Everyone is obsessed with a lens technically perfect. For me having imperfections makes lenses unique and adds to the enjoyment of being creative and creating art with photos.
This is honestly why I prefer my Canon EF 50mm f1.2 over the new RF series. Much less sharp and contrasty, even the bokeh is rougher with busier backgrounds, but there's something special about that soft, dreamy film look that modern lenses can't replicate.
Yes, posts about photography often remind me of many of the posts I have seen regarding audio equipment. For example, some audiophiles are chasing frequencies that most people cannot hear and/or are trying to remove the "character" that defines the phonograph records many of us grew up listening to. This was the case with early compact discs. Technically perfect can sterilize both an image and a sound.
Guess what I did for $200. I bought a used Sigma 30mm F/1.4 Art crop sensor lens. I then paired it with my Canon 0.71x speed booster. This then brought it down to F/0.994 and attached it to my crop sensor Canon C70. Now I know what you are going to say, there must be a crazy amount of vignetting. NOPE. The Sigma 30mm actually covers a full frame sensor and not many people know about this. It's a hidden gem and anomaly. Because of this, it acts like a full frame lens on my C70 and when paired with the speed booster, I have a 30mm at F/0.994. The image quality and bokeh is spectacular and for the price I paid, it is unheard of and as a bonus, the lens is very small, especially when you compare it to the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art lens which is also $900. ***AND I HAVE AUTOFOCUS :)***.
For light it would be the same as a 0.95 on a Full Frame, but for bokeh, DOF, and blur, it would not be as good as the 0.95 on a full frame.. However, the autofocus alone is worth it!
@@jeremyg9305 not true and the image tells a different story. I have an R5c and R8 and the depth of field is right on par with those cameras. It's pretty awesome not to mention the dynamic range is best in class especially for a camera the size of the C70. I am obsessed with high fidelity and overall image quality and this pairing is exceptional with the Sigma.
@@jeremyg9305 A lens is fixed meaning its focal range and widest possible aperture does not change, it is a constant. The only thing that changes is your sensor size, medium, full, aps-c, m4/3, 1-inch, etc. Yes, if you take an F/1.4 lens that is designed for aps-c meaning smaller image circle and place it on a full frame, you still have F/1.4 across the area that light passes onto, but now you introduce heavy vignette on the edges which is dark or black. The Sigma F/1.4 happens to cover the entire full frame sensor even though it is categorized as a crop sensor lens. This is because the image circle is pretty much the same size as a full frame lens. So now when you connect this to a speed booster which essentially concentrates the light down to the smaller sensor, you are focusing more light from this lens than it is labeled as in a smaller space or more photons are hitting a smaller target. Apply the 0.71x factor and that gives you an F/0.994 across the entire crop sensor. Crop factor does not affect exposure. Full frame cameras gather more light than small sensor cameras at any given ISO and f-stop as they have a greater surface area exposed to light, but with the speed booster, you are accelerating or amplifying the amount of naturally flowing light onto the sensor. Think of pinching the end of a water hose. The pressure and force increases. Same for photons. So, in the end, if I take an F/0.95 lens that is designed to cover full frame and place it on a speed booster which will concentrate that light down even more, and target my crop sensor, the crop sensor will gather more light than the full frame because it will become an F/0.67 with the .71x factor of the speed booster. Yes, the crop lens will be quote on quote brighter than the full frame at this point. Aperture is a measure of light passage through a lens, nothing more. The sensor is the sensor. The sun doesn't burn ants just by itself. When you hold that magnifying glass over them and target them, how bright is that dot and how fast do they get cooked? The magnifying glass is the speed booster.
Hey, Mark... I just wanted to say THANK YOU for all of your efforts and amazing content... and for sharing your personal journey with us. Of course, I come to your videos because of the subject... but it really is your personality and your delivery that is why I love your content. I don't often stop and take stock of that fact... but it really is just YOU being YOU that makes us really enjoy watching. Of course, it wouldn't happen without your expertise, your willingness, following through consistently & doing the work delivering the content... but all that is really just part of YOU being YOU. So, really... a heartfelt Thank You for being out here for us all. It may seem like there's so many people doing the same thing... what's the point. But, we don't want 100 people sharing the same thing... we want to find our 1 or 2 people that we like... and that's you for a whole lot of us. Keep Rocking, My Friend. All the Best to you and your family.
Wow... Today was a bit of a rough day for me, and this comment honestly brought tears to my eyes. I'm so grateful that you shared these thought, thank you so much.
@@markwiemels , I left the comment for you because I want you to know and never doubt for a second that you really are a light in the darkness for us. Not just in the world of gear… but also for content creators as how to do it right… and also as just a voice of sanity and perseverance of following one’s passion and making the effort to share with others in what really seems to be an insane world sometimes. It’s brings comfort to see you and your videos there when we need something worthwhile… a little “Vitamin M”. STRENGTH and HONOR !!!
If you are really going to use one of these lenses, be prepared for 1. Massive light falloff at the max aperture that would normally only get acceptably consistent across the frame from at least 2 stops down i.e. f2 or f2.8 2. Massive spherical (lack of sharpness and visible halo effect) and chromatic aberrations (color fringing) around the frame edges, sometimes right into the central part of the frame as well at the max aperture or 1-2 stops down. 3. For video shooters, better forget about focus transitioning during the recording because the focus breathing would be very noticeable if not downright crazy. Also be aware of longitudinal chromatic aberration that will render most of you out of focus highlight tinged with green or magenta edges at not only the max but at most of the wider apetures. 4. If you think you could at least get a lens with a "character" you like, be sure to test before buying if any or all of the above "character" is the one you are looking for. (Sorry about the bad typos, now corrected)
Yea, agree, touched on this in the video. You get the same character with the $13,000 lens, maybe not exactly the same, but the same type of optical imperfections. I was actually surprised that lens, while not perfect, was as good as it was at 0.95, particularly the center sharpness wide open.
Great review! I bought an M mount Syoptic 50mm 1.1 just to have a fast 50 without breaking the bank. The price/performance and fun/price ratio is incredible. I love the rendering of old Leica glass too but found in the last 50 years that experimenting and being in the right place at the right time produces the best images. Gud Licht!
Thanks for the heads up on what looks like a really fun lens, Mark. It's a shame that they're only making it for modern mirrorless cameras and ironically, it's not available in Leica M mount. So, in the end, it's not an alternative to the $13K Noctilux for me to try out on my vintage Leica M bodies. Still, it looks like fun for those who can use it.
TTartisans have some really cool ones similar and in M-mount. I got the 90mm f1.25 and it’s a gorgeous performer. They also have a 50mm f0.95 that seems quite potent for a fraction of the price but haven’t tried it.
@@zand I ended up acquiring the 7artisans 50mm f1.1 in Leica M mount and I'm currently halfway through a roll of Fujifilm Velvia 50 (color positive film) in my personal quest for Notilux worthy images on a budget. It's physically smaller than the Brighten Star (thus less of issue for viewfinder blockage on classic rangefinders) and I'm hopeful that the nearly as wide aperture will meet my ambitions for subject separation... plus I was lucky enough to pick it up second hand for not much more that CHF200. It's my first non-Leica lens for my vintage rangefinders and I have high hopes for it. 😍
@@WMedl according to the Brighten Star web site it's available in: Canon RF mount, Leica L mount (not M), Nikon Z mount, and Sony, E mount. It's not rangefinder coupled; it's not for M mount.
I absolutely LOVE bright 50mm lenses! Have had a couple dozen of them, different manufacturers, different systems, different formats, different periods. The issue with the Noctilux is that most people talk about the WRONG version of the lens. The Noctilux 50/.95 absolutely SUCKS. It's a shallow DoF monster, but has no bokeh. It has background blur. In my book bokeh = character. And the Noctilux that had bokeh with character was the original 50/1.0 version. So the all the Mitakons, TTartisans, 7Artisans that try to copy the new Noctilux are all not worth a penny to me. I mean everyone will like a different rendering character or style, there's space for a whole spectrum of lenses for a whole spectrum of photographers. This one is just not for me. If anyone wants a comparison, I recommend lenses like the Zeiss Biotar 50/1.4, the Zeiss Contax Planar 50/1.4, the Canon 50/1.2 LTM, the Zeiss Pancolar 55/1.4, the Olympus Zuiko 55/1.2, the original Canon 50/1.0L, the Zeiss Biotar 75/1.5 on medium format, or the Kodak Aero Ektar 178/2.5 on medium or large format.
I’m a big fan of vintage lenses too, but they do come with their own set or challenges, particularly finding clean ones with no issues. I personally prefer many of the affordable Chinese made manual lenses, they have an image that is somewhere between a modern lens and a vintage lens, and lack the worry of fungus, haze, and other issues that you often encounter with vintage lenses. I do enjoy the hunt for be good vintage lens though.
I know, I got my S5 II after I got this lens, probably would have got it in L mount instead of E. I think it will play well with the utlra-sharp Panasonic image, it will take a bit of that digital edge off of it, should give a super image.
One thing you have to watch out for is the cheaper lenses is they have a much lower quality control standard. I've gotten a Mikton lens (another one of the Noc-offs) that came from the MFG with the front element loose which caused issues, like a warped plane of focus. Other times I have tested them and the loose tolerances in mfg mean the lens will not focus to infinity or if using an optical view finder will not match what you are seeing. If you know how to use a lens calibration target please test to make sure you're getting a good copy. I assume since this was a mfg copy you didn't have any of those issues.
Sample variation is a real thing for sure! You even get it with the major brands. I think those issues are becoming less and less prevalent now, but I do check all my new lenses for sharpness, decentering, etc.
There is another stellar lens of a similar kind - TTArtisam 50mm F0.95 ASPH. I have tested it, and It produces absolutely stunning images on Leica M11 Monochrom at f/0.95.
This is tough... I wanted to get one immediately, only to have this showstopper of a problem: This lens is only suitable for mirrorless cameras. It is not available in any of the SLR mounts, so no EF or anything that can be adapter-ringed to EF.
@@j.b.7133 Thanks for the suggestion, but no. Not for me, at least not yet. I'm only an amateur photographer and my 10 year old 5D Mk III serves me just fine. Replacing my kit with RF hardware is going to get costly.
Interesting. About 8-10 years ago, it was somewhat of a fad to create a Noctilux 50/0.95 knock off, and there were at least three other prior attempts, two of which I tested. The best known amongst them was made by Mitakon Zhongyi. It was OK, especially their second version, but it felt a little flat. Voigtlander makes a really good Nokton 50mm f/1 lens that is much sharper than the Nocti and better corrected, but it is a clinically good modern lens with a scratchy bokeh. It is not LSD-compatible with the Nocti in terms of reproducing all the color fringing, LOCA / LACA, etc. the Nocti generates. So if the artistic rendering is what you're looking for, the CV is probably not the answer. So to clarify, is the Brighton Star's claim to fame that it renders like the Nocti? Thank you for your insights.
Interesting review. I am tempted to get one for the L-mount. However on Amazon, I have noticed the reviews have not been good. Have you paired this with the s5ii or S5iix?
I have not, I do have an S5 II, but the lens I have is E mount, and I used it on my A7IV. In theory, the 33mp sensor in the Sony should be more demanding than the Panasonic. You should be able to look at the samples in this video and get a pretty clear idea of what to expect.
Very interesting lens. I am eager to try it out. Hope I will get a chance soon! Also, a very well-done video, thank you. Currently, my favorite lens is a vintage 50mm f/1.4. But I would really like it to be a bit faster for low-light conditions.
As awesome as this looks it doesn’t meet the main requirement of having an M mount version. Shame they don’t have an M mount version as that would make it become a real alternative to the noctilux for m mount users
I need some help. This might not be the correct video, but I don’t understand. New Canon R cameras do not support 3rd party lenses. So, if i buy a lens like this. Will it not work? Sorry
Hi there, Thanks for your inquiry. Please note all of our lenses are manual focus lenses, which means we need to adjust the lens manually instead of autofocusing. Canon's authorization limits are for RF mount autofocus lens electrical signal transmission protocol, not for manual focus lenses. Because the MF lens will not have lens contact. Please feel free to use it. :)
I have two Noctilux lenses and this lens does not look like them, at all. However, it looks like a fun little lens in its own right. I have the 0.95 and 1.0 and this lens differs from the real ones as much as they differ from each other.
Important tech question: how many degree is the twist to focus from close to infinity? Without the +270 degree twist, people will miss the focus every time
Hi Mark, I follow your channel for quite some time already and your reviews are really cool! But one thing I was wondering for some time , do you have a specific reason why you never write the lens brand names on your video titles or video descriptions?
Yes, as the other comments have said, it's a views strategy. I really want people to know about these budget lens options, that are so incredibly good, and this seems to be the best way to introduce people to them.
I have a Zoom q2n 4k video recorder. The stock lens sucks and is grainy in low light. Worst complaint about the camera. So I had to cut away the plastic shroud around the lens and put in an m12 f0.95 lens into it. I got the lens on Amazon for like $20. No ir filter though. But anyway the camera is great in low light now. I have found using it for macro and close up stuff is awesome. Better than any macro lenses out there almost.
I tried all of the overseas lenses. The best one by far imho is the 45mm Venus Optics 0.95 it also happens to be the most expensive too. But I use mine so often for artsy shots the price was justified. I even bought the 35mm version.
Wish this came in M mount so I can use it on both my Leica M10 and M10 Monochrom as well as my Leica SL. I love character lenses, the imperfections sparks my creativity in a different way that modern perfect apochromatic lenses can’t. I’m definitely buying this for my SL.
I used the Amazon link you provided for Sony. Made the purchase and hopefully you will eventually receive compensation. There a note to set the camera to "release without lens" mode. I have the Sony A7IV. Do you know where the setting is located?
Thank you. I am away from my studio and don’t have the camera with me. The Sony menus, although improved, are still a maze, I can’t recall the location of the setting. Try googling it, I often find the answer that way.
Hey!! Where are you based? I was just watching this review and noticed what I thought was S. Haven pier, which piqued my interest. Then I saw a photo of Captain Lou’s in SH, a restaurant owned by my step-son. Interesting. Are you in SH? We live in Kalamazoo.
The main thing is that this is full frame, the T1.05 lenses are APS-C. I love the look out of those cine lenses, if you are shooting on an APS-C camera.
Best observation ever… One group just making ‘art’. The other group pixel peeping and looking for faults. Feels like a life lesson, but I am a little drunk right now. 😀😁😅
Probably cause of flange distance. Making a 0.95 lens for a camera with a mirror is hard, if not impossible. That’s why Leica/canon rangefinders were the only ones with 0.95 lenses for a very long time
Mirrorless is technically better in every single way. There's no way they're going to spend millions upon millions to produce for a lens that's made for a market in decline since 2014. Almost ten years ago. I think it might be time to move on. Even a cheap mirrorless camera is now producing ridiculously high quality and features over many of the pro DSLRs from yesteryear
Unfortunately, DSLR’s are essentially a dead technology, so manufacturers are generally not going to pour money into making a lens for a market that is shrinking.
The very best f/0.95 lens is the Nikon Z 58 mm f/0,95 S NOCT - it is optically perfect, but the price tag is as crazy as of the Leica Noctilux. All other f/0.95 lenses have many optical flaws and they are quite soft at the widest apperture settings. I also think that the TTartisan 50mm f/0.95 and Laowa Argus 45mm f/0.95 are optically better than the Brightin Star.
I'll make do with my TT Artisans 50mm f0.95 ... Cheap, well made, great image quality, and I get to keep a few grand in the back, or spend a few more pounds and get the TT artisans 35mm f0.95 to go with it.
I tried them all.. Leikas.. nikons... both manual focus only and the sharpnes lags crazy... I have the fuji 50mm f1.0 THAT is a beauty of a lens 👌🏻👌🏻 very sharp.. beautiful out of focus areas and awesome build quality.. yess its not cheap but out of ALL the 0.95 or 1.0 its the best in my opinion and i had them side by side in comparison.. Try it if You get Your hands on 👊🏻
@@markwiemels its a absolut treat.. i began shooting things i never would shoot otherwise.. i mean as example a simple lightpole in upcoming sun.. looks stuning with f1.0 I can only recommend it :) and the sharpness is very fine but not clinical like with the macro honestly i never used my 50mmf2 again also becouse on the xh2 the f1.0 isnt that bulky I press thumbs You get Your hands on that Lens somwhen :)
I guess the Noctilus is a rebranded Bright Star with a Leica logo then... In terms ofbuse.. for photo it might be good but for video nah... usually shoot at f4 and for low light.. we dont do what amteurs do, who rely on low light lenses and camera. The solution for low light is to use light
I have a Mikaton Speedmaster and a Sony GM 50mm f/1.2; and I swear that 1.2 does everything the Speedmaster does, including light capture. New lens tech might achieve the light transmission of 1.2 equal to what the old 0.95 did a decade ago.
It’s a complicated subject, but if that’s what you’re seeing, you’re probably right. They are few factors involved, including how accurate the f0.95 was to begin with, and the type and design of the glass eliminates can actually decrease light transmission, compared to another lens.
Yes, the value of the 0.95 really come into play when the subject is some distance from the camera. You can still isolate the subject, and the blur would be similar to what you might get at f2.8 in a close up shot.
@@markwiemels I see yeah your right flexibility will come to play there getting enough shallow depth of field even with far from camera subjects. But then would it look like a wide prime in its highest aperture like f1.4 being close to the subject? Or maybe with less distortion on 50mm? This is really an interesting topic I wish to see some tests some time.
It is always great to look at the results in terms of feelings, great lens. But why splitting photographers in two? Some people spend way more than the price of a noctilux on options for their car or bike, and they can always buy/sell the lens second hand, enjoy the glass in the meantime, and not spend that much at the end don’t you think? (and actually make a buck or two in the process ;) )
Yes, someone could totally do that, agree. I still think most people would not put 13K on the line for a camera lens, but might be willing to try a lens for $388.
Who in their right mind would spend that much on a lens? Well Pro's like me for a start - if I did a quick count around the studio in various drawers and on various cameras I would say theres probably £300-350K - poss more - I think the most expensive one we bought (at the time) was a Schneider Kreuznach zoom for our Hass 500 - I still have that one - we still rock a 6mm Nikon from the 80's which then cost 12k? And then theres some of our Sinar LF lenses which I cannot even remember how much they were. I am exactly the sort of person which would buy the 12K lens and not the cheap copy. We have had cheap copies in the past and they just won't cut the Pro custard.
For sure this is to give amateurs, and the less fortunate, a taste of this type of lens. Although I have no doubt that a pro could still use this lens to great effect, it’s not the target market.
@@markwiemels I understand completely of course but you asked the question so I thought I would answer it - and with some context - I have bought in the past like many other Pro's and amateurs alike - hundreds and hundreds of different lenses and cameras - some purely for vanity - some I have kept and some get moved on - in fact I have passed many on to hobbyists and enthusiastic amateurs alike - mostly for free - because they will always make more use of them than I ever will - when I ran the largest agency in the Southwest - we had dozens of photographers coming to us - mostly weekend people who were actually better at their picture making than we could ever hope to be - not all - but certainly some - we are busy working and they are busy crafting their skill!!! - Good stuff. Keep on shooting people.
@@markwiemels Addendum I have just remembered I gave a student a modded Sony something or other which I had converted to Infrared for a particular shoot - she had absolute delight on her face when I presented her with a camera - a Manfrotto tripod I had been given by Manfrotto (25th anniversary edition) and a couple of Zeiss Loxia's - which I found to be a bit fiddly - it is about giving back sometimes - I always try to support anyone on the periphery of the industry - as has been seen time and time again some can even end up working with you. Just going over your video story again - I do think they missed a trick not making it Leica M compatible - good stuff
these chinese lens manufacturers like ttartisan and these guys for example sometimes manage to make lenses on par with zeiss and leica due to having vintage design
@@markwiemels I'm located right outside of town. I'm a digital cinematography student at Full Sail University. I'll have to take my gear out there sometime. My set up is just pretty hefty and a lot to transport LOL
@@Im_Derivative It's a great spot. Have a coffee at Snake Oil Roasters and tell them I said hello, they know me well. I live in Australia, so only get there once a year.
So i love cheap lenses. I was collecting M42s from thrift shops before IG discovered Helios. I've also got a new Micke that's given me pause because I'm about 80% is a dupe for a mid-century lens. Then there's this one that's a dupe for a Noctilux, there's apparently a 7 Artisans that is also a dupe. But here's the thing- there is an huge issue with IP theft currently. Reverse engineering a lens is tough, just happening to make the same lens is unlikely. Sure $400 lenses are tempting but what exactly is the design and development process here?
It is a significantly different optical design. I think they essentially were reveres engineering the image and specs, but the optics are quite different. One is 8 elements in 5 groups, the other is 10 in 9. As a side note, I'm working on a series about vintage lenses now.
To be fair, pretty much no one takes any lens out to go shoot test charts or other lab tests for a lens outside a review. I think people have got it in their heads that if something doesn't perform perfect and to the point of being sterile in a lab setting, that it's worthless garbage. All they see are influencers and blogs putting out a dozen near identical images talking about corner sharpness at max aperture, and they don't see that maybe at the end of the post there are a few sample images of photos taken for the same of just being photos and not tests. This mentality has kind of ruined the favor of a lot of fantastic gear over the years. If it doesn't perform perfect at 6400 ISO against a test chart, it's trash. That's where you get the "if it's not full frame, it's trash" sentiments. Meanwhile, you can get fantastic images with a digicam if you know what you're doing and have experience going out and actually taking photos rather than ranting on forums about spec sheets and lab shots. At this point, my most used bodies in my kit are actually old MFT bodies (Olympus E-P5/E-M5 Mark II and Panasonic GX8) and a couple Pentax cameras (KP and K-1.II, so APS-C and then full frame when I really need it, which is less and less with how amazing the KP is with higher ISO, and I'm REALLY close to selling it off for a lens or two).
It’s also not great for new photographers, trying to operate on a budget. They pass up some great affordable gear, and spend more than they need too, on lenses that take great test chart images.
Environmental portraits. You can take a shot of someone from like 15-20 feet away and still have a good amount if background separation combined with a wider field of view. It's a unique look similar to what you can get with medium format.
Yes, when you are close to someone, the one eye in focus is exactly what happens, but as you move away the DOF becomes less shallow, but you can still blur the background, like the other commenter has said.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
* GET THE LENS HERE *
SONY - geni.us/B5cUO
CANON RF - geni.us/X4rf
L MOUNT - geni.us/J4B70XA
Z MOUNT - geni.us/sEFXe5l
@@nadinesmoske8831 7artisans makes a wonderful and affordable 50mm f/0.95 for MFT that I really enjoy shooting on both my G9 and GX9.
You could buy a $15 Sony E mount to m4/3 adapter since it is a manual focus/F stop lens and not lose any utility from it.@@nadinesmoske8831
great but they dont make it for leica M mount....
Where is fujifilm?
Are there Pentax K versions?
Lovely video Mark - how does this compare to 7artisans or Ttartisans 0.95? Or the other existing 0.95 lenses out in the market?
Everyone is obsessed with a lens technically perfect. For me having imperfections makes lenses unique and adds to the enjoyment of being creative and creating art with photos.
Yes, that is kinda where I’m at too.
I intentionally buy bargain vintage lenses for this exact reason, I love imperfect frames, crazy light leaking, whacky unpredictable flares, etc
This is honestly why I prefer my Canon EF 50mm f1.2 over the new RF series. Much less sharp and contrasty, even the bokeh is rougher with busier backgrounds, but there's something special about that soft, dreamy film look that modern lenses can't replicate.
Yes, posts about photography often remind me of many of the posts I have seen regarding audio equipment. For example, some audiophiles are chasing frequencies that most people cannot hear and/or are trying to remove the "character" that defines the phonograph records many of us grew up listening to. This was the case with early compact discs. Technically perfect can sterilize both an image and a sound.
@@farid1406 I had that lens with a 5d Mark ii and the pictures were magical.
I got it on Black Friday. I'm surprised, as a wildlife photographer who revels in long, fast autofocusing lenses, that I enjoy using it so much.
Guess what I did for $200. I bought a used Sigma 30mm F/1.4 Art crop sensor lens. I then paired it with my Canon 0.71x speed booster. This then brought it down to F/0.994 and attached it to my crop sensor Canon C70. Now I know what you are going to say, there must be a crazy amount of vignetting. NOPE. The Sigma 30mm actually covers a full frame sensor and not many people know about this. It's a hidden gem and anomaly. Because of this, it acts like a full frame lens on my C70 and when paired with the speed booster, I have a 30mm at F/0.994. The image quality and bokeh is spectacular and for the price I paid, it is unheard of and as a bonus, the lens is very small, especially when you compare it to the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art lens which is also $900. ***AND I HAVE AUTOFOCUS :)***.
For light it would be the same as a 0.95 on a Full Frame, but for bokeh, DOF, and blur, it would not be as good as the 0.95 on a full frame..
However, the autofocus alone is worth it!
@@jeremyg9305 not true and the image tells a different story. I have an R5c and R8 and the depth of field is right on par with those cameras. It's pretty awesome not to mention the dynamic range is best in class especially for a camera the size of the C70. I am obsessed with high fidelity and overall image quality and this pairing is exceptional with the Sigma.
@@JapaneseMonster I'm not sure I follow, an f.95 on a full frame and an f. 95 on an APSC crop should give different results.
@@jeremyg9305 A lens is fixed meaning its focal range and widest possible aperture does not change, it is a constant. The only thing that changes is your sensor size, medium, full, aps-c, m4/3, 1-inch, etc. Yes, if you take an F/1.4 lens that is designed for aps-c meaning smaller image circle and place it on a full frame, you still have F/1.4 across the area that light passes onto, but now you introduce heavy vignette on the edges which is dark or black. The Sigma F/1.4 happens to cover the entire full frame sensor even though it is categorized as a crop sensor lens. This is because the image circle is pretty much the same size as a full frame lens. So now when you connect this to a speed booster which essentially concentrates the light down to the smaller sensor, you are focusing more light from this lens than it is labeled as in a smaller space or more photons are hitting a smaller target. Apply the 0.71x factor and that gives you an F/0.994 across the entire crop sensor. Crop factor does not affect exposure. Full frame cameras gather more light than small sensor cameras at any given ISO and f-stop as they have a greater surface area exposed to light, but with the speed booster, you are accelerating or amplifying the amount of naturally flowing light onto the sensor. Think of pinching the end of a water hose. The pressure and force increases. Same for photons. So, in the end, if I take an F/0.95 lens that is designed to cover full frame and place it on a speed booster which will concentrate that light down even more, and target my crop sensor, the crop sensor will gather more light than the full frame because it will become an F/0.67 with the .71x factor of the speed booster. Yes, the crop lens will be quote on quote brighter than the full frame at this point. Aperture is a measure of light passage through a lens, nothing more. The sensor is the sensor. The sun doesn't burn ants just by itself. When you hold that magnifying glass over them and target them, how bright is that dot and how fast do they get cooked? The magnifying glass is the speed booster.
😂😂😂😂
Nice. What solvent do I need to remove that logo?
Hey, Mark... I just wanted to say THANK YOU for all of your efforts and amazing content... and for sharing your personal journey with us. Of course, I come to your videos because of the subject... but it really is your personality and your delivery that is why I love your content. I don't often stop and take stock of that fact... but it really is just YOU being YOU that makes us really enjoy watching. Of course, it wouldn't happen without your expertise, your willingness, following through consistently & doing the work delivering the content... but all that is really just part of YOU being YOU. So, really... a heartfelt Thank You for being out here for us all. It may seem like there's so many people doing the same thing... what's the point. But, we don't want 100 people sharing the same thing... we want to find our 1 or 2 people that we like... and that's you for a whole lot of us. Keep Rocking, My Friend. All the Best to you and your family.
Wow... Today was a bit of a rough day for me, and this comment honestly brought tears to my eyes. I'm so grateful that you shared these thought, thank you so much.
@@markwiemels , I left the comment for you because I want you to know and never doubt for a second that you really are a light in the darkness for us. Not just in the world of gear… but also for content creators as how to do it right… and also as just a voice of sanity and perseverance of following one’s passion and making the effort to share with others in what really seems to be an insane world sometimes. It’s brings comfort to see you and your videos there when we need something worthwhile… a little “Vitamin M”.
STRENGTH and HONOR !!!
I have a TTartisan 50mm f0.95 on my R5 and it produces awesome pictures just like these.
If you are really going to use one of these lenses, be prepared for
1. Massive light falloff at the max aperture that would normally only get acceptably consistent across the frame from at least 2 stops down i.e. f2 or f2.8
2. Massive spherical (lack of sharpness and visible halo effect) and chromatic aberrations (color fringing) around the frame edges, sometimes right into the central part of the frame as well at the max aperture or 1-2 stops down.
3. For video shooters, better forget about focus transitioning during the recording because the focus breathing would be very noticeable if not downright crazy. Also be aware of longitudinal chromatic aberration that will render most of you out of focus highlight tinged with green or magenta edges at not only the max but at most of the wider apetures.
4. If you think you could at least get a lens with a "character" you like, be sure to test before buying if any or all of the above "character" is the one you are looking for.
(Sorry about the bad typos, now corrected)
Yea, agree, touched on this in the video. You get the same character with the $13,000 lens, maybe not exactly the same, but the same type of optical imperfections. I was actually surprised that lens, while not perfect, was as good as it was at 0.95, particularly the center sharpness wide open.
Great review! I bought an M mount Syoptic 50mm 1.1 just to have a fast 50 without breaking the bank. The price/performance and fun/price ratio is incredible. I love the rendering of old Leica glass too but found in the last 50 years that experimenting and being in the right place at the right time produces the best images. Gud Licht!
Props to you Mark! No " Sort of" in your recent videos. I enjoy your perspective sans "sort of"! And you are a fabulous pro.
I have seen a few of your videos now. Concise, energetically delivered... I am now subscribed. Have a great weekend.
Thanks for the heads up on what looks like a really fun lens, Mark. It's a shame that they're only making it for modern mirrorless cameras and ironically, it's not available in Leica M mount. So, in the end, it's not an alternative to the $13K Noctilux for me to try out on my vintage Leica M bodies. Still, it looks like fun for those who can use it.
TTartisans have some really cool ones similar and in M-mount. I got the 90mm f1.25 and it’s a gorgeous performer. They also have a 50mm f0.95 that seems quite potent for a fraction of the price but haven’t tried it.
The TTartisan 50mm f0.95 knockofftilux, the one I have, comes in Leica M mount, I had to adapt it.
@@zand I ended up acquiring the 7artisans 50mm f1.1 in Leica M mount and I'm currently halfway through a roll of Fujifilm Velvia 50 (color positive film) in my personal quest for Notilux worthy images on a budget. It's physically smaller than the Brighten Star (thus less of issue for viewfinder blockage on classic rangefinders) and I'm hopeful that the nearly as wide aperture will meet my ambitions for subject separation... plus I was lucky enough to pick it up second hand for not much more that CHF200. It's my first non-Leica lens for my vintage rangefinders and I have high hopes for it. 😍
Thats not true, you get it with a Leica M mount!
@@WMedl according to the Brighten Star web site it's available in: Canon RF mount, Leica L mount (not M), Nikon Z mount, and Sony, E mount. It's not rangefinder coupled; it's not for M mount.
My favorite lens have been the Mitakon Speedmaster 17mm f/0.95 which I have been using for couple of years.
Oh, I didn't even know that lens existed! 17mm and 0.95 is unique for sure.
I absolutely LOVE bright 50mm lenses! Have had a couple dozen of them, different manufacturers, different systems, different formats, different periods. The issue with the Noctilux is that most people talk about the WRONG version of the lens. The Noctilux 50/.95 absolutely SUCKS. It's a shallow DoF monster, but has no bokeh. It has background blur. In my book bokeh = character. And the Noctilux that had bokeh with character was the original 50/1.0 version. So the all the Mitakons, TTartisans, 7Artisans that try to copy the new Noctilux are all not worth a penny to me. I mean everyone will like a different rendering character or style, there's space for a whole spectrum of lenses for a whole spectrum of photographers. This one is just not for me.
If anyone wants a comparison, I recommend lenses like the Zeiss Biotar 50/1.4, the Zeiss Contax Planar 50/1.4, the Canon 50/1.2 LTM, the Zeiss Pancolar 55/1.4, the Olympus Zuiko 55/1.2, the original Canon 50/1.0L, the Zeiss Biotar 75/1.5 on medium format, or the Kodak Aero Ektar 178/2.5 on medium or large format.
Wow thanks for sharing. Of the ones you recommended, which was would you suggest starting with?
I’m a big fan of vintage lenses too, but they do come with their own set or challenges, particularly finding clean ones with no issues. I personally prefer many of the affordable Chinese made manual lenses, they have an image that is somewhere between a modern lens and a vintage lens, and lack the worry of fungus, haze, and other issues that you often encounter with vintage lenses. I do enjoy the hunt for be good vintage lens though.
L mount and full frame at that! Thanks for the find and the review, Mark
I know, I got my S5 II after I got this lens, probably would have got it in L mount instead of E. I think it will play well with the utlra-sharp Panasonic image, it will take a bit of that digital edge off of it, should give a super image.
I recently got the PGY strap connectors an use them with my stock Sony camera strap.
You’ve successfully made me have a unquenchable desire for something I didn’t even know existed 5 minutes ago. Thanks for that. 😆
LOL.Well, welcome to my world...
@@markwiemels soon as I hear low light, F anything below 1.8 and affordable, I’m all ears. 😆
In the real world even a
Awesome review thanks - you’re content is always super practical and down to earth ❤
Which one works on fujifilm?
One thing you have to watch out for is the cheaper lenses is they have a much lower quality control standard. I've gotten a Mikton lens (another one of the Noc-offs) that came from the MFG with the front element loose which caused issues, like a warped plane of focus. Other times I have tested them and the loose tolerances in mfg mean the lens will not focus to infinity or if using an optical view finder will not match what you are seeing.
If you know how to use a lens calibration target please test to make sure you're getting a good copy. I assume since this was a mfg copy you didn't have any of those issues.
Sample variation is a real thing for sure! You even get it with the major brands. I think those issues are becoming less and less prevalent now, but I do check all my new lenses for sharpness, decentering, etc.
There is another stellar lens of a similar kind - TTArtisam 50mm F0.95 ASPH. I have tested it, and It produces absolutely stunning images on Leica M11 Monochrom at f/0.95.
Yes, I have had my eyes on that one. Looks good.
@@markwiemels It's more expensive than Brightin Star, but really good :).
The Amazon page for the Canon lens says three things that are contradictory: RF Mount, APC-C, full frame
So very true...😊.. great review 🙏
I have the mitakon 50mm .95. Great lens really like their images
I dropped mine...but I loved it before losing it...knocked something lose.
@@901pics fug. At least it's not a crazy expensive lens
This is tough... I wanted to get one immediately, only to have this showstopper of a problem: This lens is only suitable for mirrorless cameras. It is not available in any of the SLR mounts, so no EF or anything that can be adapter-ringed to EF.
Correct. Tbh, the camera world has moved on from dslr almost entirely. You should too
@@j.b.7133 Thanks for the suggestion, but no. Not for me, at least not yet.
I'm only an amateur photographer and my 10 year old 5D Mk III serves me just fine. Replacing my kit with RF hardware is going to get costly.
Great video (as always). The shot of yourself that you open with, what lens are you using there-the Viltrox or the Sigma?
Sigma, but the Viltrox 16mm would likely look the same on a crop sensor or in crop mode, as they are both 16mm lenses.
@@markwiemels Thanks so much!
This sounds like a great lens I wonder how it compares to the ttartisan version?
Agree.
Great review. For me I would spend just a little more and buy the 50mm T1.05 APS-C MF Cine Lens that you reviewed.
I thought the lens was F 0.95? The links go to a F 2.8 lens.
Interesting. About 8-10 years ago, it was somewhat of a fad to create a Noctilux 50/0.95 knock off, and there were at least three other prior attempts, two of which I tested. The best known amongst them was made by Mitakon Zhongyi. It was OK, especially their second version, but it felt a little flat. Voigtlander makes a really good Nokton 50mm f/1 lens that is much sharper than the Nocti and better corrected, but it is a clinically good modern lens with a scratchy bokeh. It is not LSD-compatible with the Nocti in terms of reproducing all the color fringing, LOCA / LACA, etc. the Nocti generates. So if the artistic rendering is what you're looking for, the CV is probably not the answer. So to clarify, is the Brighton Star's claim to fame that it renders like the Nocti? Thank you for your insights.
I always learn from watching your videos. Thank you!
So kind of you to say. Thanks.
Hi.
Love the lens and your vid !!
Is there any way I could mount it in a Fuji camera ?
Thank you
The Brightin Star webpage for the lens shows it mounted on a Fujifilm X-T3.
@@foblivio They don't have an option for XF mount for the 0.95 lens, at least on amazon
Interesting review. I am tempted to get one for the L-mount. However on Amazon, I have noticed the reviews have not been good. Have you paired this with the s5ii or S5iix?
I have not, I do have an S5 II, but the lens I have is E mount, and I used it on my A7IV. In theory, the 33mp sensor in the Sony should be more demanding than the Panasonic. You should be able to look at the samples in this video and get a pretty clear idea of what to expect.
Get 7artisan 50mm f1.05
7Artisans, Brightin Star, Zhongyi, Laowa make some decent manual f.095 lense for reasonable prices.
They sure do.
Thanks for sharing!!
Very interesting lens. I am eager to try it out. Hope I will get a chance soon! Also, a very well-done video, thank you.
Currently, my favorite lens is a vintage 50mm f/1.4. But I would really like it to be a bit faster for low-light conditions.
As awesome as this looks it doesn’t meet the main requirement of having an M mount version. Shame they don’t have an M mount version as that would make it become a real alternative to the noctilux for m mount users
Yes, 7Artisans make a similar lens in M mount, I'm going to try to get one for testing.
If I'm to buy one single 50mm prime for Sony A7 III under $800 would this be the one you recommend? If not, which?
The 55mm Zeiss for Sony is my favourite lens of all time, of all focal lengths or price.
I need some help. This might not be the correct video, but I don’t understand. New Canon R cameras do not support 3rd party lenses. So, if i buy a lens like this. Will it not work? Sorry
Hi there,
Thanks for your inquiry. Please note all of our lenses are manual focus lenses, which means we need to adjust the lens manually instead of autofocusing. Canon's authorization limits are for RF mount autofocus lens electrical signal transmission protocol, not for manual focus lenses. Because the MF lens will not have lens contact.
Please feel free to use it. :)
thank u for sharing this. very intriguing.
is this available for micro 4/3rds
No, but this one is - ruclips.net/video/T2Qx2pdphFk/видео.html
I have two Noctilux lenses and this lens does not look like them, at all. However, it looks like a fun little lens in its own right. I have the 0.95 and 1.0 and this lens differs from the real ones as much as they differ from each other.
Important tech question: how many degree is the twist to focus from close to infinity? Without the +270 degree twist, people will miss the focus every time
The Noctilux is not for me because I use the lens hood to protect my lenses. If the lens hood retracts easily, it's not a protection any more.
Your thumbnail pictur is beautiful!
Thank you.
Hi Mark,
I follow your channel for quite some time already and your reviews are really cool!
But one thing I was wondering for some time , do you have a specific reason why you never write the lens brand names on your video titles or video descriptions?
For more views. Great strategy
Yes, as the other comments have said, it's a views strategy. I really want people to know about these budget lens options, that are so incredibly good, and this seems to be the best way to introduce people to them.
I have a Zoom q2n 4k video recorder. The stock lens sucks and is grainy in low light. Worst complaint about the camera. So I had to cut away the plastic shroud around the lens and put in an m12 f0.95 lens into it. I got the lens on Amazon for like $20. No ir filter though. But anyway the camera is great in low light now. I have found using it for macro and close up stuff is awesome. Better than any macro lenses out there almost.
Is this lense available for Leica M-Mount?
No, L Mount, but not M.
Thanks for the video! Is this glass something similar to the 7Artisan 50mm f0.95 or TTArtisan f1.2?
I tried all of the overseas lenses. The best one by far imho is the 45mm Venus Optics 0.95 it also happens to be the most expensive too. But I use mine so often for artsy shots the price was justified. I even bought the 35mm version.
@@bailey.nt86 uh, nice to hear that, I might have a look at that one too!
It's a totally different lens, but they are basically doing the same thing. Trying to make an affordable Noctilux.
Best / sharpest lens in every way? The 55 macro- nikon. Still made..
Cool review! Although I’m reading a lot of bad reputation with build quality and focus ring braking…
Is this lens comparable to the Helios 44-2?
In general, optically, this is superior, but ultimately these choices are more personal preference.
Wish this came in M mount so I can use it on both my Leica M10 and M10 Monochrom as well as my Leica SL. I love character lenses, the imperfections sparks my creativity in a different way that modern perfect apochromatic lenses can’t.
I’m definitely buying this for my SL.
I used the Amazon link you provided for Sony. Made the purchase and hopefully you will eventually receive compensation. There a note to set the camera to "release without lens" mode. I have the Sony A7IV. Do you know where the setting is located?
Thank you. I am away from my studio and don’t have the camera with me. The Sony menus, although improved, are still a maze, I can’t recall the location of the setting. Try googling it, I often find the answer that way.
Hey!! Where are you based? I was just watching this review and noticed what I thought was S. Haven pier, which piqued my interest. Then I saw a photo of Captain Lou’s in SH, a restaurant owned by my step-son. Interesting. Are you in SH? We live in Kalamazoo.
How do the ttartisan t1.05 lenses compare to this?!? This looks bonkers (in a positive way 😅)
The main thing is that this is full frame, the T1.05 lenses are APS-C. I love the look out of those cine lenses, if you are shooting on an APS-C camera.
Best observation ever…
One group just making ‘art’.
The other group pixel peeping and looking for faults.
Feels like a life lesson, but I am a little drunk right now. 😀😁😅
I was probably in the same state when I came up with it ;-)
How nuts is it that they don't make it for DSLR?! So frustrating for those of us with great slightly older equipment.
I would prefer 50mm 1.2 of the brand you use, plus you have autofocus
Probably cause of flange distance. Making a 0.95 lens for a camera with a mirror is hard, if not impossible. That’s why Leica/canon rangefinders were the only ones with 0.95 lenses for a very long time
Lens will be bigger and heavier. Mirroless made it possible to have smaller lens for same spec.
Mirrorless is technically better in every single way. There's no way they're going to spend millions upon millions to produce for a lens that's made for a market in decline since 2014. Almost ten years ago. I think it might be time to move on. Even a cheap mirrorless camera is now producing ridiculously high quality and features over many of the pro DSLRs from yesteryear
Unfortunately, DSLR’s are essentially a dead technology, so manufacturers are generally not going to pour money into making a lens for a market that is shrinking.
I'm not sure if they ship worldwide, but 7Artisans make a few M-mount lenses. I've got a few for my Sony and they are beautiful for the price.
Aha!Our main overseas warehouse is located in the U.S., but if you're willing to accept a higher shipping cost, we can ship anywhere in the world!
This 50 .95 has become my favorite nifty fifty even though it weighs a million lbs.
Spot on common sense stuff. Thank you
The very best f/0.95 lens is the Nikon Z 58 mm f/0,95 S NOCT - it is optically perfect, but the price tag is as crazy as of the Leica Noctilux. All other f/0.95 lenses have many optical flaws and they are quite soft at the widest apperture settings. I also think that the TTartisan 50mm f/0.95 and Laowa Argus 45mm f/0.95 are optically better than the Brightin Star.
not for M Mount?
Seems not, from my findings.
I'll make do with my TT Artisans 50mm f0.95 ... Cheap, well made, great image quality, and I get to keep a few grand in the back, or spend a few more pounds and get the TT artisans 35mm f0.95 to go with it.
Tempting. But the negative comments lead me to believe that quality control may be an issue. Not willing to bet almost $400 on that.
ooh, didn't realize you were in western MI
love the shots of Holland
Yeah, only for one week. Love that area so much, wish I had more time there. I live in Australia.
@@markwiemels oh gotcha! I finally made it over to the New Holland brewpub recently and was pretty impressed by the area.
❤ I will try to get one 😊
If they made this for some film mounts it’d probably sell out the window.
Adapt it to other cameras. $20 adapter and you are all set.
It’s close to 800 usd in Australia sadly
Yeah, that's a bummer.
Can’t get hold of this lens anywhere for the UK.
bummer.
I tried them all.. Leikas.. nikons... both manual focus only and the sharpnes lags crazy...
I have the fuji 50mm f1.0 THAT is a beauty of a lens 👌🏻👌🏻 very sharp.. beautiful out of focus areas and awesome build quality.. yess its not cheap but out of ALL the 0.95 or 1.0 its the best in my opinion and i had them side by side in comparison..
Try it if You get Your hands on 👊🏻
Might be able to get Fuji to loan me one, once I get to about 1 million subscribers. ;-) seriously though, I hope to try that lens one day.
@@markwiemels its a absolut treat.. i began shooting things i never would shoot otherwise.. i mean as example a simple lightpole in upcoming sun.. looks stuning with f1.0
I can only recommend it :) and the sharpness is very fine but not clinical like with the macro honestly i never used my 50mmf2 again also becouse on the xh2 the f1.0 isnt that bulky
I press thumbs You get Your hands on that Lens somwhen :)
Ilike the Canon FD 55mm 1.2 more in terms of the picture you have out of it :)
Shutter angle on camera B + C : Great
Shutter angle on camera A : We don't talk about it
I guess the Noctilus is a rebranded Bright Star with a Leica logo then...
In terms ofbuse.. for photo it might be good but for video nah... usually shoot at f4 and for low light.. we dont do what amteurs do, who rely on low light lenses and camera. The solution for low light is to use light
Some Doc filmmakers use natural light for their entire video.
New Holland Spirits! Welcome to West Michigan.
Love that place. Back home in Australia now, which I could teleport back for one last drink.
I have a Mikaton Speedmaster and a Sony GM 50mm f/1.2; and I swear that 1.2 does everything the Speedmaster does, including light capture. New lens tech might achieve the light transmission of 1.2 equal to what the old 0.95 did a decade ago.
It’s a complicated subject, but if that’s what you’re seeing, you’re probably right. They are few factors involved, including how accurate the f0.95 was to begin with, and the type and design of the glass eliminates can actually decrease light transmission, compared to another lens.
How long do I have to sit and listen to you without knowing what lens you are talking about?
I have the 7artisans APS-C version. $200.
Amazing video! although I don't like that look lol that background is unrecognizable, f1.8 - 2.8 is really just good enough for me.
Yes, the value of the 0.95 really come into play when the subject is some distance from the camera. You can still isolate the subject, and the blur would be similar to what you might get at f2.8 in a close up shot.
@@markwiemels I see yeah your right flexibility will come to play there getting enough shallow depth of field even with far from camera subjects. But then would it look like a wide prime in its highest aperture like f1.4 being close to the subject? Or maybe with less distortion on 50mm? This is really an interesting topic I wish to see some tests some time.
It is always great to look at the results in terms of feelings, great lens. But why splitting photographers in two? Some people spend way more than the price of a noctilux on options for their car or bike, and they can always buy/sell the lens second hand, enjoy the glass in the meantime, and not spend that much at the end don’t you think? (and actually make a buck or two in the process ;) )
Yes, someone could totally do that, agree. I still think most people would not put 13K on the line for a camera lens, but might be willing to try a lens for $388.
Who in their right mind would spend that much on a lens? Well Pro's like me for a start - if I did a quick count around the studio in various drawers and on various cameras I would say theres probably £300-350K - poss more - I think the most expensive one we bought (at the time) was a Schneider Kreuznach zoom for our Hass 500 - I still have that one - we still rock a 6mm Nikon from the 80's which then cost 12k? And then theres some of our Sinar LF lenses which I cannot even remember how much they were. I am exactly the sort of person which would buy the 12K lens and not the cheap copy. We have had cheap copies in the past and they just won't cut the Pro custard.
For sure this is to give amateurs, and the less fortunate, a taste of this type of lens. Although I have no doubt that a pro could still use this lens to great effect, it’s not the target market.
@@markwiemels I understand completely of course but you asked the question so I thought I would answer it - and with some context - I have bought in the past like many other Pro's and amateurs alike - hundreds and hundreds of different lenses and cameras - some purely for vanity - some I have kept and some get moved on - in fact I have passed many on to hobbyists and enthusiastic amateurs alike - mostly for free - because they will always make more use of them than I ever will - when I ran the largest agency in the Southwest - we had dozens of photographers coming to us - mostly weekend people who were actually better at their picture making than we could ever hope to be - not all - but certainly some - we are busy working and they are busy crafting their skill!!! - Good stuff. Keep on shooting people.
@@nelsonclub7722 yea, that’s good insight, thanks for sharing!
@@markwiemels Addendum I have just remembered I gave a student a modded Sony something or other which I had converted to Infrared for a particular shoot - she had absolute delight on her face when I presented her with a camera - a Manfrotto tripod I had been given by Manfrotto (25th anniversary edition) and a couple of Zeiss Loxia's - which I found to be a bit fiddly - it is about giving back sometimes - I always try to support anyone on the periphery of the industry - as has been seen time and time again some can even end up working with you. Just going over your video story again - I do think they missed a trick not making it Leica M compatible - good stuff
@nelsonclub7722 good story. Yes, would have had been nice to have an M mount option, agree.
An meinem 35mm ist keine Geli dran
these chinese lens manufacturers like ttartisan and these guys for example sometimes manage to make lenses on par with zeiss and leica due to having vintage design
Was not expecting to see South Haven in this lol
It's a known hot spot for B-grade RUclipsrs. ;-)
@@markwiemels I'm located right outside of town. I'm a digital cinematography student at Full Sail University. I'll have to take my gear out there sometime. My set up is just pretty hefty and a lot to transport LOL
@@Im_Derivative It's a great spot. Have a coffee at Snake Oil Roasters and tell them I said hello, they know me well. I live in Australia, so only get there once a year.
@@markwiemels Will do!
If only ot was vailable on M mount
So i love cheap lenses. I was collecting M42s from thrift shops before IG discovered Helios. I've also got a new Micke that's given me pause because I'm about 80% is a dupe for a mid-century lens. Then there's this one that's a dupe for a Noctilux, there's apparently a 7 Artisans that is also a dupe. But here's the thing- there is an huge issue with IP theft currently. Reverse engineering a lens is tough, just happening to make the same lens is unlikely. Sure $400 lenses are tempting but what exactly is the design and development process here?
It is a significantly different optical design. I think they essentially were reveres engineering the image and specs, but the optics are quite different. One is 8 elements in 5 groups, the other is 10 in 9. As a side note, I'm working on a series about vintage lenses now.
Please don't call me the average Joe!
This mated with an A7s III................
To be fair, pretty much no one takes any lens out to go shoot test charts or other lab tests for a lens outside a review. I think people have got it in their heads that if something doesn't perform perfect and to the point of being sterile in a lab setting, that it's worthless garbage. All they see are influencers and blogs putting out a dozen near identical images talking about corner sharpness at max aperture, and they don't see that maybe at the end of the post there are a few sample images of photos taken for the same of just being photos and not tests.
This mentality has kind of ruined the favor of a lot of fantastic gear over the years. If it doesn't perform perfect at 6400 ISO against a test chart, it's trash. That's where you get the "if it's not full frame, it's trash" sentiments. Meanwhile, you can get fantastic images with a digicam if you know what you're doing and have experience going out and actually taking photos rather than ranting on forums about spec sheets and lab shots. At this point, my most used bodies in my kit are actually old MFT bodies (Olympus E-P5/E-M5 Mark II and Panasonic GX8) and a couple Pentax cameras (KP and K-1.II, so APS-C and then full frame when I really need it, which is less and less with how amazing the KP is with higher ISO, and I'm REALLY close to selling it off for a lens or two).
It’s also not great for new photographers, trying to operate on a budget. They pass up some great affordable gear, and spend more than they need too, on lenses that take great test chart images.
Its missing the M MOUNT. Its useless to compare it when you cant use it on an M mount.
That's a NON STARTER argument. I have a $13,000 pencil that I'll sell you cheap. That lens is worth maybe $800 retail. It's not even a cinema lens.
...or you could get a 'cheap' Chinese knock-off like the Mitakon Speedmaster f0.95 -which comes in a variety of mounts including the Canon RF mount...
It's not about shooting a 50 f1. It's about owning the original. You can wear a Davosa instead of a Rolex Sub. But still it's not about that.
That's a fair comment, and certainly one perspective. There are some people that just want to take cool photos too.
Who's really going to use that shallow depth of field? So you're really just going to get one eyeball in focus that's closest to you I suppose.
Environmental portraits. You can take a shot of someone from like 15-20 feet away and still have a good amount if background separation combined with a wider field of view. It's a unique look similar to what you can get with medium format.
Yes, when you are close to someone, the one eye in focus is exactly what happens, but as you move away the DOF becomes less shallow, but you can still blur the background, like the other commenter has said.
Too bad it doesn't come in an EF mount.
85mm f1.4 ftw
Interesting 🤔
Out of stock for sony model
Yes, it's been pretty popular.