Iam think its a deal with the ground since the amps was so low it could even be an internal ground. Iam not sure if the company would know what the off power rating would be. But to be fair iam just guessing.
I tried everything I could think of except for 1 thing - running a buck converter and then a boost converter to get an isolated 12 volt source - and that seems ridiculous... I'd spent over 4 hours trying different things - more than the gauge is worth...
I've bought 3 of their nitrous pressure gauges and they all break from vibrations. Only thing good on it is the pressure sensor. I just wired it into the nos mini 2 and threw away the gauge part.
Lol dude I feel your pain. I've been distracted with an old F250 that was someone else's... Well let's just say they had a vision. Anyway I put glowshit on that because I kind of didn't want to sink all that much money. It doesn't get a lot of use, yada yada talking myself into questionable decisions (like buying this truck in the first place) and within a week one of the stepper motors glowshit the bed. Same story, send it back and they'll replace it. Offered to buy a new one and get the refund on return, nope. Can't change the color on mine, so that's a plus? Give me a buzz when you're in the area dude!
Try putting the gauge power on an isolated source (like the switched side of a relay) so there is nothing else on that wire when power is off. Perhaps it back-powers devices and drains the internal caps.
That's a thought - I did try diodes in various configurations besides the decoupling caps - no difference (tbh, mostly for balancing voltages between the two power leads). The only thing actively drawing power on that line during the tests is the memory for the radio. Eventually you just have to give up...
@@AlexLTDLX yeah…a simple test would be to just disconnect the gauge's power lead to shut it off, then wait & reconnect it, instead of using the key. Then it would be guaranteed isolated. The radio memory isn't on that circuit, because the memory wire isn't switched off. It would be the radio power that is on that circuit, and that would definitly be a draw.
I'm glad they work for you - but based on the comments here, you're in the minority. Do a google search for "glowshift problems" and look at all the posts on various forums about countless people having issues - and not just the ones I'm having. Again, though, if they're working for you, then enjoy them!
Hai Karate lol one of my neighbors growing up wore that stinking shit and drank highballs all weekend even when he was mowing the lawn! I am pretty sure he & the wife were swingers also! I had a cheap egt gauge I bought for tuning motorcycles that worked for about 3 weeks then bit the dust, everything is junk now!
Hahahah keep trying 🤣 Btw alex I know you replace your original car battery. I had the SAME issue with my glow shift boost gauge. When my battery was at the end of it's life. When I change it for a brand new one, it work perfectly well evrey time. A fully charged battery is what? 12.7? And a dead one 11.9? Anyway I don't think mine start to work by magic but maybe this can help you out!
There's actually 13.3 volts going to the keep-alive wire; the switched wire is down to ~12.5-12.6 because it has to go through the factory, 38 year-old ignition switch wiring. But the other gauges and even the EFI computer work fine off the same stuff. Some people have mentioned that the digital gauges are worse (more finicky) than the analog gauges - who knows...
@AlexLTDLX I got it working after I took a fresh look with the test light. Power to the outer terminal of the "add-a- fuse" circuit but not to the splice at the gauge harness. The Add-a-fuse has a dead slot for what I can assume is for a spare. It has 2 terminal pairs for fueses. The outer is live and the inner, where they put the new fuse at the factory is a dead slot. Gauge works good. The dimmer circuit is acting up but it could be the gauge or me. I got lucky with a previous KO power wire already ran for a previous mod( most likely the fuel chip that was removed). Good luck. Installing the gauge electrical gave me a perfect opportunity to run a leed up the pillar from the headlight switch splice to wire in some tinted cab lights my buddy gave me.
It's only .02 mA when the gauge isn't on - which I think is too low, but it is measurable. It's 132 mA only when the gauge is on - which is odd to me too.
@@AlexLTDLX I thought it was koff not on . But it would need more current for a memory. I bet you might bake it enough to resolder it or maybe hot air .
I seriously can't help but watch anything you put out
Thank you!
Is it possible the factory reversed the constant 12v wire internally? Have you tried to reverse them?
Iam think its a deal with the ground since the amps was so low it could even be an internal ground. Iam not sure if the company would know what the off power rating would be. But to be fair iam just guessing.
I tried everything I could think of except for 1 thing - running a buck converter and then a boost converter to get an isolated 12 volt source - and that seems ridiculous... I'd spent over 4 hours trying different things - more than the gauge is worth...
I've bought 3 of their nitrous pressure gauges and they all break from vibrations. Only thing good on it is the pressure sensor. I just wired it into the nos mini 2 and threw away the gauge part.
Thank you for the heads up
Lol dude I feel your pain. I've been distracted with an old F250 that was someone else's... Well let's just say they had a vision. Anyway I put glowshit on that because I kind of didn't want to sink all that much money. It doesn't get a lot of use, yada yada talking myself into questionable decisions (like buying this truck in the first place) and within a week one of the stepper motors glowshit the bed. Same story, send it back and they'll replace it. Offered to buy a new one and get the refund on return, nope. Can't change the color on mine, so that's a plus?
Give me a buzz when you're in the area dude!
These gauges seem to be plagued with issues. I definitely will hit you up when I get down there - it's at least 6 months away, though...
Try putting the gauge power on an isolated source (like the switched side of a relay) so there is nothing else on that wire when power is off. Perhaps it back-powers devices and drains the internal caps.
That's a thought - I did try diodes in various configurations besides the decoupling caps - no difference (tbh, mostly for balancing voltages between the two power leads). The only thing actively drawing power on that line during the tests is the memory for the radio. Eventually you just have to give up...
@@AlexLTDLX yeah…a simple test would be to just disconnect the gauge's power lead to shut it off, then wait & reconnect it, instead of using the key. Then it would be guaranteed isolated.
The radio memory isn't on that circuit, because the memory wire isn't switched off. It would be the radio power that is on that circuit, and that would definitly be a draw.
That's a good idea - I might try that before I reassemble it.
Are we sure the constant and switchable wires are correct?
Yes.
Thanks Alex, I will avoid that brand!
I have a total of 6 gauges and they all work flawlessly and save the color on all 6 everytime.
2.5 years old and daily drive it
I'm glad they work for you - but based on the comments here, you're in the minority. Do a google search for "glowshift problems" and look at all the posts on various forums about countless people having issues - and not just the ones I'm having. Again, though, if they're working for you, then enjoy them!
Yeah dude idk I wired mine up myself and it’s always worked completely flawlessly!
Hai Karate lol one of my neighbors growing up wore that stinking shit and drank highballs all weekend even when he was mowing the lawn! I am pretty sure he & the wife were swingers also! I had a cheap egt gauge I bought for tuning motorcycles that worked for about 3 weeks then bit the dust, everything is junk now!
Lol. And I agree - things were a bit more expensive, but they lasted longer. Now we don't even have higher quality options in many cases any more.
Hahahah keep trying 🤣
Btw alex I know you replace your original car battery. I had the SAME issue with my glow shift boost gauge. When my battery was at the end of it's life. When I change it for a brand new one, it work perfectly well evrey time. A fully charged battery is what? 12.7? And a dead one 11.9? Anyway I don't think mine start to work by magic but maybe this can help you out!
There's actually 13.3 volts going to the keep-alive wire; the switched wire is down to ~12.5-12.6 because it has to go through the factory, 38 year-old ignition switch wiring. But the other gauges and even the EFI computer work fine off the same stuff. Some people have mentioned that the digital gauges are worse (more finicky) than the analog gauges - who knows...
I almost ordered glowshift and now im not.
LOL, you clearly never had to deal with SAAS guages....
I have not. And I'll avoid them in the future, based on your comment...
Poop. I bought one of the temp and pressure gauge for my fresh rebuilt transmission. About to bench test it..
Maybe you'll have better luck than I did. The gauge works, but the color stuff is just too erratic.
@AlexLTDLX I got it working after I took a fresh look with the test light. Power to the outer terminal of the "add-a- fuse" circuit but not to the splice at the gauge harness. The Add-a-fuse has a dead slot for what I can assume is for a spare. It has 2 terminal pairs for fueses. The outer is live and the inner, where they put the new fuse at the factory is a dead slot. Gauge works good. The dimmer circuit is acting up but it could be the gauge or me. I got lucky with a previous KO power wire already ran for a previous mod( most likely the fuel chip that was removed). Good luck. Installing the gauge electrical gave me a perfect opportunity to run a leed up the pillar from the headlight switch splice to wire in some tinted cab lights my buddy gave me.
Note to self: don't buy glowshit gauges. Oh look at that, a typo! This should be filed under the Chinese product reviews playlist.
:) Oddly enough, they're based in New Jersey - the gauge itself is made in Taiwan.
I'd fix it with 250v @ 50hz .
Lol. That would certainly "fix it."
Btw high karate lmao 😂
Um... Electric turbo?
Here it is running 9s on pump gas at the track if you haven't seen it: ruclips.net/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/видео.htmlsi=0ZdGOIWMnBLk27f2
lol get banks I dash ......
Bad solder
Lol @ Scheiße
Glow shift is all shitty Chinese parts from what I heard
Oddly, they're a New Jersey based company, and I just checked the box - it says, "Made in Taiwan." Take that for what it's worth...
132 ma way too much parasitic
It's only .02 mA when the gauge isn't on - which I think is too low, but it is measurable. It's 132 mA only when the gauge is on - which is odd to me too.
@@AlexLTDLX I thought it was koff not on . But it would need more current for a memory. I bet you might bake it enough to resolder it or maybe hot air .