I'm about to rip all my hair off frustration. My Daughter's Tiguan 2.0 TDi 2011 had similar symptoms shortly after I swapped the EGR with a new one. After about one hour of normal engine performance, it started to lose it's power when I accelerated. It was almost impossible to run the car if I didn't rev it over 2000-2500rpm. I managed to drive it home. Not limp mode, and no warning lights. But when I tried to start it the day after (it's winter here in Norway), it starts, but runs very rough and stalls after a few seconds. (It's not the immobilizer) If it is the same valve, I owe you BIG TIME for the tip. Will check in the morning.
This is so very helpful. I'll check this in the morning. I'll try to tell my story short: VW 1.9 TDi 66kW 2001 (my first car, have it for one year) A few days ago I noticed that too much oil is lost and it looks like it leaks from the oil cap. Too much pressure ?!? Anyway, while the engine is on, I unscrew the cap it "dances" very much. If I wouldn't hold it loosely with my hand it would fall of. So I thought it's time to finally try to clean the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The EGR has been leaky all the time since I got the car (have 370'000 km on it). So today I opened it up to find that it's barely clogged up. Only a thin coat of that "diesel poo". Decided to not clean the intake manifold for now because I thought it would be so clogged up that I couln't see through but hey, at least something good. While removing all the hoses and etc. I noticed that one cable with two wires was almost eaten away, bare wires were touching an there was a lot of cable cover missing. Decided to cut out the bad part and solder on a fresh piece of wire an put some shrink sleeve on. And wrap it with electrical tape. Recently after finishing up I took a picture from the thing the wire went to and it's the ASV solenoid valve. Now I start to think my car sounds limp. Will try to check tomorrow. P.S. one more thing - can this somehow be the cause for the turbine to "glitch" ? When I'm on the road and go over 110 kmh and if I press the pedal fast go to 120 kmh the turbine sometimes "glitches" and accelerates very slowly, the only thing that helps is when I restart the car. It doesn't happen if I press the pedal slowly after 110 kmh A friend told me that this can be a electrical issue, but of course I know it can be the tubine. Maybe now I have hope. Still the most urgent problem is the oil leak. I've used up 2L oil can over some 2-3 weeks. And again thanks for this wast amount of info. Will have to check the other valves too which you talked about in the description.
Glad this helped. If you're getting lots of pressure out of your oil cap there may be something else going on, like maybe a blocked valve cover breather hose. If you're using that much oil and it's not falling out on the ground somewhere then it's probably going into the cylinder and being burned, hopefully your piston rings are still good. There are many things that can cause your car's computer to go into limp mode, the ASV valve might be one of them so hopefully that solves your turbo glitch problem. Good luck!
in my case i changed the egr valve. after couple of drives around i stoped at home and later wanted to drive again but my car stalled. i figured out that the N239 valve(thats what video shows to change) sucks in vacuum, what closes the egr anti shudder valve and the car stalls. Disconecting the vac line to anti shudder valve and pluging the line with something helps to run the car. i guess the n239 solenoid valve is stuck open or the cars brains are gone bad so they gives the signal to the solenoid to open and suck vacuum
Any idea if this could cause excessive boost pressure? I'm getting P0238 code after repairing deer damage. The main fuse blew shutting down the engine with the valve open.
@@robbierisque the EGR works perfect since it's in the garbage. I have a full delete on the car. The actuator moves by hand. I will have to check if it moves electronically.
@@spidergoose891 an egr delete can give you a boost code if you haven't changed anything in the ECU or gotten a tune. If it's just a check engine light you can just live with it, and if your car goes into limp mode because of it you can try the old "turn it off and back on again" to get it back to normal operation (you should do this while stationary, steering lock while driving is a bad idea). A handheld vacuum pump is handy to test the turbo actuator, there's some specs somewhere on the internet about the range of vacuum that should move the actuator through it's whole range.
Maybe it could if it the N95 valve failed worse than ours and your anti-shudder valve was able to fully close, but in our case it just had very little power
I'm about to rip all my hair off frustration. My Daughter's Tiguan 2.0 TDi 2011 had similar symptoms shortly after I swapped the EGR with a new one. After about one hour of normal engine performance, it started to lose it's power when I accelerated. It was almost impossible to run the car if I didn't rev it over 2000-2500rpm. I managed to drive it home. Not limp mode, and no warning lights. But when I tried to start it the day after (it's winter here in Norway), it starts, but runs very rough and stalls after a few seconds. (It's not the immobilizer) If it is the same valve, I owe you BIG TIME for the tip. Will check in the morning.
This is so very helpful. I'll check this in the morning.
I'll try to tell my story short:
VW 1.9 TDi 66kW 2001
(my first car, have it for one year)
A few days ago I noticed that too much oil is lost and it looks like it leaks from the oil cap. Too much pressure ?!?
Anyway, while the engine is on, I unscrew the cap it "dances" very much. If I wouldn't hold it loosely with my hand it would fall of.
So I thought it's time to finally try to clean the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The EGR has been leaky all the time since I got the car (have 370'000 km on it).
So today I opened it up to find that it's barely clogged up. Only a thin coat of that "diesel poo".
Decided to not clean the intake manifold for now because I thought it would be so clogged up that I couln't see through but hey, at least something good.
While removing all the hoses and etc. I noticed that one cable with two wires was almost eaten away, bare wires were touching an there was a lot of cable cover missing. Decided to cut out the bad part and solder on a fresh piece of wire an put some shrink sleeve on. And wrap it with electrical tape.
Recently after finishing up I took a picture from the thing the wire went to and it's the ASV solenoid valve.
Now I start to think my car sounds limp. Will try to check tomorrow.
P.S. one more thing - can this somehow be the cause for the turbine to "glitch" ?
When I'm on the road and go over 110 kmh and if I press the pedal fast go to 120 kmh the turbine sometimes "glitches" and accelerates very slowly, the only thing that helps is when I restart the car. It doesn't happen if I press the pedal slowly after 110 kmh
A friend told me that this can be a electrical issue, but of course I know it can be the tubine.
Maybe now I have hope.
Still the most urgent problem is the oil leak. I've used up 2L oil can over some 2-3 weeks.
And again thanks for this wast amount of info. Will have to check the other valves too which you talked about in the description.
Glad this helped. If you're getting lots of pressure out of your oil cap there may be something else going on, like maybe a blocked valve cover breather hose. If you're using that much oil and it's not falling out on the ground somewhere then it's probably going into the cylinder and being burned, hopefully your piston rings are still good. There are many things that can cause your car's computer to go into limp mode, the ASV valve might be one of them so hopefully that solves your turbo glitch problem. Good luck!
in my case i changed the egr valve. after couple of drives around i stoped at home and later wanted to drive again but my car stalled. i figured out that the N239 valve(thats what video shows to change) sucks in vacuum, what closes the egr anti shudder valve and the car stalls. Disconecting the vac line to anti shudder valve and pluging the line with something helps to run the car. i guess the n239 solenoid valve is stuck open or the cars brains are gone bad so they gives the signal to the solenoid to open and suck vacuum
Thanks
Thank you for sharing
there should be a bracket holding that and other solenoids
Any idea if this could cause excessive boost pressure? I'm getting P0238 code after repairing deer damage. The main fuse blew shutting down the engine with the valve open.
Not sure on that one, I would check your turbo actuator to see if it's working, and after see if your egr valve is working right
@@robbierisque the EGR works perfect since it's in the garbage. I have a full delete on the car. The actuator moves by hand. I will have to check if it moves electronically.
@@spidergoose891 an egr delete can give you a boost code if you haven't changed anything in the ECU or gotten a tune. If it's just a check engine light you can just live with it, and if your car goes into limp mode because of it you can try the old "turn it off and back on again" to get it back to normal operation (you should do this while stationary, steering lock while driving is a bad idea). A handheld vacuum pump is handy to test the turbo actuator, there's some specs somewhere on the internet about the range of vacuum that should move the actuator through it's whole range.
So does this make the car shut off? Does the battery light come if it does?
Maybe it could if it the N95 valve failed worse than ours and your anti-shudder valve was able to fully close, but in our case it just had very little power