Thanks for posting the video. Always nice to see other peoples experiences. I've been changing my oil in my Avalon for about 8 years now and I have the same situation as you - the smaller "oil filter drain plug" part is stuck. Likely somebody at the dealer tightened it too much when I let them do the original 5K oil change. Since its stuck, I've been able to remove the oil filter housing the same way you did for the last dozen oil changes. Never have been able to take the smaller drain plug part out! But just in case the next time it loosens, I think I'll buy an oil filter cap wrench. That will also help me not overstress the threads on the drain plug thingie when I tighten the main housing. Still - I may never remove the oil filter drain plug ! Seems to work fine without messing with it. Just wear gloves to deal with the oil running down the housing (same as for cars with spin-on oil filters...). Thanks again for the nice video.
Don't know about your car, but how do you drain all the oil without removing the drain plug since the filter is higher than the bottom of the oil pan? User a cheater bar or invest in a breaker bar for that plug.
@@kimchee94112 I am pretty sure he is talking about the drain plug on the bottom of the filter housing being stuck, not the actual engine oil pan drain plug.
Thanks for the video, I just google to find out were the oil filter was, because I didn't know, and I didn't want to be looking in the wrong place. When I watched your video I saw how different it was to change the filter, At first I was a little intimidated, because Toyota make the new way to do it. But you know what it was easier to do, I guess you probably already know that. I wish that I would have worn gloves because I got allot of oil on my hands. Oh my sienna is a 2013 and the job was about the same. I think it is a good way to do it, I used my biggest Channel Lock to turn the main housing body, because when I tried the 3/8" drive to remove the little cover came loose right away. Thank you
Thanks for the video. Someone who changed you oil used the 3/8 drive ti tighten the filter canister which was WRONG and can damage the canister... The filter canister should be removed/installed by using the proper filter wrench/socket/tool; the 3/8 drive end cap is for draining the oil out of the filter canister before the canister is removed (so it's less messy), this end cap is to be reinstalled with only a few in-lbs of torque.
You're correct ip I think it specs at 10 for that nut. 20 for the canister and 30 for the oil drain plug in the oil pan. So easy to remember 30 20 10. But I've noticed these canisters espcially the plastic polymer ones are hell to get off period. The aluminum ones seem to come loose lots easier 99% of the time.
Cool. I think I am going to try it your way first. If it works it is probably the best way to avoid damaging the housing. Toyota should make it optional to use spin-on vs cartridge. DIY would go spin-on.
Thanks so much for the video! Great work w the video and it is indeed kinda of funny! But thanks so much for the effort of making it easier I just got a Sienna and didn't expected it to be so diferente! Chears!!!
The regular oil filters worked fine , don't know why they went to this design. My son has a 2015 Honda Civic Si and it still uses the canister style oil filter , I just changed his oil today.
You should see the quality of those old canister style filters, if you are not lucky some has gaps or holes that basically makes a filter useless plus some of those anti-drain back valve/plastic becomes harden/useless... The new style filter, we get to see it and much more reliable with quality.
the oil filters in the 60s were just filters like this. They then changer in the 70s to the screw on ones,, we have now gone BACKWARDS 50 years....???????????
You are certainly a funny guy. However. The small cap below the oil filter housing is designed to be taken off, use the plastic adapter to drain the oil from the housing. Yours is very tight and, therefore, the whole housing was removed from the engine without using the tool to remove the housing. It seems to work for you, nevertheless, removing the housing using the 3/8 socket eventually will wear down to the point that it will unable to be remove - consequence need to buy a new oil housing unit. I recommend removing the cap, drain the oil with the plastic spout, using the proper tool to remove the house.
Harr W "removing the housing using the 3/8 socket eventually will WEAR DOWN to the point that it will unable to be remove". Can you explain in detail what will "wear down" if I use this method? The 3/8 square hole or the threads on the housing? Would it be the same if you unscrew the housing using the oil-filter wrench instead?
vuaeco square hole in the small cover plate will wear down. I thought I was clever and also removed the housing filters from the small plate. Eventually the hole in the plate wore down and I had a difficult time getting it out of the housing, and had to replace it as well. Best bet is use the appropriate tool to remove the housing. I am only suggesting you follow the proper procedures. You may continue to remove the housing by using the small drain hole cover plate as leverage.
Interesting. Either cheap tool or cheap housing where you have metal deformation under not that much torsion. If rounded out too much, an internal pipe wrench could back it out.
how fokked up...got tool to remove housing. trying to remove small bottom portion to drain oil in filter and the entire housing starts turning...then i try to loosen drain bolt and omfg...it's like it is welded on. will take somewhere to get these loose and torqued correctly. 1st time I've tried to change oil. supposedly it was changed one other time before i took ownership. i have to agree it is important to remove all with proper tools and torque correctly. according to specs for toy camry should be 30 lbft drain plug 10 lbft for small 3/8 plug(cap) and 20 lbft for the housing, so yes someone incorrectly torqued this or it would not be coming loose with the 3/8 hole on the cap.
Will a strap oil filter tool work, where you wrap the nylon strap around the filter, and then stick a 1/2" drive ratchet in the metal hole on the tool to remove it?
Best oil filter cap wrench for this application and with the best reviews... www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Motivx&qid=1592776530&sr=8-2
I came here to see what the little plastic thing that comes with the filter is for. So i guess we just throw it away. I just hope its not an important bypass valve or something.
The problem with your method is that if the little cap moves and the big filter housing stays stuck , they you're stuck and have to run to the dealer to get the wrench for the housing .
That's not really a problem because if that little cap moves, you can still drain the oil out and you still need a wrench for the housing anyway. Actually, let me correct that, you won't need a wrench for the housing as a large adjustable wrench/pliers would do. It's not too hard to open up the housing anyway.
X L It depends on the oil you use, synthetic gives you 5000 miles before replacing. Most of the cars now use synthetic, old cars have you the choice to house non synthetic, but the replacement is every 3000 miles. Hope was helpful.
@igorrosales1799 Hi. I will use synthetic the density you have in the oil cap. If the vehicle is more than 100k I will use high millage oil. I used mobil oil high millage with a filter for synthetic oil, but I don't change the density that manufactured recomends.
Wonder how many engines were damaged following the instructions? He didnt use the plastic drain for the filter assy.. Didnt use the Wrench to remove the filter housing and didnt replace the crush washer or drain the oil pan.. Was more like instructions on what not to do..
STAY AWAY from Toyota dealerships (goes double for Richardson TX) especially for anything ...they sold my Dad 3 timing belts in less than 5 years. Screwing a senior citizen suffering from a failing repertory system.
Dad drive a lot? I replace at 130,000 miles on the old Japanese assembled Camry and the belt looks new. Still should not go by looks, supposed to replace around 80,0000 miles. Anyway did the belt and water pump myself. Yeah had to fabricate a special tool, too cheap to buy one. Mechanic could do it in about 4 hours, no idea how they could do it that fast. I needed 2 days for the first time, nice and slow.
this type of filter is used to reduce waste and cost. there is really zero reason to ship a papper filter in a steel housing. with housing being a reusable part you can just pay for a paper cartridge. much like air filters worked for half centuary
Actually sometime between 2008 and 2009 Toyota went to a cartridge filter and canister housing. The 2.5 4 banger got the glorious plastic polymer canister cap and the v6 on most got the aluminum counter part. Why they were not all aluminum is beyond me as many have problems with the plastic polymer type caps cracking over time.
You missed the oil plug to actually drain completely. Also you need to tighten the outer jacket, using square drive to tighten from middle is going to ruin your whole set. Guys please don't follow this. Car nut guy or Scotty Kilmer may have some videos on this on RUclips.
+nick chiappini My great great grand ancestor came from Africa over 10,000 years ago. They migrated to Europe, Asia, and even America (mind you, Columbus is NOT the first guy to find America). So my accent is actually a mix of African, European, Asian, and American. That's why it sounds so "bizarre"! :eek:
The reason the entire oil filter cap came off when you tried to remove the drainplug on the oil filter cap is because someone over-torqued the drainplug on the oil filter cap. OIL CHANGE TORQUE Specs... Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m/30 ft lbs Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m/18 (±3.5) ft lbs Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m/10 ft lbs You might want to try this again when you learn how to do it by the book... What do you think? I've been changing oil for 66 years but have only done the cartridge system four times. I'm ready to do my own video (by the book).
Thank you for your videos. You have helped me to move my 2008 Sienna seats, and now you have helped me with my oil change. Thank you.
which oil do you recommend for my sienna 2008? what brand and specifications? thanks
Thanks for posting the video. Always nice to see other peoples experiences. I've been changing my oil in my Avalon for about 8 years now and I have the same situation as you - the smaller "oil filter drain plug" part is stuck. Likely somebody at the dealer tightened it too much when I let them do the original 5K oil change. Since its stuck, I've been able to remove the oil filter housing the same way you did for the last dozen oil changes. Never have been able to take the smaller drain plug part out!
But just in case the next time it loosens, I think I'll buy an oil filter cap wrench. That will also help me not overstress the threads on the drain plug thingie when I tighten the main housing. Still - I may never remove the oil filter drain plug ! Seems to work fine without messing with it. Just wear gloves to deal with the oil running down the housing (same as for cars with spin-on oil filters...).
Thanks again for the nice video.
My pleasure.
Don't know about your car, but how do you drain all the oil without removing the drain plug since the filter is higher than the bottom of the oil pan? User a cheater bar or invest in a breaker bar for that plug.
@@kimchee94112 I am pretty sure he is talking about the drain plug on the bottom of the filter housing being stuck, not the actual engine oil pan drain plug.
Thanks for the video, I just google to find out were the oil filter was, because I didn't know, and I didn't want to be looking in the wrong place. When I watched your video I saw how different it was to change the filter, At first I was a little intimidated, because Toyota make the new way to do it. But you know what it was easier to do, I guess you probably already know that. I wish that I would have worn gloves because I got allot of oil on my hands. Oh my sienna is a 2013 and the job was about the same. I think it is a good way to do it, I used my biggest Channel Lock to turn the main housing body, because when I tried the 3/8" drive to remove the little cover came loose right away. Thank you
Thanks for helping, my first time changing oíl on my sienna
Thanks for the video. Someone who changed you oil used the 3/8 drive ti tighten the filter canister which was WRONG and can damage the canister... The filter canister should be removed/installed by using the proper filter wrench/socket/tool; the 3/8 drive end cap is for draining the oil out of the filter canister before the canister is removed (so it's less messy), this end cap is to be reinstalled with only a few in-lbs of torque.
You're correct ip I think it specs at 10 for that nut. 20 for the canister and 30 for the oil drain plug in the oil pan. So easy to remember 30 20 10. But I've noticed these canisters espcially the plastic polymer ones are hell to get off period. The aluminum ones seem to come loose lots easier 99% of the time.
Vuaeco you are the best....I like watching your videos its so relaxing...
Cool. I think I am going to try it your way first. If it works it is probably the best way to avoid damaging the housing. Toyota should make it optional to use spin-on vs cartridge. DIY would go spin-on.
Thanks so much for the video! Great work w the video and it is indeed kinda of funny! But thanks so much for the effort of making it easier
I just got a Sienna and didn't expected it to be so diferente!
Chears!!!
Pipe wrench and 3/8 to get off the smaller housing. Thanks for the video.
The regular oil filters worked fine , don't know why they went to this design. My son has a 2015 Honda Civic Si and it still uses the canister style oil filter , I just changed his oil today.
You should see the quality of those old canister style filters, if you are not lucky some has gaps or holes that basically makes a filter useless plus some of those anti-drain back valve/plastic becomes harden/useless... The new style filter, we get to see it and much more reliable with quality.
They want to get more money from everyone !
Why did the do this? Because they are complete morons. Another oil filter design after 100 years, talk about stupid. Nice work Toyota.
the oil filters in the 60s were just filters like this. They then changer in the 70s to the screw on ones,, we have now gone BACKWARDS 50 years....???????????
Screw on is simple to do . This type is just a pain in the bum .
What size sockets, ratchets and ratchet extensions should I get for this procedure? Thank you!
Excellent! Thanks man!
what I need do to remove safely the filter whiteout damages the car?
hi bro I got a 2015 yaris the air is coming from aircon but it's not cooling any idea??
Your accent is fine and I understood every word!!
My sienna 06 dont have that type of oil filter, are you sure its for 06 ? Or 07 and up
Thank you for help 0n removing my oil filter
Thank you
Thanks.
You are certainly a funny guy.
However.
The small cap below the oil filter housing is designed to be taken off, use the plastic adapter to drain the oil from the housing. Yours is very tight and, therefore, the whole housing was removed from the engine without using the tool to remove the housing.
It seems to work for you, nevertheless, removing the housing using the 3/8 socket eventually will wear down to the point that it will unable to be remove - consequence need to buy a new oil housing unit.
I recommend removing the cap, drain the oil with the plastic spout, using the proper tool to remove the house.
Harr W "removing the housing using the 3/8 socket eventually will WEAR DOWN to the point that it will unable to be remove". Can you explain in detail what will "wear down" if I use this method? The 3/8 square hole or the threads on the housing? Would it be the same if you unscrew the housing using the oil-filter wrench instead?
vuaeco square hole in the small cover plate will wear down. I thought I was clever and also removed the housing filters from the small plate. Eventually the hole in the plate wore down and I had a difficult time getting it out of the housing, and had to replace it as well. Best bet is use the appropriate tool to remove the housing. I am only suggesting you follow the proper procedures. You may continue to remove the housing by using the small drain hole cover plate as leverage.
vuaeco q
Interesting. Either cheap tool or cheap housing where you have metal deformation under not that much torsion. If rounded out too much, an internal pipe wrench could back it out.
how fokked up...got tool to remove housing. trying to remove small bottom portion to drain oil in filter and the entire housing starts turning...then i try to loosen drain bolt and omfg...it's like it is welded on. will take somewhere to get these loose and torqued correctly. 1st time I've tried to change oil. supposedly it was changed one other time before i took ownership. i have to agree it is important to remove all with proper tools and torque correctly. according to specs for toy camry should be 30 lbft drain plug 10 lbft for small 3/8 plug(cap) and 20 lbft for the housing, so yes someone incorrectly torqued this or it would not be coming loose with the 3/8 hole on the cap.
You so funny. "It gonna be a lot of oil dripping down...that's not a good thing."
there is any special tool designed for removing the cap?
+Boris Garcia You can go to any autoparts store and ask for a "oil filter removal tool."
Great thanks so much
Will a strap oil filter tool work, where you wrap the nylon strap around the filter, and then stick a 1/2" drive ratchet in the metal hole on the tool to remove it?
Best oil filter cap wrench for this application and with the best reviews...
www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Motivx&qid=1592776530&sr=8-2
@@njsongwriter Thank you
I came here to see what the little plastic thing that comes with the filter is for. So i guess we just throw it away. I just hope its not an important bypass valve or something.
The problem with your method is that if the little cap moves and the big filter housing stays stuck , they you're stuck and have to run to the dealer to get the wrench for the housing .
That's not really a problem because if that little cap moves, you can still drain the oil out and you still need a wrench for the housing anyway. Actually, let me correct that, you won't need a wrench for the housing as a large adjustable wrench/pliers would do. It's not too hard to open up the housing anyway.
vuaeco of
They sell the wrench to remove the filter housing at Walmart for $4.44
humm I feel like I can do it myself now. hehe
What oil did you used and how many thousand miles because the old oil looks still fine not black to change?
X L It depends on the oil you use, synthetic gives you 5000 miles before replacing. Most of the cars now use synthetic, old cars have you the choice to house non synthetic, but the replacement is every 3000 miles. Hope was helpful.
@@eddo1717 which oil do you recommend for my sienna 2008? what brand and specifications? thanks
@igorrosales1799 Hi. I will use synthetic the density you have in the oil cap. If the vehicle is more than 100k I will use high millage oil. I used mobil oil high millage with a filter for synthetic oil, but I don't change the density that manufactured recomends.
@@eddo1717 Thanks a lot, yeah I did exactly that, bought the mobil 1 high mileage sae 5w30, my van has 175k miles
can you change the filter only without draining oil? i dont want 2 quarts on floor or drained
Wonder how many engines were damaged following the instructions? He didnt use the plastic drain for the filter assy.. Didnt use the Wrench to remove the filter housing and didnt replace the crush washer or drain the oil pan.. Was more like instructions on what not to do..
8 years and over 200,000 miles, it's still kicking.
STAY AWAY from Toyota dealerships (goes double for Richardson TX) especially for anything ...they sold my Dad 3 timing belts in less than 5 years. Screwing a senior citizen suffering from a failing repertory system.
Dad drive a lot? I replace at 130,000 miles on the old Japanese assembled Camry and the belt looks new. Still should not go by looks, supposed to replace around 80,0000 miles. Anyway did the belt and water pump myself. Yeah had to fabricate a special tool, too cheap to buy one. Mechanic could do it in about 4 hours, no idea how they could do it that fast. I needed 2 days for the first time, nice and slow.
mark rouse
Hey dude.. lookup Buk Lu Lu on OwnagePranks lol
You're late to the party.
this type of filter is used to reduce waste and cost. there is really zero reason to ship a papper filter in a steel housing. with housing being a reusable part you can just pay for a paper cartridge. much like air filters worked for half centuary
The cartridge is for vans manufactured in Canada only. American models should use traditional filters.
Actually sometime between 2008 and 2009 Toyota went to a cartridge filter and canister housing. The 2.5 4 banger got the glorious plastic polymer canister cap and the v6 on most got the aluminum counter part. Why they were not all aluminum is beyond me as many have problems with the plastic polymer type caps cracking over time.
My American 2007 Toyota Sienna has the cartridge filter too.
@@Like_Video01
Spin-on filters are canister filters.
You missed the oil plug to actually drain completely. Also you need to tighten the outer jacket, using square drive to tighten from middle is going to ruin your whole set. Guys please don't follow this. Car nut guy or Scotty Kilmer may have some videos on this on RUclips.
Jumping steps the people not learn.
what accent is this, its so bizarre
+nick chiappini
My great great grand ancestor came from Africa over 10,000 years ago. They migrated to Europe, Asia, and even America (mind you, Columbus is NOT the first guy to find America). So my accent is actually a mix of African, European, Asian, and American. That's why it sounds so "bizarre"! :eek:
sorry for asking, thanks for the video
+nick chiappini betNam but it not bizarre accent isn't a language. thanks for the video
The reason the entire oil filter cap came off when you tried to remove the drainplug on the oil filter cap is because someone over-torqued the drainplug on the oil filter cap.
OIL CHANGE TORQUE Specs...
Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m/30 ft lbs
Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m/18 (±3.5) ft lbs
Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m/10 ft lbs
You might want to try this again when you learn how to do it by the book... What do you think? I've been changing oil for 66 years but have only done the cartridge system four times. I'm ready to do my own video (by the book).
You skipped a step. Removing the cap... Cheater
Right wtf
👎👎👎👎👎👎
What size sockets, ratchets and ratchet extensions should I get for this procedure? Thank you!