You guys should do a light weight crank and flywheel. Forged pistons and Crower H-beams. Bore .020 over and have the head and deck milled to match. Bigger cam, make sure you shorten the valves so you don't destroy anything and have the heads ported. The ported heads you can do yourself. but you would have to buy the light weight crank and flywheel the .020 over bore could be done at the machine shop as well as the head/deck milling. The cams and valves would have to be bought and you could change those out on your own. You could have one hell of a sleeper with just a couple grand in the truck. IF you wanted to.
Quick tip. To remove Pistons, loosen both the connecting rod nuts until they are about even with the end of the bolt. Then tap the top of the nut with a hammer. Boom. Pistons out.
Great videos on here racers, you would have needed a dohc aluminum front timing cover anyway, so the old cracked front cover is of no concern to begin with, get a set of brass freeze plugs installed by the machine shop while you have it there, also clean the rough cast on the oil ports on the front of the block, delete the balance shafts, order a dohc timing belt, pulleys, tensioner for a 6 bolt dsm.
You guys need to find a service manual or torque specs for the rebuild. Going in blind is fine for external parts. Internals are VERY picky. And be ready for the machine shop to hone those cylinders with the gouges you put in them trying to pull the crank out with the pistons attached. If only you had looked up basic engine overhaul procedures before attempting this. Be smart about it next time and on assembly. You guys could be so much better if you took time to prepare for your jobs. I suck at remembering names, so I'll try to give a nickname you can understand. :p I don't know "Cuban guy", maybe I haven't seen enough of your recent vids? "Camera guy", you've been doing this so long and still haven't got a clue. Read up on the net about car repair or talk with "glasses guy", he seems to know the most in your group but could also be served well learning more. Take care and keep going at it, you can succeed if you do.
The cylinder walls are going to need to be honed anyways just due to it being a high mileage motor. The cylinder walls probably aren't even gouged anyways they didn't do anything extreme and the pistons are already in tight tolerances with the cylinders themselves anyways. Those things have spun up and down millions of times in those same spots. Pistons don't slap the walls when doing what they did. $100 says they didn't do anything. If anything I would be worried about the crank with the bearings. That stuff always needed machined back to factory spec whenever working on a higher mileage motor. Sure you can get by without doing it, but is it worth it if you'll have to open it back up down the line?
It does seem pointless to fully rebuild an engine aside from the crank. All those new parts needing high pressure oil to fit through close bearing tolerances riding on a beat out old crank that likely has grooves in it. Sure you could get it machined, but why bother when a new one is probably less. I doubt they did any serious damage to the cylinders, but they were lifting the block with engine stand attached by binding the piston rings against the cylinder walls. I've had some well cared for engines open before with 300k+ miles on them that still had a slightly visible factory hone. A light deglazing would be enough for one like that, but if the same engine were treated like they did on the video, it would definitely need to be honed. The way they talked about the truck it seems highly unlikely that scenario applies, but it's always good to minimize damage when possible.
Liked the short video, your others on the mighty max seem a bit long but still enjoy them. Tried looking for a lightweight crank online and couldn't find dick without looking for a similar one that's used in another car. So there goes that suggestion lol
Bullshit^ the only reason they crank walk is because of the thrust washer it self.. Not the crank shaft being tougher. It's just a 100mm crank. It's the same material. Again it's the thrust washer that cause the crank walk. On early dsm.
+Kyle “Crakulator” Donahue same rods. As early 7bolts dsm. If you want stronger. Evo 8/9 stock rods is a great upgrade. Piston are the same as 63. Just 86.5mm bore Manages same amount of power. Crank is the same. Just that the stroke is now100mm you can put a 64 crank in a a early 7bolt 63 and it'll crank walk. Why? Trust washers.
I am pretty sure that they don't need a 4g63 because they have a 4g64. They will probably slap stronger pistons and rods, a DOHC head on it and an ebay turbo kit.
The 4G63 is a different engine from the 4G64. They both belong to the sirius engine family, but the 4G63 is a 2 liter and the 4G64 is a 2.4 liter. Both the 4G63 and the 4G64 were available in SOHC and DOHC and I believe they have interchangeable heads, water pumps and all the auxillaries like power steering pumps and ac compressors. Also the 4G63 can accept a 4G64 crankshaft and with a few other modifications the 4G63 can be stroked to 2.2 liters.
+Alan Moore the 2.4 mighty max 4g64 engine is a wide block and the 4g63 2.0 is a narrow block, tranny from the wide block will not bolt up to the narrow block
is the f-bomb really necessary for the video. it just makes you sound like you don't know what you are talking about so you just insert profanity..... not a personal attack, just my opinion. I really dig the channel
You guys really need some kitty litter. Have fun with the build!
You guys should do a light weight crank and flywheel. Forged pistons and Crower H-beams. Bore .020 over and have the head and deck milled to match. Bigger cam, make sure you shorten the valves so you don't destroy anything and have the heads ported. The ported heads you can do yourself. but you would have to buy the light weight crank and flywheel the .020 over bore could be done at the machine shop as well as the head/deck milling. The cams and valves would have to be bought and you could change those out on your own. You could have one hell of a sleeper with just a couple grand in the truck. IF you wanted to.
just from watching the sonata videos I know this is going to be a sick build
Quick tip. To remove Pistons, loosen both the connecting rod nuts until they are about even with the end of the bolt. Then tap the top of the nut with a hammer. Boom. Pistons out.
Great videos on here racers, you would have needed a dohc aluminum front timing cover anyway, so the old cracked front cover is of no concern to begin with, get a set of brass freeze plugs installed by the machine shop while you have it there, also clean the rough cast on the oil ports on the front of the block, delete the balance shafts, order a dohc timing belt, pulleys, tensioner for a 6 bolt dsm.
Gonna need new curtains ... for the window ... in the block ...
No more videos about this truck? What happened?
Well.. it's coming apart nicely we'll see if it comes together nicely
You guys need to find a service manual or torque specs for the rebuild. Going in blind is fine for external parts. Internals are VERY picky.
And be ready for the machine shop to hone those cylinders with the gouges you put in them trying to pull the crank out with the pistons attached. If only you had looked up basic engine overhaul procedures before attempting this. Be smart about it next time and on assembly.
You guys could be so much better if you took time to prepare for your jobs. I suck at remembering names, so I'll try to give a nickname you can understand. :p I don't know "Cuban guy", maybe I haven't seen enough of your recent vids? "Camera guy", you've been doing this so long and still haven't got a clue. Read up on the net about car repair or talk with "glasses guy", he seems to know the most in your group but could also be served well learning more. Take care and keep going at it, you can succeed if you do.
The cylinder walls are going to need to be honed anyways just due to it being a high mileage motor. The cylinder walls probably aren't even gouged anyways they didn't do anything extreme and the pistons are already in tight tolerances with the cylinders themselves anyways. Those things have spun up and down millions of times in those same spots. Pistons don't slap the walls when doing what they did. $100 says they didn't do anything. If anything I would be worried about the crank with the bearings. That stuff always needed machined back to factory spec whenever working on a higher mileage motor. Sure you can get by without doing it, but is it worth it if you'll have to open it back up down the line?
It does seem pointless to fully rebuild an engine aside from the crank. All those new parts needing high pressure oil to fit through close bearing tolerances riding on a beat out old crank that likely has grooves in it. Sure you could get it machined, but why bother when a new one is probably less.
I doubt they did any serious damage to the cylinders, but they were lifting the block with engine stand attached by binding the piston rings against the cylinder walls. I've had some well cared for engines open before with 300k+ miles on them that still had a slightly visible factory hone. A light deglazing would be enough for one like that, but if the same engine were treated like they did on the video, it would definitely need to be honed. The way they talked about the truck it seems highly unlikely that scenario applies, but it's always good to minimize damage when possible.
Just throw those balance shafts on the floor.............
Is there anymore mighty max videos?
pulling the pistons from the bottom of the block lol m8
Liked the short video, your others on the mighty max seem a bit long but still enjoy them.
Tried looking for a lightweight crank online and couldn't find dick without looking for a similar one that's used in another car. So there goes that suggestion lol
is the 4g64 crank tougher than 4g63 as its know that 63 cranks have walked away many times :D
Yes 4g64 blocks have stronger internals that the 4g63. It's also a lot heavier because of it.
Bullshit^ the only reason they crank walk is because of the thrust washer it self.. Not the crank shaft being tougher. It's just a 100mm crank. It's the same material. Again it's the thrust washer that cause the crank walk. On early dsm.
64 does not have stronger internals.... Swear everyone on the net has their degree in bullshittery
so im guessing you put a 64 and 63 internals together and measured them.
+Kyle “Crakulator” Donahue same rods. As early 7bolts dsm. If you want stronger. Evo 8/9 stock rods is a great upgrade. Piston are the same as 63. Just 86.5mm bore Manages same amount of power. Crank is the same. Just that the stroke is now100mm you can put a 64 crank in a a early 7bolt 63 and it'll crank walk. Why? Trust washers.
What happened to the truck
Are u boring anything, or just normal
Rebuild? I been fallowing you since the first day of the senata. Let me know
What happened to the truck after this?
This channel is a funny meme
lit
Throw a 4g63 in there
I am pretty sure that they don't need a 4g63 because they have a 4g64. They will probably slap stronger pistons and rods, a DOHC head on it and an ebay turbo kit.
That is a 4g63 with a SOHC on it, they are doing a DOHC swap. Which practically turns it into a 4G63
The 4G63 is a different engine from the 4G64. They both belong to the sirius engine family, but the 4G63 is a 2 liter and the 4G64 is a 2.4 liter. Both the 4G63 and the 4G64 were available in SOHC and DOHC and I believe they have interchangeable heads, water pumps and all the auxillaries like power steering pumps and ac compressors. Also the 4G63 can accept a 4G64 crankshaft and with a few other modifications the 4G63 can be stroked to 2.2 liters.
Which to bump from a 2.0 to a 2.4 takes very little modification to the engine block.
+Alan Moore the 2.4 mighty max 4g64 engine is a wide block and the 4g63 2.0 is a narrow block, tranny from the wide block will not bolt up to the narrow block
what happened to the wrx
drip pan..? not even a bucket..?
When are you guys going to find Ali Express? you'll live buying the cheap Chinese stuff direct from the source.
don't go haggard style..
Really guys next time try to do a longer video....
And get a service manual for this...do it right
is the f-bomb really necessary for the video. it just makes you sound like you don't know what you are talking about so you just insert profanity..... not a personal attack, just my opinion. I really dig the channel
makes them sound like haggard garage (cough cough GAY)