Hi everyone! Thank you for watching! I did want to note, this is an updated video as a key piece of tiling the final pattern was accidentally edited out of the original. If you've already watched it, the edit starts at about 7:50 on the timeline, where I tile the final motif all the way up. If you haven't watched it yet, thank you for watching! :) If you have any questions, or a suggestion for a tutorial you would like to see here, let me know in the comments below! Happy Creating!
Hi! Thank you for this wonderful tutorial, I learned quickly and I'm now enjoying making my own seamless patterns. More powered seamless patterns to you! 😊
Thank you for this tutorial! This is really neat and I learned several new things! I am confused about scale with object on the stroke panel, and how you know when to use it and when not to….
I'm happy to hear you enjoyed it, Jill, thank you! If you want to be able to scale the object your stroke is on and have the stroke width scale up and down in size along with it, you'll want to turn on Scale with Object. If it's off, as you scale down the object, the stroke will keep it's original width, so you will end up with a really large stroke and a smaller object it's sitting on. You will also find Scale with Object in the FX Studio as the same applies to any effects you add. If you want the effects to scale up and down in size, as you scale the object they're sitting on, you'll want to turn it on. Let me know if you have any questions about that! Thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment!
Thank you for the reply Tracey! it seems like a function you really have to be mindful of, depending on what you are doing. Like how you kept it off while creating the bullseye to keep consistent stroke width, but then needed to turn it on for future scalability of the whole object. I’m thinking that could get tricky on complex designs and nested layers? I would think you would want this option on at the end of a project, but could potentially miss selecting a layer or element and have a weird end result?
@@jillwirsing7544 yes, definitely! For the most part, I find myself wanting to keep it on, but there are definitely occasions, like the bullseye, where I don't. You'll want to decide on a case by case basis.
Hi Tracey! Do you already have a tutorial on how to fill a vector shape with parallel lines easily? If not, could you kindly create one, please? My goal is to be able to fill my vector shapes (mostly silhouettes of sports players) with lines. This is for laser engraving purposes onto clear acrylic. What I was thinking was initially creating a design with just parallel lines and then import my vector silhouettes and use them like “cookie-cutters”. I’m very new to Affinity Designer and I don’t know how to do the steps I just described and if that’s even the best way to do it. Thank you for these tutorials! I just learned that holding with 3 fingers while creating an ellipse makes perfect circles!🥰
Hi there Ferdinand! Thank you for watching... glad you're finding them helpful! When you say fill them with vertical lines, do you mean the shape is only a series of parallel lines with empty gaps in between? (in other words it's not a solid filled shape with lines sitting inside of it) I don't have a tutorial on it, but I can create one. I just want to get a clear picture of what you're aiming to do. I create for my own laser but haven't needed to create what you're describing. Let me know and I would be happy to put something together!
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage Hi Tracey! That is correct. Parallel lines with empty gaps in between. I have vector shapes of silhouettes of sports players that I have engraved on clear acrylic. Although it looks nice when placed on an LED-lit base, I saw a design on etsy where the silhouette is filled with diagonal parallel lines and I think it works better as there are more areas to capture the light from the LED base. I have an idea how to draw a straight line and duplicate it to fill the entire artboard. What I don’t know how to do is to restrict the lines to just go inside my vector shape. By the way, I prefer the lines to be a single thin line rather than a very thin rectangle. So that when it engraves, the laser will only do one pass instead of two.
@@ferdinandsantos6680 ok great thanks for the explanation! It sounds like you're all set on how to create the linear pattern itself. Have you used clipping masks before? You can drag your lines inside the shape by grouping them and, in the layer panel, dragging the group over the layer you want to clip them in to. Serif has a lot of excellent information on their site (and RUclips channel) about clipping in Affinity. I am happy to create a tutorial, but I don't know exactly when I would be able to do it. If you need it in a shorter timeframe, I would take a look at what they have out there on clipping and layer masks.
I have a question- or two. How do you not overflow the edges of the artboard? So if the design is a bullseye, how do I delete the edges? And how do I save it as a thumbnail? Do I Save it in studio, but then how do I import it into the next artboard? Sorry, total beginner her.
Hi there! Please don't apologize for the questions, I'm happy you're asking them! You don't need to worry about overflow. When you export your tile to use on a print on demand site, it's automatically going to clip everything outside the artboard. There is nothing to delete, Designer will handle that for you. When you ask about saving as a thumbnail, do you mean how to export it to use on a print on demand site like Spoonflower or Redbubble? If so, if you're on the iPad version, go to the Documents menu at the top (three horizontal lines at the top of the screen) and choose Export. From there, you want to select your file type (png, jpeg, etc), name your file and make sure to choose the original artboard where you created the pattern from the drop down under where it says "Area." It's really important you select that artboard and not any others because that's the one that will tile correctly. From there, you can save it to your files, or hit Share at the bottom left and save it to your iPad. On the desktop, Export is under File and you would follow the same steps. On the last question, do you mean saving it to the Assets studio like I did in the video? If so, you don't have to do that, if you don't want to. I do that because I find myself using them in other projects but it's not necessary. If you do decide to create a category for your patterns in the Assets studio, when you want to pull them in to a new canvas, you just drag them in. That's going to pull in the entire artboard. Please don't hesitate to let me know if I've misunderstood any of your questions, or if you have any others!
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage thank you very much for the detailed response. Yes you have answered all my questions and helped me a lot. I appreciate your time and help. Loved the video.
Hello! There are a few different options. You could create your first shape (the bullseye in this case) and turn it in to a Symbol. Then use that symbol to create your duplicates. By doing so, whenever you change one of the symbols, it will change all of them. If you prefer not to work with Symbols, you could also use the "Select Same" functions in the contextual menu at the top. There are a variety of options to choose from, for example, you could select the fill of one of the bullseye shapes, in this case, then choose "Select Same Fill" and it should select all of the fills in that same color. From there, you can just use the Color Studio to adjust the colors. The third option is to work with Global colors rather than regular swatches. If you change the global color, it will change all of those using that same global color. I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you!!
Hi everyone! Thank you for watching! I did want to note, this is an updated video as a key piece of tiling the final pattern was accidentally edited out of the original. If you've already watched it, the edit starts at about 7:50 on the timeline, where I tile the final motif all the way up. If you haven't watched it yet, thank you for watching! :) If you have any questions, or a suggestion for a tutorial you would like to see here, let me know in the comments below! Happy Creating!
Another great class, Tracey. I really loved the trick of swiping up on the color dot, too, very cool!
Thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment, Casey! I'm happy you found that useful! :)
Hi! Thank you for this wonderful tutorial, I learned quickly and I'm now enjoying making my own seamless patterns. More powered seamless patterns to you! 😊
Thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment!
I love how efficiently you work. Thanks Tracey!
You're very welcome, Yukon! Thank you for watching, and commenting!
Love this one, as always. I love learning from you and can't wait for your future tutorials 💜.
I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you so much for watching, and appreciating it, and thank you for taking the time to comment! 💛
Thanks!
Thank you very much Jill! 💛
Thank you for this tutorial! This is really neat and I learned several new things! I am confused about scale with object on the stroke panel, and how you know when to use it and when not to….
I'm happy to hear you enjoyed it, Jill, thank you! If you want to be able to scale the object your stroke is on and have the stroke width scale up and down in size along with it, you'll want to turn on Scale with Object. If it's off, as you scale down the object, the stroke will keep it's original width, so you will end up with a really large stroke and a smaller object it's sitting on. You will also find Scale with Object in the FX Studio as the same applies to any effects you add. If you want the effects to scale up and down in size, as you scale the object they're sitting on, you'll want to turn it on. Let me know if you have any questions about that! Thank you for watching, and taking the time to comment!
Thank you for the reply Tracey! it seems like a function you really have to be mindful of, depending on what you are doing. Like how you kept it off while creating the bullseye to keep consistent stroke width, but then needed to turn it on for future scalability of the whole object. I’m thinking that could get tricky on complex designs and nested layers? I would think you would want this option on at the end of a project, but could potentially miss selecting a layer or element and have a weird end result?
@@jillwirsing7544 yes, definitely! For the most part, I find myself wanting to keep it on, but there are definitely occasions, like the bullseye, where I don't. You'll want to decide on a case by case basis.
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage Something to remember for sure!
Hi Tracey! Do you already have a tutorial on how to fill a vector shape with parallel lines easily? If not, could you kindly create one, please? My goal is to be able to fill my vector shapes (mostly silhouettes of sports players) with lines. This is for laser engraving purposes onto clear acrylic. What I was thinking was initially creating a design with just parallel lines and then import my vector silhouettes and use them like “cookie-cutters”. I’m very new to Affinity Designer and I don’t know how to do the steps I just described and if that’s even the best way to do it. Thank you for these tutorials! I just learned that holding with 3 fingers while creating an ellipse makes perfect circles!🥰
Hi there Ferdinand! Thank you for watching... glad you're finding them helpful! When you say fill them with vertical lines, do you mean the shape is only a series of parallel lines with empty gaps in between? (in other words it's not a solid filled shape with lines sitting inside of it) I don't have a tutorial on it, but I can create one. I just want to get a clear picture of what you're aiming to do. I create for my own laser but haven't needed to create what you're describing. Let me know and I would be happy to put something together!
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage Hi Tracey! That is correct. Parallel lines with empty gaps in between. I have vector shapes of silhouettes of sports players that I have engraved on clear acrylic. Although it looks nice when placed on an LED-lit base, I saw a design on etsy where the silhouette is filled with diagonal parallel lines and I think it works better as there are more areas to capture the light from the LED base. I have an idea how to draw a straight line and duplicate it to fill the entire artboard. What I don’t know how to do is to restrict the lines to just go inside my vector shape. By the way, I prefer the lines to be a single thin line rather than a very thin rectangle. So that when it engraves, the laser will only do one pass instead of two.
@@ferdinandsantos6680 ok great thanks for the explanation! It sounds like you're all set on how to create the linear pattern itself. Have you used clipping masks before? You can drag your lines inside the shape by grouping them and, in the layer panel, dragging the group over the layer you want to clip them in to. Serif has a lot of excellent information on their site (and RUclips channel) about clipping in Affinity. I am happy to create a tutorial, but I don't know exactly when I would be able to do it. If you need it in a shorter timeframe, I would take a look at what they have out there on clipping and layer masks.
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage I have tried clipping mask in other apps but not yet in Affinity Designer. Thank you! I will give it a try.👍🏼
I have a question- or two.
How do you not overflow the edges of the artboard? So if the design is a bullseye, how do I delete the edges?
And how do I save it as a thumbnail? Do I Save it in studio, but then how do I import it into the next artboard?
Sorry, total beginner her.
Hi there! Please don't apologize for the questions, I'm happy you're asking them! You don't need to worry about overflow. When you export your tile to use on a print on demand site, it's automatically going to clip everything outside the artboard. There is nothing to delete, Designer will handle that for you.
When you ask about saving as a thumbnail, do you mean how to export it to use on a print on demand site like Spoonflower or Redbubble? If so, if you're on the iPad version, go to the Documents menu at the top (three horizontal lines at the top of the screen) and choose Export. From there, you want to select your file type (png, jpeg, etc), name your file and make sure to choose the original artboard where you created the pattern from the drop down under where it says "Area." It's really important you select that artboard and not any others because that's the one that will tile correctly. From there, you can save it to your files, or hit Share at the bottom left and save it to your iPad. On the desktop, Export is under File and you would follow the same steps.
On the last question, do you mean saving it to the Assets studio like I did in the video? If so, you don't have to do that, if you don't want to. I do that because I find myself using them in other projects but it's not necessary. If you do decide to create a category for your patterns in the Assets studio, when you want to pull them in to a new canvas, you just drag them in. That's going to pull in the entire artboard.
Please don't hesitate to let me know if I've misunderstood any of your questions, or if you have any others!
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage thank you very much for the detailed response. Yes you have answered all my questions and helped me a lot. I appreciate your time and help. Loved the video.
@@nurubeauty7357 thank you!!
Hello has anyone figured out an efficient way to manipulate the colors without having to do the process from scratch?
Hello! There are a few different options. You could create your first shape (the bullseye in this case) and turn it in to a Symbol. Then use that symbol to create your duplicates. By doing so, whenever you change one of the symbols, it will change all of them. If you prefer not to work with Symbols, you could also use the "Select Same" functions in the contextual menu at the top. There are a variety of options to choose from, for example, you could select the fill of one of the bullseye shapes, in this case, then choose "Select Same Fill" and it should select all of the fills in that same color. From there, you can just use the Color Studio to adjust the colors. The third option is to work with Global colors rather than regular swatches. If you change the global color, it will change all of those using that same global color. I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you!!
@@Tracey-CreatorCollage wow thank you so much. Ill give them all a try and see which one works best for me.
@@AndreS-zf4uv You're very welcome!