Thank you so much for the info. I ended up grinding the clutch shaft off in situ to the face of the inner sheave. I will likely remove the rest of the shaft once the engine is out, provided the inner clutch cover does not get in the way during engine removal. Have you made the second video yet? I got my Giantmach used and have probably worked on it 30 hours for every hour that I have driven it. I have replaced both head gaskets, honed the cylinders and replaced the piston rings, as well as corrected major electrical issues. I have made a diagram showing the connections and wire colors between the ECU and all of the sensors and other devices, except for the connections to the dash unit. Wish I had seen your videos sooner. Thanks for what you are doing to help out guys like me.
I did record the second one. I usually put one out every Friday morning but I have been slammed in the shop so haven't edited it yet. But I will try to get it uploaded tonight. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the unit tho.
I am just about to do a crankshaft on a 2011 Supermach HS800UTV (same Hisun EFI twin). The engine started to knock and it rapidly got louder. I took the heads and cylinders off and the front cylinder connecting rod has about 1/8 inch of radial movement on the crank. I have some questions. How do you or did you remove the primary clutch from the end of the crank? I tried a puller with an impact and only the outer sheave came off with the spring and bearing. The inner sheave with the clutch shaft would not come off. I then heated the clutch shaft with an oxy acetylene torch and it sill would not budge. I am about to cut it off with a grinder and then replace the clutch. Looks like you must get a crankshaft with both connecting rods assembled anyways. On Ebay, I found an aftermarket clutch that looks different than what is installed on my UTV. This clutch references Hisun part numbers 21300-010-1000 or 21300-F68-0000 and is listed for all Hisun, Massimo, Benneche 800s. I looked at the Hisun parts lists on the Alpha Sports website. The clutch that looks like mine is shown on the parts diagram for the 2015 Strike and is listed as pn 21300-010-1000 (same number shown for the different looking clutch on Ebay) . This is the same part number referenced on the different looking clutch on Ebay. The Ebay clutch is shown as part number P010000211000000 for the 2016 and newer Hisun Strike 800. The only clutch that looks like mine that I could find on Ebay is listed for the Can Am Commander 800. Do you know if Hisun updated their clutch design and if these two clutches are interchangeable? I am looking forward to your videos on removing and rebuilding this engine, especially on how to disconnect the driveshaft at the front and rear of the engine. Thanks Gord
You will have to super hear that clutch shaft because they rust in really easy. I have one I had to heat up forever & us my clutch puller with an air impact gun & just hammer on it. But there are 2 different styles of primary clutches you can us. The epi style like the can am are the Cv tech clutch. To get the motor out you have to take the rear diff loose & the axles out of the knuckle & slide the rear diff back & then you tale the transmission bolt loose & the lower motor mount bolts out & slide the motor backward off the front drive shaft. Then lift it out. But you need to have the whole clutch & cvt cove off to lift it out
Thanks for taking the time to do this despite you busy life. I am retired and still find it hard to get things done.
Thank you so much for the info. I ended up grinding the clutch shaft off in situ to the face of the inner sheave. I will likely remove the rest of the shaft once the engine is out, provided the inner clutch cover does not get in the way during engine removal. Have you made the second video yet? I got my Giantmach used and have probably worked on it 30 hours for every hour that I have driven it. I have replaced both head gaskets, honed the cylinders and replaced the piston rings, as well as corrected major electrical issues. I have made a diagram showing the connections and wire colors between the ECU and all of the sensors and other devices, except for the connections to the dash unit. Wish I had seen your videos sooner. Thanks for what you are doing to help out guys like me.
I did record the second one. I usually put one out every Friday morning but I have been slammed in the shop so haven't edited it yet. But I will try to get it uploaded tonight. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the unit tho.
I am just about to do a crankshaft on a 2011 Supermach HS800UTV (same Hisun EFI twin). The engine started to knock and it rapidly got louder. I took the heads and cylinders off and the front cylinder connecting rod has about 1/8 inch of radial movement on the crank. I have some questions.
How do you or did you remove the primary clutch from the end of the crank? I tried a puller with an impact and only the outer sheave came off with the spring and bearing. The inner sheave with the clutch shaft would not come off. I then heated the clutch shaft with an oxy acetylene torch and it sill would not budge. I am about to cut it off with a grinder and then replace the clutch. Looks like you must get a crankshaft with both connecting rods assembled anyways.
On Ebay, I found an aftermarket clutch that looks different than what is installed on my UTV. This clutch references Hisun part numbers 21300-010-1000 or 21300-F68-0000 and is listed for all Hisun, Massimo, Benneche 800s.
I looked at the Hisun parts lists on the Alpha Sports website. The clutch that looks like mine is shown on the parts diagram for the 2015 Strike and is listed as pn 21300-010-1000 (same number shown for the different looking clutch on Ebay) . This is the same part number referenced on the different looking clutch on Ebay.
The Ebay clutch is shown as part number P010000211000000 for the 2016 and newer Hisun Strike 800.
The only clutch that looks like mine that I could find on Ebay is listed for the Can Am Commander 800.
Do you know if Hisun updated their clutch design and if these two clutches are interchangeable?
I am looking forward to your videos on removing and rebuilding this engine, especially on how to disconnect the driveshaft at the front and rear of the engine.
Thanks
Gord
You will have to super hear that clutch shaft because they rust in really easy. I have one I had to heat up forever & us my clutch puller with an air impact gun & just hammer on it. But there are 2 different styles of primary clutches you can us. The epi style like the can am are the Cv tech clutch. To get the motor out you have to take the rear diff loose & the axles out of the knuckle & slide the rear diff back & then you tale the transmission bolt loose & the lower motor mount bolts out & slide the motor backward off the front drive shaft. Then lift it out. But you need to have the whole clutch & cvt cove off to lift it out
I didn't film myself pulling the motor I just talk about it.