Ok, so I did a number of upgrades to my own cabinet. Including a modified pickup tube and I made the air hose larger. Even after a 3/8 adapter, larger air hose, bigger pickup tube and hose, and all of my other modifications, the cabinet still worked OK. After watching your video, I went to the shop and upgraded the air fitting to the gun itself. I used a 1/2" barb for the air line and then a reducer to the 1/4" threads for the gun. I hollowed out the brass reducer to a 23/64" orifice. I tested the system after I got it all hooked back up. You are right !!! All of my other mods were marginal. The bigger orifice to the gun made ALL the difference in the world ! This thing is a BEAST now !!!!
@@charleshealy341 I am using glass beads. I am seeing a decrease in performance lately, so I need to change out my media. I think I'm going with Aluminum Oxide for the next time. I want a little more aggression in the blasting for the type of work I usually do. To be honest, I'm a little concerned about pitting the glass I put in my viewing port from the deflected media, but it's cheap enough that if that happens I can address it without too much an issue. I think the pros outweigh the cons for my purposes.
Maybe other mods made the difference but until the last mod done it remains restricted, so all together it works well, change any of them back and you may see they also make a big difference?? all important.
On the stock cabinet with stock trigger and feed tube, I drilled 1/8th holes, an inch and a half from bottom then 2 inches from that hole thru one side of exterior and interior feed tube then covered exterior tube with heavy duty ducting tape twice. Small piece then a larger piece. Then 1 hole at the fed tube were it connected to the hose and it made a huge difference. I do have high flow on the compressor and hose because I used it for the mail guns. I have the $100. Desk top version. It has a threaded hole at the bottom. So I may do the direct feed like you did later. Thanks for the info. Now it's time to build the dust collector so I can save the glass used for the vapor blasting cabinet in going to make.
Finished the mods today and it’s absolutely a different cabinet. Wrks as I feel it should. So happy. Only difference is I did 1/2 pvc up to cabinet and flex hose attached inside cabinet
i've used those Milton Hi-Flow fittings for years now and they're amazing. Try putting them on die grinders, impact wrenches, etc and you'll see a huge performance improvement.
I have seen recently someone added a larger ceramic tip and got a considerable difference as well, Thanks for the video and explanation of what you have done and doing,
Air supply line diameter should match the blast nozzle size. If blast nozzle is too small for supply line, you will see air pushed out through pick-up tube instead of sucking blast media in.
@@ahmadramadan4097 I have upgraded my compressor since posting that comment 2 years ago. I am now also using 1/2 inch hose to an eastwood "upgraded" gun. The air jet inside the gun and nozzle size need to match; the hose to the gun is the bigger the better. If jet size inside the gun is bigger than the nozzle you wont have suction; it will be blowing out via pick up tube. Also, put the pressure regulator as close to the gun as possible to transfer the air to the blast cabinet at high psi; set blast pressure at the cabinet and have very little PSI loss between regulator and the gun.
I saw this a while back. I remember how clear and simple you made it all sound, and I loved the stepped approach as to how each piece was upgrading the overall performance. I'm a novice at best and was putting together my own pieces and I had to come back and comb through a few pieces to find this one and save it so I can refer back. Really excellent and thanks for taking the time.
@@chrisarneson8644 I didn’t think it was possible either. I run a 150w halogen light inside the box which also heats and dries the air. I wonder if this also creates the conditions that make for more static energy? I don’t know.
The less the air flow, the longer your standing over the cabinet, so it becomes a trade off. All you really need to do is get a used 45kg gas bottle (the internal pressure of LPG gas at 30c is 350psi, so it will handle 120psi of air with ease) pump up all your reservoirs, turn the compressor off, then use all the air, then either start again, or leave it for tomorrow. It's not the lpm rating that determines your work time, it's air storage. Even a small compressor will fill all your tanks eventually. (Works for me).
@@coolhand1964 most people buy air compressors based on what they rate the HP at rather than the cfm at a certain psi for sandblasting and blast cabinets you need rated for the equipment you are using
@@mhughes1160 These cabinets need to run at 80-100psi to be effective. HP relates to the electric engine driving the compressor head. If it is not supplying sufficient cfm to fill the tank, quicker than the cabinet I draining it, the compressor will run continuously and failures of components will occur, because everything gets hotter than its designed to. Small 2 phase compressors are not designed to run continuously. Simple fact. There is also a difference between the cfm rating of the compressor head at a certain rpm and its free air delivery, which is always less.
Compressor size is key to blasting . The bigger the CFM the better. Did blasting years ago. Dressed up like a space man as the blasting cabinet was a room. Exactly like this cabinet only bigger. The blast hose was 2" rubber with a one inch nozzle,
Might make a suggestion here. I have a typical hundred pound pressure pot sandblaster, and I use an ordinary although high-dollar stainless steel 3/8 inch ball valve on it. The fitting that allows the ceramic tip to fit in it. No gun at all. I get a lot of use out of the stainless steel valve before it wears completely out from the abrasive. I'm contemplating doing the same thing with my cheesy Home Depot blast cabinet. Have not gotten it running yet, still trying to dial in the vacuum cleaner, the air intake into the cabinet, putting it on Wheels, etc etc. Thanks for your video.
It's 2020 those are HEALEY 3000 parts ,grill air ducts and valve tapper side covers and shock A arms. I've only restored 20 Big Healeys...in the North East! But I'm in Florida now personally restoring my 2 Datsun Z cars. Ok just checked out your channel I saw Healeys. I ran my own Restoration shop in New England for 20 yrs. I can restore a Healey over the phone ha ha. I've built them all from Healey 100-4 LEMAN to 3000roadsters, to BJ8's and a smattering of Bugeye and side curtain Sprites. Even met Jerry Coker ,and he signed a Bugeye Sprite I finished restoring in Sarasota FL..
It's actually a 57 BN4 100/6. It's the 2nd car I ever fell in love with. The first car I fell in love with was my 280z but sadly she was destroyed by a drunk driver years ago. You and I would get along well!
@@chrisarneson8644 I could tell soon as I saw you were sand blasting big Healey parts. I've had lots of Z cars over the years,I've also had 2 Lotus Europa's, 5 real - mini coopers, 2 Sprites, a 100-4 ,a scirocco, 2 550 Spyder replica's, the only car that called me back, and I had to have was an S30. So I'm restoring ,restomoding a 1973 240z as a Z for Maine driving ,so rally-ish. And a 1978 280 I've restomoded the chassis down to 240 Z weight and spec encluding tail lights and front turn signal lights. Both run L28's with carbs and five speeds. Both run 15x7 wheels.
That's awesome about the restomod 280z and you have great taste in cars. I would love any of those that you mentioned other than maybe the sprites. I have never liked the looks of the non bugeye sprites and frankly any sprite looks downright uncomfortable. I have owned 2 separate 78 280z's and I dearly loved them. The first was a rustbucket but I was dirt-poor and in high school. The 2nd was rust free and looked good until being destroyed. The only reason I didn't get another Z was that I've always been drawn to roadsters so I migrated to Saab 9-3 convertibles. Having an open top is something I love and I have no desire to own a car with a hard top any longer.
@@chrisarneson8644 I'm the opposite I've lived with convertibles all my life. The short window of time you can really enjoy then is limited.. The rest of the time you can not safely see out the back window, the car gets wet, the tops , wear on you to have to put up or down .There are plenty more reasons. But I have good memories of driving in fall, even winter with the top down just enjoying life. Many trips to beaches and summer night clubs... I just like everything about a fast back , room, less noise ,kick ass looks,security Excetra. You go and enjoy your roadsters ! I've already enjoyed ,that side ,to its fullest. It's your turn ! You may like this guys channel..... I can do this work too. But it takes alot of time. ruclips.net/video/3OqwjBlcRJE/видео.html
That particular gun that you have is one of a couple that Harbor Freight ships with these cabinets. That specific gun is nearly identical to TP Tools (Scat Blast) S-35 Series cabinet guns. The only part that I know will not precisely interchange is the power head assembly which, if you have access to a lathe, can be bored out over so slightly to fit the body of the HF gun. The reason I mention this is that TP Tools offers all sorts of nozzles and gaskets that work well and offer a choice of options with these cabinets. I am NOT associated with TP Tools in anyway, I have just found that HF is awkward to obtain parts and accessories from - that used not to be so. Back about 15 years ago HF had an excellent parts dept. Don't know what happened, but the last couple of times I felt ripped off and delivery was dreadfully slow.
I can blast non-stop for an hour and still see fine. I have a pretty basic shopvac but it is fitted with a chinese-clone of a dust deputy. That helps keep the filter clean. I'd suggest cleaning your vac filter. The other thing I can think of is maybe you are using a really soft media. I use fine black beauty from Tractor Supply and literally never change it. To me that tells me that it doesn't break down very fast.
@@chrisarneson8644 I 3D printed a cyclone for myself and that helped a lot also adding a direct pvc tube to the intake of the cyclone from the cabinet made a differnce, but I am using quartz sand 0.1-0.6mm and that does dust a fair bit i might try a different media im just not sure what to buy for paint and rust removal
@@antonio_simuncic Black Beauty is made of coal slag and is really hard. I use the fine version for everything and have been very happy with it. I highly recommend you try it.
Hi. Great vid. I have same cabinet and in dier need of help. Why is your new pick up at bottom so much better then the pick up it came with? Can you use black beauty in yours? Mine won’t run black Beaty it will only run fine fine glass. I’m not happy with this set up and just frustrated.
The pick up at the bottom uses gravity. This is flawless and you can use MUCH less media because it all flows down. The suction tube that HF provides is garbage. Their gun doesn't create enough vacuum for it to suck well. Yes I used fine black beauty all the time. I live in a very dry state so maybe you have moisture problems that I would never experience here.
@@chrisarneson8644 I have everything to have same set up as yours. I’ll hook it all up tm. Still not make complete sense as it’s still a syphon. It’s gravity to the unit thing at bottom but it’s still a syphon up the hose to the gun so idk how it’s going to really make a difference but I’ll see tm if it wrks any better
@@acurarl9929 Your point is solid but I think it's just the way the vacuum works. You basically need air mixed with the sand for it to flow properly. The HF unit does a really lousy job of this. I tried making a different suction tube initially and that worked better than the HF version but not great. The metering valve allows you to adjust the air mixture. I'm not sure I completely understand why but it works so much better for me.
Great job! Got a question, what is your favorite media to use for car parts, like metal that is just thicker than body panels, Inner fender wells to upper control arms and maybe thicker metal such as the differential?
Sorry PSI is what makes the difference. You really need a big hp compressor and big tank. Use some paint remover, a scotch pad, rinse and then blast to get the final finish you want. Your media will stay cleaner longer and the job will take much less time.
I basically took the metering valve with me to Home Depot to look for parts. I believe I used a short double-threaded connection for electrical conduit and electrical nuts to match it. It was probably 1". Just check that it screws in nicely to the metering valve.
Thanks for the upload if only metering valves etc worked everytime....mines so hit and miss its annoying. One day i might have a larger air supply or a motor to power my supersized one and forget about having a cabinet lol
Why is noone talking about air PRESSURE? Air pressure from the compressor equates with air VACUUM drawing grit from the reservoir and therefore the *speed and number of particles* out of the nozzle. Yes, diameter and volume of hoses and fittings is important, but equally is so pressure/vacuum draw. I have a raised hanging 8 litre bucket of grit ABOVE the cabinet (with a feed funnel out its bottom), using gravity to partially feed to the gun. This greatly improves the volume of grit out as well as gun nozzle pressure because vacuum needed is reduced. Sure, it needs refilling each half hour, but that is when I strain it to remove flakes of rubbish, which only lessen cutting efficiency if they are fed back in ... and go round and round.
I personally use Fine Black Beauty but the entire point of updating the cabinet is that you can use any media you choose. Now that it works well I can easily switch media depending on what I am blasting. For my needs the fine black beauty works for everything
pickup tubes are tricky. That's why I scrapped mine and put in a metering valve. The smaller cabinet won't help. You just need a different pickup mechanism and perhaps a better gun.
Made my own gravity feed/metering valve... Still won't dray up media... I've got a decent compressor, water trap in line, I can see the hose trying to suck media up. I end up closing off meter valve and block of gun with finger and back pressure to clear the line and start again. But bugger all still coming through... Got me buggered.
greg campbell Do you have any place for air to get into that metering pickup? You need a small hole to allow air to get sucked in to sand mix. This is critical.
@@chrisarneson8644 yeah mate... It's called a tap... So can open or close it either way. It's like it's getting too much media and the air can't get get thru. I know the principle of how it all works... Only thing I can think of now is running a thin air line under very low pressure to create movement. Bit like an air injection. I work in mining and we use a similar thing on our pump lines underground to assist water up the line when our sumps or pump stations start getting a fair way back... We call the air lifters.. Basically we put a branch in and put a tap on it with mine air (compressed air) and just crack the valve open and that assists the water away from our working headings... Thinking about same concept with this.. Coz at the it sucks(pardon the pun) coz it's not sucking...
@@chrisarneson8644 I was looking on Amazon for the metering valve you are using but to get it from US to Australia... Close $300!! Bloody shipping and exchange rates.. 😡 Shipping was more than the part. So I've been going over the idea of air injection... I'll have a play tomorrow and see if I can get the needed parts to do it...
@@chrisarneson8644 after everything I've done, played around with etc nothing was working. So I decided to swap the gun over from my cheap $50 sandblaster.... It worked. So I've had a dodgy gun from day one. Media would get to gun but no further. Gun looked OK on inspection... My cheap one I've been using I knew worked... So swapped and BAZINGA! Success.
Maaate, We have the same cabinets for sale in Australia. I assembled mine, used it once, then stripped it down and modified it. Seal all seams and around the view glass with silicone sealant, as you screw it all together. That will stop dust blowing out everywhere. I changed the gun to a bigger type, with no trigger, operated by a foot control instead, got rid of the 12v fluoro globe and installed 12v led spotlights, covered with replaceable plastic bags for protection - because there is never enough light in the cabinet, a regulator between the foot pedal and the gun, reinforced rubber low pressure hydraulic hoses, a cyclonic dust separation set up, like yours, nitto fittings with a larger internal diameter and an inline high capacity exhaust fan to draw everything flying around in the cabinet out. It now operates like a large commercial blast cabinet that I was more familiar with using. A little extra work and expense, but still cheaper than a $2500 cabinet and I have saved thousands in blasting costs. A rough blast with river sand, repair any damage visible, then a second blast with 30 micron glass beads. It anneals the alloy if an alloy part and gives it a shine that lasts years. Note: If you are trying to blast painted steel parts, put them in large tub of water with caustic soda added, the paint will hose off after a few days. Then into a tub of plain white vinegar from the supermarket, most rust will hose off after a few days, prior to bead blasting. You will reduce your working time by 80-90%. As well as saving on electricity and wear on your equipment. 🇦🇺👍
You didn't explain what that unit on the bottom outlet does. Is the idea to fluidise the grit so it's picked up more easily? How does that design work?
Yes basically that is it in a nutshell. I sucks in the sand using gravity and allows a precise amount of air to get sucked in as well so they mix and flow. Most low-end blasters use a siphon tube but this metering valve works so incredibly much better. The metering valve is not a complex thing. It's a glorified funnel with a small adjustable air inlet but it is so worth it.
@@chrisarneson8644 - Thanks for that Chris. I'm not convinced that these need to be made from thick material, the media surely isn't that abrasive when gently flowing through the pipes else they would get eaten away in no time. I've decided to design a 3D printed one as an experiment. If that works and lasts a decent length of time, I can always print another one.
Roger Froud Wow I love this idea. I would think a printed part would last a very long time. For simplicity I think you could eliminate the plug from the bottom and print a flange on top to avoid having to make threads there as well. Please document your progress and ideas. I think there would be a lot of interest.
@@chrisarneson8644 - Ok, will do. I've been experimenting with modelling threads for this today, so the plan is to print the retaining parts and plug too.
@Andy B - It worked pretty well. I've got a 3D printed one working on my cabinet. How that compares with other designs, I can't say. It works well enough for the occasional use I have for it.
I have a cabinet and the sand gets stuck when it gets to the gun. It’s the original gun and black diamond media there is no moisture either I’m stumped any help
At last a video made where we can actually see what's been done with examples of pipes and such ,thanks for showing .what blast medium was you using tho ? Ant from Wales UK .👍
I use fine-grit "black beauty". It's cheap, readily available to me, and appears to do a good job. It's the only media I have used though so it's possible that there is something better.
any recommendations on using the 29gal HF compressor with only 5cfm output... i know its not enough didn't know if it will still work. Maybe change out the gun?
First of all I would never recommend a HF compressor. Some of them might be ok but you are playing with fire. As far as the cfm, you can certainly use a smaller compressor but you will have to wait periodically for it to build up pressure. If you aren't doing a bunch of blasting then that might be ok. I would probably recommend looking for a larger used unit than buying a HF compressor. I'd also make sure you get an oiled one since they last so much longer than the oilless units and make MUCH less noise.
@@chrisarneson8644 appreciate the reply. For the amount of times I would use the compressor I can't justify buying a $900 one for the 2x a month I will use it.
@@gman8760 Clearly $900 is excessive. I paid $300 for mine but that was 10 yrs ago. Looks like the equivalent stand up Husky 30gal Oil Lubed unit is $450 now. Honestly a compressor gets a lot of work. I use pneumatic nail guns, grinders, air hammers, paint guns, ... I am REALLY cheap but this is a tool that I really recommend that you get an oil-lubed unit even if it is used.
@@chrisarneson8644 I think the husky, kobalt or DeWalt 60 gal. 3.7HP oiled compressor will be the way to go. 11cfm at 90psi. Should be enough for that sandblasting. The 29gal HF oiled is only 5.4cfm at 90psi... I could always use a smaller gun and nozzle....? 🤔 Thanks for the reply.
@@gman8760 I don't know anything about the HF unit. If it gets good long term reviews then go for it. I typically don't trust anything from HF with an electric motor but there certainly are some quality tools but you definitely have to do your homework first.
That is good but I am sure you will come to regret not putting that support under the grate inside because I have seen a bunch of cabinets that heavy stuff has bent those down, good luck
So have you got you air line feed directly fitted to your gun on quick release fittings? We've just had one at work, and it only tickles the surface atm. It needs more umff. So if I change the airline in the cabinet to a direct feed? Will that work? So it by passes the original standard supplied air pipe?
HelLo Chris thank you for your Excellent Video, only we have a dude because we maybe will to buy this cabinet and use this sandblast method to romove Powder coat paint, do you think in your experience that the Harbor freight 110 Lbs. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster can works to remove the powder coating paint?, thank you for your help my friend
please I need help . I have had my big cabinet like this for over a year and I have yet to be able to use it because I can not get the media to come out of the gun like yours dose and I have tried to do the mods like you have and this just isn't working right . I bought new hoses and new guns and the fitting at the bottom and yet still very little sand will come out...
Without being in front of your cabinet it is nearly impossible for me to troubleshoot your situation. My recommendation would be to start at the beginning and that is verifying that you have any suction. Remove the suction tube from the sand completely. When you pull the trigger on the gun you should be able to put your finger over the suction tube and feel a strong suction. If you have suction then your sand might be clogged. If you don't have a strong suction then you need to figure out why your gun isn't making suction. Good luck. That's really all I can do.
What size compressor are you using... I have the Harbor frieght 60 Gallon 15.8 CFM @ 90 psi. max psi 165. I also have the pick up mod and my media (medium and course charcoal and fine glass beads) never makes it up the clear 1/2 tube for more than a second then falls. I just want this thing to work even moderately well. Right now it sucks hard core.
I have a 30 gallon husky oil lubed compressor that is rated at 5.8 SCFM. Sounds to me like you don’t have tight fittings in your vacuum line or else there’s something wrong with your gun itself. Try taking the end of the inlet hose and see if you actually have a vacuum there. sounds like you don’t
My little 30 gallon compressor is barely big enough but I have had no real complaints. I have blasted for hours at a time. No doubt a bigger compressor would have saved me some time though.
The shopvac running helps immensely. If you don't have a shopvac running then you can't run it for more than a minute or two max. When I have the shopvac running then I can run it basically non-stop for as long as I want. I typically am wearing ear-muffs when I am blasting because of that.
Wow! You blasted through that scale really fast. Thanks for the video. What is your compressor arrangement? How many cfms? I have a 60gal 21 cfm compressor, do you think that should do the job? I’m a complete beginner in sandblasting, that’s why i ask… thanks
@@chrisarneson8644 im using a pancake air compressor 3gallons 100psi . When im sandblasting my pressure goes down really fast . Does that mean i need a bigger air compressor?
Diego Roman Sorry but you’re compressor isn’t way too small. Mine is a 30 gallon oiled pump and it cycles a lot. I sometimes have to take short breaks if I’m doing a lot of blasting.
I haven't had this problem at all and I use about 100psi. I don't know what to tell you. I do a lot of blasting and my glass hasn't really hazed at all.
It's a brand-new cabinet. This is the first time I've send any media through it. There is an initial surge but then nothing. I opened the gun up and made sure nothing was clogging it. I'm using black blast from menards.
That's crazy. Mine just worked instantly. I adjusted the air adjusting screw a little until it was optimized though. I'd start by removing the hose at the metering valve and verify that you have suction when you use the gun. If you don't have suction then there is something wrong with your gun. If you do have suction then reconnect the hose and I would try adjusting the air screw on the metering valve. Next I would verify you don't have a clog in the metering valve somehow with a clump of sand. let me know what your results are. Good luck.
What psi do you set your air compressor when media blasting? I also changed my cabinet to gravity feed but have an issue with intermittent media flow. Also having issues with the valve, too much air stops the media flow, not enough stops the media flow. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I use approx 100psi. I've had no moisture issues but I'm in a very low-humidity area. Any possibility your sand is getting too wet and clogging. Too much air should never stop media flow. Makes no sense to me unless you have a really poorly designed gun.
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 I'm not sure about using PVC. I don't think that will hold up and if it breaks then you've got sand dumping everywhere. It might work but I am leary.
What is the media you are using for blasting? What size compressor and what PSI do you have to have to run it properly? I've seen a lot of negative comments about the Harbor Freight cabinet, but it appears that if you make these modifications it works nicely.
Wow....that turned out absolutely fantastic. As you said, finally a product that Harbor freight carries that doesn't turn out to be absolute junk. I didn't catch what air compressor you're using.... I've love to know your entire pneumatic setup.
Well it certainly can create blockages at the gun but cleaning rusty parts is kinda the whole point. Regardless of what type of pickup mechanism you have you can occasionally get blockages. I find them to be rare though. Typically guns are very easy to take apart and I occasionally have to do that. Mine comes apart with 1 screw. If you saw the nasty stuff I have cleaned in my cabinet with minimal blockages I think your concerns would be eased. The metering valve on the bottom is such a huge improvement in all aspects. Just do it.
Seems as if you've made this HF cabinet work great for you. But I wonder if the cost of all these upgrade improvements makes other brand cabinets (like Eastwood) more justified. I realize some of your upgrades didn't cost you anything because you already had them, however for many people that don't have "extra parts" laying around, I wonder if it's not worth the extra cost to just go with another brand right from the start?
Quite honestly if you can afford it then I would definitely go the Eastwood route. I've always appreciated Eastwood support which HF doesn't have any of. I took the route I did because I didn't really know these things before I started experimenting. Life would be easier and faster had I known the lessons beforehand.
What grit abrasive are you using, I have installed a metering valve on my cabinet and the media will not draw thru. I am using the coarse black diamond from tractor supply and suspect it is too coarse.
david roberts I’ve used both coarse and fine with success. Do you have enough air getting in at your metering valve? Adjust that so you get plenty of air coming in. The other flaw I’ve seen is a jammed up gun. Try taking it apart and make sure you don’t have a chunk stuck in it.
Chris Arneson straight 1/2” line from 80 gal 2 stage compressor and yes I have had to clear the gun but it just isn’t not drawing very well either. I figured I’d try a finer grit it’s not particularly expensive but thought I’d see if you might have some insight. TY for the rapid reply
@@davidroberts3489 There is an adjustment screw on that metering valve. It can make a huge difference. Try adjusting that first. Next try taking the gun apart. I haven't seen the metering valve clog but I have definitely seen the gun clog.
That is awesome Brah! BUT. you also need to mention what type of medium you are using, as that does make a difference in how thing strip off of your surfaces. ;-)
Michael Hoversten no. I drilled a hole through the trap door with a cheap harbor freight stepped drill bit. Then I bought www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-Rigid-Conduit-Nipple-64310/100176533 and a conduit nut. It joins the assembly to the trap door. I think it was 1” but it’s possible it was 1 1/4”.
@@chrisarneson8644 I'm at the same PSI. But my "China Freight" box is too small. the glass beds ricochet back and scratch the glass within just a few hours of operation. I'm hesitant to spend good money on tempered glass just to have the same problem ....or shattering?......"cheers!"
What air dryer are you using in your system? About to do the high flow fitting mod but one of my issues is water & oil coming through to the cabinet from the compressor. Any recommendations for a good value product that works well with your high flow fittings mod?
I use the stock air dryer that came with my Husky compressor. It looks like a clear jar. Honestly I have never had a problem with water in my system. I do use a disposable filter right at the base of my paint guns and have had no problems either. The lack of problems could be because I live in Wyoming which has extremely low humidity though.
Before you're going to be able to get much use out of this, You'll have to make sure that your compressor is capable of producing the volume necessary to be worthwhile.... Just saying...
Hey, thanks for the reply. Angled them how? Did you put them on the vertical face? Would have been better to have put them on the upper wall (where the viewing window is)?
@@lisakarabatsos8470 I put them on the vertical face but they would have been better on the top. Better still would have been at a 45 degree down from the front top joint.
Ok, so I did a number of upgrades to my own cabinet. Including a modified pickup tube and I made the air hose larger. Even after a 3/8 adapter, larger air hose, bigger pickup tube and hose, and all of my other modifications, the cabinet still worked OK.
After watching your video, I went to the shop and upgraded the air fitting to the gun itself. I used a 1/2" barb for the air line and then a reducer to the 1/4" threads for the gun. I hollowed out the brass reducer to a 23/64" orifice. I tested the system after I got it all hooked back up. You are right !!! All of my other mods were marginal. The bigger orifice to the gun made ALL the difference in the world ! This thing is a BEAST now !!!!
What type of media are you using? Silica sand? Glass beads? Walnut Hulls?
@@charleshealy341 I am using glass beads. I am seeing a decrease in performance lately, so I need to change out my media. I think I'm going with Aluminum Oxide for the next time. I want a little more aggression in the blasting for the type of work I usually do. To be honest, I'm a little concerned about pitting the glass I put in my viewing port from the deflected media, but it's cheap enough that if that happens I can address it without too much an issue. I think the pros outweigh the cons for my purposes.
Maybe other mods made the difference but until the last mod done it remains restricted, so all together it works well, change any of them back and you may see they also make a big difference?? all important.
On the stock cabinet with stock trigger and feed tube, I drilled 1/8th holes, an inch and a half from bottom then 2 inches from that hole thru one side of exterior and interior feed tube then covered exterior tube with heavy duty ducting tape twice. Small piece then a larger piece. Then 1 hole at the fed tube were it connected to the hose and it made a huge difference. I do have high flow on the compressor and hose because I used it for the mail guns.
I have the $100. Desk top version. It has a threaded hole at the bottom. So I may do the direct feed like you did later. Thanks for the info. Now it's time to build the dust collector so I can save the glass used for the vapor blasting cabinet in going to make.
Finished the mods today and it’s absolutely a different cabinet. Wrks as I feel it should. So happy. Only difference is I did 1/2 pvc up to cabinet and flex hose attached inside cabinet
Awesome! Well done.
i've used those Milton Hi-Flow fittings for years now and they're amazing. Try putting them on die grinders, impact wrenches, etc and you'll see a huge performance improvement.
Pressure pots the way to go if you can go from cabinet to pressure pot to fill pressure pot .
I have seen recently someone added a larger ceramic tip and got a considerable difference as well,
Thanks for the video and explanation of what you have done and doing,
Air supply line diameter should match the blast nozzle size. If blast nozzle is too small for supply line, you will see air pushed out through pick-up tube instead of sucking blast media in.
Useful to know thank you. Is there a ratio or rule of thumb to follow when considering supply line diameter vs. Nozzle size? Thank you.
@@ahmadramadan4097 I have upgraded my compressor since posting that comment 2 years ago. I am now also using 1/2 inch hose to an eastwood "upgraded" gun. The air jet inside the gun and nozzle size need to match; the hose to the gun is the bigger the better. If jet size inside the gun is bigger than the nozzle you wont have suction; it will be blowing out via pick up tube. Also, put the pressure regulator as close to the gun as possible to transfer the air to the blast cabinet at high psi; set blast pressure at the cabinet and have very little PSI loss between regulator and the gun.
thanks for taking the time
I saw this a while back. I remember how clear and simple you made it all sound, and I loved the stepped approach as to how each piece was upgrading the overall performance. I'm a novice at best and was putting together my own pieces and I had to come back and comb through a few pieces to find this one and save it so I can refer back. Really excellent and thanks for taking the time.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Another useful mod is attaching an earth wire to the gun. I did this because I kept getting static electric shocks through the gloves.
That’s interesting. I’ve never been shocked through the gloves. I’m surprised you have that problem since they’re rubber.
@@chrisarneson8644 I didn’t think it was possible either. I run a 150w halogen light inside the box which also heats and dries the air. I wonder if this also creates the conditions that make for more static energy? I don’t know.
@@chrisz8532 is that outlet grounded properly?
The more the air flow , the larger the air compressor you will need
The less the air flow, the longer your standing over the cabinet, so it becomes a trade off. All you really need to do is get a used 45kg gas bottle (the internal pressure of LPG gas at 30c is 350psi, so it will handle 120psi of air with ease) pump up all your reservoirs, turn the compressor off, then use all the air, then either start again, or leave it for tomorrow. It's not the lpm rating that determines your work time, it's air storage. Even a small compressor will fill all your tanks eventually. (Works for me).
@@coolhand1964 most people buy air compressors based on what they rate the HP
at rather than the cfm at a certain psi
for sandblasting and blast cabinets
you need rated for the equipment you are using
@@mhughes1160 These cabinets need to run at 80-100psi to be effective. HP relates to the electric engine driving the compressor head. If it is not supplying sufficient cfm to fill the tank, quicker than the cabinet I draining it, the compressor will run continuously and failures of components will occur, because everything gets hotter than its designed to. Small 2 phase compressors are not designed to run continuously. Simple fact. There is also a difference between the cfm rating of the compressor head at a certain rpm and its free air delivery, which is always less.
@@coolhand1964 I think that’s what I said .
@@mhughes1160he does seem to rattle on beat that dead horse. Maybe he has a pleasant voice and likes to listen to himself?
Good upgrades thanks
Great tips. I'm glad I tuned in and watched your progress.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Nice job Chris. Good improvements excellent camera work with good lighting.
Compressor size is key to blasting . The bigger the CFM the better. Did blasting years ago.
Dressed up like a space man as the blasting cabinet was a room.
Exactly like this cabinet only bigger.
The blast hose was 2" rubber with a one inch nozzle,
Absolutely. Moving the highest volume of air you can is the key.
Terrific video. I subscribed with enthusiasm. I love experimenters.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Might make a suggestion here. I have a typical hundred pound pressure pot sandblaster, and I use an ordinary although high-dollar stainless steel 3/8 inch ball valve on it. The fitting that allows the ceramic tip to fit in it. No gun at all. I get a lot of use out of the stainless steel valve before it wears completely out from the abrasive. I'm contemplating doing the same thing with my cheesy Home Depot blast cabinet. Have not gotten it running yet, still trying to dial in the vacuum cleaner, the air intake into the cabinet, putting it on Wheels, etc etc. Thanks for your video.
It's 2020 those are HEALEY 3000 parts ,grill air ducts and valve tapper side covers and shock A arms. I've only restored 20 Big Healeys...in the North East! But I'm in Florida now personally restoring my 2 Datsun Z cars.
Ok just checked out your channel I saw Healeys.
I ran my own Restoration shop in New England for 20 yrs. I can restore a Healey over the phone ha ha.
I've built them all from Healey 100-4 LEMAN to 3000roadsters, to BJ8's and a smattering of Bugeye and side curtain Sprites. Even met Jerry Coker ,and he signed a Bugeye Sprite I finished restoring in Sarasota FL..
It's actually a 57 BN4 100/6. It's the 2nd car I ever fell in love with. The first car I fell in love with was my 280z but sadly she was destroyed by a drunk driver years ago. You and I would get along well!
@@chrisarneson8644 I could tell soon as I saw you were sand blasting big Healey parts.
I've had lots of Z cars over the years,I've also had 2 Lotus Europa's, 5 real - mini coopers, 2 Sprites, a 100-4 ,a scirocco, 2 550 Spyder replica's, the only car that called me back, and I had to have was an S30. So I'm restoring ,restomoding a 1973 240z as a Z for Maine driving ,so rally-ish.
And a 1978 280 I've restomoded the chassis down to 240 Z weight and spec encluding tail lights and front turn signal lights.
Both run L28's with carbs and five speeds.
Both run 15x7 wheels.
That's awesome about the restomod 280z and you have great taste in cars. I would love any of those that you mentioned other than maybe the sprites. I have never liked the looks of the non bugeye sprites and frankly any sprite looks downright uncomfortable. I have owned 2 separate 78 280z's and I dearly loved them. The first was a rustbucket but I was dirt-poor and in high school. The 2nd was rust free and looked good until being destroyed. The only reason I didn't get another Z was that I've always been drawn to roadsters so I migrated to Saab 9-3 convertibles. Having an open top is something I love and I have no desire to own a car with a hard top any longer.
@@chrisarneson8644 I'm the opposite I've lived with convertibles all my life.
The short window of time you can really enjoy then is limited..
The rest of the time you can not safely see out the back window, the car gets wet, the tops , wear on you to have to put up or down .There are plenty more reasons. But I have good memories of driving in fall, even winter with the top down just enjoying life.
Many trips to beaches and summer night clubs...
I just like everything about a fast back , room, less noise ,kick ass looks,security
Excetra.
You go and enjoy your roadsters ! I've already enjoyed ,that side ,to its fullest. It's your turn !
You may like this guys channel.....
I can do this work too.
But it takes alot of time.
ruclips.net/video/3OqwjBlcRJE/видео.html
increase your nozzle size, and use a piece of regular 1/2 garden hose for media pickup feed. blast at 90psi. it will make your unit blast like crazy
That particular gun that you have is one of a couple that Harbor Freight ships with these cabinets. That specific gun is nearly identical to TP Tools (Scat Blast) S-35 Series cabinet guns. The only part that I know will not precisely interchange is the power head assembly which, if you have access to a lathe, can be bored out over so slightly to fit the body of the HF gun. The reason I mention this is that TP Tools offers all sorts of nozzles and gaskets that work well and offer a choice of options with these cabinets. I am NOT associated with TP Tools in anyway, I have just found that HF is awkward to obtain parts and accessories from - that used not to be so. Back about 15 years ago HF had an excellent parts dept. Don't know what happened, but the last couple of times I felt ripped off and delivery was dreadfully slow.
How do you not have a huge dust storm inside, my cabinet fills with a duststorm in 30sec even with a vacuum connected?
I can blast non-stop for an hour and still see fine. I have a pretty basic shopvac but it is fitted with a chinese-clone of a dust deputy. That helps keep the filter clean. I'd suggest cleaning your vac filter. The other thing I can think of is maybe you are using a really soft media. I use fine black beauty from Tractor Supply and literally never change it. To me that tells me that it doesn't break down very fast.
@@chrisarneson8644 I 3D printed a cyclone for myself and that helped a lot also adding a direct pvc tube to the intake of the cyclone from the cabinet made a differnce, but I am using quartz sand 0.1-0.6mm and that does dust a fair bit i might try a different media im just not sure what to buy for paint and rust removal
@@antonio_simuncic Black Beauty is made of coal slag and is really hard. I use the fine version for everything and have been very happy with it. I highly recommend you try it.
Wow, very impressed. Thanks for the video !
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Hi. Great vid. I have same cabinet and in dier need of help. Why is your new pick up at bottom so much better then the pick up it came with? Can you use black beauty in yours? Mine won’t run black Beaty it will only run fine fine glass. I’m not happy with this set up and just frustrated.
The pick up at the bottom uses gravity. This is flawless and you can use MUCH less media because it all flows down. The suction tube that HF provides is garbage. Their gun doesn't create enough vacuum for it to suck well. Yes I used fine black beauty all the time. I live in a very dry state so maybe you have moisture problems that I would never experience here.
@@chrisarneson8644 I have everything to have same set up as yours. I’ll hook it all up tm. Still not make complete sense as it’s still a syphon. It’s gravity to the unit thing at bottom but it’s still a syphon up the hose to the gun so idk how it’s going to really make a difference but I’ll see tm if it wrks any better
@@acurarl9929 Your point is solid but I think it's just the way the vacuum works. You basically need air mixed with the sand for it to flow properly. The HF unit does a really lousy job of this. I tried making a different suction tube initially and that worked better than the HF version but not great. The metering valve allows you to adjust the air mixture. I'm not sure I completely understand why but it works so much better for me.
whats the LPM on your compressor?
Great job! Got a question, what is your favorite media to use for car parts, like metal that is just thicker than body panels, Inner fender wells to upper control arms and maybe thicker metal such as the differential?
Awesome! Thank you so much for sharing.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Sorry PSI is what makes the difference. You really need a big hp compressor and big tank. Use some paint remover, a scotch pad, rinse and then blast to get the final finish you want. Your media will stay cleaner longer and the job will take much less time.
Can you tell me the sizes/list of the parts I need to get exactly for the drop feed setup at the bottom. I did air hose an gun upgrade already
I basically took the metering valve with me to Home Depot to look for parts. I believe I used a short double-threaded connection for electrical conduit and electrical nuts to match it. It was probably 1". Just check that it screws in nicely to the metering valve.
Can you tell me about the gloves that go with this unit?
Thanks for the upload if only metering valves etc worked everytime....mines so hit and miss its annoying.
One day i might have a larger air supply or a motor to power my supersized one and forget about having a cabinet lol
Why is noone talking about air PRESSURE? Air pressure from the compressor equates with air VACUUM drawing grit from the reservoir and therefore the *speed and number of particles* out of the nozzle. Yes, diameter and volume of hoses and fittings is important, but equally is so pressure/vacuum draw.
I have a raised hanging 8 litre bucket of grit ABOVE the cabinet (with a feed funnel out its bottom), using gravity to partially feed to the gun. This greatly improves the volume of grit out as well as gun nozzle pressure because vacuum needed is reduced. Sure, it needs refilling each half hour, but that is when I strain it to remove flakes of rubbish, which only lessen cutting efficiency if they are fed back in ... and go round and round.
Great video. I read the comments but couldn’t find compressor size. Could you share?
I have a 30 gallon oil lubed husky compressor. It is only barely large enough.
Great job
good video but not in any of your video do you state the grit of the sand or media?
I personally use Fine Black Beauty but the entire point of updating the cabinet is that you can use any media you choose. Now that it works well I can easily switch media depending on what I am blasting. For my needs the fine black beauty works for everything
Interesting video, I'd like to make my shot blaster better. To cope with the air flow, what sort of CFM is needed?
Im not getting amything with pickup tube..just assembled. Ready to go by the smaller.cabinet from.harbour froeght
pickup tubes are tricky. That's why I scrapped mine and put in a metering valve. The smaller cabinet won't help. You just need a different pickup mechanism and perhaps a better gun.
@@chrisarneson8644 i iust left lowes i spent over 50$ getting fittings for valve. Did you use 1/2 hose?
How much Air pressure so you have to keep it at
I usually start around 100psi and I've been happy with that. I haven't experimented with other values though.
Made my own gravity feed/metering valve... Still won't dray up media... I've got a decent compressor, water trap in line, I can see the hose trying to suck media up. I end up closing off meter valve and block of gun with finger and back pressure to clear the line and start again. But bugger all still coming through... Got me buggered.
greg campbell Do you have any place for air to get into that metering pickup? You need a small hole to allow air to get sucked in to sand mix. This is critical.
@@chrisarneson8644 yeah mate... It's called a tap... So can open or close it either way. It's like it's getting too much media and the air can't get get thru. I know the principle of how it all works... Only thing I can think of now is running a thin air line under very low pressure to create movement. Bit like an air injection. I work in mining and we use a similar thing on our pump lines underground to assist water up the line when our sumps or pump stations start getting a fair way back... We call the air lifters.. Basically we put a branch in and put a tap on it with mine air (compressed air) and just crack the valve open and that assists the water away from our working headings... Thinking about same concept with this.. Coz at the it sucks(pardon the pun) coz it's not sucking...
greg campbell sounds like you have a good understanding of the physics. I’d love to see a photo of your design.
@@chrisarneson8644 I was looking on Amazon for the metering valve you are using but to get it from US to Australia... Close $300!! Bloody shipping and exchange rates.. 😡 Shipping was more than the part. So I've been going over the idea of air injection... I'll have a play tomorrow and see if I can get the needed parts to do it...
@@chrisarneson8644 after everything I've done, played around with etc nothing was working. So I decided to swap the gun over from my cheap $50 sandblaster.... It worked. So I've had a dodgy gun from day one. Media would get to gun but no further. Gun looked OK on inspection... My cheap one I've been using I knew worked... So swapped and BAZINGA! Success.
Maaate, We have the same cabinets for sale in Australia. I assembled mine, used it once, then stripped it down and modified it. Seal all seams and around the view glass with silicone sealant, as you screw it all together. That will stop dust blowing out everywhere. I changed the gun to a bigger type, with no trigger, operated by a foot control instead, got rid of the 12v fluoro globe and installed 12v led spotlights, covered with replaceable plastic bags for protection - because there is never enough light in the cabinet, a regulator between the foot pedal and the gun, reinforced rubber low pressure hydraulic hoses, a cyclonic dust separation set up, like yours, nitto fittings with a larger internal diameter and an inline high capacity exhaust fan to draw everything flying around in the cabinet out. It now operates like a large commercial blast cabinet that I was more familiar with using. A little extra work and expense, but still cheaper than a $2500 cabinet and I have saved thousands in blasting costs. A rough blast with river sand, repair any damage visible, then a second blast with 30 micron glass beads. It anneals the alloy if an alloy part and gives it a shine that lasts years.
Note: If you are trying to blast painted steel parts, put them in large tub of water with caustic soda added, the paint will hose off after a few days.
Then into a tub of plain white vinegar from the supermarket, most rust will hose off after a few days, prior to bead blasting.
You will reduce your working time by 80-90%. As well as saving on electricity and wear on your equipment. 🇦🇺👍
what size bolts on the glass frame? and also any water/oil separator?
oh hells yeah! way faster!
You didn't explain what that unit on the bottom outlet does. Is the idea to fluidise the grit so it's picked up more easily? How does that design work?
Yes basically that is it in a nutshell. I sucks in the sand using gravity and allows a precise amount of air to get sucked in as well so they mix and flow. Most low-end blasters use a siphon tube but this metering valve works so incredibly much better. The metering valve is not a complex thing. It's a glorified funnel with a small adjustable air inlet but it is so worth it.
@@chrisarneson8644 - Thanks for that Chris. I'm not convinced that these need to be made from thick material, the media surely isn't that abrasive when gently flowing through the pipes else they would get eaten away in no time. I've decided to design a 3D printed one as an experiment. If that works and lasts a decent length of time, I can always print another one.
Roger Froud Wow I love this idea. I would think a printed part would last a very long time. For simplicity I think you could eliminate the plug from the bottom and print a flange on top to avoid having to make threads there as well. Please document your progress and ideas. I think there would be a lot of interest.
@@chrisarneson8644 - Ok, will do. I've been experimenting with modelling threads for this today, so the plan is to print the retaining parts and plug too.
@Andy B - It worked pretty well. I've got a 3D printed one working on my cabinet. How that compares with other designs, I can't say. It works well enough for the occasional use I have for it.
Can you reuse the media ?
I have a cabinet and the sand gets stuck when it gets to the gun. It’s the original gun and black diamond media there is no moisture either I’m stumped any help
At last a video made where we can actually see what's been done with examples of pipes and such ,thanks for showing .what blast medium was you using tho ? Ant from Wales UK .👍
I use fine-grit "black beauty". It's cheap, readily available to me, and appears to do a good job. It's the only media I have used though so it's possible that there is something better.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
nice video. just one question, what kind of kompressor do you have, i mean is it an large proffesional or hobby kompressor
30 husky oil lubed model. Only barely big enough.
thanks for the video - Can you please post a link of the attachment you added for media collection in the video
www.amazon.com/Blastline-USA-Abrasive-Metering-Adjustable/dp/B078L7GDYY
sandblaster-parts.com/products/metering-valves-hand-held-1
@@chrisarneson8644 ty so much
@@chrisarneson8644 also is their a particular gun you recommend
Miguel Nin No.
Chris, does the attachment replace the pick-up tube as I think it does?
Yes.
What blast media are you using with this set up?
Thanks for the tips! Well done on the vid... Question -What type of media are you running?
What size air compressor your running?
What are the parts list for this pickup tub up grade?
They are in the video description. Click in the description.
Those look like Austin Healey parts to me. Thanks for the video. 1 question - is the gun a harbor freight special or was it replaced too?
any recommendations on using the 29gal HF compressor with only 5cfm output... i know its not enough didn't know if it will still work. Maybe change out the gun?
First of all I would never recommend a HF compressor. Some of them might be ok but you are playing with fire. As far as the cfm, you can certainly use a smaller compressor but you will have to wait periodically for it to build up pressure. If you aren't doing a bunch of blasting then that might be ok. I would probably recommend looking for a larger used unit than buying a HF compressor. I'd also make sure you get an oiled one since they last so much longer than the oilless units and make MUCH less noise.
@@chrisarneson8644 appreciate the reply. For the amount of times I would use the compressor I can't justify buying a $900 one for the 2x a month I will use it.
@@gman8760 Clearly $900 is excessive. I paid $300 for mine but that was 10 yrs ago. Looks like the equivalent stand up Husky 30gal Oil Lubed unit is $450 now. Honestly a compressor gets a lot of work. I use pneumatic nail guns, grinders, air hammers, paint guns, ... I am REALLY cheap but this is a tool that I really recommend that you get an oil-lubed unit even if it is used.
@@chrisarneson8644 I think the husky, kobalt or DeWalt 60 gal. 3.7HP oiled compressor will be the way to go. 11cfm at 90psi. Should be enough for that sandblasting. The 29gal HF oiled is only 5.4cfm at 90psi... I could always use a smaller gun and nozzle....? 🤔 Thanks for the reply.
@@gman8760 I don't know anything about the HF unit. If it gets good long term reviews then go for it. I typically don't trust anything from HF with an electric motor but there certainly are some quality tools but you definitely have to do your homework first.
That is good but I am sure you will come to regret not putting that support under the grate inside because I have seen a bunch of cabinets that heavy stuff has bent those down, good luck
So have you got you air line feed directly fitted to your gun on quick release fittings? We've just had one at work, and it only tickles the surface atm. It needs more umff. So if I change the airline in the cabinet to a direct feed? Will that work? So it by passes the original standard supplied air pipe?
What media and media size are you using in the video ?
HelLo Chris thank you for your Excellent Video, only we have a dude because we maybe will to buy this cabinet and use this sandblast method to romove Powder coat paint, do you think in your experience that the Harbor freight 110 Lbs. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster can works to remove the powder coating paint?, thank you for your help my friend
I have no experience removing powder coat but I expect blasting would remove it.
WHAT is the make and p/n of the bottom 90º fitting????
where did it come from??
It's called a metering valve and the link to it is in the video description. You may have to click Here's the link though amzn.to/37zTEyX
Which compressor are you using? I'm having a problem getting a compressor that works with my harbor freight setup.
What kind of compressor do you use?
What is the psi you are using.
please I need help . I have had my big cabinet like this for over a year and I have yet to be able to use it because I can not get the media to come out of the gun like yours dose and I have tried to do the mods like you have and this just isn't working right . I bought new hoses and new guns and the fitting at the bottom and yet still very little sand will come out...
Without being in front of your cabinet it is nearly impossible for me to troubleshoot your situation. My recommendation would be to start at the beginning and that is verifying that you have any suction. Remove the suction tube from the sand completely. When you pull the trigger on the gun you should be able to put your finger over the suction tube and feel a strong suction. If you have suction then your sand might be clogged. If you don't have a strong suction then you need to figure out why your gun isn't making suction. Good luck. That's really all I can do.
What size compressor are you using... I have the Harbor frieght 60 Gallon 15.8 CFM @ 90 psi. max psi 165. I also have the pick up mod and my media (medium and course charcoal and fine glass beads) never makes it up the clear 1/2 tube for more than a second then falls. I just want this thing to work even moderately well. Right now it sucks hard core.
I have a 30 gallon husky oil lubed compressor that is rated at 5.8 SCFM. Sounds to me like you don’t have tight fittings in your vacuum line or else there’s something wrong with your gun itself. Try taking the end of the inlet hose and see if you actually have a vacuum there. sounds like you don’t
What size air compressor are you using sir?
30 gallon oil-lubed Husky from Home Depot. It was only barely big enough.
Most air compressors (80 and 120 gal with T-30 I.R. pump) can't keep up with a sandblaster. The best compressors for blasting are tow behind
My little 30 gallon compressor is barely big enough but I have had no real complaints. I have blasted for hours at a time. No doubt a bigger compressor would have saved me some time though.
@@chrisarneson8644 Drain condensate frequently
How do you keep it clear while blasting so you can see what your doing?
The shopvac running helps immensely. If you don't have a shopvac running then you can't run it for more than a minute or two max. When I have the shopvac running then I can run it basically non-stop for as long as I want. I typically am wearing ear-muffs when I am blasting because of that.
Wow! You blasted through that scale really fast. Thanks for the video. What is your compressor arrangement? How many cfms? I have a 60gal 21 cfm compressor, do you think that should do the job? I’m a complete beginner in sandblasting, that’s why i ask… thanks
Your compressor is much larger than my 30 gal compressor.
@@chrisarneson8644 thanks man!!
Sorry . What kind of air compressor psi you using for blasting ? Thank you .
Around 100psi is what my compressor maintains.
@@chrisarneson8644 im using a pancake air compressor 3gallons 100psi . When im sandblasting my pressure goes down really fast . Does that mean i need a bigger air compressor?
Diego Roman Sorry but you’re compressor isn’t way too small. Mine is a 30 gallon oiled pump and it cycles a lot. I sometimes have to take short breaks if I’m doing a lot of blasting.
@@chrisarneson8644oh okay , thanks for your info and help .
@@chrisarneson8644 Do you know how many CFM it's moving at 100 PSI? That's the spec that really matters with these things. Love the vid BTW.
HOW DO YOU BLAST AT A PRESSURE THAT'S HIGH ENOUGH TO GET THE JOB DONE WITHOUT THE MEDIUM BOUNCING BACK UP AND HAZING UP YOUR GLASS?
I haven't had this problem at all and I use about 100psi. I don't know what to tell you. I do a lot of blasting and my glass hasn't really hazed at all.
Polyester film will keep the glass perfect fo decades
What sand is the best for taking hard paint off?
I don't know. I used fine black beauty and was happy with the results.
Do you have any suggestions on how to get the media to start flowing? I can't for the life of me get it to go up the hose.
It's a brand-new cabinet. This is the first time I've send any media through it. There is an initial surge but then nothing. I opened the gun up and made sure nothing was clogging it. I'm using black blast from menards.
That's crazy. Mine just worked instantly. I adjusted the air adjusting screw a little until it was optimized though.
I'd start by removing the hose at the metering valve and verify that you have suction when you use the gun. If you don't have suction then there is something wrong with your gun.
If you do have suction then reconnect the hose and I would try adjusting the air screw on the metering valve.
Next I would verify you don't have a clog in the metering valve somehow with a clump of sand.
let me know what your results are. Good luck.
@@chrisarneson8644 Thanks for the response! I will try those things and let you know how it goes
What psi do you set your air compressor when media blasting? I also changed my cabinet to gravity feed but have an issue with intermittent media flow. Also having issues with the valve, too much air stops the media flow, not enough stops the media flow. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I use approx 100psi. I've had no moisture issues but I'm in a very low-humidity area. Any possibility your sand is getting too wet and clogging. Too much air should never stop media flow. Makes no sense to me unless you have a really poorly designed gun.
@@chrisarneson8644 the gun might be the issues. My media cabinet is from Harbor Freight and I’m still using the original gun that came with it.
What do you call that pickup device you installed? Blastline's web site sucks for looking things up.
SandandSun A metering valve. There is a link to it in the video description.
Great video! God bless!
Part number for pickup?
amzn.to/37zTEyX
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 I'm not sure about using PVC. I don't think that will hold up and if it breaks then you've got sand dumping everywhere. It might work but I am leary.
What psi are you running
Around 100 psi
What is the media you are using for blasting? What size compressor and what PSI do you have to have to run it properly? I've seen a lot of negative comments about the Harbor Freight cabinet, but it appears that if you make these modifications it works nicely.
I use fine grit Black Beauty
It's unfortunate that Harbor Freight stuff usually sucks out of the box, until we modify it.
Yes...harbor freight stuff is cheaply made...but some times you can get around the quality issues & modify it to make it work better
What is the size of your air pump and storage tank?
I use a 30 gallon HUSKY oiled compressor.
How much were all the mods total?
Looks like prices of some parts have gone up but I think I spent $80 on the upgrades. The most expensive one was the valve but VERY worth it.
Wow....that turned out absolutely fantastic. As you said, finally a product that Harbor freight carries that doesn't turn out to be absolute junk. I didn't catch what air compressor you're using.... I've love to know your entire pneumatic setup.
It's a 30gal Husky Oil-Lubed compressor. It's only barely big enough. I sometimes have to wait for it to catch up but not very often.
Sorry if I missed it, but what is the brand/type o gun you’re using there?
It's a Clarke gun out of an old benchtop cabinet I had. It's a much better design than the gun the cabinet came with.
@@chrisarneson8644 Thanks. I’m reviewing your video once again. I like your methodical investigation by changing just one thing at a time.
Heyy, brother how can I contact you. I am trying to make my own sandblasting cabinet and I need help with it. Please reply…
Hi, thinking of doing a similar mod but concerned that blasting rusty items will create blockages at the gun. Any opinions? Thanks Mark
Well it certainly can create blockages at the gun but cleaning rusty parts is kinda the whole point. Regardless of what type of pickup mechanism you have you can occasionally get blockages. I find them to be rare though. Typically guns are very easy to take apart and I occasionally have to do that. Mine comes apart with 1 screw. If you saw the nasty stuff I have cleaned in my cabinet with minimal blockages I think your concerns would be eased. The metering valve on the bottom is such a huge improvement in all aspects. Just do it.
@@chrisarneson8644 always filter media
Seems as if you've made this HF cabinet work great for you. But I wonder if the cost of all these upgrade improvements makes other brand cabinets (like Eastwood) more justified. I realize some of your upgrades didn't cost you anything because you already had them, however for many people that don't have "extra parts" laying around, I wonder if it's not worth the extra cost to just go with another brand right from the start?
Quite honestly if you can afford it then I would definitely go the Eastwood route. I've always appreciated Eastwood support which HF doesn't have any of. I took the route I did because I didn't really know these things before I started experimenting. Life would be easier and faster had I known the lessons beforehand.
What grit abrasive are you using, I have installed a metering valve on my cabinet and the media will not draw thru. I am using the coarse black diamond from tractor supply and suspect it is too coarse.
david roberts I’ve used both coarse and fine with success. Do you have enough air getting in at your metering valve? Adjust that so you get plenty of air coming in. The other flaw I’ve seen is a jammed up gun. Try taking it apart and make sure you don’t have a chunk stuck in it.
Chris Arneson straight 1/2” line from 80 gal 2 stage compressor and yes I have had to clear the gun but it just isn’t not drawing very well either. I figured I’d try a finer grit it’s not particularly expensive but thought I’d see if you might have some insight. TY for the rapid reply
@@davidroberts3489 There is an adjustment screw on that metering valve. It can make a huge difference. Try adjusting that first. Next try taking the gun apart. I haven't seen the metering valve clog but I have definitely seen the gun clog.
Ty
That is awesome Brah! BUT. you also need to mention what type of medium you are using, as that does make a difference in how thing strip off of your surfaces. ;-)
I use fine grade black beauty for everything
@@chrisarneson8644 Thank you for your quick response.
Do you wear respirator ?
Nope. All the dust stays inside. I strongly recommend hearing protection though..
@@chrisarneson8644 okay thanks! What air compressor are you using ?
@@andrewgarcia5458 It's a 30 gallon Husky oil-lubed compressor. It's only barely big enough.
how much psi are you running on the air compressor and what sand/media are you useing?
100psi and fine black beauty
@@chrisarneson8644 were did you got the metering valve?
@@philip2735 Amazon. The link is in the description under the video. It's gone up in price but it makes an incredible difference.
@@chrisarneson8644 thank you im haveing the same issue
Chris, what did you use to fasten the conduit to the trap door?
Michael Hoversten I used a 1” electrical conduit nipple from Home Depot. It matched the threads in the metering valve.
@@chrisarneson8644 Thanks Chris. I appreciate your reply back.
So does the assembly just sit in the hole of the trap door? I'm confused. Sorry.
Michael Hoversten no. I drilled a hole through the trap door with a cheap harbor freight stepped drill bit. Then I bought www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-Rigid-Conduit-Nipple-64310/100176533 and a conduit nut. It joins the assembly to the trap door. I think it was 1” but it’s possible it was 1 1/4”.
WHAT'S YOUR AIR PRESSURE?
I've been using about 100PSI but I haven't experimented with it either. It just works.
@@chrisarneson8644 I'm at the same PSI. But my "China Freight" box is too small. the glass beds ricochet back and scratch the glass within just a few hours of operation. I'm hesitant to spend good money on tempered glass just to have the same problem ....or shattering?......"cheers!"
Great video.What media do u use sand, glass, other?
I use fine black beauty which you can buy cheaply in large bags at Tractor Supply.
@@chrisarneson8644 Thanks
Great vid! What kind of media are you using?
Fine black beauty
@@chrisarneson8644 Is that Aluminum Oxide or something else?
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- I believe it’s coal slag. Black Beauty is a very common brand name.
@@chrisarneson8644 okay. Thx. What are blasting mostly and have you tried Aluminum Oxide?
Are these parts at the end of the video from an old MG car? They look familiar!
Great info on the upgrade as well. Thanks 😊
Chris Sofos It’s a 57 Austin Healey
@@chrisarneson8644 I knew it! I got an MG Midget '67 😊
@@chrisarneson8644 can u send me the fitting I need
What PSI do you run?
around 100 psi but I haven't really messed around with different settings.
Where is the first video! Looks promising...
Oops found it
ruclips.net/video/iu8HY3IkMVc/видео.html
What air dryer are you using in your system? About to do the high flow fitting mod but one of my issues is water & oil coming through to the cabinet from the compressor. Any recommendations for a good value product that works well with your high flow fittings mod?
I use the stock air dryer that came with my Husky compressor. It looks like a clear jar. Honestly I have never had a problem with water in my system. I do use a disposable filter right at the base of my paint guns and have had no problems either. The lack of problems could be because I live in Wyoming which has extremely low humidity though.
@@chrisarneson8644 You should try soggy south Louisiana. BIG condensation problem.
Before you're going to be able to get much use out of this, You'll have to make sure that your compressor is capable of producing the volume necessary to be worthwhile.... Just saying...
How did the 3 puck lights work out for you?
They light up the cabinet great but I wish I had angled them better. When something large is in the cabinet I end up with frustrating shadows.
Hey, thanks for the reply. Angled them how? Did you put them on the vertical face? Would have been better to have put them on the upper wall (where the viewing window is)?
@@lisakarabatsos8470 I put them on the vertical face but they would have been better on the top. Better still would have been at a 45 degree down from the front top joint.