Wilcom Hatch: Making a New Design from A Stitch File
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2019
- Link for free design below.
With Hatch, you can open a stitch file and turn it into a real Hatch embroidery object file. It's not instant but its also not all that hard. I'll guide you through taking a freebie design and making it more interesting.
To keep the video short, I didn't show you every thing I did to make the new version but if you have a basic understanding of the Hatch tools, you'll be able to complete a project like this yourself.
While this is a pretty basic tutorial, if you're brand new to Hatch, I'm probably a bit above your head. Watch the other Hatch videos on this channel more more basic videos. I do use a lot of hotkeys and they are annotated in the video.
Links for items mentioned in the video:
Freebie ribbon design: bit.ly/35770ls
Finished version: bit.ly/35fbHKf
Gabriola Font: bit.ly/2oUGDyu
Anatomy of a Design ebook: bit.ly/2lsy3pn
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Try Hatch for FREE! bit.ly/2KOsE7B
Get ESA Fonts, Shapes & More: lindeegembroidery.com/shop/es...
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Blog: LindeeGEmbroidery.com
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Thank you so much. I bought Hatch several years back and found digitizing from scratch isn't my thing. I like to purchase designs and tweak them. This is the first video I have seen that addresses turning stitch files into .emb files that made sense. I will need to go through it several times and am grateful you shared your original .pes file for practice. I can't wait to try it out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge😄
Great tutorial, thanks Lindee! So glad you mention that one can't use the knife tool after branching.
Your videos are the best! Lots of information and explanations of each step and “why” in the digitizing process.
Thanks Lindee xx
Thank you. Your videos are so helpful.
Thank you Lindee for another great video. I purchased Hatch earlier this week. Because of Bernina software and some others I own, I understood the majority of this. I do need to get a list of the short cut keys. Your mouse symbols and notations on the videos are extremely helpful.
Thank you. I like learning more about editing stitch files.
Thank you ! That was very helpful.
This was a great video! Many do videos about creating designs from scratch, but there are not many videos like this. I wanted to just increase the width of a satin border in a design I purchased, and I couldn't figure out how to do it. I'm still not sure how to do it, but I'm not very good at hatch yet!
Even after you convert a satin border to objects, it can be difficult to make it wider. You can add compensation but that should only be done in fractions of a mm. To properly widen the column, you'd need to adjust the nodes on either side. If you need to widen it quite a bit, convert it to objects and redigitize just that section.
This border needs to probably be quite a bit wider and definitely needs more overlap. I did a test sew on a stretch cotton and then sewed on a hoodie with a different fabric content (with a lot of stretch). I did not have any fabric that was the same, so I did my best. I did not hoop the sweatshirt (floated), which was probably a mistake. The result was loss of registration, and the satin border looking 50% smaller (and imo was already too small). I bought a new sweatshirt, and I am doing it over (less stretch). I think your idea is good, and I may just move away the satin border and redigitize a new one with new underlay. I have no way of widening the satin border that I have unless I do it node by node. When I tried that, there were so many nodes, I couldn't even select all of them at once to increase the border evenly. I will iron on the first stabilizer this time and hoop everything. I also bought new hoop screws, because I figured out that mine were a little stripped. Sorry this was a bit long, but I am hoping it helps others with similar issues. I love your videos, and I am a new subscriber!
@@michellenaranjo4340 For stretchy fabrics, use a cutaway. The hoop is part of the stabilizing system so hoop between the rings whenever possible. Also, try using ah adhesive spray to secure the fabric to the stabilizer. I've found that on sweatshirts, you can you sometimes see a "wave" of fabric being pushed along in front of the presser foot and a spray prevents that.
@LindeeGVideos I had done all the things you suggested in this last post with the stabilization. I had 2 layers of cutaway, one fused to the fabric and the second one sprayed with adhesive onto that. I also had one layer of topper. On the new one, I also attached the topper with spray adhesive and I hooped the sweatshirt instead of floating. I purchased new hoop pins (mine were a bit stripped). I also redigitized the border successfully! I still had a tiny bit of loss of registration on the lettering (it was just showing a bit of the running stitch underlay). The lettering was done last in a dense embroidery design. I am thinking that the pull from the dense embroidery moved the fabric above just slightly. I am going to change the order so that lettering above embroiders first, and I think that might solve it. Thanks for all of your help!
You always share great info to learn!!! I like the welding and layering info you explain!! THANK YOU!!
:)
Thank you. I'm watching all your videos, to learn about using Hatch. This one was especially interesting to me.