Love you so much for this, My si was hard to shift after a new clutch install and followed this to realize a Honda dealership don't even know how to adjust a clutch on their own cars. Something so easy.
Hey thanks brother! Same thing happened to me, I got my clutch replaced at Honda and then it wasn't shifting smooth. Glad it helped you out, have fun bro!
I really appreciate your tutorial, this is by far one of the BEST, most informative and clear steady camera video for an 8th gen clutch adjustment. Thank you!
how many threads did you go out? mine was at like 4.5 stock clutch i lowered it to 2.5 threads showing and it shifts way better and catches earlier but still has some grinds
Thank you! I just replaced my clutch and I was freaking out thinking I installed the fork or throw out bearing wrong. Followed your instructions and it works perfect! Your camera work in the video is fantastic too.
Amazing tutorial! Clear, concise, calm fluent commentary, very helpful visuals, superb info re thread adjustment for different clutch / cmc. Excellent, really helpful; thank you!
I have a stock CMC and Slave with stage 1 exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I Have been driving for a few thousands miles now and lately it has been getting a little hard going into gears. Thought I’d try this since I was told you need to adjust clutch pedal after a new clutch replacement. Did exactly what you said in the video and man, it feels like I got a new clutch. It feels even better when I got the car back with 0 miles on the new clutch. I owe you big time!
Thank you SO MUCH. I was having serious high-RPM shift lockout issues in my 8th gen FA5, and this solved everything. Car shifts like new and the catch point is way higher, more like an EP3.
came here to comment the same thing. I got my FA5 6 months ago and finally adjusted the clutch pedal. 7k+ RPM I was locked out of 2nd and 3rd. Now I have no problems. Super high engagement point! Huge gains from a 20 minute adjustment.
Just did this on my daughters civic, your instructions were so clear, it went perfectly. Hardest part was squeezing my oversized melon under the dash so I could see everything…excellent video, thanks!
Years later still helping people I really appreciate it. My only issue is I'm trying to figure out how to get my engagement lower. I love my pedal feel now but it's grabbing at the top. I tried adding more threads on the stopper and then readjusting the clutch rod but it seems to still be grabbing high. trying to understand the whole dynamics of this but I can't figure out what would give me a lower engagement point.
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. Basically the freeplay will affect where the clutch grabs a little bit. But if you want it to grab 'a lot' sooner you have to make the pedal stroke shorter. So if you go to a little more threads showing and then redo the freeplay then the pedal will grab sooner because less fluid is pushed into the clutch line, so on the pedal release it wont grab quite as high up. However it might also make the clutch release a little less smooth. If its a comfort thing then just go little by little. Going to a K-tuned EM1 CMC will give you a shorter overall pedal travel but in my opinion makes it more difficult to drive in traffic because it engages right after you let the pedal up from the floor, and its more sensitive in general. But that's preference because I know some people are use to that
I refer so many people to your video. I know our cars CMC gets bad attention but I'm convinced a lot of people just have their clutch adjusted incorrectly and it accounts for a lot of their chunky gear changes.
Excellent video. Super informational, no gimmicks, no extra bs, just straight knowledge. Respect I'm about to try this soon on my 06 si b/c it engages super low. I'd like it halfway or alil lower than halfway. 1 thread for stock cmc right. And the rod turning is micro adjustments to go "a little" less than halfway. Hope i'm understanding it lol
🙏🙏🙏 thanks bro! It should make your pedal higher for sure, and should make shifting smoother. The height adjustment (threads) will change the engagement point dramatically. The rod (freeplay) changes it a little. You get it. But if you go to 1 thread it will be a little higher than halfway most likely. So maybe go to a little more threads showing if it really bothers you. Also make sure to always redo the freeplay after adjusting the threads. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks
thanks for the help brotha, after swapping out my cmc i tried adjusting the clutch and failed miserably, was hard to pop into gear and rear was locking me into gear. After using this information, im getting into gear clean with no problem. crazy how this little adjustment is really important.
You made a great video here. Im having what I believe is disengagement issues. Every gear is shifting like i have no clutch and its lurching a tiny bit every time i get it in first gear. Im giving this a shot right now.
Clutch stopper was set at about 7 threads showing and the cmc was set all the way counterclockwise. Did the adjustments and it now shifts great. Owned it for 12 years now and never adjusted it till now. I assume thats how it comes from the factory. Vid was a big help, thanks.
Just installed my cmc , I’m going to try this when I get home. People don’t forget he posted a proper bleeding method as well. Do both and you such be good to go! I cannot wait to go try this because my car is stuccccck 🤦♂️
@@JasonMcMullen Okay so I've been driving it for a bit, and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrate now. Everything I've adjusted is to spec, I used all the right pieces. I didnt have any issues with the clutch pedal vibrating before I replaced the cmc and the slave. Is this due to my new setup do you think? Or could it be something totally different?
@@JasonMcMullen When I take up the freeplay and actually shift into another gear. Low rpms there's hardly any, but vibration is extremely high when im in Vtec. Im thinking its just more feedback from the trans due to the braided line?
The Beldam do you feel a lot of pressure on the pedal too, near the bottom of the stroke? If so you might have to make the pedal height lower (more thread showing) and then redo the freeplay. Because the em1 style cmc doesn’t need as much space to release. But the freeplay also affects it, so first try a couple more mm of freeplay. Most likely just adding a few mm of freeplay won’t be enough and you will have to make the pedal shorter then redo the freeplay to about 10mm. By doing so the stroke will get shorter and hopefully get rid of the pressure. If you don’t feel pressure but just weird vibration let me know. It could be that the slave cylinder rod needs urea grease or that something is wrong with the cmc/slave itself (a leak).
Thanks for your help ! Really,the best video i've found and it helped me a lot! I did this on my european Civic Tourer 2015,although they are different, the system is the same.There's not that much space down there,like you have.I couldn't reach 12mm nut on CMC,so i bent one of my 12-13mm wrenches to catch the nut properly.And no matter how much I turn the rod on CMC, I got no freeplay.But I left it as you described and it works perfect.Keep up the good work,bro!!!
This man was sent from heaven! I found so much contradicting information on different forums and this man knows what's up! So much better! You beautiful, beautiful human!
And he's still actively in the comments, what did we do to deserve this! I was getting so frustrated haha. Someone needs to go hit the 8th civic forum and post this video on EVERY "CMC adjustment" thread!
@@ImPaCTSnYpEr I went through a lot of frustration before too so totally know what you mean! And thanks again!! You're too nice, its very much appreciated. And thanks for the Sub! (subbed back)
great video . I had problems banging gears after having Honda put In a new clutch and pressure plate. It shifts way smoother and I can bang gears without waiting for the revs to drop.I found out they had over 5 threads showing on the clutch pedal SMH!!! Thanks I appreciate the Help a lot.
Man it was the exact same for me, after I got my car back from Honda (clutch/flywheel) it didn't shift very smooth, which led me to make this video. So glad you are banging through gears again bro! Have fun
Didn't even realize this could be an issue. I do have occasional grinding, the classic 3rd gear grind on these. Saw that the clutch pedal isn't set up properly, so gonna give this a shot. Think mine had 2-3 threads showing. In a FA1 which I believe uses a different CMC but everything is setup pretty much the same. Followup. I bought my FA1 used so idk if the previous owner adjusted it but having 1-1.5 thread showing and half turn from resistance point on CMC leaves you with veryyyy little freeplay . It's pretty nice since it feels really responsive and if you allow more freeplay it's pretty easy to have the push rod and cmc touching. I'm gonna roll with it. It feels a lot more natural to me now
Great video. Mine grinds in 3rd sometimes. I just looked at how many threads mine is showing on the back end and it’s prob 7-8 lol it’s all factory also. So I am going to adjust it to only about one thread showing. Thank you so much. This should help my clutch so much.
thank you, will try to use this method for my 2010 mazda 6 6-speed, i believe it is the same (except for the clutch stop recommendations on the clutch stop number of threads, which might be different slightly).
Thank you for this! I originally adjusted my push rod until it was completely tight, but after watching your video, I went back in and backed it off about half a turn. Thanks for the thorough explanation and great camera angles!
Thanks! This video helped. Only problem with mine is I can't freely move the rod into cmc. Nut is stuck on it. Had to vise grip the rod then wrench the nut tight.
Oooooo MYYYYY GOD!!! This was sooo helpful. I have a small question i replaced my OEM clutch with a Exedy stage 1 clutch + EFT fly wheel and im going to install a aftermarket CMC EM1 should i follow that same recommendation you mentioned in this video of leaving 5 threads on the under side? Please if anyone knows would be greatly appreciated thank you
Great vid! I'm having issues with my 08 si clutch. Shifts perfectly when cold but a lot harder to shift when it warms up after about 30 minutes driving. Going to give this a shot! Any suggestions if this doesn't work?
Slightly Stoopid thanks buddy, I would say check the clutch lines for any leaks first, then adjust the clutch after. If that doesn’t help, perhaps bleeding the hydraulic system for air will also help
9:20 your explanation is great but it was hard to see which way you were turning the push rod. Was clockwise movement turning the rod left (toward centre console) and anticlockwise turning rod toward the right (or toward the brake pedal)? It was hard to tell at the final demo with the unit on the table. Thx Also will this help my low bite point where I can't help but sometimes drag the clutch where there is a often a horrific squeal where it seems I'm riding the clutch
@@JasonMcMullen Ah thx Jason, just didn't want to mess up the direction of the push rod (being dyslexic and that). Using my thumb on the bottom of the rod and moving my thumb to the left ((a)clockwise?) and then right ((b)anticlockwise?) (if you get my meaning);if this is correct, which direction (a or b) extends the rod toward the foot pedal stop ( correct?) And then which direction (a or b) is the half turn? Finally another vid says pedal adjustment on stock clutch is up to 2 threads long and yours just half a thread. What is best? Really appreciate this. Hope to fall in love with my 8th gen euro accord again if I can just get this darn clutch right from being too low😫
@@bronniesboy Yeah clockwise till you feel a tiny bit of resistance, then half a turn counterclockwise (can go full turn also). Basically this just resets the freeplay after the height adjustment (the thread count showing) If you go to less threads showing, then the bite point will be higher. So if you go to 2 threads (stock) it will bite shortly after the pedal leaves the floor. But half thread will rise the bite point to about half way up
@JasonMcMullen I have the ktuned em2 style cmc with an action clutch stage 5. Am I still looking at doing 5 threads showing? Also, great video. Seems to be helping out a lot of people. Keep it up.
For a stage five you might need a little more throw, maybe try 4-5 and see how it is. Feel free to go to less (or more) depending on how it operates. Just make sure to redo the freeplay adjustment after the thread adjustment. Also if you already have it adjusted, take a picture of where it's at now so you can have a baseline to go back to if anything
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
@@JasonMcMullen I recently had a high rpm grind from 1st to 2nd gear which lead me to google the fix!! Thanks to you and your vid. I ended up making a small adjustment to the cylinder where and exposed one more line of thread. Driving today felt great. Small difference but my heel-toes are much smoother 🙂
Hey whats up everyone im having some issues with my cmc and slave, I replaced my clutch,pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing with competition clutch 1.5 stage, 8 pound flywheel and also I installed the CMC and slave combo from Ktuned, this was about 10 moths ago, I drive every day this car about 40 miles per day sometimes with LA traffic and some spirit driving on weekends, around a moth ago my problems started, I was at a red light and right when I was taking off( releasing clutch) I feel the clutch “bitting as usual” but before I completely released it I felt the pedal clutch go kinda “soft” and the bite wasn’t as hard and the release point was higher, I had the clutch adjustment rod showing 5 treads since the day I installed everything and the cmc rod adjusted by my mechanic, I’ve been doing a lot of research on how to adjust the rod, I’ve watch videos and I clearly understand I have to spin it clockwise until you feel some kind of resistance, here’s my first problem, the ktuned cmc rod doesn’t spin just with your fingers, you have to use some pliers in order to spin it, so how I’m i supposed to feel the resistance everybody is talking about ? Second problem: I went to my slave cylinder and I try to press it with my fingers and I just couldn’t is hard as a rock...tried again messing with the cmc rod, if I spin it clock wise my engagement feel higher and clutch pedal soft but if I spin it counterclockwise it will Actually feel shorter and more firm, I know my slave cylinder is supposed to be able to move with my fingers so I went under the dash again today and I spin the rod counterclockwise more so I could try to fix my slave issue but when I tried to start up my car It just wouldn’t start, so I put the rod back in the position I adjusted first and everything was “ok” Again, also I would like to address that when I’m in traffic in first gear or second and I completely release the clutch without touching the gas my car still moves, like if I was gassing it a little bit or releasing just a little the clutch, what you guys think is my problem ? CMC or slave? I checked and any of them are leaking... clutch ? Throw out bearing ? I would really appreciate any help, thanks
Hey Jason, great video dude. More in depth than anything I've seen with others. So I was thinking about doing this on my 2011 Si I just picked up. 88k and serviced at Honda so the clutch and everything feels good. Only issue I'm having is when I'm shifting at high rpm in VTEC. For example, when I'm in 3rd pulling, it will shift into 4th okay (still have rev hang but if I time it right it shifts smooth) but as I'm pulling 4th and I go to shift into 5th, it will either grind for sec and then engage or just lock it out completely. Same goes for 6th sometimes too. I have Acuity shifter and base bushings, centering spring, and a weighted shift knob on the way right now. Planning on seeing what that does to the slop when shifting at high rpms. So if those don't solve the issue, would you recommend this as my next move? Only had the car a little over a week so I'd like to take care of this asap. Really appreciate it man 👍
Keith Fendley hey thanks man I really appreciate it! You can try to give yourself a little more release travel (less threads showing on the clutch height adjustment screw, then redo the freeplay). When I got my car back from Honda (after my stage 1 action clutch was installed) I had to adjust it a little also. It felt good but was too notchy. Just go little by little and see if it helps. Also measure the current freeplay with a ruler and note how many threads are showing just in case want to go back to your current settings
Recently install Hybrid Racing kit for my 2007 Honda Civic Si and reuse the OEM rod and bracket to my EM1 CMC. I follow the instructions and the next day my clutch pedal starts to make clucking/ squeaking nosies. I try to grease CMC but it didn't work. I even double check my work but the same noise happens even after being adjusted multiple time. It keeps on respawning back in the morning. Noise would die down for now.
So, what I am taking away from this Is that the free play is the most important part, and that you can raise/lower the pedal engagement point with the stopper - as long as free play is adjusted to in spec all is well?
yeah but also the engagement point changes the amount that the clutch releases, so people who have issues with grinding and non-smooth shifting can change the engagement point in order to fix that issue
That would be a hassle for sure. When you did it previously was that with an aftermarket CMC or stock CMC? Yeah unfortunately even if the clutch properly disengages it wont fix a problem with worn transmission synchronizers or other transmission issues. For me my 3rd gear has always had a minor issue of not always going in smoothly (no grind though) but I bought the car second hand (from the original owner) and the damage was already done so I just have to deal with it. Thanks for the comment bro
xUNFLAMMABLEx Yeah like I mention at the end of the video, the threads can get slightly bent from locking it down and then it makes it difficult to readjust. You can push the pedal down just a tiny bit and it makes it easier to rotate the rod, but the problem is when you let the pedal back out you will have a different amount of free play, so you have to measure with a ruler then go back and readjust if it’s not in spec. I have a brand new CMC and it rotates easily, but my old one didn’t. I’m not telling you to buy a new one, just sharing my experience. Hope it works out for you brotha
Jason McMullen thanks bro I rewatched the video so many times and I’ve gotten the car to not grind surprisingly and I raced 3 different car lmao. Clutch seems to work good but the clutch engages right away
@@cristiansblackfg2656 Good to hear bro! Gotta have fun hitting VTEC. The freeplay can change the engagement point a little but if you have it not grinding now then maybe just see if you can get use to it before changing it again. I know I adjusted mine way too many times lol
Hey Jason, I have a 2002 RSX. Just got the transmission rebuild and got a 1.5 stage Competition Clutch installed. My mechanic told me he didn't feel like he needed to adjust the clutch pedal. The clutch grabs pretty low compared to before. Sometimes when I'm at a stop light, I can't shift into 1st and some gears are hard to shift into. At one point I couldn't shift into 1st at all, it was like I wasn't pressing in the clutch. I will look into adjusting the clutch pedal following your video instructions. Since the clutch is grabbing pretty low, that means I want to adjust the rod for more freeplay, yes? I appreciate your input!
The freeplay only affects it a little bit, most likely you are gonna want to go to less threads showing, which lengthens the pedal travel. Always redo the freeplay after adjusting the pedal travel because it throws it off when you do. From what you said, an adjustment will certainly help, the pedal will grab higher and the shifting should be smoother after
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the reply Jason! So I adjusted the screw, it was way off. It had like 10 threads over. Once I adjusted it to 1.5 threads, the shifting is much smoother. But now I have a new problem. When I'm in neutral in idle, I now hear a slight chatter noise. Once I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. Any ideas? This noise was not there when before adjusting the pedal. Thanks!
@@JasonMcMullen I have a 5 speed base with a Type-S clutch and flywheel. I will go 2-3 threads and see if I can achieve a sweet spot. And I'll double check the free play distance
My mechanic did this for me because it was really hard to shift, I’ve noticed though my clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor and it’s coming out of adjustment, before I saw that the nut by the yellow clutch switch the clutch was pushing on the switch/stopper, BUT now it’s very far from the clutch pedal and I can’t engage my cruise control anymore because the switch isn’t being pushed and the car thinks the clutch is pushed in 24/7. Should I readjust and use blue loctite or something? Because it was fine for about a week and now it’s coming out of adjustment again. Not sure if the CMC is just letting the rod sink into itself, I’m not having any leaks, so I’m gonna try and do this today see if I can get it good again. Once he did it to me my car felt like a whole new car, I stalled a few times getting used to the clutch engagement points being different on the pedal haha. Now it’s back to about how it was before I can only assume it’s coming out of adjustment, I want to loctite ? But maybe I should just adjust it like this first and see if I can get it really tight first, and wait to see if it works its way back out of adjustment. It was so bad before I was nearly locked out of 1st and reverse. So hard to shift because I really wasn’t using my entire clutch pedal because of how bad it was.
Nova hmm yeah try to adjust it, tighten everything down, take a picture of the cruise control switch/stopper so you can keep track of the position of it. Measure the freeplay with a ruler so you can check it again later. In my experience there is no need for loctite, but maybe there is some oil or fluid on the threads? Can try wiping it with some brake parts cleaner
@@JasonMcMullen I tried adjusting the nut out so I can spin the rod and the nut is now stuck all the way back on the rod. Also the rod was incredibly hard to twist, I actually twisted the rod using the nut and I’m not able to get pliers in there to hold the rod while breaking the nut free it’s stuck on the threads, didn’t use loctite :( adjustment is ok now but idk for how long with the nut all the way back
@@JasonMcMullen I just had a few beers went out and hit it again and got it first try cracked the nut loose with pliers and tightened down thanks so much for the video Comrade!
When I did the em1 clutch master on my rsx I had to use the original pushrod from the old clutch master I could no get the master to bolt up it kept hitting the pedal even with it adjusted all the way back
With the K-tuned one you dont have to do that, but yes with other em1 units you may have to do that, there is a tutorial on the hybrid racing website for that
So my release bearing was already toasted, but I watched a video (prior to this) that was not as clear and adjusted the rod until it was super stiff, and rolled it over a few more times after that. I’m not 100% sure if I aided in the throwout bearing doing what it does now (squealing for it’s life whenever the clutch is not engaged, even when the car is moving in gear) but I’d better fix my adjustments. Long story short: The idea is for the rod to just be sort of snug and not fully secured, correct?
Hey buddy, yeah you want the rod to have a little bit of freeplay, so once you thread it in until you feel resistance, then thread it out (counterclockwise) minimum a half turn, maybe more. When you check the the pedal freeplay with a ruler, the pedal has to have 10mm or more of freeplay (dead pedal). If you spin the rod counterclockwise more then it will give you even more freeplay. If the pedal has less than 10mm of dead pedal then its possible that the release bearing will still be hitting the clutch even with the pedal out, and it will damage the bearing and the clutch. I hope the adjustment helps, I know how it is because when I bought my car it already had a noisy/damaged release bearing so I eventually replaced the clutch/flywheel/bearing and it cost me some money, but hopefully you will be ok. And yeah the other videos that don't cover setting the proper amount of freeplay are kinda dangerous honestly, which is another reason why I made this video. Hope it helps bro
Outstanding video! I just got the hard motion EM1 with slave. I have an Exedy stage one clutch. Hard Moton recommends swapping the piston rod with stock. So am I looking at 5ish threads based on the CMC/clutch or 2ish threads based on the push rod swap? Thank you in advance P.S. I love the upper strut bar
Thank you so much! Try 2 threads but if you feel pressure at the bottom of the pedal when shifting at high RPM then shorten the pedal and maybe go to 5. Because you swap the rod, I think it will be closer to stock but I'm not sure so it might take some trial. Let me know what you end up at and I'll put it in the description
Jason, just installed and went with exactly two threads. Based on pedal feel it engages at about 2 inches off the floor. Feels perfect with no pressure that I can tell.
I think I need to do this in my car. The pedal has too much free play and the clutch disengages as soon as I start releasing the pedal, not half way. I recently had the clutch changed and I think this wasn't done to my 8th Gen Civic SI. Now my car doesn't take well the shifts to the point I feel I'm going to break the shift knob. It feels like the clutch is not engaging enough
Just did this on my si and it's a night and day difference before I had 4 threads exposed and the clutch grabbed at the bottom switched it down to 1 thread and now it releases more towards the top and feels like every other manual trans I've driven also doing this made my 1-2 2-3 shifts way smoother
I have the hybrid cmc and used my stock rod 02 rsx type s. I’m having troubles finding the perfect spot. I had it adjusted to a decent spot but i tried to adjust it again and now I can’t get it back to that decent spot I had
I'm having issue with adjusting the CMC rod,I can't turn it either way, I also have 5 threads showing(k tuned CMC and slave) bleed the whole system 4 times to make sure there was no air and yeah there's a lot of play in the clutch pedal and the fork barely moves,I tried to do it by pressing the pedal a bit and turning it but it didn't work😕.
do you have a ruler to measure the freeplay? Most likely there is too much. If you thread the nut down then you might be able to turn it with that but the nut might get stuck too. You could also try to go to less threads showing and it might add enough throw to make the fork move. Its really tough to do when the threads on the rod are damaged but it is possible using measurements. Worst case, you can put a little lube in the area, then spray it with a little brake parts cleaner once it is in the right place
@@JasonMcMullen I got it working, guess what was the problem? The pedal was broken from left side and had to weld it 😂FML I spend 4 days and a new CMC and slave on it.
I just replaced my clutch to a stage 1 action clutch and have the hybrid racing cmc. The instructions for the cmc said to replace the rod with the stock rod. So do I have half to one thread showing? Or 5 threads showing? TIA!
I noticed in the description you now advise 2 threads for EM1 cmc. I see you credited someone for this info, but how did this come about when it's been the 5 threads for so long? I can't find any other information about this.
Hybrid Racing one is 2 threads because you swap the rod (so its close to stock adjustment), the k tuned em1 style and the aftermarket Em1 are still 5 threads
Thanks for sharing. In my Honda manual it also states to adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch along with the other two adjustments shown in this video, did you also adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch or it's not necessarily necessary unless the car gives you an issue with start-up? Thank you
Hey buddy, most people dont have to but if you have any problems starting the car then adjust it according to the manual, I believe it says to adjust it so that the car still starts even with your foot about 10mm off the floor
@@JasonMcMullen Thank you for the insight. I have another question, if I turn the pushrod going into the CMC all the way clockwise till resistance is felt then turn back counter clockwise one full turn and lock it down, with the clutch switch adjusted so that the bottom of the threads just touches the clutch pedal released plus an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn, I still have more free-play than I would like. From my understanding the above process is to adjust the clutch pedal height from the ground (6.5"), will re-adjusting the CMC rod possibly a half-turn clockwise without touching the clutch switch remove some free-play without affecting the pedal height since it has already been established? It's tricky to know how far clockwise you can go with the CMC pushrod because when you feel slight resistance with the clutch pedal released, if you turn slightly more it get's very loose almost as if the rod is being removed from the CMC. If I adjust the CMC rod with the clutch pedal slightly pushed in, then its even more tricky to know how far you can turn clockwise before it gets very loose again because the resistance is so slight. The clutch has been bleed and it's an OEM replacement Exedy clutch kit and stock CMC. Thank you.
@@vanquishstorm Hey buddy, the best way to deal with freeplay is with a mm ruler, that way you can make sure you have enough, it can be very tricky to know like you said, especially if the cmc is not turning smoothly. Most likely you can just remove a little freeplay but its best to measure after to make sure you have at least 9-10mm (to ensure the throw-out bearing is not being engaged with the pedal up). Using a brand new cmc it spins easy so its not really a problem. Using a new one I can count the amount of turns it takes to go all the way in and the amount it takes to go all the way out (you dont want it to be either all the way in or all the way out)
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the insight. Being that I'm adjusting the pushrod in the original old CMC in my car, it doesn't turn as smoothly which can make it tricky to gauge if you are too far out in adjustment. I'm going to measure all of my adjustments with a ruler to verify that I am within specification. Thanks again.
@@JasonMcMullenMy apology for all the questions, as far as engaging/disengaging the clutch, if you dont have enough freeplay than the clutch pedal when released may always remain slightly engaged (friction disc applied on flywheel/ release bearing possibly touching pressure plate)? Disengaging the clutch would therefore be the opposite (clutch pedal pressed to the floor/friction disc not applied to flywheel)? I recently installed a new clutch and the car drove fine for about a month and now I cant get it into gear with the car running. I can get in all my gears with the car turned off aswell the CMC is not leaking. With this issue, the pedal had very little pressure engaging closer towards the ground. I bled the clutch yesterday and regained pedal pressure but I'm assuming I will also need to dial in the freeplay since the friction disc is now most likely broken in. The issue that I am having with the pedal engagement low to the ground and the car not going into gear with the car running, is that an issue engaging or disengaging the clutch? Also, could this have caused any harm to the clutch/trans not being able to go in gear? When I drove the car everything was functioning properly. Thank you for your time.
You can try to adjust the pedal a little further out (a little less thread showing on the bottom of the adjustment screw). As long as clutch has enough room to release it should operate properly in 4th also. Some people with k-series transmissions have worn sychros from so many years of shifting with the clutch not releasing fully, but you probably just need to adjust a tad more. As long as the clutch releases the rest is up to the transmission. My 3rd gear is a little notchy but with my clutch adjusted it doesn't grind. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can bro
Is it suppose to be em2 or em1 clutch master? Im trying to understand what you are saying but I’m not following. I bought a em2 master for my rsx but it has over almost 2 inches of freeplay. Need advice.
Most people use an em1 but some people use an em2. My video is for em1 but the em2 is similar. Basically if you are having trouble shifting then you need to make the pedal longer, and you can do that by going to less threads showing on the adjustment screw. For freeplay, the rod will let you adjust the freeplay after adjusting the height. If you spin it clockwise and then lock it down (with the nut) then it will give you less freeplay. You want about 10mm of freeplay.
I have a ktuned cmc and slave kit on my 05 type s. I've bled the clutch fluid 3x for good measure and confirmed there is no bubbles anywhere. My question is, is it normal to have more than 10-15mm of freeplay after adjusting with 6 threads showing? Since its hard to turn the cmc rod with my fingers i had to use pliers, do I just adjust it till the cruise control switch is fully pressed and flushed? Btw I do have unknown stage 1 clutch and flywheel if that helps. Thankyou!
Thanks for the video it really helped but when I am adjusting free play on the cmc rod. I have to slightly push in the pedal or it won’t rotate the rod, if I have it anymore to the left then about 1.5 turns. But I am only at like 8 mm of few play at 1.5 turns back counterclockwise from all the way clock wise
Alex Christian can you rotate it more counter clockwise? If you can go another half turn or so counter clockwise it would be ideal, to try to get to 10mm. Usually it will rotate back out counterclockwise about 5 times before it hits the stopper (I know it’s hard to tell when you gotta push in the pedal). Let me know! Even having 8mm you probably won’t do any harm but it’s best to be safe and go by what Honda recommends
Jason McMullen I’ll try but I think the reason I have to push the pedal is because when the pedal is fully out the rod is contacting the cmc so I have found that point where it is just enough clockwise not to contact it but at that point it only has about 8mm of travel I think I will just have to see how that works
Jason McMullen well I took the car out to get groceries and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems I don’t smell or feel the clutch rubbing and I have just a hair of space in-between the rod and the cmc so It worked out I guess thank you for the tutorial dude. Every other one I’ve seen doesn’t even come close to how clear and detailed yours is
Old video so no clue if I will get an answer. Have a Hybrid Racing cmc which is a em1 style with a swapped stock rod. Currently have 5 threads showing and my clutch engagement/disengagement is very top of pedal and clutch after almost 6 months is starting to slip. But I think it that it might not be fully engaging. Wondering if adjusting it to 2 threads showing if it will change where the clutch is engaging/disengaging.
@Jason McMullen yea we did a transmission rebuild with hybrid racing slave/master cylinder, cables, shifters detent springs etc. Friend doing it has been a Honda Tech for 15 years and is very picky about his cars. So I am pretty sure if my stage 4 clutch was in need of replacing he would of told me. So going to try this before replacing clutch.
i know im late i just got my clutch replaced and my clutch pedal feel wayyyyyy more softer now since i been riding on my first clutch for 130k miles and now its finally changed, but my question is even if i use OEM parts for my clutch will i have to adjust my pedal, and if so how much?
This is by far the best camera work and explaination I’ve seen for cmc adjustment! I can actually see and understand what’s going on.
Very much appreciated, thank you!
Exactly what he said!
Facts
Love you so much for this, My si was hard to shift after a new clutch install and followed this to realize a Honda dealership don't even know how to adjust a clutch on their own cars. Something so easy.
Hey thanks brother! Same thing happened to me, I got my clutch replaced at Honda and then it wasn't shifting smooth. Glad it helped you out, have fun bro!
Go queef those tires now, I want to see a video on that 🤣
@@crankZOD I'll get a nice close up for you
This video was so clear and so helpful. No other video on youtube is close to as useful as this one. Thank you so much bro.
Glad to help!! thank you
I really appreciate your tutorial, this is by far one of the BEST, most informative and clear steady camera video for an 8th gen clutch adjustment. Thank you!
thanks buddy I'm glad to hear! 🙏
how many threads did you go out? mine was at like 4.5 stock clutch i lowered it to 2.5 threads showing and it shifts way better and catches earlier but still has some grinds
Thank you! I just replaced my clutch and I was freaking out thinking I installed the fork or throw out bearing wrong. Followed your instructions and it works perfect! Your camera work in the video is fantastic too.
great to hear bro!
Amazing tutorial! Clear, concise, calm fluent commentary, very helpful visuals, superb info re thread adjustment for different clutch / cmc. Excellent, really helpful; thank you!
Such an amazingly positive comment, I truly appreciate it. These kind of comments I literally show my GF because it means a lot. Glad to help buddy!
I have a stock CMC and Slave with stage 1 exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel. I Have been driving for a few thousands miles now and lately it has been getting a little hard going into gears. Thought I’d try this since I was told you need to adjust clutch pedal after a new clutch replacement. Did exactly what you said in the video and man, it feels like I got a new clutch. It feels even better when I got the car back with 0 miles on the new clutch. I owe you big time!
this is one of the best videos i’ve seen on adjustment! keep it up watching a year later !
Wow bro I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. Thank you so much!!
Thank you SO MUCH. I was having serious high-RPM shift lockout issues in my 8th gen FA5, and this solved everything. Car shifts like new and the catch point is way higher, more like an EP3.
katchF22 that’s really awesome to hear bro!! Have fun hitting VTEC! 🔥
came here to comment the same thing. I got my FA5 6 months ago and finally adjusted the clutch pedal. 7k+ RPM I was locked out of 2nd and 3rd. Now I have no problems. Super high engagement point! Huge gains from a 20 minute adjustment.
@@Visw Super good to hear man!! And thanks for commenting, it helps other people see the video and hopefully it will help them too
Bro!!! Can not thank you enough, owned my SI for 4 years and its running better than ever! Peace
Awesome bro! Super glad to hear that!!
Really appreciate you making this video. My clutch was slipping so bad after I installed the Si CMC on my 08 Si. Now it feels like oem!
Hey that's awesome man!! glad to help
Just did this on my daughters civic, your instructions were so clear, it went perfectly. Hardest part was squeezing my oversized melon under the dash so I could see everything…excellent video, thanks!
Years later still helping people I really appreciate it. My only issue is I'm trying to figure out how to get my engagement lower. I love my pedal feel now but it's grabbing at the top. I tried adding more threads on the stopper and then readjusting the clutch rod but it seems to still be grabbing high. trying to understand the whole dynamics of this but I can't figure out what would give me a lower engagement point.
Hey buddy sorry for the late reply. Basically the freeplay will affect where the clutch grabs a little bit. But if you want it to grab 'a lot' sooner you have to make the pedal stroke shorter. So if you go to a little more threads showing and then redo the freeplay then the pedal will grab sooner because less fluid is pushed into the clutch line, so on the pedal release it wont grab quite as high up. However it might also make the clutch release a little less smooth. If its a comfort thing then just go little by little. Going to a K-tuned EM1 CMC will give you a shorter overall pedal travel but in my opinion makes it more difficult to drive in traffic because it engages right after you let the pedal up from the floor, and its more sensitive in general. But that's preference because I know some people are use to that
@@JasonMcMullen thanks for the reply I'll keep doing some tinkering and find the sweet spot
@@JasonMcMullenhey so I have a stage 2 competition clutch and I’m switching to a Ktuned CMC. Would I need .5-1 threads showing on the sensor?
@datboidell7722 I want to know too, I'm having a similar set up.
I refer so many people to your video. I know our cars CMC gets bad attention but I'm convinced a lot of people just have their clutch adjusted incorrectly and it accounts for a lot of their chunky gear changes.
wow thanks bro! I appreciate that! 🙏And yeah I agree, even I thought that until I adjusted mine
I'm a little late to the game but I got an fg2 a couple months back and this helped a shit ton. Much appreciated thanks for uploading this
Hey thanks so much for coming back and commenting, I really appreciate it. And glad that it helped you buddy!
Excellent video. Super informational, no gimmicks, no extra bs, just straight knowledge. Respect
I'm about to try this soon on my 06 si b/c it engages super low. I'd like it halfway or alil lower than halfway. 1 thread for stock cmc right. And the rod turning is micro adjustments to go "a little" less than halfway. Hope i'm understanding it lol
🙏🙏🙏 thanks bro! It should make your pedal higher for sure, and should make shifting smoother. The height adjustment (threads) will change the engagement point dramatically. The rod (freeplay) changes it a little. You get it. But if you go to 1 thread it will be a little higher than halfway most likely. So maybe go to a little more threads showing if it really bothers you. Also make sure to always redo the freeplay after adjusting the threads. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks dude, really appreciate it. Ok will do
Adjusted on my FG2. Feels just like my FG1. It really changed the clutch feel for the better
good to hear bro! 👏
Stock clutch? I just got a fg2 to I wanna get the shifting better kinda get notchy feel but I know it’s not synchros
Stock clutch will be very close to the stage 1 adjustment in the video, (about the same amount of threads showing) @@mrslapside
@@JasonMcMullen thanks! These k series are tricky at shifting hehe im new and use to the old 92 civic with b series 😂
Just did this adjustment and worked like a charm.
Best clutch adjustment video I could find for my car thank you man 💯
Great to hear bro!
freaking A man! I'm subbed, not even sure this will fix my problem but it sure was clear and concise.
Hey thanks buddy!! 🙌
After watching this video
You got my car back on the road
Youve earned a new subscriber
ayyyy awesome to hear bro! And thank you, I'm trying to work on some new vids
thanks for the help brotha, after swapping out my cmc i tried adjusting the clutch and failed miserably, was hard to pop into gear and rear was locking me into gear. After using this information, im getting into gear clean with no problem. crazy how this little adjustment is really important.
You made a great video here. Im having what I believe is disengagement issues. Every gear is shifting like i have no clutch and its lurching a tiny bit every time i get it in first gear. Im giving this a shot right now.
James Jetson I hope it helps!!
Clutch stopper was set at about 7 threads showing and the cmc was set all the way counterclockwise. Did the adjustments and it now shifts great. Owned it for 12 years now and never adjusted it till now. I assume thats how it comes from the factory. Vid was a big help, thanks.
@@jamesjetson3812 Great to hear!!
Just installed my cmc , I’m going to try this when I get home. People don’t forget he posted a proper bleeding method as well. Do both and you such be good to go! I cannot wait to go try this because my car is stuccccck 🤦♂️
Hey thanks bro!! I hope the adjustment helps 🙏🤙
Just installed my em1 cmc and my ktuned slave, and your video helped dial everything up. I cant thank you enough! 🤙🤙
Excellent to hear buddy! Thank you for the super nice comment!
@@JasonMcMullen Okay so I've been driving it for a bit, and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrate now. Everything I've adjusted is to spec, I used all the right pieces. I didnt have any issues with the clutch pedal vibrating before I replaced the cmc and the slave. Is this due to my new setup do you think? Or could it be something totally different?
The Beldam hmm does it vibrate when using it or just anytime?
@@JasonMcMullen When I take up the freeplay and actually shift into another gear. Low rpms there's hardly any, but vibration is extremely high when im in Vtec. Im thinking its just more feedback from the trans due to the braided line?
The Beldam do you feel a lot of pressure on the pedal too, near the bottom of the stroke? If so you might have to make the pedal height lower (more thread showing) and then redo the freeplay. Because the em1 style cmc doesn’t need as much space to release. But the freeplay also affects it, so first try a couple more mm of freeplay. Most likely just adding a few mm of freeplay won’t be enough and you will have to make the pedal shorter then redo the freeplay to about 10mm. By doing so the stroke will get shorter and hopefully get rid of the pressure. If you don’t feel pressure but just weird vibration let me know. It could be that the slave cylinder rod needs urea grease or that something is wrong with the cmc/slave itself (a leak).
Thanks for your help ! Really,the best video i've found and it helped me a lot! I did this on my european Civic Tourer 2015,although they are different, the system is the same.There's not that much space down there,like you have.I couldn't reach 12mm nut on CMC,so i bent one of my 12-13mm wrenches to catch the nut properly.And no matter how much I turn the rod on CMC, I got no freeplay.But I left it as you described and it works perfect.Keep up the good work,bro!!!
awesome to hear that its working well! glad to help!
This is the best video for clutch adjustment. Thank you
still one of the best videos i’ve seen out there 💯💯🔥🔥
"A blessing from the Lord"
🙏🙏
This man was sent from heaven! I found so much contradicting information on different forums and this man knows what's up! So much better! You beautiful, beautiful human!
Lol this is by far the best comment I've ever seen. Thanks so much you splendid individual!! Happy to help in any way I can
And he's still actively in the comments, what did we do to deserve this! I was getting so frustrated haha. Someone needs to go hit the 8th civic forum and post this video on EVERY "CMC adjustment" thread!
@@ImPaCTSnYpEr I went through a lot of frustration before too so totally know what you mean! And thanks again!! You're too nice, its very much appreciated. And thanks for the Sub! (subbed back)
Best tutorial on adjusting clutch pedal by far, thanks 🙏, too bad I didn’t watch it before I almost ruin my clutch by not adjusting properly.
Thanks so much bro! and I hope your clutch is all good buddy! I almost did the same before I found out the right way
great video . I had problems banging gears after having Honda put In a new clutch and pressure plate. It shifts way smoother and I can bang gears without waiting for the revs to drop.I found out they had over 5 threads showing on the clutch pedal SMH!!! Thanks I appreciate the Help a lot.
Man it was the exact same for me, after I got my car back from Honda (clutch/flywheel) it didn't shift very smooth, which led me to make this video. So glad you are banging through gears again bro! Have fun
great explanation and footage. Thanks for this
hey dude , I read you're coment on Briana's video and thank you for youre suport and she can not waith for the game neather ;)
Thanks bud, yeah its gonna be awesome!
Didn't even realize this could be an issue. I do have occasional grinding, the classic 3rd gear grind on these. Saw that the clutch pedal isn't set up properly, so gonna give this a shot. Think mine had 2-3 threads showing. In a FA1 which I believe uses a different CMC but everything is setup pretty much the same.
Followup. I bought my FA1 used so idk if the previous owner adjusted it but having 1-1.5 thread showing and half turn from resistance point on CMC leaves you with veryyyy little freeplay . It's pretty nice since it feels really responsive and if you allow more freeplay it's pretty easy to have the push rod and cmc touching.
I'm gonna roll with it. It feels a lot more natural to me now
Hey did it fix ur grinding
did it fix the 3rd gear grind?
Best tutorial out there. Thanks man!
Thanks man! Glad to help!
Great video. Mine grinds in 3rd sometimes. I just looked at how many threads mine is showing on the back end and it’s prob 7-8 lol it’s all factory also. So I am going to adjust it to only about one thread showing. Thank you so much. This should help my clutch so much.
I hope it helps buddy!
Did it help?
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
thank you, will try to use this method for my 2010 mazda 6 6-speed, i believe it is the same (except for the clutch stop recommendations on the clutch stop number of threads, which might be different slightly).
Super knowledgeable and overall really well done video. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks man I really appreciate it! Glad to help any way I can
Thank you for this! I originally adjusted my push rod until it was completely tight, but after watching your video, I went back in and backed it off about half a turn. Thanks for the thorough explanation and great camera angles!
OMG... Only if you made this video 10 yrs ago......
Great video very Detailed
thank you sir!!
Bro my clutch is releasing too high… so I turn it clockwise ?
Damn finally something that actually works!! Awesome shit dude m.
Glad it worked out well for you buddy! Have fun shifting
Highly skilled !!
Thanks I wish you were in hawaii and could help me!
Haha actually I do live in Hawaii 🤙🤙 (oahu)
Thanks!
This video helped. Only problem with mine is I can't freely move the rod into cmc. Nut is stuck on it. Had to vise grip the rod then wrench the nut tight.
oh, this is on a 08 TSX
Thanks for the video Jason!
Right on bro! Thank you for the comment!
thx mate,it works!:) bit hustle with UK civic version ,few swerings and fixed:) thx!:)
hahah well I'm glad its working! awesome
This worked for me thanks for the video. I saved a lot of money 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
heck yeah bro!!
what if i have an em2 cmc? do i adjust it as the em1 or the stock cmc?
Great video!
Oooooo MYYYYY GOD!!! This was sooo helpful. I have a small question i replaced my OEM clutch with a Exedy stage 1 clutch + EFT fly wheel and im going to install a aftermarket CMC EM1 should i follow that same recommendation you mentioned in this video of leaving 5 threads on the under side? Please if anyone knows would be greatly appreciated thank you
is it the hybrid racing EM1 CMC or the K-tuned one?
Also thank you!!
@@JasonMcMullen its an Exedy cmc and smc thank you so much for replying
@@saitekina_og9271 Yeah should be around 5 threads. If you have trouble shifting then go to less threads and redo the freeplay
@@JasonMcMullen thank you so much! Will be trying this on the weekend once i get my new CMC
Thanks bro I will try this out, my Rsx grinds on 3rd so hopefully this helps
did it work?
Great vid! I'm having issues with my 08 si clutch. Shifts perfectly when cold but a lot harder to shift when it warms up after about 30 minutes driving. Going to give this a shot! Any suggestions if this doesn't work?
Slightly Stoopid thanks buddy, I would say check the clutch lines for any leaks first, then adjust the clutch after. If that doesn’t help, perhaps bleeding the hydraulic system for air will also help
Any update for this im having the same problem
This helps a lot, thankss clutch feels good
No prob, glad to hear
Awesome video.
Needa do this asap for mine
9:20 your explanation is great but it was hard to see which way you were turning the push rod. Was clockwise movement turning the rod left (toward centre console) and anticlockwise turning rod toward the right (or toward the brake pedal)? It was hard to tell at the final demo with the unit on the table. Thx
Also will this help my low bite point where I can't help but sometimes drag the clutch where there is a often a horrific squeal where it seems I'm riding the clutch
The direction is correct and yes it will rise the bite point! Thanks for the nice comment buddy!
@@JasonMcMullen Ah thx Jason, just didn't want to mess up the direction of the push rod (being dyslexic and that).
Using my thumb on the bottom of the rod and moving my thumb to the left ((a)clockwise?) and then right ((b)anticlockwise?) (if you get my meaning);if this is correct, which direction (a or b) extends the rod toward the foot pedal stop ( correct?) And then which direction (a or b) is the half turn?
Finally another vid says pedal adjustment on stock clutch is up to 2 threads long and yours just half a thread. What is best?
Really appreciate this. Hope to fall in love with my 8th gen euro accord again if I can just get this darn clutch right from being too low😫
@@bronniesboy Yeah clockwise till you feel a tiny bit of resistance, then half a turn counterclockwise (can go full turn also). Basically this just resets the freeplay after the height adjustment (the thread count showing)
If you go to less threads showing, then the bite point will be higher. So if you go to 2 threads (stock) it will bite shortly after the pedal leaves the floor. But half thread will rise the bite point to about half way up
@JasonMcMullen I have the ktuned em2 style cmc with an action clutch stage 5. Am I still looking at doing 5 threads showing? Also, great video. Seems to be helping out a lot of people. Keep it up.
For a stage five you might need a little more throw, maybe try 4-5 and see how it is. Feel free to go to less (or more) depending on how it operates. Just make sure to redo the freeplay adjustment after the thread adjustment. Also if you already have it adjusted, take a picture of where it's at now so you can have a baseline to go back to if anything
Hey man ur a God sent thanks so much
Glad it helped man!! 🙏🤙
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
Oh wow thats interesting. Are you having any issues shifting? Or all good?
@@JasonMcMullen I recently had a high rpm grind from 1st to 2nd gear which lead me to google the fix!!
Thanks to you and your vid. I ended up making a small adjustment to the cylinder where and exposed one more line of thread.
Driving today felt great. Small difference but my heel-toes are much smoother 🙂
Have not yet tried high rpm 1st to 2nd yet. lol
@@aznippy Awesome to hear buddy!! LMK if you have any issues
Awasome vid!
thanks bro!
Hey whats up everyone im having some issues with my cmc and slave, I replaced my clutch,pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing with competition clutch 1.5 stage, 8 pound flywheel and also I installed the CMC and slave combo from Ktuned, this was about 10 moths ago, I drive every day this car about 40 miles per day sometimes with LA traffic and some spirit driving on weekends, around a moth ago my problems started, I was at a red light and right when I was taking off( releasing clutch) I feel the clutch “bitting as usual” but before I completely released it I felt the pedal clutch go kinda “soft” and the bite wasn’t as hard and the release point was higher, I had the clutch adjustment rod showing 5 treads since the day I installed everything and the cmc rod adjusted by my mechanic, I’ve been doing a lot of research on how to adjust the rod, I’ve watch videos and I clearly understand I have to spin it clockwise until you feel some kind of resistance, here’s my first problem, the ktuned cmc rod doesn’t spin just with your fingers, you have to use some pliers in order to spin it, so how I’m i supposed to feel the resistance everybody is talking about ?
Second problem: I went to my slave cylinder and I try to press it with my fingers and I just couldn’t is hard as a rock...tried again messing with the cmc rod, if I spin it clock wise my engagement feel higher and clutch pedal soft but if I spin it counterclockwise it will
Actually feel shorter and more firm, I know my slave cylinder is supposed to be able to move with my fingers so I went under the dash again today and I spin the rod counterclockwise more so I could try to fix my slave issue but when I tried to start up my car It just wouldn’t start, so I put the rod back in the position I adjusted first and everything was “ok” Again, also I would like to address that when I’m in traffic in first gear or second and I completely release the clutch without touching the gas my car still moves, like if I was gassing it a little bit or releasing just a little the clutch, what you guys think is my problem ? CMC or slave? I checked and any of them are leaking... clutch ? Throw out bearing ? I would really appreciate any help, thanks
Thank you for this video . Just drove my car for 1.5 years with the clutch 5 turns out of spec . Feels like a band new car again
Great video
Hey Jason, great video dude. More in depth than anything I've seen with others. So I was thinking about doing this on my 2011 Si I just picked up. 88k and serviced at Honda so the clutch and everything feels good. Only issue I'm having is when I'm shifting at high rpm in VTEC. For example, when I'm in 3rd pulling, it will shift into 4th okay (still have rev hang but if I time it right it shifts smooth) but as I'm pulling 4th and I go to shift into 5th, it will either grind for sec and then engage or just lock it out completely. Same goes for 6th sometimes too. I have Acuity shifter and base bushings, centering spring, and a weighted shift knob on the way right now. Planning on seeing what that does to the slop when shifting at high rpms. So if those don't solve the issue, would you recommend this as my next move? Only had the car a little over a week so I'd like to take care of this asap. Really appreciate it man 👍
Keith Fendley hey thanks man I really appreciate it! You can try to give yourself a little more release travel (less threads showing on the clutch height adjustment screw, then redo the freeplay). When I got my car back from Honda (after my stage 1 action clutch was installed) I had to adjust it a little also. It felt good but was too notchy. Just go little by little and see if it helps. Also measure the current freeplay with a ruler and note how many threads are showing just in case want to go back to your current settings
Excellent job dude. Wunderbar...... vielen Dank))
Thank you! Danke
Recently install Hybrid Racing kit for my 2007 Honda Civic Si and reuse the OEM rod and bracket to my EM1 CMC. I follow the instructions and the next day my clutch pedal starts to make clucking/ squeaking nosies. I try to grease CMC but it didn't work. I even double check my work but the same noise happens even after being adjusted multiple time. It keeps on respawning back in the morning. Noise would die down for now.
squeaking can also be from not greasing the Slave Cylinder rod where it touches and moves the clutch fork. Urea grease is the best
Thanks for the insights 💯
Glad to help. Thanks for the Sub!!
So, what I am taking away from this Is that the free play is the most important part, and that you can raise/lower the pedal engagement point with the stopper - as long as free play is adjusted to in spec all is well?
yeah but also the engagement point changes the amount that the clutch releases, so people who have issues with grinding and non-smooth shifting can change the engagement point in order to fix that issue
Last time I did this the whole rod came off. It was a pain to get back on. My second gear still grinds sadly.
That would be a hassle for sure. When you did it previously was that with an aftermarket CMC or stock CMC? Yeah unfortunately even if the clutch properly disengages it wont fix a problem with worn transmission synchronizers or other transmission issues. For me my 3rd gear has always had a minor issue of not always going in smoothly (no grind though) but I bought the car second hand (from the original owner) and the damage was already done so I just have to deal with it. Thanks for the comment bro
Jason McMullen yeah it was the stock cmc. I’m trying again today but the rod seems to be really stiff to turn.
xUNFLAMMABLEx Yeah like I mention at the end of the video, the threads can get slightly bent from locking it down and then it makes it difficult to readjust. You can push the pedal down just a tiny bit and it makes it easier to rotate the rod, but the problem is when you let the pedal back out you will have a different amount of free play, so you have to measure with a ruler then go back and readjust if it’s not in spec. I have a brand new CMC and it rotates easily, but my old one didn’t. I’m not telling you to buy a new one, just sharing my experience. Hope it works out for you brotha
Jason McMullen thanks bro I rewatched the video so many times and I’ve gotten the car to not grind surprisingly and I raced 3 different car lmao. Clutch seems to work good but the clutch engages right away
@@cristiansblackfg2656 Good to hear bro! Gotta have fun hitting VTEC. The freeplay can change the engagement point a little but if you have it not grinding now then maybe just see if you can get use to it before changing it again. I know I adjusted mine way too many times lol
Damn excellent!! Video
Thank you very much, hope it makes shifting nice for you
I would adjust it to disengage close to the floor… it be too much back travel with the regular clutch position.
Thanks , help me a lot 👌🏻
It's not a line wrench, it's a box wrench. Line wrenches are for brake line and clutch line fittings. But great video and explanation!
Clutch Pedal Stroke:
130 140 mm (5.12 5.51 in.)
Clutch Pedal Free Play:
10 16 mm (0.39 0.63 in.)
Clutch Pedal Height:
197 mm (7.76 in.)
Clutch Pedal Disengement Height:
115 mm (4.53 in.)
Thank you so so so much for this❤️
Thanks for the comment bro, glad it helped!
Hey Jason,
I have a 2002 RSX. Just got the transmission rebuild and got a 1.5 stage Competition Clutch installed. My mechanic told me he didn't feel like he needed to adjust the clutch pedal. The clutch grabs pretty low compared to before.
Sometimes when I'm at a stop light, I can't shift into 1st and some gears are hard to shift into. At one point I couldn't shift into 1st at all, it was like I wasn't pressing in the clutch.
I will look into adjusting the clutch pedal following your video instructions. Since the clutch is grabbing pretty low, that means I want to adjust the rod for more freeplay, yes?
I appreciate your input!
The freeplay only affects it a little bit, most likely you are gonna want to go to less threads showing, which lengthens the pedal travel. Always redo the freeplay after adjusting the pedal travel because it throws it off when you do. From what you said, an adjustment will certainly help, the pedal will grab higher and the shifting should be smoother after
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the reply Jason! So I adjusted the screw, it was way off. It had like 10 threads over. Once I adjusted it to 1.5 threads, the shifting is much smoother.
But now I have a new problem. When I'm in neutral in idle, I now hear a slight chatter noise. Once I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. Any ideas? This noise was not there when before adjusting the pedal.
Thanks!
@@Shorty15c4007 maybe try to go to 2 or 3 threads showing, but first can you check the freeplay with a ruler? you want to have at least 10mm
@@Shorty15c4007 do you have a Type-S or regular? because the 1 thread is for the Type-S
@@JasonMcMullen I have a 5 speed base with a Type-S clutch and flywheel.
I will go 2-3 threads and see if I can achieve a sweet spot. And I'll double check the free play distance
amazing video thanks man
Good explanation! What would happen if i do not tighten the nud on the rod again and drive?
My mechanic did this for me because it was really hard to shift, I’ve noticed though my clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor and it’s coming out of adjustment, before I saw that the nut by the yellow clutch switch the clutch was pushing on the switch/stopper, BUT now it’s very far from the clutch pedal and I can’t engage my cruise control anymore because the switch isn’t being pushed and the car thinks the clutch is pushed in 24/7. Should I readjust and use blue loctite or something? Because it was fine for about a week and now it’s coming out of adjustment again. Not sure if the CMC is just letting the rod sink into itself, I’m not having any leaks, so I’m gonna try and do this today see if I can get it good again. Once he did it to me my car felt like a whole new car, I stalled a few times getting used to the clutch engagement points being different on the pedal haha. Now it’s back to about how it was before I can only assume it’s coming out of adjustment, I want to loctite ? But maybe I should just adjust it like this first and see if I can get it really tight first, and wait to see if it works its way back out of adjustment. It was so bad before I was nearly locked out of 1st and reverse. So hard to shift because I really wasn’t using my entire clutch pedal because of how bad it was.
Nova hmm yeah try to adjust it, tighten everything down, take a picture of the cruise control switch/stopper so you can keep track of the position of it. Measure the freeplay with a ruler so you can check it again later. In my experience there is no need for loctite, but maybe there is some oil or fluid on the threads? Can try wiping it with some brake parts cleaner
@@JasonMcMullen I tried adjusting the nut out so I can spin the rod and the nut is now stuck all the way back on the rod. Also the rod was incredibly hard to twist, I actually twisted the rod using the nut and I’m not able to get pliers in there to hold the rod while breaking the nut free it’s stuck on the threads, didn’t use loctite :( adjustment is ok now but idk for how long with the nut all the way back
@@JasonMcMullen I just had a few beers went out and hit it again and got it first try cracked the nut loose with pliers and tightened down thanks so much for the video Comrade!
@@Novaah803 lol nice! Good to hear bro! Also if you push the pedal down very slightly it will make the rod easy to spin
When I did the em1 clutch master on my rsx I had to use the original pushrod from the old clutch master I could no get the master to bolt up it kept hitting the pedal even with it adjusted all the way back
With the K-tuned one you dont have to do that, but yes with other em1 units you may have to do that, there is a tutorial on the hybrid racing website for that
Good Lawd THANK YOU sir🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙌🏻
Mark Rubio glad to help sir
So my release bearing was already toasted, but I watched a video (prior to this) that was not as clear and adjusted the rod until it was super stiff, and rolled it over a few more times after that. I’m not 100% sure if I aided in the throwout bearing doing what it does now (squealing for it’s life whenever the clutch is not engaged, even when the car is moving in gear) but I’d better fix my adjustments.
Long story short: The idea is for the rod to just be sort of snug and not fully secured, correct?
Hey buddy, yeah you want the rod to have a little bit of freeplay, so once you thread it in until you feel resistance, then thread it out (counterclockwise) minimum a half turn, maybe more. When you check the the pedal freeplay with a ruler, the pedal has to have 10mm or more of freeplay (dead pedal). If you spin the rod counterclockwise more then it will give you even more freeplay. If the pedal has less than 10mm of dead pedal then its possible that the release bearing will still be hitting the clutch even with the pedal out, and it will damage the bearing and the clutch. I hope the adjustment helps, I know how it is because when I bought my car it already had a noisy/damaged release bearing so I eventually replaced the clutch/flywheel/bearing and it cost me some money, but hopefully you will be ok. And yeah the other videos that don't cover setting the proper amount of freeplay are kinda dangerous honestly, which is another reason why I made this video. Hope it helps bro
Outstanding video!
I just got the hard motion EM1 with slave. I have an Exedy stage one clutch. Hard Moton recommends swapping the piston rod with stock. So am I looking at 5ish threads based on the CMC/clutch or 2ish threads based on the push rod swap? Thank you in advance
P.S. I love the upper strut bar
Thank you so much! Try 2 threads but if you feel pressure at the bottom of the pedal when shifting at high RPM then shorten the pedal and maybe go to 5. Because you swap the rod, I think it will be closer to stock but I'm not sure so it might take some trial. Let me know what you end up at and I'll put it in the description
Jason, just installed and went with exactly two threads. Based on pedal feel it engages at about 2 inches off the floor. Feels perfect with no pressure that I can tell.
I think I need to do this in my car. The pedal has too much free play and the clutch disengages as soon as I start releasing the pedal, not half way. I recently had the clutch changed and I think this wasn't done to my 8th Gen Civic SI. Now my car doesn't take well the shifts to the point I feel I'm going to break the shift knob. It feels like the clutch is not engaging enough
Yeah give it a try, it sounds like it does need an adjustment. Mine was kinda like that before also
Just did this on my si and it's a night and day difference before I had 4 threads exposed and the clutch grabbed at the bottom switched it down to 1 thread and now it releases more towards the top and feels like every other manual trans I've driven also doing this made my 1-2 2-3 shifts way smoother
Great to hear buddy, yeah its like all of a sudden it shifts smooth like it should
I have the hybrid cmc and used my stock rod 02 rsx type s. I’m having troubles finding the perfect spot. I had it adjusted to a decent spot but i tried to adjust it again and now I can’t get it back to that decent spot I had
I'm having issue with adjusting the CMC rod,I can't turn it either way, I also have 5 threads showing(k tuned CMC and slave) bleed the whole system 4 times to make sure there was no air and yeah there's a lot of play in the clutch pedal and the fork barely moves,I tried to do it by pressing the pedal a bit and turning it but it didn't work😕.
do you have a ruler to measure the freeplay? Most likely there is too much. If you thread the nut down then you might be able to turn it with that but the nut might get stuck too. You could also try to go to less threads showing and it might add enough throw to make the fork move. Its really tough to do when the threads on the rod are damaged but it is possible using measurements. Worst case, you can put a little lube in the area, then spray it with a little brake parts cleaner once it is in the right place
@@JasonMcMullen I got it working, guess what was the problem? The pedal was broken from left side and had to weld it 😂FML I spend 4 days and a new CMC and slave on it.
@@abdurkhan6075 damn bro that’s crazy! Glad you worked out a solution 💪
I just replaced my clutch to a stage 1 action clutch and have the hybrid racing cmc. The instructions for the cmc said to replace the rod with the stock rod. So do I have half to one thread showing? Or 5 threads showing? TIA!
I believe if you replace the rod then your adjustment should be similar to a stock cmc (1 thread showing)
@@JasonMcMullen sounds good! I’ll give it a shot and let you know. Thanks for replying!
I noticed in the description you now advise 2 threads for EM1 cmc. I see you credited someone for this info, but how did this come about when it's been the 5 threads for so long? I can't find any other information about this.
Hybrid Racing one is 2 threads because you swap the rod (so its close to stock adjustment), the k tuned em1 style and the aftermarket Em1 are still 5 threads
Thanks for sharing. In my Honda manual it also states to adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch along with the other two adjustments shown in this video, did you also adjust the Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch or it's not necessarily necessary unless the car gives you an issue with start-up? Thank you
Hey buddy, most people dont have to but if you have any problems starting the car then adjust it according to the manual, I believe it says to adjust it so that the car still starts even with your foot about 10mm off the floor
@@JasonMcMullen Thank you for the insight. I have another question, if I turn the pushrod going into the CMC all the way clockwise till resistance is felt then turn back counter clockwise one full turn and lock it down, with the clutch switch adjusted so that the bottom of the threads just touches the clutch pedal released plus an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn, I still have more free-play than I would like.
From my understanding the above process is to adjust the clutch pedal height from the ground (6.5"), will re-adjusting the CMC rod possibly a half-turn clockwise without touching the clutch switch remove some free-play without affecting the pedal height since it has already been established?
It's tricky to know how far clockwise you can go with the CMC pushrod because when you feel slight resistance with the clutch pedal released, if you turn slightly more it get's very loose almost as if the rod is being removed from the CMC. If I adjust the CMC rod with the clutch pedal slightly pushed in, then its even more tricky to know how far you can turn clockwise before it gets very loose again because the resistance is so slight. The clutch has been bleed and it's an OEM replacement Exedy clutch kit and stock CMC. Thank you.
@@vanquishstorm Hey buddy, the best way to deal with freeplay is with a mm ruler, that way you can make sure you have enough, it can be very tricky to know like you said, especially if the cmc is not turning smoothly. Most likely you can just remove a little freeplay but its best to measure after to make sure you have at least 9-10mm (to ensure the throw-out bearing is not being engaged with the pedal up). Using a brand new cmc it spins easy so its not really a problem. Using a new one I can count the amount of turns it takes to go all the way in and the amount it takes to go all the way out (you dont want it to be either all the way in or all the way out)
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks for the insight. Being that I'm adjusting the pushrod in the original old CMC in my car, it doesn't turn as smoothly which can make it tricky to gauge if you are too far out in adjustment. I'm going to measure all of my adjustments with a ruler to verify that I am within specification. Thanks again.
@@JasonMcMullenMy apology for all the questions, as far as engaging/disengaging the clutch, if you dont have enough freeplay than the clutch pedal when released may always remain slightly engaged (friction disc applied on flywheel/ release bearing possibly touching pressure plate)? Disengaging the clutch would therefore be the opposite (clutch pedal pressed to the floor/friction disc not applied to flywheel)?
I recently installed a new clutch and the car drove fine for about a month and now I cant get it into gear with the car running. I can get in all my gears with the car turned off aswell the CMC is not leaking. With this issue, the pedal had very little pressure engaging closer towards the ground. I bled the clutch yesterday and regained pedal pressure but I'm assuming I will also need to dial in the freeplay since the friction disc is now most likely broken in.
The issue that I am having with the pedal engagement low to the ground and the car not going into gear with the car running, is that an issue engaging or disengaging the clutch? Also, could this have caused any harm to the clutch/trans not being able to go in gear? When I drove the car everything was functioning properly. Thank you for your time.
I just adjust the paddle adjustment it got rid of my 2 gear lockout but my 4 gear high rpm grinds now, didn't do it before. What u think happen.
You can try to adjust the pedal a little further out (a little less thread showing on the bottom of the adjustment screw). As long as clutch has enough room to release it should operate properly in 4th also. Some people with k-series transmissions have worn sychros from so many years of shifting with the clutch not releasing fully, but you probably just need to adjust a tad more. As long as the clutch releases the rest is up to the transmission. My 3rd gear is a little notchy but with my clutch adjusted it doesn't grind. Let me know and I'll help anyway I can bro
Clutch is fully adjusted but bite point is 1 inch off the ground, no grinds.. help??
Is it suppose to be em2 or em1 clutch master? Im trying to understand what you are saying but I’m not following. I bought a em2 master for my rsx but it has over almost 2 inches of freeplay. Need advice.
Most people use an em1 but some people use an em2. My video is for em1 but the em2 is similar. Basically if you are having trouble shifting then you need to make the pedal longer, and you can do that by going to less threads showing on the adjustment screw. For freeplay, the rod will let you adjust the freeplay after adjusting the height. If you spin it clockwise and then lock it down (with the nut) then it will give you less freeplay. You want about 10mm of freeplay.
I have a ktuned cmc and slave kit on my 05 type s. I've bled the clutch fluid 3x for good measure and confirmed there is no bubbles anywhere. My question is, is it normal to have more than 10-15mm of freeplay after adjusting with 6 threads showing? Since its hard to turn the cmc rod with my fingers i had to use pliers, do I just adjust it till the cruise control switch is fully pressed and flushed? Btw I do have unknown stage 1 clutch and flywheel if that helps. Thankyou!
So with a stage 3 action clutch and cmc em1 upgraded slave cylinder I want 5 threads showing?
Thanks for the video it really helped but when I am adjusting free play on the cmc rod. I have to slightly push in the pedal or it won’t rotate the rod, if I have it anymore to the left then about 1.5 turns. But I am only at like 8 mm of few play at 1.5 turns back counterclockwise from all the way clock wise
Alex Christian can you rotate it more counter clockwise? If you can go another half turn or so counter clockwise it would be ideal, to try to get to 10mm. Usually it will rotate back out counterclockwise about 5 times before it hits the stopper (I know it’s hard to tell when you gotta push in the pedal). Let me know! Even having 8mm you probably won’t do any harm but it’s best to be safe and go by what Honda recommends
Jason McMullen I’ll try but I think the reason I have to push the pedal is because when the pedal is fully out the rod is contacting the cmc so I have found that point where it is just enough clockwise not to contact it but at that point it only has about 8mm of travel I think I will just have to see how that works
Jason McMullen well I took the car out to get groceries and it doesn’t seem to be having any problems I don’t smell or feel the clutch rubbing and I have just a hair of space in-between the rod and the cmc so It worked out I guess thank you for the tutorial dude. Every other one I’ve seen doesn’t even come close to how clear and detailed yours is
@@alexchristian5399 Good to hear bro!! Yeah its probably enough. And thanks man I really appreciate it!!
Old video so no clue if I will get an answer. Have a Hybrid Racing cmc which is a em1 style with a swapped stock rod. Currently have 5 threads showing and my clutch engagement/disengagement is very top of pedal and clutch after almost 6 months is starting to slip. But I think it that it might not be fully engaging. Wondering if adjusting it to 2 threads showing if it will change where the clutch is engaging/disengaging.
yeah if you replaced the rod, the adjustment should be around 1-2 threads showing. Try it out and lmk
@Jason McMullen yea we did a transmission rebuild with hybrid racing slave/master cylinder, cables, shifters detent springs etc. Friend doing it has been a Honda Tech for 15 years and is very picky about his cars. So I am pretty sure if my stage 4 clutch was in need of replacing he would of told me. So going to try this before replacing clutch.
@@johnkrstyen Yeah give it a try, there is a user guide available for the Hybrid Racing CMC on their website btw
i know im late i just got my clutch replaced and my clutch pedal feel wayyyyyy more softer now since i been riding on my first clutch for 130k miles and now its finally changed, but my question is even if i use OEM parts for my clutch will i have to adjust my pedal, and if so how much?