DIY BC Racing BR shock Revalve tutorial - PART 5 (Bilstein internals upgrade)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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PART 5
This video is a DIY step by step tutorial of how to disassemble your BC BR racing shocks for a shock revalving with bilstein shock pistons and parts(BC racing and Bilstein shocks are 46mm inside diameter). This video can also be used for general maintenance of your shocks toi bring them back to life. Instead of buying new BC racing shock cartridges and throwing the older used ones away.
I wrote a fully detailed thread/post at clublexus.com with shock dyno plots to accommodate each shock shim arrangement.
In the thread I also go into mathematical detail on how I came about to revalve the BC racing shock with a bilstein piston, piston band, and a different shim stack arrangement using bilsteins shock revalving manual. the link to that post is listed at the bottom of the description.
The car utilizing these shocks is a 1994 Lexus GS300 1st generation or a Toyota Aristo outside of the USA. This shock disassembly tutorial should apply to all BC racing BR shocks.
This is the BR SERIES!! NOT THE OTHER BC RACING SHOCK SERIES!!
I am no shock/race team expert. I am just a regular guy who loves DIY projects. I plan to make some more vids on how to do the mathematical calculations used to determine what shim arrangement you would need on your shock.
I hope this helps the DIY'ers (Do It Yourself) out there who always wanted to revalve their Taiwanese brand shocks, but never knew where to start.
Full DIY re-valve tutorial here:
I guess youtube does not allow links anymore, so please Google the search term "DIY Shock Revalve parts 1-3"
or
search for "DIY shock revalve clublexus" and you will find the full writeup/tutorial on the clublexus car forum website.
.
Video was shot using a Sony A6000 digital camera.
Part 1
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
Part 2
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
Part 3
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
Part 4
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
Part 5
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
Part 6
• DIY BC Racing BR shock...
For a quicker DIY nitrogen filling ststion, please visit the Diymotofix.com link listed here: www.diymotofix...
Many thanks to diymotofix for posting this on their website and thanks to youtuber Eric Wai for making this link known and giving this great info.
To all diy shock builders...Charge On!
when the needle bent I said NOOO STOP! out loud :) thumbs up from me!
tao l hehe, lol.
You were loosing more psi because each time you pur the needle you pressurize all the hose so part of the pressure go back in the hose and balance between the hose and the shock absorber. Nice video, thank you for showing the BC internals
Federico Di Franco partially yes. I believe the real reason was because that self healing seal takes a second to close after the needle is removed.
I verified this by fillind the shock to even higher psi (300psi) and afterwards the shock still showed that it retained the same psi as when 200 psi was added to shock.
@@majanboo22 may i ask you the diameter of the needle in mm? I have a old coilover set and don't want to spend Money on nitrogen kit and refurbish the internal gaskets because One shock Is not working. Is the needle diameter the same that you can use on soccer balls?
Federico Di Franco a soccer ball needle is slightly bigger in internal diameter. Using a soccer ball needle may create a large piercing in the rubber seal of the shock that will not close. Once that happens, all of your nitrogen will leak out from the shock.
Ebay has 3 needles for $6, and amazn 1 for $6.
I think a big part of that pressure loss when re-measuring internal shock pressure is from the nitrogen coming back out of the shock and filling the entire hose assembly up before the gauge can show a pressure reading. I suspect that if you had a gauge that can read directly off of the shock fill port (without a hose behind it), the pressure loss reading would be much less.
Great observation. You may be totally right on this as it makes sense.
Really impressive DIY, the fact that you did it on your kitchen counter should give all your followers the bravery to attempt it without feeling like it's a daunting task. A couple of things on filling, if you need to hit a target nitrogen charge and don't want to deal with stupid needles anymore, it looks like you can drill out the bottom cap where the self healing rubber seal is located and replace it with a schrader valve. Also here's a link to a DIY no loss nitrogen charging station: www.diymotofix.com/blog/how-to-make-a-shock-fill-tool-and-fill-station
Thank you very much for the compliments and thank you especially for the diymoto schraeder valve filling station web link.
I thought about going the schraeder valve route too, but I couldn’t justify my time for it as I don’t track the car.
But your link is definitely some vital info that can help the masses who want to tinker with their shock setups thank you again.
I will put the link you gave in the comments of the videos.
some of the pressure loss you talk about at 7:40 can be attributed to the gauge actually taking up pressure just to get a reading. its a common problem with shock pumps
Thanks for this as I was wondering if that was the case.
Really enjoyed the series. Very well informed. The issue with the pressure loss is probably mostly attributable to the fact that your hose depressurizes when you pull it out. When you reinsert the needle into the shock, the nitrogen rushes out of the shock to fill the hose. Then when it is removed again, you loose all the volume of the nitrogen that rushed into the hose.
For certain, you probably do loose a few PSI when you pull the needle, but in general you probably don't need to worry about loosing more than 10 PSI when you pull the needle. That said, you may have over pressurized it a bit, but that isn't the end of the world.
Great stuff! Looking forward to more!
Really good videos. I watched all 5. Thanks!
Thank you. I appreciate the input. 👍🏾
I need to get me a broom stick!!! lol thanks for the vid.
No problem. Anytime.
Thanks man this series was very helpful. 5 thumbs up 4 me.
Thank you man. Glad you enjoyed it, and that it was helpful to you. I appreciate the kinds words. Keep your eyes open. I have other various vids to post up, just been super busy.
thanks man :D watched all 5 parts
You are welcome
Ok, a great series of videos, thumbs up!
one question: where do you get the new pistons and shim stacks from ?
Traian Keranov one of the videos I show my written tutorial on clublexus.com on where to get the parts from. It has far more informstion than these disassembly videos. Please google “DIY shock revalve” and that should lead you to the clublexus tutorial with math equations and all.
And please give credit here when showing others on auto message boards.
Many thanks.
Does anyone know where to order gas that he uses?
Can the bottom cover be punched diy 2way
I don’t see why not. But I have not tried this.
@@majanboo22 It would be easier to adjust this way, but I don't know the
piston difference between a 1way Eve and a 2way
have you charged/work on the BC ER coil over kit . if so how do you get the air out of the external reservoir when filling the shock with oil , also dont know if this matters but what should you set the damper and preload to when charging with nitrogen all on soft or hard . the ER series dose not have a sliding piston in the main shock, would the external reservoir be pre set for the right volume of nitrogen .. many thanks Tom
+majanboo22 Thanks for taken the time to respond pal really appreciate it . I will make a
vid next week on the progress of the rebuild , all the best
Where can I get that nitrogen kit to buy?
Google “clublexus diy shock revalve”. There is a long step-by-step tutorial detailing the math, all parts, and everything I created on the clublexus.com car forum(GS300 - 1st Gen section).
Hei hi how much quantity of oil can b filled ?
k avinash
In post # 1 of the clublexus tutorial, it is cited that a BC Racing “RM” type of coilover contains 125ml of shock oil. (Not the common BC racing “BR” Type of shock)
www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a.html#post8783153
Also, This picture from my clublexus tutorial shows the quantity of oil contained in 2 Gatorade bottles.
www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a-2.html#post8905326
Any possibility you’d know where to find the dust seal mine tore and of course bc wants me to buy the whole new dampener
Jakob M I’m not sure, but did you mean you tore a rubber O-Ring seal that is on the all aluminum dust cap?
@@majanboo22 I'm pretty sure we are talking about the same seal. The one that slips around the shaft to protect it from dirt and stuff from getting into the cylinder.
Jakob M Awww man, yes I know what you are talking about. Unfortunately I don’t know where you can get that black inner shaft seal.
You may try and log onto automotive message boards and search their classified forms for use BC coil overs. Or make a Wanted to buy add on that automotive forum online.
Other than that you may be lucky and find a cheap set of two on eBay.
BC used to sell replacement shock inserts for $80 but I’m not sure what they sell them for now.
I’m sorry I couldn’t help you on the Direct source for the wiper seal.
@@majanboo22 Ah okay thanks for the help I'll give it a shot for sure, thanks!
Jakob M Anytime man.
Do you know where I can find the oíl seal uper?
Davis Aguilar
Do you mean upper o-rings(?), or wiper seal?
the only places I can think of that would have the various sealing o-rings are:
-BC RACING (I’m not confident they will sell you only an O-Ring)
-A company called “O-rings and things” in Southern California (san bernardino). Mail them the broken o-ring seal to match.
-your local hydraulic supply shop may be able to match the sealing o-ring up.
Hi, when you add nitrogen, the adjustable nut is soft or hard?
It has been a while since I did the video, but the adjustable nut I believe gets a bit more firm when the shock is pressurized with nitrogen.
What if I use normal air in stead of nitrogen?
@@majanboo22 What if I use normal air in stead of nitrogen?
@@majanboo22 does it work?
@@aod1591 Yes it physically can work, but the issue is that your shock’s damping characteristics may likely change with the temperature.
If its hot outside (or the shock is under heavy use and becomes warm), the shock may act slightly different than when its cold.
form where u are got this nitrogen tank?
You can get the nitrogen tank from ebay. The nitrogen tank is a HPA tank (High Pressure Air - 3,000 psi to 5,000 psi storage limit) and can be bought from amazon.com or online stores on google for $45 - $100 US dollars.
Google “HPA tank”
Is this still your project, or do you gave up?
There are better and easier ways for bleeding this shocks without worriing about the position of the dividor pistons.
Also i can tell, from much work and valving changes on these shocks: the needle adjuster makes everything worse! The setup only will work if you testdrive the car with all adjusters fully closed. Then find out in what direction the next valving has to go and do it.
Next thing are the pistons. You can use the linear pistons, which are in these shocks. They are very good for performance, but the shims have to dialed in with care and much fine tuning. Bilstein preloaded and digressive pistons are much more easy to set up, but you won't get the max. performance (even tire loads) out of it. They are a compromise for handling and comfort. If comfort is one of your goals, then it's okay to use it.
Last is the air pressure. When there is no way for a better valving, you can fine tune this shocks by changing air pressure. This will effect high speed compression and rebound caused by more or less hysteresis (which is always the problem on these shocks without a base valve). More hysteresis isn't good, so you should't go to low with pressure.
Marc D. I am just seeing your post way late, bit I understand your sentiments to the process. And thank you for your input.
The original BC racing stock valve was pretty much good only at the track in my opinion.
On city streets there was definitely a lack in comfort, and also rebound forces had to be very high to get the “performance” lateral grip needed at the track (on darn near perfect flat road surface). This setting was trash on Downtown LA city streets.
After the Bilstein revalve, It was a night and day difference. After applying my mathematical calculations the ride was waay better, and was also comfortable. And if you wanted to change the knob settings for track performance. It was also there.
Please google “DIY shock revalve Clublexus” to see my full scale tutorial and journey on this endeavor.
Also within that post are listed all of my various shock dynos of my shock testing setups as visual graphical proof of the difference between the original Bc racing shock piston setup and the revalved Bilstein setup.
Many thanks for your input here also. I am sure it can help us all.
thats not how to measure the pressure
That is how it was done at the actual BC racing factory in their Manufacturing/Coilover assembly advertisement video.
That is what I saw BC RACING do, when they were filling up the new coilovers with nitrogen.
@@majanboo22 Yes but no, You dont loose much by pulling the needle out , you lose pressure because of your setup... if you fill it and disconnect, thats the real pressure, but when you stick it back in, the pressure goes into your hose, therefore showing the wrong pressure
@@ranxerox10 actually, there is a loss/limit the first time you remove the needle. Due to the material elasticity/strength of the “self closing rubber seal” there is a max limit on the psi pressure the seal can close on and hold back.
When you re-insert the needle (closed and static pressure system) the gauge indicates the given pressure charge in the previously filled shock.
There will be a very slight drop in true reading due to the added volume of the needle and hose.
As in the the equation PV=NRT (initial) vs PV=NRT (remeasure with needle at natural atmosphere).