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Play Dylan I should have another one out on a 2003 660 Grizzly also here in the next couple of weeks. I did the video shoot back in the winter time, but my file got corrupted so now I finally getting back to the point where I can edit the video and get it out I think LOL

Sounds like you definitely need to check out your crank sensor. You need a ohm test it to see if it's got good ohms and then you need to do a peak voltage test to see if that's working. Usually when you have no spark it's usually a bad crank position sensor. Ain't on that model I believe it's part of the stator so it's not going to be cheap.

Normalerweise dauert die Ventileinstellung zwischen 2 und 4 Stunden

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Vielen Dank

My question would be does it also do it when you're a neutral and you rev it up? Or is it only underneath actual driving acceleration?

Yes buying the OEM stator is absolutely the best thing to do. The cheap Chinese jink ones can cause you're stator to crap out are cause issues with your battery. I'm glad to hear my video helped you diag what the problem was.

I have had to do that with other customers in the past. Him & I have been in contact the whole time. He is also from Huston Texas. But I'm a little guilty of being on the road with the MotoAmerica race series & having a limited schedule for pick up.

That definitely sounds like it needs a carburetor cleaner rebuild. If it's not idling properly it's probably the pilot jet is being clogged. You can get yourself a nice kit from all balls. When do you set the mixture screw about 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated

Nothing like making free money I hate to say it happened during covid but a lot of dealers are actually calling customers back to buy side by sides and Sea-Doos

You definitely have an issue with most likely your clutch. I have multiple videos on how to replace it. I would replace your wet clutch & the oneway bearing. But buy a yamaha grizzly 660 oneway bearing. Then also clean & service your primary clutch. I run across this all the time. Also your idle needs to be no higher than 1,400 rpms.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 of the idle is too high will it keep the transmission engaged and cause this issue?

Yes because if the secondary clutch is spinning then it is putting tension on the transmission & spinning it. The transmission needs to be almost setting still for it to shift in & out if gear properly.

A few things to try & check. Have you done an ecu reset? If so I would check you intake track & throttle body if it is a EFI unit. Take the IAC motor offthe throttle body & clean it & spray out the passage for the IAC motor. Check for ait leaks on the intake. Also check vavle clearances, you should do a leak down test to check the health of the motor. If it's a 500 you should check cam timing & see if the cam lobs are wore off. Also I'd the fuel pump priming? Also check to see if you have at least 38-42 psi & that it hold pressure for at least 5mins after turning the key off. Also could have an issue with the TPS sensor.

Hey bud I'm pretty sure I just answered your email back but like I was saying in your email sometimes these things have issues with stretch timing chains making them go out of time and the can lobes like to wear off in the 500. Also I would check your valve clearances to make sure those are set properly. Have you had any issues with it running in warmer weather

Most likely, I’ll let you know if it fits my 2005 trx450r motor

@@DanteCold43 thank you

It might be possible. It will all depend on the motor mount bolt locations.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I think I'm going to build my own

I'm pretty sure I just answered the email back but yeah most shops in charge away from 2500 to $1,000 to put a transmission in it

I really appreciate the super thanks.

Lol I know that feeling. Are you getting any FI codes? I would tryto replacethe cam sensor first.(KAWASAKI OEM CAM SENSOR | 21176-0064) It could be a bad crank sensor .(KAWASAKI OEM PULSING COIL | 59026-0009 Also male sure the battery is charging properly. Low battery voltage with cause the fuel injection system to act all kinds of crazy

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 new battery and no codes spent all day working on it checked the plugs and coils after installing them everything is good on that end very frustrating brother

Well I'm 6'5 260lbs. Poor little thing was probably praying for me to get off of it lol

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I'm 290 lol n it goes 60 63 on flat lol

Damn we are some big dudes 😆

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 yea lol fr but I love my z it loud and all its a 2018 with 3800 miles lol

You may want to try to eliminate the reverse speed controller wire out of the ecu. That could be part of your problem. If you want you can shoot me an email at LimitlessPowersports78@gmail.com and I will send you the schematic

If you have the oil fill extension absolutely. Evem with out if adding a little more really does help. But adding slugs helps even more.

Oh yeah 100% lol

I really appreciate that.

Sure what are you looking to have done?

Most likely it needs a good carb clean & adjustment. Sounds loke you have a clogged pilot jet if it doesn't run off throttle are idle

It's a huge problem with the CVT cover & the fan cover on the other side. It's the metal nut inserts that are spinning in the plastic. You're going to have to break them loose

Are you absolutely sure you have no problem in the wiring. Cuz this is usually a ground wire issue. Should check the 9 pin white connector for corrosion or any issues inside of there. And also double check your chassis ground and your battery ground.

That's a really good question. I'm just glad that you understand that all manufacturers have issues. But a lot of the manufacturers that make the aftermarket UTV's have a lot more issues than the name brand manufacturers. I'm a huge fan of the Can-Am Mavericks and the Can-Am defenders. I love the Can-Am I've worked for Can-Am before and I think they're a great unit. Also Polaris makes a really good unit also. Now the major manufacturers are not as affordable as your aftermarket ones but again they do not have near as many problems as they do on the aftermarket. With the aftermarket one is very hard to find parts with the major manufacturers parts are readily available for many years. And also with the major manufacturers you have dealerships that will work on your units and that are close by. Most of the aftermarket units no one wants to touch because it's such a pain in the butt. And it's very hard to find a place that will honor the warranty or will do any type of work to your unit at all.

My best educated guess is going to be it is to pick up coil on the stator that is going out once it gets hot. Then it cools off and it will start and run fine again until it gets hot. The crank position sensor or pickup coil that is built into the stator will break down once it gets hot because it is bathed in oil. So my best guess would be replaced the stator with a new one that has the pickup coil included on it. This is a very common problem on motorcycles and ATVs also when they get hot because of pickup coil breaks down and goes out and loses its Spark. So that is my very best guess of what it is doing and what the issue is that is causing your problem.

The 6Mx1.00 bolt with the 10mm head was to spread the secondary clutch apart to give the belt slack so I could take it off. When it comes to the oneway bearing I should have multiple videos on how to replace it & the steps. I have a video that is just about the clutches also.

The charging system has a stator & a regulator/ rectifier. I have a video on how to test the charging system. It's the same test on all the models.

I don't remember but I can message my customer & let you know in the next few days.

Lol. That will be barely hand tight

Hey time I believe the valve clearances are intake .005in & exhaust is .007 I know the older ones were .005 on both intake & exhaust.

Also check of air leaks. Double check cam timing also. Even tho it's new the do stretch the chain.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Ok will check thanks for the info. Great Channel.

Kyle I checked the timing and valve clearance it was ok set as you recommened. I ordered a new Chikia OEM Idle Air Control Valve that didn't help. I keep getting a high idle when I crank it about 2.8 you can kill it and sometimes it will go down to 1.5 but not always then when I kill it I get a big pressure ch chug from the engine. Do you think the timing chain is stretched or the crankshaft key partially shered.

Are you sure that cam lobes are not wore off your cam? Also did you do a ecu reset after you replace the IAC motor. If not you for sure need to do that.

Most of them are in the rear differential

And if I try to pump clutch up to bleed it it squirts fluid out if I have the cover off the master cylinder

Yeah it will squirt back up through the master cylinder because it has a fluid return hole. So you have to slowly pump it are put the top back on. But yoy can always try to reverse bleed the slave cylinder to male sure all the air bubbles are out. But yoy may want to inspect the clutch if it's making noise like that.

The scanner I have is actually from Massimo. I know after 2017 all manufacturers have to be odbll compliant & you might be able to use a regular odbll scanner with the adapter to scan your unit.

You are right. I thought he meant the flaky shiny stuff in it.

They are a cheaper bearing & when you are slowing down on the de acceleration the bearings like to chatter in the spring that holds in place are very weak and they will come out. There is a fix for it by changing the spring that holds it in place and shortened it up a little bit so it's tighter