The purpose of this video is to help educate beginner/hobby welders about weld strength vs. appearance when using smaller hobby welder machines. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing. I'm one of those beginner/hobby welders and my take away is basically the wrong tool for the job. 120v maxed out for 3/8 material? Why is the flux core weld so much stronger than the MIG? How would stick welding compare to MIG at 120V?
I thank you also for showing this. I'm not much of a welder but some days I do good other times what was I think. I use stick and wire at work, some of mine looks great some not so and some of my good welds hold and others break or crack.
Tell tale sign is the sides of the weld are not 'wetting in' which is term known by welders which means the edges are bulging rather than smoothly blending into the parent metal. You can overcome these issues by pre heating or running hotter.
I see the comments all the time on Facebook. People will take one look at a photo of a high production stringer weld that used dual shield or spray, and it's the worst thing they've ever seen, the welder was lazy, didn't know what they're doing, blah blah blah. But as soon as something has little consistent weave lines in it (or worse, a huge row of overlapping tacks), it's automatically a perfect expert level weld. The stack of dimes obsession on the internet is out of control.
A consistent weld is better than a pretty weld. Consistent weld yields the proper penetration. Easy to lay a stack when its just melting the filler, as you aren't also trying to penetrate the product you are welding.
I did a bunch of videos on this exact thing on my channel. 100% running cold settings and stacking dimes to get the look results in poor fusion and very weak welds. Despite a ton of evidence presented in the videos I still had a significant amount of people say that’s simply not the case and say the numerous videos were wrong. To date nobody has provided a sample weld, cut and etch, or settings that will allow for proper fusion with some stack mig settings. Thanks for covering this, the more info out there the better 👍👍
Great video. I have always chamfered plate that is thicker than 1/4". A few moments on the grinder nearly always means better penetration, and I find the entire process faster and more economical when I can get away with a single pass. Thanks for the clinic!
Seeing the first pass and the first weld seam breaking, I was about to write "hey, over here in Europe we use to do some weld prep". But you said it all in the end. Nice demonstration why weld prep is not just annoying work but an absolute necessity. Over here most newer welders are "synergic" machines, setting voltate and wire feed according to the current asked (which is set according to material thickness). One can override the presets, but they're commonly pretty good. If my welds have a hump, it's not the settings, it's myself - the hobby welder. This takes out a lot of completey bollox settings that only generate good looking welds with no penetration. Btw, 3M Cubitron fiber disks are awesome to grind bevels on thick plates before welding. Started to use them a couple weeks back and wished, I would have known about them earlier.
@@6061 The ones I have are called Cubitron II 987C. Got them from Ebay, but it was a French seller, which might not be very attractive outside of Europe. I recently saw in a video on RUclips that there's already a third generation availabe, but I have no first hand experience with them. In my experience, the backup plate also plays a role. Had a pretty soft plate first, but the results haven't been very good when applying decent pressure. 3M of course sells their own backup plate, which I have found working quite well. It doesn't get soft when heating up, like thermoplastic materials would do. So maybe pay attention to that detail if you'd give the disks a try (they won't cost you more than half a kidney 😀) When seeing videos of people using the Cubitron disks to grind a bevel, it's hard to believe that it's not a timelapse. After trying it myself, I was quite pleased, despite the somewhat steep price per disk.
@@6061On Fire Welding uses them and recommends them in a lot of his videos. I think he has an Amazon store and he links them in video descriptions often.
Thanks! Where were you years ago when I was learning while rebuilding a truck? Fortunately the steel I was working with was 1/4. My 110v machine said it could do 3/8 but I thought that was just marketing. I preheated with a small propane torch, and used 3 layers. It came out nice. Shock towers to a truck frame. They've held up.
I'm currently in welding school and my instructor taught us the wip method with gmaw. He pushes not drag. This time we are using Flux core with gas. On the side he giving me a head start on aluminum tig.
Have loved your content over the years. I am not a welder by trade, I do it for fun. I am by trade a Mechanical Designer. Had this been a bracket from a system I designed it would have been a double bevel weld (bevel dependent on material thickness) with at least a 1/16IN gap. I learned early that every design I submitted for stress analysis that had a T-Joint weld was sent back with a required bevel weld, at least on the side of the most stress. For the casual home/small project use, hammering a test piece is fine, but most of the work I did on designs required an accompanying stress report, so we knew who to blame when it failed :)... And you are correct, it does not have to be pretty as long as it is done properly.
Structural commonly uses dual shield, gas shielded flux core wire. Typically a larger wire than solid core wires and much higher voltage and feed rates. Get it set right and it's a quiet hiss. Can achieve insane deposition rates with full pen.
I've been in school for like 6 months now and all these videos have been priceless. Obviously my instructor teaches me a lot but he only uas sonmuch time and when I'm not welding in school it good to look at stuff like this to get an idea of what I'm looking for in my own welds. I'm starting to get quite good at this point. I started with stick and let me tell you it was rough but little hy little I've gotten to a point where I feel pretty comfortable with stick, MIG and even acetylene welding as well as unshielded flux core and dual shiel. I start TIG mext week and im excited for that.
Wow! This was an eye opener! Absolutely epic teaching points. I will remember this forever! Really shows you why the good welders grind in the steel to a 45 angle taper so the wire sticks better. Awesome! Thanks!
That’s also why a lot of pressure vessel piping and thick steel is welded with flux. You get a lot of good penetration and it burns hotter. Used to work for Halliburton myself.
Just glance at ur parameters in the cabinet, the flux column goes a few diameter larger than solid wire if I'm not mistaken, on the metal thickness not wire diameter
Dual shield is the best of both worlds. High productivity and great strength. Shop supervisor got upset too often because customer requirements for welding didn't permit solid wire processes. 100% CO2 with S6 wire in short circuit is brittle..
I'm 45yrs in and my current rig has a water-cooled handpiece and will run 50v/350a at 100% duty cycle. With 1.2mm wire the best weld it does is about an 8mm-9mm fillet, depending on how the grid is doing at the time, so I just stack those on the heavy steel I work with all day. Only time I'll put a pattern in is when I'm copying what's already there.
short circuit mig should never be used on anything that matters over 1/4" thickness. Will is stick two pieces together, yes - is it strong, no. Excellent video Mr6061.
I was going to say you are asking a lot for a 110v/120v machine. I’m going to go out on a limb and say I doubt the specs say it can weld 3/8ths in a single pass on 110/120v, does it say it can weld 3/8ths in a single pass on 240v? If its a Millermatic 211 then 240v 3/8ths is the max size in a single pass (240v.) I think beveling the piece and using it on 240 if you can, if not multiple passes would definitely be the way to go along with beveling the piece you are welding onto the base piece, and even giving it a bit of a preheat if possible, do everything you can to give yourself the best chance of penetrating into the parent metal. You might even be better off using SMAW if that piece absolutley had to stay put.
@@jacksonfevthis. The 110 welders are certainly limited, but they sure have come a long way from the Lincoln Weldpak 100 I had near the turn of the century. You had to preheat 1/8” to get good penetration.
Another benefit to using flux core wire is that it scares away the deer. And by deer I mean the varment standing over your shoulder trying to tell you what is the best way to do your job.
Arc or stick welding is good too for better penetration than solid wire mig, mig spray welding works good too but you have to have a powerful welder and can not run vertical.
For short circuit transfer, you'll only expect up to 15% (of material thickness) penetration. With spray, you can expect up to 25%. These are not my numbers, they came from technical research papers that I've read, done by welding institutes. In welding school, we cut and polished 1/4" welded t-joints to see our penetration. You don't have to etch the surface, you can polish it mirror shinny, then slightly heat color it. You'll be able to see your weld cross section perfectly.
A little chamfer goes a long way. Gives the root something to bite to and eliminates sharp corners which are the cause of stress fractures. Also gives you some room to make another pass or two if need be. But there's only so much you can do with 110, depends on the welder and gas shielding too. Big difference between a cheap welder and a moderately expensive one with a brand name regardless of the voltage. If your cup is chipped away that affects it too. Good tip on pre-heating the pieces also. Cold pieces are hard to stick to. A lot of heat gets absorbed by the workpiece and the weld doesn't like to stick as much. A lot goes into welding and "pretty" doesn't equal "strong".
Yup, bought a boat trailer that needed work. There were welded-on tail light housings that should have been plenty strong enough to support one corner of the trailer. Peeled right off when I put a jack under it. Luckily whoever welded those didn't do the rest of the trailer.
sometimes "pretty" sells better than "strong". sure if your weld breaks its bad for business, but most of the time you have a lot of reserve for strength so its better to concentrate on pretty
Every weld instructor that taught me a process told the class "A pretty weld isn't always the perfect weld" but people do love to see dimes weaves etc. on every and anything
Years ago I bought some steel from a supplier so I could build a trailer hitch. He was really upset because I was wanting to home fabricate it using a hardware store bought buzz box. Understandably so since his brother was killed following a trailer when the hitch failed from being made at home. Just think of all the beginners out there doing this with one of those 110 mig welders. I wasn’t a beginner fortunately, and knew what it took. Didn’t use the hitch for highway use either.
@@6061 I've used most of the other processes, but have never tried dual shield- That'd be an awesome video if you'd care to share some tips on it. Thanks!
My cousin was an iron worker for 30+ years. She did say that they inspect the wields with some sort of x-ray? To see if the wields were actually good. Even if it looked like a bird took a $h*t on it😂😂😂 She helped build the Arizona diamond back stadium. As well as a few other high rises
I would have to agree with trainers from miller and lincoln welders, anything that is structural should be stick welded general things mig welded, and tig for things when you are going for a specific look, as an example I had a guy come to me with a part for a brush hog, he had it welded several times by a professional weld shop, and they failed, he asked me if I could weld it, so I broke out the stick welder, welded it up for free and the last time I seen him that was about 5 years later, it was still holding strong, that's when he told me the weld shops he went to before used mig instead of stick
had a guy do something like this on some production stuff at work, mig welding 1/2 x 1.5 rect bar to a 1in plate to act as supports, welds visually looked fine, but thin. I said they were trash, our super decided to test them with a hammer.....cracked at the plate on every one. Guy spent 2 days grinding them out and re-welding them. He didnt learn his lesson though and did it again about 6mo later.
You should be able to "hear" that the amperage/voltage is not high enough to get good penetration. Granted, the fillet appeared uniform on the surface, it didn't burn into the base metal deep enough to fuse the two parts together.
SAF I'm running with it. I never welded on 110. Might some day now that I have machines that will. But the big outlet works so much better. SAF indeed.
Interesting how flux core is cheaper, doesn't require a bottle, is sometimes seen as a "lesser" process because the machines are cheaper, yet it does a better job in this case. That's one of the reasons that I like TIG, I can sit there as long as I want, add as much heat as I like, before I add a single bit of new material to the weld. I can even go back and dump a TON of heat into a failed weld, just to get it to flow again if I wanted to try to fix a failed weld without grinding it out.
What welder and what specs for the flux core and why was the flux core so much stronger? I have a Lincoln 140 110v welder on a 20 amp plug I’d never welder 3/8 with it but often do 3/16 or 1/4”. Want to get the best results out of the unit I have.
In your opinion is a 110 welder worth putting gas on if you're welding towards the upper end of the capacity limit? If spatter is the only downside I'm leaning towards flux core all the time but idk.
@RiceCrisp320 -If aesthetics matter, then you may want to use gas and solid wire. -If you plan on welding indoors and don't have really good ventilation, you may want to use gas/solid wire. Flux core welding is a lot smokier.
I bought an experimental aircraft kit from a small manufacturer. I saw the welder in action when i went to pick up thhe parts, helooked green. I asked if he was AWS certifired, the owner got angry and said no. BTW thy charge ALOT for their welded products. I cried fowl and didn't buy anything else from the guy. People have this idea they can simply visually inspect the integrity of a weld, tgey are wrong. A recent AWS certification is your best bet
This happened to me the other week with a 250 amp mig. Concerned me that much i put the thing away and got the stick out to redo the lot. The welds have to support 10 tonne, i think when in doubt, go to whwt you know is tried and true
I was taught a long long time ago how to weld. The guy who did the teaching told me you do it my way your welds will hold better than the parent metal, but they will not be pretty. They will look okay. Not bragging but 95% of my welds do not break it's always the parent metal. It's always when i just reweld something without grinding or cutting out the old weld.
Pretty heavy weld there on thick material for spray arc or short circuit GMAW. Sounded good going in first two passes, looked good as well, problem is that joint and prep; as is , isnt for a single pass that leg size. My two cents
Just because it looks good, doesn't mean it is good. But if it looks bad, it may well be bad. If it looks bad but is indeed good, it still looks bad. Looks ain't everything, but they're something!
Burn rod, not wire on thick plate. It requires more skill at your craft, but it is much stronger. No matter what welding process you use, always try to preheat your metals and, in some cases post heat. I had a welding instructor who always stressed that good welds save lives. Without us, modern infrastructure would still be concrete and stone.
My millermatic 211 I find the recommended settings are way too low for the thickness you're running. I usually run my machine at close to max for voltage and 240v. I have never had a weld fail and always bevel steel greater than 1/8" especially if it's structural. I had to fix a few dozen ice grippers for a 80k lb john deer track machine feller buncher because they didn't bevel the 1/2" plate. I beveled every single piece and used our miller machines at work running pulse spray 480v and not one of my welds broke but the steel would bend on a few.
I taught welding. College level certification courses specifically. This demonstration was predictable, as MIG or Metal Inert Gas is not structural. For Steel, structural processes are Dual Sheild, Flux Core, or Stick. Lift arc TIG on natural gas pipe line -root passes. Glad people saw first hand your demo. Alot of folks think MIG is strong.
How about making an AWS spec bend tester (as used in common hydraulic presses) for a video? That's not expensive and then you can cut and grind standard test coupons which may be compared to other such. As for 120V wire welders I only use them on sheet metal and other thin stock and use a proper 240V machine for anything structural. Those can be run off common stove or clothes dryer outlets for most tasks which don't require max amps. Cold wire welds are far too common.
Вообще то в характеристиках указанно что цельнотянутая проволока самая "слабая". Далее идет порошковая проволока и самая прочная это порошковая газозащитная, такой варят корабли. Но тем не менее интересно. Потому что у себя на работе часто я варю длинные швы и последнее время нашел для себя выгодным режим 19.5 - 20В 300+-А Скорость сварки просто бешенная. И не смотря на средний ток ванна остается крайне управляемой, благодаря чему можно наливать швы с катетом 10-15мм за проход. Даже можно зазоры в 5-7мм заваривать не боясь прожога.
Any time I see ripples in a MIG weld, I fear lack of fusion. Get some 95/5 (argon oxygen) or 90/10 (argon co2) and for the .375 plate run somehere around 26-27 volts 400 wire speed with .045 ER70S-6 and lay down some weld. Shouldnt make many sparks or noise just a sizzle with an occasional crackle. Welds will be blue, and virtually free of ripples. IF you are limited to low current, Do as he says and use a FCAW or SMAW process with multiple passes. Short arc welds should be outlawed.
if you bevel the upright 45 degrees both sides then weld with 7018 wire it will be strongest ive done axels on heavy farm equipment that did not break at the weld
we were in ag class one day and we were just laying beads between two plates on a corner weld and we let one cool and as a joke we just through it up and let it hit the ground and lone be hold the weld bead just fell off in one piece and the base metal was never penetrated
IMHO, this is not a fair test. Material appears to be 5/16-3/8. You couldn't stick weld material this thick and expect it to hold, why would you try mig welding and think it would hold?
This is why no structural weld will have any deviation from the centre of the weld. 45' and just off 90' for full penetration. Then it's a steady hand. Any weaving or whipping is not part of any proper weld procedure. Unless you're positionaly welding pipe etc.
Precisely! Expecting an underpowered machine to do all the penetrative work for you, us both lazy and dangerous. Prep your work as if your own life depended on it, don't cut corners, or in fact, do! 😂
The purpose of this video is to help educate beginner/hobby welders about weld strength vs. appearance when using smaller hobby welder machines.
Thanks for watching.
And is ALL TOO NEEDED.
That’s why God gave us acetylene and oxygen, so our little welders don’t have to work as hard to heat the base metal for penetration.
Thanks for sharing. I'm one of those beginner/hobby welders and my take away is basically the wrong tool for the job. 120v maxed out for 3/8 material? Why is the flux core weld so much stronger than the MIG? How would stick welding compare to MIG at 120V?
I thank you also for showing this. I'm not much of a welder but some days I do good other times what was I think. I use stick and wire at work, some of mine looks great some not so and some of my good welds hold and others break or crack.
Tell tale sign is the sides of the weld are not 'wetting in' which is term known by welders which means the edges are bulging rather than smoothly blending into the parent metal. You can overcome these issues by pre heating or running hotter.
I see the comments all the time on Facebook. People will take one look at a photo of a high production stringer weld that used dual shield or spray, and it's the worst thing they've ever seen, the welder was lazy, didn't know what they're doing, blah blah blah. But as soon as something has little consistent weave lines in it (or worse, a huge row of overlapping tacks), it's automatically a perfect expert level weld. The stack of dimes obsession on the internet is out of control.
@@6061exactly
Who gives a shit about sofawelders opinions on logbook?
@@anttihuttula6547 sofawelders! Love it!😂
*facecrook
A consistent weld is better than a pretty weld. Consistent weld yields the proper penetration. Easy to lay a stack when its just melting the filler, as you aren't also trying to penetrate the product you are welding.
I did a bunch of videos on this exact thing on my channel. 100% running cold settings and stacking dimes to get the look results in poor fusion and very weak welds. Despite a ton of evidence presented in the videos I still had a significant amount of people say that’s simply not the case and say the numerous videos were wrong. To date nobody has provided a sample weld, cut and etch, or settings that will allow for proper fusion with some stack mig settings. Thanks for covering this, the more info out there the better 👍👍
Hey Greg! Love to see you inputting on other channels as well.
i also saw the video you posted , and congratulate you for taking the time to upload and try to educate people re the strength of welds
Great video. I have always chamfered plate that is thicker than 1/4". A few moments on the grinder nearly always means better penetration, and I find the entire process faster and more economical when I can get away with a single pass. Thanks for the clinic!
Awesome short video. Straight to the point. I am no welder but I like to learn new things. Subscribed
Seeing the first pass and the first weld seam breaking, I was about to write "hey, over here in Europe we use to do some weld prep". But you said it all in the end. Nice demonstration why weld prep is not just annoying work but an absolute necessity.
Over here most newer welders are "synergic" machines, setting voltate and wire feed according to the current asked (which is set according to material thickness). One can override the presets, but they're commonly pretty good. If my welds have a hump, it's not the settings, it's myself - the hobby welder. This takes out a lot of completey bollox settings that only generate good looking welds with no penetration.
Btw, 3M Cubitron fiber disks are awesome to grind bevels on thick plates before welding. Started to use them a couple weeks back and wished, I would have known about them earlier.
@smurface549,
Do you have an exact link or part number for the 3M Cubitron discs you use?
Thanks
@@6061 The ones I have are called Cubitron II 987C. Got them from Ebay, but it was a French seller, which might not be very attractive outside of Europe.
I recently saw in a video on RUclips that there's already a third generation availabe, but I have no first hand experience with them.
In my experience, the backup plate also plays a role. Had a pretty soft plate first, but the results haven't been very good when applying decent pressure. 3M of course sells their own backup plate, which I have found working quite well. It doesn't get soft when heating up, like thermoplastic materials would do. So maybe pay attention to that detail if you'd give the disks a try (they won't cost you more than half a kidney 😀)
When seeing videos of people using the Cubitron disks to grind a bevel, it's hard to believe that it's not a timelapse. After trying it myself, I was quite pleased, despite the somewhat steep price per disk.
@@6061On Fire Welding uses them and recommends them in a lot of his videos. I think he has an Amazon store and he links them in video descriptions often.
@@smurface549
Are those the purple ones??
They indo do eat metal like hot cakes.
Thanks! Where were you years ago when I was learning while rebuilding a truck? Fortunately the steel I was working with was 1/4. My 110v machine said it could do 3/8 but I thought that was just marketing. I preheated with a small propane torch, and used 3 layers. It came out nice. Shock towers to a truck frame. They've held up.
I'm currently in welding school and my instructor taught us the wip method with gmaw. He pushes not drag. This time we are using Flux core with gas. On the side he giving me a head start on aluminum tig.
Ull melt your shield.
Have you got to the part about the dimes are not as strong as a stringer?
Have loved your content over the years. I am not a welder by trade, I do it for fun. I am by trade a Mechanical Designer. Had this been a bracket from a system I designed it would have been a double bevel weld (bevel dependent on material thickness) with at least a 1/16IN gap. I learned early that every design I submitted for stress analysis that had a T-Joint weld was sent back with a required bevel weld, at least on the side of the most stress. For the casual home/small project use, hammering a test piece is fine, but most of the work I did on designs required an accompanying stress report, so we knew who to blame when it failed :)... And you are correct, it does not have to be pretty as long as it is done properly.
That vise is the real mvp
Structural commonly uses dual shield, gas shielded flux core wire. Typically a larger wire than solid core wires and much higher voltage and feed rates. Get it set right and it's a quiet hiss. Can achieve insane deposition rates with full pen.
that quiet hiss means you are in axial spray transfer......
@@ypaulbrown Some dual shield wires are designed for spray transfer.
@@ypaulbrown We do spray transfer with solid wire on cylinder rods but our dual shield is globular
I’ve used metal core and dual shield for structural fabrication
Worked at a large heavy machinery factory for years. All hand welding. Always used flux core with gas. Went on like butter. Never broke.
I've been in school for like 6 months now and all these videos have been priceless. Obviously my instructor teaches me a lot but he only uas sonmuch time and when I'm not welding in school it good to look at stuff like this to get an idea of what I'm looking for in my own welds. I'm starting to get quite good at this point. I started with stick and let me tell you it was rough but little hy little I've gotten to a point where I feel pretty comfortable with stick, MIG and even acetylene welding as well as unshielded flux core and dual shiel. I start TIG mext week and im excited for that.
Wow! This was an eye opener! Absolutely epic teaching points. I will remember this forever! Really shows you why the good welders grind in the steel to a 45 angle taper so the wire sticks better. Awesome! Thanks!
i take your point, but you broke the second one a different way than the first, and welded the edges as well.
The point is if it's properly fused it won't break with a few swing of a hammer. Doesn't matter which way.
I've been an amateur welder for several decades and just recently figured out that I have a tendency to go too fast and had my wire feed too high
Haven't welded for years but I weld was too fast and wire feed high. Lol. I'm a.d.d and a.d.h.d. so I'm always in a rush. And I hate it. Lol😅
I never thought flux core would be better than gas. Very interesting thanks!!
Easier penetration
That’s also why a lot of pressure vessel piping and thick steel is welded with flux. You get a lot of good penetration and it burns hotter. Used to work for Halliburton myself.
Just glance at ur parameters in the cabinet, the flux column goes a few diameter larger than solid wire if I'm not mistaken, on the metal thickness not wire diameter
Dual shield is the best of both worlds. High productivity and great strength.
Shop supervisor got upset too often because customer requirements for welding didn't permit solid wire processes. 100% CO2 with S6 wire in short circuit is brittle..
As soon as you started that first weld I thought that is way too cold
Great video, you showed that it was not joined but ‘glued’ together
I'm 45yrs in and my current rig has a water-cooled handpiece and will run 50v/350a at 100% duty cycle. With 1.2mm wire the best weld it does is about an 8mm-9mm fillet, depending on how the grid is doing at the time, so I just stack those on the heavy steel I work with all day. Only time I'll put a pattern in is when I'm copying what's already there.
whenever I need to weld material that thick I pull out the stick welder (its actually a tig) and thats with the luxury of having 240 volt 15 amp mains
short circuit mig should never be used on anything that matters over 1/4" thickness. Will is stick two pieces together, yes - is it strong, no.
Excellent video Mr6061.
I had to weld 1" T1 steel, and it pass through a lab, to get my last welding job. That was done with L tech 90 .030
Not with a 110v welder. Pump up those amps and in the flat or horizontal position you can absolutely punch in.
I was going to say you are asking a lot for a 110v/120v machine. I’m going to go out on a limb and say I doubt the specs say it can weld 3/8ths in a single pass on 110/120v, does it say it can weld 3/8ths in a single pass on 240v? If its a Millermatic 211 then 240v 3/8ths is the max size in a single pass (240v.) I think beveling the piece and using it on 240 if you can, if not multiple passes would definitely be the way to go along with beveling the piece you are welding onto the base piece, and even giving it a bit of a preheat if possible, do everything you can to give yourself the best chance of penetrating into the parent metal. You might even be better off using SMAW if that piece absolutley had to stay put.
Geez, but did you see that last weld? 3/8 or not, sucker held on. Not bad for a little welder.
No you can do it with them preheat and stringers
@@jacksonfevthis. The 110 welders are certainly limited, but they sure have come a long way from the Lincoln Weldpak 100 I had near the turn of the century. You had to preheat 1/8” to get good penetration.
Another benefit to using flux core wire is that it scares away the deer. And by deer I mean the varment standing over your shoulder trying to tell you what is the best way to do your job.
I always tell my students, it’s really easy to make a good looking bad mig weld
I'll probably never weld anything, but this was cool to see.
Arc or stick welding is good too for better penetration than solid wire mig, mig spray welding works good too but you have to have a powerful welder and can not run vertical.
For short circuit transfer, you'll only expect up to 15% (of material thickness) penetration. With spray, you can expect up to 25%. These are not my numbers, they came from technical research papers that I've read, done by welding institutes. In welding school, we cut and polished 1/4" welded t-joints to see our penetration. You don't have to etch the surface, you can polish it mirror shinny, then slightly heat color it. You'll be able to see your weld cross section perfectly.
A little chamfer goes a long way. Gives the root something to bite to and eliminates sharp corners which are the cause of stress fractures. Also gives you some room to make another pass or two if need be. But there's only so much you can do with 110, depends on the welder and gas shielding too. Big difference between a cheap welder and a moderately expensive one with a brand name regardless of the voltage. If your cup is chipped away that affects it too. Good tip on pre-heating the pieces also. Cold pieces are hard to stick to. A lot of heat gets absorbed by the workpiece and the weld doesn't like to stick as much. A lot goes into welding and "pretty" doesn't equal "strong".
Well, thanx for not saying " few welders know this secret trick " Good vid bro.
Yup, bought a boat trailer that needed work. There were welded-on tail light housings that should have been plenty strong enough to support one corner of the trailer. Peeled right off when I put a jack under it. Luckily whoever welded those didn't do the rest of the trailer.
Many thanks for this waking up video! Woud TIG give better results here?
sometimes "pretty" sells better than "strong". sure if your weld breaks its bad for business, but most of the time you have a lot of reserve for strength so its better to concentrate on pretty
Every weld instructor that taught me a process told the class "A pretty weld isn't always the perfect weld" but people do love to see dimes weaves etc. on every and anything
Dimes and weaves are wrong.
I like to stick weld both steel and aluminum. I like to feel the rod penetration . Although I am a novice welder .
The sound tells the story.
Years ago I bought some steel from a supplier so I could build a trailer hitch. He was really upset because I was wanting to home fabricate it using a hardware store bought buzz box. Understandably so since his brother was killed following a trailer when the hitch failed from being made at home. Just think of all the beginners out there doing this with one of those 110 mig welders.
I wasn’t a beginner fortunately, and knew what it took. Didn’t use the hitch for highway use either.
I've seen some heavy equipment welding where they use a flux core with gas.. whats that about?
"Dual-Shield" fast travel speeds and really good penetration. It's really fun to use.
@@6061 I've used most of the other processes, but have never tried dual shield- That'd be an awesome video if you'd care to share some tips on it. Thanks!
Where does stick fit in? Would it be better, worse?
My cousin was an iron worker for 30+ years. She did say that they inspect the wields with some sort of x-ray? To see if the wields were actually good. Even if it looked like a bird took a $h*t on it😂😂😂
She helped build the Arizona diamond back stadium. As well as a few other high rises
Would have been nice to see the same weld, with a 240V machine running maybe 160 amps, .035 wire, just to compare...
Moral of the story… use the right machine for plate vs sheet steel, you’re welcome!
This is a 240 amp job. 110v machine is the issue. Love your videos
I would have to agree with trainers from miller and lincoln welders, anything that is structural should be stick welded general things mig welded, and tig for things when you are going for a specific look, as an example I had a guy come to me with a part for a brush hog, he had it welded several times by a professional weld shop, and they failed, he asked me if I could weld it, so I broke out the stick welder, welded it up for free and the last time I seen him that was about 5 years later, it was still holding strong, that's when he told me the weld shops he went to before used mig instead of stick
had a guy do something like this on some production stuff at work, mig welding 1/2 x 1.5 rect bar to a 1in plate to act as supports, welds visually looked fine, but thin. I said they were trash, our super decided to test them with a hammer.....cracked at the plate on every one. Guy spent 2 days grinding them out and re-welding them. He didnt learn his lesson though and did it again about 6mo later.
using 110 with that thickness?
Hi buddy , what size wire was the Fluxcore ? metric please 0.8 or 1.0 mm ? and at what amperage ? thanks 😁👍
So, is this an issue in the UK, with 240V mains? Ive never senn my mig welds sheer like that from just a hammer, except on dirty material...
nice mig welding tricks, i like this, suitable for reference for beginners like me👍👍👍
You should be able to "hear" that the amperage/voltage is not high enough to get good penetration. Granted, the fillet appeared uniform on the surface, it didn't burn into the base metal deep enough to fuse the two parts together.
SAF
I'm running with it. I never welded on 110. Might some day now that I have machines that will. But the big outlet works so much better. SAF indeed.
Have you observed your welding voltage/current and welding speed and calculated your heat input?
Interesting how flux core is cheaper, doesn't require a bottle, is sometimes seen as a "lesser" process because the machines are cheaper, yet it does a better job in this case.
That's one of the reasons that I like TIG, I can sit there as long as I want, add as much heat as I like, before I add a single bit of new material to the weld. I can even go back and dump a TON of heat into a failed weld, just to get it to flow again if I wanted to try to fix a failed weld without grinding it out.
You have to be careful pre heating thanks to annealing effect
What welder and what specs for the flux core and why was the flux core so much stronger? I have a Lincoln 140 110v welder on a 20 amp plug I’d never welder 3/8 with it but often do 3/16 or 1/4”. Want to get the best results out of the unit I have.
Make America strong. Weld it.
I love this video man❤
So much in so little👏
So is flux core better because shielding gas cools the weld?
Good demo, busting all those "master welders" from tiktok and such😂. Can you eleborate on why flux core delicered such a higher quality weld?
In your opinion is a 110 welder worth putting gas on if you're welding towards the upper end of the capacity limit? If spatter is the only downside I'm leaning towards flux core all the time but idk.
@RiceCrisp320
-If aesthetics matter, then you may want to use gas and solid wire.
-If you plan on welding indoors and don't have really good ventilation, you may want to use gas/solid wire. Flux core welding is a lot smokier.
I bought an experimental aircraft kit from a small manufacturer. I saw the welder in action when i went to pick up thhe parts, helooked green. I asked if he was AWS certifired, the owner got angry and said no. BTW thy charge ALOT for their welded products. I cried fowl and didn't buy anything else from the guy. People have this idea they can simply visually inspect the integrity of a weld, tgey are wrong. A recent AWS certification is your best bet
My airpods HATED the welding noise 😂😂
Vertical ups with low hydrogen electrodes can be ugly af but are holding up buildings and bridges around the world..
This happened to me the other week with a 250 amp mig. Concerned me that much i put the thing away and got the stick out to redo the lot. The welds have to support 10 tonne, i think when in doubt, go to whwt you know is tried and true
I was taught a long long time ago how to weld. The guy who did the teaching told me you do it my way your welds will hold better than the parent metal, but they will not be pretty. They will look okay. Not bragging but 95% of my welds do not break it's always the parent metal. It's always when i just reweld something without grinding or cutting out the old weld.
Pretty heavy weld there on thick material for spray arc or short circuit GMAW. Sounded good going in first two passes, looked good as well, problem is that joint and prep; as is , isnt for a single pass that leg size. My two cents
To be fair, this quote applies to every single welding method...
Nice video sir thank you so much for the sharing this video sir 😊😊❤
Just because it looks good, doesn't mean it is good.
But if it looks bad, it may well be bad.
If it looks bad but is indeed good, it still looks bad.
Looks ain't everything, but they're something!
Welding isn't a beauty contest though, it is a strength contest.
The Certified Welding Inspector I used to work with says "Welds are not for decoration."
@Ultroumbonee the third one didn't break.
Every test done on the matter says otherwise@Ultroumbonee
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
Burn rod, not wire on thick plate. It requires more skill at your craft, but it is much stronger. No matter what welding process you use, always try to preheat your metals and, in some cases post heat. I had a welding instructor who always stressed that good welds save lives. Without us, modern infrastructure would still be concrete and stone.
Nice explanation. Thanks.
My millermatic 211 I find the recommended settings are way too low for the thickness you're running. I usually run my machine at close to max for voltage and 240v. I have never had a weld fail and always bevel steel greater than 1/8" especially if it's structural. I had to fix a few dozen ice grippers for a 80k lb john deer track machine feller buncher because they didn't bevel the 1/2" plate. I beveled every single piece and used our miller machines at work running pulse spray 480v and not one of my welds broke but the steel would bend on a few.
I taught welding. College level certification courses specifically. This demonstration was predictable, as MIG or Metal Inert Gas is not structural. For Steel, structural processes are Dual Sheild, Flux Core, or Stick. Lift arc TIG on natural gas pipe line -root passes. Glad people saw first hand your demo. Alot of folks think MIG is strong.
This is exactly why short circuit GMAW isn’t prequalified in terms of a WPS for code welding.
What is the max A you can get from 110v welder ?
Nice job pal, I see it a lot in the work place, people trying to MIG dimes.
What is that liquid coming out of welds and why is it there? I've never welded but I cant stop watching this channel lol.
Funny how 7018 AC can get you a beautiful and super ductile weld. Especially after welding on magnetized steel.
How about making an AWS spec bend tester (as used in common hydraulic presses) for a video? That's not expensive and then you can cut and grind standard test coupons which may be compared to other such. As for 120V wire welders I only use them on sheet metal and other thin stock and use a proper 240V machine for anything structural. Those can be run off common stove or clothes dryer outlets for most tasks which don't require max amps. Cold wire welds are far too common.
You ever done spray arc
Preheat 1/2 in and up
Вообще то в характеристиках указанно что цельнотянутая проволока самая "слабая". Далее идет порошковая проволока и самая прочная это порошковая газозащитная, такой варят корабли.
Но тем не менее интересно. Потому что у себя на работе часто я варю длинные швы и последнее время нашел для себя выгодным режим 19.5 - 20В 300+-А Скорость сварки просто бешенная. И не смотря на средний ток ванна остается крайне управляемой, благодаря чему можно наливать швы с катетом 10-15мм за проход. Даже можно зазоры в 5-7мм заваривать не боясь прожога.
MIG actually stands for Maybe it’s good.
Any time I see ripples in a MIG weld, I fear lack of fusion. Get some 95/5 (argon oxygen) or 90/10 (argon co2) and for the .375 plate run somehere around 26-27 volts 400 wire speed with .045 ER70S-6 and lay down some weld. Shouldnt make many sparks or noise just a sizzle with an occasional crackle. Welds will be blue, and virtually free of ripples. IF you are limited to low current, Do as he says and use a FCAW or SMAW process with multiple passes. Short arc welds should be outlawed.
I think I need to whack some of my welds after watching this. Thanks 6061!
3/8” is too thick for a 110 machine should have Ground the end of the pieces to open up the joint before making the weld.
if you bevel the upright 45 degrees both sides then weld with 7018 wire it will be strongest ive done axels on heavy farm equipment that did not break at the weld
we were in ag class one day and we were just laying beads between two plates on a corner weld and we let one cool and as a joke we just through it up and let it hit the ground and lone be hold the weld bead just fell off in one piece and the base metal was never penetrated
IMHO, this is not a fair test. Material appears to be 5/16-3/8. You couldn't stick weld material this thick and expect it to hold, why would you try mig welding and think it would hold?
Oxy torch or induction preheat needed, or a bigger welder.
That's why I got a 220v MiG...
This is why no structural weld will have any deviation from the centre of the weld. 45' and just off 90' for full penetration. Then it's a steady hand. Any weaving or whipping is not part of any proper weld procedure. Unless you're positionaly welding pipe etc.
Guys don't bevel anything. You gotta bevel your material.
Precisely!
Expecting an underpowered machine to do all the penetrative work for you, us both lazy and dangerous.
Prep your work as if your own life depended on it, don't cut corners, or in fact, do! 😂
how do you bevel a fillet dick head maybe get the mil scale off
Please explain how to bevel the base material of a tee joint? Grind a notch in it? Beveling is not always the best solution to everything lol
And plus for any metal 3/8 & up stick welder all day
@@tobrydeleon9889
Thank you, I was hoping someone would ask about this. I'll make a video explaining your logic. I'm on your side.
Before he spoke, my first thought was... thats a Barbie Welder! And that steel looks like 3/8".... this equals no good...lol
Hell i can never produce dimes anyways. They always look like a freaking moon with a million hills and craters. Lololol. Im terrible.
help please, why does the wife start EVERY conversation with "are you even listening to me?"
Preheated?
Yep Screw the hype on dimes I wanna know my welds are gonna hold period !
In this case, just use a stick, or a machine with more amps.😊
MIG works better on thinner stock. Quarter " and under is ideal.
Try a chamfer and a preheat.110 will handle that fine.