I have owned and used this HF cabinet for over 15 years. After caulking the seams, adding improved seals to the door and installing an internal light, it has served me very well. I have hundreds of hours with various abrasives. It is a good value.
You never touch metal with your skin after you blast it. The oil and moisture on your hands will make it rust. If you touch it wipe it down with mek or thinner.
Good video, good delivery. you have a good voice, your up and down tones make it good listening and not boring. No ëhhh, aaannnnddds, mis pronounced words. which means your are thinking what to say. thus no control in what you saying . You Know what to say and it rolls off as a natural, knowledgeable person giving instructions. This is also the military instructor's delivery. Great Job! . Yes the sand blaster is worth the $100.00. Expect to continue see you in more instructive videos.
100% worth it. I've been using vinegar to remove rust from parts and although it does a good job, it develops surface rust within seconds of reacting with the air and can lead to further cleaning with a wire brush.
after you remove rust from something in that fashion, just take some used motor oil (or new if rich 8=O) and dip a rag in it and cover the object with light layer of oil. if you don't want to use that u can also use vegetable oil, mineral oil, or paint a primer on it.
LuKe g I'm not sure if you know this already but in case you don't, use baking soda with a bit of water to neutralize the metal. Vinegar is acidic and will continue to eat the metal if not neutralized with a base (baking soda ). After the process you can use WD40 or other types of oils like the guy above me mentioned to protect the metal if it's going to be bare. I would suggest using some type of better protective coating so prevent rust to appear again.
I had never thought of that but it makes complete sense and sounds easy! My circumstance was refinishing old tools and after going through the process I explained above, I ended up washing the parts with dish soap and water and it turned out fine but as you could imagine, was quite the endeavour. I'll keep that in mind for next time.
LuKe g use WD-40 and an abrasive scotch-brite pad. If you're prepping the metal for paint, wipe it down with lacquer thinner and remove any oily residue and primer/paint immediately.
I always used a flour sifter screen under the dump hopper over a bucket to separate the media from the removed rust when emptying the sand blaster. Then just dump the rust in the trash. You could also use a window screen for separating. Also ran strips of tape over the back side of the window, cut them about 1 inch X 3 inch. Peel one, when you can't see through it any longer, peel off a new piece of tape. It will last longer than replacing the whole plastic protector each time.
Great video! THANK YOU! for not making us listen to the blaster noise during the demonstration! You have no idea how that can ruin an instructional vid. So, THANK YOU! THANK YOU! 🤗☺🧡
Glass bead is typically more expensive but is more traditionally used in cabinets as it's a much more durable media. It will last much longer than crushed and it will leave you a smoother finish as well, assuming you use a more fine grit. Glass bead will also leave a brighter finish if you ever want to blast aluminum and have that brighter cleaner look instead of painting it. Putting a clear on aluminum is a nice option then. And to keep your media clean, get a piece of metal cut to size to fit inside your cabinet with holes small enough to allow the media to fall but also catch most of the debris. At our shop we have one in every cabinet we use.
Wow, very thorough. Are you a teacher? Thanks for simplifying this for me. Can you advise how this might work with an even smaller compressor? I wonder what media would be used if I wanted to clean old metal Tonka trucks and old hunting knives as well? Well worth the money, I would say for this compressor. Thanks much!
Thats a guy that likes clean parts in an efficient manner. As an FYI, I just tried to sand blast without an enclosure, and Im completely covered in media and basically wasted $40 since I couldnt contain all the grit flying around.
I bought a cheap sandblasting booth off of eBay a couple years ago. If you have any leaks on the seams get a can of bed liner and spray the seams to seal them up. Also for media for general use just buy a bag of play sand and sift it through a screen mesh to get out the bigger rocks.
I got lucky and picked up a used one in excellent condition for $40.00! The gloves were shot but, the fellow through in a new pair with the deal! I got the whole thing including the manual! Now, all I have to do is get it set up in my new Smithy where I will be making knives and doing a bit of Blacksmithing! Thanks for the video!
I have a vise from the 1950’s soaking in vinegar in the garage as I felt like wire wheels just weren’t getting the job done. It looked pretty clean but if I touched it with sandpaper I’d come up with red rust. Think I’m sold one one of these. Thanks!
FYI saw on TV once where very old hardcover book covers were being sandblasted with Soda and they said it only removed the grunge and did not effect the ink on the cover. In other words,make old hardcover books look like new with soda blasting.
I bought mine off Craigslist for 30$. Even at 100$ that's well worth it. I did 4 sets of control arms and trailing arms then had it powder coated. I sold it when I moved for 150$ and got a ton of use.
I've been wanting to get an inexpensive sandblasting cabinet for a while, and this is the one. My local HF doesn't have it in stock now, but I'm hoping they will during their Easter sale. Current regular price is $115, so with 25% couple I should be able to get it for about $86 plus tax. Thanks for taking time to make the vid.
i just put 20 dollar led trouble light inside it already had the magnet to mount also buy a whip just for it and screw it directly into the nozel bypassing the quick connect gives you more room to work and better blast angles i plan on putting a 110v draft inducer off a gas furnace on the back vent to keep dust down
an compressed air air dryer is a must in humid environments. not a harbor freight brand. bought 2 and they both were defective. my harbor freight blast cabinet is great though. if the 80 grit glass beads from harborfreight is too abrasive, Grainger or eBAY has finer grit or . i use #75 medium fine glass beads or medium fine glass shards. works great for cleaning and shining metals.
Nice. I've always wondered how Harbor Freight sandblasters would work. Definitely will be getting me one now. I can't afford the expensive ones so this will be perfect. They just opened a Harbor Freight here where I live and already bought some good tools. This is next on the list. Thanks for making this video.
Cool I'm an hour away. I'm considering cross border shopping but how do you deal with the taxes and duties? An added 15% + around 8% pretty much screws up all the deals of shopping cross border :|
Really? I still find that it is cheaper and less of a hassle to go across the border to buy stuff. More often than not, even when taking into account the exchange rate and duties, its still cheaper to buy in the US.
I guess I'm not looking at the same things. I gotta admit I was looking more at car parts recently, but not general tools like what harbor freight has.
I have been comparing bench top sandblasters. I was curious about the Harbor Freight blaster. Thank you for doing a demonstration with yours. I have decided to get one from Harbor Freight next weekend. Thanks!
Just go on Amazon and order the typical $10 led off road rectangular lights and install inside. That's what I did with my large cabinet and wired it to the switch on the side. Also for best use although more expensive, ditch the siphon and run a pressure pot into it. Uses less air and is more efficient. Just make a small hole to feed the hose from the pot in.
wow $100 for sand blaster...bloody here in london england virtually impossible to find something for this price...but must admit brilliant video...you should be on tv my brother..
When you start to clean that glass after removing the plastic film, the firs thing you should do is LIGHTLY wipe off the dust, especially if the abrasive is strong. That extra swiping (winced when I saw that) will just score up the unprotected glass. I used to have to do that for my safely glasses all the time. Then use a clean cloth, or clean part of the cloth, to do the actual cleaning. save your primary glass from the abrasive.
Few questions: What size compressor are you using to power your media gun? How much were the bags of glass media? How much was the plastic film that goes over the glass? Tip: you may want to invest in a dust separator to make your shop vac into a two stage system so the shop vac filter doesn't get clogged up with all the fine media dust. Never mind. I finally expended the description field and found the info :p I only left this because the tip still stands and RUclipsrs love comments ;)
Great vid. Very clear and informative. The vacuum should be strong enough to create 'negative pressure' inside the cabinet so when you are using the blaster the compressed air you are introducing does not force fine media out if the inlet for the cabinet. Also some strips of clingfilm inside the glass that you can peel off as it gets opaque
Just another tip for ppl applying new film, DO NOT do it like this fella did. Prep, just like in the video by cleaning, then, rather than exposing all of the adhesive, only remove a corner piece of the tape. Line up the plastic protector and apply that corner, then at the same time remove the tape from underneath, pull and apply adhesive to window like that
You can use a hair dryer to snugly stick the plastic film onto the glass. Clean the glass-> hot air to heat the glass surface -> remove the protection of the film -> blow the film from its back -> stick -> done.
Canadian vs us money is confusing . But I'd say it's for sure worth it . A hundred bucks ? That's a great deal . It may not do the works of a 2000 dollar one but you don't need that for the type of work you do . That's plenty . Good video man !
Good video but few things you are not correct about... Glass by far is not the most abrasive material i have used glass on aluminum several times. Black beauty coal slag or and other sand abrasive is way more coarse. Second you should never touch the bare metal with oily hands after bladting all your doing is putting oils into the material.third you never use you hands to hold what your blasting very rookie mistake it may not be a big deal with the small amount of cfm your pushing on your setup but get behing 190 to 400 cfm and blast into your gloves it is just good practice.
Next time you remove any sort of adhesive, use acetone, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, or turpentine. Just make sure you don't use it on plastics. It's okay to use on rubber, metal, glass, etc and it's pretty cheap. Also, you might want to squeegee the adhesives when you put on that plastic cover so you know you have a positive seal. That goes with anything.
I have owned and used this HF cabinet for over 15 years. After caulking the seams, adding improved seals to the door and installing an internal light, it has served me very well. I have hundreds of hours with various abrasives. It is a good value.
Just some advice, use pliers to handle little objects like that so the abrasive doesn't eat through your gloves over time.
If its small stuff, I do do that. Good tip that I forgot to mention 👍
milanmastracci if the gloves get a hole in it is it replaceable
yes there are replacement gloves, but I dont know about the availability for this model
Is the gun part of the cabinet, if not where did you get the gun?
Put welding gloves over them. Done.
As a professional media blaster, I'd recommend a finer sand for removing rust. It's better to take a couple seconds longer than to scrap a part
OtterConnor would you mind linking the recommended fine sand? Thanks!
I never thought my glass media was more aggressive than the aluminum oxide I had. Interesting take.
For a 100 bucks?, it totally worth it.
Bro great video
Thought I was getting just a review, got a lot more info than just that. Keep it up
Absolutly worth it. Got one myself, makes things so much easier, so much time and frustration saved by getting a sandblaster
This is the kind of details that out like when I watch a video great job and I appreciate it thank you and yes it’s worth $100
You never touch metal with your skin after you blast it. The oil and moisture on your hands will make it rust. If you touch it wipe it down with mek or thinner.
Paul Duncan That’s true but wipe the part with what?
@@aldocraycray acetone, alchohol, or mineral spirits would prob do the trick
“Piss hands” is what we call it
Well, I know what I’m getting on my next trip to Harbor Freight!
Good video, good delivery. you have a good voice, your up and down tones make it good listening and not boring. No ëhhh, aaannnnddds, mis pronounced words. which means your are thinking what to say. thus no control in what you saying . You Know what to say and it rolls off as a natural, knowledgeable person giving instructions. This is also the military instructor's delivery. Great Job! . Yes the sand blaster is worth the $100.00. Expect to continue see you in more instructive videos.
Well worth $100. Great video. Nominated for Sand Blaster Salesman of The Year Award
100% worth it. I've been using vinegar to remove rust from parts and although it does a good job, it develops surface rust within seconds of reacting with the air and can lead to further cleaning with a wire brush.
after you remove rust from something in that fashion, just take some used motor oil (or new if rich 8=O) and dip a rag in it and cover the object with light layer of oil. if you don't want to use that u can also use vegetable oil, mineral oil, or paint a primer on it.
Yeah I learned that the hard way when I didn't have any oil on hand... Still think the sand blasting is a much better option.
LuKe g I'm not sure if you know this already but in case you don't, use baking soda with a bit of water to neutralize the metal. Vinegar is acidic and will continue to eat the metal if not neutralized with a base (baking soda ). After the process you can use WD40 or other types of oils like the guy above me mentioned to protect the metal if it's going to be bare. I would suggest using some type of better protective coating so prevent rust to appear again.
I had never thought of that but it makes complete sense and sounds easy! My circumstance was refinishing old tools and after going through the process I explained above, I ended up washing the parts with dish soap and water and it turned out fine but as you could imagine, was quite the endeavour. I'll keep that in mind for next time.
LuKe g use WD-40 and an abrasive scotch-brite pad. If you're prepping the metal for paint, wipe it down with lacquer thinner and remove any oily residue and primer/paint immediately.
Hey kid..... you're video is Excellent. Thank you! Awesome.
Thanks Lewis :)
Your
I always used a flour sifter screen under the dump hopper over a bucket to separate the media from the removed rust when emptying the sand blaster. Then just dump the rust in the trash. You could also use a window screen for separating. Also ran strips of tape over the back side of the window, cut them about 1 inch X 3 inch. Peel one, when you can't see through it any longer, peel off a new piece of tape. It will last longer than replacing the whole plastic protector each time.
I build one by myself. It is a tool i never ever wanna miss again.
Great video! THANK YOU! for not making us listen to the blaster noise during the demonstration! You have no idea how that can ruin an instructional vid. So, THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
🤗☺🧡
Glass bead is typically more expensive but is more traditionally used in cabinets as it's a much more durable media. It will last much longer than crushed and it will leave you a smoother finish as well, assuming you use a more fine grit. Glass bead will also leave a brighter finish if you ever want to blast aluminum and have that brighter cleaner look instead of painting it. Putting a clear on aluminum is a nice option then. And to keep your media clean, get a piece of metal cut to size to fit inside your cabinet with holes small enough to allow the media to fall but also catch most of the debris. At our shop we have one in every cabinet we use.
That missing screw on the right glove bezel is all im thinking about..great video and yes its definitely worth 100.00
Very professional video on how to use a sand blaster machine, liked it a lot..
Good Video. Very Comprehensive and detailed. Yes, worth $100.
Wow, very thorough. Are you a teacher? Thanks for simplifying this for me. Can you advise how this might work with an even smaller compressor? I wonder what media would be used if I wanted to clean old metal Tonka trucks and old hunting knives as well? Well worth the money, I would say for this compressor. Thanks much!
Thats a guy that likes clean parts in an efficient manner.
As an FYI, I just tried to sand blast without an enclosure, and Im completely covered in media and basically wasted $40 since I couldnt contain all the grit flying around.
Just purchased this. I’m getting great results also.
Wow! This video was very well-made. Very clear instructions. Thanks for sharing!
I bought a cheap sandblasting booth off of eBay a couple years ago. If you have any leaks on the seams get a can of bed liner and spray the seams to seal them up. Also for media for general use just buy a bag of play sand and sift it through a screen mesh to get out the bigger rocks.
Only $100?? That is totally worth it man. I'm buying one.
I got lucky and picked up a used one in excellent condition for $40.00! The gloves were shot but, the fellow through in a new pair with the deal! I got the whole thing including the manual! Now, all I have to do is get it set up in my new Smithy where I will be making knives and doing a bit of Blacksmithing!
Thanks for the video!
Perfect box mate ,Australia is watching
Really great video. I have been wondering about the Harbor Freight Sandblaster, very cool Thanks!
I stuffed a copper kitchen scrubby in the vacuum hole, It helps keep the media in, Its not perfect but it helps.
I have a vise from the 1950’s soaking in vinegar in the garage as I felt like wire wheels just weren’t getting the job done. It looked pretty clean but if I touched it with sandpaper I’d come up with red rust. Think I’m sold one one of these. Thanks!
FYI saw on TV once where very old hardcover book covers were being sandblasted with Soda and they said it only removed the grunge and did not effect the ink on the cover. In other words,make old hardcover books look like new with soda blasting.
I bought mine off Craigslist for 30$. Even at 100$ that's well worth it. I did 4 sets of control arms and trailing arms then had it powder coated.
I sold it when I moved for 150$ and got a ton of use.
the glass media is a great tip, thanks.
youforgit to mention the amount of cfm you need from the compressor to run the sandblaster , if you work on large object youre using a lot of air
Now I want one.
satisfying asf
Lave en kniv
Totally worth it,
Great video!
You should flip the grate over so the corner hole is next to the air hose and you can have the sand hose next to your air hose going into the gun.
Harbor freight should pay u bro very helpful video 🙏🏽
Definitely worth it. Especially if you live in Canada and you care about preventing rust.
Fantastic review. Well narrated and explained. Keep it up.
I've been wanting to get an inexpensive sandblasting cabinet for a while, and this is the one. My local HF doesn't have it in stock now, but I'm hoping they will during their Easter sale. Current regular price is $115, so with 25% couple I should be able to get it for about $86 plus tax. Thanks for taking time to make the vid.
Great video buddy. It helped me choose the right one! Thank you
Worth more than the price of it, I a going pick one up tomorrow, thanks for the video, good job.
Very professional video. Thank you.
i just put 20 dollar led trouble light inside it already had the magnet to mount also buy a whip just for it and screw it directly into the nozel bypassing the quick connect gives you more room to work and better blast angles i plan on putting a 110v draft inducer off a gas furnace on the back vent to keep dust down
an compressed air air dryer is a must in humid environments. not a harbor freight brand. bought 2 and they both were defective. my harbor freight blast cabinet is great though. if the 80 grit glass beads from harborfreight is too abrasive, Grainger or eBAY has finer grit or . i use #75 medium fine glass beads or medium fine glass shards. works great for cleaning and shining metals.
Nice. I've always wondered how Harbor Freight sandblasters would work. Definitely will be getting me one now. I can't afford the expensive ones so this will be perfect. They just opened a Harbor Freight here where I live and already bought some good tools. This is next on the list. Thanks for making this video.
You picked up from Harbor Freight? Aren't you in Canada?
He's in ontario so it's very close to na.
Maybe he's near the border and went to america.
Yeah I picked it up. I'm about 20 minutes from the US/NY Border
Cool I'm an hour away. I'm considering cross border shopping but how do you deal with the taxes and duties? An added 15% + around 8% pretty much screws up all the deals of shopping cross border :|
Really? I still find that it is cheaper and less of a hassle to go across the border to buy stuff. More often than not, even when taking into account the exchange rate and duties, its still cheaper to buy in the US.
I guess I'm not looking at the same things. I gotta admit I was looking more at car parts recently, but not general tools like what harbor freight has.
Great video and review. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the feedback
wow, that was a really thorough video. Well done.
Great recommendation of chassis saver, I've been researching a lot of products and haven't heard of this one yet! I'll be testing it out for sure
I have been comparing bench top sandblasters. I was curious about the Harbor Freight blaster. Thank you for doing a demonstration with yours. I have decided to get one from Harbor Freight next weekend. Thanks!
Good one bud. Very informative .
I never use one but I was curious to watch a video and see how works very easy . I will buy one to use in my shop thanks for explain step by step
Its amazing that tiny grains of rock being propelled at an object gets rid of the rest of the tiny grains of dirt
Very useful video, thank you, I have one which I have not used yet.But will do very soon.
Judging by the efficiency and quality of the results, totally worth it.
I'd have to agree :) Well spent 100 bucks
Just go on Amazon and order the typical $10 led off road rectangular lights and install inside. That's what I did with my large cabinet and wired it to the switch on the side. Also for best use although more expensive, ditch the siphon and run a pressure pot into it. Uses less air and is more efficient. Just make a small hole to feed the hose from the pot in.
use transparent tape inside of glass when one part gets foggy , take one piece of tape apart by this you can get more out of glass .
ive even built a big wooden box n just bought the blasting gun by itself works killer
wow $100 for sand blaster...bloody here in london england virtually impossible to find something for this price...but must admit brilliant video...you should be on tv my brother..
using glass is also good for electic items for example i use to glass blast rectifers from alternators.
That is ultra-worth it! hope I can find one of these sandblaster here in Italy
Fingers crossed :)
really nice video Milan well done
When you start to clean that glass after removing the plastic film, the firs thing you should do is LIGHTLY wipe off the dust, especially if the abrasive is strong. That extra swiping (winced when I saw that) will just score up the unprotected glass. I used to have to do that for my safely glasses all the time. Then use a clean cloth, or clean part of the cloth, to do the actual cleaning. save your primary glass from the abrasive.
Few questions: What size compressor are you using to power your media gun? How much were the bags of glass media? How much was the plastic film that goes over the glass? Tip: you may want to invest in a dust separator to make your shop vac into a two stage system so the shop vac filter doesn't get clogged up with all the fine media dust. Never mind. I finally expended the description field and found the info :p I only left this because the tip still stands and RUclipsrs love comments ;)
Well worth the $$, I've had on for many years, also another tip...blast your aluminum parts for a neat satin finish.
Bench vise and a $2 wire brush attachment for my drill works just as good. Larger items, DeWalt angle grinder with wire brush
Great vid Milan, I enjoyed it. Great little sand blaster 😉😉😉 thanks.
Glad to hear it :) It is a good addition to my garage!!
Great job. Very thorough.
Great vid. Very clear and informative.
The vacuum should be strong enough to create 'negative pressure' inside the cabinet so when you are using the blaster the compressed air you are introducing does not force fine media out if the inlet for the cabinet.
Also some strips of clingfilm inside the glass that you can peel off as it gets opaque
Great video man, very thorough!
I use magnetic LED lights inside my cabinet. Great vid!
Definitely worth it!
Just another tip for ppl applying new film, DO NOT do it like this fella did. Prep, just like in the video by cleaning, then, rather than exposing all of the adhesive, only remove a corner piece of the tape. Line up the plastic protector and apply that corner, then at the same time remove the tape from underneath, pull and apply adhesive to window like that
What kind of air compressor do I need to do sandblasting? I’m looking for a cheaper one but does the job.
Good video and advice. Worth the $100 for sure. One thought: dry air is critical coming from your Compressor. Thanks for posting your work.
Excellent video, well presented and explained.
Great review and tips! Will it be good for old coleman stoves? I mean for stripping the old paint and rust that is.
100% worth the $100
You can use a hair dryer to snugly stick the plastic film onto the glass. Clean the glass-> hot air to heat the glass surface -> remove the protection of the film -> blow the film from its back -> stick -> done.
Have the same sand blaster and It works great just a bit small for bulky objects. Overall a great deal for the money though!!
Couldn't agree with you more :)
Thank you for another great video!!
Great Video. Taught me a few things for sure.
Canadian vs us money is confusing . But I'd say it's for sure worth it . A hundred bucks ? That's a great deal . It may not do the works of a 2000 dollar one but you don't need that for the type of work you do . That's plenty . Good video man !
I don't know where he got $100, unless he used some sort of promo. It's $119 USD so it's around $150 CAD.
still worth it IMO if you like working on your cars and live in Canada
You know what is confusing? Going on vacation to Hungary where 309 Forints is 1 euro.
Great video! awesome for 100 dollars!
you could use ducttape around the edges to of clear plastic to prevent glass damage it's impervious to sandblast media
Good video man!
What compressor and what psi?
yes sir. worth every penny. how could you even doubt that?
seems pretty worth it to me, especially for something to have just in your garage at home.
Harbor freight sells crushed walnut that works great too instead of using glass or sand.
Good vid!
Good video but few things you are not correct about... Glass by far is not the most abrasive material i have used glass on aluminum several times. Black beauty coal slag or and other sand abrasive is way more coarse. Second you should never touch the bare metal with oily hands after bladting all your doing is putting oils into the material.third you never use you hands to hold what your blasting very rookie mistake it may not be a big deal with the small amount of cfm your pushing on your setup but get behing 190 to 400 cfm and blast into your gloves it is just good practice.
Great Product for a $100....... I'm going to purchase one myself. Where do you purchase the plastic film replacement?
nice video...very good explanation and video editing
Next time you remove any sort of adhesive, use acetone, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, or turpentine. Just make sure you don't use it on plastics. It's okay to use on rubber, metal, glass, etc and it's pretty cheap. Also, you might want to squeegee the adhesives when you put on that plastic cover so you know you have a positive seal. That goes with anything.
Of course, tested one with almost the same price, it works just like that one.