I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back. Great video. Thanks.
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke! So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!! Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate! Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
Two years on and this info is still useful so worth all of your effort. Why I say that is because back in February I took my GS for its MOT and the guy spotted I had used these pads and said exactly what you said they wear the discs out so avoid them. Little did he know that I had already brought the same pads for the front ready to fit when I needed to. So ever since still not needing to fit them they have laid in my garage and I have even thought of not fitting them and buying OE pads but now given your wise words I wont bother so you've saved me some money from my pension. I might even be able to buy my wife a Christmas present now ha ha !Thanks again.
hi Ted, yes they do bite harder on the disc, and that inevitably leads to increased wear, but brakes are for stopping, and the EBC sintered pads are undeniably better at stopping.. i guess we have to make a choice, if we want killer brakes that stop you effortlessly, then there is a cost.. it depends if you, as a rider, focus on performance or economy aye... ! Thanks for your feedback mate.. have a good weekend.. Del.
Another great video Dell. I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
I caught the comment you made about earning our trust as viewers, and how we ask questions accordingly. It's true in my book. I have a '16 DL650A VStrom. I have almost 19,000 miles and am getting ready to replace the front sprocket again, based on your advice in the video you made. Your advice is practical and makes sense. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Oh, and thanks to Penny and her great camera work!
Thanks Bryan, I'll be sure to pass on your message, that will make her day! Good luck with your sprocket change, hope it goes well and thanks for your kind support mate...
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
Great timing. Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out. Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice. Thanks very much.
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
Definitely bud I will keep In touch. I got the job done no problem whatsoever thanks to your answers. I’m almost embarrassed how simple it was lol. Keep it up you definitely are very easy to follow n I like that you show all the steps and not just before and after like a lot of the vids out there. Hey if you ever make it here I’ll be happy to show you around some beautiful spots right outside the city. If you ever come across an FZ8 yammi please do some videos on whatever Work you do to it. Cheers bud.
Thanks for invite, and careful what you wish for, we do have a firm plan to visit America when we can clear the decks and get past the working commitments for a while, we have some very dear friends who live in Michigan, many wonderful people also we've made contact with in America over YT, so we've been kicking a plan around for a long while of how best to do it, maybe an RV and tour round, but we'd wanna ride, so maybe a big touring bike - who knows, but it's on the list buddy and we will definitely let you know !
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained. Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring. Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike. I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :) You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe.. Keep it up!
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks. When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
Just an update from today Del: I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:) Prep for painting start tomorrow!:) Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish! Can't wait! Keep up with the good videos Del! Cheers Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
Yet again I have learned something new. Sure, I could have gone to Wikipedia to learn what "sintered" means but you explained it so well... Another great job, Del and Penny!
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention . Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!] Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings. Merci Patron.................
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
I know its bad but ive never used a torque wrench, no bolts ever come loose and non snapped, a basic feel for the size of the nut/bolt has worked for me. But if it was a large engine with critical limits i would buy one :) perhaps ha ha :)
If you've been at it long enough you do get a feel for them, but these days with more critical settings and specs on machinery, it might pay to treat yourself, if nothing else, that peace of mind is quite comforting!
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
Hi Del, I'm a new subscriber to your channel after many recommendations from The Missenden Flyer. Love what I've seen so far. Great content and well presented. Keep up the good work... 👍
Thank you Gareth, and welcome aboard my friend, ill be working a little more in the spring with TMF to make some cross vlog videos on each others bikes.. it wont be serious, a lot of leg pulling i imagine, but it will be fun thats for sure.. Thanks for jumping aboard mate, and keep in touch, all the best.. Del.
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Sorry about the unorganized questions! I was just shooting out what came to mind last second. I’ll be installing the pads in an hour or so and they are the HH EBC copper sintered front pads. I’m going to use your method moon. I’ll just clean the pins but not lube them. Oh one question lol I promise. Will the brake Kleen Work as well as the soap n water? I notice a lot of guys using contact cleaner but didn’t think it will make a big difference. I couldn’t pass up getting my last use of front pads today in Nyc since it’s beautiful out. 52 degrees is like summer when ya ride all year round lol.
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Damn right they do... and you'll find they dont even need the usualy 50 miles running in period before they start to bite....you have better braking than before right after you pull away.. they'll impress you with the improvement in feel and power.. let us know what you think after you've ridden with them a bit..?
Moonfleet41 You was on the money recommending these! I am well impressed, such a improvement. I also love the slight "hissing" sound they give off when braking.
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
I installed the Sintered HH pads on my Rocket 3 and didn't like them at all. Noisy, grabby and I could visibly see the scratching of the disc. They were some of the strongest braking I have ever had but didn't like the other issues. Replaced with OEM grade and all was better.
Colin Kessler These are all things I've said against sintered pads in the past, they will eat your discs and they do take some getting used to, but I guess for some people braking efficiency is their first concern, specially on a 12ton bike, like a Rocket3... the OEM pads are always more than adequate and as with all things in life, there's always an up-grade if you want it ... thanks for watching!
I'm learning a lot from your videos mate, thanks a lot! Great to see you guys are local to Bournemouth as well :-) Needed some new brake pads and this video has swayed me to get a set of these.. Cheers.
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO.... 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
Great Trevor good to meet you! On the page I’m under the alias T FZ Rida. Feel free to post any videos you want on my group page as well. A lot of my members will be glad to hear from a knowledgeable mechanic. Tosh is my real name. Cheers 🍻
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential! Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
Hey Del! Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :) Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
Cheers fellah, they make these for Harleys too and with the often tardy brakes on Harleys, you'll be amazed at how these pads will transform your bike!
I chose EBC double H sintered pads for an FZ6 Yamaha that was ready for new pads. There was a dramatic performance over the stock pads. Make sure you buy EBC or rebutable brands. I tried a knock off cheap ebay brand that was "HH Sintered" and they were awful....worse than stock. When I sold the bike the gentleman contacted me to tell me how impressed he was with the brakes.
Just realised why I hadn't been getting your vids up Del, I was unsubscribed to your channel, no ide how that happened. I got a lot of catching up to do mate this was the last one I watched. Sham we didn't have much time to catch up yesterday, but hopefully we will hav more time at Beaulieu. Gave the bike a bit more RPM on the way home.
Gray Viper Hi Geoff, yeah we did wonder, we saw the sub pop in ! Am so sorry we never got a chance to have a good look round the Versys on Sunday, it was just manic, it's always irritating at these shows, with so many of us there, we never get a proper chance to chat to anyone for very long before something else grabs your attention... we never even got time to just stroll round the bikes and look at them all ! So yeah, Beaulieu will be perfect, we'll come up and meet you the night before for a shandy ! See you soon mate
Hi Mick... that can be dangerous, if you havent cleaned the caliper out with a bit of brake cleaner to get the crud off the exposed piston walls first...then you ram all that dirt into the seals when you push them right back....by all means drop them out, clean the caliper, THEN put the old pads back in and lever them right back....but NOT while they're dirty..!
Hi del can you do a video on the best bike for all round work horse I had vstrom 650 that did fore hundred thousand km on it k7 this bike is still going I sold it to a polish guy and he has had it to Poland its un believable. The tiger that you have is along the same lines
I can't really do a video like that cos I wouldn't know where to start, any modern bike these days will go round the world, the average Triumph Triple will do a quarter million with the right care and we know of a Harley Tour Glide 1340 Evo that did 400k in two laps round the world... and never got stripped below the base gaskets! It's all about how you look after them and how you ride them these days!
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've never added grease and never had squeaky breaks, surely sintered pads are slightly porous could it not be possible for grease to seep through the pad? I know moto gp and superbikes don't use grease on there brakes..... Apart from that I've learnt a huge amount with your vids and always take a look when I'm working on my bike.
I think it's important to lose the connection with the word "Grease" in the case of this Copper based product it's a misnomer because that implies a lubricant, and this is an antiseize compound, designed to provide a non ferrous barrier between metals and inhibit corrosion, and in fact it is detrimental to use it as a lubricant between two surfaces that will slide across each other, it will then act as an aggregate and erode them. In the old fashioned and very common practice of using a small wipe of Copper Slip on the BACK of a brake pad it acts as no more than a damper to absorb high frequency vibration that leads to a squeal, only use it if your brakes squeal, because that all it's for, a vibration inhibitor, Brake these days tend not to squeal, but with older bikes it was very common, hence why so many younger and less experience riders get their pants in a bunch over it, because they simply dont understand it..and some people will naturally confront what they don't understand and no mate.. it will not "seep through" your brake pad, what ever the porosity of the lining material, they have a solid steel backing.!!!
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
nice instructions. . I would have used a little brake fluid on a clean cloth to wipe the pistons, then some red rubber grease b4 pushing them in. but that's just me
Hello Del, Congrats again, you guys, for the video, I'm going throught them all one by one, because they're just so good! It's better than any Netflix show, I swear! Tech question: replacing break pads on a '08 Sportster R, would you recommend going for EBC HH or semi-sint - for city riding mostly? Thankns in advance, and again, excellent, excellent videos, brother!
Hi Giacomo, I've used EBC HH copper sintered pads many times on busy commuter bikes and they are wonderful, they have more 'bite' and friction resistance against the disc, so give a little more feedback and generally feel more efficient... naturally, more bite and friction resistance means that copper sintered pads are known to wear discs quicker, but if you're ok with this, then these pads would be an up-grade to your braking efficiency and you should well notice the difference!
I like that "Butter On a Biscuit" thxs 4 the video copper is softer thas the disk metal, souds good 4 me... "Think AHead" another lesson again! LOL (NRN)
Great video ,very helpful considering I was unsure whether to use organic (more feel allegedly ) or sintered...you helped me decide...I'm going to do the rear pads on my sprint st 955i 1999, amateur mechanic!....seems tight to get to caliper bolts....remove chain guard? any advice much apprehiated
Hi Ian, its often the case that you have to take things off to get to other things... if you can sent a picture, maybe use out Facebook link, and ill see if i can advise buddy... !!
Del, you should open your own MC garage/repaishop/school ffs ..even for guy like me who's english language is like 4 cylinder engine but just 2 of those is running att follow u is easy as hell ...I can't agree more on aemonn colley comment below... ewesome explanations and vids !!!! keep up the good work .cheers
+Vito GanjaKid Hi Vito... thanks mate, you are very kind! I would love to have a motorcycle school, but setting up a business is a nightmare and if people had to pay for it, I guess they could take their bike to the dealer to be fixed lol ! And also You Tube is great because it reaches people all around the world.. we have had many contacts tonight from South America, Columbia, Mexico, Brazil, etc., and we could not do that with a local bike shop... you keep watching, we'll keep making videos!
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing. With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to. With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
Thank you for all your videos. I like it how you show us to do these maintenance things and also tell us the whole reason behind it and how it works. Question. I did a complete overhaul of the front brake with new seals, rotor, fluid and these pads. I don't have any binding anymore since the wheel spins multiple rounds with ease, but it does make this scraping noise. Will this go away once I put some miles on the new pads and rotor?
Hi mate, the scraping noise you describe, sometimes described as a 'rushing' or 'hissing' sound, is endemic of the copper pads... they have tiny copper flakes in the pad material, so by that nature, you're hearing a metal to metal interface (albeit a very soft metal against a very hard metal... so that the correct part wears)... it will reduce as time goes on, but there will always be that characteristic 'skish' sound as you brake... if it really bothers you, you could switch to the organic pads, which won't do it!
Moonfleet41 Thank you for the fast reply! The sound is also there when there is no brake applied. The wheel however is spinning very well so it doesn't really bind. Is that normal as well?
sebassiehihi Yes, very normal Sir, the pads only run about 2500thou off the disc surface, they are not precision spaced but merely float losely on pins, so there will inevitably be a small area of contact where the pad touches at some point, but as long as that touch is not under pressure, it will not lead to waer or over-heating!
Hello Delboy, I´d like to thank you for your effort to give us enough knowledge, hints and help on how to do things ourselves. It´s been great to deal with the maintenace of my Tiger now. well, as for this vídeo, I biught the brake pads but could not find the loctite stick in my country so far. I still haven´t received the pads, and I can probably ride my bike for a while before cjanging them. But I wanted do apply that product too, as you showed in the vídeo. The question is, is there a similar product in the Market, of a diferente brand? I found Motul chain grease (White), but I think it´s another thing, and application. I was wondering, lol, could you send that to Brazil, by sedex or any other carrier? Regards, Carlos.
Hi Caco, good to hear from you and glad the videos have helped you out! Good luck with the brake pad change, you don't need to apply the loctite if your brakes don't squeal, this product is a precaution you can take to prevent brake squeal, but if yours don't do that, you don't need to do that, just change the pads when they arrive and am sure all will be well... hope that helps, best of luck with your projects, let us know how it goes, all the best, Del
That's a good idea mate, it has been that long now, and it's a great helmet... I was also looking for something to review, so perhaps, I'll chuck that up this week if I get time!
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
Hi Terry...(coolest nickname every BTW), its the most asked question on sintered pads, "dont they wear the discs quicker"....yes they do...if you hoon them like a race rider....but you'll notice a huge improvement in powe and bite...so you just brake lighter day to day anf the wear is then the same....with the one difference that if you need sudden stoppage...they'll stand you on yer nose..lol
Thanks dude. I've jus bought my first big bike and currently doing a million tests to get my licence so your teaching me all the things I'll be needing for future decisions and for that I thank you and of course Penny 👍
Terry 'Turbotez' Grainger Nice one Tez... and bloody good luck on the test... your first task today is to join us on the forum... here's a link;- bikers.boards.net/ intorduce yourself on the saction named "introduce yourself" (we like to keep it simple..!) and get posting.. you'll be assured of a warm welcome and make lots of new mates.... see you there mate... Del.
Hi Del & Penny - hope your both well - great little vid as always, i know that my dad used to slightly rough up his pads when he replaced them, stating that it was like " bedding them in ". Is this something from days gone by or can this be done on todays pads? have fun keep safe -- cheers Nige.
Hi Nige, not really needed on copper pads, as they'll soon bed themselves in to the discs, and the more expensive pads, such as greens and reds, they have a painted coating hat is designed to help bed them in.... technology has moved on a bit I guess!
Anytime I’m telling ya! Just give a heads up so , we can set up a nice run for it. Keep an eye on NYC Gotham Riders on Facebook. Not to plug it but that is my group and you will be able to see all the runs planned and past.
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back.
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you.
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke!
So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!!
Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate!
Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
Man, I love your vids! I learn something new every time. Great explanations!
Thanks mate, you're very kind!
Moonfleet41 f
U make great vids my friend.thx a lot for sharing your knowledge
Two years on and this info is still useful so worth all of your effort. Why I say that is because back in February I took my GS for its MOT and the guy spotted I had used these pads and said exactly what you said they wear the discs out so avoid them. Little did he know that I had already brought the same pads for the front ready to fit when I needed to. So ever since still not needing to fit them they have laid in my garage and I have even thought of not fitting them and buying OE pads but now given your wise words I wont bother so you've saved me some money from my pension. I might even be able to buy my wife a Christmas present now ha ha !Thanks again.
hi Ted, yes they do bite harder on the disc, and that inevitably leads to increased wear, but brakes are for stopping, and the EBC sintered pads are undeniably better at stopping.. i guess we have to make a choice, if we want killer brakes that stop you effortlessly, then there is a cost.. it depends if you, as a rider, focus on performance or economy aye... ! Thanks for your feedback mate.. have a good weekend.. Del.
Another great video Dell.
I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
haha, I know what you mean... it just ain't funny when you get to our age, grovelling round on your knees !
I caught the comment you made about earning our trust as viewers, and how we ask questions accordingly. It's true in my book. I have a '16 DL650A VStrom. I have almost 19,000 miles and am getting ready to replace the front sprocket again, based on your advice in the video you made. Your advice is practical and makes sense. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Oh, and thanks to Penny and her great camera work!
Thanks Bryan, I'll be sure to pass on your message, that will make her day! Good luck with your sprocket change, hope it goes well and thanks for your kind support mate...
Don`t forget to pump the brake at the end to push the pads into position.
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
Great timing.
Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out.
Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice.
Thanks very much.
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
Thanks Richard for your kind words.. and beautiful bike you've got there as well... roll on summer eh!
Definitely bud I will keep In touch. I got the job done no problem whatsoever thanks to your answers. I’m almost embarrassed how simple it was lol. Keep it up you definitely are very easy to follow n I like that you show all the steps and not just before and after like a lot of the vids out there. Hey if you ever make it here I’ll be happy to show you around some beautiful spots right outside the city. If you ever come across an FZ8 yammi please do some videos on whatever Work you do to it. Cheers bud.
Thanks for invite, and careful what you wish for, we do have a firm plan to visit America when we can clear the decks and get past the working commitments for a while, we have some very dear friends who live in Michigan, many wonderful people also we've made contact with in America over YT, so we've been kicking a plan around for a long while of how best to do it, maybe an RV and tour round, but we'd wanna ride, so maybe a big touring bike - who knows, but it's on the list buddy and we will definitely let you know !
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained.
Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring.
Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike.
I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :)
You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe..
Keep it up!
Thanks mate, I'm changing my pads now and that was a top advice. Cheers Jim in OZ
Great explanation of the compounds Del, you are making good use of that lift. :)
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks.
When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Great video Del. I've used EBC HH on every bike i've owned. Awesome stopping power and i've never 'eaten' the discs as some people claim.
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
Your videos are much clearer to see the detail of what you are doing now that you have it lift table...... The downside is now I want one too!
Ha ha, thanks Jeff....im afraid they are rather catching....i cant think how i would ever want to work down on the floor again.. !
Just an update from today Del:
I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:)
Prep for painting start tomorrow!:)
Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish!
Can't wait!
Keep up with the good videos Del!
Cheers
Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
Just put these on my cruiser looking forward to giving them a go
Yet again I have learned something new. Sure, I could have gone to Wikipedia to learn what "sintered" means but you explained it so well... Another great job, Del and Penny!
Thanks John, simple stuff aye, and really appreciate your kind support.. D&Px
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention .
Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!]
Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
+eamonn colley Thanks Eamonn, glad you enjoy the videos, you're very kind... ride safe mate !
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings.
Merci Patron.................
Cheers for in the info fella, looking forward to seeing the new wheels :)
I love it when I actually learn stuff. I'm glad I subscribed. Thanks, WEGGY ZZR, for pointing me in the right direction.
You're most welcome mate and welcome aboard... that Weggy is a proper top fellah!
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Excellent vid Del. I believe I now know what brakes I"m putting on the bike next time.
Cheers brother, go for it, you'll be amazed at the improvement!
Great vids thanks. Most important step, pump pedal or lever to get pads back in contact with the disk. Can be very embarrassing if you forget.
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
Good plan, can't beat sintered pads!
Yeah that's what I used for my Bandit when I changed mine. Was told they are the best for Suzuki Bandits on the Forums :)
Cool vid,,, thanks for the info about the pad rating and explaining about them,,learnt a lot. Keep them coming
Cheers Ian, simple stuff and it's always better to know the facts...!
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
Ayp Bazza, you know what they say, 'cheap ain't good, and good ain't cheap' ! (but actually, these are still quite reasonable at £23 a pair)
Great video, I need new brakes, and someone recommended these to me, now I know why. Thanks for the education.
I know its bad but ive never used a torque wrench, no bolts ever come loose and non snapped, a basic feel for the size of the nut/bolt has worked for me.
But if it was a large engine with critical limits i would buy one :) perhaps ha ha :)
If you've been at it long enough you do get a feel for them, but these days with more critical settings and specs on machinery, it might pay to treat yourself, if nothing else, that peace of mind is quite comforting!
Great videos, very clear explanation of the topic and also extremely good camera work by Penny !!
Thanks buddy, I'll be sure to pass your kinds words to her...cheers
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
Hi Del, I'm a new subscriber to your channel after many recommendations from The Missenden Flyer. Love what I've seen so far. Great content and well presented. Keep up the good work... 👍
Thank you Gareth, and welcome aboard my friend, ill be working a little more in the spring with TMF to make some cross vlog videos on each others bikes.. it wont be serious, a lot of leg pulling i imagine, but it will be fun thats for sure.. Thanks for jumping aboard mate, and keep in touch, all the best.. Del.
another great video del see you next sunday cant wait whats next for the garage
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Moonfleet41 sounds like a busy week for you see you next week
Sorry about the unorganized questions! I was just shooting out what came to mind last second. I’ll be installing the pads in an hour or so and they are the HH EBC copper sintered front pads. I’m going to use your method moon. I’ll just clean the pins but not lube them. Oh one question lol I promise. Will the brake Kleen Work as well as the soap n water? I notice a lot of guys using contact cleaner but didn’t think it will make a big difference.
I couldn’t pass up getting my last use of front pads today in Nyc since it’s beautiful out. 52 degrees is like summer when ya ride all year round lol.
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Hi again buddy, with the contact cleaner, I've never used that myself, if I'm gonna use a spray, I go with 'brake and carb cleaner' which is made for the job... it dries away really quickly and leaves no residue, good luck with it... it's great to hear from you all the way from NYC, it sounds great there, warm and sunny... I watch videos of guys riding round the city and it's a place I'd love to visit ! Keep in touch, always be good to hear from you !
Thank you very much. You guys are very informative. love it. Keep up the fantastic work
just put in some SBS ones few months ago the front and rear are both really good.
Nothing like a pad up-grade eh mate!
Another good video Del, and I now know what the ratings mean..I did think HH where for race type brakes...everyday is a school day!!
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Thanks Blue, simple nerdy stuff, but nonetheless, interesting!
Just ordered these a couple of days ago, so good to know they get you recommendation.
Damn right they do... and you'll find they dont even need the usualy 50 miles running in period before they start to bite....you have better braking than before right after you pull away.. they'll impress you with the improvement in feel and power.. let us know what you think after you've ridden with them a bit..?
Will do!
Moonfleet41 You was on the money recommending these! I am well impressed, such a improvement. I also love the slight "hissing" sound they give off when braking.
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
Great explanations, including the etymology of the word 'sinter'. Nice vid!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated !
I installed the Sintered HH pads on my Rocket 3 and didn't like them at all. Noisy, grabby and I could visibly see the scratching of the disc. They were some of the strongest braking I have ever had but didn't like the other issues. Replaced with OEM grade and all was better.
Colin Kessler These are all things I've said against sintered pads in the past, they will eat your discs and they do take some getting used to, but I guess for some people braking efficiency is their first concern, specially on a 12ton bike, like a Rocket3... the OEM pads are always more than adequate and as with all things in life, there's always an up-grade if you want it ... thanks for watching!
I'm learning a lot from your videos mate, thanks a lot! Great to see you guys are local to Bournemouth as well :-) Needed some new brake pads and this video has swayed me to get a set of these.. Cheers.
Cheers buddy...are you local too then..?
Moonfleet41 Yes, just in Charminster
as always great and informative video
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO....
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
Great Trevor good to meet you! On the page I’m under the alias T FZ Rida. Feel free to post any videos you want on my group page as well. A lot of my members will be glad to hear from a knowledgeable mechanic. Tosh is my real name. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Tosh, ill keep an eye on it and keep in touch.. thanks again for your support sir.. all the best.. Del.
I'd also use a small amount of locktite on the caliper mounting bolts
🔴🔴🔴excellent explanation... just ordered front and rear pads.🔴🔴🔴
Great info well explained cheers matey.....
Really good video, you are a Natural infront of the camera...:) you shuld be on TV!!
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
Good vid Del, great info buddy, most appreciated, RSM8.
Thanks Skeggs, that's very kind of you mate!
Nice video,you can use the old pad to move the caliper piston back together .
You can indeed, and its handy to get round the slider bracket as it fits inside it..
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential!
Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
Hey Del!
Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :)
Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
Moonfleet41 Great! Thanks alot for the fast answer, helped me alot. I def go for the HH ones! Cheers, Top
Nice one Del, very useful info.
Ayup Kiwi! Good to hear to hear from you mate... will we be seeing you at Fowlers next weekend then??
Come on! Gimmie a brake!! ... Get it? LOL! .... A little Delboy humor for you. ;-)
Ayup Jeff... the wheels for the Scrambler have arrived....s'gonna look brutal !
Great work and great vid,,, !!! Good info......
Ride Safe,,,,
Cheers fellah, they make these for Harleys too and with the often tardy brakes on Harleys, you'll be amazed at how these pads will transform your bike!
FTI.... Use the old brake pad to push in the caliper piston... goes in evenly and won't damage the piston... Cheers !!!
I chose EBC double H sintered pads for an FZ6 Yamaha that was ready for new pads. There was a dramatic performance over the stock pads. Make sure you buy EBC or rebutable brands. I tried a knock off cheap ebay brand that was "HH Sintered" and they were awful....worse than stock. When I sold the bike the gentleman contacted me to tell me how impressed he was with the brakes.
Just realised why I hadn't been getting your vids up Del, I was unsubscribed to your channel, no ide how that happened. I got a lot of catching up to do mate this was the last one I watched. Sham we didn't have much time to catch up yesterday, but hopefully we will hav more time at Beaulieu. Gave the bike a bit more RPM on the way home.
Gray Viper Hi Geoff, yeah we did wonder, we saw the sub pop in ! Am so sorry we never got a chance to have a good look round the Versys on Sunday, it was just manic, it's always irritating at these shows, with so many of us there, we never get a proper chance to chat to anyone for very long before something else grabs your attention... we never even got time to just stroll round the bikes and look at them all ! So yeah, Beaulieu will be perfect, we'll come up and meet you the night before for a shandy ! See you soon mate
Why didn't you clean those brake cups of the road grime before pushing them back in.?
?
I use a "tyrespoon" in between the old pads to push the pistons back in before changing the pads.
Hi Mick... that can be dangerous, if you havent cleaned the caliper out with a bit of brake cleaner to get the crud off the exposed piston walls first...then you ram all that dirt into the seals when you push them right back....by all means drop them out, clean the caliper, THEN put the old pads back in and lever them right back....but NOT while they're dirty..!
Moonfleet41 Good point! Never tought about that.
Hi del can you do a video on the best bike for all round work horse I had vstrom 650 that did fore hundred thousand km on it k7 this bike is still going I sold it to a polish guy and he has had it to Poland its un believable. The tiger that you have is along the same lines
I can't really do a video like that cos I wouldn't know where to start, any modern bike these days will go round the world, the average Triumph Triple will do a quarter million with the right care and we know of a Harley Tour Glide 1340 Evo that did 400k in two laps round the world... and never got stripped below the base gaskets! It's all about how you look after them and how you ride them these days!
Great info Del, cheers
thanks for great vids I live out in sticks so no help very near
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've never added grease and never had squeaky breaks, surely sintered pads are slightly porous could it not be possible for grease to seep through the pad? I know moto gp and superbikes don't use grease on there brakes..... Apart from that I've learnt a huge amount with your vids and always take a look when I'm working on my bike.
I think it's important to lose the connection with the word "Grease" in the case of this Copper based product it's a misnomer because that implies a lubricant, and this is an antiseize compound, designed to provide a non ferrous barrier between metals and inhibit corrosion, and in fact it is detrimental to use it as a lubricant between two surfaces that will slide across each other, it will then act as an aggregate and erode them. In the old fashioned and very common practice of using a small wipe of Copper Slip on the BACK of a brake pad it acts as no more than a damper to absorb high frequency vibration that leads to a squeal, only use it if your brakes squeal, because that all it's for, a vibration inhibitor, Brake these days tend not to squeal, but with older bikes it was very common, hence why so many younger and less experience riders get their pants in a bunch over it, because they simply dont understand it..and some people will naturally confront what they don't understand and no mate.. it will not "seep through" your brake pad, what ever the porosity of the lining material, they have a solid steel backing.!!!
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
Great Videos and tips! Do you use the copper grease on both pads or only the one furthest from the pistons?
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
nice instructions. . I would have used a little brake fluid on a clean cloth to wipe the pistons, then some red rubber grease b4 pushing them in. but that's just me
Hello Del,
Congrats again, you guys, for the video, I'm going throught them all one by one, because they're just so good! It's better than any Netflix show, I swear!
Tech question: replacing break pads on a '08 Sportster R, would you recommend going for EBC HH or semi-sint - for city riding mostly?
Thankns in advance, and again, excellent, excellent videos, brother!
Hi Giacomo, I've used EBC HH copper sintered pads many times on busy commuter bikes and they are wonderful, they have more 'bite' and friction resistance against the disc, so give a little more feedback and generally feel more efficient... naturally, more bite and friction resistance means that copper sintered pads are known to wear discs quicker, but if you're ok with this, then these pads would be an up-grade to your braking efficiency and you should well notice the difference!
I like that "Butter On a Biscuit" thxs 4 the video
copper is softer thas the disk metal, souds good 4 me...
"Think AHead" another lesson again! LOL
(NRN)
Great video ,very helpful considering I was unsure whether to use organic (more feel allegedly ) or sintered...you helped me decide...I'm going to do the rear pads on my sprint st 955i 1999, amateur mechanic!....seems tight to get to caliper bolts....remove chain guard? any advice much apprehiated
Hi Ian, its often the case that you have to take things off to get to other things... if you can sent a picture, maybe use out Facebook link, and ill see if i can advise buddy... !!
Del, you should open your own MC garage/repaishop/school ffs ..even for guy like me who's english language is like 4 cylinder engine but just 2 of those is running att follow u is easy as hell ...I can't agree more on aemonn colley comment below... ewesome explanations and vids !!!! keep up the good work .cheers
+Vito GanjaKid Hi Vito... thanks mate, you are very kind! I would love to have a motorcycle school, but setting up a business is a nightmare and if people had to pay for it, I guess they could take their bike to the dealer to be fixed lol ! And also You Tube is great because it reaches people all around the world.. we have had many contacts tonight from South America, Columbia, Mexico, Brazil, etc., and we could not do that with a local bike shop... you keep watching, we'll keep making videos!
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing.
With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to.
With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
Thank you for all your videos. I like it how you show us to do these maintenance things and also tell us the whole reason behind it and how it works. Question. I did a complete overhaul of the front brake with new seals, rotor, fluid and these pads. I don't have any binding anymore since the wheel spins multiple rounds with ease, but it does make this scraping noise. Will this go away once I put some miles on the new pads and rotor?
Hi mate, the scraping noise you describe, sometimes described as a 'rushing' or 'hissing' sound, is endemic of the copper pads... they have tiny copper flakes in the pad material, so by that nature, you're hearing a metal to metal interface (albeit a very soft metal against a very hard metal... so that the correct part wears)... it will reduce as time goes on, but there will always be that characteristic 'skish' sound as you brake... if it really bothers you, you could switch to the organic pads, which won't do it!
Moonfleet41 Thank you for the fast reply! The sound is also there when there is no brake applied. The wheel however is spinning very well so it doesn't really bind. Is that normal as well?
sebassiehihi Yes, very normal Sir, the pads only run about 2500thou off the disc surface, they are not precision spaced but merely float losely on pins, so there will inevitably be a small area of contact where the pad touches at some point, but as long as that touch is not under pressure, it will not lead to waer or over-heating!
Sintered pads great road pad.Excellant braking & long life.Ride safe.
Too right Denis, gonna upgrade to Sintered on the Harley once i chomp through the current ones...which wont be long..lol
Thanks, now sintered and HH makes sense!
Ain't hard is it lol!
so as i live in thailand i should use H not double H no cold weather here.....lol
150F is fairly cold for brakes, just how hot does it get in Thailand? ;
Hello Delboy, I´d like to thank you for your effort to give us enough knowledge, hints and help on how to do things ourselves. It´s been great to deal with the maintenace of my Tiger now. well, as for this vídeo, I biught the brake pads but could not find the loctite stick in my country so far. I still haven´t received the pads, and I can probably ride my bike for a while before cjanging them. But I wanted do apply that product too, as you showed in the vídeo. The question is, is there a similar product in the Market, of a diferente brand? I found Motul chain grease (White), but I think it´s another thing, and application. I was wondering, lol, could you send that to Brazil, by sedex or any other carrier? Regards, Carlos.
Hi Caco, good to hear from you and glad the videos have helped you out! Good luck with the brake pad change, you don't need to apply the loctite if your brakes don't squeal, this product is a precaution you can take to prevent brake squeal, but if yours don't do that, you don't need to do that, just change the pads when they arrive and am sure all will be well... hope that helps, best of luck with your projects, let us know how it goes, all the best, Del
geat vid as always del if i can could i request a quick review video of your roof boxer helmet 7 months on in terms of noise comfort so on
That's a good idea mate, it has been that long now, and it's a great helmet... I was also looking for something to review, so perhaps, I'll chuck that up this week if I get time!
Great video Del!
Cheers Josh..
My rear break is an on off switch, so I use sintered HH front and organic rear..
Good move...
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
Awesome video dude thanks for the education. I really nearly had a question for ya but you covered the disc wear at the end. Cheers dude
Hi Terry...(coolest nickname every BTW), its the most asked question on sintered pads, "dont they wear the discs quicker"....yes they do...if you hoon them like a race rider....but you'll notice a huge improvement in powe and bite...so you just brake lighter day to day anf the wear is then the same....with the one difference that if you need sudden stoppage...they'll stand you on yer nose..lol
Thanks dude. I've jus bought my first big bike and currently doing a million tests to get my licence so your teaching me all the things I'll be needing for future decisions and for that I thank you and of course Penny 👍
Terry 'Turbotez' Grainger
Nice one Tez... and bloody good luck on the test... your first task today is to join us on the forum... here's a link;- bikers.boards.net/ intorduce yourself on the saction named "introduce yourself" (we like to keep it simple..!) and get posting.. you'll be assured of a warm welcome and make lots of new mates.... see you there mate... Del.
Nice one. Got some building of ikea flat pack fun and then I'll be there
Hi Del & Penny - hope your both well - great little vid as always, i know that my dad used to slightly rough up his pads when he replaced them, stating that it was like " bedding them in ". Is this something from days gone by or can this be done on todays pads? have fun keep safe -- cheers Nige.
Hi Nige, not really needed on copper pads, as they'll soon bed themselves in to the discs, and the more expensive pads, such as greens and reds, they have a painted coating hat is designed to help bed them in.... technology has moved on a bit I guess!
Anytime I’m telling ya! Just give a heads up so , we can set up a nice run for it. Keep an eye on NYC Gotham Riders on Facebook. Not to plug it but that is my group and you will be able to see all the runs planned and past.
Thank you so much for the link my friend, ive joined the group, so i can keep in touch.. take care and ride safe over there.. Del.
Glad to watch your video , good info . Thanks
evilmuscle Thank mate, glad you liked it. !