to insert any of the bushings could i just burn out all the rubb and just squeeze them in with grease and no press?
Yes, you'll need it for the upper control arms for sure. You can't just burn them out because they all have a metal sleeve around the bushing that needs to be removed.
@@GarageBuiltHondas ty for the reply just wondering would the same apply to the rear trailing arm or I can burn that out and insert or I have to remove sleeve then incert it if you know?
All arms are the same on these older Hondas. They all have a sleeve that the original bushing is part of.
So now its been a few years, hows the longevity of the ES bushings? Im at a crossroads to decide on ES, Hardrace, or PCI spherical. I don't track my 01 Teg but I do drive it spiritedly 6 miles to work every day.
Stay away from spherical, those are only needed for track cars. They wear out quick on daily drivers. If you live some place where it doesn't snow during the winter the ES will be great. The road salts can eat and deteriorate the urethane quick.
Howd you get the shock mount out?
You skipped that over.
Good info tho tx
At 9:27 we are removing the shock mount bushing.
@@GarageBuiltHondas youre right my bad, i missed it for some reason. Tx for the reply
I'm trying to install the upper control arm bushing, but it slips out to one side
Are you using a press?
@@GarageBuiltHondas I was using the ball joint press kit, I realized I just had to keep going and it would made its way in.
I'm in EP as well. Can you recommend a trustworthy automotive repair shop where I can get some stock suspension/general repair work done? Also, a body shop. I've checked some places, but they just give me the run-around.
Thank you.
If you're on instagram, send me a message. Same name as my channel.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I'm sorry, I'm not on Instagram.
👍
I was about to order the red set but you recommend the black set?
Yes, graphite infused. Less squeaking.
So what socket size did you use for the LCA? to push the bushing out. the shell is stuck on mine need help!
I can't remember. Maybe an 18 or 19. It depends on the brand of socket too. I just find ones that are similar diameter to the bushing.
Will my 95 civic ex be exactly the same??
Yes, it's identical
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks!
8:10 I cant remember where I learned about linking wrenches together for leverage (maybe eric the car guy?) but I felt so dumb for never thinking about it
Right!? Such an easy trick to help out!
Ok on the upper control arm bushings I installed mine but I tightened mine bolts down but I can still can move my a arm by hand shouldn’t it be tight being the original rubber ones are like melted to the steel bushing
Rubber replacement?
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes. You know how the original ones the rubber are like made to the steel like melted together well the ones you press the steel thru the rubber. the upper control arm still moves no matter how much I tighten down
Interesting. Probably need to bend the control arm a little so it's more tight and able to tighten down all the way.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I might have to take the metal pin and heat it and then slide it in the bushing so that the bushing melts around the pin like the originals are
do you know the part number for the sway bar end link? I purchased some end links (16.8104R) but don't seem to match the poem integral link.
+Carlos Miranda That's the part #. It should fit all Integra from 90-01.
Garage Built Hondas did you guys run just the bushings and washers or everything the kit came with for the endlinks
+Carlos Miranda we used everything for the endlinks that came in the kit. The original endlinks were tossed.
I know this is very old video but where did you get the lower balljoint tool?
amzn.to/3m9WRyY
amzn.to/3m9WRyY
How well did they hold up ? Looking to buy those same exact performance bushings
No issues
What size socket did you use on the LCA, in order to take off the metal sleeves alone with the bushing?
I don't remember, it's been a long while. Different brands of sockets will be different diameter sizes though unfortunately. I've learned this first hand.
Garage Built Hondas Just finished this job. Absolute nightmare without a press. Used a reciprocating saw to cut the metal sleeves off of the LCA.
That sounds terrible!!
I want to do this to my 89 CRX, but I've ran across a few articles that say that poly is great on bushings that don't rotate (radius rods, sway bars), but terrible on trailing arms and the other ones that have to flex and move with the car. She is primarily going to be a daily driver, but I do tend to push my cars quite often on some of the twisty roads around here (temptation is too great).
Would you be comfortable putting these in Control/Trailing arms on a daily that is subject to spirited (but not crazy) driving? Is it true that you have to lube them up regularly?
Thanks man!
I used the ES master kit on a 90 Integra back in 2008-2010 and had no problems daily driving the car with the full urethane kit. And I drove that car everywhere. I am still using the full ES kit on my 91 Civic Sedan and haven't had any problems yet. I don't drive that car super frequently though. I recently put Hardrace front and rear LCA bushings on my 91 Civic Wagon and it definitely feels softer than the ES kit, but for a car you like to push, I would suggest the ES urethane, that would be my choice. But of course it is up to you ultimately!
Garage Built Hondas thanks for the response. It is nice to hear from someone who has actual experience with the kit, a lot of armchair experts in the forums who talk theory or hearsay, but have not actually used the product. I think I'll go ahead and give them a try.
Idk if you ever went ahead with this..but yeah poly isnt bad, just be preparted for a lot more vibration/road feel.
Michael, do you prefer that feeling?
I haven't done it on my honda, but i did the front control arm bushings on my SC400 (huge pain). It did improve handling and responsiveness dramatically. But paired with the 18s/low pro tires its pretty jarring on our horrible cali roads at times. Gotta try and dodge potholes lol. If I do them on my civic, i'll be running 15s with a taller sidewall so i imagine it wouldnt be too bad. So overall, if you want tighter handling, totally worth it...but it does come at the cost of ride comfort.
hey man! I recently got my EM1 back from the dyno. Makes 437hp, recently got an alignment and it drives straight and pulls straight with a bit of sway in 4th and cruising on highway. Does the lower control arm bushings have a big play into the swaying? Thanks!
Absolutely they can help. 20 year old bushings are doing anything for you.
hey i did the upper control arm bushings but when i put them back into the bracket the bracket was still a little loose will this affect anything?
How loose?
@@GarageBuiltHondas got it figured out thanks man! the torque specs for the uca bushings are 22 ft lbs right?
I can't recall. Did you find the info online, that sounds about right
did you install it with the OE ring on or without?
Which bushing?
@@GarageBuiltHondas LCA
Nope, they need to be removed as per the instructions.
do i need to preload poly bushings?
Not any of the Energy Suspension bushings. Other brands that may be poly and have a sleeve attached to the bushin like oem you will need to preload.
Hey John. I love your videos! :)
I have a question on the upper control arms, did you guys leave off that metal piece that connects the to bushings ?
Thank you! We put it back on. I honestly don't think that piece really matters though. I almost feel like it just helps align the 2 studs when pushing them back to the top of the shock tower. If you left yours off I wouldn't sweat it.
I need tips on getting out the front inner lower control arm bolt it keeps spinning
Chris Crayton once the head of the bolt comes out a little, use something to pry it away as you're still loosening the bolt.
Garage Built Hondas tried no room for knife or screw driver
+Chris Crayton is it stripped on the opposite side of the head of the bolt?
Im having a really hard time pressing in the upper control arm bushings. Instead of sliding through, it just bulges out.. Any tips?
Those should go for in easily. Are you using a press?
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yes i'm using a press. Ive been trying all night. Every time I press it in, instead of sliding through, the bushing bulges and it gets to about a quarter of the original length and I stop because I don't want to rip the bushing.
You do have it lubed up, correct? And the bushing need room on the other side to press out. The UCA bushings squeeze through and pop out on the other side.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yes i'm using the supplied lubricant. I had a 33mm socket under it and a smaller socket on top. I'm also not sure if you are supposed to press the bushing with the sleeve in it or not. Also, how much should I expect the bushing to smash before it presses in?
I just destroyed one trying to press it in. Can I get a shop to do this for me?
Do they squeak?
Not if they are lubricant well.
how much would u charge to replace trailing arm bushings?
What kind are you wanting to use?
+Jon Widmer which would u recommend energy suspension or hard race??
+Tony Morales For a daily driver I'd go Energy. If you intend to ever take the car on a track, Hardrace. On a daily you'll never drive the car hard enough to have to worry about "snap oversteer". Energy's bushings are less than half the cost of the Hardrace too.
+Jon Widmer alright man thanks. I was thinking of doing them myself because mine are pretty shot but they look pretty hard to replace.
+Tony Morales It can be a PITA. $50 and I'll come to your house and replace them.
Do you think this job can be done as easily with the bushing press that rentable from the local parts store? I want to do this job but I do not have access to a press.
Yes. I have never used one but have read many people that have on different forums.
+Jon Widmer thanks for the reply. it look so easy bc you had a shop press. I was also reading online and a few people said they spent like 6-6-8 hours on half the bushings. I was just pondering this job and didn't want to get in over my head. thumbs up for a great vid!
+Dc2 We spent about 7 hours total, including the trailing arm bushings. Good luck, if you need any tips, let me know!!
I just did the upper A arm bushings on my honda accord, it really is the same thing. I did it without a press, it take a little bit longer but it works.
What i did : first, i pressed the center sleeve out of the bushing using sockets and a standard vice. Some of them were hard to push out because of the flange. no worries, i cut the flanges with a sawzall.
Now with a little more access i cut the inside rubber with the sawzall with a woodblade.
Swapped for a bi metal blade and cut 2 grooves inside the metal casing of the bushing that gets pressed in the fork. just be careful not to go too far in !
Once you cut the grooves, it should release any tension and you can just pop the shell out with a screwdriver and hammer !
It takes about 15-20 minutes for each fork.
Can i use these for acura tl??
marco martinez probably not this exact set but I do believe they make them for your car. Possibly look up the urethane bushings made by Prothane also.
yes lol. im thinking of perhaps using sand paper to make em thiner.
The track magician Try to spread the fork out on the bottom, then when you tighten it, it will be fine.
Dude my bolt on the lower control arm keeps spinning inside the subframe... Wtf do i do now
Cut off the welded nut, and whatever else you may need to cut or drill out to get it removed.
those busing are the same as the EF 88-91
amzn.to/3o0rBQU This is the full kit for an 88-91 Civic/crx
hey man are u from ep
Yes
thank you!
You're welcome
I stumbled across this Video because I'm having a f*cked up time with the UCA's... The bushings keep swelling when trying to press them in. The old sleeves aren't stuck in there, I lubed the hell out of the bushings, and ES told me to try Freezing the bushings first to shrink them... Still no go. FML.
Did you get it?
damn skipped right over the lower control arm bushing taking them out i’m fighting mine even with a press. might need to take out the torch.
I see that crx
👍😎
the fork is not wanting to fit. like if the bushings are too damn thick
The track magician Are you trying to install some right now also?
Ok
waaaay harder on a honda civic, kinda regret following this guide, as I thought this process would be a lot easier, but now it's just a nightmare
Is that Civic between 92-00?
Why is this? I was wanting to do my 2000 ek coupe
It's the same. That guy was just having issues
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks for the reply I figured as much
👍
hammering on a ratchet and not using a proper long box end SMH
Life goes on
wanna know what will really help? LISTING THE SOCKET SIZES YOU USED! buying a complete socket set isnt the answer with how to videos.
Not all socket sets are created equal in sizing and diameter. If you don't already own a socket set, this probably isn't the job you should be attempting.
@@GarageBuiltHondas
i agree with the notion that all sockets arent created equal. i do own a socket set, just not a large socket set. but what can help is to list which socket brand/store you made the purchase. therefore we as views can identify which to get. your video is informative but it just falls short on that important detail.
Brand is a big factor to a lot of people though. There's "snap-on snobs" who'll never set foot in a Harbor Freight.
@@GarageBuiltHondas
i woudnt pay attention to them. im just hear to find a way to change out my shot bushings. if you said i needed a meteorite to change to a part i would find a way to get that.
Lol
These bushing are crap. The deflection is horrible and will only last a year or two.
I personally like them. I've used them in a handful of cars over the last 8 years and haven't had any issues with them deteriorating. I've had my 91 Si since August 2012 and the bushings are still in great shape. I think climate and geographic location help too. Mine don't see snow, salt, or very cold temperatures.