I asked for a Weller 8200 for my birthday present around 1964 . In anticipation in receiving it, I had a bunch of speaker wires twisted before my birthday. Yes, I received it for my birthday. I soldered those speaker wires with the 8200. Later that year, I took a summer school "radio shop" class in between 7th and 8th grade where we built a Packard Bell 5R1 superheterodyne A.M. radio kit and I hand wired the radio and soldered it with the Weller soldering gun. It's what the instructor expected us to use to build the radio. I still have that radio. Fast forward to 2023. I still have the same soldering gun and like you, I use it frequently. This soldering gun will outlive me and may outlive my young son. It could last a couple of centuries. They're great tools. By the way, it all led to "harder stuff" and I kept up with electronics, got a ham license and in the end earned an Electronics Engineering degree. I had a 35 year career with one of the largest computer companies. That soldering gun had a lot to do with it.
I brought Weller older version that manufactured in Lancaster, PA and it still doing a good job of electric train and old TV repaire with Simpson 260 and Simpson Watt meter. I have a large Hi Wattage one that all shell are broken off and still working. I used to collect these soldering when I was a small child back in 1960 . Sill love them!
I got mine back in 1967, I was at school learning electronics building my first AAFR in a board, never made any whisper but it was so nice with all parts and tubes lighted up I was 17 years old, 😢😊
I bought a Weller iron from a local flea market in 1987. It was new in its box. I still have it. It is 140/100 watts. The label has that order and the higher wattage is the first position.
My Dad made one in his Industrial Arts class in college in the 50s. That included winding the transformer and vacuum forming the plastic case/handle after making the forms and mold heater. Still have it. 😊
I have a Weller Junior from 1957. It was gifted to me in 1961 by a dear friend. It is one heat only, but it has TWO headlights! I've picked up two more big, two heat Weller guns at yard sales with almost giveaway prices. You can never have too many guns, soldering guns that is!
I still have the Weller I bought from Lafayette radio in the late 50"s and it still works fine. I always started out with the trigger at high heat to get the tip hotter faster. If I needed a tip fast I'd just use a piece of 12 or 14 bare Romex - not as good as the iron plated tips but it worked in a pinch. I also have the Simpson 260 from the same era. Good tools last a long time.
I bought mine in 1974 and never burnt out a bulb.and used it everyday to install remote starts and car stereos.and I use 12 gauge electrical wire for the tips.
I have one of the old 100/140 watt units and have replaced the normal tip with a relatively short piece of 14 ga. copper wire. It gets a fair bit hotter and is handy for soldering things to a metal chassis in a guitar amp. Mr. Carlson's Lab inspired that.
I was checking out videos to buy a new soldering gun as mine was slower than I remembered, until I saw this video and discovered I was trying to solder on the low voltage setting when I pulled the trigger all the way back. I have now put a stop in the trigger so it does not go to the low setting any more. Thank you as I did not know the settings were reversed compared to the soldering guns I used in the past.
This one really brought back memories. I had one, a very old model handed down from my late father. I think it never had an original tip after the factory one worn away, and my genius father bent a thick copper wire to shape and used it like that for years. Me, being the "new" generation, got an original tip for it but soon after, I managed to drop it while working on top of a ladder. It shattered to pieces. I tried to put its pieces together with a 2-part epoxy glue, but unfortunately, it didn't hold. Now, I have a cheap knock-off because I very rarely have the need for a high temp soldering gun. It works, but it really still hurt me inside when I remember that I destroyed my father's Weller.
I have an 8200, which I bought decades ago, to start building hifi kits...Dynaco, Hafler, Eico, etc. Still works like new. My 1964 Lafayette Radio catalog, prices it at $4.56, $4.07 in quantity.
I bought my first solder weller when i was 14years, about 40 years ago , i had different solder brand , German weller to Japanese hako, and pace US made . Now my best ever solder is JBC solder. Quality of tip is top notch . Temperature sensor is inbuilt in tip , it has power controlled vs temperature, it never drope the temperature with big component, highly recommended.
Nice collection of Weller guns! :) I bought an 8200 new back in the mid '80's. Still working fine. It also has the high setting on the first click. Always thought that was weird. Paul Carlson has an old video where he described how he reversed that condition on his own 8200's. I might just do that come to think of it.... Great content as usual! Thanks!
The earliest Weller guns were 100-watt only. The trigger was just an on-off switch. These are slightly more rounded in styling than the later two heat models. The bigger high-power gun was also just a single heat unit of 250 watts as I recall. Both of these had two of the #222 flashlight bulbs, on on either side of the gun. The #222 bulb was very commonly available and was intended for use in pencil flashlights. It has the advantage of the lens in the end which concentrates the light into a smaller spot. Weller later used a different single bulb, also with an internal lens. When the two heat irons came out, they all had the lower heat on the first position and the higher heat with full depression of the trigger. Several guys with whom I worked, swapped the wires on the switch so that with the trigger fully depressed, you had the lower heat. The argument was (as solid-state was looming on the horizon about this time) that you more commonly used the lower heat, and besides that was what you were used to, and it was more comfortable to work with the trigger fully depressed, rather than attempt to hold it in-between positions. Good operating practice, called out in the leaflet included with the irons, was to periodically slightly loosen the nuts on the bit and re-tighten them to clear out oxide which would form in the joint and prevent the iron from heating all the way. Weller developed a coated bit for use in the irons, which had a blunt end on it. The style bit on the irons shown in this video is the older configuration. The older style has a bit more tip mass which makes them a bit more efficient heating a joint, but they have an annoying habit of burning out right behind the tip. That led to the practice of using 14 gauge wire or else coat hanger wire in place of official tips as it was a lot cheaper to replace. A common trick soldering a very heavy piece of work, such as the sleeve of a PL-259 UHF connector, was to take the bit out of the unit altogether and press the ends directly against the work so that the current passed through the work and heated it directly. It was worth doing if you had several connectors to solder and works well once you get the hang of it.
Thanks! I just bought a D550 - and as you said - the heat was hotter using the switch in the first position, rather than the second which I thought was obvious but it wasn't!
I still have my 1st Weller soldering gun I bought in 1963, broke the case a couple times and had to buy new cases two times. I bought a 2nd Weller clone from Radio Shack that was relabeled Archer, it had a different light bulb, this one I did not break its case. Both are 100 / 140 watters, second click of the switch is the higher wattage on both. With 12 or 14 gauge wire in place of the normal tip, it makes a great soldering tool for soldering to a steel chassis. My guess why they made changes to the switch action is, like why a multi speed fan, 1st click on is high, to get it going faster.
i guessed what the video is about right from the beginning :) i found one of the orange ones at a garage sale and got it for my friend and i used a marker to indicate the wattage positions... that being said, at some point i had to open it as the switch was acting up and the trigger does have two clicks. but things can move around if dropped and the mechanism stops working as intended. the clicks are not as well defined as in the older models. the backwards switch makes sense to me as it's easier to hold it all the way in when soldering and in most situations the low temp is hot enough to perform well. the new ones are also considerably lighter.
I was fighting with soldering a plug for a half hour before using a benzomatic butane iron burning my fingers and got nowhere. I went and got the red gun and within a minute the plug was soldered. I also used leaded solder which stunk out my whole house. I’m getting yelled at right now. That gun is crazy powerful. Thanks for the info.
WELL! That explains why the one I had from the 90's never heated up as fast as the one my dad has from the late 50's. I actually got fed up with it, and bought a Wall Lenk. Interesting info about the bulbs burning out. Could never keep a bulb working for long in any of the Wellers.
Excellent find I would never knowing that it would be backwards I wonder if the wire can be change around on the switch easily so you can get full temperature when pressed all the way in.
Interesting. Now you have me curious about the Australian spec. models. I have an older lower wattage model found at a garage sale many years ago. My first iron was an Australian made IC202D that I still use in the garage. My current iron is a Hakko. I've given up on Weller as the quality has dropped so much. I also have a monster Birko iron made here in Victoria (Aust.) that is over 60cm (2 foot) long with a 3/4 inch tip. It's great for chassis on valve radios.
Tony forgot to mention the paddle shaped tips that you can buy for these guns, or at least you used to be able to buy them....they were for "welding" broken plastic back together and can be quite useful.
Found this out a few years back when I finally bought my own Weller soldering gun kit. Hadn’t used one in a long time, but they were all the low first click, high second click. Could not figure out why when mashing the trigger to the second click, it seemed to not work as well. What was wrong? Then I read the wattage on the side and saw the reversed wattages… I’m sure there was a reason for the switch, but what? I am, though thankful I got one with two distinct clicks, and not the “mushy” one!
all mine were hi 1st, low second, the fix is to rewire to your liking , I prefer low first, hi second, I never new the very old models were wired that way
LOL....I wondered why I was confused about the high-power position on my gun. I just checked....I have the spring one and the higher wattage is trigger fully engaged.
I have the older weller 8200 from about 2002. That iron operates the same way the current 9400 operates which is 140/100 watts. So it's been backwards for a long time. Also something interesting I got my 9400 in 2021 and the switch has a two step click to is. It's also more recessed then yours is. When did you buy your 9400?
Well done video -- THANKS! However... in recent years, I personally have never had decent reliability from any of the numerous Weller guns due to extremely weak switch connections inside the body, and the switches themselves. Back in the 1970's, these were just about bullet proof (wish I still had just one from then). Is there a reasonably priced alternate brand that is better (wouldn't take much)?
I still have the D-550 from the 60s, its on its second bakelight housing, The long gone electronics store sold replacement housings. First switch position Lo, second Hi. My preferences is for the original tips, not copper wire.
Do you find the trigger on the new model to be a bit notchy?.. I just bought this one today and I find the trigger not very smooth especially as it extends back out after full depression.
I have one of the black ones that the switch is backwards. If I want more heat, I just click it once. Weird. I just bought the new red one because the black one works when it wants to
It was changed because most people use the higher wattage. But most people want to squeeze all the way in, so it makes more since to set the wattage higher their. It's the half-full, half-empty issue.
I have one like the red one you showed. I've had the others in the past. The new one's switch is pure crap. Mine has never worked correctly. Half the time it makes no connection at all.
That's pretty cool information. A quick question: I was trying to desolder a chinese LED PCD board and my iron never got hot enough to melt. Do they use something special?
@@stevent3450 Silver... That may be it. It looked like normal 60/40. Other traces on the board was 60/40 except on a few capacitors and main input. Thanks for your feedback...
@@tonypitsacota2513, Unmost Weller style sonoring irons if the device stops heating you need to loosen and retyton the screws or nuts that hold the tip in place period oxidation builds app on the connection and has resistance and causes poor heating but if you lose and retype in the screws or nuts it will bite through the oxidation and make a good clean connection again period I actually loaned one of my saturing guns to my brother some years ago And his kid was playing with it until it stopped heating period my brother, thinking his kid had broken it, threw it away! I am sure all it needed was the tip holding bolts or screws to be loosened and retightened....
Could it be the previous owner swapped them intentionally so that it makes more sense? I guess the reason they are as they are is to prevent it from burning out since these aren't meant for continious use.
The switching was probably changed to prevent the inexperienced user from burning the tip, such users seem to think hotter is better when soldering. The tips will glow red hot if held on max position for excessive time! Some think that these guns will solder large lumps of copper to car battery gauge cable and the like! Soldering seems to be a difficult skill to learn for some!
@@turboslag, I saw some cheap Chinese made Soldering guns in the late 80s that would indeed turn the tips red hot; they were completely useless pieces of junk. I've never seen this happen with a Weller, and I've been soldering with these things for well over 50 years.
For soldering to a chassis or for heavy duty jobs, a iron with some thermal mass is preferable. Really, really big jobs? Use an industrial iron like the American Beauty models used on stained glass work. No, I'm not suggesting they be used on SMD's or point to point wiring of electronics.
Sounds like an assembly error, or misinterpretation of a diagram, wording, definition of which 'position' is first contact closed 'position-1?, or position-2? and other reasons, but most likely an error.
I won't to thank you. I have one of those nice weller guns I bought one long time ago , Red color And I aske about the original tips how I can get one please. Thanks again very much. I am from Jordan.
"Bulb burning out". Is that what they're calling it these days? 😅 I've had a few no-names that I never really used and gave away. I'd rather use my grandfather's old plumbing iron instead. Its a big old beast with a cloth covered cord - it's old. If you've ever seen D-Lab's Snozzaramous, it makes that look like a toy.
I have a soldering iron like the one you describe, probably for sheet metal work originally. It looks like something you would drop in a mortar firing tube and lob at Russian invaders!
Hi, Tony! Here is something for your interest... The RUclipsr "IMSAI Guy" had a mystery board that he was trying to identify. He thought it might be a Xray Board. The video title is " #1448 X-Ray Board?? " You might see if you can help him out. He has a good channel, too. Sorry to hack your video, but it was the only way I knew to reach you.
Hard to imagine anyone that uses the iron regularly making the decision to change the design from a 'reliable nut locking the tip on' - to 'strip prone threaded bolts'. Likewise the counter-intuitive manufacturers decision to have high power on first click and low power on full trigger depression. I could imagine that 'some-one' thought that it would be better to have full depress of trigger at low power so that the tip lasted longer before oxidizing and that the tip would get a brief power surge as trigger slowly depressed. Maybe less complaints / hassles from newbies melting things and giving negative reviews? OK, kudos for trying to improve lifespan (to the detriment of functionality), but why then change to the small bolts securing the tip which dramatically shortens the usable life of the entire iron due to the threads stripping out quickly. Daft. Got that 'marketing department' over-riding engineers smell to it. Cheaper to make I suppose. Shorter useful life as well. Marketing bulls-eye. I suppose there's always lots and lots of newbies coming along that will buy and hardly use, not so many that appreciate a well designed functional tool and probably only buy a new one every 20 or-so years.
I have had the old 100/140 watt version for 40 years. It finally gave up the ghost. Bough a new model of Amazon. Nowhere near the build quality of the older one I have. The newer unit feels cheap and the trigger switch crapped out after 3 uses. Tried to contact Weller on this but they will not respond. Garbage product and service.
Bought a 8200 yearsssssssssssss ago, never let me down!. One day, they are gonna stop making the tips, so we can throw these in the garbage, and buy newer plastic crap :( ...
Everyone please note: If you use a weller soldering gun, you are inconsequential. The above statement must be true, as it was written in all capital letters. As a side note, if you are not being serious when performing electronic repair and using a weller soldering gun, you may possibly still be consequential, but this would have to be confirmed by the one who knows all people of consequence. ;)
you need a Solder gun to properly heat a Chassis direct connection, (like tube Gear/Vitage tube TV), everyone who works on tube chassis should have a Soldering Gun, a plain iron just doesn't do it. Tony is correct on his use of these Tools
Well, no comments of consequence are written in all caps. And it is foolish to ridicule others with blanket assertions such as "only amateurs use crap like this", all the while attaching terms like "crap" to good quality tools that the writer does not understand. Hell, this commenter does not even bother to define what he means by "serious electronics repair", whatever that might mean to others. Finally, people of no consequence are quite fond of slapping "LOL" on the ends of their thoughtless, ignorant statements.
I asked for a Weller 8200 for my birthday present around 1964 . In anticipation in receiving it, I had a bunch of speaker wires twisted before my birthday. Yes, I received it for my birthday. I soldered those speaker wires with the 8200. Later that year, I took a summer school "radio shop" class in between 7th and 8th grade where we built a Packard Bell 5R1 superheterodyne A.M. radio kit and I hand wired the radio and soldered it with the Weller soldering gun. It's what the instructor expected us to use to build the radio. I still have that radio. Fast forward to 2023. I still have the same soldering gun and like you, I use it frequently. This soldering gun will outlive me and may outlive my young son. It could last a couple of centuries. They're great tools.
By the way, it all led to "harder stuff" and I kept up with electronics, got a ham license and in the end earned an Electronics Engineering degree. I had a 35 year career with one of the largest computer companies.
That soldering gun had a lot to do with it.
I brought Weller older version that manufactured in Lancaster, PA and it still doing a good job of electric train and old TV repaire with Simpson 260 and Simpson Watt meter. I have a large Hi Wattage one that all shell are broken off and still working. I used to collect these soldering when I was a small child back in 1960 . Sill love them!
I got mine back in 1967, I was at school learning electronics building my first AAFR in a board, never made any whisper but it was so nice with all parts and tubes lighted up I was 17 years old, 😢😊
I bought a Weller iron from a local flea market in 1987. It was new in its box. I still have it. It is 140/100 watts. The label has that order and the higher wattage is the first position.
My Dad made one in his Industrial Arts class in college in the 50s. That included winding the transformer and vacuum forming the plastic case/handle after making the forms and mold heater. Still have it. 😊
I have a Weller Junior from 1957. It was gifted to me in 1961 by a dear friend. It is one heat only, but it has TWO headlights! I've picked up two more big, two heat Weller guns at yard sales with almost giveaway prices. You can never have too many guns, soldering guns that is!
I still have the Weller I bought from Lafayette radio in the late 50"s and it still works fine. I always started out with the trigger at high heat to get the tip hotter faster. If I needed a tip fast I'd just use a piece of 12 or 14 bare Romex - not as good as the iron plated tips but it worked in a pinch. I also have the Simpson 260 from the same era.
Good tools last a long time.
I bought mine in 1974 and never burnt out a bulb.and used it everyday to install remote starts and car stereos.and I use 12 gauge electrical wire for the tips.
I have one of the old 100/140 watt units and have replaced the normal tip with a relatively short piece of 14 ga. copper wire. It gets a fair bit hotter and is handy for soldering things to a metal chassis in a guitar amp. Mr. Carlson's Lab inspired that.
I bet the thinking was 1st click high to get temp up fast, then full pull-low just to maintain the tip temp for longevity of all parts concerned.
I was checking out videos to buy a new soldering gun as mine was slower than I remembered, until I saw this video and discovered I was trying to solder on the low voltage setting when I pulled the trigger all the way back. I have now put a stop in the trigger so it does not go to the low setting any more. Thank you as I did not know the settings were reversed compared to the soldering guns I used in the past.
This one really brought back memories. I had one, a very old model handed down from my late father. I think it never had an original tip after the factory one worn away, and my genius father bent a thick copper wire to shape and used it like that for years. Me, being the "new" generation, got an original tip for it but soon after, I managed to drop it while working on top of a ladder. It shattered to pieces. I tried to put its pieces together with a 2-part epoxy glue, but unfortunately, it didn't hold. Now, I have a cheap knock-off because I very rarely have the need for a high temp soldering gun. It works, but it really still hurt me inside when I remember that I destroyed my father's Weller.
I have an 8200, which I bought decades ago, to start building hifi kits...Dynaco, Hafler, Eico, etc. Still works like new. My 1964 Lafayette Radio catalog, prices it at $4.56, $4.07 in quantity.
I bought my first solder weller when i was 14years, about 40 years ago , i had different solder brand , German weller to Japanese hako, and pace US made . Now my best ever solder is JBC solder. Quality of tip is top notch . Temperature sensor is inbuilt in tip , it has power controlled vs temperature, it never drope the temperature with big component, highly recommended.
I have a D550 260/200w and I always thought when I pulled the trigger all the way in was high temp now I know it's the other way. Thanks for sharing 👍
Interesting observation!
Thank YOU, Sir! Just bought the new 9400PKS, and won't have ever figured out the switch positions.
There's the early D550. Dual headlights and a really thick cord.
Thanks. 'Very' useful info (didn't know here either). Happy you shared it.
Nice collection of Weller guns! :) I bought an 8200 new back in the mid '80's. Still working fine. It also has the high setting on the first click. Always thought that was weird. Paul Carlson has an old video where he described how he reversed that condition on his own 8200's. I might just do that come to think of it.... Great content as usual! Thanks!
The earliest Weller guns were 100-watt only. The trigger was just an on-off switch. These are slightly more rounded in styling than the later two heat models. The bigger high-power gun was also just a single heat unit of 250 watts as I recall. Both of these had two of the #222 flashlight bulbs, on on either side of the gun. The #222 bulb was very commonly available and was intended for use in pencil flashlights. It has the advantage of the lens in the end which concentrates the light into a smaller spot. Weller later used a different single bulb, also with an internal lens. When the two heat irons came out, they all had the lower heat on the first position and the higher heat with full depression of the trigger. Several guys with whom I worked, swapped the wires on the switch so that with the trigger fully depressed, you had the lower heat. The argument was (as solid-state was looming on the horizon about this time) that you more commonly used the lower heat, and besides that was what you were used to, and it was more comfortable to work with the trigger fully depressed, rather than attempt to hold it in-between positions.
Good operating practice, called out in the leaflet included with the irons, was to periodically slightly loosen the nuts on the bit and re-tighten them to clear out oxide which would form in the joint and prevent the iron from heating all the way. Weller developed a coated bit for use in the irons, which had a blunt end on it. The style bit on the irons shown in this video is the older configuration. The older style has a bit more tip mass which makes them a bit more efficient heating a joint, but they have an annoying habit of burning out right behind the tip. That led to the practice of using 14 gauge wire or else coat hanger wire in place of official tips as it was a lot cheaper to replace.
A common trick soldering a very heavy piece of work, such as the sleeve of a PL-259 UHF connector, was to take the bit out of the unit altogether and press the ends directly against the work so that the current passed through the work and heated it directly. It was worth doing if you had several connectors to solder and works well once you get the hang of it.
Thanks! I just bought a D550 - and as you said - the heat was hotter using the switch in the first position, rather than the second which I thought was obvious but it wasn't!
Geez..my Dad had that old black one with the spring. I remember playing with it when I was a "little shaver".
Still have mine and it works almost 55 yrs old
Excellent information!
I still have my 1st Weller soldering gun I bought in 1963, broke the case a couple times and had to buy new cases two times. I bought a 2nd Weller clone from Radio Shack that was relabeled Archer, it had a different light bulb, this one I did not break its case. Both are 100 / 140 watters, second click of the switch is the higher wattage on both. With 12 or 14 gauge wire in place of the normal tip, it makes a great soldering tool for soldering to a steel chassis. My guess why they made changes to the switch action is, like why a multi speed fan, 1st click on is high, to get it going faster.
My Dad gave me a D8200 to build a Heathkit VTVM. I still have both, but the Weller gets a lot more use. That was 63 years ago
Wow. Amazing. Never knew this. Thank you
I picked up an 8200 with case at a garage sale last year for $7 I think. I love using it on large connections that my smaller iron can't handle.
i guessed what the video is about right from the beginning :)
i found one of the orange ones at a garage sale and got it for my friend and i used a marker to indicate the wattage positions... that being said, at some point i had to open it as the switch was acting up and the trigger does have two clicks. but things can move around if dropped and the mechanism stops working as intended. the clicks are not as well defined as in the older models.
the backwards switch makes sense to me as it's easier to hold it all the way in when soldering and in most situations the low temp is hot enough to perform well. the new ones are also considerably lighter.
I was fighting with soldering a plug for a half hour before using a benzomatic butane iron burning my fingers and got nowhere. I went and got the red gun and within a minute the plug was soldered. I also used leaded solder which stunk out my whole house. I’m getting yelled at right now. That gun is crazy powerful. Thanks for the info.
WELL! That explains why the one I had from the 90's never heated up as fast as the one my dad has from the late 50's. I actually got fed up with it, and bought a Wall Lenk. Interesting info about the bulbs burning out. Could never keep a bulb working for long in any of the Wellers.
Excellent info thanks
Excellent find I would never knowing that it would be backwards I wonder if the wire can be change around on the switch easily so you can get full temperature when pressed all the way in.
Thank you very much
Thanks again 👍
Interesting. Now you have me curious about the Australian spec. models. I have an older lower wattage model found at a garage sale many years ago. My first iron was an Australian made IC202D that I still use in the garage. My current iron is a Hakko. I've given up on Weller as the quality has dropped so much. I also have a monster Birko iron made here in Victoria (Aust.) that is over 60cm (2 foot) long with a 3/4 inch tip. It's great for chassis on valve radios.
I learned a thing or two! 👍
Golly geez mr Wizard,thank you. Doc BC
Tony forgot to mention the paddle shaped tips that you can buy for these guns, or at least you used to be able to buy them....they were for "welding" broken plastic back together and can be quite useful.
Question: If I was to put a 17Khz signal into the external input of my HP-8656B would that cycle the stereo indicator on?
Found this out a few years back when I finally bought my own Weller soldering gun kit. Hadn’t used one in a long time, but they were all the low first click, high second click. Could not figure out why when mashing the trigger to the second click, it seemed to not work as well. What was wrong? Then I read the wattage on the side and saw the reversed wattages… I’m sure there was a reason for the switch, but what? I am, though thankful I got one with two distinct clicks, and not the “mushy” one!
all mine were hi 1st, low second, the fix is to rewire to your liking , I prefer low first, hi second, I never new the very old models were wired that way
LOL....I wondered why I was confused about the high-power position on my gun. I just checked....I have the spring one and the higher wattage is trigger fully engaged.
My old Blue Point 260/200 switches high then low as well.
I found that out from a comment made by Mr. Carlson's Lab. He took his apart and rewired his switch so as to make it like the old ones.
I have the older weller 8200 from about 2002. That iron operates the same way the current 9400 operates which is 140/100 watts. So it's been backwards for a long time. Also something interesting I got my 9400 in 2021 and the switch has a two step click to is. It's also more recessed then yours is. When did you buy your 9400?
Well done video -- THANKS!
However... in recent years, I personally have never had decent reliability from any of the numerous Weller guns due to extremely weak switch connections inside the body, and the switches themselves. Back in the 1970's, these were just about bullet proof (wish I still had just one from then). Is there a reasonably priced alternate brand that is better (wouldn't take much)?
I still have the D-550 from the 60s, its on its second bakelight housing, The long gone electronics store sold replacement housings. First switch position Lo, second Hi.
My preferences is for the original tips, not copper wire.
The paddle shaped tips for smoothing plastic and welding cracked plastic pieces back together are also useful.
Do you find the trigger on the new model to be a bit notchy?.. I just bought this one today and I find the trigger not very smooth especially as it extends back out after full depression.
I have one of the black ones that the switch is backwards. If I want more heat, I just click it once. Weird. I just bought the new red one because the black one works when it wants to
It was changed because most people use the higher wattage. But most people want to squeeze all the way in, so it makes more since to set the wattage higher their. It's the half-full, half-empty issue.
👍
what type of flux(s) do you use?
I have one like the red one you showed. I've had the others in the past. The new one's switch is pure crap. Mine has never worked correctly. Half the time it makes no connection at all.
That's pretty cool information. A quick question: I was trying to desolder a chinese LED PCD board and my iron never got hot enough to melt. Do they use something special?
if they used silver solder then you would need a hotter iron to melt
@@stevent3450 Silver... That may be it. It looked like normal 60/40. Other traces on the board was 60/40 except on a few capacitors and main input. Thanks for your feedback...
@@tonypitsacota2513, Unmost Weller style sonoring irons if the device stops heating you need to loosen and retyton the screws or nuts that hold the tip in place period oxidation builds app on the connection and has resistance and causes poor heating but if you lose and retype in the screws or nuts it will bite through the oxidation and make a good clean connection again period I actually loaned one of my saturing guns to my brother some years ago And his kid was playing with it until it stopped heating period my brother, thinking his kid had broken it, threw it away! I am sure all it needed was the tip holding bolts or screws to be loosened and retightened....
Lots of old equipment uses a bulb as a “fuse”
Could it be the previous owner swapped them intentionally so that it makes more sense? I guess the reason they are as they are is to prevent it from burning out since these aren't meant for continious use.
Cool Beans…….!
The switching was probably changed to prevent the inexperienced user from burning the tip, such users seem to think hotter is better when soldering. The tips will glow red hot if held on max position for excessive time! Some think that these guns will solder large lumps of copper to car battery gauge cable and the like! Soldering seems to be a difficult skill to learn for some!
The tip will NOT glow red hot
@@ericschulze5641
It will on mine, in fact two of mine.
@@turboslag think you got the wrong guy
@@turboslag, I saw some cheap Chinese made Soldering guns in the late 80s that would indeed turn the tips red hot; they were completely useless pieces of junk. I've never seen this happen with a Weller, and I've been soldering with these things for well over 50 years.
Like my guitar amp, I only use them in mono...
For soldering to a chassis or for heavy duty jobs, a iron with some thermal mass is preferable. Really, really big jobs? Use an industrial iron like the American Beauty models used on stained glass work. No, I'm not suggesting they be used on SMD's or point to point wiring of electronics.
Sounds like an assembly error, or misinterpretation of a diagram, wording, definition of which 'position' is first contact closed 'position-1?, or position-2?
and other reasons, but most likely an error.
I won't to thank you.
I have one of those nice weller guns I bought one long time ago , Red color
And I aske about the original tips how I can get one please.
Thanks again very much.
I am from Jordan.
"Bulb burning out". Is that what they're calling it these days? 😅
I've had a few no-names that I never really used and gave away. I'd rather use my grandfather's old plumbing iron instead. Its a big old beast with a cloth covered cord - it's old. If you've ever seen D-Lab's Snozzaramous, it makes that look like a toy.
I have a soldering iron like the one you describe, probably for sheet metal work originally. It looks like something you would drop in a mortar firing tube and lob at Russian invaders!
Care mus be take not to use it in continuous way, Yow may burn the primary .
Hi, Tony! Here is something for your interest... The RUclipsr "IMSAI Guy" had a mystery board that he was trying to identify. He thought it might be a Xray Board. The video title is " #1448 X-Ray Board?? " You might see if you can help him out. He has a good channel, too. Sorry to hack your video, but it was the only way I knew to reach you.
Hard to imagine anyone that uses the iron regularly making the decision to change the design from a 'reliable nut locking the tip on' - to 'strip prone threaded bolts'.
Likewise the counter-intuitive manufacturers decision to have high power on first click and low power on full trigger depression.
I could imagine that 'some-one' thought that it would be better to have full depress of trigger at low power so that the tip lasted longer before oxidizing and that the tip would get a brief power surge as trigger slowly depressed. Maybe less complaints / hassles from newbies melting things and giving negative reviews?
OK, kudos for trying to improve lifespan (to the detriment of functionality), but why then change to the small bolts securing the tip which dramatically shortens the usable life of the entire iron due to the threads stripping out quickly.
Daft. Got that 'marketing department' over-riding engineers smell to it.
Cheaper to make I suppose. Shorter useful life as well. Marketing bulls-eye.
I suppose there's always lots and lots of newbies coming along that will buy and hardly use, not so many that appreciate a well designed functional tool and probably only buy a new one every 20 or-so years.
I have had the old 100/140 watt version for 40 years. It finally gave up the ghost. Bough a new model of Amazon. Nowhere near the build quality of the older one I have. The newer unit feels cheap and the trigger switch crapped out after 3 uses. Tried to contact Weller on this but they will not respond. Garbage product and service.
Can u give me one of them plzz
Lmfao
Is there copper in the olde Weller?
Don't think about scrapping it good Lord lol
Bought a 8200 yearsssssssssssss ago, never let me down!. One day, they are gonna stop making the tips, so we can throw these in the garbage, and buy newer plastic crap :( ...
Don't do that! See Paul Carson's video of using a 14ga (I believe) copper wire fashioned into a tip.
NOBODY OF ANY CONSEQUENCE USES WELLER GUNS LIKE YOURS FOR SERIOUS ELECTRONIC REPAIR....! Only amateurs use crap like this for delicate work...LOL!
Everyone please note: If you use a weller soldering gun, you are inconsequential. The above statement must be true, as it was written in all capital letters. As a side note, if you are not being serious when performing electronic repair and using a weller soldering gun, you may possibly still be consequential, but this would have to be confirmed by the one who knows all people of consequence. ;)
Different tools for different purposes. When repairing tube gear soldering guns are as relevant as when I first used them in 1966.
you need a Solder gun to properly heat a Chassis direct connection, (like tube Gear/Vitage tube TV), everyone who works on tube chassis should have a Soldering Gun, a plain iron just doesn't do it. Tony is correct on his use of these Tools
Well, no comments of consequence are written in all caps.
And it is foolish to ridicule others with blanket assertions such as "only amateurs use crap like this", all the while attaching terms like "crap" to good quality tools that the writer does not understand.
Hell, this commenter does not even bother to define what he means by "serious electronics repair", whatever that might mean to others.
Finally, people of no consequence are quite fond of slapping "LOL" on the ends of their thoughtless, ignorant statements.
If I'd only known this earlier, I wouldn't have tried using one of these for soldering SM components, what a silly amateur am I.
Sarcasm mode off.