Thanks for doing that. The last one in your list and the one missing should be: Material Thickness - 5/16" | Volts - 23v | Wire Feed - 512 IPM Material Thickness - 3/8" | Volts - 23.5v | Wire Feed - 535 IPM
I appreciate your help with these videos. Am a newbie welder and this journey can get expensive. Tips from pros go a long way. Love and respect from Zimbabwe, Africa.
I have a weld test tomarrow for a new job I haven't welded in over a year thanks for reminding me a close estimate for what settings I'll be needing I feel much more confident passing now
I have been fighting that little "stutter" at the start for forever. Thank you for addressing that. You do a continues weld even on thin stuff. Most people use the series of "spot" welds for particularly auto body work. I would prefer to do a continuous weld but to often get blow through.
Great video as usual. I used to take scrap pieces and place them near my mig box and weld while slowly adjusting the wire speed to tune it in. That works exceptionally well.
@@duxromanorum9861 That would be tough because the amount of steel available for heat sink purposes varies greatly. Doing a 4x6” filet weld in welding school is a lot different from welding the hull of a ship. But one of the pros of MIG - oops - GMAW - is that it allows longer welds because of the continuous wire feed. As the metal heats up you can go faster snd only experience will help you there.
@@peetky8645 Didn’t know they taught submarines to weld. Only kidding. Our welding instructor only told us about WW II era ships and the history of MIG. That wasn’t mentioned in my CWI class either. I’ll have to ask those instructors since they were headquartered on the Southern coast for many years in their own welding inspection business.
@@jockellis I think the chinese and koreans have perfected how to do this --catching the flux mixture while moving horizontally and vertical in tough, but it allows them to weld 1/2 inch plate with full pen in a single pass quickly
Do you have a video with setting adjustments when you're welding 2 different thicknesses of material? 14 gauge to 1/8" for example... this was a great video, thanks. My only suggestion would be the final list of settings completed at the end.
The newer machines are "conversational" where you are "asked" what process, gas or flux core for MIG, type of material and thickness afterwhich it sets everything for you. You can adjust feeds & speeds from there plus put them in memory. It also helps having Lincoln/Miller's little slide rule setting charts that were passed out back in the day 20 years ago.
Yes, very good point ....but understand that every machine performs differently and he left out a great deal of detail. The take-away will be the experimentation process only. When making adjustments, change only one parameter at a time.
The last project I did with square tubing taught me that the type of joint affects heat requirements as much as the material thickness. e.g. A Tee joint needs more heat to get decent penetration than a simple butt joint. I made up a table of settings that included the number of legs in the joint. Butt = 2, Tee = 3, two tubes together = 4...
Thanks for the tips. I'm learning mig welding with a harbor freight (chicago electric) 125 amps welder. My welds currently look like corn diarrhea but I hope to make smooth welds soon
@@nicholassullivan1239 1/8" mild steel sheets and 1.5mm galvanized square steel tube, using 0.035 flux core wire. About position, I don't know, but I definitely don't have a fixed position for welding, I just chose whatever feels comfortable at the moment, trying to have the gun at a 45° angle
I was getting ready to say man I used the wrong settings but then you got to the gas difference and spray transfer and it made more sense because where I welded we always used a gas mixture
Great video thanks. I’m having trouble with .134 wall 1-5/8” od mild steel tubing. Since 3/4 of the weld is vertical or over head I keep getting puddle dripping . Looks fine on a flat bench weld for that thickness. Garbage around the tube. Thanks.
that was a fantastic video. the camera capturing the weld puddle so clearly, the bacon sound, that all helped me understand so much. and on top of that some great settings to use. too bad i have a gassless mig and only two settings for wire speed etc. but still very helpful nonetheless.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I HAVE HAD MY EVERLAST LIGHTNING 275 SINCE JANUARY AND I HAVE BEEN BEGGING EVERY CHANNEL I KNOW TO DO SMALL SHEETMETAL.... NOW IF YOU COULD DO TIG(THE SAME EXACT WAY), I WOULD SHUT UP AND WELD!!!! THANKS BROTHER!!!!
hey chat, i have a 275. running .035 wire. did the 1.6 conversion for amps. his numbers don't match up. 18v on 22 gauge is instant burn through. i have a good map now of settings for .035. what are your findings with the 275? how are you enjoying it?
Great video production and camera work. The instructions were very good. Coming from a stick and TIG background I needed this help. Now to pick out a machine for an upcoming project.
Very helpful !!! Can you also drag on a 1/4" mild steel tee joint ? Can you do also do a demonstration on a 1/4" mild steel butt joint using Mig please ?
Great video and absolutely the BEST video quality I have see. Your exposure is perfect which is very tricky with welding of any kind. Great work. Thank you!
I just found this channel and i just want to say thank you. I just never could find the right settings the settings it comes with never sounded like bacon now my welder is sounding like bacon thanks again
So very helpful. Thank you. I've done a wee bit of welding on MIG and TIG machines I'm allowed to use, but have just acquired the first machine I can call my own -- a three year old, never even turned on, Everlast i-MIG 200. Your video gave so many good hints and explanations. This machine came with a small spool of 0.023, and a smallish 84cf bottle of 75/25 argon/co2. Two questions: (#1) What is main impact of using straight CO2 (or you said 90/10) vs. 75/25 Ar/CO2? (#2) Can I use this i-MIG 200 (with heavier wire) for t-joints on 3/8 bar? or 5/16? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I came to ask this question, nice to see it's already been asked and answered. Also very nice to see all these videos that have been uploaded over the last year. Time to finally figure out how to put my PowerMIG 200 to use.
@@everlastgenerator good to know, I have a 252 STi, but I dont use it often enough to remember good settings, and I don't believe the manual has any to start off with.
I know this is mig . I'm learning mig tig and stick for steel and stainless. This 1 issue I keep having is getting my angles correct. Any tip of how to correct this . Seems everyone answer is time but if I dont fix it then time will not help. My welds are mostly correct good height and penetration.
Something that I don't hear mentioned these videos is the fact that lengthening your stick out will increase your voltage. So when you are welding try increasing and decreasing your stick out and that will tell you which way to go on your settings. If it improves with more stick out then you need more voltage or less wire . The opposite if it improves with less stick out . This eliminates moving in the wrong direction
@@Ryan_Atomic stick out is the length of wire between your contact tip(not nozzle end)and the metal. it is increased by pulling away from the metal, and decreased by moving closer. In general, your stickup with solid wire should be very short---3/8 inch or less. With flux core wires, polarity is generally opposite(dcen) and sickouts are much longer(up to 2 inches in some cases) to allow more of the wire to preheat and melt the flux before it is vaporized in the arc. I believe Joe is incorrect about voltage.....MIG is a CV or constant voltage process......voltage remains the same whether stickout is long or short, but with increasing stickout, the circuit has more resistance, so the amperage drops with increased stickout. you will notice this as a change in the arc sound as you pull further away from the workpiece. usually it starts popping, telling you to shorten your distance. the contrary is also true...if you shorten your distance the frying bacon sound may begin to be a steady hiss sound(spray transfer sound).
Joe Dirt This changes amperage, not voltage, if your amperage (or wire feed) is too high, further away from your work will be better, so decreasing your amperage will fix this.
This is very helpful... what would have been more helpful was the screen you added on your 200 amp mig (i-mig 200 e) after I bought mine... I have to count the ticks and approximate 18.5v and 149ipm on dials that don't tell me what they do... Are the dials - labeled 1-10 - linear with the ranges in the owners' manual?
I have a question I have a everlast MTS 252 and I'm using synergy mode can you possibly make a video how to adjust wire and voltage speeds on this type of machine it's very confusing I'm new to this machine I'm new to welding
I'm a little late to the party but any chance you could do this with a lincoln welder that has no digital gauges, just the letters and numbers for adjustment? This was a great video and I will be adapting these techniques to a lincoln sp125, some not all, having a digital gauge seems to be really nice.
It won't work that well. That style of control should come with a look up chart. Usually under the lid where the wire spool is. That will get you very close then make minor adjustments from there. If you don't have anything on the machine Lincoln has all the old manuals online.
you can convert your letters/nubers to inches per minute(IPM) by pulling the trigger for 6 seconds and then measuring the inches of wire and multiplying that length by 10x
Absolutely, I welded with MIG (and many others have!) for years and still dont take any notice of the digital readout, just play until you get the frying bacon and the good weld bead characteristics. You will then be adjusting in small increments depending on weld type (overhead, down, up etc) and metal thickness. Also where possible (if right handed) weld from right to left (pushing) so you can see the weld pool properly.
Can you do a mig crash course ie setting up you welder. Im having hard time learning how to std mig and Synegic mod i have a mts 252 Everlast welder.. for thin sheet metal for autobody..
Say your connecting 2 different thicknesses of metal. Maybe .090 to .185 ? Is it correct to set speed & voltage for the .090 & weld in the middle ? Or, would I try to set the speed & voltage for the .185 and try to weld more on the side of the thicker pcs. ?? Thanks for your consideration, Sincerely ...............
Para los calibres 5/16 y 3/8 " es aconsejable aplicarle en transferencia spray ya que son de mayor espesor parámetros entre 26 y 28 voltios con unos 280 0 300 ipm.
So did you leave your Gas on 25CFH thro all of those different Thicknesses? Also, exactly what type of Gas were you using? You said C02, were you running 100% C02? I’ve always ran 75/25 when Mig Welding
Any chance you could do a video on .045 LA-100 wire? I’ve been using it at work for a while with no training, I’ve gotten used to it but would like to know how a pro would use it. I get mixed info from my coworkers. Some say to lower my IPM and increase my voltage and others tell me to crank up both. The material I’m welding is pretty thick, ranging from 1.5in up to about 5in. I typically run my IPM around 350 and I have my settings set to trim instead of volts. I run my trim around .98. My welds aren’t defective or anything I would just like them to look a little prettier
LOL burn back. I only use that if I have my settings nice but have issues at the start of the weld. Oh and if I am doing some random positional welding.
What can you tell me about corner to corner on 3mm steel where a bead needs to be left on the inside? Pressure vessel. Should I risk a slow hot burn on the MIGir go for more controlled fire with TIG?
7:50 Good one ! You move forward, on the bottom side; then rotate upward; counter-clockwise.......good. That, gives the complete weld, a BASE for the dime/puddle effect, whilst still bonding both vertical/flat pieces. I always, attempt to '' work with nature ''....in any situation. Use gravity, to our works advantage. Take care, and save your eyes. Good man !
*For All The People Trying To Write it Down What Settings For What gauge I have Typed It All Down For Yall.*
*FEED WIRE GUAGE* - 0.030"
*Material Thickness* - 22 Gauge | *Volts* - 18v | *Wire Feed* - 110 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 18 Gauge | *Volts* - 18.3v | *Wire Feed* - 149 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 16 Gauge | *Volts* - 18.5v | *Wire Feed* - 149 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 14 Gauge | *Volts* - 18.5v | *Wire Feed* - 160 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 1/8" | *Volts* - 18.9v | *Wire Feed* - 188 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 3/16" | *Volts* - 19.5v | *Wire Feed* - 240 IPM
*Material Thickness*- 1/4" | *Volts* - 19.5v | *Wire Feed* - 252 IPM
*Material Thickness* - 3/16" | *Volts* - 19.5v | *Wire Feed* - 240 IPM
Thanks for doing that. The last one in your list and the one missing should be:
Material Thickness - 5/16" | Volts - 23v | Wire Feed - 512 IPM
Material Thickness - 3/8" | Volts - 23.5v | Wire Feed - 535 IPM
Won't these setting depend on the machine your using? Or is just specific to the everlast welder?
I appreciate your help with these videos. Am a newbie welder and this journey can get expensive. Tips from pros go a long way. Love and respect from Zimbabwe, Africa.
I learned more in 5 minutes here than 4 years of HS. Teacher was clueless. I remember asking him about the “bacon” sound in 1980.
I’ve got a weld test tomorrow for a big company, I can weld mig and tig but I’m stressed. This videos helped a lot. Thanks
I have a weld test tomarrow for a new job I haven't welded in over a year thanks for reminding me a close estimate for what settings I'll be needing I feel much more confident passing now
I hope you passed it with flying colors bro
Hope you passed the cert 🙏👍✌
You never forgot brother. You're thinking too much.
I know its a late comment but always ask for.a test plate! During test.. To set your heat! A must
@@UncleDan77 dude your right I was way over thinking it I passed it easy they let me me do a couple test passes and it was like riding a bike 👌
Me too 🤣
I have been fighting that little "stutter" at the start for forever. Thank you for addressing that. You do a continues weld even on thin stuff. Most people use the series of "spot" welds for particularly auto body work. I would prefer to do a continuous weld but to often get blow through.
Great video as usual. I used to take scrap pieces and place them near my mig box and weld while slowly adjusting the wire speed to tune it in. That works exceptionally well.
This is hands down one of the most informative videos I’ve seen on setting my mig welds correctly. Thank you!
indeed. i really wanted to look at a table that shows how the voltage-amperage-wire speed work in tandem based on the width of the material.
@@duxromanorum9861 That would be tough because the amount of steel available for heat sink purposes varies greatly. Doing a 4x6” filet weld in welding school is a lot different from welding the hull of a ship. But one of the pros of MIG - oops - GMAW - is that it allows longer welds because of the continuous wire feed. As the metal heats up you can go faster snd only experience will help you there.
@@jockellis aren't ships generally now done with subarc
@@peetky8645 Didn’t know they taught submarines to weld. Only kidding. Our welding instructor only told us about WW II era ships and the history of MIG. That wasn’t mentioned in my CWI class either. I’ll have to ask those instructors since they were headquartered on the Southern coast for many years in their own welding inspection business.
@@jockellis I think the chinese and koreans have perfected how to do this --catching the flux mixture while moving horizontally and vertical in tough, but it allows them to weld 1/2 inch plate with full pen in a single pass quickly
If it sounds like bacon , you’re welding
If it smells like bacon, you’re on fire
LOL YUMMY BACON
Do you have a video with setting adjustments when you're welding 2 different thicknesses of material? 14 gauge to 1/8" for example... this was a great video, thanks. My only suggestion would be the final list of settings completed at the end.
The newer machines are "conversational" where you are "asked" what process, gas or flux core for MIG, type of material and thickness afterwhich it sets everything for you.
You can adjust feeds & speeds from there plus put them in memory.
It also helps having Lincoln/Miller's little slide rule setting charts that were passed out back in the day 20 years ago.
I was waiting to take a screen shot of your final list of settings for my reference. But great vid anyway.
Same 🤣🤣🤣 and Im not sure if he adjusted his gas
Yes, very good point ....but understand that every machine performs differently and he left out a great deal of detail. The take-away will be the experimentation process only.
When making adjustments, change only one parameter at a time.
MIG Welding Estimates
22 Gauge - 18.0 Volts - WFS 110 IPM
18 Gauge - 18.3 Volts - WFS 149 IPM
16 Gauge - 18.5 Volts - WFS 149 IPM
14 Gauge - 18.5 Volts - WFS 160 IPM
1/8" - 18.9 Volts - WFS 188 IPM
3/16" - 19.5 Volts - WFS 240 IPM
1/4" - 19.5 Volts - WFS 252 IPM
Limit of Short Circuit (Spray Transfer)
5/16" - 23 Volts - WFS 512 IPM
3/8" - 23.5 Volts - WFS 535 IPM
⅚v@@flakko4anddaddyDĥ0😊
Wow, this was so helpful. I was super frustrated with my poor welding. This video taught me how to learn my welder. Thank you!
The last project I did with square tubing taught me that the type of joint affects heat requirements as much as the material thickness. e.g. A Tee joint needs more heat to get decent penetration than a simple butt joint. I made up a table of settings that included the number of legs in the joint. Butt = 2, Tee = 3, two tubes together = 4...
I have a Nice open door for you as well.
For a new welder, this is a wealth of info. Thanks
🙏
Not if your settings are 1-9 power and 1-9 wire speed, like on my Lincoln at work
Brilliant video with you being able to see the welding first hand and what realy stood out was the BACON sound. Thanks alot.
Thanks for the tips. I'm learning mig welding with a harbor freight (chicago electric) 125 amps welder. My welds currently look like corn diarrhea but I hope to make smooth welds soon
What thickness of metal, wire size, and position are you practicing on?
@@nicholassullivan1239 1/8" mild steel sheets and 1.5mm galvanized square steel tube, using 0.035 flux core wire. About position, I don't know, but I definitely don't have a fixed position for welding, I just chose whatever feels comfortable at the moment, trying to have the gun at a 45° angle
Keep practicing with that then move up to a Lincoln 140 mig with a argon tank!!! It will change your life!! Trust me that’s what I did
He said "corn diarrhea" hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Gun angle is important, I usually go no more then 15 degrees unless I need to in tight spots.
Lots of welding videos out there. But this is one of Mancubs best. I used this to dial in my cyclone 200e
I was getting ready to say man I used the wrong settings but then you got to the gas difference and spray transfer and it made more sense because where I welded we always used a gas mixture
I’ve watched plenty of Mig videos and must say I enjoyed this one. Thanks for the pointers.
Excellent Demo I hope to improve my welding and write the setting down, Thanks Miguel
Great video thanks. I’m having trouble with .134 wall 1-5/8” od mild steel tubing. Since 3/4 of the weld is vertical or over head I keep getting puddle dripping . Looks fine on a flat bench weld for that thickness. Garbage around the tube. Thanks.
that was a fantastic video. the camera capturing the weld puddle so clearly, the bacon sound, that all helped me understand so much. and on top of that some great settings to use. too bad i have a gassless mig and only two settings for wire speed etc. but still very helpful nonetheless.
working good thanks for the tips,I started welding at 16 years old in a local welding shop back in 1976,, ECT, pointers.
Only way to set a mig is by listening to it..
Old Machinist and I've noticed the same "Bacon" sound taking a cut on a Lathe.
What if you are deaf?
Use the 1 amp per .001 thickness method. Try to add 5-15 amps on top of it
Great info! Sometimes I just pull the trigger and turn volts or wire speed simultaneously until it sounds right! Quick n easy
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I HAVE HAD MY EVERLAST LIGHTNING 275 SINCE JANUARY AND I HAVE BEEN BEGGING EVERY CHANNEL I KNOW TO DO SMALL SHEETMETAL.... NOW IF YOU COULD DO TIG(THE SAME EXACT WAY), I WOULD SHUT UP AND WELD!!!! THANKS BROTHER!!!!
hey chat, i have a 275. running .035 wire. did the 1.6 conversion for amps. his numbers don't match up. 18v on 22 gauge is instant burn through. i have a good map now of settings for .035. what are your findings with the 275? how are you enjoying it?
@@spinalfusionshop I love the welder.... but yeah I agree on the 1.6.... I am using .023 wire
Basic heat settings with tig is 1amp per .001". Example 1/8"steel plate would be .125" so 125amps for heat is a good start.
Great video production and camera work. The instructions were very good. Coming from a stick and TIG background I needed this help. Now to pick out a machine for an upcoming project.
Great video. The only everlast 315 video I've seen! I'm curious about the arc force knob. I recently purchased the same machine.
Very helpful !!! Can you also drag on a 1/4" mild steel tee joint ? Can you do also do a demonstration on a 1/4" mild steel butt joint using Mig please ?
Would like to see a list like this for using Blue Demon 308 flux core for stainless steel. Thanks Ron
I’m loving my new everlast mts lightening 225!
Me too 😊
Por favor, pongan subtitulos en español para el mundo hispano que vemos sus videos y tenemos equipos Everlast.
Great video and absolutely the BEST video quality I have see. Your exposure is perfect which is very tricky with welding of any kind. Great work. Thank you!
I just found this channel and i just want to say thank you. I just never could find the right settings the settings it comes with never sounded like bacon now my welder is sounding like bacon thanks again
Sweet, I just got my 1st MIG and man I am atrocious, but hey we have to start somewhere :) Thanks for a great TT
So very helpful. Thank you. I've done a wee bit of welding on MIG and TIG machines I'm allowed to use, but have just acquired the first machine I can call my own -- a three year old, never even turned on, Everlast i-MIG 200. Your video gave so many good hints and explanations.
This machine came with a small spool of 0.023, and a smallish 84cf bottle of 75/25 argon/co2. Two questions: (#1) What is main impact of using straight CO2 (or you said 90/10) vs. 75/25 Ar/CO2? (#2) Can I use this i-MIG 200 (with heavier wire) for t-joints on 3/8 bar? or 5/16?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Wow. Nice welds.
Would the settings be the same for flux mig welds no gas?
Best mig settings vid I've seen! Subscribed
you are very professional sir,,,,... welder from philippines
How much does 75/25 arco2 blend change these figures. Thanks this was very helpful and timely! My imig 275s thanks you
Generally you subtract .5-1 volts for 75/25.
@@everlastgenerator thank you
I came to ask this question, nice to see it's already been asked and answered. Also very nice to see all these videos that have been uploaded over the last year.
Time to finally figure out how to put my PowerMIG 200 to use.
@@everlastgenerator good to know, I have a 252 STi, but I dont use it often enough to remember good settings, and I don't believe the manual has any to start off with.
I know this is mig . I'm learning mig tig and stick for steel and stainless. This 1 issue I keep having is getting my angles correct. Any tip of how to correct this . Seems everyone answer is time but if I dont fix it then time will not help. My welds are mostly correct good height and penetration.
Already printed it out and stuck it on the side of my Everlast!!
Something that I don't hear mentioned these videos is the fact that lengthening your stick out will increase your voltage. So when you are welding try increasing and decreasing your stick out and that will tell you which way to go on your settings. If it improves with more stick out then you need more voltage or less wire . The opposite if it improves with less stick out . This eliminates moving in the wrong direction
stick out meaning away from the metal and stick in closer to metal? is that what you mean with stick out?
@@Ryan_Atomic stick out is the distance between your contact tip and the arc or the length of wire sticking out between the two when welding .
@@Ryan_Atomic I was refurring to mig welding
@@Ryan_Atomic stick out is the length of wire between your contact tip(not nozzle end)and the metal. it is increased by pulling away from the metal, and decreased by moving closer. In general, your stickup with solid wire should be very short---3/8 inch or less. With flux core wires, polarity is generally opposite(dcen) and sickouts are much longer(up to 2 inches in some cases) to allow more of the wire to preheat and melt the flux before it is vaporized in the arc. I believe Joe is incorrect about voltage.....MIG is a CV or constant voltage process......voltage remains the same whether stickout is long or short, but with increasing stickout, the circuit has more resistance, so the amperage drops with increased stickout. you will notice this as a change in the arc sound as you pull further away from the workpiece. usually it starts popping, telling you to shorten your distance. the contrary is also true...if you shorten your distance the frying bacon sound may begin to be a steady hiss sound(spray transfer sound).
Joe Dirt This changes amperage, not voltage, if your amperage (or wire feed) is too high, further away from your work will be better, so decreasing your amperage will fix this.
Thank you man. Very educational. It reminds me again about that bacon sound setting. Respect.
This is exact what I needed to see. Great information. Thanks.
This is very helpful... what would have been more helpful was the screen you added on your 200 amp mig (i-mig 200 e) after I bought mine... I have to count the ticks and approximate 18.5v and 149ipm on dials that don't tell me what they do... Are the dials - labeled 1-10 - linear with the ranges in the owners' manual?
So would this be called dragging or pushing because it actually looks like its in-between both?? Beautiful job by the way 👍
in most cases it is recommended to push when mig welding
Awesome video mancub...very helpfull indeed .
What a great video! This will save tons of dialing-in time, thanks for sharing!
I have a question I have a everlast MTS 252 and I'm using synergy mode can you possibly make a video how to adjust wire and voltage speeds on this type of machine it's very confusing I'm new to this machine I'm new to welding
I'm a little late to the party but any chance you could do this with a lincoln welder that has no digital gauges, just the letters and numbers for adjustment? This was a great video and I will be adapting these techniques to a lincoln sp125, some not all, having a digital gauge seems to be really nice.
It won't work that well. That style of control should come with a look up chart. Usually under the lid where the wire spool is. That will get you very close then make minor adjustments from there. If you don't have anything on the machine Lincoln has all the old manuals online.
you can convert your letters/nubers to inches per minute(IPM) by pulling the trigger for 6 seconds and then measuring the inches of wire and multiplying that length by 10x
Absolutely, I welded with MIG (and many others have!) for years and still dont take any notice of the digital readout, just play until you get the frying bacon and the good weld bead characteristics. You will then be adjusting in small increments depending on weld type (overhead, down, up etc) and metal thickness. Also where possible (if right handed) weld from right to left (pushing) so you can see the weld pool properly.
Nice....!!!
Thanks for enjoyable study ✅👍✨
Any advice for fusing 10 and 18 gauge? Great video, very helpful! 👍
No hi by
Aim the majority of the heat (mig wire)at the thicker material. If using TIG, aim the arc at the thicker material.
what a nice sounds .....beautiful....THANKS MATE AND GOD BLESS
Yo you killed this class
Can you do a mig crash course ie setting up you welder. Im having hard time learning how to std mig and Synegic mod i have a mts 252 Everlast welder.. for thin sheet metal for autobody..
This is the video I've been looking for! Thanks
Please could you make a video on Flux core Settings for any Thickness too??
Thanks for letting us know that. Good lesson
I just closed my eyes and listened to this for a while.
on thin stuff, try and run hot and slightly push weld. It will flatten right out and use less wire and less heat on base metal.
Can you do a video on .045 wire and dual shield Thanks
Will these settings work on other welders like miller?
Say your connecting 2 different thicknesses of metal. Maybe .090 to .185 ? Is it correct to set speed & voltage for the .090 & weld in the middle ? Or, would I try to set the speed & voltage for the .185 and try to weld more on the side of the thicker pcs. ??
Thanks for your consideration,
Sincerely ...............
Para los calibres 5/16 y 3/8 " es aconsejable aplicarle en transferencia spray ya que son de mayor espesor parámetros entre 26 y 28 voltios con unos 280 0 300 ipm.
Fantastic lines! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video,thank you very much. I am surprised your good weldings with Co2!
So did you leave your Gas on 25CFH thro all of those different Thicknesses? Also, exactly what type of Gas were you using? You said C02, were you running 100% C02?
I’ve always ran 75/25 when Mig Welding
Any chance you could do a video on .045 LA-100 wire?
I’ve been using it at work for a while with no training, I’ve gotten used to it but would like to know how a pro would use it.
I get mixed info from my coworkers. Some say to lower my IPM and increase my voltage and others tell me to crank up both.
The material I’m welding is pretty thick, ranging from 1.5in up to about 5in.
I typically run my IPM around 350 and I have my settings set to trim instead of volts. I run my trim around .98.
My welds aren’t defective or anything I would just like them to look a little prettier
have you searched for the manufacturers data sheet? good place to start....they will often have a tech support that you could email a question to.
A good welder has a ear for the sweet sound of a mig.
You like the sound of farts?
Thanks very much for your time and yeah it' is so 👌 productive 📹 🎥 video
Do the settings change if you are pushing?
what tip movement do you suggest? Cursive cccccc or iiiiiiii or ooooo etc
Thank you sir I should of took a welding class years back rebuilding a 4x4 truck that would of helped.
Great video,and thx for sharing,very useful
Will this work for stainless?
Will the same settings work with argon?
What’s the name of the tool used in the beginning to determine metal gauge and wire size?
best video ever! thank you so much!!!!!
You deserve more likes.
Hope it is useful,good job
What kind of camera using
Thank you for the info!💚💚💚
Easy to understand...thanks...
Would like to know what setting you use on the burn back setting Thanks Ron
LOL burn back. I only use that if I have my settings nice but have issues at the start of the weld. Oh and if I am doing some random positional welding.
I have a Hobart 210MVP welder with TAP voltage settings. Lowest Tap is 19v. I have infinite WFS, but how can I weld sheet metal with 19 volts ???
he has a decent welder can we reproduce the same quality weld with the smaller cheaper welders or not
What is the type of gas used by my health friend? How is the gaź flow adjusted according to the ampere?
Very good video 👍
What can you tell me about corner to corner on 3mm steel where a bead needs to be left on the inside? Pressure vessel. Should I risk a slow hot burn on the MIGir go for more controlled fire with TIG?
why did you stack dimes on thoes thinner plates but not on thicker is the penetration better or what ?
Is that tubing, what metal classification is that? Light carbon steel ?
What is settings of 10mm plate or 3/8 sir the volts and wfs?for flat and vertical,overhead?
thanks for the video man, i appreciate it.
Great video mate.. Thanks
Should you be pre-heating the 1/4” and 3/8”?
No 1.5" 150 degrees tho 2.5 3.5 250 I think?
Excellent tutorial and video. Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
7:50 Good one ! You move forward, on the bottom side; then rotate upward; counter-clockwise.......good. That, gives the complete weld, a BASE for the dime/puddle effect, whilst still bonding both vertical/flat pieces. I always, attempt to '' work with nature ''....in any situation. Use gravity, to our works advantage. Take care, and save your eyes. Good man !
I need to rewatch and write the reference times down