BOOM FLAIL MOWER REVIEW! Mow Pond Bank; DISTRESSED Camera Lady!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Mowing pond back with Maschio Off-set boom mower! Tractor Time with Tim tackles the overgrown pond banks. Christy is nervous about the John Deere 2038R will end up in the pond!
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We're happy to see you made it through this project right-side up, Tim 😅
Christy, the drone footage is fantastic!
Hey! The Rim Guard makes ALL the difference! Thanks!
Rim Guard works just as well for mowers. I live on the TVA chain of lakes which means steep banks in most situations. I have a B with Rim Guard and axle extensions making it almost impossible to turn over. I set out to make this mower as stable as possible. I have a BX that I want Rim Guard in as soon as possible. It makes a difference.
@@TractorTimewithTim talk about pucker factor when you went into the rut.
Just need an old 9 foot sickle mower it’ll reach out just as far as an expensive flail mower and cut anything it will cut out a whole lot cheaper And be a lot more stable an angle
Yup Vinny with a sickle would be great
I own 2 sickle bars and agree only benefit of this would be for tree lines etc for vertical reach
exactly
Best option is to re slope your pond edge where it can be maintained easily all the way to the waters edge. A box blade is all you need slow but effective. With the tools in your tool box it should be a simple task.
Morning tim. Beautiful property. Ever try any pondside filtering plants? Also instead of mowing all the banks i would plant pollinators around it dragonflies love it and eat mosquitoes if they are an issue. Would like to see you incorporate some sustainable practices in your videos.
Yes, I could see periodic mowing to keep out brush, but I would hate to see all those rushes and sedges mowed down all the time.
Are you planting a specific sort of polinator that can handle being pondside or just any local pollinator? I have a seed pack of local pollinators I got from some local agency that I want to try out, but I hadn't thought of trying them on a pond. The pond is in the middle of a forest so I actually need to cut down the trees on the banks first.
@@SetitesTechAdventures no need to cut down trees for that. Just look for shade seed mix
Video quality and editing is really great. Chris is definitely meticulous in her work and makes these videos look so truly professional. That’s what brings a easy to watch, informative video. Kudos to you both for great presentation.
Shocked at NO intro, but ya had me watching it all! Thanks for making this, nice to see whats available.
It’s always nice to see you guys testing equipment for us. Thanks 🙏. God bless you.
In the UK most farmers would just call that a hedge cutter, as most farmers would use a scaled up version of that to cut the hedges and ditch banks on their field boundaries.
Tim, that is the most pucker feeling I’ve had in a long time. And I wasn’t on the tractor!😳lol I was going to suggest that pto link.
Great attachment but for your own safety you really need to clean up those washed out pond banks.
Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and God Bless you and your family Buddy.
I'd say dredge the banks to a manageable angle, put fabric down , then rip-rap that you can walk on easily for fishing purposes. Even create a beach area for when you want to even up the farmers tan!
I’ve not had good luck with weed barrier fabric long term, eventually the weeds win.
@@mbruce4152 I've seen some other landscapers do it and it is less maintenance. Plus if the pond is way down you can spray what little there I. Plus you need to treat the ground before you put the fabric down. Flail mower on an excavator is pretty good too, you can reach out further.
Good evening, God bless you & thank you for sharing today .
Christy is a great safety officer! Us guys not so much when we are working and wanna get the job done. Great job Tim!
Yea, you are right. I’ll probably end up in the pond sometime.
I dredged my pond, and shaped the edge to be more manageable. Then I placed rock (large limestone) extending 6'-8' into the water and 4' coming above the water. I spray along the rock every couple of weeks to keep everything in check. Looks great, saves me lots of time. I tried everything else first and failed. I also tried to put road fabric down at first to prevent the rock from sinking, but ultimately that was a waste. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice and sharing your personal experience!
If you place geo fabric down before you place the riprap stone it will help keep the grass from getting out of control.
Best idea, but $$$$. Best for long term.
Yeah, making it wider, for the lower mounts to be quick-hitch compatible, would allow them to slide the hydraulic tank further to the left to help offset the weight more of the mower's head. Don't understand why sooo many attachments aren't QH compatible, should be so easy to start there!! (I have several attachments where the top link pin is 6 inches or more too high for no reason, those will get "mount adapters" fabricated to lower the top pin to be QH compatible this fall or winter)
For pond design, we typically use a 3:1 slope, though that is steep for a tractor, 4:1 is easier for mowing though once you get above the typical water level, I would reduce it even more to 5:1. Anything steeper than 3:1 will erode way to easy (looks like you have this issue in many areas around the pond) and with a 5:1, if it is under water, will not get deep enough (fast enough) to keep vegetation from growing along the waters shallow edge. My recommendation would be to regrade the pond edge from the current water level elevation to where the "wet period" water elevation is with a 4:1 slope, then change to a 5:1 slope above that. That should limit erosion and make it easier to mow/maintain (lot of work to move that much soil be will give you spoils to fill in any eroded areas so you don't need rip-rap in those washed out areas). Just my 2 cents.
Nice mower and presentation, have a good one!!
I use a stihl power sickle [hedgetrimmer] the one on the longer pole. Its slower but it works and is a lot cheaper and a lot better then a weed whacker.
I filled the old pond in. No more issues mowing around the pond.
Sorry to hear about the blood thinners. I'm diabetic; you need to worry about right away, I just take twice as long to heal. Getting older can be a disadvantage.
My not serious suggestion for routine management of the grass levels on the slope is to pasture goats there.
My more serious idea, maybe use an excavator to skim off the sod and make the slope more gradual, and then put down driveway fabric and install a sand beach. Maybe use some pond liner powder first.
Other people have mentioned the boom sickle mower, I was going to ask if that would be more stable.
I'm in the process of buying my first tractor, so I don't know if my ideas are good ideas or not. Your videos have been helpful during the process. (Years of research, planning and thinking before the budget showed up.) Thank you
Check out some of our more recent videos about our pond. We have totally redone it.
Plant Zenith Zoysia grass around your pond. Grows extremely thick, prevents erosion, and chokes out other weeds. The downside is it will take over your entire lawn. I like Zoysia grass, it is the same grass golf courses use on their fairways. It will turn brown before your other grass in the fall and last one to turn green as well since it is a warm season grass.
I like Zoysia grass as well. Yes in full sunlight it will spread to take over and choke out most weeds and other grasses.
I like zoysia better than Bermuda personally. But Bermuda would be another good choice for around the pond (assuming you are mot opposed to either of these types of grass personally.).
For the right need(s), it looks like a great piece of equipment with a few minor improvements. The hydraulic lines were probably ran inside the 3 PH connection points to provide protection while mowing, but other options should add minimum expense.
I'd chain the pump around the drawbar/ drawbar support, before chaining to any part of the 3 point hitch. The drawbar/ drawbar support isn't going to move in relation to the pump. The three point, while you may not be raising and lowering it while running the mower, will still have some play/ movement in it.
That attachment works really well
Yep.
I mow our pond banks with either a rear mounted flail mower, my front deck on my grasshopper, or my brush cutter on my skid steer. Most often the rear mounted flail. I back straight back toward the pond to avoid any tipping issues.
YEP .. MINE HAD STEEP BANKS LIKE YOURS AND I GOT TIRED OF DOING IT WITH THE STRING TRIMMER.. SO I TAPERED BACK FAR ENOUGH THAT I CAN MOW ALONG IT 😉
These are really common in UK for hedges and bank mowing. I find the heads on the compact versions a little harder to use as you cant really afford any overlap because they're small anyway. I moved from on this size to a full size tractor one and with a little overlap you can get a nice finish relatively quickly.
Reverse function is intended so you can keep one side of the hammers/knives sharp for neat hedges (so it doesn't break/shatter the ends off everything and leaves a better finish) and run the other direction in grass where you're most likely to hit stones. Debated which direction is best, some suggest flails running "up" at the front for hedges keeps flying debris down.
You can also gently use the reverse function to get stuck grass wrapped around the rotor out, although probably best to avoid stalling the motor out.
Really surprised this doesn't appear to have any kind of stabilizer frame, usually they have an additional lock-out bar between each lower link and the tractor end of the top link. This stops the machine from rotating and lifting the RH link upwards. They're far more stable with this fitted.
It also doesn't appear to have a lockout on the 'breakback' so the mower head can swing behind you if you hit an obstacle, often the smaller machines have a fuseable link in the lower link which breaks if you hit something hard (eg, signpost on verges) but holds the mower inline with machine in normal use.
Keep up the great videos :)
This is definitely a niche product for specific need of a property. We chose the Trail Blazer front brush cutter with their hydraulic power pack that runs off our rear PTO with Kubota 3560 Grand L. A separate dealer from our Kubota dealer had it available and installed it for us after we purchased the tractor. They strapped our PTO shield a certain way so it wouldn't bend while the pump is operating. Let me know where I can send you a picture and I'll show you how they did it.
Also on ours, the standard hoses are too tight for either a quick hitch or even the Pats easy change system. We would have to get longer hoses to make either work. The good news is we have a hydraulic top link to help on connecting and adjusting when mowing on hills.
I haven't used the offset feature yet, but I agree with you that you can't have much slope to still be safe.
I like to be out front on mowing hills. I have just gone up and down the small pond bank which worked just fine. You just have to go slow to be stable. Also we like the width of 48 inches so we can keep more trees up in our wooded areas while looking forward.
Enjoyed watching this demo!
I don't understand why there are no skids/shoes, to keep the thing from scalping/diggin-in as it goes. Seems impossible to control the cut depth at all, as the tractor bounces through uneven ground. Likewise, erosion ruts really bounce the flail mower when the tractor hits them.
These are not meant to leave in a float position. You pick a height and stay at it for undulating terrain like this. You can put it in float if it's a well maintained and sloped area like a drainage or irrigation ditch.
You should put it on the LX3310 Tim and see how it does!!
It did a great Job!!! Maschio equipment is always top notch quality
You have to be mindful of the camera lady pucker factor! Very cool mower. I think the pond project should be moved up the priority list🙂
Yea…should be moved up. We seem to have trouble achieving ANYTHING on the list!!!
Nice pond and the mower worked nice. The only thing I see is the bank is so steep and the pond looks only a foot deep. But it depends on what you use the pond for.
Yep. Pond needs work.
Hate to say it, but I jumped ship to get my pond bank mowed. I bought an older scag turf tiger and put some carlisle hd field trax tires on it last spring. The mower was $3500 and the tires were 125 each and the combo works perfectly! Even with the undulations in your pond bank I can get right to the waters edge up to 45degrees ! I'm surprised Vinnie can't mow it??? Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!
I think the ventrac would’ve made it look nicer. But it would work nice for roadside ditches.
As for the holes, you could use the ventrac’s tiller and till up those spots or even go all the way around to see if you can smooth it out.
how the hell would a ventrac mow as close to the pond as that boom mower is doing? It would sink up instantly or go into the pond. There's a reason they make boom mowers.
@@verteup have you not seen it mow banks before? Ntm the ventrac has a boom mower, could get much closer, and sits much lower and has a wider footprint. It would do way better in regards to this job. Maybe you should educate yourself before you start bumpin your gums over there buddy.
@@Zanderthelab I believe me and you have watch different videos. I don't believe there's any way a ventrac couldve mowed what he did with that boom mower. You realize he had that boom mower in water right? Like...in the water. Do ventracs float like a kayak?
@verteup is this a challenge? The Ventrac boom mower should be able to mow further than this one. Maybe I’ll take that challenge!
@@TractorTimewithTim Try it. If the ventrac has a boom mower. I thought it was just mounted to the front of the ventrac and didn't have any excavator type arm on it.
I use rubber bungee cords to hold PTO shafts up while I'm trying to hook them up. You have to have the right length and sometimes need a couple but they really do help when you need 4 hands.
Great video just from watching you hit some of those ditches I had a little pucker factor going on I can see where it may not be for everyone but I can see where it would be handy for sure
LOVE that size tractor. Great video!
The drone footage makes a huge difference.
I have pull ring back as I shove the arm forward. So I got the magic connectors - PTOLink - I have them and they work !
Honestly, a string trimmer would be easier. That is what I use on my pond. If you keep up with it, it goes quickly.
Same here, I have a hydraulic adjustable flail mower, but I can mow my pond bank faster with string trimmer. I use the flail mower for other applications.
They need a bar mounted to the pump that hits against the drawbar. Our old new Holland swathes had one. The chain was mounted to the end of tat par and wrapped around the drawbar and hooked back to itself.
Looks like it worked good Tim.
im not a big flail mower fan but great i love it
Got a little scary on the banks. I was getting concerned when the left rear wheel came off the ground.
hey Tim i work at a deere dealership as an ag tech next time you look for a tractor look at a 4066r with hydraulic top and tilt, your 3 point lift links are hydraulic allowing down pressure or grade adjustment when using a blade
That would be a good video with Dirt Perfect on a pond fix. That looks like a interesting attachment. Great Video.
I picked up the Mashio articulating flail [live on a hillside] (Thanks Tim for talking me into spending that $ on more toys!) and it came with 'Hammer Blades'. The Hammer style blades clogs up with horse shoe shaped grass clods (around the hammers) easily and have to be removed every 15 min or so. The 'Y Blades' seem to do much better on grass. Glad to see the drone back! Birds Eye video works pretty well for these videos!!
Interesting. I just ignore the grass clumps on the hammers!
@@TractorTimewithTim I've noticed if I leave the grass clumps on, the grass will strip off the grass talks and leave a mess. not a good cut quality. - Probably not the best tool for cutting thick grass but it does a decent job helping to trim driveway and steep parts
Watched another video they reworked the pond slope a lot of work but when it was done he cut the pond bank with johnny v with front mower it was a great looking pond yours would be a great looking pond
I have an 8.5 acre pond and I use a puruzzo ditch bank mower. I thing the cutting head is 84 inches and it extends out 12 feet. It is all my 91 HP kioti can handle. Need a bucket of gravel for counter weight
It's nice to see the drone footage again. Looks like the mower needs a counter balance.
The mower works good on the pond bank, just need to fill in the washouts to eliminate those tippy pucker moments. 😆
Buy a LST (landing craft for assaults...) put the tractor in and motor around the pond. Sounds simple and fun.
I am using the McConnel Arm with hammer heads it is much easier to run than what’s shown here. It swings back by hydraulic automatic if you get stuck down in ground or an obstacle. Control is with a little joystick allowing you to work all cylinders in single controller. I had the same issue with stability JD 4 series tractor and I solved it by changing the tyres to 600/40-22.5 providing much needed stability on the slopes and flotation in the softer soils. Also the hammers enable you to take on brush and small trees.
That was a interesting piece of equipment. Balance balance balance is important.
Hey Tim, for the cuts, if you haven't already tried, a styptic pencil may help with bleeding.
A boom mower does have its place I could use one along the road ditch because its so deep. My Yanmar YT235 and offset flail mower do a good job for the most part, I think its my driving abilities cause more issues then the equipment. I did put a set of 2" wheel spacers on the tractor for a total of 4" wider did not think it would make a difference but it does. And yes the wash outs going into my creek cause me some "Oh Crap" moments also. I think the hammers do a better job then the Y-knifes do but that is just my opinion. Thanks for sharing I've learned alot watching your videos and because of your videos is the reason I even started looking at a offset flail mower and I'm happy I got one. Although I did get a Tar-River which is not the top of the line mower but it is a good mower, with some weak points, mostly in the gearbox and belt drive, it just the way they are mounted. Thanks again
That is just the nuts for the pond and ditch banks etc. I too suffer from the PTO hook ups. All my PTO attachment shafts are the “pull back and hold, then push on” type, and then deal with the quick hitch as well. I also pull back and hold with the water pump pliers to align and wrestle it on. It is still somewhat a pain. I’ve seen PTO link, but I guess I balk at the price, however….I’m “old”…Mmmm? Blessings.
2 things I noticed is it might be easier to back up close put the pto on back up and attach the 3pt and it loo,s like a 4 way valve so your hand doesn't have to move it as much
Great video Tim. Could be a good addition to brush hog work for roadsides and ponds
I just run my 60" swisher pull behind finish mower cuts the steep banks and the fields just fine.
as far as choice if i had a pond it would be this set up or ventrac sickle bar mower.
I have a very similar italian flail (Rinieri BRF350), I noticed that yours was swinging about a bit on the 3 point hitch, I use stabalizer bars on mine which can be a bit tricky to fit but make it ridgid on the rear. I was also recommended to make and fit a plexi glass screen to protect me from any stone kick-up of heaven forbid a loose flail. They are heavy units, from memory I think mine is 760lbs and a tractor weight of at least 2,000lbs is recommended. With individual controls for each of the hydraulic pistons, rather than a joystick control, it took me a couple of hours use to become proficient at using it. However it is a great tool.
I discussed this a bit later..and tightened my stabilizer chains.
I have some difficult and steep areas to maintain on my property. I mow, what I can, with my tractor; the remainder with a push lawnmower and or string trimmer. In your situation I would do the same and where necessary walk in the pond with a string trimmer. Affordability is an issue for me. Best wishes.
Am i doing the Wilson , that was a good one!🤣🤣🤣
No were talking tim mcconnell and spearhead here in ireland and britain do a compact range u can get saw heads and a hedge cutting head for them i myself will be getting a spearhead compact to put on a jd 4400
I think the scalp setting works well.
I think the snark setting works well.
Some of those wash outs could be fixed by installing a drain to collect the water and safely lower it to the pond
Could use a wheel on each side of that mower to keep it level and from digging in.
I have a Twose boom mower a larger version of yours. My pump is mounted to the unit and has a pto shaft like a regular implement. My worst pto connector is on my inverted snow blower it has two pins to push to connect or disconnect on opposite sides of the coupler.
Mine wants solid stabilizers running from the tractor top link pin area down to the lift arms pins these eliminate much of the slop and tilt of the tractor arms. On pto mounted pumps I like to put a stabilizer bracket on the drawbar to chain to, just piece of flat stock with a U shaped bracket and a draw pin hole to locate it.
Any boom arm mower can create a lot of pucker factor quite easily and rapidly.
When you go to fix the pond; you could incorporate a beach on the one side so you'll be prepared when you have grandkids.
For steep slopes you could run a dual wheel on the right side
I believe there would be less of a "pucker factor" with the Ventrac and the boom mower! LOL
Noticed a lot of gouging at the beginning of the video. I guess with the washouts and bumps it's inevitable. Maybe some type of adjustable wheel or skid plate on the mower head to go with the float function to keep it a minimum distance off the ground?
That looks like the ideal solution for mowing the edge of a pond or ditch, where the offset is too far for an offset flail mower.
How does it handle getting snagged on an object like a hidden stump or rock?
Does it have some sort of spring loaded feature where it safely flexes rearwards, or better yet, raises at the same time due to geometry?
What happens if you are backing up and get snagged on a hidden stump?
I don't have a pond that I mow around, but my neighbor does. In his case he modified the banks a couple of years ago to make them much steeper, reducing how much sloped area there is to mow. I don't think he specifically did it for mowing but I believe a regular offset ditch flail mower could handle it.
Although you could do the same as my neighbor, if you've got that impressive 32" boom arm mower available, why not just keep using it?
He currently has a young and healthy landscaping maintenance contractor that he hires to mow the bank using a regular whipper snipper.
Wish I could've been there, since I run a boom mower at work, maybe give you some pointers. As for the PTO link, I have it and it helps me because I have a quick hitch and it gives me back the 4 inches or so that you lose with regards to the pto shaft. I didn't have to buy a new shaft for my mower or brush hog.
Seems like getting that level or tipped back a bit would really help scalping and digging in. Allows that back roller to set the height.
Yes.
Thanks for demoing this mower, I have a lot of road bank that I could use this on, so they make a bigger version ? I got a 4720 Deere
Hey Tim: I was thinking of the PTO Link before you got to it. I did have an idea for ya to help keep your shield from bending. I have a Kubota that has a draw bar mounted below the pto. Could you use the draw bar without a ball to chain the pump to so it doesn't spin with the pto? That might keep the chains out of the guard shield. I wish more implements had pumps like this so small tractors could use them that dont have the gpm requirements.
It's a shame the manufacturer doesn't provide some way of putting counterweights on a platform, say suitcase weights, on the opposite side away from the arm and cutter. Possibly make these weights hydraulically mobile to extend out to the tractor's left as needed by the operator's pucker factor. Of course, this might not be usable along roads, but you never know what a safety truck, your pickup with emergency flashers on, following behind the tractor/flail mower would do for the whole process.
Yes, a simple weight bracket would help :-)
That pucker factor almost got ya turned over. Definitely need to fill in the ruts around the pond.
Tim, I am in Nashville with John Deere for a 5 series focus group. Thought of you. It’s fun
That is cool! Would love to hear more about it!
Works really well. Would be very easy to use a trimmer to do the fine edging!
Grading the ditch sounds better - add some top soil and grade with bucket to move smooth - it’s better than adding rip rap and grass growing in between(then you will end up adding geotextile to avoid - so top soil and grading sounds economical)
Tim you should get a hold of dirt perfect maybe he would have a way to fix your pond he makes lots of them
Tim,, another 5 ⭐ video, and as far as the pond that looks like a Dirt Perfect or Letsdig18 project hint hint would make an awesome video. Anywhoo God bless y'all from Gaffney South Carolina viewer 🙏❤️💯
i wish they had just a bit smaller one that a 1025 could handle safely. sure would make cleaning the ditches out much easier.
This looks like a good mower to trim back tree branches and weeds along a fence row. Just angle the cutter head perpendicular.
Running the flail in reverse is great for unblocking the flail if it gets wound up with say brambles or vines. When I have the unit disconnected from the tractor, I slip a length of rebar through the tubular feet to make it more stable. I use mine to deal with a mile of hedge and a number of grassy slopes.
If you had the front bucket on the tractor with a bucket of dirt it. The tractor would be more stable. Also keep the loader closer to the ground. I have been operating heavy equipment for many years and I have been an instructor for over 4 years.
Y' are for grass hammers are for ditchs with scrup on them trees and bushes if uv got weights for your rear wheels have them on this flail arm would be basic but a good machine spearhead uses a joystick u can put them on the front of the tractor to oh and widen ur rear wheels tim shes to narrow at the rear sorry if if dragged on lv the vids
Don’t you think the 8-wheel drive Ventrac would have been easier by going in and out a few feet at a time? It would be a lot of forward and reversing but I’d hate to flip over like you almost did when you said “Oooh”.
Dang, son you about ended up in that pond. !!!
Wow, had me pucker factored just watching that.
You may want to give some serious consideration to putting some wheel spacer on that tractor before your next rodeo with that implement.
Wow, glad you survived .
Dang that looked scary close to flipping on you.
Great video as always .
It does have spacers.
The arm seems to hold up the tractor.
"6 of one, half dozen of the other" well then there's a statement I haven't heard in the Midwest before, I'd only heard it here in Northern New England!
My mom said that and she was from South Texas...but family originally from Missouri.....and I still say it when appropriate
How well does it cut. Zoom in so we can see quality of cut.
This attachment would be very handy in a lot of places for me. A bigger tractor with a sync shuttle transmission would be a lot safer and easier.
Had a Gaspardo sicklebar for fence an ditches. Currently rebuilding a Deere 730. Not exactly sure on the number
It looks like if it had wheels on the mower it wood not scalp so much. What do you think Tim....? It also looks like you need some counter weight on the opposite side of the tractor...
Yea, I would like a gauge wheel at least on the inside end.
this is really close what i am thinking of doing but i want the oil tank and pump in the back running off the pto but the boom and mower on the front of the tractor i see that mower is really to heavy lie you said i am wandering if a sickle bar like on the ven track set up would be lighter and reach out there a bit mower also when mowing a lake or pond banks like that i was told you really need to leave about 1 foot of growth around a pond lake like that to keep the geese from the pond they get in there and start poing in there and the pond will have all kinds of algae on the pond / lake
Looks like your tilling for a garden.
Good Afternoon Tim!! A good through review on the product. I was surprised you didn’t have front counter weights or Bora wheel extenders. You property is very level so running your various down sprouts to the pond does not seem feasible. You may want to pull the banks back with a backhoe or excavator, to level the banks out. I like Cliffs idea about planting various water plants which attract dragon flies to control the mosquito population. Very nice video…
I do have spacers.
@@TractorTimewithTim Good to know…Tim
Is that a mower or a rototiller? Try picking it up!
Being Italian, I'm wondering if the narrowness was initially designed to be compatible with vineyard tractors, those with a narrower chassis.