Common sense here applies - you are doing this because you are at the end of the road - the ECU is dead and you have already established it is being supplied stable voltage via good working OVP relay and have determined the ECU is the problem. Siemens brand ECU's look different inside but have the exact same problem. I dont remember what their values are, they are very rare and i have only ever seen 1.
I wish m111's ECU was operable as well. Btw i can't find the time to work on my car lately due to work but it was a beautiful thing to being able to just turn the key on and go to a long vacation road trip with no problems with it.
@@SuperBackhere i saw some m111 ecus are the all in one thing that looks like an ezl with 2 big plugs on it. I’m guessing those are bin jobs 99% of the time due to the extreme difficulty in working on these ceramic high temp boards and the way they are sealed shut.
@@herrickmky the m104.980 and ke-jet m119 ecu is totally different in construction and not covered in this video. I can confirm that the cap values are also the same though. I have done it on one of mine. I will do the job again later and make another video, if there isnt one already showing how to get it out. I can’t remember and will have to go in there again myself. On mine i also backed up the rom, it might be interesting if someone wants to have an AU version setup with no EGR if its the same hardware version ecu.
Good info for sure. I bought a W124 sedan now as well that I plan to leave original so I need to be working through it and doing all these little fixes to make sure it’s reliable. I enjoyed the scenery at the end as well.
Thanks for this excellent info. I've learned so much from this video. I'm hoping I can bring my ECU back to life but here's a beer (or alternative refreshing beverage of your choice) to say thanks for the quality content and insight.
haha, any piss taking of tim is in good spirit. He’s also not so poor these days, I saw in perth a 300sel 6.3 project car sold for a ridiculous 40 grand. He will be sitting pretty with his, no rust and completely rebuilt engine from top to bottom, suspension etc rebuilt now too. All it needs is leather and a paint job and it’ll easily clear 100 grand now.
@@MMWA-DAVE Tim no doubt will be taxing your wisdom from time to time on his 6.3, years back I had a W109 6.3, bit of a labour intensive nightmare but such work of engineering art. Keep up the good work loving the content, Am currently contemplating, a 300CE 24V would love to know your thoughts on said vehicle(s) Cheers. Glenn.
@@glennstocker487 as you’re aware im a fan of the m104.980 so you wont have any discouraging from me. Only thing i will say is make sure maintenance is kept top notch, and no expense spared especially on ignition stuff. Genuine or or bosch only. Those ignition control units (EZL) are getting few and far between and are getting eye wateringly expensive. Its near the point efi with ignition contol is becoming a viable option
I've replaced on mine ECU and ressoldered the pads of the input connector; my OVP had cracked solders and a strange oxidizing near the points inside, is ok now! Bad solderings are a common issue in old electronics, so we can imagine how more they suffer in a car's environment...
And preferably use good brand capacitors with high temperature resistance. They will be more reliable and last longer. ( Like Roederstein ( ROE ), Elna, Nichicon )
Thanks. Very interesting. I already replaced the heat sink paste behind my ignition module following your earlier video (the original was dust so thanks!) Are you suggesting it’s a good idea to change these capacitors too as preventative measure? Or would you only bother taking the ECU apart if you had symptoms? The capacitors you used are only £6 a pair on eBay…
For the hyper curious like myself- i would open it up and inspect since its so easy to do. If they are Frako brand absolutely i would replace them. If its a low milage garage queen car with ROE caps that were not externally cracked up i would probably leave them be. If they were cracked, i’s replace them. I have cap testers and testing them properly does involve desoldering them. Once you are at that stage you may aswell replace them anyway. In future i will be using Panasonic caps, they are available in this type and rated at 9000 hours at 105c. the nichicons I used are still crap compared to the panasonics. Propper caps are available from places like element14. eBay should be avoided as its full of china counterfeits.
As always very quality and detailed information. My W124 200D also has a FRAKO capacitor damaged in the glow plug relay. Of course Nichicon UPW's are a very good option but what about Solid State Capacitors? Maybe they are only good for high frequency switching aplications, I really don't know but they claim more lifespam that the normal type. And modern automotive ECUs and PC motherboards have them installed.
i bought in some panasonic electrolytics rated for 9000 hours at 105c (will never happen in our lifetimes) this is what ill be using from now on. Ebay caps i’ve found are complete sh*t and anything bought from china appears to be rejects or counterfeit. You must buy caps from reputable sources, i am now only dealing with element14. It costs more but at least i know what im getting.
where do you by chance find the wiring diagrams? I had to replace the 3 pin connector on the Idle air control valve on my 1988 230 ge, I believe it has a m102 engine in it and the previous owner noted that the backshell of the connector fell off and the wires were free dangling. IIRC its a red wire with black/red wire, red/white and a red/blue
Hello I have a 1987 300d turbo and my car has 2 of these behind the battery. I am told one is for the engine and the other is for the heat and a.c. do you know if this is correct. And do they have the same issue as what you repaired here. My om603 runs great but ac and heat are dead. No fan nothing on climate control panel works. And suggestions or advice would be very appreciated. I have been watching allot or your videos and others and have sorted out many issues from videos like yours. Your helping people keep thier cars on the road without dealership cost. 👍 great job. Thank you
Diesel w124’s are quite rare in Au, I have never seen inside the electronic diesel control unit so dont even know what it looks like. I would suggest issues with the climate control would not be the ecu anyway. If this is the push button version i’m also unfamiliar with that too unfortunately. It probably has its own separate control unit somewhere. The people on benzworld may be able to help if explain the climate control issues on there.
I have a 300SL r107 with the m103 engine. The car does not have an O2 sensor or CAT but I am getting 0mA of current in the EHA circuit with the IGN ON/ENG OFF and at all other times. The engine struggles with response until warmed after which it runs fine (but perhaps slightly down on power when giving it the beans) I assume even without lambda control I should be getting some current at the EHA to control warm up enrichment, foot down acceleration etc? I have checked the wiring from the ECU connector to the EHA and it is sound (read 18.9 ohms across the EHA from pins 10 and 12 on the connector). If I've read the service manual correctly it should be 10mA on a non CAT car. I think you mentioned that one of the failed ECUs was showing 0mA to the EHA - is there a chance that I could have bad caps in mine which are causing this too? (I will open up the ECU and check anyway). The rest of the ECU functions seem to be working (I can read diagnostic duty cycle codes from the X11, the Idle Control Valve is being controlled and the OVP is fine)
it’s entirely possible you have failed caps. The idle speed controller is a separate circuit inside the ecu and is not unusual for it to continue operating unaffected by the dead ecu section. Absolutely start with replacing the caps, and please use automotive spec reputable brand ones. Its ok to use cheap generics for the purpose of testing, if revived put in the decent ones so its a long term fix
@@MMWA-DAVE Very interesting. Parts on order, plus another ECU from a breakers for comparison/scavenging/spare etc. Hoping I can get at least one good ECU out of all that. If I can, I need to send you a beer! I've learned so much from this video.
Hello! I see that you have very advanced knowledge of KE Jetronic. Could you ask a question? My S124 had an oxygen sensor, with that I expected to have a variation of the duty cycle, but that was not the case, investigating further I discovered the adjustment resistor, which depending on the value activates or deactivates control functions. Therefore, I configured it to activate the closed loop control with the sensor and it works fine. Did I make a mistake doing it? I work with industrial control systems, and obviously I think that doing closed-loop control is ideal. Now, why did MB install an oxygen sensor and not activate its function? Well, maybe the system was tapped and they put in ECE resistors and not KAT. I put the KAT in the KE and the EZL. 🙌
im not familar with other market versions only the Australian which all had catalysts from the factory working as intended. I have seen on older cars like the W126 they made versions able to be upgraded to catalyst version later and versions never able to upgraded to catalyst, and catalyst version depending on the market region. The ones able to be upgraded required a different ECU, the catalyst and O2 sensor installed and possibly a different EZL or trimmer plug installed. The wiring was all there ready if the upgrade was wanted after delivery.
i just treated myself to a new cap tester, my china crap is going as it failed today. It was never accurate anyway and varied greatly depending on the battery voltage. Have kept all the old caps to retest for curiosity.
@@MMWA-DAVE One suggestion with the leads is to get yourself some 18 ga wire and make your own leads. I've done this and now have a set of probe leads as well as alligator clips. It works great.
@@brittanywright9646 yep have been thinking about doing this too, i can’t believe how crap these leads are. 90% insulation, 3 strands of wire and only crimped, not soldered connections. Any decent current going thru them and they just smoke or act like a fuse.
it would be so helpful to tell me the resistance value R100 K big one with green color and no color code, any idea on the real value and potentially a replacement one ?
on my spare parts ecu (560 version) R100 is blue, bands are, green, brown, brown, gold with tollerance brown. 51.5 ohms 1% tolerance. measures 51.4 on my meter. Its a large one so probably a few watts rated. This will be hard to find.
my m104 shows always 0% i cant seem to to the duty cycle with the multimeter, what could it be the fault if you don't see percentage numbers, it dosent go on close loop mode.
sounds like your ecu is not receiving power or is dead if absolutely certain there is no duty cycle reading. Usualy the no power situation is caused by failure of ovp relay which is accompanied by ABS warning light too.
Hi do you know what else can affect the signal going into the EHA besides the ECU? I'm about to recap it as I get about 99 miliamps going to the EHA and the car backfires when I accelerate
Does the car run fine with the ecu disconnected? if the KE-jet is happy it should run in fail safe mode OK. if it runs terribly theres other issues at play.
@@MMWA-DAVE thanks for the reply. I recapped the ECU anyway as I had the farko capacitors. No change, I tested wiring and most of the sensors are new. I decided to look at the fuel distributor again. I had that and the EHA rebuilt. After removing the air filter housing I manually depressed the air flap and noticed that the control plunger was sticking and not returning smoothly. I think that may be it. EHA signal is ok I think I just had a bad tester.
the are currently on back order, i’d rather know for sure they physically fit before recommending them. I just went for absolute top shelf option and ordered 100 of them. I will provide details when they come in, should be some mid august.
if its a petrol, yes, one of the ecu’s in the part 1 of the video was from a 190e. Part 2 of the video were 2 more ecus, unrelated to part 1. They also were recapped but one of those also had an exploded resistor. The 190e ones i did for preventative maintenance actually tested ok still anyway. The m102 probably doesnt get that area as hot to bake them like 6’s in the w124.
Oh, so the OVP does not protect the ECU either? Despite of lacking great n°’s of modules a failing voltage regulator can lead to catastrophically expensive damage. Not even mentioning the EZL.
yes it does protect the ecu, but the ovp function doesn’t kick in till a ridiculous 22V. 16V isnt too bad in the scheme of things, probably just the additional heat from the voltage regulator toasted the caps sufficiently to finish them off.
@@MMWA-DAVE Oh wow. I’ve seen a broken voltage regulator fry the automatic climate control module due to excessive voltage. Indeed some modules are more sensible to voltage spikes and/or sustained higher values than others.
Poor Timp.... I get the feeling he loves a bit of consensual abuse (Sorry mate) Cheap Caps are the bane of older euro cars, I should grab a D jettronic ECU and have a peek inside. Single layer pass through boards I reckon I can still remember how to repair and considering they are now 50 years old I suspect they are due a refurb..... As a Matter of interest... Solder sucker or solder Wick for the clean-up before I replace the caps?
@@Lala-shiba Absolutely is - Ones i purchased and am waiting for are 9000 hours rated at 105c which is absolutely outstanding. These Nichicons are probably only rated for 1000 hours, if they are even real which is doubtful since they came from eBay in China. They are well known for selling fakes/rejects.
@@MMWA-DAVE Hi David, My 1988 300SE has had an engine stalls past 3months while driving. I solved the causes one by one, but the ECU was the last issue. I could reach your u-tube and thought I'd fix it myself. I will buy it and let you know fake or real. From Yokohama, Japan. Sada
have not seen one yet so i cant say. The capacitors in those are ridiculously high quality and the ones in my 2 ecus are still like the day they rolled off the production line. Doesnt mean they are all like that though.
Авто/Мото
Common sense here applies - you are doing this because you are at the end of the road - the ECU is dead and you have already established it is being supplied stable voltage via good working OVP relay and have determined the ECU is the problem. Siemens brand ECU's look different inside but have the exact same problem. I dont remember what their values are, they are very rare and i have only ever seen 1.
I wish m111's ECU was operable as well.
Btw i can't find the time to work on my car lately due to work but it was a beautiful thing to being able to just turn the key on and go to a long vacation road trip with no problems with it.
@@SuperBackhere i saw some m111 ecus are the all in one thing that looks like an ezl with 2 big plugs on it. I’m guessing those are bin jobs 99% of the time due to the extreme difficulty in working on these ceramic high temp boards and the way they are sealed shut.
Hi, Have you done the same job to the 300E-24's ECU? I removed alk the screws, but the PCB refuses to come out
@@herrickmky the m104.980 and ke-jet m119 ecu is totally different in construction and not covered in this video. I can confirm that the cap values are also the same though. I have done it on one of mine. I will do the job again later and make another video, if there isnt one already showing how to get it out. I can’t remember and will have to go in there again myself. On mine i also backed up the rom, it might be interesting if someone wants to have an AU version setup with no EGR if its the same hardware version ecu.
@@MMWA-DAVEThanks! look forward to your next video
Absolute legend for making this video. Thank you again for the M103 content
Good info for sure. I bought a W124 sedan now as well that I plan to leave original so I need to be working through it and doing all these little fixes to make sure it’s reliable. I enjoyed the scenery at the end as well.
Thanks for this excellent info. I've learned so much from this video. I'm hoping I can bring my ECU back to life but here's a beer (or alternative refreshing beverage of your choice) to say thanks for the quality content and insight.
Love your work, I like many others feel for "Poor" Tim,
Cheers from the eastern states.
Glenn.
haha, any piss taking of tim is in good spirit. He’s also not so poor these days, I saw in perth a 300sel 6.3 project car sold for a ridiculous 40 grand. He will be sitting pretty with his, no rust and completely rebuilt engine from top to bottom, suspension etc rebuilt now too. All it needs is leather and a paint job and it’ll easily clear 100 grand now.
@@MMWA-DAVE Tim no doubt will be taxing your wisdom from time to time on his 6.3, years back I had a W109 6.3, bit of a labour intensive nightmare but such work of engineering art.
Keep up the good work loving the content,
Am currently contemplating, a 300CE 24V
would love to know your thoughts on said vehicle(s)
Cheers. Glenn.
@@glennstocker487 as you’re aware im a fan of the m104.980 so you wont have any discouraging from me. Only thing i will say is make sure maintenance is kept top notch, and no expense spared especially on ignition stuff. Genuine or or bosch only. Those ignition control units (EZL) are getting few and far between and are getting eye wateringly expensive. Its near the point efi with ignition contol is becoming a viable option
@@MMWA-DAVE Thank you for your quick response, good to know, I will be very selective.
Cheers, Glenn.
I've replaced on mine ECU and ressoldered the pads of the input connector; my OVP had cracked solders and a strange oxidizing near the points inside, is ok now! Bad solderings are a common issue in old electronics, so we can imagine how more they suffer in a car's environment...
And preferably use good brand capacitors with high temperature resistance. They will be more reliable and last longer. ( Like Roederstein ( ROE ), Elna, Nichicon )
Thanks. Very interesting. I already replaced the heat sink paste behind my ignition module following your earlier video (the original was dust so thanks!) Are you suggesting it’s a good idea to change these capacitors too as preventative measure? Or would you only bother taking the ECU apart if you had symptoms? The capacitors you used are only £6 a pair on eBay…
For the hyper curious like myself- i would open it up and inspect since its so easy to do. If they are Frako brand absolutely i would replace them. If its a low milage garage queen car with ROE caps that were not externally cracked up i would probably leave them be. If they were cracked, i’s replace them. I have cap testers and testing them properly does involve desoldering them. Once you are at that stage you may aswell replace them anyway. In future i will be using Panasonic caps, they are available in this type and rated at 9000 hours at 105c. the nichicons I used are still crap compared to the panasonics. Propper caps are available from places like element14. eBay should be avoided as its full of china counterfeits.
As always very quality and detailed information. My W124 200D also has a FRAKO capacitor damaged in the glow plug relay. Of course Nichicon UPW's are a very good option but what about Solid State Capacitors? Maybe they are only good for high frequency switching aplications, I really don't know but they claim more lifespam that the normal type. And modern automotive ECUs and PC motherboards have them installed.
i bought in some panasonic electrolytics rated for 9000 hours at 105c (will never happen in our lifetimes) this is what ill be using from now on. Ebay caps i’ve found are complete sh*t and anything bought from china appears to be rejects or counterfeit. You must buy caps from reputable sources, i am now only dealing with element14. It costs more but at least i know what im getting.
Tim is a patient man! LOL.
where do you by chance find the wiring diagrams? I had to replace the 3 pin connector on the Idle air control valve on my 1988 230 ge, I believe it has a m102 engine in it and the previous owner noted that the backshell of the connector fell off and the wires were free dangling. IIRC its a red wire with black/red wire, red/white and a red/blue
Do you know if these ECU's are interchangable, as long as their both from a 6cyl? Example, different part number but both are from a 6Zyl m103 engine.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My 1988 W126 300 SE has the M103 engine, but the ECU is shorter. It uses the Bosch 005 545 21 32 module. Is the issue the same?
Hello I have a 1987 300d turbo and my car has 2 of these behind the battery.
I am told one is for the engine and the other is for the heat and a.c. do you know if this is correct. And do they have the same issue as what you repaired here.
My om603 runs great but ac and heat are dead. No fan nothing on climate control panel works. And suggestions or advice would be very appreciated.
I have been watching allot or your videos and others and have sorted out many issues from videos like yours. Your helping people keep thier cars on the road without dealership cost. 👍 great job. Thank you
Diesel w124’s are quite rare in Au, I have never seen inside the electronic diesel control unit so dont even know what it looks like. I would suggest issues with the climate control would not be the ecu anyway. If this is the push button version i’m also unfamiliar with that too unfortunately. It probably has its own separate control unit somewhere. The people on benzworld may be able to help if explain the climate control issues on there.
I don't think the 300d came with a ecu they have a mechanical inline bosch pump
I have a 300SL r107 with the m103 engine. The car does not have an O2 sensor or CAT but I am getting 0mA of current in the EHA circuit with the IGN ON/ENG OFF and at all other times. The engine struggles with response until warmed after which it runs fine (but perhaps slightly down on power when giving it the beans)
I assume even without lambda control I should be getting some current at the EHA to control warm up enrichment, foot down acceleration etc? I have checked the wiring from the ECU connector to the EHA and it is sound (read 18.9 ohms across the EHA from pins 10 and 12 on the connector). If I've read the service manual correctly it should be 10mA on a non CAT car.
I think you mentioned that one of the failed ECUs was showing 0mA to the EHA - is there a chance that I could have bad caps in mine which are causing this too? (I will open up the ECU and check anyway). The rest of the ECU functions seem to be working (I can read diagnostic duty cycle codes from the X11, the Idle Control Valve is being controlled and the OVP is fine)
it’s entirely possible you have failed caps. The idle speed controller is a separate circuit inside the ecu and is not unusual for it to continue operating unaffected by the dead ecu section. Absolutely start with replacing the caps, and please use automotive spec reputable brand ones. Its ok to use cheap generics for the purpose of testing, if revived put in the decent ones so its a long term fix
@@MMWA-DAVE Hmmn... Frako cap reading dead short and a burnt 2.2ohm resistor right nearby.
@@markelane this is exactly what ive seen before too. ECU made full recovery after replacing all 3 items.
@@MMWA-DAVE Very interesting. Parts on order, plus another ECU from a breakers for comparison/scavenging/spare etc. Hoping I can get at least one good ECU out of all that. If I can, I need to send you a beer! I've learned so much from this video.
@@markelane Thanks very much 😎
Hello! I see that you have very advanced knowledge of KE Jetronic. Could you ask a question? My S124 had an oxygen sensor, with that I expected to have a variation of the duty cycle, but that was not the case, investigating further I discovered the adjustment resistor, which depending on the value activates or deactivates control functions. Therefore, I configured it to activate the closed loop control with the sensor and it works fine. Did I make a mistake doing it? I work with industrial control systems, and obviously I think that doing closed-loop control is ideal. Now, why did MB install an oxygen sensor and not activate its function? Well, maybe the system was tapped and they put in ECE resistors and not KAT. I put the KAT in the KE and the EZL. 🙌
im not familar with other market versions only the Australian which all had catalysts from the factory working as intended. I have seen on older cars like the W126 they made versions able to be upgraded to catalyst version later and versions never able to upgraded to catalyst, and catalyst version depending on the market region. The ones able to be upgraded required a different ECU, the catalyst and O2 sensor installed and possibly a different EZL or trimmer plug installed. The wiring was all there ready if the upgrade was wanted after delivery.
Ditto for cruise control amps I have repaired. They use the same FRAKO caps.
i just treated myself to a new cap tester, my china crap is going as it failed today. It was never accurate anyway and varied greatly depending on the battery voltage. Have kept all the old caps to retest for curiosity.
@@MMWA-DAVE One suggestion with the leads is to get yourself some 18 ga wire and make your own leads. I've done this and now have a set of probe leads as well as alligator clips. It works great.
@@brittanywright9646 yep have been thinking about doing this too, i can’t believe how crap these leads are. 90% insulation, 3 strands of wire and only crimped, not soldered connections. Any decent current going thru them and they just smoke or act like a fuse.
another curiosity: in portuguese, "fraco" (frako) means "weak"... 😂
it would be so helpful to tell me the resistance value R100 K big one with green color and no color code, any idea on the real value and potentially a replacement one ?
on my spare parts ecu (560 version) R100 is blue, bands are, green, brown, brown, gold with tollerance brown. 51.5 ohms 1% tolerance. measures 51.4 on my meter. Its a large one so probably a few watts rated. This will be hard to find.
my m104 shows always 0% i cant seem to to the duty cycle with the multimeter, what could it be the fault if you don't see percentage numbers, it dosent go on close loop mode.
sounds like your ecu is not receiving power or is dead if absolutely certain there is no duty cycle reading. Usualy the no power situation is caused by failure of ovp relay which is accompanied by ABS warning light too.
How do you test the caps?
Hi do you know what else can affect the signal going into the EHA besides the ECU? I'm about to recap it as I get about 99 miliamps going to the EHA and the car backfires when I accelerate
Does the car run fine with the ecu disconnected? if the KE-jet is happy it should run in fail safe mode OK. if it runs terribly theres other issues at play.
@@MMWA-DAVE thanks for the reply. I recapped the ECU anyway as I had the farko capacitors. No change, I tested wiring and most of the sensors are new. I decided to look at the fuel distributor again. I had that and the EHA rebuilt. After removing the air filter housing I manually depressed the air flap and noticed that the control plunger was sticking and not returning smoothly. I think that may be it. EHA signal is ok I think I just had a bad tester.
How do you measure the miliamps that the EHA is getting? Could you make a video?
ruclips.net/video/eE6SCylah3s/видео.html
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks- That was a great help.
Please link to the exact ones you purchased from Element14, i want to follow you exactly, and want to use the ones you used. Thanks in Advance,
the are currently on back order, i’d rather know for sure they physically fit before recommending them. I just went for absolute top shelf option and ordered 100 of them. I will provide details when they come in, should be some mid august.
Does the w201 ecu have similar caps to replace?
if its a petrol, yes, one of the ecu’s in the part 1 of the video was from a 190e. Part 2 of the video were 2 more ecus, unrelated to part 1. They also were recapped but one of those also had an exploded resistor. The 190e ones i did for preventative maintenance actually tested ok still anyway. The m102 probably doesnt get that area as hot to bake them like 6’s in the w124.
Are they interchangeable
Lütfen Türkçe paylaşımlara videonuzu açarmısınız
Oh, so the OVP does not protect the ECU either?
Despite of lacking great n°’s of modules a failing voltage regulator can lead to catastrophically expensive damage. Not even mentioning the EZL.
yes it does protect the ecu, but the ovp function doesn’t kick in till a ridiculous 22V. 16V isnt too bad in the scheme of things, probably just the additional heat from the voltage regulator toasted the caps sufficiently to finish them off.
@@MMWA-DAVE Oh wow. I’ve seen a broken voltage regulator fry the automatic climate control module due to excessive voltage.
Indeed some modules are more sensible to voltage spikes and/or sustained higher values than others.
Poor Timp.... I get the feeling he loves a bit of consensual abuse (Sorry mate)
Cheap Caps are the bane of older euro cars, I should grab a D jettronic ECU and have a peek inside.
Single layer pass through boards I reckon I can still remember how to repair and considering they are now 50 years old I suspect they are due a refurb.....
As a Matter of interest... Solder sucker or solder Wick for the clean-up before I replace the caps?
Will you kindly let me know part# of Nichicon condenser？
please wait. I am having much much much better panasonic caps delivered. Once i verify fitment i will disclose exact part numbers
I could find Panasonic 220μF/50V. I didn’t know that Japan is kingdom of capacitor.
@@Lala-shiba Absolutely is - Ones i purchased and am waiting for are 9000 hours rated at 105c which is absolutely outstanding. These Nichicons are probably only rated for 1000 hours, if they are even real which is doubtful since they came from eBay in China. They are well known for selling fakes/rejects.
@@MMWA-DAVE
Hi David, My 1988 300SE has had an engine stalls past 3months while driving. I solved the causes one by one, but the ECU was the last issue. I could reach your u-tube and thought I'd fix it myself. I will buy it and let you know fake or real. From Yokohama, Japan. Sada
Dude what State are you in?
Western Australia
my M117 has it
What symptoms has a dead/malfunctioning ecu on m104?
have not seen one yet so i cant say. The capacitors in those are ridiculously high quality and the ones in my 2 ecus are still like the day they rolled off the production line. Doesnt mean they are all like that though.