hi from malaysia....your videos are very useful for mercedes owners who likes to maintain their machines themselves....may god bless you always...and last but not least please continue your good deeds to help others....tq
All your content is also valid for w201, w126, r129 and certainly many other models ! I don’t have a w124, but love your channel for my r129 and w201...
Thanks once again dear neighbour.in my 1984 w201 there is no IAC valve like this .there is as i can see bimetal kind valve that opens and closes.it is bosch with 937 number.what about electrical idle injector.in my case it does not work and there is no voltage.the idle switch is okay .i want to mention that most common mistake is when you have idle issue you adjust mixture screw so you achive some kind of idle.you have mentioned to not touch mixture but in many cases it is already moved from factory settings
Gracias por tus amables palabras, es agradable cuando la gente aprecia cuando un hombre trata de ayudarlos. Te deseo un feliz Mercedes conduciendo con una gran sonrisa en tu rostro.
@@mercedeske. Me gustaría poder enviarte un video del mal funcionamiento del coche en caliente, valoraría mucho tu opinión ya que soy un amante de Mercedes, e comprado esta unidad que llevaba mucho tiempo sin funcionar. Mi número,34 634 487 175 WhatsApp.
Can someone explain the elec testing of the ICV. I see the figures he puts on the screen but where do I put my multi meter probes and which way around?
Unplug the connector. The blue/red connection is positive, the red/white the negative. For the rest, just follow the instructions just like on the video.
Thanks, same thing for you. If you want to leave me your phone number, leave it on my mail, schilleryu@yahoo.com I can call you. I think I saw that comment
I achieved steady idle on 1986 260se Got new fuel pump (not original) cleaned evey thing with brake flued injectors fuel regulator and the idle valve sealed was broken i replaced the distributior made sure the cables were right and all the vac cabels didnt get until started playing around with the fuel mix screw i closed all the way ccw and started to open it till i got steady idle
Thanks a lot for your video. I spent 2 days to find out if the arrow on icv valve is showing down or up. Thanks. I have 3 mercedes 190E 1,8 trying to fix.
my Idle never goes down from 1200 rpm except when you turn the AC on it drops to 1050 rpm, and when you move from P to D, the RPM drops to 750? what is the most probable problem ? a bad ECU?
Moram a ti se pohvalim, upravo sam video da sam ispunio potrebnu satnicu. Jos samo kad bih uspeo da sakupim jos 157 pretplatnika do 9 februara bilo bi fino, ako ne, nikad nije kasno!
@@mercedeske drago mi je da si to podelio sa mnom🤗 svaka cast👏 Vredan si i odgovoran i bice i to💪😊🍀 Sad kad krene skola,aktiviras neke osmake i srednjoskolce da te podrze, tu iz kraja😉
When I press with my hand the throttle just a bit away from the micro switch for ideling , the idle becomes steady , as soon the throttle touches the sensor again the idle starts beeing unsteady. Could the little part be actually broken?
If it has never been removed, don't to that! Just check the sensors - primarily the potentiometer and replace lambda if you have it. Everything else should be fine in ideal case.
Fantastic indepth video! Can't believe I didn't watch this sooner. I have 2 questions: My idle goes up on cold start and then settles down, but only goes up till 900 rpm and comes down to 600 rpm where it is steady. Potentiometer issue? Second: What should my duty cycle be, my car is a 1991 and did NOT come with an oxygen sensor from factory. Thanks a lot for your time!
Hi and thanks. Concerning the higher revs at the first start, it's normal. You mixture should be 6.65V, steady reading. At first do everything I was talking about in the video, replace the potentiometer, calibrate it and then set the mixture if it is necessary. Greetings
Hi, When I start my car from cold, the revs are circa 700rpm and never at 1200 rpm. Is this symptomatic of a faulty icv? I've cleaned the valve. Thanks
@@mercedeske injectors + wires were changed about an year ago. Fuel pump and filter was changed last month when I dropped the fuel tank to have it cleaned as there was a lot of residue in tank and constant gas smell when accelerating. Before changing the fuel pump, the car would start instantly. After pump change, it starts but it kinda struggles to start. However, it starts on first attempt so I am ok with it. My idle doesn't dip too much, it just starts at a constant level and stays there and feels normal. No stalling or anything. My main concern is overall sluggishness when accelerating. Also interestingly, my car doesn't have an O2 sensor, like there is no hole in the exhaust for it. Thank you for the reply! Means a lot!
to measure current at icv: engine on at op temp. mm set to milli amps: do I leave icv connector-plug (connected)? then touch valve pins to positive and negative? i see the specs, but confused ? if i unplug connector idle will climb...or do i measure the current at plug/connector? please advise ? thank you, for your help! still trying to figure intermittent surging idle...when i depress gas pedal idle stops surging! HELP!
😄😄😄😄😄Just pull out the connector enough for multimeter leads to touch the contacts and you can push back the connector to hold them. Then you can check the specs when the engine is on.
Tested my valve today and got the following readings: #1. 8.1 ohms #2. No voltage reading! #3.5.36 volts #4. No readings! When i unplug icv plug no change in idle, idle does not jump to 1900-2000 rpm's When i turn steering wheel idle does not fluctuate! When, i put in drive idle dropped and car stalled, so i moved idle mixture 1/4 turn and idle did not stall or bottom out! Ahgggggg....changed micro switch and tested throttle sensor...it tested good...so now stumped!! No volts- ignition on touching + and - pins And as i said, no readings in milli amps! Bad icv? Or bad plug-wiring? Ovp new oe. Mas, function as should, ezl working good, cps within specs! Stumped!! Any imput? Please advice?? Thank you!!
The only thing I can say is that if you put in D and the car stalls, it's a bad ICV. Try cleaning it in a diesel fuel for 4 hour and then spray it with carb or brake cleaner.
Hi, i was confused about how to measure current... Do, i put the + lead on + of icv valve, and - on the - pin with conector connected? Or do i measure the pins with connector off and multimeter leads on + and -? My conector wires are yellow and yellow-brown... So, i assumed yellow was + and yellow-brown -? When I turn steering wheel the rpm's go up and down but intermittently... Does the valve have to meet all the specs? My second reading was not close to desired voltage. If you could please advice on measuring current procedure? Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing your knowledge!!! I think I'm getting close to a valid diagnosis with your help!! Please advice... Cheers! Your jokes are subtle but, very funny!!
Hi, thanks. I have given the specs for the icv at the end of the video. As for my car, when you take off the connector the first one up is a negative and the positive is underneath. Close to the end of the video you have all specs for the icv. Greetings and thanks for your nice words. Happy Mercedesing 😃
I have high idle on 86 2.3. I have disconnected Idle control valve and nothing happens. 1500 RPM stays the same when ICV is connected or disconnected. I have cleaned it as well. Do I need a new ICV??
@@ClassicRich If you have no vacuum leaks you can then adjust the one. I was talking about those. You have a plastic little gear and try to screw it in in order to decrease the RPM on idle.
But can those ICVs fail? Because I've cleaned mine very thoroughly, but the rpms stay up until the engine is about 60-70C (it takes about 10 minutes) and whilst the engine is not fully warmed up and I rev the engine a bit or try changing gears at like 2-2.5k rpm they don't drop and stay that high until I release the clutch and forcefully bring them down. Or could it be that the potentiometer is at fault?
Yes but flip it upside down in a form of a letter L so that the liquid doesn't enter the mechanism. I would recommend you diesel at first(an excellent degreaser) an then carb cleaner. WD40 is a good lubricant.
my cold or morning startup wont startup high RPM like yours...and drop to 900 RPM. Instead...it idles rough for a some seconds....shaking and rpm goes up and down between 200rpm but not the fluctuating type. Also when going to the shop or coming back after 30 minutes or more. On cold start after a while before 1 minutes when engine warming, car seems running and idling perfect. Except for turning...idles drop low and stall when turning the steering all the way to the right or left. What could possibly be the problem? Changed the Caps, Rotor arm, wires cables also new plugs still same issue.
@@mercedeske the stalling when turning over the steering wheel only occurs when the AC is on, when AC is off seems to be no problem at all. My engine idles 700 perfect when AC on. But in the morning startup, the idles drop up and down dissapears when turning the AC on. Very weird, seems like a distributor body short out. Can you help me. Cant figure out the problem.
Hi I have exactly the same idle problem as the beginning of your video on my 2.0 122cv the idle oscillates between 900 and 1400rpm how did you fix it parts you changed thank you for your answer
I replaced the parts as I mentioned in the video - the breather hoses, the injectors, lambda, the pressure regulator(mine was faulty), the pump as well(leaky), the lambda and checked all the sensors you see on the thumbnail.
Hi there. My Problem is. When i start the engine. Its a 2.0 automatic, 118 HP. It goes whe cold as yours to about 1200 RPM. After always 7 seconds, the RPM falls very very fast to 750 Rpm. No as yours, they go slowly down. Mine falls very fast. Then not always but often the idle goes from 750 to 850 Rpm. Doesnt matter if the engine is cold or warm. And when i go to in D on my gearbox. The rpm falls close to 500 rpm and after 1 sec the rpm rise up to 600. Ive cleaned everything. Was checking everyrthing. Was Looking all your videos two times. I cant find the problem. Yesterday i unplugged the o2 sensor and there was no Difference. I dont understand it. Greetz from Austria.
Hello 👋🏻 Have you replaced the o2 sensor as well as the breather hoses? If you have check for vacuum leaks(the smoke test). Have you replaced the injectors and injector holders? Do you have a constant pressure or it's falling? Is your potentiometer calibrated to 0.7V? Maybe the rubber boot is cracked, that's why it's important to perform the smoke test. Did you try to connect the icv to 12V to see how it behaves? Have you replaced the fuel filter? (Each 50k km) take Knecht-Mahle Kl-19. Many questions, I know but we have to locate the problem. Hope you solve your issue.
I have changed everything i can myself. Everything ist right as in your Videos. The car has 63 000 km on it. Im fighting with this issue for 3 months now. What should Happen if you unplug The o2 sensor? Should there be a change? But normally The o2 starts working whe The engine is warm. But my idle is bad when its cold or warm. It doesnt matter. One Thing i Noticed is that i need about 15 liters/100 km. But it doesnt smell of fuel. Car drives really nice, without problems. Only bad idle. Sorry for my english if you dont unterstand something just tell me, i will try to explain it better ^^
@@Taipeh47 Die Lambdasonde betreffend- JA, dringend! Höchstens jede 70h km. Hier liegt das Problem entweder mit dem Leerlaufsteller oder mit Falschluft von irgendwo. Geht das Auto beim vollen Einschlag nach rechts oder nach links aus? Falls ja, dann ist der Leerlaufsteller zu prüfen. Falls die Reinigung nicht behilflich war, versuche noch einmal aber mit dem Ultraschallbad. Die Sonde betreffend, die muss das Steuergerät über die Luftmenge genau informieren. Die Symptome einer schlechten Sonde - das Auto ruckelt, schlechter Leerlauf, höherer Verbrauch und das Aussetzen des Motors letzt endlich. Ich würde die Sonde ersetzen, den Leerlaufsteller auch neureinigen und nach Falschluft suchen ob es welche gibt. Soviel kann ich auf Grund von allem für jetzt sagen.
Beim einlenken geht er nicht aus. Er geht nur auf ca 500 rpm und fängt sich wieder. Das gleiche beim einlegen von "D" er geht auf 500 rpm runter und fängt sich nach 1 Sekunde wieder. Nach kurzer Zeit ist ein spürbarer unrunder leerlauf zu erkennen. Zwischen 750 und 850 rpm auf "P oder "N. Ich habe heute die lamdasonde abgesteckt, den 1 poligen Stecker. Das Auto verhielt sich genau gleich. Danach hab ich noch eine Sache probiert. Und zwar hab ich den leerlauf mikroschalter nicht abgesteckt, aber den gaszug so eingestellt dass, das Rädchen keinen Kontakt hat und das er glaubt er ist im schubbetrieb und leerlauf war konstant auf 750 rpm.
I was driving home today. And i have a new big problem! I need really the car! Everything is fine. As soon i gave a little bit of gas the engine rev up to about 2000rpm and dont want go down. Ive toon the air Filter housing off and saw that the Plate was hanging. I restarted the car. Start is perfect. But as soon as I Touch the gaspedal the Plate Stuck and dont want go back in the normal position anymore. Please help
I have noth thes valve ! 380Se V8 1982.I have only 550rpm Warm Engine cold i have 850Rpm.Wate idel with warm Engine??? Wen I Take tou D Aut it wont die thats fine..May gas pedalen are abit direkly if you anderstand me hear.I want tou get it more stiff have 1cm off befor The Engine go upp in idel kan I adjust it will haier The idel tou 850..The idel are tou low only 550Rpm.Tell me how to do pleas this right!! K-Jettronic are in thes Car..
Hi there, i know this video is about idling. But my 190e petrol removes blue smoke when idling and when i accelerate i.e. from 1 - 3rd gear black smoke comes out the tailpipe and i noticed consumption (fuel) is way higher than before... Any guidance at this point will be appreciated. Cheers mate.
@@mercedeske thank you for your reply. In one of your videos you show us how to make the mixture lean, by tuning counterclock wise a little tower by the fuel distributor with a 3mm allen wrench .( correct me If I am wrong 😅 or if it's not the same thing as measuring). For oil consumption I have not noticed any difference ( normal levels all through), although in the mornings I see drips of oil on the ground during my inspections.
@@nodlabs8970 Check the mechanical part of the system - the injectors. Replace them if you haven't. Set the mixture to be fluctuating 6-7.3V. Do it on the x11 port 2 and 3.
@@mercedeske Vielen Dank. I will try this. Also if you have any video where to touch up on this please link here. I am still in the process of watching all your videos. Insightful stuff you have... I will check the injectors.
Thank You for your videos. I have a broblem with my both mercs. M102 and m103. During years someone missed up with the idle screw under the kjet. Can you tell me what's the right idle with icv and microswich (both) disconnected? I need a starting point with engine warmed up.
If you disconnect the micro switch the engine must raise rpm if the switch is good. As for these two you will have to give me the engine code, the first 6 numbers of your VIN so that Ican tell you. Mine is for example 124.023
@@mercedeske thank you for your fast answer. Yes i notice that with microswich disconnected the rpm rises,but I have to know how much should be (even with icv disconnected) so I have a starting point. I'll let you know as soon as possible the VIN of both
@@mercedeske the G wagon's (m102) vin starts with 463220 and the engine tipe is 102965. At the moment I can't check the w126's (m103) vin. Anyway,my G wagon acts like follow: when cold it starts instantly,and has high idle(around 1400rpm) until warm up, gradually decrease to 900rpm. I think it should have high idle for seconds and then decrease to normal rpm almost instantly(like m103 does) M103 runs almost perfectly but when I turn on AC idle is stable then when I stop to a traffic light idle drops and pump up immediately to normal. On m103 if i unplug the microswich rpm rises,on m102 nothing happens. I checked and microswiches are fully working. Icv fully working,no vacuum leaks. So my opinion is that the idle screw under the kjet is out of specs. That's the reason I need a rpm default starting point,with icv and microswich unplugged. My both cars run on lpg too and symptoms are the same even on lpg too that means fuel system doesn't influence the problem.
Ok so my m119 1990 was starting every time idle was good but gave throttle started to stumble ...changed eha did duty cycle and it started but sounding like very low idle give it gas no stumble ...stupid me turned car pf decided to turn c/o mix put airfilter back try start no start at all but now the air flow sticks at top ..I have no idea what I have done ..I mean sticks like try turn over can see it move but when turn of an go to airflow I push with my finger an it feels like it's catching sry I don't explain well enough
@@knick187 Ok, Knick. You will have to do what is called the initial mixture adjustment - remove on of the metal fuel lines leading to the injectors, bridge the fuel pump(contacts 1 and 2 on your MAS) and on ignition ON, engine OFF start turning the 3mm allen screw clockwise until you see fuel flowing out of the line. That moment turn the screw for half a turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE! Under these conditions the car will start. Afterwards just set the mixture on the X11 to fluctuate 6.6-7.33Vand that's it. Concerning the EHA, you will have to put the multimeter in and measure the Amperage. For your model I believe you will have to get 75mAmp on ignition ON, as you start the car the amperage will drop to 0 as the engine is at 80. The goal is to get the fluctuation between -3 and 0 mAmps. The more the amperage is in negative range, the richer the mixture and vice versa. If you get for example 8mAmps at 80 degrees then you have to remove the EHA, unscrew the protection screw and make the mixture richer by turning the 2mm allen CLOCKWISE. Always turn for 1/8th of a turn. IF you get -8mAmps then turn the screw counterclockwise. Do it bit by bit until you reach your goal. I know I wrote you a NOVEL and not a comment but what can I do - read learn and then tune your car. Fingers crossed! Your host Ivica, FyM
Knick, I can't tell what really happens and why the car won't start. Check the whole system, all the components on my thumbnail of this video. We can go through the system if you want. Tell me what happens exactly.
@@mercedeske it’s a w201 M102 1.8 :) like I said the engine struggles when cold and starts up around 450-500, then after a minute or 2 it’s at 1100, after a long drive it’s sometimes even at 1400, this is causing trouble when stopping and eating a lot of fuel
@@فايزالثمالي-س7ب I will give you a free and an honest advice. As for the automatic transmission the only thing you can do on it as a rookie is to learn when to change the oil and how to adjust the shifting(earlier or later). For everything else pay the professional because if you have seen any videos on RUclips about it, don't copy those people! The transmission weights 200 kilos just for the beginning for you to know. The transmission is no joke(especially the automatic) - the engine is nothing in comparison with the transmission. So long story short - better find a good professional mechanic for this job this is something that an ordinary rookie can NOT do watching RUclips videos only!!!
instagram.com/p/COvEYmYpxEM/ Although I prefer my fb page fix your Mercedes m.facebook.com/Fix-your-Mercedes-102009585346864/?tsid=0.6706834313084662&source=result
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Thank you for providing this information. Maybe your English isn’t perfect but you are a nice person and I appreciate everything you do.
hi from malaysia....your videos are very useful for mercedes owners who likes to maintain their machines themselves....may god bless you always...and last but not least please continue your good deeds to help others....tq
Thanks a lot 👏🏻 I really appreciate that.
You are very articulate and have made understanding this whole process very easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you for such a lovely and polite comment. Glad to hear this. Happy Mercedesing!🍀
All your content is also valid for w201, w126, r129 and certainly many other models ! I don’t have a w124, but love your channel for my r129 and w201...
Thanks a lot. Glad to hear that. It's Ke-jetronic and the working principle is the same.🍀🍀🍀👋👍😃💪
Just passing by to say I finally graduated! Now I have some more spare time to fix my Mercedes 😁
Heeeey, that's great news, congratulations👏👏👏I know the feeling. So, what did you study?😃😃😃👍👍👍
@@mercedeske thank you! I studied medicine, so I will be a doctor with the hobby of cars 😂
@@micheledirocco4994 Hehehehe, a surgeon!😉😀😃😄😁
Thank you for this, ours idled erratically until we changed the OVP and the battery.
I figured it out that it's always the best option to start with mechanics and then to do electronics.
@@mercedeske yes, at least our cars don’t have the bio degradable loom
Thanks once again dear neighbour.in my 1984 w201 there is no IAC valve like this .there is as i can see bimetal kind valve that opens and closes.it is bosch with 937 number.what about electrical idle injector.in my case it does not work and there is no voltage.the idle switch is okay .i want to mention that most common mistake is when you have idle issue you adjust mixture screw so you achive some kind of idle.you have mentioned to not touch mixture but in many cases it is already moved from factory settings
@@damiropadobarglumskiperiod505 Unfortunately yes... but that's why I'm here 😉
Hi, you are the best and trustable man. Very nice. Just continue your video. 😍👌👏👏
Hi. Thanks a lot 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Happy Mercedesing 😃
Another amazing video, well structured and very instructional, Thank you
My pleasure . Happy Mercedesing!
Don't worry about your English you are good teacher.....
Having a rough idle at the moment, hope this is the solution. Thanks !
Good luck. Fingers crossed 🤞🏻
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, te veo desde España, tengo un 300e
Gracias por tus amables palabras, es agradable cuando la gente aprecia cuando un hombre trata de ayudarlos. Te deseo un feliz Mercedes conduciendo con una gran sonrisa en tu rostro.
@@mercedeske. Me gustaría poder enviarte un video del mal funcionamiento del coche en caliente, valoraría mucho tu opinión ya que soy un amante de Mercedes, e comprado esta unidad que llevaba mucho tiempo sin funcionar. Mi número,34 634 487 175 WhatsApp.
Can someone explain the elec testing of the ICV. I see the figures he puts on the screen but where do I put my multi meter probes and which way around?
Unplug the connector. The blue/red connection is positive, the red/white the negative. For the rest, just follow the instructions just like on the video.
Good n nice explanation.... Very clear 👍👍👍
Thanks l, Happy Mercedesing 😊
Best for you my frends
Thanks, same thing for you. If you want to leave me your phone number, leave it on my mail, schilleryu@yahoo.com I can call you. I think I saw that comment
Happynew year too
I achieved steady idle on 1986 260se
Got new fuel pump (not original) cleaned evey thing with brake flued injectors fuel regulator and the idle valve sealed was broken i replaced the distributior made sure the cables were right and all the vac cabels didnt get until started playing around with the fuel mix screw i closed all the way ccw and started to open it till i got steady idle
Thanks a lot for your video. I spent 2 days to find out if the arrow on icv valve is showing down or up. Thanks.
I have 3 mercedes 190E 1,8 trying to fix.
My pleasure 😊 fingers crossed 🤞🏻
Very nice guy I liked your videos keep going
Thanks. Happy Mercedesing!
These videos are amazing!
Thanks a lot. Happy Mercedesing 😀😎
my Idle never goes down from 1200 rpm except when you turn the AC on it drops to 1050 rpm, and when you move from P to D, the RPM drops to 750? what is the most probable problem ? a bad ECU?
Did you check the tps both idle as well as wide open throttle recognition?
@@mercedeske I have the new tps on order , should reach me by today, I will check the Wide Open Throttle as well, thanks for the help
0:28 nasa omiljena,njegova devojka😊🍀
Ivice,a sto kod tebe nema snega❄⛄ kod nas se sve beelii
@@darijatomic5489 Ko ti kaze da nema!? Samo sto je padao prekjuce. ;-)
Moram a ti se pohvalim, upravo sam video da sam ispunio potrebnu satnicu. Jos samo kad bih uspeo da sakupim jos 157 pretplatnika do 9 februara bilo bi fino, ako ne, nikad nije kasno!
@@mercedeske drago mi je da si to podelio sa mnom🤗 svaka cast👏
Vredan si i odgovoran i bice i to💪😊🍀
Sad kad krene skola,aktiviras neke osmake i srednjoskolce da te podrze, tu iz kraja😉
@@darijatomic5489 A sa kim cu akone sa tobom!? Oglasio sam i na instagramu. Koga ne zanima, neka mi samo da sub i neka isključi obaveštenja.
Very good. Thank you
Thank you for your donation. Best regards and wishes and Happy Mercedesing 😊
@@mercedeske You're welkome. I have learned alot about KE-Jetronic
When I press with my hand the throttle just a bit away from the micro switch for ideling , the idle becomes steady , as soon the throttle touches the sensor again the idle starts beeing unsteady. Could the little part be actually broken?
Check it out with the buzzer.
ruclips.net/video/pz8p_eDMyjk/видео.html
@@mercedeske Thank you!
@@edytv4501 Glad to be of help.😉🙂🤠Happy Mercedesing 😃
@@mercedeske Yeah, got a Audi 80 2.0 16v but it is similar. Still have my issues.
@@edytv4501 If it's about the idle, check the TPS, clean the ICV, check the breather hoses, the coolant temperature sensor.
How do I remove the security bead to adjust the fuel mixture?
If it has never been removed, don't to that! Just check the sensors - primarily the potentiometer and replace lambda if you have it. Everything else should be fine in ideal case.
Fantastic indepth video! Can't believe I didn't watch this sooner. I have 2 questions: My idle goes up on cold start and then settles down, but only goes up till 900 rpm and comes down to 600 rpm where it is steady. Potentiometer issue? Second: What should my duty cycle be, my car is a 1991 and did NOT come with an oxygen sensor from factory. Thanks a lot for your time!
Hi and thanks. Concerning the higher revs at the first start, it's normal. You mixture should be 6.65V, steady reading. At first do everything I was talking about in the video, replace the potentiometer, calibrate it and then set the mixture if it is necessary. Greetings
@@mercedeske On it captain! Shall post results
@@shaazy Good luck!
Hi,
When I start my car from cold, the revs are circa 700rpm and never at 1200 rpm. Is this symptomatic of a faulty icv? I've cleaned the valve.
Thanks
Which car do you have?
@@mercedeske I have the same thing. My car is a 1991 w124 300E 4matic sedan.
Check the whole system, everything I have mentioned here.
@@mercedeske injectors + wires were changed about an year ago. Fuel pump and filter was changed last month when I dropped the fuel tank to have it cleaned as there was a lot of residue in tank and constant gas smell when accelerating. Before changing the fuel pump, the car would start instantly. After pump change, it starts but it kinda struggles to start. However, it starts on first attempt so I am ok with it. My idle doesn't dip too much, it just starts at a constant level and stays there and feels normal. No stalling or anything. My main concern is overall sluggishness when accelerating. Also interestingly, my car doesn't have an O2 sensor, like there is no hole in the exhaust for it. Thank you for the reply! Means a lot!
Did you check the pressures with the pressure gauge?
to measure current at icv: engine on at op temp. mm set to milli amps: do I leave icv connector-plug (connected)? then touch valve pins to positive and negative? i see the specs, but confused ? if i unplug connector idle will climb...or do i measure the current at plug/connector? please advise ? thank you, for your help! still trying to figure intermittent surging idle...when i depress gas pedal idle stops surging! HELP!
😄😄😄😄😄Just pull out the connector enough for multimeter leads to touch the contacts and you can push back the connector to hold them. Then you can check the specs when the engine is on.
@@mercedeske you are most generous with your time!!
Thank you!!
Tested my valve today and got the following readings:
#1. 8.1 ohms
#2. No voltage reading!
#3.5.36 volts
#4. No readings!
When i unplug icv plug no change in idle, idle does not jump to 1900-2000 rpm's
When i turn steering wheel idle does not fluctuate!
When, i put in drive idle dropped and car stalled, so i moved idle mixture 1/4 turn and idle did not stall or bottom out!
Ahgggggg....changed micro switch and tested throttle sensor...it tested good...so now stumped!!
No volts- ignition on touching + and - pins
And as i said, no readings in milli amps!
Bad icv? Or bad plug-wiring?
Ovp new oe.
Mas, function as should, ezl working good, cps within specs!
Stumped!!
Any imput? Please advice??
Thank you!!
The only thing I can say is that if you put in D and the car stalls, it's a bad ICV. Try cleaning it in a diesel fuel for 4 hour and then spray it with carb or brake cleaner.
Hi, i was confused about how to measure current...
Do, i put the + lead on + of icv valve, and - on the - pin with conector connected?
Or do i measure the pins with connector off and multimeter leads on + and -?
My conector wires are yellow and yellow-brown...
So, i assumed yellow was + and yellow-brown -?
When I turn steering wheel the rpm's go up and down but intermittently...
Does the valve have to meet all the specs?
My second reading was not close to desired voltage.
If you could please advice on measuring current procedure?
Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing your knowledge!!!
I think I'm getting close to a valid diagnosis with your help!!
Please advice...
Cheers! Your jokes are subtle but, very funny!!
Hi, thanks. I have given the specs for the icv at the end of the video. As for my car, when you take off the connector the first one up is a negative and the positive is underneath. Close to the end of the video you have all specs for the icv. Greetings and thanks for your nice words. Happy Mercedesing 😃
I have high idle on 86 2.3. I have disconnected Idle control valve and nothing happens.
1500 RPM stays the same when ICV is connected or disconnected. I have cleaned it as well.
Do I need a new ICV??
Is your idle control valve with 2 or 3 pins?
@@mercedeske Old style, 3 pins
@@ClassicRich If you have no vacuum leaks you can then adjust the one. I was talking about those. You have a plastic little gear and try to screw it in in order to decrease the RPM on idle.
@@mercedeske Ok I will try to adjust. Also I installed on new vacuum hoses on top. Thank you for the response!
@@ClassicRich My pleasure....
Can my old Dwell Meter used for setting the points on my air-cooled VWs work?
If you have EZL then the answer is NO!
But can those ICVs fail? Because I've cleaned mine very thoroughly, but the rpms stay up until the engine is about 60-70C (it takes about 10 minutes) and whilst the engine is not fully warmed up and I rev the engine a bit or try changing gears at like 2-2.5k rpm they don't drop and stay that high until I release the clutch and forcefully bring them down. Or could it be that the potentiometer is at fault?
If you have more than 150k kms on the tacho and you have never replaced the potentiometer it could be. Check for vacuum leaks.
can the icv be soaked with WD40? spray WD40 inside the mechanism?
Yes but flip it upside down in a form of a letter L so that the liquid doesn't enter the mechanism. I would recommend you diesel at first(an excellent degreaser) an then carb cleaner. WD40 is a good lubricant.
my cold or morning startup wont startup high RPM like yours...and drop to 900 RPM. Instead...it idles rough for a some seconds....shaking and rpm goes up and down between 200rpm but not the fluctuating type. Also when going to the shop or coming back after 30 minutes or more. On cold start after a while before 1 minutes when engine warming, car seems running and idling perfect. Except for turning...idles drop low and stall when turning the steering all the way to the right or left. What could possibly be the problem? Changed the Caps, Rotor arm, wires cables also new plugs still same issue.
@@mercedeske the stalling when turning over the steering wheel only occurs when the AC is on, when AC is off seems to be no problem at all. My engine idles 700 perfect when AC on. But in the morning startup, the idles drop up and down dissapears when turning the AC on. Very weird, seems like a distributor body short out. Can you help me. Cant figure out the problem.
@@makavelibenzze Do you have a manual or automatic?
@@mercedeske automatic 4 speed 230E
Hi I have exactly the same idle problem as the beginning of your video on my 2.0 122cv the idle oscillates between 900 and 1400rpm how did you fix it parts you changed thank you for your answer
I replaced the parts as I mentioned in the video - the breather hoses, the injectors, lambda, the pressure regulator(mine was faulty), the pump as well(leaky), the lambda and checked all the sensors you see on the thumbnail.
Hi there. My Problem is. When i start the engine. Its a 2.0 automatic, 118 HP.
It goes whe cold as yours to about 1200 RPM. After always 7 seconds, the RPM falls very very fast to 750 Rpm. No as yours, they go slowly down. Mine falls very fast. Then not always but often the idle goes from 750 to 850 Rpm. Doesnt matter if the engine is cold or warm.
And when i go to in D on my gearbox. The rpm falls close to 500 rpm and after 1 sec the rpm rise up to 600. Ive cleaned everything. Was checking everyrthing. Was Looking all your videos two times. I cant find the problem. Yesterday i unplugged the o2 sensor and there was no Difference. I dont understand it. Greetz from Austria.
Hello 👋🏻 Have you replaced the o2 sensor as well as the breather hoses? If you have check for vacuum leaks(the smoke test). Have you replaced the injectors and injector holders? Do you have a constant pressure or it's falling? Is your potentiometer calibrated to 0.7V? Maybe the rubber boot is cracked, that's why it's important to perform the smoke test. Did you try to connect the icv to 12V to see how it behaves? Have you replaced the fuel filter? (Each 50k km) take Knecht-Mahle Kl-19.
Many questions, I know but we have to locate the problem. Hope you solve your issue.
I have changed everything i can myself. Everything ist right as in your Videos. The car has 63 000 km on it. Im fighting with this issue for 3 months now.
What should Happen if you unplug The o2 sensor? Should there be a change? But normally The o2 starts working whe The engine is warm. But my idle is bad when its cold or warm. It doesnt matter. One Thing i Noticed is that i need about 15 liters/100 km. But it doesnt smell of fuel. Car drives really nice, without problems. Only bad idle. Sorry for my english if you dont unterstand something just tell me, i will try to explain it better ^^
@@Taipeh47 Die Lambdasonde betreffend- JA, dringend! Höchstens jede 70h km. Hier liegt das Problem entweder mit dem Leerlaufsteller oder mit Falschluft von irgendwo. Geht das Auto beim vollen Einschlag nach rechts oder nach links aus? Falls ja, dann ist der Leerlaufsteller zu prüfen. Falls die Reinigung nicht behilflich war, versuche noch einmal aber mit dem Ultraschallbad. Die Sonde betreffend, die muss das Steuergerät über die Luftmenge genau informieren. Die Symptome einer schlechten Sonde - das Auto ruckelt, schlechter Leerlauf, höherer Verbrauch und das Aussetzen des Motors letzt endlich. Ich würde die Sonde ersetzen, den Leerlaufsteller auch neureinigen und nach Falschluft suchen ob es welche gibt. Soviel kann ich auf Grund von allem für jetzt sagen.
Beim einlenken geht er nicht aus. Er geht nur auf ca 500 rpm und fängt sich wieder.
Das gleiche beim einlegen von "D" er geht auf 500 rpm runter und fängt sich nach 1 Sekunde wieder. Nach kurzer Zeit ist ein spürbarer unrunder leerlauf zu erkennen. Zwischen 750 und 850 rpm auf "P oder "N.
Ich habe heute die lamdasonde abgesteckt, den 1 poligen Stecker. Das Auto verhielt sich genau gleich.
Danach hab ich noch eine Sache probiert. Und zwar hab ich den leerlauf mikroschalter nicht abgesteckt, aber den gaszug so eingestellt dass, das Rädchen keinen Kontakt hat und das er glaubt er ist im schubbetrieb und leerlauf war konstant auf 750 rpm.
I was driving home today. And i have a new big problem! I need really the car!
Everything is fine. As soon i gave a little bit of gas the engine rev up to about 2000rpm and dont want go down. Ive toon the air Filter housing off and saw that the Plate was hanging. I restarted the car. Start is perfect. But as soon as I Touch the gaspedal the Plate Stuck and dont want go back in the normal position anymore. Please help
I have noth thes valve ! 380Se V8 1982.I have only 550rpm Warm Engine cold i have 850Rpm.Wate idel with warm Engine??? Wen I Take tou D Aut it wont die thats fine..May gas pedalen are abit direkly if you anderstand me hear.I want tou get it more stiff have 1cm off befor The Engine go upp in idel kan I adjust it will haier The idel tou 850..The idel are tou low only 550Rpm.Tell me how to do pleas this right!!
K-Jettronic are in thes Car..
ruclips.net/video/tb3NVRNa4e8/видео.html
Hi there, i know this video is about idling. But my 190e petrol removes blue smoke when idling and when i accelerate i.e. from 1 - 3rd gear black smoke comes out the tailpipe and i noticed consumption (fuel) is way higher than before... Any guidance at this point will be appreciated. Cheers mate.
Measure the mixture. If the mixture is not rich then it's the engine. Is there oil consumption?
@@mercedeske thank you for your reply. In one of your videos you show us how to make the mixture lean, by tuning counterclock wise a little tower by the fuel distributor with a 3mm allen wrench .( correct me If I am wrong 😅 or if it's not the same thing as measuring).
For oil consumption I have not noticed any difference ( normal levels all through), although in the mornings I see drips of oil on the ground during my inspections.
@@mercedeske is there anything I should check for in the engine Herr?
@@nodlabs8970 Check the mechanical part of the system - the injectors. Replace them if you haven't. Set the mixture to be fluctuating 6-7.3V. Do it on the x11 port 2 and 3.
@@mercedeske Vielen Dank. I will try this. Also if you have any video where to touch up on this please link here. I am still in the process of watching all your videos. Insightful stuff you have... I will check the injectors.
Thank You for your videos.
I have a broblem with my both mercs. M102 and m103. During years someone missed up with the idle screw under the kjet. Can you tell me what's the right idle with icv and microswich (both) disconnected? I need a starting point with engine warmed up.
If you disconnect the micro switch the engine must raise rpm if the switch is good. As for these two you will have to give me the engine code, the first 6 numbers of your VIN so that Ican tell you. Mine is for example 124.023
@@mercedeske thank you for your fast answer. Yes i notice that with microswich disconnected the rpm rises,but I have to know how much should be (even with icv disconnected) so I have a starting point. I'll let you know as soon as possible the VIN of both
@@mercedeske the G wagon's (m102) vin starts with 463220 and the engine tipe is 102965. At the moment I can't check the w126's (m103) vin. Anyway,my G wagon acts like follow: when cold it starts instantly,and has high idle(around 1400rpm) until warm up, gradually decrease to 900rpm. I think it should have high idle for seconds and then decrease to normal rpm almost instantly(like m103 does)
M103 runs almost perfectly but when I turn on AC idle is stable then when I stop to a traffic light idle drops and pump up immediately to normal. On m103 if i unplug the microswich rpm rises,on m102 nothing happens. I checked and microswiches are fully working. Icv fully working,no vacuum leaks. So my opinion is that the idle screw under the kjet is out of specs. That's the reason I need a rpm default starting point,with icv and microswich unplugged. My both cars run on lpg too and symptoms are the same even on lpg too that means fuel system doesn't influence the problem.
Thanks..
Grazie.
Prego 😀
Ok so my m119 1990 was starting every time idle was good but gave throttle started to stumble ...changed eha did duty cycle and it started but sounding like very low idle give it gas no stumble ...stupid me turned car pf decided to turn c/o mix put airfilter back try start no start at all but now the air flow sticks at top ..I have no idea what I have done ..I mean sticks like try turn over can see it move but when turn of an go to airflow I push with my finger an it feels like it's catching sry I don't explain well enough
Did you have a detonation, like a small "explosion"?
@@mercedeske yes
@@knick187 Ok, Knick. You will have to do what is called the initial mixture adjustment - remove on of the metal fuel lines leading to the injectors, bridge the fuel pump(contacts 1 and 2 on your MAS) and on ignition ON, engine OFF start turning the 3mm allen screw clockwise until you see fuel flowing out of the line. That moment turn the screw for half a turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE! Under these conditions the car will start. Afterwards just set the mixture on the X11 to fluctuate 6.6-7.33Vand that's it. Concerning the EHA, you will have to put the multimeter in and measure the Amperage. For your model I believe you will have to get 75mAmp on ignition ON, as you start the car the amperage will drop to 0 as the engine is at 80. The goal is to get the fluctuation between -3 and 0 mAmps. The more the amperage is in negative range, the richer the mixture and vice versa. If you get for example 8mAmps at 80 degrees then you have to remove the EHA, unscrew the protection screw and make the mixture richer by turning the 2mm allen CLOCKWISE. Always turn for 1/8th of a turn. IF you get -8mAmps then turn the screw counterclockwise. Do it bit by bit until you reach your goal. I know I wrote you a NOVEL and not a comment but what can I do - read learn and then tune your car. Fingers crossed! Your host Ivica, FyM
@mercedeske thank you I will do an reply back
@@mercedeske hi on x11 what points are the testing ones
Excuse me for the dumb question. If fuel pressure Regulator is bad, idle is also compromised?
Idle is not so bad but throttle response is not good.
Grazie 👍
Prego 😃
0:24 volim zvuk motora👌
Jel si ti prva?👍
@@mercedeske jos pitas,sledi neka nagrada prvom👍🏼u 2021. na ovom kanalu😉
@@darijatomic5489 Za poecetak😘👄💋, a kada odradim, dobices prva solju za kafu sa mojim logom!
@@mercedeske ako cemo iskreno🙄 zasluzeno🤗, bas sam skromna😁😂 odlicna vest,samo napred👍🏼👌🍀👏
👍
Добрый день... Вы объяснили колебания, как это проверить и где... Надо было показать
Your videos. Good
Thanks 😊
I'm trying to figure out how to send a video to your Facebook
Thanks!
My pleasure and thank you as well for a donation. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 😊 😃
Knick, I can't tell what really happens and why the car won't start. Check the whole system, all the components on my thumbnail of this video. We can go through the system if you want. Tell me what happens exactly.
@@mercedeske can the eha be short circuit while testing if multimeter prongs touch ?
@@knick187 Yes, be careful with the clip leads. The whole chassis is ground.
@@mercedeske how would I check if short circuit
Je suis français donc nul en anglais et RUclips ne veut pas mettre les sous titres en français…
All my videos have subtitle option.
@@mercedeske en effet, mais pas en Français malheureusement 😔 je galère du coup.
Hello sir, my car starts up with 500 rpm then slowly goes up to 1200-1300
Hello 👋🏻 Which Mercedes and engine you have?
@@mercedeske it’s a w201 M102 1.8 :) like I said the engine struggles when cold and starts up around 450-500, then after a minute or 2 it’s at 1100, after a long drive it’s sometimes even at 1400, this is causing trouble when stopping and eating a lot of fuel
@@deltaxautomotive Try checking the coolant temperature sensor.
@@mercedeske well, the meter on the dash is glitching, but I don’t think dash meter and ecu is connected, is it the 3-pin sensor on the water pump?
No, they are not. Also check for vacuum leaks.
1988 230 CE C124. Non-catalytic converter. Idle is steady, though.
Do you have an ICV with 2 pins or with 3?
3 pins
tested with battery and heard clicking noise on icv
@@ronanconnolly2196 But, then it turns out to be that you have those spikes on it and you can manually adjust the idle revs.
Would the cold starter be anything yo do with it?
0:18 Ivica gubi kosu🔇😁😅
A šta drugo ima kod tebe?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@mercedeske
Moj zivot je filmska prica ne staje to u jednu recenicu😂😅 to je roman u nastavcima😎🌞
@@darijatomic5489 Takodje
@@mercedeske ma da nam se nisi zaljubio 👀👂
@@darijatomic5489 Hehehehehe, jesam u mog Merdzana i to jos poodavno, 1995. godine
Hello good morning i wish videos for w126560sel
Hello. What do you actually need?
About gearbox hit and Regulator
@@فايزالثمالي-س7ب I will give you a free and an honest advice. As for the automatic transmission the only thing you can do on it as a rookie is to learn when to change the oil and how to adjust the shifting(earlier or later). For everything else pay the professional because if you have seen any videos on RUclips about it, don't copy those people! The transmission weights 200 kilos just for the beginning for you to know. The transmission is no joke(especially the automatic) - the engine is nothing in comparison with the transmission. So long story short - better find a good professional mechanic for this job this is something that an ordinary rookie can NOT do watching RUclips videos only!!!
Hello what’s your Instagram I would love to follow you there too
instagram.com/p/COvEYmYpxEM/
Although I prefer my fb page fix your Mercedes
m.facebook.com/Fix-your-Mercedes-102009585346864/?tsid=0.6706834313084662&source=result