Thank you for the response, i just thought it would let people know how important it is to install the shock bumpers and check the travel. The axles will pinch in the output cups and bend. The coolest thing about the axles is the 12mm hexes have a set screw. It helped me get most of the slop out of my front end without using washers.
hey bro, great video as usual, loving this Slash series, cant wait to install these on my Platinum. *just wanted to share something* After reading a ton of forums, Jang from UltimateRC and some other guys recommended I try the Losi racing springs in my stock Platinum Shocks, they fit like they were tailor-made, allowed me to up my diff oil to 50w, and made an absolute enormous difference on track. LOSB2959 Front Racing Spring Set: TEN SCTE LOSB2963 Rear Racing Spring Set: TEN SCTE
They are spec'd for the Stampede, but.......if you're running a 3s (minimum system) I would get the MIP HD versions. It might be a bit more weight, but in your case, would be more bash worthy. Thanks for the great comments on the Slash!
Cool, they're a greta upgrade to the stock and more "race" inspried over the MIP HD's. I believe MIP also reeased a steel version of these recently as well. The reason for the aluminum is less rotational weight an quicker launch speeds
Rich, the stub axles are different as well, not just the out drives. I've had these since they came out and I've never lost a pin or a set screw. However I have broken a few pins causing the axels to deprecate. Just don't over tighten the set screw and you should be fine with a little locktite.
Rich thanks for the vids ive really been enjoying them ! I have had nuthing but problems with MIP shafts loosing there pins ive used blue and red locktite on them ,same problem ive called MIP and all theyve wanted to do was sell me more parts i ended up just trashing them and buying the traxxas shafts ,much better havent had a problem sence i hope you have better luck than me
I know, huh? It used to bother me at first, but I do these vids for the people that appreciate them like you. Since I interact with each and every comment maker, sometimes people get rude or obnoxious. So i have gathered a troll or two! It's all good though.
Absolutely. Alum would be great for some racing, but Id bend em quick "I think" Id love to hear some reviews after they have been put through their paces.
The Traxxas Arms has a pretty wide range of holes. with the stop telescoping driveshafts, they will all work. With a fixed CVD like the MIP, you are limited to just the 3 most common holes. I don't know that the MIP CVDs with work with the Pro-trac system
Were you running the newer Race Duty CVD's? They use a through pin on the outdirve from the diff and then a through pin with a flatened area for the set screw. MIP now includes their blue gel loctite, which has seemed to work. I used a commercial red loctite ion my X duty shafts for my scx10
Hey thanks Mojo! I was wondering which springs I would need for tuning. Having 2 SCTE's I have tons of springs, including the ones you mentioned. I also have the full set of MIP fronts as well.
Over 120 for the MIP full set.. You can get 4 full sets of the stock plastic ones... LOL, Id go stock kinda of a no brainer. Buddy had the MIP's and broke them in less than 2 weeks.
i spent 130 on these, bent two and broke 1, and i know what bashing and racing is, i wasn't even hard on it and it happend. sucks that i wasted the money, didnt last a week. sucks, i was excited about them!
+FrankieBFilms two things will destroy these CVD's - 1. How they're installed. There's very specific installation instructions as far as shock loaction and how they fit into the hubs. 2. How the person is driving/powerplant of the vehicle. These were released shorty before I made this video. Since then, there's been a release of the steel version, which most people should buy. The aluminum, although very lightweight and pretty durable, are very easy to bend and break if not properly installed and used in the right environment
There are steel race dutys out there now, right? Do the look exactly the sa,e as the aluminum ones? Also, are the ones on amazon "fake?" (As in, not made by mip) one more thing- will it work and work good to use trumpet valve oil to oil rc bearings for SCT racing? I play the trumpet, so I have LOADS of the stuff. And another thing- since I will be racing at an 8th scale off road track that allows the use of 3s lipos for SCT racing, will the steel mip race dutys in the sl4sh lcg hold up?
Good stuff Rich :o) Just bought a Slash 4x4 LCG with on board audio :o) So Lookin' to gain the knowledge...lol Since I'm mainly a crawler guy...lol Gonna' try and find all your slash vids. Or do you have a playlist for it?
+BushmanofYukon Good deal! Here's a link to the playlist: ruclips.net/video/JT_--A5Vl_o/видео.html You can also check the channel for the Slash "Project Sleeper" series
Looking at these as a possible option for my Traxxas Stampede 4x4 vxl. I don't race, just bashing but can't stand the binding and lack of durability of the stock drives. You think these would hold up given that they are aluminum of do you advise the steel version ?
+mike zilla It will create havoc with your electronics/slipper in my opinion. Think of it....Your motor will be spinning heavier components on one side and lighter on the other.
If thats the case then why do alot of people who put the X-dutys on back run stock on front? Thats how i presently have mine, just havent taken it out and bashed it hardly since upgrades..ty for ur opinion..Ill prolly just get the x-dutys for front too.
How have these been working out for you? I've stapped a few rear stub axles now on just 2s, but hear mixed things about MIP. seriously impressed with out clean your rig is. mine looks like a mess compared to this.. hah
+Mike R There's nothing mixed about MIP. They make solid products. Now depending on your style of driving and power, I would steer clear of the aluminum versions and get the steel versions. Great overall performance especially over stock. Typically you see people griping about MIP when they take a Slash 4x4 (Plastic rig) and strap on a 2200kv 1/18th scale motor trying to re-create evil knievel and velcro in 6s lipo batteries and wonder why things fell apart,......lol
MIP X-duty for 4s+, but 3s- I prefer Tekno M6 to this design. I actually got rid of those poorly designed Traxxas alloy c-hubs, and carriers, and use the Tekno carrier with the RPM c-hub. The Traxxas alloy caster blocks for the Platinum/Ultimate rub on proline Renegade rims. The RPM's have a curve to them like they are supposed to have and do not rub. I also am not really a fan of the stock a-arms having broken them myself, I find RPM is much more bash worthy, and they fit like a glove in their hubs.
the front axles use a larger inner bearing and 2s will most definitely break the factory axles I broke one front and read with in 2 days out of box on my platinum
Do you think these will work with A stampede 4x4 which has a MMP 2400kv Sct system installed....I keep busting the front as I have Mip HD in the rear...Should I go with these or the hardin steel ones.....that Slash looks Clean as hell by the way...lolls
What size hexes do these have on them for the wheels? Are they 12MM, and if they are, can they be upgraded to 14MM? I have a Revo 3.3, and I have 6 set's of tires, and wheels, and I don't want to throw them away. Thanks for the video.
+RakinBill The MIP 12mm hexes that come with the driveshafts are a bit unique.....I'm also not sure that these will fit a Revo..They're for a Slash 4x4/Rally/Stampede.
+The RCNetwork I know they are for the Slash, I was wondering if a 14MM or 17MM hex would fit on the axle so I could use the bigger tires and wheels from my Revo. :)
These were limited production aluminum driveshafts made for racing. They didn't do too well in Traxxas Slashes that people were bashing, as the aluminum can bend quite easy if the truck isn't maintained. The model number you referenced are MIP's X Duty shafts, which are better suited for the Traxxas vehicles...but they are HEAVY. meaning heavy to spin around...thus losing a bit of power...and if push comes to shove, they will not break, but something else will on your truck
I watched a video a few hrs ago he used the xo-1 axles on a slash 4x4 they only weight 1.9 ounces. But i do i like your mips a lot more lol plus the price has to be cheaper than xo1 parts lol
Hello I see you know a lot about rcs. I broke my cvds on a stampede vxl 2wd... I don't race I just bash and mess around what is the best most durable cvds you recommend?
on my slash I put those axles in but I also had rpm axles in it. but my 8 arms flex so much that I ended up breaking them almost right aways what a arms do you recommend?
+Kevin Wiebe Yeah, RPM isn't the best if you want stiff plastic. I use the stock A arms and the aluminum C's. The stock a arms are so much stiffer than the RPMs. Also, I would recommend the steel versions of the MIP driveshafts unless you are using them for a race specific truck on a well groomed track
I installed them on my traxxas stampede 4x4 vxl and i also have the trx alluminium caster blocks but there isn't enough room to steer. Do you have that too?
I was running these with a Tekin Pro4 4600kv/RX8 combo. So, I think it could handle a mod motor.......The steel version would be a bit heavier, but slightly more durable
The RCNetwork Thanks for the reply that's awesome, what do you think is more important, the lighter weight (rotating mass etc.) or the durability for an outdoor (rough/dusty/large jumps) track? or are the steel versions just for bashing? also did you think a 550 motor would fit in the slash 4x4 platinum!
A 550 will fit, but is really not needed. Check out my playlist for my Slash Platinum "project sleeper" LCG. Great truck and way over powered. I made my own electronics tray as well, which will allow any sized motor you want. I would probably put the steel version for an outdoor track. You have a bit more durability.
I mainly just bash, cuz there's no point in spending a fortune to make my slash competitive. It's cheaper to get a race kit. Anyway these are cheaper than the x-duties so should I get hear or the x-duty. I really don't want to spend that much. My main problem is just the out drive yoke plastics. Please help!
Oh and btw, this is the second time the plastic on the stick outdrives broke, and it happens when I land a jump at home. At home I just land on a flat surface, unlike the tracks landing ramps. I thought I'd include that info
+ULTiMATE TRAXXAS MAN I think the MIP steel versions are the way to go for most people. The Alum ones are great, light but can bend if not installed perfect
This is for race applications and yes, dirt will get in there. Proper maintenance is key and the grease does help to keep the majority out. MIP also has a steel version of these and worst case the HD solid steel spline driveshafts as well
+Devon Asher Nope, completely different. You'll need these: miponline.com/store/mip13255.html They're the steel version, it does not look like MIP makes an aluminum version for the 2wd
If you already have them, make sure you follow the instructions to the T. Note the shock positions. Also, I would check them after every run. YOu'll likely bend them sooner or later - also they are only intended for 2s
again the 1,s on the video are for 2 cell maximum ,not even 3 cells without snaping he should of started with that !!!!the stock cvd,s are 3 cell maximum /call mip with his part ##,mip will tell you!
@@TheRCNetwork if your a racer than you would know that but why would you watch a guy build a truck if you a racer as you would already know how to and know what to use ! That was kind of a dick thing to say to people who whatch your channel! I'm out !
:P people on the internet are sometimes just ..... strange xD theres only 1 reson why i dont have a slash 4x4 , after buying one I wouldnt have enough money for the upgrades to get it race ready , so i might stick to a TLR ten scte 2.0
I own both types and RACE ONLY the race duty are a WASTE DUTY if you have anything over 2s. Dont think that the race is going to make you faster. The XDUTY ARE MANDATORY! I REPEAT XDUTY ARE MANDATORY! I HAVE A 6S capable and the XDUTY are the way to go. RACERS could gain from the lighter rotating mass.... I had bought the aluminum ones first.snap. snap.snap over and over i bought $12 replacement axle...too many times. I now have a full set in my bin. Not for my trucks i now use 8th scale systems so i can run 3s back to back all day on grass no prob.
Chris O'Connor that’s why they’re called “race duty” - For Racing which is capped at 2s only. And technically they will make you faster, as they reduce the rotational weight by a bit.
I wish i would have never bought these. They tell you in the instructions to install the shock bushing but not why or what affect the bushing is supposed have. Well i must need to or 3 so the dog bone doesn't pinch in the out drive cup. The axle bent first day out. I bent it back. On the axle completely broke. I spent $45 so i didn't to replace my front axles. Less than 3 packs and a couple hard landings. These are not good enough for bashing in my opinion. I had the traxxas upgrade cvds on my last truck very easy to put on { didn't have to take my shocks apart}, full range of motion. Never broke.
Craig Poer I installed these in a race ready rig, which the title of the product captures. For Bash applications, the steel version should suffice, but like you said, there's limitations of the shock stroke due to the type of platform the Slash is. I think MIP did a great job of trying to incorporate a traditional CVD into the Slash platform, but the in the end, trying to fix the platform is all the aftermarket companies are trying to do......it's the platform
MIP is expensive, for a reason....it just works. Now, with that being said, these driveshafts may not be fore everyone though. Only race vehicles on groomed tracks within a certain power range
@@TheRCNetwork I've went through 4 sets of MIP shafts, threw the last set in the garbage. These shafts rust and they rust very badly, even if u drive through a tiny pot-hole with water. those shafts will turn into a rust bucket. Paying a premium price for shafts that need assembly and rust is a waste of money, over-rated crap. And what is up with all the Assembly?? Set screws, grub screws... fucking garbage. Cheers mate :)
I hope no one is attempting to find "stiction" in the dictionary. Poor vocabulary severely diminishes the credibility of one who is trying to teach something. I bet he uses the phrase "whole nuther" as well...
Brad Johnson well, genius: nounPHYSICS the friction which tends to prevent stationary surfaces from being set in motion. I used this term in the mountain biking industry for years. Maybe you should “google it” before you start running your keyboard. 🙃
Thank you for the response, i just thought it would let people know how important it is to install the shock bumpers and check the travel. The axles will pinch in the output cups and bend. The coolest thing about the axles is the 12mm hexes have a set screw. It helped me get most of the slop out of my front end without using washers.
hey bro, great video as usual, loving this Slash series, cant wait to install these on my Platinum. *just wanted to share something*
After reading a ton of forums, Jang from UltimateRC and some other guys recommended I try the Losi racing springs in my stock Platinum Shocks, they fit like they were tailor-made, allowed me to up my diff oil to 50w, and made an absolute enormous difference on track.
LOSB2959 Front Racing Spring Set: TEN SCTE
LOSB2963 Rear Racing Spring Set: TEN SCTE
No worries, my plans were to upgrade the known weaknesses. now, if Traxxas could come out with a kit version with these types of upgrades!
They are spec'd for the Stampede, but.......if you're running a 3s (minimum system) I would get the MIP HD versions. It might be a bit more weight, but in your case, would be more bash worthy. Thanks for the great comments on the Slash!
I jus got into the hobby an can't wait to pickup my slash after watching this video I no what driveshafts to get 👍🏻thanks Rich!
+Frank Santarcangelo These are great driveshafts for racing, but I would get the steel versions if you plan to do anything besides racing
Thanks RCR. I have checked out the STRC LCG. It may be in the future, but until then I will run the stock chassis as a baseline
Thanks Hawk! You can't beat a quality company these days!
Cool, they're a greta upgrade to the stock and more "race" inspried over the MIP HD's. I believe MIP also reeased a steel version of these recently as well. The reason for the aluminum is less rotational weight an quicker launch speeds
Rich, the stub axles are different as well, not just the out drives. I've had these since they came out and I've never lost a pin or a set screw. However I have broken a few pins causing the axels to deprecate. Just don't over tighten the set screw and you should be fine with a little locktite.
Rich thanks for the vids ive really been enjoying them ! I have had nuthing but problems with MIP shafts loosing there pins ive used blue and red locktite on them ,same problem ive called MIP and all theyve wanted to do was sell me more parts i ended up just trashing them and buying the traxxas shafts ,much better havent had a problem sence i hope you have better luck than me
I agree on the strange part! The SCTE 2.0 is a great rig. Tekno SCT410 is my fav right now
Cool deal. They have been great everytime I've worked with them
Great walk through. Is tough to beat a great American company. Look forward to seeing the performance.
I've never owned an RC8. I have currently a B44.2 and the part quality is pretty decent, although I go through front arms like crazy!
I know, huh? It used to bother me at first, but I do these vids for the people that appreciate them like you. Since I interact with each and every comment maker, sometimes people get rude or obnoxious. So i have gathered a troll or two! It's all good though.
I agree they sent me a new set of hex's for my xduty cvd's great customer service better than anyone I've ever worked with
Yeah, I think that's what I meant...I kept saying "out drives" Thanks for the tip on not over tightening.
Absolutely. Alum would be great for some racing, but Id bend em quick "I think" Id love to hear some reviews after they have been put through their paces.
I run the x duty's on my SCX10 and they are super solid with all that torque.
Those look badass! my next upgrade
The Traxxas Arms has a pretty wide range of holes. with the stop telescoping driveshafts, they will all work. With a fixed CVD like the MIP, you are limited to just the 3 most common holes. I don't know that the MIP CVDs with work with the Pro-trac system
I have seen plenty of "known design flaws" in my 35+ RC's that I've owned. I do give it to MIP for owning up to it immediatly and calling me!
Can you recommend anything that is as good quality, being these were discontinued 👎🏽
If you want the best parts; get the STRC lcg for slash 4x4. It will have people puzzling what vehicle even when rubber side up.
Wow, I guess I'm lucky. I live about 5 miles from Team Associated's office and about 30 miles from MIP!
I love MIP, I have the Xduty might end up picking up these race ones though
Were you running the newer Race Duty CVD's? They use a through pin on the outdirve from the diff and then a through pin with a flatened area for the set screw. MIP now includes their blue gel loctite, which has seemed to work. I used a commercial red loctite ion my X duty shafts for my scx10
Ok thanks I'll keep that in catch ya on your next video✌🏻
Thanks for this vid, I'm all over these too...
just got these for my stampede
They're great drives. Just make sure the suspension doesn't over extend them.
If I couldn't get the Tekno, the SCTE 2.0 would be my next choice!
Hey thanks Mojo! I was wondering which springs I would need for tuning. Having 2 SCTE's I have tons of springs, including the ones you mentioned. I also have the full set of MIP fronts as well.
I'm a extra heavy basher what kit should I get for my slash 4x4?
Go with the HD MIP Splined driveshafts.
Over 120 for the MIP full set.. You can get 4 full sets of the stock plastic ones... LOL, Id go stock kinda of a no brainer. Buddy had the MIP's and broke them in less than 2 weeks.
My Tekno is def my seriour race rig. But, we will see what the Slash can do!
i spent 130 on these, bent two and broke 1, and i know what bashing and racing is, i wasn't even hard on it and it happend. sucks that i wasted the money, didnt last a week. sucks, i was excited about them!
+FrankieBFilms two things will destroy these CVD's - 1. How they're installed. There's very specific installation instructions as far as shock loaction and how they fit into the hubs. 2. How the person is driving/powerplant of the vehicle. These were released shorty before I made this video. Since then, there's been a release of the steel version, which most people should buy. The aluminum, although very lightweight and pretty durable, are very easy to bend and break if not properly installed and used in the right environment
heard that bro! i already got some steal ones :) :)
There are steel race dutys out there now, right? Do the look exactly the sa,e as the aluminum ones? Also, are the ones on amazon "fake?" (As in, not made by mip) one more thing- will it work and work good to use trumpet valve oil to oil rc bearings for SCT racing? I play the trumpet, so I have LOADS of the stuff. And another thing- since I will be racing at an 8th scale off road track that allows the use of 3s lipos for SCT racing, will the steel mip race dutys in the sl4sh lcg hold up?
great video very helpful thank you
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Good stuff Rich :o) Just bought a Slash 4x4 LCG with on board audio :o) So Lookin' to gain the knowledge...lol Since I'm mainly a crawler guy...lol Gonna' try and find all your slash vids. Or do you have a playlist for it?
+BushmanofYukon Good deal! Here's a link to the playlist: ruclips.net/video/JT_--A5Vl_o/видео.html You can also check the channel for the Slash "Project Sleeper" series
Just bought these
They're great! Make sure and follow direction on the bottom shock mounts as the MIP's have limitations.
yeah, I'ts a mountain bike term, as well as any serious racers term on suspension that isn't smooth
Looking at these as a possible option for my Traxxas Stampede 4x4 vxl.
I don't race, just bashing but can't stand the binding and lack of durability of the stock drives.
You think these would hold up given that they are aluminum of do you advise the steel version ?
GGobblin If you're going to bash, I would pick up the steel version of these. It will add some strength to them.
what would u say about x-duty on rears and race duty on fronts of stampede 4x4 vxl?
+mike zilla It will create havoc with your electronics/slipper in my opinion. Think of it....Your motor will be spinning heavier components on one side and lighter on the other.
If thats the case then why do alot of people who put the X-dutys on back run stock on front? Thats how i presently have mine, just havent taken it out and bashed it hardly since upgrades..ty for ur opinion..Ill prolly just get the x-dutys for front too.
+The RCNetwork are you completely clueless?
How have these been working out for you? I've stapped a few rear stub axles now on just 2s, but hear mixed things about MIP.
seriously impressed with out clean your rig is. mine looks like a mess compared to this.. hah
+Mike R There's nothing mixed about MIP. They make solid products. Now depending on your style of driving and power, I would steer clear of the aluminum versions and get the steel versions. Great overall performance especially over stock. Typically you see people griping about MIP when they take a Slash 4x4 (Plastic rig) and strap on a 2200kv 1/18th scale motor trying to re-create evil knievel and velcro in 6s lipo batteries and wonder why things fell apart,......lol
MIP X-duty for 4s+, but 3s- I prefer Tekno M6 to this design.
I actually got rid of those poorly designed Traxxas alloy c-hubs, and carriers, and use the Tekno carrier with the RPM c-hub.
The Traxxas alloy caster blocks for the Platinum/Ultimate rub on proline Renegade rims. The RPM's have a curve to them like they are supposed to have and do not rub.
I also am not really a fan of the stock a-arms having broken them myself, I find RPM is much more bash worthy, and they fit like a glove in their hubs.
the front axles use a larger inner bearing and 2s will most definitely break the factory axles I broke one front and read with in 2 days out of box on my platinum
Just ordered because of this video. Will they fit my rpm arms? Thanks
Calvin Cardenas Thanks Calvin! I don't see why they won't fit the RPM's
Do you think these will work with A stampede 4x4 which has a MMP 2400kv Sct system installed....I keep busting the front as I have Mip HD in the rear...Should I go with these or the hardin steel ones.....that Slash looks Clean as hell by the way...lolls
What size hexes do these have on them for the wheels? Are they 12MM, and if they are, can they be upgraded to 14MM? I have a Revo 3.3, and I have 6 set's of tires, and wheels, and I don't want to throw them away.
Thanks for the video.
+RakinBill The MIP 12mm hexes that come with the driveshafts are a bit unique.....I'm also not sure that these will fit a Revo..They're for a Slash 4x4/Rally/Stampede.
+The RCNetwork I know they are for the Slash, I was wondering if a 14MM or 17MM hex would fit on the axle so I could use the bigger tires and wheels from my Revo. :)
I got these for mine, are you having issues with the rear diff cups not being even. Kinda have a wobble?
Not at all. MIP has a high standard of quality control. If you think it's a defect, give then a call or email. I'm sure they'll make it right
Could you tell me what the difference in the mail 18140
And 18150 vs this?
These were limited production aluminum driveshafts made for racing. They didn't do too well in Traxxas Slashes that people were bashing, as the aluminum can bend quite easy if the truck isn't maintained. The model number you referenced are MIP's X Duty shafts, which are better suited for the Traxxas vehicles...but they are HEAVY. meaning heavy to spin around...thus losing a bit of power...and if push comes to shove, they will not break, but something else will on your truck
I watched a video a few hrs ago he used the xo-1 axles on a slash 4x4 they only weight 1.9 ounces. But i do i like your mips a lot more lol plus the price has to be cheaper than xo1 parts lol
Ryan R They're probably close in price, but I will opt for MIP
O ok
Hello I see you know a lot about rcs. I broke my cvds on a stampede vxl 2wd... I don't race I just bash and mess around what is the best most durable cvds you recommend?
+IYbarraBrothers If you're really bashing these are the way to go: miponline.com/store/mip11104.html
on my slash I put those axles in but I also had rpm axles in it. but my 8 arms flex so much that I ended up breaking them almost right aways what a arms do you recommend?
+Kevin Wiebe Yeah, RPM isn't the best if you want stiff plastic. I use the stock A arms and the aluminum C's. The stock a arms are so much stiffer than the RPMs. Also, I would recommend the steel versions of the MIP driveshafts unless you are using them for a race specific truck on a well groomed track
I installed them on my traxxas stampede 4x4 vxl and i also have the trx alluminium caster blocks but there isn't enough room to steer. Do you have that too?
joes van de kamp Nope, I had no issues with the install on a 2012 Platinum LCG Slash 4x4.
Would these handle being run in a mod truck or would you go for the steel version of these? How durable are they over the long term?
I was running these with a Tekin Pro4 4600kv/RX8 combo. So, I think it could handle a mod motor.......The steel version would be a bit heavier, but slightly more durable
The RCNetwork Thanks for the reply that's awesome, what do you think is more important, the lighter weight (rotating mass etc.) or the durability for an outdoor (rough/dusty/large jumps) track? or are the steel versions just for bashing? also did you think a 550 motor would fit in the slash 4x4 platinum!
A 550 will fit, but is really not needed. Check out my playlist for my Slash Platinum "project sleeper" LCG. Great truck and way over powered. I made my own electronics tray as well, which will allow any sized motor you want. I would probably put the steel version for an outdoor track. You have a bit more durability.
Hey guys I have a motor burn out in 2 months in my slash , what's the next best thing as I do club racing
Get a hobbywing motor and esc
I´ ve looked on the tekno too ,but in austria i never found a seller and ordering form the USA it too expensive :(
You live in Cali? I live near San Bernardino. Met the owner of pro line once :p
Josh Lum Nice! I live in OC
Can you use them with the rustler???
I mainly just bash, cuz there's no point in spending a fortune to make my slash competitive. It's cheaper to get a race kit. Anyway these are cheaper than the x-duties so should I get hear or the x-duty. I really don't want to spend that much. My main problem is just the out drive yoke plastics. Please help!
Oh and btw, this is the second time the plastic on the stick outdrives broke, and it happens when I land a jump at home. At home I just land on a flat surface, unlike the tracks landing ramps. I thought I'd include that info
trust me bashing costs more. I have spent 600$ in repairs.
Want to get the mip race duty will they hold up on slash ultimate 4x4 with 3s
+Justen Morton I would get the steel versions of these
Will these work for an rpm gearbox protrac suspension setup on a slash 2wd
What do you think is better the traxxas cvds or the mips
+ULTiMATE TRAXXAS MAN I think the MIP steel versions are the way to go for most people. The Alum ones are great, light but can bend if not installed perfect
+The RCNetwork thanks because I need to upgrade them
Tekno M6
MIPs previous drive shafts did not fit with Protrac Kit.
what happens when dirt gets into the grease end of it? Or is it sealed?
This is for race applications and yes, dirt will get in there. Proper maintenance is key and the grease does help to keep the majority out. MIP also has a steel version of these and worst case the HD solid steel spline driveshafts as well
The RCNetwork
what scale is this?..i want to convert my 1/8 and install this kind of CVD on a buggy..
This is designed for the Slash 4x4.....I would n't install an aluminum driveshaft in an 1/8th - it will bend pretty easy
thanks for quick reply ..i was not able to come back and look.
keep up the good tips..!
Will these work on the nitro stampede?
I would probably get the steel version for Nitro
what's the best driveshaft for a slash 2wd
Take a look at these: amzn.to/2qnp7iD
Will the rear ones work on my slash 2wd?
+Devon Asher Nope, completely different. You'll need these: miponline.com/store/mip13255.html They're the steel version, it does not look like MIP makes an aluminum version for the 2wd
i subscribed to you bkuz if you can use the word use stiction and get away with it your a real person ...keep it real!!
Appreciate the sub! Thanks!
sorry i should of completed my comment because you are very informative and very helpfull also... thank you
Yeah, $60 for the front and $60 for the rear
.... how did you get dislikes on that video ????
I bought race duty for bashing 😭😭😭.
Means it's gonna break if I go bashing? 😢😢. What should I do, can't return the product. Lol
If you already have them, make sure you follow the instructions to the T. Note the shock positions. Also, I would check them after every run. YOu'll likely bend them sooner or later - also they are only intended for 2s
Can't use all the A arm holes? Odd... If someone is buying these then they're probably buying the PL Pro trac kit. I wonder how they fit up with that.
these were $60 per set correct?
No, a guy named Eric
the day after my bday :D
Would this fit a slash 2wd?
I don't believe so. MIP should have steel versions for the 2wd
+Ryan Mice miponline.com/store/mip13255.html
again the 1,s on the video are for 2 cell maximum ,not even 3 cells without snaping he should of started with that !!!!the stock cvd,s are 3 cell maximum /call mip with his part ##,mip will tell you!
Tony DAnnibale and the name implies, Tony - "race duty". Racing is limited to 2s.....the title should have given you a clue
@@TheRCNetwork if your a racer than you would know that but why would you watch a guy build a truck if you a racer as you would already know how to and know what to use ! That was kind of a dick thing to say to people who whatch your channel! I'm out !
:P people on the internet are sometimes just ..... strange xD
theres only 1 reson why i dont have a slash 4x4 , after buying one I wouldnt have enough money for the upgrades to get it race ready , so i might stick to a TLR ten scte 2.0
seems like great minds think alike :P
this cvd are only 2 cell max . x duty,s are what i need with a mm2 6 cell slash!!!
Once again, these are for race vehicles, which are 2s limited
not too with the shock limiter goes
Tekno FTW...
I own both types and RACE ONLY the race duty are a WASTE DUTY if you have anything over 2s.
Dont think that the race is going to make you faster. The XDUTY ARE MANDATORY!
I REPEAT XDUTY ARE MANDATORY! I HAVE A 6S capable and the XDUTY are the way to go.
RACERS could gain from the lighter rotating mass....
I had bought the aluminum ones first.snap. snap.snap over and over i bought $12 replacement axle...too many times.
I now have a full set in my bin. Not for my trucks i now use 8th scale systems so i can run 3s back to back all day on grass no prob.
Chris O'Connor that’s why they’re called “race duty” - For Racing which is capped at 2s only. And technically they will make you faster, as they reduce the rotational weight by a bit.
You can use those little containers for dabbs and wax as well. Smoke em if you got em.
I wish i would have never bought these. They tell you in the instructions to install the shock bushing but not why or what affect the bushing is supposed have. Well i must need to or 3 so the dog bone doesn't pinch in the out drive cup. The axle bent first day out. I bent it back. On the axle completely broke. I spent $45 so i didn't to replace my front axles. Less than 3 packs and a couple hard landings. These are not good enough for bashing in my opinion. I had the traxxas upgrade cvds on my last truck very easy to put on { didn't have to take my shocks apart}, full range of motion. Never broke.
Craig Poer I installed these in a race ready rig, which the title of the product captures. For Bash applications, the steel version should suffice, but like you said, there's limitations of the shock stroke due to the type of platform the Slash is. I think MIP did a great job of trying to incorporate a traditional CVD into the Slash platform, but the in the end, trying to fix the platform is all the aftermarket companies are trying to do......it's the platform
These things are..complete the sentence by DRIVING, and hearing, impressions, etc. Handling a package and installing them really says nothing
just snapped my front bone today :(
+salty avocado Yikes!
+salty avocado get in touch with support@miponline.com and send some images along with your address. From there they will get you taken care of.
not judging but this is really not a slash anymore.
MIP is so overpriced and way to over rated. garbage. Great video though brother!
MIP is expensive, for a reason....it just works. Now, with that being said, these driveshafts may not be fore everyone though. Only race vehicles on groomed tracks within a certain power range
@@TheRCNetwork I've went through 4 sets of MIP shafts, threw the last set in the garbage. These shafts rust and they rust very badly, even if u drive through a tiny pot-hole with water. those shafts will turn into a rust bucket. Paying a premium price for shafts that need assembly and rust is a waste of money, over-rated crap. And what is up with all the Assembly?? Set screws, grub screws... fucking garbage. Cheers mate :)
I hope no one is attempting to find "stiction" in the dictionary. Poor vocabulary severely diminishes the credibility of one who is trying to teach something. I bet he uses the phrase "whole nuther" as well...
Brad Johnson well, genius: nounPHYSICS
the friction which tends to prevent stationary surfaces from being set in motion.
I used this term in the mountain biking industry for years. Maybe you should “google it” before you start running your keyboard. 🙃