Installation of a Residential Water Pressure Regulator
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- Опубликовано: 18 апр 2021
- High water pressure can be really tough on fixtures like faucets and hose spigots. Join me as I take care of that problem by installing a water pressure regulator.
Get that water turned off before you start:
• Turn off Your Water
teach2build
Thank you so much for this great video, now I can do the job with confidence!
Personally, I would sweat the copper before I attached the PRV to ensure the heat would not damage it.
Great demonstration! Some youtube plumbers use an expansion tank on top of the hot water tank to go along the PRV valve. I guess some PRVs do not required them, and why the extreme price variance? Our plumber quoted over $500 just for the PRV part. Looking online at Grainger and Ferguson plumbing supplies it seems you can get a lot cheaper one with screens. I am not a plumber. Just trying to help my sister figure this out so she can get a good job and save money.
Hey Enoch Page! Plumbers have a markup, usually 30 percent but I've seen MUCH higher, which prob explains most of the price difference. Expansion tanks are a good idea and are required by many local codes departments. I always install them with any new (tank) water heater install I do. Best of luck for you and your sister!
Thanks for the video. If both sides of the copper pipe are fixed and you cannot slide them back and forth, how can you put this in the middle? Or do you have to use different fittings? Thank you.
Hello! You would use a slide coupler, which is a coupler with no internal 'stop'. You flux everything, slide the couple all the way onto one side, then back halfway onto the other side, and solder away. There's also a Sharkbite fitting you can use called a slip or repair fitting. Best of luck!
@@Teach2Build Thank you. Makes sense.
So, pre-assemble everything, do a dry fit to make sure....it fits, and while dry fitted together then solder the fittings to the pipe? Is that the right order of things? Thx
After doing a dry fit to assure everything's right, disassemble and apply flux everywhere, reassemble, then solder. Have fun!
@@Teach2Build Thank you very much indeed. Very much appreciated. Going to put mine in a valve box in the front near the garage. I think the reduction from the high main line pressure will eventually save us some money. Let alone the peace of mind that the interior water fixtures are not under such high pressure strain.
@@Teach2Build A follow-up question if I may: How is it that the pipe sealant on the 2 threaded copper fittings is not damaged by the torch heat while soldering? I'm sure it's a real newbie q. Thx again.
I don't assemble anything requiring thread sealant until soldering is done.
Great video for 3/4" copper & Pex, however I have a 1" PVC for my main water supply coming into the house. Do I need a PRV with 1" connections? Or do I use a PRV with 3/4" connections and reduce my 1" PVC pipe to 3/4" copper?
Hey Penny! PRVs with 1" connections are available. I would avoid reducing the size until absolutely necessary. A quick search online should find you what you need. Best of luck!
@@Teach2Build Thanks so much for quick reply! I suspected reducing my main line pipe before the PRV was not a good idea, but that is how it was done before I bought the house. The reduction starts about 2 feet before the PRV, with a shut off valve in the middle of it. What kind of problems arise with my set-up? I do have fluctuations with psi up to 120; could this be the reason for the fluctuations?
Pressure variations of small amounts are most likely related to varying pressure from the street. Larger swings in pressure may very well be the prv, even though they usually just die altogether, shooting the pressure up. Reducing the line size to 3/4" isn't the end of the world, just not ideal.
@@Teach2Build Thanks again for the info! I just subscribed; I am also researching if check valves are needed on a hot water circulating pump with a dedicated return line.
Thx for subscribing! You will still want to use a check valve, even with a dedicated return line, as the flow could possibly reverse if the circulating pump stops, or fails internally. Do that research, and you'll get the right answer for your circumstances. Take care!
My main shut off ball valve is inside the wall with a little door to access it. Once I cut away the sheet rock to install and adjust one of these PRV's can I then sheet rock over it, or does it also need an access door?
Code requires accessibility. You can purchase an access panel from your local big box store and use it to determine the size of your hole. They can be painted to match the wall. I prefer the spring loaded versions but the versions with a frame and snap in panel work fine, as well. Best of luck on your project!
I have a problem with my tankless water heater. I feel it doesn't heat the water as much as I would like. I adjust the water passage key to have less water coming and that helps a little bit. Do you think installing a water pressure regulator would help my water to get warmer?
Hard to say but I would guess not. There are so many variables that can affect a tankless! Reducing water flow, as you did by partially closing the shutoff, helps a little because the heater doesn't have to heat as much water in the same time frame. Things like whether it's electric (yikes) or gas (yay!), incoming water temperature, if it's mounted indoors or outside, on and on. It may even need repair internally, which is not really a DIY task. Sorry I don't have better news!
Is it possible there might be too much pressure on the PEX tubing prior to the regulator that would cause issues down the road?
I believe PEX is rated for 160psi at 73° so it would take a pretty serious issue, which your water company would be responsible for...
Thank you
how do you troubleshoot or diagnose if I have a faucet on and then flush the toilet I lose all water pressure and flow. do I need to adjust or the PRV, or should I replace it? my home is 3 years old.
3 years is pretty young for a prv to go out. I would screw a pressure guage onto a hose spigot and see if it's low. If it is, double check to make sure your main valve is all the way open, then check the adjustments on the prv. If this has always been the way it is, it could also be related to the supply line plumbing in the wall. Best of luck!
@Teach2Build this has been ongoing for the last two years and progressively getting worse. I will definitely test the pressure and adjust as needed. I will keep you posted. Thank you sir. 🤙🍻
Is this the same thing as a water pressure reducing "valve"
Yes, that's how it commonly gets implemented.
The one i have just after the meter is frozen and will not adjust. Can i put a new one further up the main line past the one that is frozen? It would be easier than cutting the old one out.
It would depend on if, in it's failure, it's restricting flow or not. Best practice would be to replace it as it could fail later in a way that restricts flow, but if it's not currently restricting for, the argument could be made that you could just add one after it, yes.
@@Teach2Build Its not restricting the flow and not leaking. The pressure is a bit too high at 80 psi and I want it to be about 55 psi. Thanks for your quick response.
Thanks so much for this informative video. It seems the only thing that you didn't show was how to solder the copper piping.
Testing the water pressure at a silcock in my home it is 100 psi so I will need a PRV. My question is, am I responsibile to have one installed or is the city responsible? Miraculously enough, it doesn't look like there are any leaks or damages to my 30+ year-old poly-B plumbing. Is the city responsible if my pipes break because they turned up the pressure to 100 psi?
Can you use it to increase pressure ?
I'm afraid not. It sets a maximum. Now I've had them go bad and it was restricting pressure, so there was an increase in pressure with the new one in place, but that's not always the case. You may need a booster pump if your water pressure is below around 50psi. Best of luck with your project!
Can anyone tell me why we cannot just turn down the pressure outside before it gets to the House? Seems much simpler than having to pay extra for both the valve and installing it?
You can, if the valve is still operational. My experience has been that of the pressure increases, the valve has failed as it acts like a gate, reducing the pressure, regardless of the incoming pressure, so if the pressure jumps in the house, it's because the valve has failed.
@@Teach2Build thank you for that info. I've been sold a story it seems.
It could still need to be replaced
@@Teach2Build yes, it's possible, but it wasn't even checked or mentioned.
Mine was leaking by the o ring, replaced the o ring, still dripping
A couple things could be the problem. There might be debris on the o-ring seating surface, or the o-ring might have a nick in it, or is the wrong size or diameter. Hang in there. You'll fix it.
Could you tell me if is it acceptable to place the regulator before the main shut-off valve on the supply line? The current one is 40 years old and between the valve and house entrance in a way I dont trust anyone trying to remove it, but there is fresh copper in the three feet before the main valve I could put it at....
You would actually need to talk to your water company as they own the line up to the meter. If you're talking about a section after the meter but before your home, go for it. Best of luck with your project!
@@Teach2Build Ok so today I put the new ball valve/ PRV combo into the line! Could you help me with this question too please - So I removed the union (single union PRV) since I was connecting that side with a 1" brass nipple straight to the new ball valve; and with the water turned on I am getting a little moisture on that non-unioned side of the joint. Is this because I do need that union? I'm also pretty sure I've tightened it all I should. Unless using teflon tape only on the threads is a bad idea.. what would you suggest I try next? Thanks!
You may need to use some rectorseal on those threads as well. Mixing adapters can be tricky. Best of luck!
@@Teach2Build Much thanks! I will get that seal tomorrow- I just tried adding the union but it still leaks out the exact same threaded section. I'm going to replace the nipple with one that has more area to grab with a wrench too... Pray for me :0
@@Teach2Build To clarify, rectorseal is something I use alone, not in conjunction with threaded teflon....
enjoyed the video. I payed 200 dollars for my.
5:43 what is that piece called?
The adapter that converts to copper?
Yes because I want to buy 2 on amazon
I don't think I've ever seen the adapters for the pressure regulator available separately. Best of luck!
$34? Just checked home depot sells them for 175
In filming this series, I did try to avoid mentioning pricing, as I knew it would change over time, but sometimes I forgot. They were, in fact, $34 back then (2012). Should they have gone up 500% in ten years? No. Best of luck on your project.
I'm pretty sure I can't just slide the pip[es around in my house the way you are doing. This video is poorly done and misleading. The only thing it does a good job of is showing why you should never install this on a pex line.
Couldn't disagree more. Best of luck on your projects.
Your wrong Maga Man
Maga man is right!