I like things basic and simple same as you. Basically the only thing that might be an improvement is a small chamfer at the bottom of the "hands on " fence for saw dust control.
A good presentation, overall. But a couple of comments: I'm 73 years old, and I'm definitely not 6' 2" tall and proportionately wide. All that 3/4" particle board looks like a heavy, awkward dead weight to schlep around.... I'd rather use 1/2" Baltic birch, and shrink the overall dimensions anyway. And using a dial gauge, I've found the average 10" saw blade isn't 100% flat. Placing a precision square against one, then rotating the blade 90 degrees and trying again, will often give you two different reads. I think you should be squaring off the kerf instead, and the longer the square the better.
Great video! I have a old craftsman table saw my dad bought back in the 70s. I refurbished it and it came out great! This spring I'm making this sled.... can't wait. Thanks 👍
Thanks this was helpful. While milling the walnut, all that I could think of was the pennies being shaved off of a $15 bf piece of lumber. Man, inflation.
Did you ever make that safety guard to cover the blade as it passes through the push fence? For me it’s an absolute must as it becomes way too dangerous without one.
I just came across your channel a few days ago. I plan to make this sled and love how easy you made it look. A question is with the rails on the bottom you left the front longer than the sled, but you cut the back even with the sled, is there a reason why the front extends past the sled?
Great videos. i am in the market for a new table saw and was wondering can someone explain the difference in a hybrid saw and cabinet saw, and what saw could I get that wont break the bank Thank you. and a again great videos.
Yep, you can use plywood. The key is to use flat material. Yes, I often remove the knife when using my sled because it sticks up slightly higher than the blade.
Agree 100% with your comments on the 5 cut method. Seems way overboard to me. Really doesn’t need to be that perfect for most work, and besides wood moves. Or things get bumped etc. as long as it’s very close it’s fine by me
@NickGranville, everybody has their comfort level. I would argue that because wood moves and because things get bumped and because of sawdust against the fence, etc that is exactly why it is important to be as accurate as you can in the beginning. Why compound other inaccuracies? Also, I think using a micrometer and feeler gauges is fun!! You can also just do the 5 cut method without all the math. Take a 12 x 12 sheet good and cut a sawblade off of it. Then rotate. Repeat 4 times. Now check your last corner for square. All the cuts just compound the inaccuracy of your fence. Adjust your fence about 1/4th of the total inaccuracy per foot of fence from the kerf. Wash rinse, repeat. Playing cards make good feeler gauges. Takes
I just came across this video, Billy and had to watch it. I really like this sled and it will probably be my go-to sled. How has the particle board held up over the past year or so? Take care. Bill
I would say the fence furthest away from the operator is the front , the operator is not pushing the sled backwards towards the blade. Also the operator’s eyes are looking forward , therefore they are pushing the sled forward to make the cut and pulling it backwards (towards them) after the cut. There must be something wrong with me to have put this much thought into it 😞. Anyway, great video.
You have gumption putting a video up on YT without a 5 cut method. I’d love to see how your sled equates to a 5 cut result. Would be crazy to see it dead on simply using a square.
I like this guy
I like things basic and simple same as you. Basically the only thing that might be an improvement is a small chamfer at the bottom of the "hands on " fence for saw dust control.
That would be a nice addition. It's something I should have done.
Agreed.
A good presentation, overall. But a couple of comments: I'm 73 years old, and I'm definitely not 6' 2" tall and proportionately wide. All that 3/4" particle board looks like a heavy, awkward dead weight to schlep around.... I'd rather use 1/2" Baltic birch, and shrink the overall dimensions anyway. And using a dial gauge, I've found the average 10" saw blade isn't 100% flat. Placing a precision square against one, then rotating the blade 90 degrees and trying again, will often give you two different reads. I think you should be squaring off the kerf instead, and the longer the square the better.
Great video! I have a old craftsman table saw my dad bought back in the 70s. I refurbished it and it came out great! This spring I'm making this sled.... can't wait. Thanks 👍
That's awesome brother, really like how you walked through this build, nicely done great project 👍
I see you used particle board. Has it lasted to date?
Great video man. I made a sled a while back and it gets the job done but it's definitely not perfect. I'll be using this video to make my next one.
Thanks this was helpful. While milling the walnut, all that I could think of was the pennies being shaved off of a $15 bf piece of lumber. Man, inflation.
Right there with you. Noooooo the walnut!
Great. Simple and functional. Thanks
Great video! I definitely need one myself 🙌🏼
@@NewtonMakes ohh i believe that!
Yes one like this 😊
I love what you do bro
Very nice. I like how "basic" it is. I'm curious though, why particle board instead of plywood?
Did you ever make that safety guard to cover the blade as it passes through the push fence? For me it’s an absolute must as it becomes way too dangerous without one.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
I just came across your channel a few days ago. I plan to make this sled and love how easy you made it look. A question is with the rails on the bottom you left the front longer than the sled, but you cut the back even with the sled, is there a reason why the front extends past the sled?
I believe it’s to make it easier to line up the slide with the miter slots when setting it in place.
Great videos. i am in the market for a new table saw and was wondering can someone explain the difference in a hybrid saw and cabinet saw, and what saw could I get that wont break the bank
Thank you. and a again great videos.
If you make sled slightly longer, you could just use a clamp to tune up the fence without lots of screw holes - or is that a bad idea?
do the extended rails allow you to start a cut further back from the blade, such as when crosscutting a wide board (cutting board, etc.)?
Can the bottom of the sled be made of 1/2" plywood or does it need to be MDF. Thanks in advance. Also did you remove the riving knife to use the sled?
Yep, you can use plywood. The key is to use flat material. Yes, I often remove the knife when using my sled because it sticks up slightly higher than the blade.
Agree 100% with your comments on the 5 cut method. Seems way overboard to me. Really doesn’t need to be that perfect for most work, and besides wood moves. Or things get bumped etc. as long as it’s very close it’s fine by me
@NickGranville, everybody has their comfort level. I would argue that because wood moves and because things get bumped and because of sawdust against the fence, etc that is exactly why it is important to be as accurate as you can in the beginning. Why compound other inaccuracies? Also, I think using a micrometer and feeler gauges is fun!!
You can also just do the 5 cut method without all the math. Take a 12 x 12 sheet good and cut a sawblade off of it. Then rotate. Repeat 4 times. Now check your last corner for square. All the cuts just compound the inaccuracy of your fence. Adjust your fence about 1/4th of the total inaccuracy per foot of fence from the kerf. Wash rinse, repeat. Playing cards make good feeler gauges. Takes
I just came across this video, Billy and had to watch it. I really like this sled and it will probably be my go-to sled. How has the particle board held up over the past year or so? Take care.
Bill
It's fantastic. I use it every single day and it functions like the first day I built it.
What did you use to wipe on the sled ?
Looks square cutting a 3" piece, how about one the depth of the fence limit say 20+ inches
I would say the fence furthest away from the operator is the front , the operator is not pushing the sled backwards towards the blade. Also the operator’s eyes are looking forward , therefore they are pushing the sled forward to make the cut and pulling it backwards (towards them) after the cut. There must be something wrong with me to have put this much thought into it 😞. Anyway, great video.
You have gumption putting a video up on YT without a 5 cut method.
I’d love to see how your sled equates to a 5 cut result. Would be crazy to see it dead on simply using a square.
It is 100% dead on. The 5 cut method is overkill for me.
Way so big?
I saw you putting the screw in the wrong place, but I had no way of telling you.