Thx for all your vids, I have learned so much, just bought a 91 560sec with just over 206k, taking my time going thru it to make sure I get it right thx again.
Thank you very much for your videos. You are among the very few that explain things correctly and you also have a very calm voice which helps a lot. However, I do have a question for you please: at ~ 12:00 you mention about the "learning mode" of the ECU (N3). In all the videos I watched and people I talked to, nobody said that. In fact, when I specifically asked others about it, I was told that the N3 ECU of the KE-Jetronic W126 did not have that capability. Furthermore, you also mention 40 engine starts to complete the learning. Did Mercedes mention that in any of their W126 FRM procedures too? Are you sure the N3 of our cars has that capability and how do you know is 40 engine starts? I appreciate your knowledge and look forward to your reply. Thank you. Roy
Hi Roy, This is pretty much detailed in the groups which deal with the EzL and Ecu. A learning mode may not be the exact term especially not when compared to today’s standard. The ecu has a RAM chip and the microcontroller stores constantly certain values to RAM, like RPM, coolant temp etc. It takes 40 starts plus driving several miles to fill this memory back up which is then used during starting and driving as database for comparison and to calculate average mean values. This memory can be erased by two methods: 1. Full reset after last error was reset by moving ignition key to off before 10 seconds after reset. 2. By disconnecting the negative lead of the battery for more then 10 seconds All this data does is to smoothen out operations and works after the FIFO principal. First in First out - so data is rewritten every time you drive
@@inovahightechltd Thank you, Peter. I have the manuals applicable to W126 with V8. Which section do you recommend? I am assuming you are referring to one or more that would be in group 07.3 (Mechanical-Electronic Gasoline Injection). I am genuinely interested and would like to read more on this subject; I have two 126 models, both with V8. Thank you again, Roy
Roy, I have to look through my manuals. I have different versions between English and German. I believe it was in the addendum for 86 model change or a service bulletin. I will report back to once I find it but that may take a couple of days until I get to it. Sincerely Peter
Very informative video. I wish you a happy new year. I have KE-Jetronic. MB 2.0 M102.962 If I change the free play on air flow sensor plate from 2.0mm to 1.5mm, will the volts on potensiometer (TPS) change (0.7volts)?
thank you for such an informative video! my only doubt is how do you tighten the rt/bottom screw of potentiometer, once you achieve 0.70v when the fuel pressure regulator does not allow any room to get a torx 15 or any other tool in there...? at least it's my case on 92, 300e, 2.6l thank you, would appreciate comment-procedure
You have to remove the fuel pressure regulator then adjust the pot, tighten the screws but not fully tight so you can install the pressure reg to turn on the car and adjust the pot. Once set you have to remove the regulator to tighten down the pot screws
Hello I found gas leaking from the middle of fuel distributor where the gasket is. I heard that the distributor shouldn't be taken apart. I found three screws on top of the distributor and tightened them a little bit more but not so tight to the point of stripping the screws. I haven't seen if it's still leaking after I tightened the screws. The fuel distributor was leaking when it was running but it doesn't leak when it's off. Thank you
Hi, finally got the potentiometer. Followed the procedure. Did plate adjustment with engine off, set slightly leaner than before. Set V to 0.7. Reset computer. On restarting warm the Rpm is high, 2000 or so. Not idling down.
The high idle issue is solely between Idle Speed Control Valve, Idle Speed Control Unit - Operating Voltage for those is supplied by OVP Relay The Potentiometer you adjusted supplies feedback only to ecu for emissions control / fuel mixture - has nothing to do with idle
@@thomasbuerkle2141 if both ICV and ISCU checkout ok then you have a massive vacuum leak - check brake booster and brake booster vacuum hose and all other vacuum lines connected to rear right side of upper intake manifold
I did the initial CO adjustment like you described but I do not have any play in the plate then. If i want to have a 1.9mm play in the plate i need to turn it 4 times counter clockwise. So i don‘t know what would be the right initial setup or if anything else is wrong.
Christian, You may want to watch this video too. Then the hole thing may make more sense! Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/YM4VDYaKdFM/видео.html
Hi Richie, if you have a V8 3.8 4.2 5 or 5.6 Liter engine then you may want to watch this video here to answer your question since it really depends on what your current position for the stop and resting position is: ruclips.net/video/G-4Is19H5TQ/видео.html
Hello thank you for the video . I have a question I ajusted my pontentimete at. 0,7V than I ajusted the air plate and potentiometre changes the value from 0,7 is it normal or I have a problem with my potentiometer . Thank you best regards
Got my analog meter, expecting the potentiometer and Hirschmann clamps soon. M103 six cylinder engine. I adjusted the plate as described after fuel system rebuild. Starts and runs a little rough with some black smoke. How well should it run after this preliminary adjustment? Disconnecting the harness to existing (old) potentiometer kills the engine. Should I be connecting the hirschmann clamps and the potentiometer harness at the same time? I will have to reset after the new potentiometer arrives but I wanted to see if I could make it run with the old one for now. Thanks for this great video, big help.
Fairly smooth, you may need to lean the mixture out a bit more. Was the fuel Distributor rebuilt as well? The engine will be idling rough if the mixture is to rich or to lean - if the old potentiometer is bad then the ecu will run the engine rich as it opens the EHA valve fully - its like a limb mode - I would wait until I get the new potentiometer before making any further adjustments. The Hirschmann clamps have to be connected with the harness connector at the same time. Pull connector off, attach the clamps from the side on the pins as close as possible to the potentiometer and then push connector on and as far as it will go against the clamps to make sure you have a good contact
And the other question, have you opened the camshaft cover and checked the marks for tdc on balancer, camshaft and distributor? They all three have to line up as well
@@thomasbuerkle2141 black smoke is usually a indicator of to much fuel. If you haven’t rebuilt your fuel distributor then you may want to check if your fuel distributor is leaking: 1. Remove fuel pump relay and bridge contact to activate the fuel pump check your wiring diagram for ur car to see which two contacts need to be jumped. 2. Open each fuel line on the fuel injector one by one - there should be no fuel coming out except of what was in the fuel line already 3. If you got fuel flowing out of any one or two lines then your distributor needs to rebuild 4. If you got fuel flowing out of every line then your plate is adjusted to high - turn mixture screw counter clockwise until fuel flow stops on all six cylinders 5. At this point turn set screw another quarter turn counter clockwise, remove jumper, re insert fuel pump relay and start car normally - this first start will be rough to start and you may have to crank for up to 60 seconds until all air has come out of the system - once engine fires step on gas and rev up to 4000 rpm to bleed fuel system completely for about 15 seconds After those type of fuel repairs there is a good chance too that the cylinders are flooded - once engine starts accelerate engine to 2000 rpm and if it was flooded the excess fuel will burn off within a few seconds to a couple of minutes - expect plenty of smoke - let engine reach operating temperature and let it idle for 5 to 10 minutes then shut engine off
Hi, I have replaced the potentiometer with another original bosch A0000740136 on my w201 2.3-16v (m102.983) no catalysed mercedes. The voltage between pins 1-2 would be 0,7-0,75 too? Thanks for sharing your videos.
Yes, but I believe on the Porsche / VW the plate action is in the opposite direction from the MB system, meaning plate moves up, not down. Otherwise everything is the same
@@inovahightechltd Thanks! You make what was a mysterious fuel system simple! My problem is I messed with the 3mm Allen and that was that! So I want to bring it back to a baseline so it starts...
Craig, just follow the video(s) it takes patience but once you get the hang of it then it’s a piece of cake! Just remember, plate adjustment with Allen key only with a running fuel pump (jumper the fpr) otherwise you will loose your hair! Peter
Hi, I bought a potentiometer from the seller you have recommended. The resistance between pin 1 and 3 is ~ 1,7kOhm. I've contacted the seller an he told me that Mercedes specification of ~4.2 is irrelevant becouse the use of better materials in his product. Do you agree? Thank you.
Hi Fabi, genuinely it should not be a big problem. The quiescent current with 4.2K is 1.2 mA and with 1.7K is 2.9 mA. The question is, can you adjust the pot to 0.75V between top and middle pin when engine is at correct idle speed?
@@fabit.8734 Hi Fabi, I looked further into this question yesterday and investigated the input parts used in the ECU’s. I have several here for 103, 116 and 117 and all use the same input circuit for pin #17 (wiper from poti). Those are two 1% metal film 1/8W resistor in series between 5V and Ground . Those are R300 10KOhm and R313 510KOhm. The connection between both is pin 17. This divider network will have 4.96V on pin 17 with poti disconnected which the ecu recognizes as error and turns on engine check light. With the Bosch Poti 4.2K the voltage on pin 17 will go from 0 to 2.5 V with 0.75 V set as idle reference and Throttle switch closed in idle position. With the 1.7K potentiometer the voltage range will be reduced to 0V to app 2.1V which means the engine is going to run richer but may experience substantial acceleration problems in warmup phase between 45C to 75C coolant temp. I soldered in a parallel 5.36 KOhm to R313 510 KOhm in my ECU which limits the Voltage range now on pin 17 from 0V to 1.7V which eliminates the warmup acceleration/power issue but also may limit the highest attainable rpm from 6000 to around 4500rpm over all - I need to verify this fact with possibly reduced max rpm in more detail in the next few days. We got a snowstorm here today and have 1/4” of ice below the snow. Thanks again for pointing this out. I will make a video on this issue and would like to know if I can mention your name in the video. Sincerely Petet
Hi i been watching your videos and think you are a genius ❤ please can you help me with some vacum lines in my that are disconected and dont have an idea on how they go please help thank you !
Great video. I just got an 85 380sl, wouldnt idle, and now I see what a lot of the parts do. I have a car restoration channel, and perhaps you might like it.
Following some bad advice I tried to adjust my sensor plate and got it so far out of adjustment I can't even get my car to run now. Without it running I can't properly measure the duty cycle or any of the other adjustments like the potentiometer. How can I get plate gap back close enough so that I can at least get it running ?
Remove your fuel pump relay and bridge contact 7 and 8 with a jumper. This way you got fuel pressure in distributor. Don’t start the car yet. Push down on your plate until you can hear fuel flowing. Your plate should be only about 2mm below resting point with fuel pressure. If you can push the plate in below this then your to lean - if the plate has a lot of resistance then your to rich - you need 2mm play between resting and fuel flow
And make sure the Allen screw which is spring loaded releases the set screw below - they can get stuck when Allen key is depressed then the plate doesn’t reach the fuel distributor plunger and you get no fuel flow
Then your car should start / leave fuel pump jumped for the moment - if it doesn’t start turn 1/8 ccw to lean this way the vacuum has less resistance to move plate down - but be careful these adjustments shout only be made I. 1/16 or 1/8 increment turns in either direction
Hello , I'm restoring a 560SL 70,000 miles which was parked for 10 years before was parked I removed the gas tank , now the car has been painted and is almost ready to go, I connected all wires and relays, cleaned all terminals , placed new battery , changed fuel distributor seals and cleaned ,cleaned injectors , spark plugs , wires distributor cap were new before parked the car. I crank the car and it started but just for few seconds maybe like 10-15 seconds with rough idle and smell of gas , I took the sparks out and notice that they were wet on gas . cables are OK already checked them all send spark, do you think the sparks can be damaged to be stored for that long? also something important my car does not have installed the exhaust the whole so don't have the O2 Sensor. could that be the reason ? the car starts every time the same . already cleaned the Idle valve it improved just a little . Need advice. thanks
Hi Alex, This points to a failing fuel distributor. Time to get a rebuilt one. The O2 is irrelevant during start / warm up. It comes into play when the engine has warmed up and goes from open loop to closed loop control by the ECU.
Time to replace it. Not sure if you saw all the other videos I made of testing those and all the other parts. The potentiometer is only used for the EHA valve control to adjust mixture. When cold, the engine runs pretty rich until at operating temperature. The engine will start and run without the ECU and EHA valve operational - this is called the limb mode and indicated by the illuminated check engine light.
@@inovahightechltd Hello, thanks, I have seen several of your videos , there is a parts store that has the potentiometer in $28 I don’t know if is good has good reviews. I opened my bad potentiometer and found a 3006P-1-201 which costs $3.23 inside , seems to be fair easy to replace and resoldering in place
Hola alguien me puede decir que módulo de encendido lleva este v8?, tengo un motor sin el módulo de encendido y necesito saber que referencia o una fotografía. Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos
Hola David, ¡gracias por tu comentario! No hablo español y estoy usando el traductor de Google para escribir esta respuesta. No puedo copiar su comentario en el traductor de Google, así que le pediré a mi amigo Martin que me lo traduzca y luego responderemos a su pregunta. Pedro
Hola Que ano es tu carro y modelo yo tengo un 82 mercedes 380 sl y tengo unas lineas que no se donde van conectadas tu podrias compartir un retrato ? Saludos!
Thx for all your vids, I have learned so much, just bought a 91 560sec with just over 206k, taking my time going thru it to make sure I get it right thx again.
Great and congratulations! Feel free to ask if something is not clear or seems to be missing!
Very indepth info for this topic ever uploaded👏 Thank you sir. I'm subscribed.
Finally, someone who knows what he is talking about.
Thanks!
Thank You!
Love it. Thank You so much!
Great video, amazing content and explanation. Thanks for being so passionate with our Cars!!!!
Excellent tutorial. I couldn't find the links your mentioned. Please advise. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your videos. You are among the very few that explain things correctly and you also have a very calm voice which helps a lot. However, I do have a question for you please: at ~ 12:00 you mention about the "learning mode" of the ECU (N3). In all the videos I watched and people I talked to, nobody said that. In fact, when I specifically asked others about it, I was told that the N3 ECU of the KE-Jetronic W126 did not have that capability. Furthermore, you also mention 40 engine starts to complete the learning. Did Mercedes mention that in any of their W126 FRM procedures too? Are you sure the N3 of our cars has that capability and how do you know is 40 engine starts?
I appreciate your knowledge and look forward to your reply. Thank you.
Roy
Hi Roy,
This is pretty much detailed in the groups which deal with the EzL and Ecu.
A learning mode may not be the exact term especially not when compared to today’s standard.
The ecu has a RAM chip and the microcontroller stores constantly certain values to RAM, like RPM, coolant temp etc.
It takes 40 starts plus driving several miles to fill this memory back up which is then used during starting and driving as database for comparison and to calculate average mean values.
This memory can be erased by two methods:
1. Full reset after last error was reset by moving ignition key to off before 10 seconds after reset.
2. By disconnecting the negative lead of the battery for more then 10 seconds
All this data does is to smoothen out operations and works after the FIFO principal. First in First out - so data is rewritten every time you drive
@@inovahightechltd I most highly appreciate your reply, thank you. Will have a closer look at your videos.
Hi Roy,
Please keep in mind that this is documented in the Manuals with model change in 1986
Sincerely, Petet
@@inovahightechltd Thank you, Peter. I have the manuals applicable to W126 with V8. Which section do you recommend? I am assuming you are referring to one or more that would be in group 07.3 (Mechanical-Electronic Gasoline Injection). I am genuinely interested and would like to read more on this subject; I have two 126 models, both with V8.
Thank you again,
Roy
Roy, I have to look through my manuals. I have different versions between English and German. I believe it was in the addendum for 86 model change or a service bulletin.
I will report back to once I find it but that may take a couple of days until I get to it. Sincerely Peter
Very informative video. I wish you a happy new year. I have KE-Jetronic. MB 2.0 M102.962 If I change the free play on air flow sensor plate from 2.0mm to 1.5mm, will the volts on potensiometer (TPS) change (0.7volts)?
thank you for such an informative video!
my only doubt is how do you tighten the rt/bottom screw of potentiometer, once you achieve 0.70v when the fuel pressure regulator does not allow any room to get a torx 15 or any other tool in there...? at least it's my case on 92, 300e, 2.6l
thank you, would appreciate comment-procedure
You have to remove the fuel pressure regulator then adjust the pot, tighten the screws but not fully tight so you can install the pressure reg to turn on the car and adjust the pot. Once set you have to remove the regulator to tighten down the pot screws
Hello I found gas leaking from the middle of fuel distributor where the gasket is. I heard that the distributor shouldn't be taken apart. I found three screws on top of the distributor and tightened them a little bit more but not so tight to the point of stripping the screws. I haven't seen if it's still leaking after I tightened the screws. The fuel distributor was leaking when it was running but it doesn't leak when it's off. Thank you
I like your explanation!
Thank you so much , and very interesting .
thanks.. Please enable automatic captions to better understand the details.
CC doesn't work - RUclips is suppose to automatically add those
Excuse me I didn't know.
Subtitles are now open. I'm sure the best tutorial video for adjusting my throttle, you made it. I am grateful.
Hi, finally got the potentiometer. Followed the procedure. Did plate adjustment with engine off, set slightly leaner than before. Set V to 0.7. Reset computer. On restarting warm the Rpm is high, 2000 or so. Not idling down.
Check the fuse(s) in the OVP Relay
Ovp fuse is good
The high idle issue is solely between Idle Speed Control Valve, Idle Speed Control Unit - Operating Voltage for those is supplied by OVP Relay
The Potentiometer you adjusted supplies feedback only to ecu for emissions control / fuel mixture - has nothing to do with idle
@@thomasbuerkle2141 then you need to check your ICV and Idle Speed Control Unit
@@thomasbuerkle2141 if both ICV and ISCU checkout ok then you have a massive vacuum leak - check brake booster and brake booster vacuum hose and all other vacuum lines connected to rear right side of upper intake manifold
Thank you for this video.
Thanks for you help before. I have a 1990 420sel but it doesn't have that spot to put the 3mm Alan key?
Should have
@@inovahightechltd will take a picture tomorrow
@@inovahightechltd do you have an email or something? I can post links to imgs here apparently. Thanks!
@@SiMan-46 peapvp@gmail.com
I'm curious if that is the issue with my 92 Mercedes 500SL you push the gas pedal and the engine dies
The inlet on the aftermarket one is already dented not round, can’t imagine that this holds the air correctly
I did the initial CO adjustment like you described but I do not have any play in the plate then. If i want to have a 1.9mm play in the plate i need to turn it 4 times counter clockwise. So i don‘t know what would be the right initial setup or if anything else is wrong.
Christian,
You may want to watch this video too. Then the hole thing may make more sense! Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/YM4VDYaKdFM/видео.html
If I'm replacing the rubber boot for the housing . Does the fuel distributor need to be re adjusted ?
Hi Richie, if you have a V8 3.8 4.2 5 or 5.6 Liter engine then you may want to watch this video here to answer your question since it really depends on what your current position for the stop and resting position is:
ruclips.net/video/G-4Is19H5TQ/видео.html
Hello thank you for the video . I have a question I ajusted my pontentimete at. 0,7V than I ajusted the air plate and potentiometre changes the value from 0,7 is it normal or I have a problem with my potentiometer . Thank you best regards
No, that’s correct
You can adjust the plate first and then adjust potentiometer and see what difference this makes
@@inovahightechltd thank you for your answer and all instructive video
Got my analog meter, expecting the potentiometer and Hirschmann clamps soon. M103 six cylinder engine. I adjusted the plate as described after fuel system rebuild. Starts and runs a little rough with some black smoke. How well should it run after this preliminary adjustment? Disconnecting the harness to existing (old) potentiometer kills the engine. Should I be connecting the hirschmann clamps and the potentiometer harness at the same time? I will have to reset after the new potentiometer arrives but I wanted to see if I could make it run with the old one for now. Thanks for this great video, big help.
Fairly smooth, you may need to lean the mixture out a bit more. Was the fuel Distributor rebuilt as well? The engine will be idling rough if the mixture is to rich or to lean - if the old potentiometer is bad then the ecu will run the engine rich as it opens the EHA valve fully - its like a limb mode - I would wait until I get the new potentiometer before making any further adjustments. The Hirschmann clamps have to be connected with the harness connector at the same time. Pull connector off, attach the clamps from the side on the pins as close as possible to the potentiometer and then push connector on and as far as it will go against the clamps to make sure you have a good contact
And the other question, have you opened the camshaft cover and checked the marks for tdc on balancer, camshaft and distributor? They all three have to line up as well
You may want to watch this video here:
ruclips.net/video/NxEYI1KIUeE/видео.html
@@inovahightechltd
I will watch it and check the other things while I wait for the new potentiometer. Thanks very much!
@@thomasbuerkle2141 black smoke is usually a indicator of to much fuel. If you haven’t rebuilt your fuel distributor then you may want to check if your fuel distributor is leaking:
1. Remove fuel pump relay and bridge contact to activate the fuel pump check your wiring diagram for ur car to see which two contacts need to be jumped.
2. Open each fuel line on the fuel injector one by one - there should be no fuel coming out except of what was in the fuel line already
3. If you got fuel flowing out of any one or two lines then your distributor needs to rebuild
4. If you got fuel flowing out of every line then your plate is adjusted to high - turn mixture screw counter clockwise until fuel flow stops on all six cylinders
5. At this point turn set screw another quarter turn counter clockwise, remove jumper, re insert fuel pump relay and start car normally - this first start will be rough to start and you may have to crank for up to 60 seconds until all air has come out of the system - once engine fires step on gas and rev up to 4000 rpm to bleed fuel system completely for about 15 seconds
After those type of fuel repairs there is a good chance too that the cylinders are flooded - once engine starts accelerate engine to 2000 rpm and if it was flooded the excess fuel will burn off within a few seconds to a couple of minutes - expect plenty of smoke - let engine reach operating temperature and let it idle for 5 to 10 minutes then shut engine off
Hi, I have replaced the potentiometer with another original bosch A0000740136 on my w201 2.3-16v (m102.983) no catalysed mercedes. The voltage between pins 1-2 would be 0,7-0,75 too? Thanks for sharing your videos.
That I am not sure. Check with the MB Service Manual Group 7.3 for your Model and Model Year!
Peter
Please can you give me the correct voltage on the plug whitch comes from ECU to POTENTIOMÈTRE thank you
4.7V to 5.2V
@@inovahightechltd 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻thank you very much
Will this also work on my Porsche 928 K-Jetronic (1978). I assume it will to get it starting? Thanks!
Yes, but I believe on the Porsche / VW the plate action is in the opposite direction from the MB system, meaning plate moves up, not down. Otherwise everything is the same
@@inovahightechltd Thanks! You make what was a mysterious fuel system simple! My problem is I messed with the 3mm Allen and that was that! So I want to bring it back to a baseline so it starts...
Craig, just follow the video(s) it takes patience but once you get the hang of it then it’s a piece of cake! Just remember, plate adjustment with Allen key only with a running fuel pump (jumper the fpr) otherwise you will loose your hair! Peter
Hi, I bought a potentiometer from the seller you have recommended. The resistance between pin 1 and 3 is ~ 1,7kOhm. I've contacted the seller an he told me that Mercedes specification of ~4.2 is irrelevant becouse the use of better materials in his product. Do you agree? Thank you.
Hi Fabi, genuinely it should not be a big problem. The quiescent current with 4.2K is 1.2 mA and with 1.7K is 2.9 mA.
The question is, can you adjust the pot to 0.75V between top and middle pin when engine is at correct idle speed?
@@inovahightechltd
Thanks for your quick response. I bought it as a reserve spare, just in case. Hope it will be ok if needed.
@@fabit.8734 Hi Fabi, I looked further into this question yesterday and investigated the input parts used in the ECU’s. I have several here for 103, 116 and 117 and all use the same input circuit for pin #17 (wiper from poti).
Those are two 1% metal film 1/8W resistor in series between 5V and Ground . Those are R300 10KOhm and R313 510KOhm. The connection between both is pin 17.
This divider network will have 4.96V on pin 17 with poti disconnected which the ecu recognizes as error and turns on engine check light.
With the Bosch Poti 4.2K the voltage on pin 17 will go from 0 to 2.5 V with 0.75 V set as idle reference and Throttle switch closed in idle position.
With the 1.7K potentiometer the voltage range will be reduced to 0V to app 2.1V which means the engine is going to run richer but may experience substantial acceleration problems in warmup phase between 45C to 75C coolant temp.
I soldered in a parallel 5.36 KOhm to R313 510 KOhm in my ECU which limits the Voltage range now on pin 17 from 0V to 1.7V which eliminates the warmup acceleration/power issue but also may limit the highest attainable rpm from 6000 to around 4500rpm over all - I need to verify this fact with possibly reduced max rpm in more detail in the next few days. We got a snowstorm here today and have 1/4” of ice below the snow.
Thanks again for pointing this out. I will make a video on this issue and would like to know if I can mention your name in the video.
Sincerely Petet
Hi i been watching your videos and think you are a genius ❤ please can you help me with some vacum lines in my that are disconected and dont have an idea on how they go please help thank you !
And does the signal to the cold start valve go through the fuel pump relay ?
Yes it does - the fuel pump relay gets the ambient / coolant temperature from B12/2 I think it is (2 pin or 4 pin)
Thanks !
Great video. I just got an 85 380sl, wouldnt idle, and now I see what a lot of the parts do. I have a car restoration channel, and perhaps you might like it.
Following some bad advice I tried to adjust my sensor plate and got it so far out of adjustment I can't even get my car to run now. Without it running I can't properly measure the duty cycle or any of the other adjustments like the potentiometer. How can I get plate gap back close enough so that I can at least get it running ?
Remove your fuel pump relay and bridge contact 7 and 8 with a jumper. This way you got fuel pressure in distributor. Don’t start the car yet. Push down on your plate until you can hear fuel flowing. Your plate should be only about 2mm below resting point with fuel pressure. If you can push the plate in below this then your to lean - if the plate has a lot of resistance then your to rich - you need 2mm play between resting and fuel flow
That’s the basic alignment
And make sure the Allen screw which is spring loaded releases the set screw below - they can get stuck when Allen key is depressed then the plate doesn’t reach the fuel distributor plunger and you get no fuel flow
Then your car should start / leave fuel pump jumped for the moment - if it doesn’t start turn 1/8 ccw to lean this way the vacuum has less resistance to move plate down - but be careful these adjustments shout only be made I. 1/16 or 1/8 increment turns in either direction
Your rpm gauge should go up to 1200 to 1600 rpm and then drop off to idle between 5 to 45 seconds depending upon ambient temperature
Hello , I'm restoring a 560SL 70,000 miles which was parked for 10 years before was parked I removed the gas tank , now the car has been painted and is almost ready to go, I connected all wires and relays, cleaned all terminals , placed new battery , changed fuel distributor seals and cleaned ,cleaned injectors , spark plugs , wires distributor cap were new before parked the car.
I crank the car and it started but just for few seconds maybe like 10-15 seconds with rough idle and smell of gas , I took the sparks out and notice that they were wet on gas . cables are OK already checked them all send spark, do you think the sparks can be damaged to be stored for that long?
also something important my car does not have installed the exhaust the whole so don't have the O2 Sensor.
could that be the reason ?
the car starts every time the same .
already cleaned the Idle valve it improved just a little .
Need advice.
thanks
Hi Alex,
This points to a failing fuel distributor. Time to get a rebuilt one. The O2 is irrelevant during start / warm up. It comes into play when the engine has warmed up and goes from open loop to closed loop control by the ECU.
@@inovahightechltd
Will try that, thanks
Today I checked the resistance on the potentiometer between 1and3 pins with no connection and shows 0
Time to replace it. Not sure if you saw all the other videos I made of testing those and all the other parts.
The potentiometer is only used for the EHA valve control to adjust mixture.
When cold, the engine runs pretty rich until at operating temperature.
The engine will start and run without the ECU and EHA valve operational - this is called the limb mode and indicated by the illuminated check engine light.
@@inovahightechltd
Hello, thanks, I have seen several of your videos , there is a parts store that has the potentiometer in $28 I don’t know if is good has good reviews.
I opened my bad potentiometer and found a 3006P-1-201 which costs $3.23 inside , seems to be fair easy to replace and resoldering in place
Hola alguien me puede decir que módulo de encendido lleva este v8?, tengo un motor sin el módulo de encendido y necesito saber que referencia o una fotografía. Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos
Hola David, ¡gracias por tu comentario! No hablo español y estoy usando el traductor de Google para escribir esta respuesta. No puedo copiar su comentario en el traductor de Google, así que le pediré a mi amigo Martin que me lo traduzca y luego responderemos a su pregunta. Pedro
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Gracias por responder, un abrazo!!!
Hola Que ano es tu carro y modelo yo tengo un 82 mercedes 380 sl y tengo unas lineas que no se donde van conectadas tu podrias compartir un retrato ? Saludos!
I changed the fuel filter and it's still the same
This will take sie some serious troubleshooting. My recommendation would be to watch all my videos as they relate to fuel issues
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