Rebuilding my tractor puller. Piston modifications. Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- EBay listing for anchorlube: www.ebay.co.uk...
In this video I make a start on the rebuild of my tractor puller engine. I’m using fresh pistons this time so they need to be modified to lower the compression ratio. To get the compression ratio down to the required amount I needed to remove metal from the valve cut outs. Removing it from the valve cut outs also has the benefit of more piston to valve clearance now that the cam has been given more lift.
To machine some material away, I set the pistons up on the milling machine. Plan A didn’t work as the cutter I ordered turned out to be the wrong size. So, I had to come up with a plan B. I set the piston up so the valve cut out was inline with the spindle then offset the table and used the rotary table to achieve the 45mm diameter cut needed.
After all the pistons were done on the milling machine, I used the lathe to turn 1mm off the diameter of the piston down to the top ring, this is done to stop the piston from seizing in the bore when the piston expands from the extra heat created by running a lot more power.
The block is then glaze busted to remove the surface rust from the bores and the top rings are placed in to measure the ring gap.
Hope you found this interesting.
Thanks for watching.
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A young man and HP....Well if you need any US support let us know. I might get to ship you something when the wife is not looking. You need to put up a list of what you need. Your a fine young man and you should get the tools you need. Let us know. Best and thanks for letting us stop by.
I built engines and race cars for over 30 years and always love seeing horse power being made. Great video as always! Thanks for sharing 😊
Funny in these comments how everyone always loves saying for how long they’ve been doing things.
Good video as always. Thank you.
The new vertical sharp edge along the outside of the valve relief will heat much faster than the rest of the piston. Possibly melting and making a mess of the cylinder walls and/or creating premature detonation.
Consider cutting the sharp edge back so that its cross section is at least as thick as the "fixed spacers" between the piston rings.
Also remove that thin step left in the cylinder wall. Same reasoning.
Excellent. In bed with my first coffee and a new Snowball video.
Well, if it didn’t wok I’d never know. Watching you cut those pistons “old school” was absolutely cool. I have real issues trusting computers with out a human touch “ it feels alright” sez more than a machine ever could.
That's a pretty fancy engine stand with the gearbox on it. A bought engine stand just rotates by hand and a pin goes in it to hold it from rotating.
The camera on the rotary table at 22:00 is awesome. Well done
Hi Oliver. I've given you an insight into the things I've done over the years as an engineer. The one thing I've never done, believe it or not, is strip down an engine. Not unless you count replaceing a blown piston on my sons 2 stroke go-cart, which in effect is a lawn mower with a seat and extra wheels, but apart from that, nothing.
Seeing you alter the compression ratio was not only good to watch, but it really could not have come at a better time. You see, I have the same issue. Either I lower compression or buy a new engine. I thought of replacing the pistons, but I like to solve problems, not take the easy route.
I will explain how I came to this situation.
About 3 years ago, my friend was doing a barn conversion in Essex for a customer. Initially, I was there to offer advice on what type of plates and rod were needed to secure the beams. Then, a week later, I returned because I had a diesel forklift, which my friend needed the use of, and i was happy to help. We had to remove large pieces of machinery and engines that completely filled the barn.
We ended up filling 3 large skips with straw, hay, dirt, dust, and all sorts of farm rubbish accumulated over god knows how many years. We also filled a 40-foot flat bed loaded with 4 rusty old chassis, 12 car, and / or truck engines plus a load of body parts and wheels.
We also found 1x horse pulled bailing machin, we think from the 1920s. 1x ploughing device powered by horses pulling on a rope through pullys placed top and bottom of a field. This is thought to be from the mid-1800s. 1x mechanical belt driven industrial size butter churn we think from the 1930s. These three are collectable and worthy of good money at auction. Then, 6 hours and 40 minutes later, we finally emptied the barn of our last find. An old Ford tractor hidden away in the corner that my friend said i could have. I say hidden but more about that in a moment.
The same friend of mine purchased a power boat recently, which i helped him with. Then, last weekend, we removed the pair of Perkins diesel engines because he wanted to upgrade the power performance to petrol.
In exchange for me helping him plus, making some plates to secure the two Mercury marine V8 300hp engines to the rear of the boat in effect, doubling the power of what was, he gave me the two diesel engines as payment. I think he forgot about the old tractor.
According to the paperwork, the boat was built in America in 1992 and shipped to Britain later that year for the Southampton Boat Show. It was purchased at the show and then converted to race standard by the owner in 1995. The original Cummmins engines were later removed in 1999 to make way for two British six cylinder 5.8L turbocharged diesel engines. These were built by Perkins of Peterborough. The Perkins engines were an upgrade providing more power, more top speed as well as being more reliable. The last time the boat was raced was in 2003, but since then, it has been covered up in an old shed.
My friend needs to upgrade the hull to deal with the extra power torque and customise the body, but because he's now attaching two outboards, the rear of the boat needs to be reinforced too, which is where I come in.
As for the 2 Perkins engines.
I had what the Americans call a Barn Find. According to the plate on the chassis, it's a Ford Tractor built in 1941, but most of the plate is unreadable. I don't have any paperwork, but when I asked my local Ford car dealership to help, they just asked for the serial number and any other numbers from plates found on the chassis or bodywork which I gave them.
Some days later, I got a call from the Ford dealership with good news. The Tractor is called a 'Fordson' Model 9N built in the USA in 1941, but it was shipped over to England sometime during 1942 with 49 others. Not long after that, Ford gave licence for their Fordson N series to be built in England, in Dagenham, Essex, to be exact. Licence was given because Hitlers U-boats (submarines) were sinking most of the ships in the Atlantic, causing millions of tonnes of valuable cargo to be lost.
So, the history is. My friend and I came across the Ford Tractor when renovating an old 18th-century barn. The whole farm and its land were split up and sold off in sections. The new owners of the farmhouse and barn, together with several outbuildings, contracted my friend to convert their barn into a studio of sorts. What for exactly, we have no idea, although some soundproofing is to be used.
Anyway, my friend thought of me and gave it in lou with the payment of some work he needed doing on his next project, the power boat. Sadly, there is no engine, but beneath the piles of dirt, dust, and heaps of bird droppings is a great chassis with little to no rust. What rust there is will dissappear once sanded down and repainted.
As for engine use. I was advised to either lower the compression on the Perkins or buy a less powerful engine unless i wanted to pull wheelies or do burnouts. The thing is, the engines were basically free! The paperwork confirms they were built in 1998 in Peterborough and sold the same year. Were they made to order, who knows. But the difference between converting a marine engine to agricultural use is dead simple.
Marine engines come as petrol or diesel. A petrol marine engine is as rugged as a car diesel engine, and a marine diesel engine is more rugged again. That is because a marine engine is always under load. A car or truck can coast along with only a small amount of wind resistance for load, but a marine engine has water resistance to deal with and which is constant. Had my friend wanted to use an agricultural engine to power his boat, then quite possibly, the engine would not last as long as a marine one would and be nowhere as fast. That's it in a nut shell, really.
Now, I have two identical 5.8L turbocharged diesel engines which, if I play my cards right, will power my Tractor for generations. All I need to do now is decrease the compression ratio and wham!
I just hope my calculations are correct, and I hope that I don't remove more than is necessary. If I damage the pistons or any other part of the engine, then I have a complete spare. So check twice, check three times, and check during the process, just as you did Oliver.
Can't wait for part 2 so I can start my conversion. 🤘⚒️🏴
Ah, “Leyland” a bit of history there 😊
Nice Job I haven't got a clue about most of what you done there well above my skill level good to watch Thanks again
What a cool project! Looking forward to the startup of this one, Mr Snowball!
Human ingenuity at its finest. Where there's a will there's a way. 👍
You remain a master of improvisation / “field expedience”
Well done, again 🙌
I like the camera on the rotary table. Nice touch 😄
nice recovery from the wrong size cutter in the end got it done took a little longer but nice finish for sure and yes mate we do like this sort of content so anytime you have to do a bit on the old tractor is fine by me for sure just love all the work you do as you have a different approach to jobs as they come in and are not shi to try soma diferent away from the normal way of doing it things like the loader arm instead of line boring welding and such you cut new plates with the crect holes in them weld em on and job done you have a young man's approach to work which has been stuck in it's ways then Along Comes Snow again i say thank you for taking the time to set the camera so we get a look see as setting this thing up takes time and gets in the way but you work with it THANKS Cheers
Really enjoyed this weeks episode and as interesting as always keep them coming 😊
Well that's definitely a different video from the normal fabricating. Made for a very interesting watch , a little insight into the tractor pulling mods on the engines . A great description of how and why . Just shows it's not just a case of pop another bigger lump into the vehicle. Some nice delicate work on the pistons just shows how much finesse the mill can give . And it also shows how quick a cylinder can flash rust
Great video 👍 Another option is to create a setup with the CNC plasma table , holding jig platform and a cheap manually operated router head lots of fun and make a great video 😊
Interesting project, time consuming on the machining but it's your own project so less important. Oh so nice to be able to see without reading glasses ! I can't see anything small without them. Thanks for sharing your progress on this job. Brian from South Yorkshire.
I like tractor pulling. Often go to NTTO competitions (Dutch Truck and Tractor Pulling Organization) here in the Netherlands. So I really enjoy these kinds of videos.
Awesome job Oliver! I enjoy your fabrication videos, but I also enjoy these different videos as well. Thanks for bringing us along!
I got BMC 5.1 which is the smaller version of BMC 5.7 which both are earlier design for Leyland 6/98. Leyland block is stronger, sleeves are thicker because 100mm sleeves were prone to rust cavitation. They went with 98mm sleeve and increased the stroke to retain the 5.7 liter displacement. Also they upgraded to gears instead of timing chain.
It is totally different engine, but many parts are still compatible.
Anyway I got Minimec with 9.5mm elements and it has plenty of power, but I also got Zexel waiting it's new home 😉
Thanks for the Anchorlube heads up, been wanting to get some for a long time having seen so many in the US raving about it.
Great video! Glad to see I’m not the only one who uses their cell phone for assembly reference! Keep up the good work and Be Safe!
Looking forward to more videos on the tractor build. Brilliant! Cheers.
The first time I saw an engine stand with a gear to turn the engine was made by an old mechanic who used the shaft of an s cam and a slack adjuster. It turns the engine slower than yours but it takes very little effort
Iam glad you know what you are doing. I have no idea. But, I really enjoy watching your application of your skills. Enjoyable video once again. Thank you.
Another great video. Thanks. Interesting change of content - very interesting indeed. Thanks for the shout out Oliver 👍. M&N
Interested in watching you build the motor for your tractor. This is great!
aahh, coffee time, interesting work on the heads of the pistons there Snow. 👍👍👍👍
Always the highlight of my Sunday morning. Cheers
Variety is the spice of life Oliver , very apt in your videos , Keep up the good work fella,
Bardzo duże wyzwanie co do modyfikacji diesla. Skoro mówisz że nigdy takich rzeczy nie robiłeś to podziwiam Twoją pomysłowość i odwagę , przecież chcesz aby silnik pracował i spełniał oczekiwania. Twoje podejście do wprowadzenia zmian daje Ci pewną nadzieję że wszystko się powiedzie, przecież Twoja praca polega na próbach których do końca nie jesteś pewien. Życzę powodzenia i oczekuję dalszych filmów które mnie zawsze inspirują. Pozdrawiam Marian.!😀
We all look forward to hearing that thing making max power!
I don't think you are alone Ollie, I think most of us have bought something that we thought was right because the description given was what we wanted, only to find out it wasn't. Unfortunately where I live most of what were farms have either been sold off for housing or industrial development, there doesn't seem to be an interest in tractor pulling events. The only locations appear to be up in the north of England or in Scotland, there doesn't appear to be anything where I live in Southampton. Bet the sound of those tractors is amazing. 👍
Would like to see more on this build up and what goes into building a tractor puller.
I always enjoy seen how other people set up jobs, my solution to the cutter being too small would have been to change the tool out to a boring head to take the last 5mm out I'm not sure if it would have been any quicker just a different way to solve the problem. I will look forward to seeing the rest of the rebuild
Another timely reminder that Sunday has arrived and Mr Snowball lectures us on "SPEED & POWER." Another brilliant video is Olly and another showcase of your limitless skills
Definitely keep filming this build as you go mate. Cracking content 👍🏻
Fantastic of course I am very interested I loved to see it in action be awesome 👌 👍
Good idea using the rotary table, sucks that you had to, but good idea.
A suggestion to not have parts on the rotary table = make yourself a pallet plate from a chunk of aluminium. Seriously underused on rotary tables, but super useful. You can then bolt your parts from multiple locations, for example with a pallet, you could've used one of the wrist pins to grab unto the piston from either side using a bolt and some angle iron. It really does open the fixturing capabilities.
Since the periphery of the cut is interrupted by both the OD of the piston and the central depression anyhow, I first thought you were going to do two vertical cuts slightly offset from each other and simply ignore the small difference in radius. But your method is neater.
Very interested in the re-build. Thank you for the interesting videos. Regards, Dave (Canada)
Hi Oliver, Another awesome video young man.
Looking forward to seeing it all up and running.
From kiwi land.
You`re definitely a jack of all trades. Great video.
Nice to see a Leyland. I've had two - a 270 and a late 384 which I've just rebuilt the engine on.
I was surprised that you didn't put the pin in the pistons and secure them that way
Being a retired small engine mechanic by trade, I've never worked on a diesel engine. With petrol engines, we aim for a 45° cross hatch when honing a bore and the standard top ring gap is 4 though per inch of bore, or with a performance engine 4.5 thou per inch of bore.
Just like Kurtis's Sunnen honing machine ( North Yorkshire stylee )About time with the sponsorship!! When you mentioned the US only website I was waiting for a SurfShark ad 🤣
A clever solution to a supply chain problem but it might have been worth buying a boring bar and setting that up to cut the 45mm reliefs. Entertaining all the same and keep up the good work!
Once heard someone say that when you run in the speed trials at Bonneville salt flats that it doesn't matter what speed you get to , because next year you'll want to go quicker. That must be the same with tractor pulling. You only have to do it once and then you're addicted for life.😮
Thank you sir to drop another video sunday morning, thank you for sharing, another great job , great teacher and explanation are awesome 👍👍👍👍
Good morning Oliver
Very Interesting.
I’d have beeen tempted to use the rotary table to elongate the cut out to 45mm but what do I know. 🤠
I’m guessing the cubic size of the compression chamber is the important bit. Being exactly round might not be that important to the flow of gasses in and out of the valves. Just an observation, I have no idea really. Looking forward to exploding fuel in there to see what happens.
A good tip I learned was to wipe the cylinder walls with a clean rag and automatic transmission fluid just before final assembly. I guess it has some detergents that clean the final bits of debris very well.
Great video Oliver I enjoyed that, there are some amazing Tractors out there on the Tractor Pulling Scene
Man of many talents Oliver great video👍🏻
Nice video , sounds like a it’s blowing a a full gale out they by the sound in the background!
I love this kind of stuff! Awesome video. And you will love the anchorelube!
Another great Sunday morning video Oĺly Thanks
Hope you can get that ice water from your veins into the heads on that tractor, great vid
Be sure to chamfer the sharp edges on the pistons. In petrol engines, sharp engine can cause pre-ignition, but I don't know if this is an issue with diesel engines?
Hello from New Zealand
12:06 you could have done the same thing with the lathe and 4 jaw chuck if youwas without a mill.
38:57 Ooh, tractor looks angry!!
Always a ball ache even on your own project’s 😮💨 that’s why enjoy worts n all videos 😀
Reminded me of an old Kenny Everett joke. A biker showed up at his girlfriends house, late for a date. She said what's the excuse this time? He said "Piston broke", she said " Pissed and broke, nothing new there then". The old ones are the best 😉 Interesting use of the rotary, it worked so it's good. Take care 👍
I have used anchor lube since my aerospace days 40 years ago. It excels on stainless steel. In the shop we called it "frog p__s"... haha
You can make your own pair of ring pliers. When i broke mine, didn't even bother with fixing them or buying new ones. Cut some sheet on the plasma table, make the base of the pliers, then machine two V shaped blocks and weld them to the tips. Those V shaped blocks are where the ring ends fit, the taper holding them straight and true so they don't snap. If you google ring pliers, you'll find the type i'm talking about. Works really well.
They cost next to nothing for a cheap pair. I don’t do many engines but it’s so much easier
IMO I would not have removed material from the OD of the piston above the top ring to lower compression this will expose the ring to more heat and the ring will loose its tension. The area above the top ring is made smaller already to compensate for expansion when the pistons are new.Also the more heat the ring sees the more it will expand, most ring manufactures use .004 thousands of end gap per inch of bore in NA engines. High performance or Boosted engines the gaps will be more say .0045-.005 thousands per inch of bore. Thanks
Hi Oliver good video as usual,could ii suggest to you a channel called shipbuilder welder it's from Korea just to show how they deal with fabrication and welding techniques you will be surprised they make You're work like a fine jeweler 😂 take care and all the best to the farming community 🙏🏴🇬🇧🚜🚜
Lovely change of pace :)
You ought to have made a fixture plate machined to suit one piston first, then you can use it to easily position the rest. A scrap piece of ally plate fixed to the rotary table face, and then a recess bored in the centre to fit each piston into, drilled and tapped to accept fixing clamp studs. Fixture plates are the millers dream when multiple parts have to be machined, to make set up quick and easily repeatable.
Actually revisiting this it might have been just as easy to turn the tops of the pistons down to provide the requisite combustion chamber volume as the valves are a,ready clear of the piston crown and there would be less risk of fine elements that could course pre ignition problems.
There’s no issue with pre ignition with a diesel
People never underestimate Oliver he is ok
A reduced diameter at the top of the piston will have the detriment of letting more hot gas contact the top ring and it will also get hotter, and therefore allow less heat from the piston to transfer to the cylinder head. Not a negative comment just something to add.
It’s a common thing to do in the tractor pulling world
@@snowballengineering I've never heard of that being done before, but I've only ever worked on pretty standard petrol engines.
Amazing work Mr Snowball!
Now Oliver has his own project
cool mate, id love to see the build progression
As always, a pleasure to watch.
Hello from TEXAS!
Just noticed you have a set of 4 of the Vevor machinery skates. I got a set last year, they work well enough, but I would recommend that you take out the shoulder bolt that secures the rotating pad and fit a length of M12 studding. You can then fasten the skates to the machine through the holes for the machines holding down bolts. If you don't do it, the skates really do take on a life of their own and head in any direction, but the one you want. I also made up a couple of bars from 16mm cold rolled, machined down to 14mm and bent at the ends to fit in the tubes on the end of the skates to steer them. Beware that there are about 50 5mm ball bearings loose under the rotating pad that will go everywhere given half a chance, don't ask me how I know.
“Don’t ask me how I know!” Sure sign one is speaking from first hand knowledge.😁 BeSafe!
@@allenbrown7820 Yep; and trying to find them all on a workshop floor is a bit of a bugger. Fortunately, they were pretty well greased and stuck to the muck on the floor. I had swept it so we could move the mill and the lathe without there being crap on it, but still enough to stop the balls rolling everywhere.
Hi Oliver, great video , lots of interesting stuff , I’d like to see more on the Leyland project, liked your engine stand , was thinking of doing something similar for my 4/98 engine but wondered if the block could take the weight , I think you proved the point as the 6/98 is quite a bit heavier and longer. Thanks. P.s good looking grille on the Leyland too.
This was certainly a different video to your usual videos, but interesting nonetheless. I've seen a bit of tractor pulling on TV years ago, so it will be interesting to see how you go this season.
Watching you machine the pistons I wonder if the thin edges will create hot spots on the tops of them. But interesting all the same... Thumbs Up!
Nice work. A squirt of WD isnt a bad lube when cutting aluminium and everyone has a can somewhere.
It may be wise to weigh each one to make sure they end up the same weight. Essential for a balanced engine.
Thanks for another good video olly
great vid bud very interesting
Something a bit different today Olly !
I wonder if it might have been a bit faster/easier offset mounting your 3 jaw in the lathe's 4 jaw, pop a piston in and line up the cutout with that little plunger you had, fitted in the tailstock ?
A bit of WD40 helps with the finish when cutting aluminium too.
Be interesting to see how the Anchorlube works. I tend to use Rocol stuff mostly in the shop, but still have an old tin of Trefolex that lives in my site bag.
Surprised you didn't go for a decompression plate.
Hi Oliver, interesting setup on machining the valve pockets, I take it your going to boost the engine, either turbo or blower, what kind of boost pressure will you run to give a safe compression ratio, for reliability. Or are you taking it close to its mechanical limit and hope it holds together, it will be interesting to see ,and hear it running. Thanks for another interesting video mate, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
1,404👍's up SBE thank you for sharing 🤗
Hope that's a later 698 I did so many terrier/boxer head gaskets it wasn't funny, guess you guy's have worked out how to get the spinney bit's to stay on the inside great vid Oliver
I’m using a solid copper head gasket with fire rings machined into the head.
Hi Oliver, interesting video, it, in my ignorance how does reducing the comp. ratio increase the power, is the bigger fuel injection pump the answer ? I do enjoy your videos, if I lived nearer I’d come and help you for nothing. A T B Clifford
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻
Interesting Oliver.
Thanks 👍🏻
Sorry forgot to say another great video👍🏴
Hello from Thailand.😊
Hello 👋🏻
diesel love high compresion only need a good tuner, and wather to air intercooler, to have low as posible intake temp.