That's a brilliant idea! I also have the GTS 10 XC and I had that problem originally. However I think I've had sawdust fall into the gaps underneath the t-track runners and expand with humidity so the runners are now very tight!
Thanks, perfect timing, I also have a little play on my new saw :) I was thinking on adjusting the right plastic runner to right and the left runner a bit left, I think the screws and the holes would allow that, this way (in theory) the two outside edge would keep the sled in line.
Yep, this works fine. Takes a couple of minutes and removes all play. You have to remove little plastic stop block to get to the 2 bolts closest to the front.
6 лет назад+3
How long did this fix work? Won‘t the paint get away very quick?
Very good video thanks you. I have just received my saw back from Bosch UK under guarantee. They have changed the sliding table section so it is now firm and does not rack from side to side. They have also raised the level of the sliding section to align with the surrounding table area. The verticality of the saw blade is still a problem but I'm sure after more adjustment and test pieces of wood the problem can be sorted. However there is still the problem of the sliding mitre fence which is very inaccurate, I intend to coat it with several layers of clear lacquer hoping that will fix it for the next project. I did ask Bosch to comment on why no flexible to the riving knife hood and Y piece is available to connect to the main extraction tube at the back of the saw. No comment was received.
realy like you fix.I have similar problem but not with the aluminium track,but the plastic runners that go in the track.three of the runners move freely ,but the four one is jamming.Any ideas?
Hallo Die Lackiererei kann man sich ersparen. Ich habe einfach die beiden Führungsschienen im Toleranzbereich der Schrauben leicht weiter von einander befestigt. Mit etwas Gespür kann man es gut justieren. Resultat: Null Spiel. Zeitaufwand gute 10 Minuten.
Basically if you look at price of this saw ;you can't expect mush as far as slide quality. Its a contractor saw and really good sliding mostly used for production cost in 4K range. Aluminum table tops are not well suited for sliding saw design anyway.
very good and useful video. Anyway , is it normal to get saw dust coming out from the back of the riving knife when cutting with the hose connected ect? if it shouldn't come out , How can I stop it from coming out?
Great video, thank you I have the same saw and unfortunately the top is not flat, the sled sits a bit higher than the rest of the table. Did you ever run a straight edge on the top to try yours?
yes, I would have preferred the table top without the slide, like this: www.amazon.com/Bosch-4100-09-10-Inch-Worksite-Gravity-Rise/dp/B000S5S5CW/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1489299659&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+table+saw
Hi! Danke für dein informatives Video. An meiner nagelneuen GTS 10 XC tritt das Problem leider auch auf. Kannst du evtl. schon etwas zur Langlebigkeit deines Fixes sagen? Ich könnte mir vorstellen, dass der Lack mit der Zeit wieder abgerieben wird, und das Spiel dann wieder zu nimmt? Viele Grüße, Matthias
+abdef0000 bis jetzt ist noch alles Tipp Topp. Ich habe ja nicht nur den Lack aufgetragen, sondern auch neu verspannt.... Das dürfte ein Weilchen herhalten. Ich berichte, falls sich der Zustand ändern sollte!
Hallo, ich habe mir auch diese Säge bestellt und warte schon ganz gespannt darauf. Die Toleranz im Schiebeschlitten scheint der größte Mangel an der Säge zu sein und wird oft kritisiert. Deine Anleitung scheint da eine gute Möglichkeit zur Abhilfe zu sein. Verstehe ich das richtig, dass du im Prinzip die Kunststoffgleiter mit dem Lack quasi in der Breite aufgepolstert hast? Danke schön mal dafür und natürlich Daumen hoch und Abo da gelassen. Viele Grüße Dietmar aus NRW
+ditzej Hallo Dietmar! Das ist richtig... Jede Seite der Einsätze hat drei Schichten Klarlack bekommen. Genauso wichtig ist aber das Ausrichten der Schienen. Ich musste die äußere Schiene etwa 0,5 Millimeter versetzen, damit der ganze Schlitten spielfrei und parallel zum Sägeblatt läuft.
Michael Morris That's true, but this saw is aimed to be a worksite saw, not a fine woodworking one. It's still a great quality for the money and with minor adjustments is also suitable for woodworking.
Thanks! I recently bought this model and of course noticed the play. Very annoying. I read about this fix which gave me the idea of simply replacing the whole sled with a new metal plate, with a standard t-slot instead of the useless proprietry t-slot. Anyone tried this? I'm integrating the tablesaw with my worktable, and using a crosscut sled, so there is no use for the factory sled function anyway.
@@LetsBuildSomething I'm planning on doing that. This weekend I'll finalize the CAD model and then give the files to a local CNC shop for manufacturing.
Aren't you worried that the lacker will wear off and the wobble will be back? I just happened to see a different solution this afternoon that's probably a bit more permanent here: ruclips.net/video/mPkwIG7og44/видео.html
Yes, Mathias nailed it! But I'm a little bit scared to do it like this... you realy need to be very very carefully... otherwise you'll run in a lot of trouble.
There is no need to fix it. If you hold pressure on the sled keeping against one side of the runner . It works fine. It’s not any more bother and easy to get used to doing. But if you want to spray gunk all over the runner’s and muck about resetting it. Then go ahead. My motto if it’s not broken don’t fix it . When you start taking things apart it doesn’t always go well.
@@LetsBuildSomething I`m aware of the limitations of a job site saw but some things just arent right. 1. The t-slots are not perfect .... When I build a sled, it`s almost impossible to create a rail that will slide perfectly in the slot. 2. The XC sliding table movement is extremely limited, making it impossible to cut anything but the smallest boards. 3. The red blade cover is not straight. 4. The fence is twisted (I had attached a plywood board to mine). All of these things (except #3) have nothing to do with size. For the price it costs, I`d like to get something accurate.
That's better - a quick learner! It took me a couple of views to understand what was happening though. I assume you're using the lacquer to enlarge the slider, so it fits more tightly? And the wood pieces are just to hold the slider for spraying? Why not use masking tape? BTW, while I'm here, it's QUICKFIX, not QUCKFIX! ;¬)
+abrutility thanks mate. Yes, with the lacquer the slides fit more tightly. I used a jig because I wanted the lacquer only on the sides of the slides and the jig easily holds the slides also.
That's a brilliant idea! I also have the GTS 10 XC and I had that problem originally. However I think I've had sawdust fall into the gaps underneath the t-track runners and expand with humidity so the runners are now very tight!
+Kris Mark Duthie thank you very much for your feedback! Great that your saw heals itself :-)
Thanks, perfect timing, I also have a little play on my new saw :) I was thinking on adjusting the right plastic runner to right and the left runner a bit left, I think the screws and the holes would allow that, this way (in theory) the two outside edge would keep the sled in line.
+Laszlo Girus This could work, but keep in mind to keep the sled parallel to the blade!
Yep, this works fine. Takes a couple of minutes and removes all play. You have to remove little plastic stop block to get to the 2 bolts closest to the front.
How long did this fix work? Won‘t the paint get away very quick?
Cool gelöst - ärgert mich an meiner GTS auch - wird ich gleich mal fixen. Danke.
Very good video thanks you. I have just received my saw back from Bosch
UK under guarantee. They have changed the sliding table section so it is
now firm and does not rack from side to side. They have also raised the
level of the sliding section to align with the surrounding table area.
The verticality of the saw blade is still a problem but I'm sure after
more adjustment and test pieces of wood the problem can be sorted.
However there is still the problem of the sliding mitre fence which is
very inaccurate, I intend to coat it with several layers of clear
lacquer hoping that will fix it for the next project.
I did ask Bosch
to comment on why no flexible to the riving knife hood and Y piece is
available to connect to the main extraction tube at the back of the saw.
No comment was received.
realy like you fix.I have similar problem but not with the aluminium track,but the plastic runners that go in the track.three of the runners move freely ,but the four one is jamming.Any ideas?
I dropped in a 2mm shim (oak) almost the length of the sliding table. That took out the play, and the slide action is still smooth.
Thank you again for your information provided about this saw
If your looking for your MasterCard, its on the corner of your bench.
Hallo
Die Lackiererei kann man sich ersparen. Ich habe einfach die beiden Führungsschienen im Toleranzbereich der Schrauben leicht weiter von einander befestigt. Mit etwas Gespür kann man es gut justieren. Resultat: Null Spiel. Zeitaufwand gute 10 Minuten.
+klepokus Super! Danke für Dein Feedback!
thanks very helpfull
Is there a way to align the blade on the 4100? I assume its similar to your table saw. My blade is no aligned to the miter slot.
Basically if you look at price of this saw ;you can't expect mush as far as slide quality. Its a contractor saw and really good sliding mostly used for production cost in 4K range. Aluminum table tops are not well suited for sliding saw design anyway.
Hi, did you come up with a fix for the play in the mitre gauge?
very good and useful video. Anyway , is it normal to get saw dust coming out from the back of the riving knife when cutting with the hose connected ect? if it shouldn't come out , How can I stop it from coming out?
Hey David. I also experienced that... but it's not that much. I depends on how fast I cut... If I go slow I can bear it :-)
Hi and thx,bot what about the fence fix u said?
Nice video, very useful !! 👍🏻
Gracias por compartir ... Intentare traducir . Tengo una gts 10xc. Un saludo desde España
+Pedro Hernandez Gracias por su ayuda! :-)
Wont the laquer wear out though?
So far so good!
@@LetsBuildSomething And all you done was spray the edges, yes?
@@LetsBuildSomething And did you spray both sides of the plastic or just the one side?
So helpful. You have become the Bosch GTS 10XC guru on RUclips. Thank you !
+Bulwul thank you very much! I appreciate it! :-)
Thank's! Now I know what to do today! 👍
Great video, thank you
I have the same saw and unfortunately the top is not flat, the sled sits a bit higher than the rest of the table. Did you ever run a straight edge on the top to try yours?
Hey Adrian... just checked my saw and guess what... you're right! The sled is about 1mm higher than the rest of the table!
yes, I would have preferred the table top without the slide, like this: www.amazon.com/Bosch-4100-09-10-Inch-Worksite-Gravity-Rise/dp/B000S5S5CW/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1489299659&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+table+saw
Nice.. very useful 👌
Hi! Danke für dein informatives Video. An meiner nagelneuen GTS 10 XC tritt das Problem leider auch auf. Kannst du evtl. schon etwas zur Langlebigkeit deines Fixes sagen? Ich könnte mir vorstellen, dass der Lack mit der Zeit wieder abgerieben wird, und das Spiel dann wieder zu nimmt? Viele Grüße, Matthias
+abdef0000 bis jetzt ist noch alles Tipp Topp. Ich habe ja nicht nur den Lack aufgetragen, sondern auch neu verspannt.... Das dürfte ein Weilchen herhalten. Ich berichte, falls sich der Zustand ändern sollte!
Hallo,
ich habe mir auch diese Säge bestellt und warte schon ganz gespannt darauf. Die Toleranz im Schiebeschlitten scheint der größte Mangel an der Säge zu sein und wird oft kritisiert. Deine Anleitung scheint da eine gute Möglichkeit zur Abhilfe zu sein. Verstehe ich das richtig, dass du im Prinzip die Kunststoffgleiter mit dem Lack quasi in der Breite aufgepolstert hast?
Danke schön mal dafür und natürlich Daumen hoch und Abo da gelassen.
Viele Grüße
Dietmar aus NRW
+ditzej Hallo Dietmar! Das ist richtig... Jede Seite der Einsätze hat drei Schichten Klarlack bekommen. Genauso wichtig ist aber das Ausrichten der Schienen. Ich musste die äußere Schiene etwa 0,5 Millimeter versetzen, damit der ganze Schlitten spielfrei und parallel zum Sägeblatt läuft.
Respeckt, das war die schnellste Antwort die ich je bekommen habe. Vielen Dank und mach weiter so...👍
It stinks that we pay good money for a good table saw with manufacturing faults that need fixing!
Michael Morris That's true, but this saw is aimed to be a worksite saw, not a fine woodworking one. It's still a great quality for the money and with minor adjustments is also suitable for woodworking.
Thanks! I recently bought this model and of course noticed the play. Very annoying. I read about this fix which gave me the idea of simply replacing the whole sled with a new metal plate, with a standard t-slot instead of the useless proprietry t-slot. Anyone tried this? I'm integrating the tablesaw with my worktable, and using a crosscut sled, so there is no use for the factory sled function anyway.
You should definitely do a video about it!
@@LetsBuildSomething I'm planning on doing that. This weekend I'll finalize the CAD model and then give the files to a local CNC shop for manufacturing.
@@christertjernberg5848 Awesome Idea! Did you do this already?
Gues what i'm gonna do tomorrow ?;)
Thanks for this tip.
+Andreas Kalt you're welcome! :-)
Wenn sich zwei Deutsche auf englisch schreiben.....
THX for that review
Aren't you worried that the lacker will wear off and the wobble will be back? I just happened to see a different solution this afternoon that's probably a bit more permanent here: ruclips.net/video/mPkwIG7og44/видео.html
Yes, Mathias nailed it! But I'm a little bit scared to do it like this... you realy need to be very very carefully... otherwise you'll run in a lot of trouble.
There is no need to fix it. If you hold pressure on the sled keeping against one side of the runner . It works fine. It’s not any more bother and easy to get used to doing. But if you want to spray gunk all over the runner’s and muck about resetting it. Then go ahead. My motto if it’s not broken don’t fix it . When you start taking things apart it doesn’t always go well.
I have the same table saw. You know what I really like about it?
Almost nothing
Sorry to hear that... It's still a job site saw, you know. 😖
@@LetsBuildSomething I`m aware of the limitations of a job site saw but some things just arent right.
1. The t-slots are not perfect .... When I build a sled, it`s almost impossible to create a rail that will slide perfectly in the slot.
2. The XC sliding table movement is extremely limited, making it impossible to cut anything but the smallest boards.
3. The red blade cover is not straight.
4. The fence is twisted (I had attached a plywood board to mine).
All of these things (except #3) have nothing to do with size. For the price it costs, I`d like to get something accurate.
I saw it,sorry
Thank You for this good instruktion
+richi_rich Cacher.at you're welcome!
Dir ist schon klar, dass sich Klarlack im Laufe der Zeit abnutzt? ^^ Nichtsdestotrotz gefällt mir dein Einfallsreichtum! Schönes Video
Have no idea what he did to fix it
That's better - a quick learner!
It took me a couple of views to understand what was happening though. I assume you're using the lacquer to enlarge the
slider, so it fits more tightly? And the wood pieces are just to hold the slider for spraying? Why not use masking tape?
BTW, while I'm here, it's QUICKFIX, not QUCKFIX! ;¬)
+abrutility thanks mate. Yes, with the lacquer the slides fit more tightly. I used a jig because I wanted the lacquer only on the sides of the slides and the jig easily holds the slides also.
Not a very definitive description or demonstration