You'll be fine! I'd recommend you start with painting the monsters first (probably start with the skeletons, or whatever you think would be the easiest) so you can build up your skill and work on your techniques. I'd also recommend that you study up on some basic painting techniques if you haven't yet. There are a lot of good painting channels on RUclips, but the one I watch the most is Miniac. I believe he has some good videos on the basics of painting if you don't already know them. Sorry if you know all of this already, and please disregard if that's the case! But if you don't want to look up videos, I can give you some fairly basic tips. I hope these help some: - *Thin your paints properly.* It's often said that you want your paint to be a milk-like consistency. I typically do a 1/1 paint to water mix, but it depends on the paint. GW paints almost always need to be thinned, for example. But Reaper and Army Painter paints tend to be already properly thinned. As for why you want to thin: Thinning helps your paints apply much more smoothly, it helps remove visible brush strokes, it makes your paints last longer (about twice as long), and finally, the paint will often run and flow into details, which a thicker paint would just gob up and ruin. It was legitimately like the dark ages before it became common knowledge to thin your paints! - This one I'm struggling to explain, but you'll want to anchor your hands properly to give yourself all of the support / stability that you can. A model holder is really great for this too. Usually you'll want to have both elbows down on the table, effectively making a triangle with your hands meeting at the top of the triangle, both hands supporting the other. - There's a lot more I could say, but this last one is just to enjoy yourself and don't expect perfection! If you aren't having fun or if you find yourself stressing about it, take a break and come back to it at another time. Oh, and finally, put on something fun to watch or listen to!
@@jeffjensen8 thanks for the tips :) yeah, ive watched tons of videos already. i even bought a reaper basic paint kit to help me get started. already painted the skeleton and orc that came with that, and getting ready to do the knight. skeleton was so-so, but the orc turned out nice
@@jasonw3414 That Reaper Core skills set is great if that's the one you're talking about! I actually bought one of those for myself quite a few years ago to refamiliarize myself with painting after a long hiatus. My one complaint with the kit is that the metal color mine had, (silver, I believe?) had pretty weak pigments, so I used a Citadel metallic color instead (I believe I used boltgun metal). One pretty awesome thing about the kit is that you can (hopefully!) see your skills improve from model to model. I got a barbarian model instead of a knight, so I'm not sure how much they differ, but make sure you stick through and finish it!
@@jeffjensen8 yep. got the core skills set. not only did i get it to help me get going (and i seem to be going pretty well so far. orc looks good. skeleton is so-so), but specifically BECAUSE it had an orc and a skeleton in it. theres a lot of those in heroquest!
@@jasonw3414 You sound properly prepared! If you didn't know (I didn't, until recently), there is also a "Layer Up!" kit from Reaper that expands on the painting lessons from the Core Skills one. I'm thinking I might have to pick that up to re-reacquaint myself with painting!
This is my 1st miniature painting project and loved this video. After I unboxed it, I was intimidated by the detail of the figures compared to the game I had 30 years ago. My fear is gone after watching this. Can't wait to see how you tackled the furniture!
Thanks for the paint tutorial, I learned some stuff. I have been gaming for years but only recently started getting into painting my ancient minis. To encourage new painters I will share the most liberating thing I heard from another tutorial , "mediocre is good enough". It is not an excuse for poor work but freedom to get started and enjoy the process. It is surprising how quickly 'mediocre' becomes 'really good' through practice.
I have been organizing my supplies and materials to tackle this project. Going to also be using Contrast paints for the bulk of this, so thanks for the reference. In particular I love how the Abomination came out!
I do not paint or own anything like this (I used to play HeroQuest back in the 90's with family) but am addicted to your channel and watching this hobby. Watching the process from base plastic models outta the box, to the final product / final paint job, is oddly addicting. Your other video showing the 3D HeroQuest map is amazing as well. Cheers!
For bases I sometimes put down a bit of adhesive putty and squidge it flat then use a toothpick to mark flagstones. It's a very quick way of adding detail and with a dark wash into the cracks looks very effective. Good for minis like these that are intended specifically for dungeon crawls.
This was my first time painting miniatures. I didn't use your same approach with contrast paint but I get alot of confidence watching your video and did use alot of your techniques. I just picked up a starter set of army painter with a wet pallet and love the outcome of the ones I've finished so far. Great video!
Good job being brave and diving in! I'm so glad you are happy with the outcome so I hope it encourages you to continue painting minis! You will just get better and better.
The "liche" model is/isn't the Witch Lord. In the original HeroQuest, the liche was used for a variety of characters such as the Witch Lord, Sir Ragnar, and other special minions. This model would be used as the Witch Lord for the core set, but the Mythic Tier extras include a variant model that is supposed to be the actual Witch Lord as you see in the artwork.
Thanks for the clarification! I guess you can paint it whatever colors you want then. I found the actual Witch Lord in the expansions box like you said.
I plan on Cutting all my Minis off those Flat bases and put them on Clear bases like I did my Imperial Assault, Just so much Nicer seeing them stand directly on the Floor.
For those wanting to exactly replicate the paint job, here is a list of the paints used: Games Workshop - Citadel: ------------------------- Base Retributor Armour Contrast Guilliman Flesh Contrast Gore-Grunta Fur Contrast Akhelian Green Contrast Black Templar Contrast Wyldwood Contrast Snakebite Leather Contrast Ultramarines Blue Contrast Iyanden Yellow Contrast Ork Flesh Contrast Gryph Hound Orange Contrast Militarum Green Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh Contrast Space Wolves Grey Contrast Flesh Tearers Red Contrast Talassar Blue Contrast Magos Purple Contrast Blood Angels Red Techincal Contrast Medium Shade Seraphim Sepia Shade Agrax Earthshade Shade Nuln Oil Reaper: ------- Crimson Red The Army Painter - Warpaints: ----------------------------- Metallic Plate Mail Metal Metallic Bright Gold Ink Purple Tone Ink Flesh Wash Greenskin Pure Red Alien Purple DecoArt - Americana: -------------------- Cool White Slate Grey Lamp (Ebony) Black Zink Rust-oleum - 2X Ultra Cover: ---------- Flat Black Flat White Unknown: -------- Metalic Silver Primer Medium Grey Primer
Awesome job here! You motivate me to paint more of the models I have. Also, don’t be afraid to mix contrast paints up. That Akeliean Green with space wolves grey mixed would’ve been a close color choice for that blue grey on the barbarian 🤓
Been watching your videos for a while following your 3d printed Heroquest board builds. As far as I was concerned you were the go to guy on youtube for table and board building. Subbed for sure, keep up the awesome videos!
Love the BLUE on the Abomination, totally stealing that, but im going to do Dread warriors in Gloss Black armor. Also the 2nd Gargoyle is the Warlocks shapeshift form (Going to paint it to have her color accents), but they didnt give the Druids Bear form ?
@@jesternario was relaying what I was told, you did check all the Quest books, it was to be in one of the new 3, I shipped my Mythic to Battlefoam, they are making templates for foam inserts to fit in the Boxes, IF you plan on painting yours Keep an eye out, can't wait for it to get back so I can start painting it up.
Over, NICE video, and I especially thought the black/ white contrast spray painting was clever. However, what would be REALLY helpful here is if you explained where you got the PAINTS you used in your demonstration. Did these come in a set of some type or are you expecting theses to be purchased individually????
I used Citadel Contrast Colors which I did buy individually. If I were to do it all over again, I would go the cheaper route and get Army Painter Speed Paints which you can buy in various packs. There are resources online about which Speed Paints correlate with the Citadel ones.
This is awesome - saving this video for later. I just picked up HeroQuest to play with the family but now I need to save up some cash for all this paint!
Know this content was posted a while ago but wanted to say thanks. I recently purchased the same Boxset (looking to re-live childhood glory days) and I was looking for content on painting the contents (there isn't much out there). A lot of great ideas which has given me lots of ideas. I'm definitely taking the speedpaint/ slap chop approach for the furniture. Cheers.
I bought the base game today but only have craft paint for terrain. I really love how these turned out so need to invest in some of these paints. Between that and the PLA I need for the printed board, quite the project and expense! Thanks for the tutorials!
I just primmered my 1989 pieces today to paint tomorrow. Funny how I decided after all these years today to paint my old game and first video in my feed was this one. I love this new box set would love to have this version plus the expansions which I do not have anymore. I've had a lot of fun over the years with this board game.
I think adding the red paint on the orc, maybe also a bit of gold on the sword and chest plate armor makes it much better, as having a 3 color scheme just looks to simple and doesn't draw enough attention. The abominations are fantastic though and the overall method is very time saving
I didn't even know this was a thing!!! Hero Quest is my all-time favorite game. It's what got me into RPGs and mini games. I still have the original game and the two main expansions. I had pretty much every expansion minus some stuff only released in the UK. But a house fire destroyed most of my games ages ago. I still have the original game though. I don't do Kickstarters but for this, I would have. I really hope this comes out for retail. I would buy it in a heartbeat. Nice updated sculpts. The old sculpts have what I like to call the "1980s GW squat" pose.
Oh man... I got my HeroQuest and all the add-on stretch goals i invested in, Nov '21 as well! It's on my list to paint.. along with my zombicide BP, massive darkness, and other kickstarter minis. :D Lots of painting to do.. airbrush bought... workshop being built... cant wait. :)
This is a great method. Another speed method is to prime in the dominant color (green, grey, etc). Spot color any other colors. Dip in army painter strong tone enamel, wick off excess. Spray matte sealer. It's super fast, and the models are tough as nails.
Thanks for posting this. I backed the same set as you did & I’ve been wondering what to paint the minis from the big box. Can you list those Contrast/craft paints again? I want to try to find them at my local gaming & crafting stores.
Good video, thank for the tips for the painting, will be a proyect of mine for the rest of the year and will inspire me in your figures, quite well done!!.
Hey man just want to thankyou for your content. Cuz of this channel I dropped $150 on paints and am painting my first project which is 2021 hero quest. Also seriously considering 3d printing board you recommend. Great tutorials
Are you going to make a tutorial in painting the new expansion Frozen Horror figures and the new Rogue hero? I just got them both but Im a little afriad to paint them. I based my figures with your tutorials coz I loved how they came out and I would love to see how you paint the new figures, so if you can please make it would be really appreciated, thanks
Sorry but I did not purchase the Frozen Horror expansion. I'm positive that there are going to be other painters who will create painting tutorials. Good luck!
It would work but the Grey Seer doesn't provide enough brightness for the contrast colors to really come through. I would drybrush white on top for a final coat if you don't want to spray it on.
I just got my retail edition order in from Entertainment Earth yesterday! I also pre-ordered Keller's Keep and Witch Lord, but I am sweating bullets worrying if they will sell the Mythic Edition figures. It would really suck to lock those new classes, monsters and quests behind a limited-time campaign! I didn't know about it a year ago! I didnt even know about the Knight hero expansion, which somehow sold out around the time I placed my EE order. It never popped up when I searched for everything Heroquest at the time.
Great content. You're the first one I've seen record any sort of painting with the new miniatures. Do you think there will be any new 3d print designs available for the expansion board overlays? Would look a bit out of place covering a wonderful board like yours with a 2d overlay. Any ideas for 3d trap tiles as well?
Do you mean from Dragon's Rest? He has scaled furniture included in the dungeon files, although I grabbed the torture rack and sarcophagus from Kraken Studios.
@@gaminggeek241 Yeah, from Dragon's Rest. I'm not referencing the furniture but the replaced sections of the board to go with the Kellars Keep and Witch King expansions. The Witch King one is a floor with a skull for example. And the trap tiles I was referring to were the trap doors and pits. I have found some that might work on Thingverse.
While it may not be in stores (retail), Hasbro Pulse did release pre-orders for the base game yesterday. So I'm hopeful that the expansions follow in time. I'd love for them to produce the impossibly difficult to obtain expansions (Barbarian Quest, Elf Quest, Wizards of Morcar, & Against the Ogre Horde.)
Great tutorial very helpful thank you for taking the time to create such an informative and helpful video I like how you offer great tips and options! beautiful paint jobs btw
That's a mini holder from Games Workshop. There are a lot of options out there--honestly, you can just use some sticky tack and some corks or pill bottles.
Because most miniature paints are acrylic, they won't crack but will flex. I've never had issues with paint coming off from flexing. In fact, with plastic miniatures and a good coat of clear varnish, I've never had paint come off a mini--with metal ones I have from a lot of handling but not plastic.
The army painter flesh wash is designed to go over a flat basecoat of caucasian skin color, and I think it would be worth the effort to have basecoat in this instance. Otherwise the minis look pretty good.
I don't know if you noticed that you used paint/primer. Did that effect the paint when you painted them? Reason I ask is because that's the same can of primer I bought, and I thought I messed up.
@gaminggeek What would you think of priming with a gray, or possibly just white. When I see the minis up close with the contrast the black and white give a sandpaper like effect where I can see splotches of the black underneath. I haven't started painting my set yet and was curious if I should skip the black primer undercoat.
I use this primer you used all the time on 3d prints and such, but on these mini's they left them sticky and uncured in places. Did you see any of that?
Thank you for the video. It really did kickstart me painting my heroquest box. I got the same spraypaints as you but my under coat comes off so easily and is still tacky after a week. Did nice thin coats. While I'm nearly done with the player team i'm worried all my work is going to come off easily even after I do the varnish. Just curious you have no issues after all finished. I'm used to gundam models and clearcoat. So this is a different world to me. And I'm loving it.
I have had no issues with the paint remaining on. Did you try washing the miniatures with warm water, toothbrush, and a little bit of dish soap? Sometimes there is release mold remaining on the mini. Also, I use Rustoleum 2X Ultracover as my undercoating (Walmart).
I just bought the core game and I'm excited to paint everything. Since this will be my FIRST time painting miniatures and it feels like a bit of an investment, I'm a little nervous and have done my research. Some folks have said the Rustoleum primers can cause the softer plastic these minis are made of to become sticky. Have you noticed this at all? Any help is appreciated!
I can't entirely remember but if you are worried about it, you can spend a bit more money and use acrylic spray paint instead such as Pintyplus (Walmart) or Ironlak (Hobby Lobby). Even when the Rustoleum makes the minis a little tacky after I spray it, once I paint them, the tackiness goes away. Also, buy Army Painter Speed Paints as they are a cheaper alternative to GW Contrast Colors. Hope that helps!
@@gaminggeek241 Thank you for your speedy reply! I will look into those paints as well as experiment with at least one mini using the Rustoleum to see if that issue arises. Thanks for your help, and thank you for the great content!
OK so I have a question. I used your method and I've noticed even after a good few weeks of drying time my miniatures have dried very sticky after base coating with the spray paints. What have I done wrong and how do I rectify this.
@@gaminggeek241 thank you for replying. Does this happen sometimes? I've noticed others I've painted even with same based spray are not sticky at all. Very odd
@@justinstuart8382 It usually happens with softer plastics. I've had it happen every once in a while and I've found that painting over it and varnishing gets rid of the stickiness. I know some people will use brush on primer instead to avoid the issue but I'm too lazy for that!
@@gaminggeek241 oh that actually makes sense. I purchased some Hero's from a guy on Ebay he 3D printed them. They sprayed up really well and didn't finish up sticky. However unfortunately The Frozen Horror and female Barbarian did end up really sticky so I'm thinking they must be the softer plastic. They are the only miniatures from the core game and expansions I've tried to paint so far.
I was asking. Did you use the hot water and cold water technique on bent miniatures. How did it go and do you recommend it? If yes how hot should the water be to use it. I have a mythic tier heroquest set and I want to fix the dread warriors.
Yes it worked. I basically use a small bowl of water and microwave it until it is boiling a little (be careful taking it out of the microwave). It doesn't have to be that hot but since the bowl will cool down, I don't care too much. I dip the bent part for about ten seconds and then lift it out and reshape to where I want it and then run it under the cold tap water (alternative could be to have a second bowl with ice water). Yeah, the dread warriors required work at the mace head and the ankles as they were all leaning backwards! I have no plans to place the minis back into the plastic trays as that seems to have warped them in the first place.
How do you feel about the quality of the models? I haven't recieved my copy yet but Im undecided whether I like them. Detail wise, it's not GW quality but most seem okay/good (Love the new Evil Sorcerer) but the Orcs look really rough from what I've seen. The mold lines look particularly egregious as well.
this video inspires me to start painting my minis now. Got HQ mythic, nemesis and some misc minis for other games i want to do now. is there a list of brushes you recommend to start with?
Honestly, I buy the really cheap packs of detail brushes at Walmart--you get like half a dozen for less than $5. Here's an example (get whatever is in your store): www.walmart.com/ip/Royal-Langnickel-Super-Value-Brush-Set-Golden-Taklon-10pc/23081415
next time, use some double sided tape and tape your minis to a paint stick, a broom handle, whatever, makes it a lot easier and gives you better control when spray prime.
@@gaminggeek241 In the original game you always use the chaos warlock as the stand in for the witch Lord (and Sir Ragnar for that matter). This time around they did a mini for both the Witch Lord and Sir Ragnar, so that was nice.
Whoa! I've never seen anyone paint like that before. Are you watering down paints and just using a "wash" or something? That looks so much faster and easier! I'm a die-hard HeroQuest fan so stumbled onto your content that way. After seeing how awesome the painted minis came out I'm gonna have to sub too!
Thanks for the sub! These are called Citadel Contrast Paints from GW. They are a mix between a wash and an ink. There are a bunch of RUclips vids that explain how to use them so do a search if you want to find out more. Totally sped up my painting!
Love your video but it appears your spray paint came out a bit gritty. There are several things that can cause this, Humidity, Cold, nozzle not depressed fully, not shaken well enough, partially clogged nozzle, etc. This seems to happen much more often with white than any other colors. Also a continuous spray moving across the figures rather than short bursts could be the problem. I thank you for your painting tips.
Have you tried to make you own DIY contrast colors or washes? Wonder how it would come out especially if you really want a certain color for like the barbarians blueish cloak. Either way great video, missed out on this but will definitely be happy to get the game from retailers!
I have made my own washes before, mostly for terrain when I need a lot of it. I would need to buy a set of inks to make my own so it's better for me to stick with GW. I use Goobertown Hobbies formula, if you haven't seen that video yet.
I still have most of my old original set - so I wonder how this new generation of owners will actually enjoy the gameplay as it is quite "old school" and lacks some mechanics expected in newer games. Hope it goes well - the figures are certainly a lot nicer!
I'm not familiar with these "Contrast colors" I've not painted minis in a long time. Is this essentially an ink? Seems to be just a watered-down paint.
Yes, it is similar to inks and washes but depending on the color, a little thicker. It basically shades in one coat because of varying opacity and the undercoat showing through. So instead of normal layering with successively lighter colors, you can do it in one coat.
Those are Citadel handles: here in the US, you can buy them here: tinyurl.com/43bjuazf Although shop around because I've seen them as cheap as $10 (or buy the 5-pack).
I am having a heck of a time base coating these models. No paint I have tried has stuck. Spray paint stays gummy and brush on primer seems to bead off like there was a water repellent on them. I've tried washing them with dish soap to no avail. Thankfully most of the spray paint came off my barbarian by soaking him in dawn for a couple days.
It might be you have a bad batch where they sprayed the release mold right before your minis were injection molded. Try using some Simple Green with a toothbrush and see if that helps at all. I've had issues with other minis (especially resin cast ones) and this has worked for me.
@@gaminggeek241 thanks, I was hoping the dawn would work but it might not be strong enough. A friend suggested goop, I'll see if we still have simply green around. How long would you suggest soaking them?
You have inspired so many to pick up a brush and just go for it. I really needed this and didn't realize it. THANK YOU!
Perfectionism is the enemy of just doing!
if i can get mine to look even HALF as good as these, ill consider it a success. this game will be my first attempt at painting game figures
You'll be fine! I'd recommend you start with painting the monsters first (probably start with the skeletons, or whatever you think would be the easiest) so you can build up your skill and work on your techniques.
I'd also recommend that you study up on some basic painting techniques if you haven't yet. There are a lot of good painting channels on RUclips, but the one I watch the most is Miniac. I believe he has some good videos on the basics of painting if you don't already know them.
Sorry if you know all of this already, and please disregard if that's the case! But if you don't want to look up videos, I can give you some fairly basic tips. I hope these help some:
- *Thin your paints properly.* It's often said that you want your paint to be a milk-like consistency. I typically do a 1/1 paint to water mix, but it depends on the paint. GW paints almost always need to be thinned, for example. But Reaper and Army Painter paints tend to be already properly thinned.
As for why you want to thin: Thinning helps your paints apply much more smoothly, it helps remove visible brush strokes, it makes your paints last longer (about twice as long), and finally, the paint will often run and flow into details, which a thicker paint would just gob up and ruin. It was legitimately like the dark ages before it became common knowledge to thin your paints!
- This one I'm struggling to explain, but you'll want to anchor your hands properly to give yourself all of the support / stability that you can. A model holder is really great for this too. Usually you'll want to have both elbows down on the table, effectively making a triangle with your hands meeting at the top of the triangle, both hands supporting the other.
- There's a lot more I could say, but this last one is just to enjoy yourself and don't expect perfection! If you aren't having fun or if you find yourself stressing about it, take a break and come back to it at another time. Oh, and finally, put on something fun to watch or listen to!
@@jeffjensen8 thanks for the tips :) yeah, ive watched tons of videos already. i even bought a reaper basic paint kit to help me get started. already painted the skeleton and orc that came with that, and getting ready to do the knight. skeleton was so-so, but the orc turned out nice
@@jasonw3414 That Reaper Core skills set is great if that's the one you're talking about! I actually bought one of those for myself quite a few years ago to refamiliarize myself with painting after a long hiatus. My one complaint with the kit is that the metal color mine had, (silver, I believe?) had pretty weak pigments, so I used a Citadel metallic color instead (I believe I used boltgun metal).
One pretty awesome thing about the kit is that you can (hopefully!) see your skills improve from model to model. I got a barbarian model instead of a knight, so I'm not sure how much they differ, but make sure you stick through and finish it!
@@jeffjensen8 yep. got the core skills set. not only did i get it to help me get going (and i seem to be going pretty well so far. orc looks good. skeleton is so-so), but specifically BECAUSE it had an orc and a skeleton in it. theres a lot of those in heroquest!
@@jasonw3414 You sound properly prepared! If you didn't know (I didn't, until recently), there is also a "Layer Up!" kit from Reaper that expands on the painting lessons from the Core Skills one. I'm thinking I might have to pick that up to re-reacquaint myself with painting!
This is my 1st miniature painting project and loved this video. After I unboxed it, I was intimidated by the detail of the figures compared to the game I had 30 years ago. My fear is gone after watching this. Can't wait to see how you tackled the furniture!
Glad this tutorial is helpful! I'll show furniture in another video--I'm working on painting up the rest of the minis now.
Thanks for the paint tutorial, I learned some stuff. I have been gaming for years but only recently started getting into painting my ancient minis. To encourage new painters I will share the most liberating thing I heard from another tutorial , "mediocre is good enough". It is not an excuse for poor work but freedom to get started and enjoy the process. It is surprising how quickly 'mediocre' becomes 'really good' through practice.
Absolutely! My motto is, "a poorly painted miniature is better than grey plastic."
@@gaminggeek241 yes ! Simple wash and shading is enough to start !!👍✌
Any suggestions on where to buy these paints in Canada? I can’t find citadel brand anywhere.
I have been organizing my supplies and materials to tackle this project. Going to also be using Contrast paints for the bulk of this, so thanks for the reference. In particular I love how the Abomination came out!
I do not paint or own anything like this (I used to play HeroQuest back in the 90's with family) but am addicted to your channel and watching this hobby. Watching the process from base plastic models outta the box, to the final product / final paint job, is oddly addicting. Your other video showing the 3D HeroQuest map is amazing as well.
Cheers!
Thanks! I appreciate it! Working on the gameplay video now so stay tuned.
For bases I sometimes put down a bit of adhesive putty and squidge it flat then use a toothpick to mark flagstones. It's a very quick way of adding detail and with a dark wash into the cracks looks very effective. Good for minis like these that are intended specifically for dungeon crawls.
This was my first time painting miniatures. I didn't use your same approach with contrast paint but I get alot of confidence watching your video and did use alot of your techniques. I just picked up a starter set of army painter with a wet pallet and love the outcome of the ones I've finished so far. Great video!
Good job being brave and diving in! I'm so glad you are happy with the outcome so I hope it encourages you to continue painting minis! You will just get better and better.
I love the painting tutorial. The spray can shading is something I will try with mine, it's an excellent idea.
The "liche" model is/isn't the Witch Lord. In the original HeroQuest, the liche was used for a variety of characters such as the Witch Lord, Sir Ragnar, and other special minions. This model would be used as the Witch Lord for the core set, but the Mythic Tier extras include a variant model that is supposed to be the actual Witch Lord as you see in the artwork.
Thanks for the clarification! I guess you can paint it whatever colors you want then. I found the actual Witch Lord in the expansions box like you said.
The vivid colours bring a new dimension.
The painting tutorial was very informative. Thank you. Please keep up the stellar work!
Great video, Bum! I never tire of watching your superlative work.
I plan on Cutting all my Minis off those Flat bases and put them on Clear bases like I did my Imperial Assault, Just so much Nicer seeing them stand directly on the Floor.
For those wanting to exactly replicate the paint job, here is a list of the paints used:
Games Workshop - Citadel:
-------------------------
Base Retributor Armour
Contrast Guilliman Flesh
Contrast Gore-Grunta Fur
Contrast Akhelian Green
Contrast Black Templar
Contrast Wyldwood
Contrast Snakebite Leather
Contrast Ultramarines Blue
Contrast Iyanden Yellow
Contrast Ork Flesh
Contrast Gryph Hound Orange
Contrast Militarum Green
Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh
Contrast Space Wolves Grey
Contrast Flesh Tearers Red
Contrast Talassar Blue
Contrast Magos Purple
Contrast Blood Angels Red
Techincal Contrast Medium
Shade Seraphim Sepia
Shade Agrax Earthshade
Shade Nuln Oil
Reaper:
-------
Crimson Red
The Army Painter - Warpaints:
-----------------------------
Metallic Plate Mail Metal
Metallic Bright Gold
Ink Purple Tone
Ink Flesh Wash
Greenskin
Pure Red
Alien Purple
DecoArt - Americana:
--------------------
Cool White
Slate Grey
Lamp (Ebony) Black
Zink
Rust-oleum - 2X Ultra Cover:
----------
Flat Black
Flat White
Unknown:
--------
Metalic Silver Primer
Medium Grey Primer
Yes! Thank you! Should have been in the video notes IMO.
Abd this is why I just stick to the primaries.
The grey and silver primers could be Army painter sprays. Uniform Grey, and Plate Mail Metal.
where can i find convertion to all these colour to vallejo cause i have all vallejo codes
And approx how much would it cost if you were just getting into painting minis to get all the colours used in the video?
Awesome job here! You motivate me to paint more of the models I have. Also, don’t be afraid to mix contrast paints up. That Akeliean Green with space wolves grey mixed would’ve been a close color choice for that blue grey on the barbarian 🤓
Been watching your videos for a while following your 3d printed Heroquest board builds. As far as I was concerned you were the go to guy on youtube for table and board building. Subbed for sure, keep up the awesome videos!
Thanks so much for the sub, Kalon!
Love the BLUE on the Abomination, totally stealing that, but im going to do Dread warriors in Gloss Black armor. Also the 2nd Gargoyle is the Warlocks shapeshift form (Going to paint it to have her color accents), but they didnt give the Druids Bear form ?
Ugh seeing all these unboxing videos is making so anxious for mine to show up
Ive Heard the Mice and Sculls are used in some of the NEW missions, dont glue them to Furnature.
Just read through the new missions, and the mice and skulls are not mentioned. Closest thing is a tavern called the Rat and Stone.
@@jesternario was relaying what I was told, you did check all the Quest books, it was to be in one of the new 3, I shipped my Mythic to Battlefoam, they are making templates for foam inserts to fit in the Boxes, IF you plan on painting yours Keep an eye out, can't wait for it to get back so I can start painting it up.
Wow! Never even considered myself to ever paint. But this is so much inspiration. Thank you for this video!
You're welcome! Hope you take the plunge and try painting!
Over, NICE video, and I especially thought the black/ white contrast spray painting was clever. However, what would be REALLY helpful here is if you explained where you got the PAINTS you used in your demonstration. Did these come in a set of some type or are you expecting theses to be purchased individually????
I used Citadel Contrast Colors which I did buy individually. If I were to do it all over again, I would go the cheaper route and get Army Painter Speed Paints which you can buy in various packs. There are resources online about which Speed Paints correlate with the Citadel ones.
Thank you for posting this! I just got the base set and the first thing I thought of was how I wanted to paint them and found this video.
This is awesome - saving this video for later. I just picked up HeroQuest to play with the family but now I need to save up some cash for all this paint!
Excellent video! From the unboxing to the speed painting tutorial, very informative. Greatly appreciated.
Glad it is helpful!
Know this content was posted a while ago but wanted to say thanks.
I recently purchased the same Boxset (looking to re-live childhood glory days) and I was looking for content on painting the contents (there isn't much out there).
A lot of great ideas which has given me lots of ideas. I'm definitely taking the speedpaint/ slap chop approach for the furniture. Cheers.
Go for it! I'd recommend Army Painter Speedpaint over Citadel Contrast Colors to save money. Good luck!
This is amazing I love the contrast paints I’m gonna buy me some now!! Thank you!!
I bought the base game today but only have craft paint for terrain. I really love how these turned out so need to invest in some of these paints. Between that and the PLA I need for the printed board, quite the project and expense! Thanks for the tutorials!
If you can wait, you might want to pick up Army Painter Speed paints when they release in Q1 of 2022. They are half the price.
I just primmered my 1989 pieces today to paint tomorrow. Funny how I decided after all these years today to paint my old game and first video in my feed was this one. I love this new box set would love to have this version plus the expansions which I do not have anymore. I've had a lot of fun over the years with this board game.
I think adding the red paint on the orc, maybe also a bit of gold on the sword and chest plate armor makes it much better, as having a 3 color scheme just looks to simple and doesn't draw enough attention. The abominations are fantastic though and the overall method is very time saving
For me your painting is just enough for table top standard or even more when i comapre it to the 90's standard :)
I didn't even know this was a thing!!! Hero Quest is my all-time favorite game. It's what got me into RPGs and mini games. I still have the original game and the two main expansions. I had pretty much every expansion minus some stuff only released in the UK. But a house fire destroyed most of my games ages ago. I still have the original game though. I don't do Kickstarters but for this, I would have. I really hope this comes out for retail. I would buy it in a heartbeat. Nice updated sculpts. The old sculpts have what I like to call the "1980s GW squat" pose.
Oh, I feel so bad that a house fire destroyed your games! I'm glad you are safe though.
Mine should be here tomorrow! Can’t wait!
great video. super keen for mine to arrive in AUS. i have also followed your advice and went a backed The Dragon's Rest so i can make a 3D board.
Oh man... I got my HeroQuest and all the add-on stretch goals i invested in, Nov '21 as well!
It's on my list to paint.. along with my zombicide BP, massive darkness, and other kickstarter minis. :D Lots of painting to do.. airbrush bought... workshop being built... cant wait. :)
This is a great method. Another speed method is to prime in the dominant color (green, grey, etc). Spot color any other colors. Dip in army painter strong tone enamel, wick off excess. Spray matte sealer. It's super fast, and the models are tough as nails.
Nice review and cool paint jobs. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for posting this. I backed the same set as you did & I’ve been wondering what to paint the minis from the big box.
Can you list those Contrast/craft paints again? I want to try to find them at my local gaming & crafting stores.
Good video, thank for the tips for the painting, will be a proyect of mine for the rest of the year and will inspire me in your figures, quite well done!!.
Hey man just want to thankyou for your content. Cuz of this channel I dropped $150 on paints and am painting my first project which is 2021 hero quest. Also seriously considering 3d printing board you recommend. Great tutorials
Glad this inspired you to paint up your minis!
Hi, thanks for the video. What is "baking soda", the white powder at the beginning when preparing the heroes?
Also make sure to wash the miniatures with dish soapy water to get rid of the mold releasing agents from the plastic before painting.
Are you going to make a tutorial in painting the new expansion Frozen Horror figures and the new Rogue hero? I just got them both but Im a little afriad to paint them.
I based my figures with your tutorials coz I loved how they came out and I would love to see how you paint the new figures, so if you can please make it would be really appreciated, thanks
Sorry but I did not purchase the Frozen Horror expansion. I'm positive that there are going to be other painters who will create painting tutorials. Good luck!
Your figures look great!
Great video! Do you think using Grey Seer over Chaos Black would work well for the zenithal effect? I'm thinking of using those to avoid specking.
It would work but the Grey Seer doesn't provide enough brightness for the contrast colors to really come through. I would drybrush white on top for a final coat if you don't want to spray it on.
I just got my retail edition order in from Entertainment Earth yesterday! I also pre-ordered Keller's Keep and Witch Lord, but I am sweating bullets worrying if they will sell the Mythic Edition figures. It would really suck to lock those new classes, monsters and quests behind a limited-time campaign! I didn't know about it a year ago!
I didnt even know about the Knight hero expansion, which somehow sold out around the time I placed my EE order. It never popped up when I searched for everything Heroquest at the time.
Appreciate this professional unboxing mate!
Great content. You're the first one I've seen record any sort of painting with the new miniatures. Do you think there will be any new 3d print designs available for the expansion board overlays? Would look a bit out of place covering a wonderful board like yours with a 2d overlay. Any ideas for 3d trap tiles as well?
Do you mean from Dragon's Rest? He has scaled furniture included in the dungeon files, although I grabbed the torture rack and sarcophagus from Kraken Studios.
@@gaminggeek241 Yeah, from Dragon's Rest. I'm not referencing the furniture but the replaced sections of the board to go with the Kellars Keep and Witch King expansions. The Witch King one is a floor with a skull for example. And the trap tiles I was referring to were the trap doors and pits. I have found some that might work on Thingverse.
@@fuzz7981 Dragon's Rest doesn't have the skull floor but they do have the rotating room, which is super cool.
I can't believe you are putting those Hero Quest Cards near the paint! And painting above them...my heart stop it!!!
While it may not be in stores (retail), Hasbro Pulse did release pre-orders for the base game yesterday. So I'm hopeful that the expansions follow in time. I'd love for them to produce the impossibly difficult to obtain expansions (Barbarian Quest, Elf Quest, Wizards of Morcar, & Against the Ogre Horde.)
The expansions are up on BBTS
amazing video - i referenced at least 100 times and i cannot thank you enough!
Glad it helped!
Nice tutorial.
Btw your elf looks like it has some serious stubble going one.
Did you ever repaint her face?
Nice man! Solid work.
Great tutorial very helpful thank you for taking the time to create such an informative and helpful video I like how you offer great tips and options! beautiful paint jobs btw
Many thanks for this. Just got the game again after 20 years. What clamp do you use to hold the figures in when painting?
That's a mini holder from Games Workshop. There are a lot of options out there--honestly, you can just use some sticky tack and some corks or pill bottles.
The flexibility of the plastic bothers me a lot, actually. I'm afraid the paint will crack and peel off too easily. Is it really worth to paint them?
Because most miniature paints are acrylic, they won't crack but will flex. I've never had issues with paint coming off from flexing. In fact, with plastic miniatures and a good coat of clear varnish, I've never had paint come off a mini--with metal ones I have from a lot of handling but not plastic.
The army painter flesh wash is designed to go over a flat basecoat of caucasian skin color, and I think it would be worth the effort to have basecoat in this instance. Otherwise the minis look pretty good.
Been waiting for this video. Thank you!
they look great, nice work.
I don't know if you noticed that you used paint/primer. Did that effect the paint when you painted them? Reason I ask is because that's the same can of primer I bought, and I thought I messed up.
No, I've never had issues with using spray paint or primer--they both act as a bonding agent for my mini paints to adhere to.
@@gaminggeek241 Oh ok cool.
@gaminggeek What would you think of priming with a gray, or possibly just white. When I see the minis up close with the contrast the black and white give a sandpaper like effect where I can see splotches of the black underneath. I haven't started painting my set yet and was curious if I should skip the black primer undercoat.
Yes, absolutely, you can do just all white. I do that in this video: ruclips.net/video/e5uuJ7B-zhM/видео.html
Great speed tutorials, thank you.
I use this primer you used all the time on 3d prints and such, but on these mini's they left them sticky and uncured in places. Did you see any of that?
Thank you for the video. It really did kickstart me painting my heroquest box. I got the same spraypaints as you but my under coat comes off so easily and is still tacky after a week. Did nice thin coats.
While I'm nearly done with the player team i'm worried all my work is going to come off easily even after I do the varnish. Just curious you have no issues after all finished.
I'm used to gundam models and clearcoat. So this is a different world to me. And I'm loving it.
I have had no issues with the paint remaining on. Did you try washing the miniatures with warm water, toothbrush, and a little bit of dish soap? Sometimes there is release mold remaining on the mini. Also, I use Rustoleum 2X Ultracover as my undercoating (Walmart).
@@gaminggeek241 That's most likely the issue. I sadly didn't even think about washing them. Here's to testing a varnish and hoping for the best!
Just a tip, paint a black paint where you are going to put the metallics and just dry brush them on. That just my opinion cause I hate metallics.
At the back of the main box says " "70+ detailed miniatures" but I counted 35...
I guess they count furnitures and doors as miniatures?
I just bought the core game and I'm excited to paint everything. Since this will be my FIRST time painting miniatures and it feels like a bit of an investment, I'm a little nervous and have done my research. Some folks have said the Rustoleum primers can cause the softer plastic these minis are made of to become sticky. Have you noticed this at all? Any help is appreciated!
I can't entirely remember but if you are worried about it, you can spend a bit more money and use acrylic spray paint instead such as Pintyplus (Walmart) or Ironlak (Hobby Lobby). Even when the Rustoleum makes the minis a little tacky after I spray it, once I paint them, the tackiness goes away. Also, buy Army Painter Speed Paints as they are a cheaper alternative to GW Contrast Colors. Hope that helps!
@@gaminggeek241 Thank you for your speedy reply! I will look into those paints as well as experiment with at least one mini using the Rustoleum to see if that issue arises. Thanks for your help, and thank you for the great content!
OK so I have a question.
I used your method and I've noticed even after a good few weeks of drying time my miniatures have dried very sticky after base coating with the spray paints. What have I done wrong and how do I rectify this.
To rectify this, go ahead and paint over it and then apply a matte varnish (I use Dead Flat from Rustoleum). That should fix it.
@@gaminggeek241 thank you for replying. Does this happen sometimes? I've noticed others I've painted even with same based spray are not sticky at all. Very odd
@@justinstuart8382 It usually happens with softer plastics. I've had it happen every once in a while and I've found that painting over it and varnishing gets rid of the stickiness. I know some people will use brush on primer instead to avoid the issue but I'm too lazy for that!
@@gaminggeek241 oh that actually makes sense. I purchased some Hero's from a guy on Ebay he 3D printed them. They sprayed up really well and didn't finish up sticky. However unfortunately The Frozen Horror and female Barbarian did end up really sticky so I'm thinking they must be the softer plastic. They are the only miniatures from the core game and expansions I've tried to paint so far.
I was asking. Did you use the hot water and cold water technique on bent miniatures. How did it go and do you recommend it? If yes how hot should the water be to use it. I have a mythic tier heroquest set and I want to fix the dread warriors.
Yes it worked. I basically use a small bowl of water and microwave it until it is boiling a little (be careful taking it out of the microwave). It doesn't have to be that hot but since the bowl will cool down, I don't care too much. I dip the bent part for about ten seconds and then lift it out and reshape to where I want it and then run it under the cold tap water (alternative could be to have a second bowl with ice water).
Yeah, the dread warriors required work at the mace head and the ankles as they were all leaning backwards!
I have no plans to place the minis back into the plastic trays as that seems to have warped them in the first place.
How do you feel about the quality of the models? I haven't recieved my copy yet but Im undecided whether I like them. Detail wise, it's not GW quality but most seem okay/good (Love the new Evil Sorcerer) but the Orcs look really rough from what I've seen. The mold lines look particularly egregious as well.
Yeah, they aren't the best quality--I would say one step down from CMON miniatures but a step above Blacklist Games. They are passable.
this video inspires me to start painting my minis now. Got HQ mythic, nemesis and some misc minis for other games i want to do now. is there a list of brushes you recommend to start with?
Honestly, I buy the really cheap packs of detail brushes at Walmart--you get like half a dozen for less than $5. Here's an example (get whatever is in your store): www.walmart.com/ip/Royal-Langnickel-Super-Value-Brush-Set-Golden-Taklon-10pc/23081415
Mines still sitting in box, don’t have enough time in my adult life to pull it out :(
next time, use some double sided tape and tape your minis to a paint stick, a broom handle, whatever, makes it a lot easier and gives you better control when spray prime.
That's the Chaos Warlock (or whatever his new name is) The Witch Lord came with the Mystic Tier set.
Thanks for the clarification! I wish there was a picture for reference in the set.
@@gaminggeek241 In the original game you always use the chaos warlock as the stand in for the witch Lord (and Sir Ragnar for that matter). This time around they did a mini for both the Witch Lord and Sir Ragnar, so that was nice.
Whoa! I've never seen anyone paint like that before. Are you watering down paints and just using a "wash" or something? That looks so much faster and easier! I'm a die-hard HeroQuest fan so stumbled onto your content that way. After seeing how awesome the painted minis came out I'm gonna have to sub too!
Thanks for the sub! These are called Citadel Contrast Paints from GW. They are a mix between a wash and an ink. There are a bunch of RUclips vids that explain how to use them so do a search if you want to find out more. Totally sped up my painting!
where did you get the sign, sooo much want there for my display :) nice video
Made a tutorial video here: ruclips.net/video/jIXfe6Vc6-U/видео.html
Love your video but it appears your spray paint came out a bit gritty. There are several things that can cause this, Humidity, Cold, nozzle not depressed fully, not shaken well enough, partially clogged nozzle, etc. This seems to happen much more often with white than any other colors. Also a continuous spray moving across the figures rather than short bursts could be the problem. I thank you for your painting tips.
Have you tried to make you own DIY contrast colors or washes? Wonder how it would come out especially if you really want a certain color for like the barbarians blueish cloak. Either way great video, missed out on this but will definitely be happy to get the game from retailers!
I have made my own washes before, mostly for terrain when I need a lot of it. I would need to buy a set of inks to make my own so it's better for me to stick with GW. I use Goobertown Hobbies formula, if you haven't seen that video yet.
@@gaminggeek241 found it, will definitely check that one out now, thanks!
I still have most of my old original set - so I wonder how this new generation of owners will actually enjoy the gameplay as it is quite "old school" and lacks some mechanics expected in newer games. Hope it goes well - the figures are certainly a lot nicer!
Sorry if asked before but is there a list of the paints used in the tutorial??
Yup, take a look in the description of the video and the whole list is there.
It hurts me that i didn't pledge in time for that new heroquest. Then again. I have limited time and already too much to do! A blessing in disguise?
wow they look amazing, great work!
I'm not familiar with these "Contrast colors" I've not painted minis in a long time. Is this essentially an ink? Seems to be just a watered-down paint.
Yes, it is similar to inks and washes but depending on the color, a little thicker. It basically shades in one coat because of varying opacity and the undercoat showing through. So instead of normal layering with successively lighter colors, you can do it in one coat.
Awesome video; inspiring me to paint my HeroQuest set too! Quick question: where did you get the painting handle?
Those are Citadel handles: here in the US, you can buy them here: tinyurl.com/43bjuazf Although shop around because I've seen them as cheap as $10 (or buy the 5-pack).
I am having a heck of a time base coating these models. No paint I have tried has stuck. Spray paint stays gummy and brush on primer seems to bead off like there was a water repellent on them.
I've tried washing them with dish soap to no avail. Thankfully most of the spray paint came off my barbarian by soaking him in dawn for a couple days.
It might be you have a bad batch where they sprayed the release mold right before your minis were injection molded. Try using some Simple Green with a toothbrush and see if that helps at all. I've had issues with other minis (especially resin cast ones) and this has worked for me.
@@gaminggeek241 thanks, I was hoping the dawn would work but it might not be strong enough. A friend suggested goop, I'll see if we still have simply green around.
How long would you suggest soaking them?
So would flesh wash from army painter be a good substitute for Guilliman flesh contrast?
Yes, that is correct. It is not as dark but it works.
Did the models get tacky from the spray primer? Always my fear with PVC minis and spray paint.
No, not really. The 2X Ultracover is acrylic so it doesn't react with the pvc.
Are the contrast paint used right out of the bottle or do they need thinning?
Right out of the bottle. No thinning.
Well the Dread Sorcerer can be used as the Witch Lord but the added campaign pieces they actually made an official Witch Lord playing piece
Where can i get that HeroQuest Lamp on the tablet seen at 3:03 ?
That is 3D printed: ruclips.net/video/jIXfe6Vc6-U/видео.html
I am so upset I missed this campaign. Loved the old game and this looks very cool. Great video as always.
You can buy the base box from Hasbro and it will deliver December 15!
Thanks! Will do just that.
Saw it today at Gamestop.
I missed the pledge , because i didn't know there was one 😅
I want to buy that game but idk where to get it. 🤔
If you are in the United States, you can order the game from Hasbro: hasbropulse.com/products/heroquest-game-system-1
@@gaminggeek241 But that's not the Mythic Version 🤔
I’m using Astrogranite to paint all of my bases, other than that, I’m probably using your methods to paint them.
I'm learning a lot here.
Now is this straight out of the pot? Did you use medium on the contrasts?
95% was straight out of the pot. I may have thinned some with medium when I needed a lighter shade but most was full strength.
@@gaminggeek241 also is Rustoleum satin brown good primer for the furniture?
Haha Abomination looks like Mer-Man 😅😂😂
OMG THIS IS PERFECT!! CAN YOU DO ONE FOR THE NEW CHARAACTERS AND DRAGON?
Awesome job!
Looks awsome (still prefer the og minis) but the $125 for the base box is a big turn off