Free Solo Ice Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Route: North Face - variant
Summit: Tour Ronde
Altitude: 3,792m
Difficulty: D
Climber: Jon Murua
Date: 8.12.2019
Extreme alpinist
North Face of Tour Ronde in winter conditions.
Around 200 meters of sustained 50° slope and a middle section of around 150 meters of an ice/mixed gully of up to 65°. The crux is in the middle part with a mixed move of grade M4.
Descent following the former normal route, East Face, on the snow gully of around 45°.
9:15 at Helbronner
12:45 Summit
14:00 Helbronner
Gear used in the route:
Crampons: Petzl Lynx
Boots: Dynafit TLT6
Ice axes: Petzl Nomic with blades Michael Stanley
Harness: Mammut Zephyr Alpine
Skis: Movement Gold Fish X-Series
Gloves: Simond Cascade
Helmet: Camp Armour
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When you go solo, you feel 10 time the emotions, adrenaline always pump, and when you reach the top, is pure magic.
Amazing first north route solo
Chapeau
Well done Jon! A great route. The tricky move seemed to be getting over that first rocky bulge to get established on the route. Thank you for investing the time and energy to make these videos. Much appreciated!!
Hi jon
Thank you for the wonderful film. I congratulate you on climbing the Ronde North Face tour solo!
There are unforgettable memories.
With alpine greetings
Raphael Wellig
Nice climbing...but there still a "new" routes in the Mont Blanc area ?
The "pro"s still find some, but I was informed later that this was a variation
this video is just amazing, espero puedas recuperarte pronto de tu lesión
Great video Jon, My partner & I climbed the Bernezat Spur on Tour Ronde a few years ago, which was nice & quiet. It takes skill & guts to solo the North face in winter. Well done :)
Love the video! The route looks super fun. Must also say you got the most awesome profile picture of any alpinist on RUclips. Suit and nomic is style points.
Haha, thank you for the complement :)
I'm glad you liked the video
Your stoked attitude is so amazing! Great route you did there, respect. keep crushing it
CONGRATS Mr. Murua Very clever!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!
Best Wishes.
It's my dream. Beautiful. You are great.
Love your videos man. Good job 👏🏻
Great video! You are so positive! :)
Amazing work!
Balls of steel
Great job! Good video. Do you have a solo climbing safety gear list you could share, or any other sources you recommend. I’ve done 7 mountains. Nothing like what you’re doing. No ice climbing but I solo’d the last mountain and have all the gear other than ropes and harness. Do you need rope when you go by yourself?
Hi Evan,
I don't have a gear list, it depends a lot on the route. For example, for an easy scramble without glacier crossing, I only take the harness (in case they need to rescue me), but if the route has some technical difficulties, I take gear in case I need to lead solo (basically, a full climbing kit + a Revo or modified Grigri).
I also take the rope in case I need to rappel or do a self rescue somehow.
If I'm crossing a glacier... Some people drag a backpack attached to the other end of the rope. I don't like this option. I hope I won't fall in a crevasse, and if I did, I carry gear to self rescue by aid climbing up the ice (ice screws and microtraxtion).
It's also good to carry some gear to build an anchor in case you need a rest of something goes wrong (you lose a crampon for example).
Cheers!
fantastic climb, looked so fun. why didn't you ski the descent though?
Thank you! There was a rocky section a bit below the summit which was hard to see, so I opted for walking down until the rocks and then ski
Buah chulísimo ,una pregunta qué grosor podía tener esa franja de hielo que se ve tan fina,y casi con el color del granito.Y de cuántos grados hablamos en ese sector👍🏻
Unos 5-10cm. Suficiente para escalar, pero difícil a proteger. La pendiente es de 50° de media con algunos sectores a 60°
Vaya pechada con la nieve profunda... Ya me ha tocado alguna de esas y complica mucho la vida. Con una pendiente de 50-60 la norte "debería" ser un paseo con nevé o al menos buena huella firme.
Lo más frustrante es rascar y rascar hasta que el piolos se quedan de "algo"... Y luego rezar para que no se salgan al tirar.
Buena escalada! (Y la próxima en primavera 🤣)
Qué gran razón tienes!
De hecho me metí pour un canal para evitar pasar por la cara que estaba repleta de nieve. Por algo es famosa esta cara para los esquiadores...
Nice video Jon! Which, and aslo why, Krukonogui blades are you using in your nomic? Thanks in advance! :-D
In that route I used the Michael Stanley Ice picks. I got those forged steel picks for durability.
When the rock is covered on snow, we scratch a lot the picks on the rock to clean the snow and standard picks get damanged very quickly.
@@jonmurua Michael Stanley Ice picks? I do not know those picks and if I google it, I only just find a rock band which that name. Is it a brand or a model of Krukonogi? I'm asking because I just had enough of damage my BD picks so easly. Thank you so much again Jon, I'm waitting for more alpine videos. Regards from the Pyrenees ;-)
@@GuillemBF this is their website: sport-steinle.com
They do similar picks to Krukonogi.
Cheers!
@@jonmurua thank you so much, I really apreciated it! :)
POV you see 3 pixels of scp 096 in the background
How did you get down?
Via the East Face, walking and skiing down
@@jonmurua very Nice and inspiring adventure thankyou
Fantastic adventure! 😁
4
Si hombre si haber si hablas castellano o español que el ingles se te da muy mal colega yes yes tus videos ganarian mas sin estar farfullando he norfeis campochonin chulawuei venga ya joer