By far this is the best explanation for wiring a ceiling fan capacitor the correct way. Even if you don’t have a capacitance meter you just follow the values of each color and match them with the new colors on the new capacitor. Thank you for such a great detailed explanation.
I just called HD to open a case on my ceiling fan speeds not running they should be. High speed runs slow and only medium speed runs as it should. They ordered a replacement capacitor for us. The fan was just 1.5 yrs old but I am glad I called HD to check out the warranty. I was planning to buy a new fan to replace it. Your video is very helpful to my situation too.
Great video. I replaced the capacitor on my Hampton Bay today after I watched the video. All went as described. Toughest part of the job was packing everything back in to get the cap back on.
I picked up a Hampton Bay similar to this on the side of the road, of all places. I got it home, cleaned it up and checked it out and it works. . . . sort of. I think that the cap segments for the high and medium speeds are bad. It hums on the first position - but runs like it's on low speed. It hums louder on the second position but runs at medium speed (I think). The third position has no hum and it runs on low speed like it should. I replaced a smaller 4-blade ceiling fan in my garage with it and thought I would let it run until I learned a bit more about ceiling fan wiring and all. It moves a lot more air than the smaller ceiling fan on high. Your video made perfect sense and I will be replacing the capacitor soon. Thanks for the video!
Wow amazing totorial Boss. ANd since the capacitor was in the light kit this configuation is alot easier than when you have to do it on the ladder as you just did the replacement on the worktable. I enjoyed the video and look forward for more to come😎🤠
really great video very straight to the point glad you were able to fix this fan these were pretty solid fans back in the 2000's I believe the blades were hand carved as claimed in a catalog i have dated about 2008.
If you are asking if it's ok to replace a 105°C 300v cap with a 70°C 250v capacitor, I'd say no... as the temp rating is not as sturdy as the original. The 250v vs. 300v would be ok if it's US 120v powered, but not if Euro (220-230v) power. For temp and voltage, the replacement must have ratings that are equal to or exceed the original ratings, do not use if either rating is less than the original.
@@That_inflatable_guy123 Based on the questions that you are asking, I recommend that you have a licensed electrician take a look at it, and not attempt to do this yourself.
That's a Hampton Bay Antigua Plus. "DON'T THROW AWAY YOUR OLD CEILING FAN!" a contractor at a coffee shop threw out a fan that was spinning really slowly, and to make it worse, he did it without owner's permission (the contractor also threw away wall switch plates that were just removed for painting). I trash picked it and replaced the capacitor, spins fast again.
Yes, I always keep an eye on what contractors are tossing (both at work and at home ;) as they either don't have time to take the risk of attempting a repair that is not guaranteed, or are in the "it's not my money" camp... and just want to hit and run and get that check, lol. Thanks for tuning in and commenting!
@@halfmoontechlabs Yeah. The one I got, I don’t think it was suddenly struck by lightning, the capacitor just got bad over time. I remember when it used to be really fast and after replacing the capacitor it went really fast again. Also there was a time I got a free ceiling fan which was advertised as working. It was sitting in storage for years. When I first tested it, the motor wouldn’t even start. Replaced the capacitor and it works well again other than bearing noise, so I went ahead and replaced the bearings and now it’s super silent.
I havea question. I bought the same fan about 15yrs ago (bedroom) , love it. About 6yrs ago bought another same Hampyon Bay 56" Antigua fan (living room) ( just like the other fan I have / just like yours) The 1st fan I bought spins VERY fast on high...But the newer fan does not spin nearly as fast / nowhere close. Could there be a problem with the capacitor ? I love these fans , just wish the one in my living room would spin as fast as the older one. Thanks
The values on capacitors can be quite "squishy"... to put it nicely. The values can deviate 20% or more for some (defined as "tolerance" on some), and age has an effect on capacitance as well as a something called ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance), which can fool you into thinking the cap is still good if you just measured the capacitance. This is why if in doubt, check the ESR value too if you have a parts checker like the one in the video, if not, you could just change it anyway to see if it improves... if no big change, at least you now have a spare! Thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thanks for your reply. I do not have a parts checker like yours. A little FYI , the slower fan was that way from new. Both fans do operate with all 3 speeds ( never paid much attention to the lower speeds..just the High speed. If I were to remove the light kits to look at the capacitors on each fan/ and if they happen to have different numbers/ and values...would I create a problem by installing a capacitor with the numbers/values from the faster fan into the slower fan ?...Would I damage the slower fan ?
What a great tutorial! I think I have a newer Hampton fan... but I could NOT for the life of me find the right screw to loosen the box!! My Phillips screwdriver (with the diamond-shaped head) almost stripped the screw before I realized the screw in the fan box is cross-shaped! Is there a name for the type of screwdriver I need to fit this? Or does anyone know the bit size (number) I need? I have 3 packs of them and NONE are the right shape. Please help... I am no handy woman. I wish I could upload a pic.😞
When you say "diamond" shaped, do you mean a square hole in the center of the screw that may appear diamond shaped when turned at a 45° angle? I ask, because the "cross" shaped one sounds more like a proper Phillips the way you've described it. Flat blades and Phillips screws are typically used in many items, but in electrical work there is a variation used that actually is a square hole (there are different size square holes too, just to keep it fun ;), and if you don't commonly do electrical work, you may never see one in the wild. If I had to guess, you have somehow acquired a square driver, and confused it for a Phillips, which has a "plus sign" or a "cross" like profile when you view the end. Most likely the screws will be Phillips type, unless an electrician substituted another type. Anecdotally, there are also "Allen" screws, which have a hexagonal hole in the center, versus square, which require (drum roll please...) an "Allen" driver. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thanks for replying! So I have a common Phillips screwdriver tool that I used around the house to loosen and remove screws with ease a zillion times over. It's the SCREW in the fan that I'm realizing is not a normal screw... imagine a regular screw with a common circular-shaped head except it has the shape of a cross embedded into it... at first glance it appeared to be a common screw until I looked closely (after I noticed my Phillips screwdriver tool was starting to strip the screw). That's when I realized I needed a very different tool, like a wratchet with a bit that matches that weird screw? Can I email you a pic of the screw? Bet you'd be able to identify it right away. The shape doesn't sound like an Allen tool... but maybe it is! Hoping you can help. I need to get that fan capacitor replaced because the fan is giving me only 1 slow speed.😩
@@rootclinic9268 Ah, well there are "cross type" screws, and some are just 2 milled slots that at first glance look like a Phillips, but actually just use a flat blade in either slot. If you go to Wikipedia and do a search for "List of screw drives".... scroll down and look for "Cross" type screws, and see if this answers your question. I'd post the link, but RUclips can be funny about that, lol. Good luck, and thanks again for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs I found it using the search terms you provided to find the Wikipedia article!! It's a torque-set cruciform screw drive! Like whuh?? Apparently it's a special tamper-proof resistant screw. Ummm WHY did they use that on a... ceiling fan.😒 LOL. I'll pick up or oder the torque bit to fit my ratchet. Here's the Wiki explanation for anyone who encounters this odd-ball rare screw. "Torq-set is a cruciform screw drive used in torque-sensitive applications. The Torq-set head is similar in appearance to a Phillips drive in that it has a cross with 4 arms. In Torq-set however, the lines are offset from each other, so they do not align to form intersecting slots across the top of the head." THANKS @halfmoontechlabs!!!
Thanks for watching! I have not had to lubricate mine yet, but if it's like many other "permanently lubricated" motors (that do eventually need to be lubricated), it would require tearing into the fan a bit deeper to expose or gain access to the exposed surface of the bearings, and then dribble some 3-in-1 (or similar light oil) in while working it in by rotating the shaft, or motor itself. I found a decent example in another video, and I hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/EhhInGkRrDY/видео.html&ab_channel=ehowathomechannel
I noticed on your old capacitor the voltage for the 3.8 uf is 300v and on the new capacitor it is all 250v. Did this end up working for you? Because I did the same thing on my Hampton bay and it only lasted a few days before my low and medium settings were barely spinning again. High speed setting is still working fine though.
I'm not sure what adhesive was used in yours, but if you were to take something pointed, and you can deform the adhesive easily (after disconnecting and discharging old cap), it may be possible to gently warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften it enough to remove. Other glues will soften by using a solvent (alcohol or acetone for example), allowing you to gently pull it out and clean it up for replacement. If you do the latter, be sure to do it in a ventilated space, don't get it on anything else, and be sure to thoroughly allow time to completely dry before re-energizing! For some stubborn glues, sometimes the opposite works... throw the assembly in the freezer to cause the glue to become brittle, and then see it you can gently pry it out. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
question my capacitor doesn't show any damage I have power to pull switch on both sides and fan motor doesn't work what might be the problem. how could I tell if capacitor is bad.
If you hear the motor humming (but not moving) when powered on, and it still spins freely if spun by hand... then motor is probably good, and it's just the capacitor. As I'm assuming that you don't have a meter that measures capacitance, then most folks would just remove and replace the questionable capacitor with a new one of same value(s). They can hold a charge even after powering down for quite a while, so if you know this, and are comfortable working on electrical devices, then fine. If any of this has you scratching your head... then seek help from someone who is knowledgeable with electricity... be safe, and good luck. Thanks for watching!
Capacitor can look brand new and be very very bad. It was a case of one out of two Harbor Breeze Builder’s Series ceiling fan I got from a coffee shop. The capacitor looked brand new but high was less than half of what low speed is supposed to be, and it was barely spinning on medium and not at all on low. Replaced the capacitor, works well again.
I have 2 capacitors [a 2 wire and a 3 wire], I can't find replacements on line, the mfgr isn't able to help, the mfgr sent me to sources that want $25 each plus $10 shipping. Whaht do suggest ? I can send picture of the 2 capacitors so you can see their uF values.
I found mine at Amazon, under a vendor called HQRP. Just look for "ceiling fan capacitor" under this vendor or just a general Amazon search, and you'll find a ton of choices. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thank you for this information, I also have looked on Amazon. The HQRP supplier is a good source. However, I have 2 separate capacitors with different uF ratings. One cap is prob START the other is RUN. I have not been able to find a 2 wire [red wire and white wire] rated at 4uF with or a 3 wire [brown, purple gray wires] with 6uF ratings. I see a lot of capacitors with 5 wires but don't think i should try to use on of them. So basically I am at a loss.
@@roydunham3384 Sometimes if the there are say, 2 black wires, they can be in fact the same common wire, just internally connected to allow for ease of installation. I can't directly exchange advice or emails with viewers on electrical questions, so I recommend taking the fan or it's capacitors to a local hardware store (a real hardware store) and ask them in person, as they should have someone knowledgeable with electrical on staff. Or, pay the vendor you contacted the $25 plus shipping if you get stuck. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
I'm guessing you are referring to the capacitor life as it relates to temperature. Yes, capacitors have temperature ratings too (not always listed), but they generally perform fine in spaces where people live... but your mileage may vary depending on just how hot it gets... higher than rated temperatures typically chip away at longevity like most electronic components. Thanks for watching!
Just had a power outage from some idiot hitting a power pole & power was out 5 hours. The power came back & my fan was doing the exact same thing. I did oil it & got it to spin at low speeds but thats all it will do. The Hampton Bay fan we have was in this home 11 years ago when we bought it so it old & I went to look at some new fans & most are low wattage junk made for LEDs with 6-10 Watts per light fixture.
A nearby lightning strike took mine out, but power outages/sags/brownouts etc, can do the same damage to a capacitor. Hope this video helps you repair it, good luck, and thanks for watching!
The lightning zap would have created a temporary over voltage situation causing the cap to short internally therefore causing it to overheat and blister, under voltage would not have done this.
Though I agree that high voltage spikes are more commonly the cause (via perforation of dielectric, leading to internal short), another common cause is excessive heat, especially as caps age and the ESR starts to rise. LOW voltage for excessive periods (especially on highly inductive loads, like a motor) can cause heating (remember power is I²R), because the current spikes abnormally high from continually trying to turn a reluctant motor... power rises, and then the heat, and again, poof goes the cap. Many ways to cook a capacitor, but your point is taken ;) Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
The fan quit working and I thought it was the directional switch - wrong. I ordered a capacitor, but am guessing now. How do you measure mF - is that the same as Ohms? How would you distinguish between a faulty pull switch and a capacitor? I can barely hear the motor making a noise, but it does not move at all. Thanks for any advice.
From your description, it does sound like a bad capacitor. Some more advanced multi-meters do have a specific function for testing capacitors, but a large number do not have this capability. Resistance (measured in Ohms) is not the same as capacitance (measured in µF typically in this application). However, if the motor is humming, there is a good chance the switch is ok, or the motor would not be receiving power at all. It also implies that the motor windings are not "open" (burned out to the point of breaking or "opening" the circuit), or again you would not be hearing a hum. Good chance it is a capacitor, and also good that they are very inexpensive. Simply replace it wire for wire with a like type (I go over this in the video), and there is a good probability that it will work! Be safe though, kill the breaker to the fan first, and discharge the capacitor (short the leads together carefully) before handing any of the bare wires by hand. If any of this does not make sense, or you are unsure in any way, I suggest that you consult an electrician, or friend that has electrical experience before proceeding!!! Good luck, and thanks for watching... I hope this helps!
By far this is the best explanation for wiring a ceiling fan capacitor the correct way. Even if you don’t have a capacitance meter you just follow the values of each color and match them with the new colors on the new capacitor. Thank you for such a great detailed explanation.
I appreciate the comments, and thanks for watching!
I just called HD to open a case on my ceiling fan speeds not running they should be. High speed runs slow and only medium speed runs as it should. They ordered a replacement capacitor for us. The fan was just 1.5 yrs old but I am glad I called HD to check out the warranty. I was planning to buy a new fan to replace it. Your video is very helpful to my situation too.
Glad that you found it helpful, and best of luck! Thanks for watching.
Great video. I replaced the capacitor on my Hampton Bay today after I watched the video. All went as described. Toughest part of the job was packing everything back in to get the cap back on.
Nice work, thanks for watching!
You just saved me hundreds of dollars - Nowhere did the user manual explain how to remove that bowl. Wow...thank you!!!
You are welcome, and thanks for watching!
I picked up a Hampton Bay similar to this on the side of the road, of all places. I got it home, cleaned it up and checked it out and it works. . . . sort of. I think that the cap segments for the high and medium speeds are bad. It hums on the first position - but runs like it's on low speed. It hums louder on the second position but runs at medium speed (I think). The third position has no hum and it runs on low speed like it should.
I replaced a smaller 4-blade ceiling fan in my garage with it and thought I would let it run until I learned a bit more about ceiling fan wiring and all. It moves a lot more air than the smaller ceiling fan on high.
Your video made perfect sense and I will be replacing the capacitor soon.
Thanks for the video!
Good luck with the repair, and thanks for watching!
Definitely a capacitor issue.
I have quite a few of these hampton bay fans, they're quite excellent. Quiet, move tons of air, and just keep going and going. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Wow amazing totorial Boss. ANd since the capacitor was in the light kit this configuation is alot easier than when you have to do it on the ladder as you just did the replacement on the worktable. I enjoyed the video and look forward for more to come😎🤠
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for stopping by!
really great video very straight to the point glad you were able to fix this fan these were pretty solid fans back in the 2000's I believe the blades were hand carved as claimed in a catalog i have dated about 2008.
Yes, it would be a shame to toss a fan that can be so easily repaired... so I figured I'd share! Thank you for watching.
Great video, thank you! Explained a lot about buying the correct capacitor. Beautiful fan, by the way!
I'm glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for all your detailed information!
You are quite welcome, and thanks for watching!
Hi mine says 5 ur 4 uf 4 uf 250volt to 300 volt 105c can I put one that’s 5uf 4.5uf 4 uf 250volt 70c? Does the voltage matter?
If you are asking if it's ok to replace a 105°C 300v cap with a 70°C 250v capacitor, I'd say no... as the temp rating is not as sturdy as the original. The 250v vs. 300v would be ok if it's US 120v powered, but not if Euro (220-230v) power. For temp and voltage, the replacement must have ratings that are equal to or exceed the original ratings, do not use if either rating is less than the original.
@@halfmoontechlabsI don’t put mine outside so isn’t it ok?
@@That_inflatable_guy123 Based on the questions that you are asking, I recommend that you have a licensed electrician take a look at it, and not attempt to do this yourself.
GREAT VIDEO I UNDERSTOOD EVERYTHING WELL.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Thanks tons. I've tried this before but likely miswired by matching wire colors rather than matching capacitance...Doh!
Yeah, the color codes are not always the same. Thanks for watching!
Great job!
Thanks for watching!
That's a Hampton Bay Antigua Plus. "DON'T THROW AWAY YOUR OLD CEILING FAN!" a contractor at a coffee shop threw out a fan that was spinning really slowly, and to make it worse, he did it without owner's permission (the contractor also threw away wall switch plates that were just removed for painting). I trash picked it and replaced the capacitor, spins fast again.
Yes, I always keep an eye on what contractors are tossing (both at work and at home ;) as they either don't have time to take the risk of attempting a repair that is not guaranteed, or are in the "it's not my money" camp... and just want to hit and run and get that check, lol. Thanks for tuning in and commenting!
@@halfmoontechlabs Yeah. The one I got, I don’t think it was suddenly struck by lightning, the capacitor just got bad over time. I remember when it used to be really fast and after replacing the capacitor it went really fast again.
Also there was a time I got a free ceiling fan which was advertised as working. It was sitting in storage for years. When I first tested it, the motor wouldn’t even start. Replaced the capacitor and it works well again other than bearing noise, so I went ahead and replaced the bearings and now it’s super silent.
I havea question. I bought the same fan about 15yrs ago (bedroom) , love it. About 6yrs ago bought another same Hampyon Bay 56" Antigua fan (living room) ( just like the other fan I have / just like yours) The 1st fan I bought spins VERY fast on high...But the newer fan does not spin nearly as fast / nowhere close. Could there be a problem with the capacitor ? I love these fans , just wish the one in my living room would spin as fast as the older one. Thanks
The values on capacitors can be quite "squishy"... to put it nicely. The values can deviate 20% or more for some (defined as "tolerance" on some), and age has an effect on capacitance as well as a something called ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance), which can fool you into thinking the cap is still good if you just measured the capacitance. This is why if in doubt, check the ESR value too if you have a parts checker like the one in the video, if not, you could just change it anyway to see if it improves... if no big change, at least you now have a spare! Thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thanks for your reply. I do not have a parts checker like yours. A little FYI , the slower fan was that way from new. Both fans do operate with all 3 speeds ( never paid much attention to the lower speeds..just the High speed. If I were to remove the light kits to look at the capacitors on each fan/ and if they happen to have different numbers/ and values...would I create a problem by installing a capacitor with the numbers/values from the faster fan into the slower fan ?...Would I damage the slower fan ?
What a great tutorial! I think I have a newer Hampton fan... but I could NOT for the life of me find the right screw to loosen the box!! My Phillips screwdriver (with the diamond-shaped head) almost stripped the screw before I realized the screw in the fan box is cross-shaped! Is there a name for the type of screwdriver I need to fit this? Or does anyone know the bit size (number) I need? I have 3 packs of them and NONE are the right shape. Please help... I am no handy woman.
I wish I could upload a pic.😞
When you say "diamond" shaped, do you mean a square hole in the center of the screw that may appear diamond shaped when turned at a 45° angle? I ask, because the "cross" shaped one sounds more like a proper Phillips the way you've described it. Flat blades and Phillips screws are typically used in many items, but in electrical work there is a variation used that actually is a square hole (there are different size square holes too, just to keep it fun ;), and if you don't commonly do electrical work, you may never see one in the wild. If I had to guess, you have somehow acquired a square driver, and confused it for a Phillips, which has a "plus sign" or a "cross" like profile when you view the end. Most likely the screws will be Phillips type, unless an electrician substituted another type. Anecdotally, there are also "Allen" screws, which have a hexagonal hole in the center, versus square, which require (drum roll please...) an "Allen" driver. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thanks for replying! So I have a common Phillips screwdriver tool that I used around the house to loosen and remove screws with ease a zillion times over. It's the SCREW in the fan that I'm realizing is not a normal screw... imagine a regular screw with a common circular-shaped head except it has the shape of a cross embedded into it... at first glance it appeared to be a common screw until I looked closely (after I noticed my Phillips screwdriver tool was starting to strip the screw). That's when I realized I needed a very different tool, like a wratchet with a bit that matches that weird screw? Can I email you a pic of the screw? Bet you'd be able to identify it right away. The shape doesn't sound like an Allen tool... but maybe it is! Hoping you can help. I need to get that fan capacitor replaced because the fan is giving me only 1 slow speed.😩
@@rootclinic9268 Ah, well there are "cross type" screws, and some are just 2 milled slots that at first glance look like a Phillips, but actually just use a flat blade in either slot. If you go to Wikipedia and do a search for "List of screw drives".... scroll down and look for "Cross" type screws, and see if this answers your question. I'd post the link, but RUclips can be funny about that, lol. Good luck, and thanks again for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs I totally get your hesitation to post a link. I'll check it out and thanks for your help.
@@halfmoontechlabs I found it using the search terms you provided to find the Wikipedia article!! It's a torque-set cruciform screw drive! Like whuh?? Apparently it's a special tamper-proof resistant screw. Ummm WHY did they use that on a... ceiling fan.😒 LOL. I'll pick up or oder the torque bit to fit my ratchet.
Here's the Wiki explanation for anyone who encounters this odd-ball rare screw.
"Torq-set is a cruciform screw drive used in torque-sensitive applications. The Torq-set head is similar in appearance to a Phillips drive in that it has a cross with 4 arms. In Torq-set however, the lines are offset from each other, so they do not align to form intersecting slots across the top of the head."
THANKS @halfmoontechlabs!!!
That was a great tutorial. Well done! I have a question: how do you lubricate this fan? I think mine may need some maintenance.
Thanks for watching! I have not had to lubricate mine yet, but if it's like many other "permanently lubricated" motors (that do eventually need to be lubricated), it would require tearing into the fan a bit deeper to expose or gain access to the exposed surface of the bearings, and then dribble some 3-in-1 (or similar light oil) in while working it in by rotating the shaft, or motor itself. I found a decent example in another video, and I hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/EhhInGkRrDY/видео.html&ab_channel=ehowathomechannel
I noticed on your old capacitor the voltage for the 3.8 uf is 300v and on the new capacitor it is all 250v. Did this end up working for you? Because I did the same thing on my Hampton bay and it only lasted a few days before my low and medium settings were barely spinning again. High speed setting is still working fine though.
Yes, for US mains voltage standard, 250v is fine for this application. For EU and Asia, probably not. Thanks for watching!
I had this same question! Thanks for asking and thanks for the answer
@@underworldjack4877 Glad I could help, and thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks for posting. One question…the existing capacitor in my fan seems to be glued to the housing. How do I remove it? Thanks!
I'm not sure what adhesive was used in yours, but if you were to take something pointed, and you can deform the adhesive easily (after disconnecting and discharging old cap), it may be possible to gently warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften it enough to remove. Other glues will soften by using a solvent (alcohol or acetone for example), allowing you to gently pull it out and clean it up for replacement. If you do the latter, be sure to do it in a ventilated space, don't get it on anything else, and be sure to thoroughly allow time to completely dry before re-energizing! For some stubborn glues, sometimes the opposite works... throw the assembly in the freezer to cause the glue to become brittle, and then see it you can gently pry it out. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Mine was held in with double sided tape. I just grabbed the capacitor with pliers and moved it back and forth until the tape let go.
question my capacitor doesn't show any damage I have power to pull switch on both sides and fan motor doesn't work what might be the problem. how could I tell if capacitor is bad.
If you hear the motor humming (but not moving) when powered on, and it still spins freely if spun by hand... then motor is probably good, and it's just the capacitor. As I'm assuming that you don't have a meter that measures capacitance, then most folks would just remove and replace the questionable capacitor with a new one of same value(s). They can hold a charge even after powering down for quite a while, so if you know this, and are comfortable working on electrical devices, then fine. If any of this has you scratching your head... then seek help from someone who is knowledgeable with electricity... be safe, and good luck. Thanks for watching!
Capacitor can look brand new and be very very bad. It was a case of one out of two Harbor Breeze Builder’s Series ceiling fan I got from a coffee shop. The capacitor looked brand new but high was less than half of what low speed is supposed to be, and it was barely spinning on medium and not at all on low. Replaced the capacitor, works well again.
@@CeilingFanVideosOnYT Nice... glad it worked, and thanks for watching!
I have 2 capacitors [a 2 wire and a 3 wire], I can't find replacements on line, the mfgr isn't able to help, the mfgr sent me to sources that want $25 each plus $10 shipping. Whaht do suggest ? I can send picture of the 2 capacitors so you can see their uF values.
I found mine at Amazon, under a vendor called HQRP. Just look for "ceiling fan capacitor" under this vendor or just a general Amazon search, and you'll find a ton of choices. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@halfmoontechlabs
Thank you for this information, I also have looked on Amazon. The HQRP supplier is a good source. However, I have 2 separate capacitors with different uF ratings. One cap is prob START the other is RUN. I have not been able to find a 2 wire [red wire and white wire] rated at 4uF with or a 3 wire [brown, purple gray wires] with 6uF ratings. I see a lot of capacitors with 5 wires but don't think i should try to use on of them. So basically I am at a loss.
@@roydunham3384 Sometimes if the there are say, 2 black wires, they can be in fact the same common wire, just internally connected to allow for ease of installation. I can't directly exchange advice or emails with viewers on electrical questions, so I recommend taking the fan or it's capacitors to a local hardware store (a real hardware store) and ask them in person, as they should have someone knowledgeable with electrical on staff. Or, pay the vendor you contacted the $25 plus shipping if you get stuck. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
Thank you sir ..👍
Thank YOU for watching!
Does the temperature matter?
I'm guessing you are referring to the capacitor life as it relates to temperature. Yes, capacitors have temperature ratings too (not always listed), but they generally perform fine in spaces where people live... but your mileage may vary depending on just how hot it gets... higher than rated temperatures typically chip away at longevity like most electronic components. Thanks for watching!
Just had a power outage from some idiot hitting a power pole & power was out 5 hours. The power came back & my fan was doing the exact same thing. I did oil it & got it to spin at low speeds but thats all it will do. The Hampton Bay fan we have was in this home 11 years ago when we bought it so it old & I went to look at some new fans & most are low wattage junk made for LEDs with 6-10 Watts per light fixture.
A nearby lightning strike took mine out, but power outages/sags/brownouts etc, can do the same damage to a capacitor. Hope this video helps you repair it, good luck, and thanks for watching!
The lightning zap would have created a temporary over voltage situation causing the cap to short internally therefore causing it to overheat and blister, under voltage would not have done this.
Though I agree that high voltage spikes are more commonly the cause (via perforation of dielectric, leading to internal short), another common cause is excessive heat, especially as caps age and the ESR starts to rise. LOW voltage for excessive periods (especially on highly inductive loads, like a motor) can cause heating (remember power is I²R), because the current spikes abnormally high from continually trying to turn a reluctant motor... power rises, and then the heat, and again, poof goes the cap. Many ways to cook a capacitor, but your point is taken ;) Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
@@halfmoontechlabs certainly, I replaced a cap on a ceiling fan that was beginning to slow down, only had medium-medium-low and was quite noisy too.
The fan quit working and I thought it was the directional switch - wrong. I ordered a capacitor, but am guessing now. How do you measure mF - is that the same as Ohms? How would you distinguish between a faulty pull switch and a capacitor? I can barely hear the motor making a noise, but it does not move at all. Thanks for any advice.
From your description, it does sound like a bad capacitor. Some more advanced multi-meters do have a specific function for testing capacitors, but a large number do not have this capability. Resistance (measured in Ohms) is not the same as capacitance (measured in µF typically in this application). However, if the motor is humming, there is a good chance the switch is ok, or the motor would not be receiving power at all. It also implies that the motor windings are not "open" (burned out to the point of breaking or "opening" the circuit), or again you would not be hearing a hum. Good chance it is a capacitor, and also good that they are very inexpensive. Simply replace it wire for wire with a like type (I go over this in the video), and there is a good probability that it will work! Be safe though, kill the breaker to the fan first, and discharge the capacitor (short the leads together carefully) before handing any of the bare wires by hand. If any of this does not make sense, or you are unsure in any way, I suggest that you consult an electrician, or friend that has electrical experience before proceeding!!! Good luck, and thanks for watching... I hope this helps!
@@halfmoontechlabs Thank you....
nice
Thanks!
Me:That a Hampton bay antigua
Correct! Thanks for watching.