Great video. So useful to have the resistance values, and the different locations. Rheem didn't include any instructions with mine suction thermistor and your video made it easy for me to confirm the location and the condition of the bad thermistor. Thank!
I had a005, t005 and t009 all poping up. My water heater was pushed up against something so I had to drain it unhook everything just to get to the screw on the back of it and get a good angle being able to rotate the whole tank etc. I dont know how you got to the evaporator temp thermister, I had to take the side panel off well lift it up so I could get to it, there is NO space to work with from the top down. This is a true PITA repair. Hope you have small hands and a lot of patience. Its not HARD to do, BUT getting good angles to get off the gooey sticky gunk they put on. Also you will tear the insulation thatis around the pipes, that gunk sticks to it and when you try to peel it apart with no room to work with it just starts falling apart. I am guessing all 3 of mine were bad. I looked at all 4 temps before and after the swap out. with old thermisters: dt 186 St 67 Et 85 At 67. After dt 118 St 48.3 Et 42 and AT 63
Just got one of these codes. Reddit was helpful but this video set my mind at ease. Calling when I get home later to start the process. Thanks for posting this!
When I was working on mine, I noticed something that I see to be similar on yours. Note that at 1:56 mark, you can see the ambient air temp sensor clipped to that wiring harness, and they are both zip tied together to the discharge line that routinely gets to 170+ degrees. I replaced dT, eT, and sT, but not aT; however I tested every thermistor before I put it in, and I tested everyone one I took out. All thermistors tested good, but it was bugging me because I was consistently seeing ambient temps that were higher (low 70s) than it is in the actual room (basement, winter, wisconsin...) high 60s. My theory is that the discharge line was biasing my aT, high fooling the 'brain' into thinking there is more heat in the room to extract than there actually is and causing the compressor to overrun. I clipped that tie, and moved the thermistor about 3" to 4" away from the discharge line. It's been working fine since, aT are now showing closer to what I would expect. I'm tempted to put it back to see if I can make the error come back...
I noticed your evaporator coils on the top seem to be crushed or bent. When I took the cover off mine to change the thermistors it was the same way. I seen a few more on RUclips that were crushed also, not sure if it’s something that’s normal or if it’s damaged ?? Thanks for doing the video it was very well done 😊
Et thermister went bad again 10 months later. Something about the moisture from the line being so cold causes the thermistor to get wet and corrode. They sent me three, sounds like this may be a yearly maint thing.
Thanks for the update. I wonder if the thermistor is wrapped tightly with cling wrap after install but before putting back the insulation, it will help this problem?. This will prevent it from coming in contact with air/moisture via the loose fitting insulation.
@@JR-qq1qe im' not sure if plastic wrap would be a good idea, but what about hvac aluminum tape? ... I replaced the thermistor today amazing how much easier it is second go when you can reach the screws, not have to empty everything and there isn't that insane glob of sticky paste. The thermistor I replaced, looks exactly like the last one did when it needed to be replaced. Clear corrosion anywhere it wasn't in contact with the clip. So the pipe side had a corrosion line and the edges where it stuck out of the clip. (in other words anywhere moisture would of been able to touch it directly.) Once replaced insteads in the 80's, it was in the 50's. Its almost as if it starts reading backwards, the colder it gets the warmer it reads. pretty funny. All fixed now (again).
Yes, aluminum tape or electrical tape wound tightly after installing the Evap Thermistor would be better than cling wrap. Maybe they had the sticky gunky tape before for the same reason; to prevent contact with air/moisture.
A005 (Discharge temp too high) and T132 (water heater difficulty satisfying demand) popped up. The water heater was not heating in Energy Saver mode, had to switch to all electric element for heat. Evaporator Coil was freezing up. Filter and coil very clean. So, ran diagnostics ( ruclips.net/video/sKdfm1RVPaQ/видео.html). Showed dt=120, st-66, et=116, at= 69. Removed and checked resistance of dt, st, et thermistors. et (evaporator thermistor) was out of spec (13 mega ohms instead of 10 kilo ohms), dt and st were within specs. This is the second time I am changing the Evap thermistor in two years !!!!. Solved the problem. No freezing coils. Heat good. new measurements dt=104, st=53, et=54, at=62. Looks like maintenance should include running diagnostics every six months and checking et temperature, if it looks like it is too high (more than 100??), remove evap thermistor, measure resistance, and change it. This time around, I put a small separate piece of insulation over the thermistors so that I can just remove them and check/ change them as needed. Also, put back only one of the 10 screws to make removal/changing easier.
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Great video. So useful to have the resistance values, and the different locations. Rheem didn't include any instructions with mine suction thermistor and your video made it easy for me to confirm the location and the condition of the bad thermistor. Thank!
I had a005, t005 and t009 all poping up. My water heater was pushed up against something so I had to drain it unhook everything just to get to the screw on the back of it and get a good angle being able to rotate the whole tank etc. I dont know how you got to the evaporator temp thermister, I had to take the side panel off well lift it up so I could get to it, there is NO space to work with from the top down. This is a true PITA repair. Hope you have small hands and a lot of patience. Its not HARD to do, BUT getting good angles to get off the gooey sticky gunk they put on. Also you will tear the insulation thatis around the pipes, that gunk sticks to it and when you try to peel it apart with no room to work with it just starts falling apart. I am guessing all 3 of mine were bad. I looked at all 4 temps before and after the swap out. with old thermisters: dt 186 St 67 Et 85 At 67. After dt 118 St 48.3 Et 42 and AT 63
Just got one of these codes. Reddit was helpful but this video set my mind at ease. Calling when I get home later to start the process. Thanks for posting this!
When I was working on mine, I noticed something that I see to be similar on yours. Note that at 1:56 mark, you can see the ambient air temp sensor clipped to that wiring harness, and they are both zip tied together to the discharge line that routinely gets to 170+ degrees. I replaced dT, eT, and sT, but not aT; however I tested every thermistor before I put it in, and I tested everyone one I took out. All thermistors tested good, but it was bugging me because I was consistently seeing ambient temps that were higher (low 70s) than it is in the actual room (basement, winter, wisconsin...) high 60s. My theory is that the discharge line was biasing my aT, high fooling the 'brain' into thinking there is more heat in the room to extract than there actually is and causing the compressor to overrun. I clipped that tie, and moved the thermistor about 3" to 4" away from the discharge line. It's been working fine since, aT are now showing closer to what I would expect. I'm tempted to put it back to see if I can make the error come back...
I noticed your evaporator coils on the top seem to be crushed or bent. When I took the cover off mine to change the thermistors it was the same way.
I seen a few more on RUclips that were crushed also, not sure if it’s something that’s normal or if it’s damaged ?? Thanks for doing the video it was very well done 😊
Outstanding Sir!
Awesome video thx for the details...did that fix your problem??
Et thermister went bad again 10 months later. Something about the moisture from the line being so cold causes the thermistor to get wet and corrode. They sent me three, sounds like this may be a yearly maint thing.
Thanks for the update. I wonder if the thermistor is wrapped tightly with cling wrap after install but before putting back the insulation, it will help this problem?. This will prevent it from coming in contact with air/moisture via the loose fitting insulation.
I found this video about running diagnostics on the unit without waiting for it to fault. ruclips.net/video/sKdfm1RVPaQ/видео.html
@@JR-qq1qe im' not sure if plastic wrap would be a good idea, but what about hvac aluminum tape? ... I replaced the thermistor today amazing how much easier it is second go when you can reach the screws, not have to empty everything and there isn't that insane glob of sticky paste. The thermistor I replaced, looks exactly like the last one did when it needed to be replaced. Clear corrosion anywhere it wasn't in contact with the clip. So the pipe side had a corrosion line and the edges where it stuck out of the clip. (in other words anywhere moisture would of been able to touch it directly.) Once replaced insteads in the 80's, it was in the 50's. Its almost as if it starts reading backwards, the colder it gets the warmer it reads. pretty funny. All fixed now (again).
Yes, aluminum tape or electrical tape wound tightly after installing the Evap Thermistor would be better than cling wrap. Maybe they had the sticky gunky tape before for the same reason; to prevent contact with air/moisture.
@@JR-qq1qe yeah but it clearly didn't work. I'm guessing that glob is to ensure it doesn't fall off during shipping and handling.
A005 (Discharge temp too high) and T132 (water heater difficulty satisfying demand) popped up. The water heater was not heating in Energy Saver mode, had to switch to all electric element for heat. Evaporator Coil was freezing up. Filter and coil very clean. So, ran diagnostics ( ruclips.net/video/sKdfm1RVPaQ/видео.html). Showed dt=120, st-66, et=116, at= 69. Removed and checked resistance of dt, st, et thermistors. et (evaporator thermistor) was out of spec (13 mega ohms instead of 10 kilo ohms), dt and st were within specs. This is the second time I am changing the Evap thermistor in two years !!!!. Solved the problem. No freezing coils. Heat good. new measurements dt=104, st=53, et=54, at=62. Looks like maintenance should include running diagnostics every six months and checking et temperature, if it looks like it is too high (more than 100??), remove evap thermistor, measure resistance, and change it. This time around, I put a small separate piece of insulation over the thermistors so that I can just remove them and check/ change them as needed. Also, put back only one of the 10 screws to make removal/changing easier.