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DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS VIDEO. The power wire from a trailer light converter should never be connected to a fused vehicle accessory circuit for multiple reasons. 1) You don't want your trailer lights "competing" for power with other accessories you have plugged in, e.g. phones, tablets, game consoles. If your vehicle accessory circuit fuse blows from overload, you are left with no trailer lights. 2) Trailer lights must be operable when the ignition switch is OFF. For example, if you have to leave your vehicle and trailer in an emergency on the shoulder of a road at night, you will not want to leave your engine running or the ignition in accessory mode in order to operate the trailer's emergency flashers. Follow the installation instructions that came with your trailer light harness.
So wire it to the battery... I can understand why these guys didn’t... if you don’t have the stuff it’s hard to get under your van to work the wire all the way underneath to your battery. I plan on doing it the right way but I’m not looking forward to it...
@@wakawaka1976 There is no excuse for supposedly professional "Auto Repair Guys" - who even make money by selling merchandise - to tell people to use a wiring method that is not safe. It's quite easy to do it correctly per the trailer light harness manufacturer's instructions and run the trailer light power wire underneath a Sienna and attach it to the existing accessory terminal bolt on the battery positive cable clamp using a dedicated in-line fuse. I already had the rear of my 2014 Sienna modestly elevated on jack stands to install the trailer hitch and it took only a few minutes more to run the power wire under the van to the engine compartment. There were plenty of places to zip tie the power wire under the Sienna to and it's up and out of the way. A set of high quality 3-ton jack stands - you need only a set of two to install a hitch and trailer light harness - currently runs about $30 and a good set of safety wheel chocks (2 per set) is around $10.
The accessory jack has a fuse, and has plenty of power available for this purpose. Unless you're running a cigar-lighter nonstop. Jesus H Christ, DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS IDIOT. See, I can shout too...............
@@cliffbadger1 Whether the accessory circuit can become overloaded by trailer lights can depend on the trailer and the type of lights it has. A small utility trailer with only two combo taillights would not draw much current but a travel trailer with incandescent tail, marker and clearance lights can draw far more current. The problem remains, however, that connecting a trailer light harness to a vehicle accessory circuit does not allow the trailer lights to always function in concert with the vehicle lights. Trailer taillights and emergency flashers must be operable with the vehicle ignition circuit is off - same as the DOT/NHTSA requirement for vehicles.
@@H2SO4H20 I thank you for your addendum to this video. I was going to go all the way to the battery via the instructions, but your caution was helpful. I kind of wonder, though: if you already know how to do this (and what NOT to do) why are you watching and commenting on an instructional video? Could it be these guys HELPED you but then you nit picked without giving them credit for helping you out in other ways? Karma's a bitch: do not F with her.
Great video, great job with instructions. Reading the comments, I see why you always tell people to follow the OEM instructions. I see this video as you just showing me how you do it and not how the manufacturer would do it. I dont know why people love to critics so much. I wish the critics would make their own videos that other critics can tear apart. I really appreciate your time putting this video together. Thank you. I probably wont do it exactly how you did it but you gave me the confidence to tear it apart and do it myself.
I love your accent, if I need something and you have made a video for it, I always choose you first so I can listen to you talk. Thanks for the 12volt wire option I was contemplating doing that myself. There is always Negative Nancy's, but you do a great job despite them. I just subscribed so thanks for taking the time to make all of the videos that you do!!!
@@sidthetoykid9615 should be left side of rear interior, behind the lower left panel at the very back. You will have to remove some interior pieces for it.
Did you ever find the answer to where the other side of the cord by the outlet goes? I was planning on installing this tonight but couldn't figure that part out?
They left the most important part out...connecting the "hot" wire to somewhere that gets 12 volts. I suspect they cut the power to the 12 volt socket and used a butt connector with two wires in one side, and one wire in the other, making a "tee" connection.
⛐ Check out our Garage to see what tools we use and recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
⛐ Subscribe and hit the notification bell by the subscribe button for new videos: ruclips.net/user/AutoRepairGuys
⛐ Our GoFundme Page: www.gofundme.com/auto-repair-guys
Why didn’t you show you to hook up to the accessory power on the side? It’s the main point of your video.
DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS VIDEO. The power wire from a trailer light converter should never be connected to a fused vehicle accessory circuit for multiple reasons. 1) You don't want your trailer lights "competing" for power with other accessories you have plugged in, e.g. phones, tablets, game consoles. If your vehicle accessory circuit fuse blows from overload, you are left with no trailer lights. 2) Trailer lights must be operable when the ignition switch is OFF. For example, if you have to leave your vehicle and trailer in an emergency on the shoulder of a road at night, you will not want to leave your engine running or the ignition in accessory mode in order to operate the trailer's emergency flashers. Follow the installation instructions that came with your trailer light harness.
So wire it to the battery... I can understand why these guys didn’t... if you don’t have the stuff it’s hard to get under your van to work the wire all the way underneath to your battery. I plan on doing it the right way but I’m not looking forward to it...
@@wakawaka1976 There is no excuse for supposedly professional "Auto Repair Guys" - who even make money by selling merchandise - to tell people to use a wiring method that is not safe. It's quite easy to do it correctly per the trailer light harness manufacturer's instructions and run the trailer light power wire underneath a Sienna and attach it to the existing accessory terminal bolt on the battery positive cable clamp using a dedicated in-line fuse. I already had the rear of my 2014 Sienna modestly elevated on jack stands to install the trailer hitch and it took only a few minutes more to run the power wire under the van to the engine compartment. There were plenty of places to zip tie the power wire under the Sienna to and it's up and out of the way. A set of high quality 3-ton jack stands - you need only a set of two to install a hitch and trailer light harness - currently runs about $30 and a good set of safety wheel chocks (2 per set) is around $10.
The accessory jack has a fuse, and has plenty of power available for this purpose. Unless you're running a cigar-lighter nonstop. Jesus H Christ, DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS IDIOT. See, I can shout too...............
@@cliffbadger1 Whether the accessory circuit can become overloaded by trailer lights can depend on the trailer and the type of lights it has. A small utility trailer with only two combo taillights would not draw much current but a travel trailer with incandescent tail, marker and clearance lights can draw far more current. The problem remains, however, that connecting a trailer light harness to a vehicle accessory circuit does not allow the trailer lights to always function in concert with the vehicle lights. Trailer taillights and emergency flashers must be operable with the vehicle ignition circuit is off - same as the DOT/NHTSA requirement for vehicles.
@@H2SO4H20 I thank you for your addendum to this video. I was going to go all the way to the battery via the instructions, but your caution was helpful. I kind of wonder, though: if you already know how to do this (and what NOT to do) why are you watching and commenting on an instructional video? Could it be these guys HELPED you but then you nit picked without giving them credit for helping you out in other ways? Karma's a bitch: do not F with her.
Great video, great job with instructions. Reading the comments, I see why you always tell people to follow the OEM instructions. I see this video as you just showing me how you do it and not how the manufacturer would do it. I dont know why people love to critics so much. I wish the critics would make their own videos that other critics can tear apart. I really appreciate your time putting this video together. Thank you. I probably wont do it exactly how you did it but you gave me the confidence to tear it apart and do it myself.
Thanks, always nice watching video of somebody doing what I'm about to do to make sure I don't mess things up
Heatshrink is a good alternative to electrical tape in some cases.
I love your accent, if I need something and you have made a video for it, I always choose you first so I can listen to you talk. Thanks for the 12volt wire option I was contemplating doing that myself. There is always Negative Nancy's, but you do a great job despite them. I just subscribed so thanks for taking the time to make all of the videos that you do!!!
Hey bro, thank you for the video I learned a lot.
Very helpful on the rear install, but as others have said, run power wire directly to the BATTERY so it is independent of the key accessory power.
Thanks for the video! Just what we needed.
You could just by the factory tow harness, which is a single plug and already has a dedicated circuit for it...
@You Tube dealer? Im sure they still make them. Or find one in a junkyard with a oem hitch installed.
****Where is this factory plug located*** urgent haha
@@sidthetoykid9615 should be left side of rear interior, behind the lower left panel at the very back. You will have to remove some interior pieces for it.
Great video and very helpful! nice work and nice guys! Thanks!
Where do you connect the other side of the yellow cord by the outlet? I see one to connect to red cord; but the other end?
Did you ever find the answer to where the other side of the cord by the outlet goes? I was planning on installing this tonight but couldn't figure that part out?
They left the most important part out...connecting the "hot" wire to somewhere that gets 12 volts. I suspect they cut the power to the 12 volt socket and used a butt connector with two wires in one side, and one wire in the other, making a "tee" connection.
Exactly, where was connected the second side of yellow cable?!!!!😢
Do you have a Mazda CX-7 check engine light reset
Cherish0887 only a scanner can erases the check Engine light, but unfortunately if you don't fix the problem it will come back again .
And tail light replacement for a cx7
Great vid. Your English is great...if you can stop rolling your R it would be easier to understand.