BMW 330e - how to replace both 12V batteries (on F30 model)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Replacing both 12V batteries on BMW 330e (F30 - 2016 model) - including programming new battery with ISTA software. I've recorded most of the procedure - except the actual replacing of the rear battery, as it was getting dark by then - however I've explained what's involved, so you should be able to do this bit on your own with no problem. Last part is programming the fact of replacing battery, so that the ECU is aware of the replacement and can alter charging accordingly (yes, apparently it is as advanced) - this step will prevent overcharging new battery and possible damage that could otherwise occur.
As always, if there is anything that seems unclear, or you want to ask anything - fire away, leave a comment and I'll try to get back to you as soon as possible.
PS: Due to many people asking, here's the batteries used details:
Napa 202N CCA350 40Ah 12V (smaller battery under the bonnet)
link for specs here: www.kwik-fit.c...
Napa AGM096N CCA760 70Ah 12V (main, larger battery in the boot)
link for specs here: www.kwik-fit.c...
Amazon link to an ISTA / INPA cable: amzn.to/3zsBzpL
#SignumMotors #RepairsAndRestoration #BMW330e 
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Jesus how things have changed. All the same, thanks for the effort much appreciated.
Cars changed massively, more and more you're using the diagnostic device alongside or instead of spanners or meters. That's why I love aircooled Beetles so much. Nice and simple.
Thanks for this video. I will never buy this headache car.
I remember my first car. Open bonnet. Swap battery. Close bonnet. 5 minutes. Job done.
May i ask my 330e m sport 2017 Max eDrive not available even i have fully charged , Do i need to replace the battery under the bonnet to make it work again ?
Battery that’s on the way out (in terms of the ECU’s knowledge) can throw multitude of random faults, that sometimes don’t seem like a battery problem, but since it’s known for that, yes, it can be the case. Saying that, two ‘dead’ batteries from my 330e are still going strong year after they were decommissioned - one in my trusty T4 - withstanding being left unused three months at a time, other one just revived Vauxhall Tigra after its been sitting without charging for almost a year. How’s that for ‘no good’ batteries?
Hey cool video ! For what is the front battery and for what is the rear one ?
Hello there! Funny you should ask that, as we've had a debate over that. To me - and I stand to be corrected - the battery in the boot is the main battery as we would understand it in 'normal cars'. Operating lights, starter, fans, etc. Battery in the front is to operate all electronics, ECUs, but also to control the charging module and battery operation / ECUs. At least to my knowledge, as some people suggested that the front battery operates the starter, etc. To me, that would be a little insane, as with a stop start system you need an AGM battery to survive this stupidity, hence the boot battery is an AGM, front one is a 'leisure' type, low power, hence to me it is suppose to deal with low drain elements connected to it, to avoid voltage drops and jumps in the main battery system is separated into two. That's my take on it anyway.
@@signummotors I got a p1aa5 code on my activehybrid 3 saying that the starter unit battery aged but i can't tell if this 'starter battery' is the aux battery aka the front one in your car, or the regular battery. Any thoughts?
@excalibur2019 starter battery (and there was a debate here on this) is the one in the boot, AGM high capacity to accommodate start / stop. However random codes and problems with electronic part of the car could be initiated by the small battery under the bonnet. Since both batteries are installed at the same time, if one’s aged, you will find the other one will go soon as well. For the peace of mind I’d replace both at the same time, saves you headaches in the long run, it’s a premium car so costs will be higher too, but by replacing just one you’re risking some problems to come back or appear due to that, to me that’s not worth the hassle. I’d replace both.
Thnx, really helpful video especially for 330e with lack of info around! Do you use icom or cheap ethernet yellow/black wire to connect through ista?
I've used the ENET cable (OBD to Ethernet), readily available on the internet, it is the cheap option in this case and it's linked to ISTA, but I went for a posh cable among the cheap ones. It's no complicated electronics there, providing the cheap one is well enough made, it will do the job.
what battery did you put in and where did you get it from?
I bought them from local motor factors, FMP - they're dealing with NAPA products and that's what I used.
- Napa 202N CCA350 40Ah 12V (smaller battery under the bonnet)
link for specs here: www.kwik-fit.com/batteries/search/details/202#
- Napa AGM096N CCA760 70Ah 12V (main, larger battery in the boot)
link for specs here: www.kwik-fit.com/batteries/search/details/agm096
I've added those details to the description.
Thanks, nice video. One thing is for sure, these modern cars have become incredibly complicated. A battery change used to be a simple 5 minute job. Now, there are 2 or sometimes more batteries, plastic cladding everywhere, battery management systems to deal with. All necessary and great improvements for sure, but the DIY home mechanic has almost entirely become a thing of the past. :(
Aye, couldn't be more accurate there. It's not just DIYers, garages are failing to catch up with technology, you are forced more and more to work with a laptop or a diagnostic machine, old school mechanics can't be bothered, but it means they are getting only certain jobs and are slowly becoming 'obsolete', whereas the new crowd of so called 'mechanics' are just part fitters, not really know the thought process behind the repair, just blindly connecting car to the reader and replacing the parts machine told them to, never mind they will not fix the problem, but they charge for all unsuccessful fixes and never get anywhere. You need the skill, tools, technology and most of all - the brain. The latter becomes rather rare nowadays.
@@signummotors Yes, exactly, computers are slowly but surely starting to replace humans in lots of ways. Were told it’s for the better, but I’m not so sure that’s true. 😮
Many thanks, what software should i use to read the car codes please.
There's loads of choices, you can get a cable on sites like eBay, that will most likely come with a link or CD with ISTA - same software I've used here, but you can also use most diagnostic machines if you've got one available, there are even things you can get for your phone, like Bimmercode (expensive though) - this one will allow you to do a lot more, as you can code extra options and things not normally accessible on BMW - and you only need the software, Bluetooth dongle (double check which one will work) and your phone or tablet.
Hi Mate, thanks for the Video the link for the Aux Battery is not suitable for Start-Stop vehicles as advised by Quick Fit, as my Max eDrive is not available but the car battery is fully charged. can you please advise?
To start with, it all depends who you meet at Quick Fit - it's like comparing McDonalds to a three star Michelin restaurant. There are good ones and bad ones, there are people who can't be bothered to learn new things there and ones that excell, although if someone's really good at mechanics, he will either have his own garage or will work somewhere where they pay a little more money than them - just my take on the topic, as that particular franchise destroyed my wife's car years ago and done nothing about it.
Please double check this, as I've had this discussion here earlier, but to me - the smaller auxiliary battery that sits under the bonnet has nothing to do with starting the car. Not sure where does that concept stems from, but if you think about it, BMW and Mercedes always had main battery in the boot and that was the battery operating the starter motor, etc. Auxiliary battery is there only to control modules, in this case (my understanding) it's larger, due to the fact that apart from keeping up with all body control modules / ECUs, it also controls the charging part, hence need for more power than a smaller battery as used for instance on Mercedes. In Mercedes you've had that type of setup for quite some time with auxiliaty battery under the bonnet (smaller, motorcycle battery really) and normal battery in the boot. That would also make sense, as the battery in the boot is an AGM, which is a must on any car with start/stop stupidity fitted, even more pointing down to this battery operating starting system, fuel pumps, lights, etc. I know it's painful, but if both batteries are the same age, I would recommend changing both, not just one, as it can cause further problems despite spending money on one of them. The smaller battery can also cause loads of issues, as it provides stable power supply to the crucial car's electronics. Larger battery on the other hand (boot) can influence many modules as well, as we know from plethora of problems on older BMWs that only had one battery - but that battery when deteriorating could cause faults that would never point to the battery directly. The whole car is based around electronics, so most important thing on this contraption is to make sure it's got steady power supply, so alternator's faults, battery problems will have a lot more signifiicant effect on the car as a whole. Just to clarify, these were the batteries I've fitted to the car, reset the battery settings and all systems were functioning absolutely fine afterwards with these onboard. Always double check this, as BMW could change the battery type - verify that with the dealer, not necessarily to buy it from them, but to check what their system specifies for your car. Also, check in few places to see what they say and how the prices compare. You might be surprised. Hope this helps.
Hi. Why did you replace both? Just curious to know if id have to do both too? My 2018 330e had a few drivetrain error messages pop up & go and then a week later isnt going into e drive anymore. What battery needs replacing?
The aux battery is just for starting the engine. Your problem could be even a problem with the high voltage system. I have 2018 330e as well. One from the five high voltage battery modules is dead in my car. Technically it is not, but it started to disengage the max edrive a few weeks ago from 20% than 30% now it sometimes drops it at 60%. Once a got a bunch of error drive train error messages as well, which came from the automatic transmission. I guess because of the problem of the high voltage system. If you car under 100K kilometers then the high voltage battery under warranty. I recommend to go a BMW mechanic and ask for a diagnostics. I recommend as well to go with an empty HV battery. I went there and they found no problem (and I had to pay the diagnostics). A days later I checked it myself with ISTA and the error was there. It realized that the ISTA says the battery needs to be changed only when the high voltage battery is almost empty. It checks the voltages of the individual cells and if there is too big difference between them displays a fault....but it is just a "virtual" fault, it is not registered in any module inside the car.
You should really replace both at the same time, as since they were installed and both age in a similar way, they can both be affected in time with temperature, heat, etc. and eventually they will start to degrade. I've replaced both batteries as the little one (auxiliary) can cause all sorts of problems on this car apparently, the one in the boot operates starter motor and all the gadgets on the car. The car itself isn't a successful one if it comes to a hybrid, the battery (high voltage one) is THEORETICALLY under warranty from BMW for seven years, but they'll come out of their way not to diagnose it as faulty or change it. It wasn't a great idea to start with and with time they get worse, it's not the way forward really, mainly created for tax savings and 'green credentials'. Not practical or economical in real life. BMWs are very sensitive to any battery voltage issues, so having two batteries can only cause more problems and if one is starting to fail, it can cause a lot of problems, if not replaced in time - can end up damaging components.
@@signummotors I have different info. The aux battery operates the starter motor, and it is used only for that. It is even separated galvanically from the whole electrical system of the car. The reason that there could be a lot of engine starts and this prevents pulling the voltage of the whole car on each start. On the other hand. I really like my car, I bought it as a new one and my average gasoline consumption is 2.3L per 100 km for 66K kilometers.
@@kardkovacsi That would be 122MPG equivalent, you need your maths double checked as this is not possible in real world, unless you only drive it around town and charging it constantly. But then the consumption is not a real figure, as you're mostly using the electric motor and thus - consume vast amounts of electricity. If you check a website like Fuelly.com (www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/330e) - there's plenty of them there and they average 45-55MPG. In normal use it will do around 6-7 l/100km and on a run will go down to average of 5.2l/100km - and that's on two runs amounting to 4000km average - with five people on board and luggage - so not bad for an automatic car with rather not economical engine. And if you let it charge the EV battery whilst driving, the consumption doubles, so not really a saving.
I'm not saying it's a bad car, my wife loved it, I never did - then again, since she's had a Mercedes - BMW is out of the equation. Especially after the number of problems I've had with them (E53, E60, F11, F30 - older ones like E39, E34 were much more reliable) but Toyota seems to be the only company that actually gets good MPG on their hybrid cars - and most are not plug in, but self charging hybrids. It also depends on the climate, is the area you live flat or loads of hills, etc. Me in my area - I will not bother getting near EVs or hybrids for a long time, hydrogen is the way forward, not sure why LPG never took off massively, as it's relatively green, but that's politics, not technology.
As for the battery - the main battery to my knowledge should operate the starter, hence it's AGM type due to start / stop function. I don't think a 40Ah battery would survive town cycle with stop start on a 2l petrol engine. On Mercedes you'd had similar setup, when a smaller battery would operate all minor consumption systems and keep memory alive on modules, where the main battery in the boot would operate heavier loads, like starter, wipers, lights, etc. I stand to be corrected, but this is from my experience.
@@signummotors "That would be 122MPG equivalent, you need your maths double checked as this is not possible in real world, unless you only drive it around town and charging it constantly." - I use this car as it is supposed to be used and not for tax optimization as a lot of people do. A lot of commuting and a few longer trips. Yes, I charge it twice a day. I have had more than 3800 charging session over 5 years according to ISTA. By the way, on longer trips, the consumption was around 6L which matches with your numbers.
Regarding the small battery. This info came from an official BMW mechanic but your argument is valid also :) It can be checked by disconnecting the aux battery only ans check what happens.
Great video can I ask, how were both faulty? Did one battery affect the other?
Hello there! No, neither was faulty really, in fact, the larger AGM battery is still powering my VW T4, so it's far from bad, but with BMW with the amount of electronics, gadgets, gizmos and systems any fluctuation in the levels of battery power can throw problems at you. Whether it's the smaller battery or the larger one throwing faults, it's hard to establish. You could judge by what is happening, as the small battery is the AUX battery, mainly to keep essential systems alive and probably mainly to accomodate the electric part of the vehicle, but since they're both the same age (or should be at least), if one is slowly starting to fade or fail, the other one will too. Hence I'd rather replace both and have the peace of mind, especially on a car of this value and level of complicated electronics. Also, there is no way to reset individual batteries (battery replacement programming in ISTA or diag software), so I'd presume BMW would do both as well. It's like when you need to replace a wheel bearing or a shock absorber. Normally you'd need to replace only one as it's giving problems, but considering they work as a pair and you will literally feel the difference in case of shock absorbers - I'd just go for both, at least you know when you're still having problems, they are problems, not just ECU's brainfart caused by poor electricity delivery at some stage. Bit lenghty but I hope I got my point across. :)
Well done
Very happy after replying the battery
All hp is back to the beast ✨️
That’s what I mean, something that shouldn’t cause any improvement, did. This battery shouldn’t influence performance, but it controls a lot of modules, in turn causing other issues. Glad it helped! Enjoy your car again!
Can you provide me the link for front auxiliary battery. And do we need to program the front auxiliary battery as well or just the rear one. Thanks for the video
There you go - here's Varta and Lion links - both are type 202.
www.eurocarparts.com/p/varta-blue-202-car-battery-4-year-guarantee-444772022
www.eurocarparts.com/p/lion-202-car-battery-3-year-guarantee-444772021
Thanks again. Does the front one needs to be programmed too?
There’s only one option to program the battery and it’s only the main one, so I’d say - no. I’ve changed both at the same time, this could be the right way of doing it. There was definitely no additional option to program auxiliary battery replacement on its own, so shouldn’t need it.
@@signummotors Auxiliary Battery needs coding. ISTA+ has the option (Register Auxiliary battery) although it doesn't save the mileage or the specs of the battery. Forum with pictures: f30 bimmerpost thread number 1942212
hi,nice video! can u tell me ,how good is this 330e and is it expensive do buy it for 25000Euro - 2017/90 000km M///line
Hello there! 2017 for that money sounds about right when bought from a dealer, as for the car itself - can't fault the car, apart from the battery on ours had low capacity, when dropped off to BMW - they claim they will have it replaced if capacity drops below 70% - after two weeks they've replied that battery doesn't have any problems reported, when questioned what capacity is it currently at, they've replied that they would have to do additional tests to establish that, it would take at least a day and I would have to pay for it. They had it for a week, beats me. If the only criteria of replacing the battery under 6 year warranty is in actual percentage, you would assume they will check for faults and then run test to establish capacity as percentage of original capacity, but that's logic and we're talking dealers... I gave up, but battery should be guaranteed to be replaced should it drop below 70% - how to establish that is another story... Good car to drive though, can't fault it in that department. MPG figures are a joke though, speaking from experience. Best regenerative charging is normally achieved in COMFORT mode and don't bother with SAVE mode, as this is using twice as much fuel to recharge the battery - switch it on, watch MPG and never switch it again, unless you want to recharge it quickly... ECO PRO apart from Greta inspired name is useless.
@@signummotors ty,God bless
Where can I find the replacement battery
Any motor factors or parts shop, depending on your location - online should be loads available.
@@signummotors thank you, I ended up getting one from BMW
So no coding for the small battery?
There was no separate option for the auxiliary battery, I'd presume both were supposed to be replaced at the same time, also due to the reduced load and slow charging rate of this battery I don't think it needs to be regulated as much as the main battery.
How did you get the plastic clip out thatholds the battery in ? I'm struggling and nearly snapping the screw driver. Thanks
Try to move it by pushing screwdriver next to battery and pry it a little that way, it's not very logical in all fairness, even after I've done it, it did not operate in a way I would expect - see further in the video after the battery is out, you can see the 'mechanism' exposed, as said, there's really minimal movement - it will move a bit, then you have to push the battery away from it and pull the battery out. It's not something that you'd expect, it's not moving as much and it's really awkward to get at.
@@signummotors finally got the battery out ! I jammed a screwdriver in the hole the bolt goes through and started twisting and pushing and pulling and hen there was movement with the battery so i was able to change it and now my drivetrain light has been fixed. Thanks for your video mate much appreciated 👍
@@wrecklesso9319 Glad I could help.
what OEM battary capacity in trunk on 330e? 90ah?
I've replaced it with Napa AGM096N CCA760 70Ah 12V which had the same specs as the one that came out of it, it was OEM specified.
@@signummotors Thanks
Thank you!
You’re welcome! Glad it helped!
When you registered it that looked like the regular battery in the trunk
It was an AGM battery, as per BMW specs, didn't alter any details when registering as it was the same as the one previously installed BMW branded. That old battery still runs perfect in my old VW T4 as it goes, BMW claimed it needed to be replaced...
@@signummotors but I'm not interested in changing the regular battery I want to know how to register the auxiliary battery
@@kef103 Both were as per specs, there is no separate option for auxiliary or main battery programming, to my knowledge when you want to replace them, you replace both and register that fact. Thinking of it though, you don't need to register an aux battery on its own, since it's not directly charged from the alternator, programming the new main battery lowers the alternator output that was gradually increased as old battery was ageing - registering the replacement prevents overcharging brand new battery, hence the need for programming. If you plan to replace only the aux battery, I'd leave the programming alone. Or just replace both as it should be done, but that's a little expensive. Not mentioning cost of the hybrid battery... :)
Where can I get software to read and reset codes?
Genuine stuff is expensive, but most cables you can buy on eBay come with a link for software or with a CD. You’ll also find plenty on the internet, look on BMW forums.
Hi, what Ah was the rear 12v battery?
Both original and replacement were 70Ah AGM batteries on the one I worked in the video. Hope this helps.
@@signummotors thanks, yeah that helps.
Where are you located my brother? I need my auxiliary battery changed. BMW 330e 2016. Thanks.
Swansea, South Wales - probably not local to most people on this planet. If you Google us, you’ll find us.
@@signummotors I that a b I'm in se London. How much do you charge to change aux battery?
Hi, thanks for the video.
Can you pls help me and advise.
Just had my auxiliary battery changed at an independent specialist BMW garage for my car not going into eDrive mode as the diagnostic was pointing to that also the stop/start doesnt work.
It didn't solve the issue with the installation of a new auxiliary battery.
Today poped in to kwik fit for the AGM battety check, and the chap said its State of Charge is 54% and Cranking Power 72%. They said battery is fine and doesn't necessarily need a new battery for the Stop/start or to impact on the eDrive.
Can you share some of your knowledge?
Thanks
I always suggest to replace both, as they’ve been both installed new at the same time and age at the same rate, hence I’d get them replaced together as well, since they both can cause issues if they start to go bad. And again, given the amount of issues they may cause, most not even suggesting bad battery - I’d get both replaced. As for the status of the battery replaced - the old battery from my wife’s 330e is still going strong in my old T4 without issues, so as much as the battery wasn’t ‚faulty’ as such, the sophisticated BMW system didn’t like it anyway. Hope it will cure the problem, don’t forget to code the new battery in with correct capacity.
@signummotors
Thanks for the reply. I'll try this and reply back here with the outcome.
On a separate note, do you have any idea what this code is about "2228D3 Starter Unit, intelligent battery sensor (IBS) of auxiliary battery: faulty."
Where can I get the part?
@@zahrayusuf1482 It could be caused by the battery itself if it is failing slowly, as this is the problem, battery will not show a code for 'battery faulty, change battery', but will instead come up with tons of random faults, some of them not even suggesting battery problem. On the other hand, it could be a faulty sensor, cannot eliminate that as if there was some mechanical damage, or even a mouse / rat at times gets at your wiring, so I'm afraid there's no easy answer, but fliukes caused by a failing battery are common on this car. Hence I'd get both done at the same time. Hope this helps.