Great run. Definitely a difference between fuels running the track. Really surprised they both hit 150C. Would expect a difference in temperature. This calls for more testing😆
Hey Kings, noticable torque difference but that's it. I should have tested with a larger venturi. I will start testing 12% with different offroad engines, if they run as good as my maxys with 12, I will be happy with it, stop mixing fuel and burn my 25% stock just for fun.
If you wish to quieten the engine look for an induction noise silencer air filter. Very common in on road and makes. A big difference . Particularly at idle
I agree Tasty, the engine was running really hot those max temperatures. Let us know how the body changes do for the temp - If the top end power/speed is the same between the two fuels and the bottom is end better with the 25% then, that sounds like a win for the 25%. Run it as long as the fuel price is ok with you. You can definatly tell a difference on camera between the two fuels on acceleration. Especially when you had to richen the HSN with the 12% due to head temp Thanks for the fun fun 🩷
Thank you! Yes 25 wins but barely. I made larger holes and now cooling is perfect even with 12. I watched a lot of gt videos and they never open large holes on the shell.. very weird, I am pretty sure that they rather run hot than ruin aerodynamics, how do you open your onroad bodyshells?
@@TastyBRC I understand that formal racers wouldn’t care as much with heat as you and I might. They rebuild or get new engines often so, they wouldn’t care as much to put big holes in the body or have the engine over heat I have had good luck with a front single windshield holes of 45-50mm in diameter (depending on windshield and head size) and the back depends on the style of the body. Some bodies allow for the head to stick out, some don’t so, the cut really depends (as you know) - When I can have a normal rear hole/circle then, I normally go about 6-12mm larger in diameter than the front hole Also, if the body allows for it, I like to keep the back of the body more open (bumper area - cut more of the bumper out) to allow for turbulent air flow to escape easier out the back - At this point in my RC life, I do not cut any of the side windows out. That tends to add turbulence and/or doesn’t seem to add any cooling benefit Just some of my thoughts
@@TastyBRC Just depends on the car (location of the fuel tank) and the body design. I do have some bodies that have portions of the windows cut. We just do what we have to do at times but, I try not to use windows if I can help it - Sometimes I can use the front window hole to reach in to fill. I don’t see anything bad on your body and it’s most important to help the engine healthy (keeps our stress level down too lol)
Love the Vid bro, remember she can only make so much rpm (speed) with a 7mm air restriction even on 65% nitro but the higher nitro will let you pull a bit more gear. Next time you are out and you get the engine/pipe/shim stack /plug all dialed remove the venturi all together ...massive difference. I think the 3.0 Maxy only has a 8mm carb on it so I'd swap it . I only run 9mm carbs w no venturi when testing . From my findings with around 10 Gt engines and countless pipe combos is with a 7mm venturi they all pull about the same rpm ....stupid rule. Now run a 9mm and some motors really shine esp when modded. Bro are you on IG? I want to send you a vid of the long rod engine I been mentioning . See ya next vid
You are right, Ifmar rules limit the venturi to 7mm! That is certainly the reason why she was not making more speed, as you said. I did not think about that. Next Im going with 8mm or no venturi and remove a head shim. Im not on IG.. messenger 🤙 Thanks for the comme Kawi 👊
@@TastyBRC Give her all the air she can injest!! When you head out to test again bring a couple plugs cooler than you have, I know the Maxy like Picco plugs but I have ran Rp6/Rp7 plugs in the GT1 Picco w great success. This way you have the ability to control ignition. As far as shims go ,you can use the OS R21 .15 shim in conjunction with the Picco ones, this way you can reduce the amount by .05. I did this with my Picco GT1 and it was much angrier, but on low nitro I'm sure you can yank .10 maybe more just read the plug and do go lean and the plug will survive. If you try that, use the Picco shim to be in contact with the button for the best seal and the R21 shim on top....no worries bro I get you a vid of that monster of an engine in time one way or another lol. I'm actually in the process of assembling another tonight to finalize the concept but this time ported backplate, flow mods and lightened crank..no timing changes yet but its already king daddy as it sits. In the event it all works as planned I'll then sprinkle in a bit more timing. Again, when you see it and hear the way it runs you will say to yourself "ooohhhhhh now I get it" lol. Later bro and the rest of the nitro fam
@@TastyBRC ok , so if you use a liner shim sayyy .20 , in order to keep the compression in check you have to pull .20 from under the button - you already know this but if I want to increase compression and I don’t have. .05 worth I typically install a .20 liner shim and install a .15 , then regear if needed .
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great run. Definitely a difference between fuels running the track. Really surprised they both hit 150C. Would expect a difference in temperature. This calls for more testing😆
Hey Kings, noticable torque difference but that's it. I should have tested with a larger venturi. I will start testing 12% with different offroad engines, if they run as good as my maxys with 12, I will be happy with it, stop mixing fuel and burn my 25% stock just for fun.
If you wish to quieten the engine look for an induction noise silencer air filter. Very common in on road and makes. A big difference . Particularly at idle
Yes, I checked for those air filters but not for the noise reduction but to run in wet conditions. Problème is the price!
Really a Nice bodyshell. Hopefully one day, I made paintjob like you !
Thank you! Its easy, just takes a lot patience..
I agree Tasty, the engine was running really hot those max temperatures. Let us know how the body changes do for the temp
- If the top end power/speed is the same between the two fuels and the bottom is end better with the 25% then, that sounds like a win for the 25%. Run it as long as the fuel price is ok with you. You can definatly tell a difference on camera between the two fuels on acceleration. Especially when you had to richen the HSN with the 12% due to head temp
Thanks for the fun fun 🩷
Thank you!
Yes 25 wins but barely. I made larger holes and now cooling is perfect even with 12. I watched a lot of gt videos and they never open large holes on the shell.. very weird, I am pretty sure that they rather run hot than ruin aerodynamics, how do you open your onroad bodyshells?
@@TastyBRC I understand that formal racers wouldn’t care as much with heat as you and I might.
They rebuild or get new engines often so, they wouldn’t care as much to put big holes in the body or have the engine over heat
I have had good luck with a front single windshield holes of 45-50mm in diameter (depending on windshield and head size) and the back depends on the style of the body.
Some bodies allow for the head to stick out, some don’t so, the cut really depends (as you know)
- When I can have a normal rear hole/circle then, I normally go about 6-12mm larger in diameter than the front hole
Also, if the body allows for it, I like to keep the back of the body more open (bumper area - cut more of the bumper out) to allow for turbulent air flow to escape easier out the back
- At this point in my RC life, I do not cut any of the side windows out. That tends to add turbulence and/or doesn’t seem to add any cooling benefit
Just some of my thoughts
I cut the dide Windows for extra airflow but also to refuel, left side window gives acces to fuel tank. How do you refuel?
@@TastyBRC Just depends on the car (location of the fuel tank) and the body design. I do have some bodies that have portions of the windows cut. We just do what we have to do at times but, I try not to use windows if I can help it
- Sometimes I can use the front window hole to reach in to fill. I don’t see anything bad on your body and it’s most important to help the engine healthy (keeps our stress level down too lol)
Great compare
Thank you!
Love the Vid bro, remember she can only make so much rpm (speed) with a 7mm air restriction even on 65% nitro but the higher nitro will let you pull a bit more gear. Next time you are out and you get the engine/pipe/shim stack /plug all dialed remove the venturi all together ...massive difference. I think the 3.0 Maxy only has a 8mm carb on it so I'd swap it . I only run 9mm carbs w no venturi when testing . From my findings with around 10 Gt engines and countless pipe combos is with a 7mm venturi they all pull about the same rpm ....stupid rule. Now run a 9mm and some motors really shine esp when modded. Bro are you on IG? I want to send you a vid of the long rod engine I been mentioning . See ya next vid
You are right, Ifmar rules limit the venturi to 7mm! That is certainly the reason why she was not making more speed, as you said. I did not think about that. Next Im going with 8mm or no venturi and remove a head shim.
Im not on IG.. messenger 🤙
Thanks for the comme Kawi 👊
@@TastyBRC Give her all the air she can injest!! When you head out to test again bring a couple plugs cooler than you have, I know the Maxy like Picco plugs but I have ran Rp6/Rp7 plugs in the GT1 Picco w great success. This way you have the ability to control ignition. As far as shims go ,you can use the OS R21 .15 shim in conjunction with the Picco ones, this way you can reduce the amount by .05. I did this with my Picco GT1 and it was much angrier, but on low nitro I'm sure you can yank .10 maybe more just read the plug and do go lean and the plug will survive. If you try that, use the Picco shim to be in contact with the button for the best seal and the R21 shim on top....no worries bro I get you a vid of that monster of an engine in time one way or another lol. I'm actually in the process of assembling another tonight to finalize the concept but this time ported backplate, flow mods and lightened crank..no timing changes yet but its already king daddy as it sits. In the event it all works as planned I'll then sprinkle in a bit more timing. Again, when you see it and hear the way it runs you will say to yourself "ooohhhhhh now I get it" lol. Later bro and the rest of the nitro fam
@@TastyBRC Oh I forgot to add, when I was talking about using the OS .15 shim ,I also used a liner shim ...
So colder plug and -.05 head shim, but what about the liner shim you mentioned ?
@@TastyBRC ok , so if you use a liner shim sayyy .20 , in order to keep the compression in check you have to pull .20 from under the button - you already know this but if I want to increase compression and I don’t have. .05 worth I typically install a .20 liner shim and install a .15 , then regear if needed .
Awesome comparison bro as always well done just interested in the clutch setup you run? Power house motor bro I’m getting my gt soon 🤜
Thanks Tony, Stock clutch, 3 shoes and 1.2 springs, thicker springs ever, very difficult to install. Looking forward to see you GT!
6:09 How did you patch the hole in your body? With a decal?
With a piece of lexan, tape inside, decals outside